BASIC WEAVING
Aditi Jain Textile Design, PGDPD 2014 National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad
Documentation by Aditi Jain Textile Design PGDPD 2014 aditi_j@nid.edu +91 97126 06705 National Institute of Design Paldi, Ahmedabad
As part of the Textile Design program at the National Institute of Design, we had an extensive 5 week module on the basics of weaving. Through this course I understood the principles and constructions and weave design. I discovered the interrelation of materials, structures and form. Understanding colour interaction was especially interesting how colours behave when interlaced in various types weaves was a new learning for me. I also learnt how to translate woven design to a technical plan in the form of graphs and specification sheets. For this project I worked on 4,8 and 12 shafts. I also experimented with a warp rhythm patterns and block drafting. After a visit to Kutch, I was interested in taking the Rabari embroidery which is unique to the Rabari community as my inspiration. In this embroidery patterns are outlined in chain stitch, then decorated with mirrors and colours. Most Rabari women traditionally were in black and red with colourful embroidery while men wear white. I took elements from these and represented them through weaving.
Mood Board
The first warp was an exploration of structures using 4 shafts of the loom. I used various types of yarns and metal as weft and explored different combination of structures. Warp : Off White Cotton, 2/20s
Weft : Cotton 2/20s I played with plain and twill weave to create a wavy structure
Weft : Cotton 2/20s, Various metal wires
Weft : Cotton 2/20s, Rayon, Mirror sequins
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Weft : Cotton 2/20s
My next work was a maroon warp. Maroon was a prominent colour that ran through my mood board. This time I worked on 8 shafts and experimented with various other structures. Warp : Maroon dyed cotton, 2/20s
Weft : Cotton 2/20s, Cotton cord
Weft : Cotton 2/20s, Silver zari
Weft : Cotton 2/20s I tried to reflect the traditional bandhini odhni with the black ghagra which most Rabari women adorn
Weft : Cotton 2/20s
The last one was especially exciting where I block drafted the warp in a colour rhythm. I took the above traditonal cloth piece as my example and translated it in colours and structures. I used 12 shafts which allowed me to explore many more structures. Warp : Polyester, approx. 2/30s
Weft : Polyester, approx. 2/30s
Weft : Polyester, approx. 2/30s
Weft : Cotton 2/20s