WINE + SPIRITS
ICONIC ORNELLAIA
A SYNTHESIS OF WINE AND ART | BY FRAN ENDICOTT MILLER
O
rnellaia. The mere mention of the iconic Italian wine sends oenophile hearts aflutter. Since its first vintage in 1985, the collectible cuvée of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and petit verdot has garnered award-winning recognition the world over. The Bolgheri estate is consistently ranked as one of the world’s best by Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator, James Suckling, Antonio Galloni, Bruce Sanderson, and the Italian Wine Guides Gambero Rosso, Espresso, and Veronelli. Established in 1981 in a region along the Tuscan coast not traditionally known for grape cultivation, the Ornellaia estate was part of the original Super Tuscan revolution. In 2001, the 1998 Ornellaia was declared ‘Wine of the Year’ by Wine Spectator. In 2011 the German publication Der Feinschmecker awarded Ornellaia its most sought-after award, the ‘Weinlegende.’
Each distinct vintage contains varied percentages of each Bordeaux varietal. Yet, every vintage speaks of the Ornellaia terroir as a single, unified voice, and estate director Axel Heinz names each vintage in recognition of its character. For instance, 2018 was named La Grazia in tribute to the blend’s sense of proportion and symmetry. 2019 was dubbed Il Vigore for the vintage’s healthy growth of the vines, and 2020 has been titled La Proporzione (or ‘proportion’) for the vintage’s ideal transmission of the essence of each grape variety in creating a perfect, proportional relationship. The 2020 vintage was marked by contrast. Cold and rain alternated with extended hot and dry periods. After an almost perfect summer, the defining moment came with the late September drop in temperatures, which produced a wine of finesse and aromatic richness. “Ornellaia 2020 is vibrant and well-structured,” said
Ornellaia winemaker Olga Fusari. “It arcs through the palate with dense yet elegant tannins, leading into a persistent finish and lingering freshness.” Ornellaia is equally well known by wine collectors for its unique Vendemmia d’Artista program, in which the distinctive character of every vintage is celebrated artistically. Each year, starting with the release of Ornellaia 2006 in May 2009, a contemporary artist crafts a site-specific artwork and a set of limited-edition labels inspired by the vintage name. For 2020 American artist Joseph Kosuth was chosen to interpret La Proporzione. “This year,” said Heinz, “nature and man have combined to form a perfect relationship between vine and thought in the just proportions of elegance, power, and complexity.” Korsuth, one of conceptual art’s great practitioners and thinkers, was chosen to interpret this relationship. In-
109 | UPSCALE LIVING MAGAZINE | APRIL 2023
