Issue 12 March / April 2016
Vestige Photography Chrissy Keepence Laila Shalimar Dolly Denko Nicole Melrose Stephanie Zaicew Teer Wayde Bettie Butcher Jackie Wallace Pearl Davies Pin Up! The Movie ADORE PIN UP 1
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On the cover Editor & designer
Editor’s letter Aaaaand we’re back! I took a PHOTO BY VESTIGE PHOTOGRAPHY AT GREAZEFEST 2013, WITH MUAH BY LINDY SUE
little break over the summer
Brianna Blackhart
to travel, and my trip took
Subeditor
me to Indonesia, Thailand,
Alyssa Hanley
as well as through a lot of
Vietnam and Singapore,
Featured writers
activities I didn’t think were
Emily Russ, Laila Shalimar,
and abseiling down raging
Teer Wayde & Pearl Davies
waterfalls. I’ve slipped out
Featured interviews
(I’m sorry) and back into my
‘me’, like trekking a mountain
of the zip-off cargo pants vintage, and here we are with
Addie Hamilton, Chrissy
issue 12 – my 2nd anniversary
Keepence, Dolly Denko of
issue. I’m thankful to have some really moving pieces in this issue including
Doctrin, Stephanie Zaicew
Chrissy’s heart-wrenching experiences with cancer, and Laila’s struggle
& Susana Andrea
with racism, body shame and skin bleaching. Both of these women are inspirational in different ways, and made me teary as I was putting together
Get in touch
their pieces, and I hope you can find a connection to their stories too. It was also really special for me to work with Susana from Vestige more closely
www.adorepinup.com
for this issue, with the cover feature she shot. I met and stayed with Susana
contact@adorepinup.com
and Lindy Sue (who also fittingly did the hair and makeup on the cover
facebook.com/adorepinup
feature) when they visited Greazefest from California in 2013, and I was so
@adorepinup
enthralled by them and their talent. It was really a major point in my ‘pin up
A D D IE HA MILTO N photography Vestige Photography muah Lindy Sue
journey’ of sorts, where I was like, ‘okay, this is something I really want to be part of’, and I started thinking about how I could get more involved. Next thing you know, we’re here!
© 2016 Adore Pin Up and the contributors. All rights reserved. Strictly no reproduction without prior permission by the editor. Proudly produced and printed in Australia.
– Brianna Blackhart
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30 Contents 6 ‘JOYRIDE’ FT. JACKIE WALLACE 10 ‘MODERN DAY WONDER WOMAN’: AN INTERVIEW WITH CHRISSY KEEPENCE 18 ‘DOLLY DENKO IS DOCTRIN’ 22 ‘SOMMAR FLICK I HAGEN: SUMMER GIRL IN THE FIELD’ FT. NICOLE MELROSE 28 AN INTERVIEW WITH INTERNATIONAL STYLIST
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STEPHANIE ZAICEW 30 COVER FEATURE: ‘AT HOME WITH ADDIE HAMILTON’
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40 ‘ALL THAT GLITTERS’ FT. BETTIE BUTCHER 44 ‘LAILA SHALIMAR – THE DESI LUCILLE BALL’ 48 ‘KITTENS AND KULTURE’: AN INTERVIEW WITH SUSANA ANDREA 52 ‘STEP BACK SEDUCTION’ FT. SARAH WOOLLEY 56 ‘DOWNTOWN MOTO DAME’ BY TEER WAYDE 58 ‘AMERICANA FUN IN THE FLORIDA SUN’ BY PEARL DAVIES 62 KITTEN LE BOW
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64 ‘PIN UP THE MOVIE’ BY URLA HILL 68 MISS V 70 HOLLY HARLOTT ADORE PIN UP 5
JACKIE WALLACE photography Fabian ‘Chopit’ Fioto hair Tara Alexander makeup Susana Celaya
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MODERN DAY WONDER WOMAN AN INTERVIEW WITH CHRISSY KEEPENCE OF THE LINDY CHARM SCHOOL FOR GIRLS photography Brooke Orchard interview by Emily Russ ADORE PIN UP 11
W
hile superheroes may not exist, Wonder Women certainly do. Though she wouldn’t admit it, Chrissy Keepence is one such woman. After leaving school and becoming a mother at 17, Chrissy went on to build a vintage styling empire with the Lindy Charm School for Girls, and to inspire confidence in women around the country. Unfortunately the achievements Chrissy accomplished in this journey were not made without her fair share of struggles. Cancer has not only meant her saying goodbye to her father, mother and her younger sister, but Chrissy herself is a cancer warrior. A rare gene passed down through her family meant that Chrissy had an incredibly high chance of being diagnosed with either breast or ovarian cancer. Determined to live for her family and friends, Chrissy bravely underwent an elective preventative double mastectomy and a radical medical hysterectomy. Chrissy said of the covering image of this feature, “I had the flamingo pic done in honour of my own breasts missing. My flamingos covering my new flamingos.” Despite her courageous decision, Chrissy was unfortunately diagnosed with cancer early last year. The true fighter that she is, she underwent chemotherapy and is now cancer free, using her experiences to raise awareness for those battling the terrible disease. Organising fundraising events and filming vintage hairstyling how-tos for women coming out of chemotherapy, Chrissy is passionate about using vintage glamour to empower others. I was lucky enough to catch up with the modern day Wonder Woman and ask her a few questions. ADORE PIN UP 12
EMILY: Would you mind telling our
to my personal style was set. I finally felt
readers a little bit about yourself?
in my right skin, as it were.
CHRISSY: I am the headmistress and
EMILY: What does ‘vintage’ mean
owner of The Lindy Charm School for
to you?
Girls, as well as a wife, a mother, a swing dance teacher, a vintage stylist and a Charm School Mistress who is passionate about the empowerment of women of all ages, shapes and sizes. Oh, and yes, I am a cancer survivor. I’m a lover of old world glamour and charm. I soak up the history I have learned, and enjoy passing it on to the next
CHRISSY: To me, it’s a lifestyle – an appreciation of what I consider the classics from the past, be it fashion, style, music, art or manner. I’m not so romantic as to believe life was all peachy then. In fact, I am lucky to be in a position to take the bits of the past that I find fabulous and leave the hardships
generation of vintage fashionistas.
and some traditions in the past. Though I
Not having finished Year 12 and
of what our foremothers endured for our
becoming a mother at the age of 17,
rite of passage now. Yes, we are lucky.
do have a healthy respect for the history
I did not undertake any studies to speak of other than life’s lessons of the
EMILY: Many people know you
street, which today, upon reflection,
through the Lindy Charm School
have actually stood me in good stead. I
for Girls. For those who don’t know
learned early the importance of charm,
about the School, can you please
good manners, good posture and a fake-
tell our readers more about it?
it-till-you-make-it attitude. All of what I teach through the Lindy Charm School for Girls is self-taught through listening to our foremothers’ stories of their lives and hardships, and also through watching old movies, documentaries and reading old women’s magazines and books. After a lot of trial and error I arrived at the best and most simple way of passing on the best of the past and melting it into the best of today to offer simple, frugal, important messages. EMILY: When did you first fall in love
CHRISSY: As an aficionado of early 20th century style, my long-time love-affair with all things vintage began with swing dancing. As a swing dance teacher, I studied and skillfully recreated the era’s look purely, initially, for my own pleasure. But before long, my students were begging me to teach them my styling secrets. Word of these mini styling workshops spread and before long the Lindy Charm School for Girls was born!
with vintage?
Since its inception more than 15
CHRISSY: Growing up with a mother who
gained a loyal and avid following of
always made everything by hand out of
vintage fashionistas, as well as those
necessity helped shape my individuality
who are new to the style. It has built a
with regards to fashion and style.
strong reputation for transformative,
We never bought things from shops;
fun workshops for women of all ages,
consequently my style became unique
shapes and technical ability. Our mission
unto me. Around 20 years ago I started
is to empower you – regardless of shape
to become much more influenced by
or size – to bring out your inner beauty
the fashions of the 30s, 40s and 50s
and give you the confidence to be
as it seemed to perfectly reflect my
yourself. The workshops are about more
personality and my innate love for
than just lipstick and powder – they
music, dance and the lifestyle of a
provide a unique, fun and supportive
bygone era. My father’s love of rock and
setting where our students’ self-esteem
roll music became the soundtrack to my
soars and they feel validated. I want
life, and upon the meeting of my soul
to help every woman in the world feel
mate and now husband, who also shares
confident and individually glamorous,
this passion, my life course with regards
one pin curl at a time!
years ago, the Lindy Charm School has
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EMILY: Where does the name ‘Lindy
such a great analogy for a pair of
passionate about helping these
Charm’ come from?
dancers. Anyway, it was love at first
young ladies navigate their way into
sight. We have been together now
womanhood by passing on to them
for 20 years, and once I shared my
many of the invaluable lessons our
love of swing dance with him he too
foremothers left us. Today’s materialistic
was hooked. My Mum was so happy
society encourages a sheep mentality,
as I moved back down from Darwin
and I believe all women should have
permanently and brought her grandson
the opportunity to be individual in their
back home. We make a great team and
style choices. Fashion today is fickle,
think we are pretty good teachers too.
and more often than not, unflattering
Well, our students tell us so! Swing On
for the many varied shapes and sizes
In dance classes are every week around
we all have. Finding individual styles
SE QLD and Northern NSW.
and holding themselves with confidence
CHRISSY: As a swing dance teacher for Swing On In, the dance I teach is The Lindy Hop. The name originates from 1927 when Charles Lindbergh crossed the Atlantic and the papers screamed headlines like “Lindy Hops the Atlantic!” When one of the greatest Charleston dancers of Harlem, a man named “Shorty” George Snowden, was in a dance marathon, he continued to bust out his energetic style of partnered
and poise is only going to benefit young
Charleston and breakaway. A reporter
EMILY: Back to the Lindy Charm
called out to him, “What are you doing
School – one thing I personally
with your feet?” “Why, it’s the Lindy!”
really love about it is how it’s all
he said. Anyway, this is the dance I have
about empowerment through vintage
EMILY: What do you love most about
lived and breathed and taught with my
glamour, which is something that
your job as headmistress of the Lindy
husband for the better part of 19 years,
Adore Pin Up is all about too. How
Charm School for Girls?
and so when The Lindy Charm School
important is this to you?
For Girls evolved from our dance school,
women at the start of their journey and into their independent future.
CHRISSY: I get to wake up and do what I CHRISSY: The Lindy Charm School
love every day. I get to make a difference
serves to awaken and empower women,
– even if only on a small scale – and I
to bring out their inner beauty and
get to play dress ups every day! Most
remember the roots.
encourages them to express it fully. We
importantly, I get to witness a little bit
believe that every girl deserves to look
of magic every time that smile broadens
EMILY: Can you tell us what it’s like being a swing dance teacher? What drew you to swing dancing?
and feel glamorous, regardless of age,
across a woman’s face, and that snap
shape or dress size. Beauty is within
of realisation becomes apparent and
us, but these workshops offer some
she believes she really is beautiful! It’s
women a way to find it that is fun and
always there, but sometimes life buries
interesting, and by gathering together
it beneath, and I am blessed to be able
with like-minded women who are all
to peel back the layers and let her shine
there for the same reason, and have
again. I love that feeling.
it effectively grew from one passion into another, and I took a little piece of the Lindy with me so as to always
CHRISSY: Growing up to the sounds of my Dad’s favourite rock and roll tunes, my brothers and sisters and I were hooked on nostalgia from a young age. My favourite memories were on a weekend when I sat with my Dad and watched old black and white movies and my love of 40s and 50s fashions started to flame. Fast forward from there, I met a young dancer in Darwin in the early 90s who introduced me to some VHS footage of the Lindy Hop and I was so gone! I didn’t look back. From that moment on, I had an insatiable craving to learn this dance, and I felt with the music, the dance, the fashion, that my life was set! I just needed to meet that perfect fella to complete the picture. At this time, my Mum first got breast cancer so I went to Queensland to be with her, and as
an interest in the glamorous styles of the past. It’s the special moments of
EMILY: Moving into more serious
bonding and growth and realisations
territory, I understand that your
that blossom throughout the process
family, including yourself, have
that indeed capture the true spirit of
unfortunately been seriously
what we do. Although we specialise in
affected by cancer. Would you mind
education in period or vintage styling
telling our readers who are not
with regards to hair and makeup
familiar with your story, about your
styles of the 1930s to the 1960s, the
experiences?
importance of undergarments, posture, deportment, manners, etcetera, are timeless in their delivery and message.
CHRISSY: We as a family have had our fair share of struggle, pain, loss and sorrow to be sure. The past three years
EMILY: Why do you think it’s
I have lost my Dad (67yo), my baby
important for young women to
sister Elisha (34yo), and most recently
have a deeper understanding of
my Mum (70yo), and then on top of it
etiquette, grooming and of their
all I was diagnosed last year. It is hard
overall personal style?
to comprehend some days, and it is only when I am recounting the story to
part of our ‘Mum and daughter time’ we
CHRISSY: When girls are on the
others that I hear myself and stop and
went dancing each week and… enter
threshold of becoming women, it is
say “Oh my God, how on earth did we
Mr Right, my Ray! We met at a dance –
important for them to feel confident in
cope?” The power of the human spirit,
corny, hey – and locked eyes and fell
who they are, and this is reflected in
and the force in which we faced every
head over heels. Actually, that’s not
how they present themselves. I am
day, driven by hope, is quite amazing.
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“ I get to make a difference – even if only on a small scale... I get
to witness a little bit of magic every time that smile broadens across a woman’s face, and that snap of realisation becomes apparent and she believes she really is beautiful! It’s always there, but sometimes life buries it beneath, and I am blessed to be able to peel back the layers and let her shine again. I love that feeling.
”
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Chrissy and her students making the Lindy Charm School oath, including “Thou shalt always endeavour to wear red lipstick. And to ensure that our seams are straight … We promise to give frequent compliments, and make an effort to spend a few moments of each and every day on ourselves.”
There was one moment which haunts
genetic breast and ovarian cancer,
EMILY: I understand that you’ve
me to this day; it still sums up the
and still it blindsided us and took the
bravely undergone an elective
madness of this time for me. One
youngest in our family.
mastectomy and hysterectomy.
evening, my 45kg cancer-ravished sister Elisha who was in ward 2A bumped into my Dad who was shuffling back to his ward, 2B, after visiting my Mum in ward
Mum’s treatment for her cancer was causing a lot of complications and her cancer was becoming more aggressive.
Would you mind telling us about that decision and how it has affected your life?
It’s hard to fathom how she coped every
CHRISSY: Once I had my gene testing
after treatment. Elisha told me a few
day, losing her husband and soul mate
done and we knew the odds, coupled
days later that that meeting was the
of 48 years, and then one year later
with our strong patterned family history,
last she saw her Dad. He passed away
losing her youngest daughter all the
it was a no-brainer for me to have the
a couple of days later, but she did not
while fighting her own battle. So you can
double prophylactic subcutaneous
know this at the time as she had lapsed
imagine how difficult it was for me to
mastectomy and reconstruction, plus a
into a coma for a few days. When she
have to tell my family, especially Mum,
radical medical hysterectomy. It means
woke I had to tell her Dad had gone.
that I too had been diagnosed with
they took everything – now instead
Every day we visited the hospital, and
cancer. I had to go into hospital to get
of a pap smear I have a vault smear!
I sometimes got to that fork in the
my pick line for chemo and the nurse
(Laughs) My kids nagged me until it
corridor and did not know which way
said to me “did you know your Mum is in
was done. It was a year out of my life
to go first. We had no time to really
the room next door?” She was in and out
that was quite confronting, painful and
process Dad’s passing as there was
so much of late that it wasn’t uncommon
indeed a journey in which I wished I did
much to be done to try and raise money
for us to not know immediately. I had to
not have to take, but that was my choice
and awareness to save Elisha.
pop next door and tell her.
based on the facts and the knowledge
At that time it was not uncommon for
Mum always believed I would be okay.
Mum and Elisha to be receiving their
She was such an inspiration and never
chemo treatments together. Up until
complained and always was full of love,
three years ago I had not seen death
faith and hope. It’s amazing what us
up close, and it wasn’t until Elisha’s
women do to save the feelings of our
diagnosis that I realised what it was like
loved ones. I never showed how scared
not to be able to breathe. The hurt, the
or hurt or sick I felt so as not to worry
fear, the anxiety, the crushing heaviness
my family, because Mum never did
on my heart was real. We, as a family,
either, so I had a strong role model to
had done all we thought possible to
follow. Plus, after the last three years,
In short, balancing the hormones has
prevent, to learn, to gather knowledge
I was an expert at the drill, so just got
been somewhat of a challenge, but
and to educate ourselves and anyone
on with it and continued to work where
every woman at some point has to go
that wanted to know more about BRCA
I could.
through that. Mine was just a bit early,
2C – she was only there on a short stay
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we had at the time. Yes, I still got cancer, but not of the breast or ovaries. Would I do it again? Yes. Is it for everyone? No. There are so many variables and each person can only make their decision based on what they know and what they believe, and there is no wrong or right. The right decision for you can only be made by you.
that’s all. Losing my breasts was very confronting and I was completely flat chested for many months before construction. One thing I know for sure – no boobs in my vintage clothes did not look good! I miss my real boobs – the sensations, the jiggle and all their lopsidedness – but I am thankful for my reconstructed mounds that fill out my clothes and give me my womanly shape. But do they define me? No. They are now just a wonderful accessory that I am grateful to be able to have. They are cancer free and fabulous. EMILY: Another thing that I find amazing is how you’ve used your own personal experience to not only raise awareness about cancer, but also to help cancer warriors – as you so rightly put it – to feel beautiful after undergoing chemotherapy. Can you tell us about why this is so important to you?
“ ...we went to the media,
and through it all we had thousands of letters of thanks, support and stories of how her story had saved them or someone they know, because it made them stop and think and get a check-up, or even just learn to self-check and be more aware. Elisha’s story touched the hearts of many around the world and she was so happy – that if her story had saved but one life, then it was worth all the pain and the exposure.
”
CHRISSY: Before I got cancer, I sat for hours in one treatment room or another with Dad, Elisha and Mum, and I always watched interactions of these people. It was like a club – not a club you want to belong to – but there was a quiet respect of the struggles each were going through. As a family we have always been an open book. Firstly, to share the knowledge we had learned, and then secondly, we needed to be to help fight for Elisha’s life. So we went to the media and through it all we had thousands of letters of thanks, support and stories of how her story had saved them or someone they know, because it made them stop and think and get a check-up, or even just learn to selfcheck and be more aware. Elisha’s story touched the hearts of many around the world and she was so happy – that if her story had saved but one life, then it was worth all the pain and the exposure. Just when I think I want to close that book and move on, I get a letter or a call asking for an ear or advice or just some hope, and my heart opens again. As much as it hurts to relive moments, I’d much rather hurt than ignore and forget. When it comes to feeling beautiful post-chemo, I think Elisha summed it up best when she said, “how you feel inside is far more important than how you look on the outside! [It’s the] age old saying, beauty comes from within.” EMILY: What’s next for you? What can our readers look forward to? CHRISSY: Our calendar is filling up, check out the diary online! We have workshops and pin up shoots already locked in for Melbourne, Canberra and Brisbane, and we will be heading off to Darwin again this year too! Next stop though is the Art Deco Festival in Napier, and I can hardly wait to get lost in a plume of feathers, ‘Gatsby Style!’ We are offering a whole array of services, from our ever popular vintage styling workshops, masterclasses and pop up styling parlors, to bespoke themed parties and hosting an afternoon tea with a sip of manners.
To learn more about Chrissy’s touching story, check out the book or DVD ‘Pieces of Me’ at www.bigskypublishing.com.au. For more information on the Lindy Charm School and their exciting upcoming events, visit their website at www.thelindycharmschoolforgirls.com or follow Chrissy on Instagram @lindycharmschool or on Facebook at facebook.com/TheLindyCharmSchool. As a special treat for Adore Pin Up Readers: Subscribe to the Lindy Charm School for Girls newsletter at www.thelindycharmschoolforgirls.com and receive a 20% discount on any workshop or product on their site. Enter the code ADORE upon checkout.
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DOLLY DENKO IS DOCTRIN ‘Doctrin’ is the one-woman band of Australian singer-songwriter, multi-instrumentalist and producer Dolly Denko, fusing pop and alternative music, and merging 90’s style with Bettie Page bangs and red lipstick. I caught up with Dolly while she was visiting Melbourne from LA, just before her gig at Cherry Bar and the release of her latest self-directed music video ‘Water Sign’. Photography by Mansoor Anwar. Interview by Brianna Blackhart.
BRIANNA: Have you just gotten back
BRIANNA: You can hear the LA twang in
BRIANNA: Can you listen to your own
to Melbourne?
your voice though. I always get asked
music without it feeling really weird?
if I’m American if I’ve been hanging
Does it feel analytical or can you turn
out with anyone that has an American
that part of yourself off and be like ‘I
accent. We’ll see if this is enough.
made this, this is great’.
I was so busy before I left I didn’t really
DOLLY: It’s there just because you have to
DOLLY: Yeah, I’m at the point now where
get a chance to rehearse.
say things a certain way otherwise they
I made it and it’s great. But there is an
don’t understand what you’re saying!
analytical moment I think… when I first
DOLLY: Yeah I got back last week... I’ve been rehearsing for a show tomorrow. Also dusting off the cobwebs, because
BRIANNA: How long has it been since you performed?
BRIANNA: What’s the show going to be
DOLLY: In this capacity, with a drummer,
anyone?
because I’ve been playing by myself in LA, it’s been like nine months or
like tomorrow? Are you playing with
DOLLY: It’s at Cherry Bar, which is a pretty
something.
renowned place in Melbourne, where
BRIANNA: Are you originally from here?
bit more on the edgy side of things. I’m
DOLLY: Yeah I’m from Melbourne. I live about half an hour out of town. ADORE PIN UP 18
a lot of rock stuff has happened. It’s a playing with a band called EMPRA, and
start writing I’m not being analytical, I’m being creative. Once I have the idea down and I’ve decided I want to further work on that song and produce it to a point where I’m happy with it, that’s where I start to get really analytical and pull it apart. And I may end up hating it, that has happened, but usually I can make it sound how I want it to.
The Lovelies, who I haven’t actually heard
Once I get through that, which is the
before, but they’re cute.
rough part – being honest with yourself,
being super critical, and asking yourself
BRIANNA: Where did the name come
opinionated person, so good luck to
‘is this actually a good song?’ and ‘have
from? How long have you had it for?
you if you want to tell me what to do,
I honoured what the original idea was?’ – once you get past that and you get to that point where you’re happy with
DOLLY: I think I came up with it nearly two years ago, after my other band
because you probably won’t get through to me.
decided we were going to split. I was
I’ve had comments and people are
wondering what I was going to do with
confused by how I mix those two
myself. I put everything I had into it, and
elements or why. And that really annoys
I was a bit lost. And when I did finally
me, when people try to box… actually
decide, yeah I want to keep making
what annoys me the most is when people
music, I had been thinking about what
try to discount pop music, or discount
I want and making myself happy. The
the hard work that people like Britney
with what I was making.
word ‘Doctrin’ came to me because I was
Spears have put in. Or even recently,
watching The West Wing and they were
Meghan Trainor, who…I’m not a huge fan
BRIANNA: You refer a lot to ‘Doctrin’
talking about doctrines. I also went to
of, I respect what she does, but I’m not
Catholic school and I was raised learning
out there buying her record… but I did
about what doctrines are. I figured that
see someone complaining that she won a
mean to you, the idea of a ‘project’?
what I was looking for was to write the
Grammy ahead of Courtney Barnett, who
doctrine, the doctrine of Dolly. I dropped
some would see as a bit more alternative
DOLLY: To me Doctrin is a band, with one
the ‘e’ stylistically to write it because I
and organic, as opposed to the put
person. Until I find the right people to be
felt like it was pronounced better that
together, sheeny-shiny Meghan Trainor.
in it I guess. But it’s really difficult to find
way. I felt like this was my story, my
And that really annoys me, because I’m
the people that you think you might have
experience, my life and my knowledge,
sure Meghan worked just as hard as
solid future relationships with, until you
so I’m writing my ‘Doctrin’. I thought
Courtney, and Courtney worked just as
can properly portray what it is that you
about what it would imply if I were to go
hard as Meghan, and everyone’s doing
want to make. So I felt like I had to make
by ‘Dolly Denko’, and it sends the wrong
the same thing. We all have to step into
this on my own, so that people knew
message, because I want to collaborate
the studio, we all have to sing and play
what I was about. And then the people
and I want to have people involved, they
whatever instruments we play, and we all
that are genuinely interested and love
just need to be the right people.
have to think about getting on stage and
the production, that’s where I can really sit back and listen. I think that was an imperative thing for me when I started this project – all the music I make, I have to enjoy listening to... if I can’t enjoy it, no one else is really going to. I felt like with this project, I finally felt really happy
as a project, rather than a name for yourself as an artist. What does that
what I do might want to be a part of it. Rather than meeting someone and trying to describe to them what I want to do in
BRIANNA: I like that you were just like ‘You know what, it was partially
rehearsing. It doesn’t matter what kind of music you make, if you’re operating on that level, there’s a lot of work involved.
the future.
inspired by West Wing’. It’s nice when
BRIANNA: Do you feel like you have
like that. I was reading one of your
a strong urge to find other people
past interviews and you were talking
to be in the band, or are you happy
about how you were proud of your
doing it on your own until someone
Britney Spears and Avril phase when
comes along?
you were younger, and you cite Gwen
BRIANNA: When your PR person first
Stefani as an influence among Marilyn
contacted me she described you as
Manson and Placebo. Those kind of
very 90s, and I was reading about
pop artists can get a lot of flack for
your musical influences and they
being vain and lacking real meaning,
include Hole and Garbage, but your
among almost everything else young
look has a pretty ‘modern pin up’ feel
girls like from pop culture. So it’s nice
to it, with your Bettie Page bangs. Do
when people embrace it. Have you
you draw any specific influences from
ever felt pressure to stay more in the
the mid-century era?
DOLLY: I think with the last band I was in, I forced finding people to rush and put a band together, and although I was still meticulous about who they were and whether they were right for the group, it still was fast, so I think in this case I really want things to fall into place when they fall into place, rather than me trying to force it to happen. BRIANNA: Pretty much just like a
people aren’t ashamed to admit stuff
alternative camp, or have you ever felt like anyone was uncomfortable with that genre being combined with
You don’t get to be Britney Spears and not work hard. And I think a lot of alternative music fans that are very onetrack and don’t respect all music can get very critical of everything else.
DOLLY: As an adult I found burlesque and pin up. It’s empowering, I really enjoy that element. And Bettie Page for
relationship.
pop and made more feminine?
DOLLY: Absolutely. Last time I rushed in
DOLLY: I think if I were younger there
her attitude, just because she didn’t let
and got really excited, we all got really
would be a lot of people telling me what
anyone shame her. She owned what she
excited, and it just didn’t work out. But
to do. But I think when you’re in your 20’s
did and she took full responsibility for
that’s cool, we live and learn and we’re
people are like, ah well, she kind of has
what she did. And there were obviously
all better for it now.
an idea of what she is. And I’m a really
people who were heavily against what
me is a huge influence, I love her. I love
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she did, but I think if you believe in what
the time, I think everyone’s going to find
The day before, I was on set helping
you’re doing enough you can shun the
something wrong with themselves at
to assist on her video. She was self-
shamers and prove them wrong, and
some point…
directing too, and I was there shouting
she did that a lot. I’m sure that it wasn’t glamorous all the time and she had a lot
BRIANNA: I think that’s important –
of challenges, but she rose up.
you’re not failing if you don’t achieve
Modern pin ups like Dita do a lot, I think,
time, it’s okay, everyone’s still on that
for women owning their bodies. And
journey. You also recently directed a
that’s probably why I gravitated to it,
new music video for your song ‘Water
because it’s empowering. I have always
Sign’. Can you tell us more about
been a sexual being. A lot of people
the video and the process behind
shame girls for having sexual feelings
making it?
and desires, and that’s really confusing at a young age because you’re growing up and you might be interested in guys or girls or whatever you’re into, and people are telling you not to feel certain things or act a certain way. I think there’s a line between acting in a detrimental way to yourself, and honouring your sexuality. The fact burlesque and pin up honour sexuality is really important to me. BRIANNA: With your video shoot for ‘Give Me Love’, you were talking in one of your past interviews about how there were burlesque influences to it, and how it had body positive ideas involved with it. Can you tell me more about that? DOLLY: I really saw this video in my head when I had the song written, and I always knew I wanted that element in
body confidence 100 per cent of the
There’s symbolism in this one that means something to me. People may not pick it up, it’s something that is personal to me – it’s the water, the way I’m interacting with the male lead. And the setting is a dreamscape setting, at twilight. Twilight
“
I made the video to say ‘I really don’t care’. I feel good, and I think that women need to feel good regardless of what size they are, and you can still be sexy and do great things and have a good time regardless of what your size is.
”
a hotel room. The body positive thing
is like ‘my time’, I feel really good at
is me pre-empting the fact that people
night. We shot it during the day and then
are probably going to watch and say ‘oh,
we treated it to make it look like it was
she’s not skinny enough to be doing stuff
night time. It has an interesting look; it
like that’. So I made the video to say ‘I
looks a bit odd, which is good because
really don’t care’. I feel good, and I think
dreams are odd.
that women need to feel good regardless of what size they are, and you can still be sexy and do great things and have a good time regardless of what your size is. I
BRIANNA: Behind the camera, how many people were working on the shoot?
have friends that are in the same boat as
DOLLY: I usually keep the team pretty
me, and it goes both ways; I have friends
small because I’m always on a budget
who are skinnier than me trying to put on
and I like to just cruise through. When
weight and friends who are larger trying
you’re sticking to that you try to keep
to lose weight. No one’s happy, but we
everything relatively streamlined, and
all need to find some kind of peace at
I generally know what I want and keep
some point, and I think that if you can be
pushing it in that direction. On that one
free with yourself in the bedroom and in
there were four of us; myself, the lead
private, then that’s really important. Just
male, the camera guy and my friend Lucy
to be able to express yourself and feel
who is an artist in LA. We work together a
comfortable sometimes – not all
lot, helping each other with music videos.
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bra strap fell down’, telling someone they’re too far out of the frame, and just making her feel like she has someone to offload onto. The ranch we shot at was her family ranch, and she was driving a golf cart trying to get around on the property. We’re both independent artists, and if anything’s on we’re always there for each other.
DOLLY: This one is more like a metaphor.
it…burlesque performers, lingerie and
out and saying ‘maybe try this’ or ‘your
A lot of artists do that, and I think it’s really important to be there for each other in the early days. We all love to do it and it’s exciting to be there because you get to learn as well. The basis of LA is networking and helping each other grow, and that’s why I love it there so much. Lucy and I help each other decide what message we want to send and if the video portrays that. So we’ll have meetings and talk about storyboards and photo-shoots and album art. All the things that if you were on a label you would have a whole team of people to sit down with. We don’t have that as independent artists, so it’s important to come together and sit down and help each other figure out what to do. If you’re doing it all on your own it’s a heavy load, so it’s nice to have other people in the same boat who know the pressure of it all. BRIANNA: Have you done any other travelling in the States while you’ve been over in LA? DOLLY: Well last time I was there I toured a little. So I did from LA up to Seattle, and we drove the whole way, so I kind of hit the whole West Coast… Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz, San Francisco, Portland, Seattle, and everything in-between. I saw a lot and that was really beautiful, I love it there. I’ve been to Vegas a couple of times, and the desert in between, Joshua Tree. And Mexico, which is really pretty. I really like the history there; it connects with me a lot. I haven’t done the East Coast yet but I’m really keen. Watch Doctrin’s latest videos at www.dollydoctrin.com
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Sommar flick i hagen
Summer girl in the field
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NICOLE MELROSE photography & styling Stephanie Zaicew Nicole represented by Vicious Model Management location Uppsala, Sweden
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wearing (this page) bra, apron & knickers by L’agent & stockings by Agent Provocateur (opposite page) corset by Agent Provocateur
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wearing (opposite page) dress by Chi Chi, heels by Pleaser & vintage blouse
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photography & styling Stephanie Zaicew interview by Brianna Blackhart Nicole wears L’agent & Agent Provocateur
An interview with international stylist
Stephanie Zaicew Stephanie Zaicew is a freelance Australian stylist, originally Sydneybased and now working in London. Her strong eye for style, her study at Central Saint Martins and her lifelong affinity for vintage saw her move effortlessly into the fashion industry, and she breathes fresh air into modern shoots by carefully curating original vintage with high-end pieces and mass-market fashion. She was an important part of the very first issue of Adore Pin Up, styling the cover shoot, giving an interview and being a second eye and ear for editing questions. Two years on, she has worked across the globe in London, Paris and Stockholm, where this shoot came to be, and it was time to catch up with her. ADORE PIN UP 28
BRIANNA: Can you summarise
London! I’ve since worked between
everything you’ve been up to since
Sydney, London, Paris and Sweden,
you moved from Sydney to London?
with some of my favourite magazines,
Everything. Okay, the highlights. What
models and brands, producing work I
inspired the move to begin with?
never thought would be possible for me.
STEPHANIE: I was continually uninspired
BRIANNA: You have been involved in
by the commercial-driven work coming
a great deal of professional photo
out of Australia. If you look at my work
shoots as a stylist. What made you
from the time I was in Sydney, it was
decide to move into photography?
still highly conceptualised and the
Do you have any goals with your
opposite of Australian fashion. I decided
photography – do you see yourself
to independently apply to study at the
doing it for work?
prestigious Central Saint Martins in London, and unexpectedly got accepted!
STEPHANIE: I actually started out in
Not long after I arrived, my work started
photography when I was 14, and always
progressing, and after meeting my
wanted to be a photographer but
now partner and photographer, I felt
became disheartened fairly quickly as
going home would have sent my work
everyone I would speak to about it –
backwards, so I decided to stay in
predominately other photographers –
were often dismissive. This is the main
will take, say, 70 – always making sure
when I’m working with models it’s a
reason as to why I moved into fashion
to make each shot count, and only
persona they’re putting on, like an
design; I still wanted to be a part of the
stopping when I reach perfection.
actress. Yet with this shoot, I wanted
industry and convey my ideas, but in a medium I felt more accepted in. When I moved into fashion styling, I started to take Polaroids during photo shoots, and it wasn’t until people started to see them and want more, that I thought hey, maybe I should give this a shot again! I find it hard to see myself doing
A lot of people, especially models, find it quite intimidating, as they can’t see the images while I’m shooting. I prefer to keep what I see through the lens to myself, and I’ve always been like this with my work. I never want anyone to see what I’m doing until the
to tell a story, while still portraying authenticity of the subject and images. We had certain ideas we wanted to do, but as I was in such a foreign environment which I’d never even seen, most elements were spontaneous and picked up along the way.
finished product is ready. Also you’re
BRIANNA: You must have owned
never guaranteed that the images will
hundreds and hundreds of vintage
actually come out. Although I always
pieces since you began collecting.
BRIANNA: Have you drawn inspiration
take Polaroids alongside, that’s not
Are there any stand out, favourite
from any particular photographers?
a guarantee and those still take 40
pieces that come to mind? What did
Who would you consider your
minutes to develop. I think the added
you absolutely have to hold onto
favourites and why?
element of mystery through not
whilst you were selling through your
knowing what a picture will be, is what
Etsy shop?
it for work at this point in time, but who knows what the future holds.
STEPHANIE: I’ve always had somewhat of an influence by other photographers and their work. In such a highly saturated industry it’s hard not to even subconsciously be impacted by their images, but I feel inspiration is simply a word for people who aren’t really doing anything. I will admit I admire Helmut Newton – for the way he portrayed female power and strength in his photographs through his precise and cinematic compositions and storytelling. And in a way I consider his portrayal akin to the way Ellen Von Unwerth does, but from a female voyeuristic point of view. I’ve always loved her work. Growing up my aunty had an image of one of Unwerth’s photographs on the wall, it was Eva Herzigova as Bettie Page. I was always
drives me.
“ I wanted to portray
the girl I know. Most of the time when I’m working with models it’s a persona they’re putting on, like an actress. Yet with this shoot, I wanted to tell a story, while still portraying authenticity of the subject and images.
”
STEPHANIE: Without a doubt my 1940s-50s Christian Dior pieces, which stemmed from one piece to an entire collection! Monsieur Dior and his New Look is what developed my interest in vintage fashion, and there’s nothing more delightful than owning pieces designed by the man who pioneered what is considered to be one of history’s most iconic fashion looks. BRIANNA: How would you describe your personal style? When you are buying vintage, do you often buy with yourself in mind? What percentage of your collection would you say that you wear? STEPHANIE: When I buy vintage, I
BRIANNA: Can you describe the
must admit, I usually consider if I can
process of designing the shoot with
feature it in an editorial! Out of my
Nicole? Did you have any kind of
collection it’s actually a very small
mood board or inspiration, or did it
amount that I still wear, which is quite
part of that world.
just come together on the day? Do
a change looking back on myself two
you have a preference for highly
years ago, as I was head to toe in
BRIANNA: What attracts you to film
planned vs. more improvised shoots?
vintage most days. My personal style is
so fascinated by the image, I’d never seen anything like it. I was intrigued by the sensuality and I didn’t know at the time what it was, but I wanted to be a
photography, and what is different
continually evolving, but like the style STEPHANIE: The entire shoot was
of my work, I have always stayed true
digital?
completely on a whim! Nicole was
to who I was originally. I like to look
staying with me in London and asked
back and embrace the past but keep it
STEPHANIE: There’s so much more that
me to go to Sweden with her, and next
contemporary. I do this by mixing high-
goes into shooting on film than digital.
thing I knew I was on a plane three
end luxury pieces, mass-market low-end
As it’s so limiting I feel in some ways,
days later, shooting over two days for
fashion and vintage simultaneously, to
more of an effort has to be made. I have
the first time on film in 6 years! I know
create a look unique to myself.
to consider and be more concise with
Nicole personally, and I wanted this to
each frame I photograph. Rather than
have more realism to it – I wanted to
taking 3000 photographs in a day I
portray the girl I know. Most of the time
about the process compared to
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AT H O M E W I T H
photography Vestige Photography muah Lindy Sue styling Addie Hamilton interview by Brianna Blackhart
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Addie Hamilton’s Instagram bio
Starting off as a kid at the Emmys has
the weird girl who played dress up.
jokingly titles herself as “Your
definitely made me hungry to get
Besides higher-end equipment and
grandma’s best friend”, and I can’t
my music back into the world and
the occasional studio, not much has
help but think it would be at least
nominated again! (Plus, it’s another
changed since my first shoots. I become
excuse to splurge on a great dress.)
infatuated with a look or location,
a little bit true. While the idea of
develop a story around it with props,
living in the wrong century is often
BRIANNA: Who are your musical
bandied around, Addie looks truly
wardrobe, hair and makeup. I still feel
inspirations? Do you regularly listen
at home in the styles of yesteryear,
like I haven’t reached the point of my
to modern music or are you firmly
dream shoot – I love the work of Tim
and I’ve seen few pin up models
dedicated to vintage genres and
Walker and would love to have more
with a knowledge and appreciation
artists of the past?
whimsical prop-driven shoots rather
of vintage fashion that runs as deep as hers. It’s no surprise that
ADDIE: I commute from Orange County
than just wardrobe driven.
to LA most days of the week, which
BRIANNA: Your photos often feature
gives me plenty of time to get music in my head. I never get tired of Chet
life – she has an infatuation with
your own vintage wardrobe, and you also style for other shoots. How
Baker, Eartha Kitt, Stan Getz and Delta
old were you when you first started
1930s-60s jazz, swing and R&B,
Blues – all of whom were introduced
and a meticulously decorated
to me from my great grandmother’s
wearing vintage regularly, and what were the first pieces that started
home, captured within these pages
collection. On the rare occasion that
your collection?
by Vestige Photography. With a
I’m not in a jazz mood I dive into Cake,
her passion for vintage is just as strong in another areas of her
burgeoning career as a singersongwriter and an Emmy nomination under her belt already, Addie Hamilton is a name to watch out for. BRIANNA: You are currently working
Danny Elfman Soundtracks, Sam Cooke, and the list goes on. When it comes to performing songs, I tend to never leave jazz out of it – if I cover a modern song its likely that the melody has been altered and there’s a piece of brass
ADDIE: I have been through multiple, multiple, multiple, phases – all revolving around costume, vintage, or handmade clothes. When I was in high school I went through an uber punk phase and shaved my head, but
added in the arrangement.
somehow still put on a 30s gown to
describe your ‘sound’, and what has
BRIANNA: At only twenty years of
don’t get it and that’s fine; I probably
the process in creating the album
age, you have an extraordinarily
wouldn’t either looking from the
been like so far?
impressive and diverse modeling
outside in. I worked at a brilliant vintage
portfolio. What have been the
shop in my hometown when I was 16
highlights of your work in front of
for almost two years. That’s when I
the camera so far?
really started going after earlier vintage
on your first album. How would you
ADDIE: Yes! I grew up listening to records from my great grandmother’s collection, and haven’t run too far from
go to the grocery store. A lot of people
and dove into the pop culture of it.
there. I’ve been connecting a lot of the
ADDIE: Thank you! I love being in front of
old sounds that I grew up with, with
and behind the camera. I have the most
more modern sounds. You can expect to
fun when I hold the reigns to creative
hear a bit more modern and cinematic
vision. I love pairing location with
BRIANNA: Do you have any favourite pieces in your vintage collection? Or would that be like choosing a
production than traditional jazz would.
wardrobe, hair, and makeup that is all
favourite child?
It all runs in the swing/jazz/pop vein.
cohesive and tells a story. I have done
BRIANNA: Your resume boasts an Emmy nomination for your singing and songwriting. What work was it that gained this nomination? What was it like to find out about it? ADDIE: When I was 15 I started working on songwriting my original material, and the first song written in studio ended up making its way to a television placement, which was a great way to
more commercial work but that is not really where my heart is at, unless the product screams my name. Working with Miss L Fire for their past two seasons would definitely be an example of a ‘commercial’ editorial that I have a blast on, and where I am passionate about their branding and creative direction. BRIANNA: What was the first photo shoot you did like? At what point did you decide you wanted to do
ADDIE: Favourites of course! Most of my favourites are actually gadgets. I love anything that looks quirky but can also be used for something else. I have an early 1900s sterling lipstick case that has a spring mirror and the fanciest little carvings. When it comes to clothes, my Emmy dress is up there on the list. It’s a 1930s peach bias gown with petal sleeves my friend Esther gave me from her shop in LA. Heirlooms are close behind; I have
this professionally?
some mourning jewelry with braided
had the best team to guide me there
ADDIE: My best friend in high school
factor wears off when you see how
and I am so thankful.
was a photographer and I was always
intricate and beautiful they are!
dip my feet into the music business. The nomination was totally surreal – I
locks from my ancestors – the creepy
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BRIANNA: Where are your go-to places
BRIANNA: Is styling for other models very
to shop for vintage? Do you prefer the
different to styling your own modeling work?
experience of online shopping, curated stores or thrifting? What was the best
ADDIE: Styling for other models is always great!
vintage bargain you ever found?
I love to see people react to wearing vintage for
ADDIE: I rarely to never online shop unless it’s
lesson involved that I spiel about.
for crafting material, maaaybe. I like digging. I’m a rosebowl girl and it brings out the worst of me – I’ll bargain down to half the price of something even when I know it’s worth five times the original amount. I love my Art Deco bedroom set – it’s five pieces with a funny little vanity I scored on Craigslist for under $300. Bingo! BRIANNA: Can you tell us more about your cover shoot with Susana from Vestige
the first time, and there is most always a history
BRIANNA: You also practice millinery; what got you into that? Is your millinery work inspired by particular eras in fashion? ADDIE: Millinery sprouted from fixing. Many of my favorite garments are pre-1930, and even with the most careful hand they can break over time. I hate wasting material so I marry different dead pieces to make something whimsical! I
Photography?
love the absurd hats of the Victorian era and
ADDIE: Susana is a dream and such a
often take.
powerhouse! She travelled from her home in San Diego to mine in Orange County for this particular shoot, which allowed me to pull a lot more things than I would have been able to otherwise. My great-grandfather’s 1932 Roadster was shot, which was a big highlight for me. You can spot it on some early covers of Hotrod Magazine with him in it, so I made it a point for Susana to shoot his son (my grandfather) with it after hours. BRIANNA: For the shoots you do that are for the sake of creating photography rather than specifically for work, do you find they are often driven by the fashion, or do you usually select pieces to work with a preexisting concept? ADDIE: All depends. Sometimes I want it all to be about a prop and I work around that, sometimes the location is what I play off of. My favorite shoots are self portraits, but unfortunately my camera broke (and broke again this weekend) so I haven’t been able to dabble in it as much. I love being fully in control of the vision and being to blame if something doesn’t go as I had imagined.
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the concept of more is more – that’s a route I
BRIANNA: In addition to progressing on your album, what do you hope to achieve in your career in 2016? ADDIE: I’m not looking at 2016 being anything other than music for me. I am currently codirecting my first music video, which has been such a fun project! (GET EXCITED!!) Performing is always on my mind and I am excited to see my show grow more and more theatrical. In my spare time I love to dance – lindy, solo and tandem Charleston, and boogie. Almost everything I enjoy is part of an art form, whether it be costuming, photography, dancing, singing, yada-yada-yada. I’m pursuing all those hoping to weave them back into my performance as well, so in the end everything comes back to the music. Interview by Brianna Blackhart. Photography by Vestige Photography. Hair & makeup by Lindy Sue. Styling by Addie Hamilton. Find Addie online www.addiehamiltonmusic.com @addiehamilton
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photography Vestige Photography muah Lindy Sue styling Addie Hamilton
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“ I like digging. I’m a
rosebowl girl and it brings out the worst of me – I’ll bargain down to half the price of something even when I know it’s worth five times the original amount. I love my Art Deco bedroom set – it’s five pieces with a funny little vanity I scored on craigslist for under $300. Bingo! ”
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All that
B E T T I E B U TC H E R photography Lauren Horwood muah The Makeup Wardrobe jumpsuit by Cassandra Cadillac
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Laila ShalimaR The Desi Lucille Ball WORDS & STYLING BY LAILA SHALIMAR PHOTOS BY DAVID WOOLLEY – VINTAGE GLAMOUR PHOTOGRAPHY
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“I had no idea you were so tattooed Laila!” my client Suzi* said as she settled her account at the salon where I work as a receptionist. I smiled at her and racked my brains for a short, sweet answer. “That’s because I normally wear cardigans. I get cold easy.” That was a halftruth. My habitual cardigan wearing was partly due to the air conditioning, but mostly to hide my ink from conservative members of my community. Confused? Let me explain.
“terrorist” and “foreign” constantly, based on a media bias and general misconceptions, and it really affected
“ At home, in front of
the screen with Lucy and
my confidence as a teenager.
Desi, I was safe. There
It wasn’t all gloom and doom though.
names like “raghead”
Not having any friends for a good part of my high school life meant that I became a lot closer to my parents. My mother and I regularly went op shopping in
was no one to call me “terrorist” or “curry muncher”, things I heard all too often on the
Fremantle, a lovely little seaside town
school playground. The
in W.A. My father and I would watch
most complicated thing
back to back episodes of I Love Lucy
Lucy had to deal with
and Petticoat Junction on cable TV, and
was how to keep Desi
he would tell me stories about how my mum used to have red curly hair just like Lucille Ball when he first married her. At home, in front of the screen with
My name is Laila Shalimar and I lead
Lucy and Desi, I was safe. There was no
a complicated double life. I am a
one to call me names like “raghead”
Pakistani Muslim Australian with a tattoo
“terrorist” or “curry muncher”, things
obsession and a penchant for vintage.
I heard all too often on the school
For all intents and purposes you could
playground. The most complicated
call me a pin up of colour, a pin up who
thing Lucy had to deal with was how to
is Muslim, or, as my father likes to call
keep Desi from finding out about her
me, ‘The Desi Lucille Ball’.
elaborate schemes to attain stardom! I was in awe of how funny and ballsy she
I was born in the Northwest of Pakistan
was. To a clumsy and socially awkward
in a little town called Peshawar, not far
teenager she was a beacon of hope.
from the Afghan border. My father is
from finding out about her elaborate schemes to attain stardom!
”
dark shadow. As beautiful as old movies were, and as much as I adored them, there was a part of me that still felt detached from the old world of Hollywood. All the big leading ladies were white. There wasn’t anyone who looked like me, and it made me very conscious of my ethnicity. At 16 I began bleaching my skin using skin products that are widely and legally available in Indian grocery stores. I tried
ethnic Pashtun (Afghan) and my mother
The first time I wore vintage was for
is of Tajik heritage. Before settling
my year 11 formal. I recall it was a
in Australia, my childhood involved
beautiful black dress, similar to the
travelling across Europe and the UK
iconic Breakfast at Tiffany’s dress that
thanks to my dad’s work. While it had
Hepburn wore in the film of the same
its benefits, it meant that I did not really
name. The dress was a compromise
get the chance to make many friends.
with my dad who wanted to ensure I
The turning point of my life came after
wore something “modest” to the mixed
September 11th 2001, after the fall of
gender event. It cost mum and I $20 at
the Twin Towers. In order to ensure our
the Retro Vinnies in Fremantle we so
safety, my father moved our family from
loved visiting. I decided to get my hair
Pakistan to Australia. I didn’t mind so
done in a Swiss roll, and bought myself
I would get upset if people told me
much as I was used to moving. This time,
long black gloves from a costume shop.
I looked like my very ethnic-looking
however, there was an air of difference
I recall feeling like a million bucks that
dad instead of my white-passable
with how people approached us.
night. My year 11 English teacher loved
mum. I would snap at people for asking
my outfit so much she asked if I wanted
me where I was ‘really’ from. These
I started school in Perth in May 2003.
to help her with a project of hers at
things made me feel I wasn’t doing
From the get go, I had people make
school – a black and white movie club
a good enough job at ‘being white’. I
assumptions about me based on my
after school.
would take it personally when Perth
racial and cultural background. I ate
strange home remedies like turmeric packs and vinegar baths. I never left home without green coloured contacts in. My nails were constantly brittle from slathering those creams all over my face and limbs, and the sun started causing my skin to blister, but I just couldn’t stop myself. What was even worse was how much I found myself internalising hate for my ethnicity.
photographers refused to work with
lunch by myself most days and went
The rest of my two years in high school
me on account of me not being the ‘all-
home on the bus alone most evenings.
saw me watching old Hollywood movies
American girl-next-door’ phenotype for
Kids can be cruel at the best of times,
every Thursday afternoon in one of our
their pin up photo shoots. In hindsight,
but what made my transition to Australia
lecture theatres. Marilyn, Rita, Audrey,
I really should have known that the flaw
harder was the fact that it wasn’t just
Bettie, Katharine – these were my new
was in the very one-dimensional way
kids that bullied me, it was the media
friends. However, there was still a
they viewed the history of pin up, and
too. I was labelled “un-Australian”, a
problem that followed me like a long
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Technology and social media is often
how far I have come being comfortable
given a bad rep in vintage loving circles,
in my own skin. I have found that looking
but what if I told you that sites like
into the history of burlesque, Hollywood
Tumblr and Facebook saved me? In
and Bollywood has provided me with
2011, after years of bleaching my skin, I
strong, beautiful brown women to look up
accidentally came across a Tumblr page
to just like my friends look up to Marilyn
dedicated to burlesque artists of colour. I
or Audrey. Through events such as Miss
must have spent hours scrolling through
Pinup Australia, I got to meet other pin
their archives and related hash tags. I was
ups of colour from my state. I have seen
hooked! Soon I started cutting down on
them succeed in the burlesque and pin
the use of my skin bleaching products.
up world and grow to be strong, positive
People have often asked how I balance
“I don’t know why being
Muslim and being interested in vintage or pin up culture have to be two mutually exclusive things? Perhaps because the post 9/11 world has become so preoccupied with the image of the Burqa-wearing damsel in need of rescuing, they have forgotten that we as women are a pretty diverse bunch. They have forgotten the Afghanistan of the 1950s and 60s, where women were influenced by the fashion of Marilyn and Jackie O.
”
role models for other women.
being Muslim with my love for vintage
This year, after being a spectator for quite
and pin up. My love of vintage fashion
some while, I have decided to throw
enabled me from very early on to be
caution to the wind and compete in the
uniquely stylish while maintaining a
‘Miss Illustrated’ category of Miss Pinup
degree of modesty. I don’t know why being Muslim and being interested in vintage or pin up culture have to be two mutually exclusive things? Perhaps because the post 9/11 world has become so preoccupied with the image of the Burqa-wearing damsel in need of rescuing, they have forgotten that we as women are a pretty diverse bunch. They have forgotten the Afghanistan of the 1950s and 60s, where women were influenced by the fashion of Marilyn and
Australia. While it would be nice to win a sash and tiara, for me the competition is so much more than that. I want to be able to stand tall and proud of who I am and show a different side of Desi and Muslim women. I don’t claim to represent either of these groups – I represent myself as a member of these communities. I think it is important to show that even within small communities, there exists such a plethora of subcultures and identities.
Jackie O. They don’t realise that before
I hope that my visibility in the pin up
the Islamic Revolution in 1979, Iran was
community, in competitions such as Miss
one of the most fashionable cities in the
Pinup Australia and in magazines such as
eastern region.
Adore Pin Up, can help shatter the glass
I guess my point is that there is not one correct or homogeneous way to be a Muslim woman, and there never has been. Though I would excuse anyone for thinking these days that Muslim fashion entirely revolves around hijabs and headscarves – the majority of the Muslim fashionistas on social media fall into the scarf-wearing ‘visible Muslim’ category. I am happy that hijabi fashion
ceiling for pin ups of colour trying to be comfortable with their identity within a historically anglocentric subculture. In the words of my dear friend and fellow pin up of colour, Kenjai, “Sometimes in order to be represented, we have to make the first move, get out there, and be ready to represent”. This is me, in all my glory, trying to do just that.
is getting the media attention it rightly deserves, but I balk at the idea that this is
Find Laila and more of
representative of all Muslim fashion. This
her writing online:
is why representation is so important to
www.midcenturymermaid.com
me, and is one of the reasons why I have
facebook.com/midcenturymermaid
started pursuing my own pin up dreams. * Name has been changed for the
This year has been my 5th year without using skin bleach, and I haven’t worn fashion contacts in years. I am proud of
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purpose of this article.
Dress kindly loaned from The Eclectic Squirrels
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AN INTERVIEW WITH SUSANA ANDREA OF VESTIGE PHOTOGRAPHY photography Vestige Photography model Athena Brownson hair His Vintage Touch makeup Shelby McElroy location Hotel Del Coronado interview by Brianna Blackhart
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Susana Andrea’s pin up imagery,
of the hospital after a short stay in
2015 I spent half the year on bed rest.
known as Vestige Photography,
the neonatal intensive care unit. He’s
It has been quite a journey. One year
is renowned the world over. Her
perfectly healthy and happy now, and
I was able to shoot in Australia, Israel,
passion for photography developed
he is almost a year old.
Canada, France, the United States, and
while she was still in high school,
BRIANNA: It’s been ten years
and she began photographing
since you started shooting pin up
popular modern pin up models such
photography. Can you tell us about
as Dayna Delux and Bernie Dexter
your very first shoots? When do you
to hone her skill. She is now one of
feel like you knew that this wasn’t
the most trusted names in the pin up scene, and photographs both models and everyday women, across
to focus your career on?
to see it for the first time? I know I
releasing her first book, Kittens
there and decided to take up the hobby
and Kulture. Across 178 of her
of photography. My dad gifted me a
have been integral to her work. BRIANNA: You have had great success with sharing your work online, with thousands and thousands of people following your photography pages. What made you decide to venture into print and publish your book, Kittens and Kulture? SUSANA: Several people had encouraged me in the past to put out a book, but I didn’t think I had enough years of experience under my belt, or that I had enough images in my vault. When I did the math, it turns out that I have over a decade of experience. Time really flies! I also had a hard time choosing images for the book. There have been so many lovely women who have worked with me in these years. I can’t wait to do a second volume and be able to dig back to the images that did not make it this time around. Schiffer did a lot of the hard work, so it was a relatively easy and very
favourite of mine.
releasing the book and getting
Phoenix, Arizona. I had just moved
world-renowned pin up girls that
every image in the book is a personal
BRIANNA: What was it like actually
the world. She is on the tails of
vintage reproduction designers and
make it and what wouldn’t. I think
hobby, but a passion you wanted
SUSANA: My first shoots were in
custom classic vehicle collectors,
was really hard to choose what would
just an experiment or a passing
the United States and throughout
best photos, the book features the
the United Kingdom all in one year. It
get excited every time I get to see the first print preview of the mag. Did you do anything special to celebrate its release?
camera, and I took it with me to rock
SUSANA: Seeing the book for the first
concerts. My first pin up shoot was a
time was satisfying, and at the same
commissioned shoot for a musician.
time a constant critique of whether it
After that, I photographed Dayna Delux
was good enough. That is a constant
at a car show, and some other local
struggle as an artist. The publishing
models at this vintage trailer park in
firm sent me a nice bottle of wine, and
southern Arizona. These shoots were
I celebrated with a toast. It was right
exciting, and I’d never had more fun
around the holidays, so it felt like a
behind the camera. I didn’t have any
Christmas present to me.
lighting equipment or a staff of stylists. The shoots were simple and stress free.
BRIANNA: We met in Brisbane a
I couldn’t even drive a car at this point.
few years ago when you were
Shortly after I published these images
Greazefest Kustom Kulture Festival,
on social media, I worked with Bernie
in partnership with hair and makeup
Dexter in San Diego, California. My
artist Lindy Sue. What was it like
dad dropped me off at her place, and
shooting in Australia? You must be
she would take me around to all the
so busy with your son, but do you
amazing little locations that San Diego
have any plans to return?
has to offer. She felt very creative at our shoots, because she mostly would shoot in the studio. We reunited to shoot for the book recently, and it felt just like those times. Some things never change. BRIANNA: How many shoots do you think you’ve done in your ten years? It must have been hard to narrow it all down to the 178 photos in your book! Do you have any particular favourites that are shown off in
the guest photographer at the
SUSANA: It was a dream to be able to participate in a weekender on the other side of the world. We both really enjoyed our time there, and it was wonderful to spend time working and playing with you. I was able to make some great relationships, including builder Ben Erdahl, who is featured in the book. He’s the Kulture to the Kittens, if you know what I mean. I would love to return, and I hope to within the next couple of years,
Kittens and Kulture?
especially since my husband hopes to
When I decided to take on the project,
SUSANA: I don’t know if I can say...
I have loved the elegance and grace
I had just had a very dangerous
Maybe 600? Some years were slower
that every pin up in Australia carries
complication with my pregnancy, and
than others. In 2011 I had a wedding
herself with. You ladies are truly a joy
I put myself on bed rest. This was the
and I was working full time at Iron Fist
to be around and work with. I plan to
perfect project to pass the time, and I
Clothing shooting their products, and I
include many more Australian pin ups
finished it by the time my baby was out
was also going to school full time. In
in Volume 2 of Kittens and Kulture.
enjoyable project.
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expand his business to your country.
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Step Back Seduction SARAH WOOLLEY @sarahalldolledup photography Jon Lee jonleephotography.com
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STYLING & WORDS BY TEER WAYDE. PHOTOS BY BROOKE ORCHARD. FEATURING PINUP GIRL CLOTHING.
Inspired by bad girls of vintage cinema
a red set. I was advised to size up as
Appropriately named the ‘Deadly
and the deadliest of dames, the new
these items were a small fit, and I went
Curves’ skirt, it hugs you in all the
range from Micheline Pitt at Pinup Girl
for a 2XL as opposed to my usual size
right places.
Clothing is absolute magic. Never have
of XL. With vintage reproduction style
I been so excited for line release – my
clothing, and with any style, don’t
heart has forever lusted after a full
focus too much on the size listed
faux leather outfit, and the time has
on the label, as it’s just a number or
finally come, in black, red and pink!
letter. My wardrobe is full of large’s
Being a super curvy girl I fell for
to 2XL’s in various brands, and this
Pairing these stunning pieces was simple, as each of the colour ways in faux leather have a matching moto bolero. I have to admit that I have a huge addiction to moto / biker jackets,
is mainly due to my hourglass shape.
with ten in my collection. I’ve hunted
To accommodate my large chest I
high and low for a super cropped
how they hug my hourglass figure, but
need to size up in some brands, or as
short version to wear with absolutely
my dreams of wearing leather skirts
mentioned, to size up due to a small fit.
everything, and finally I’ve found the
wiggle styles many years ago, and love
and dresses always seemed way to
holy grail of cropped bikers right here!
out of reach. How would the fit be?
From the moment I wiggled my way
From a super close fit, a perfect bust-
Would it add bulk? Would I be too big
into these items, I knew I’d found my
hugging and waist-slimming cut, and
for such brilliant fabrics? It’s that fear
second skin. The fit on both the skirt
brilliant silver zippers and snaps, this
that kills us when shopping, but the
and the Downtown Dame Wiggle Dress
is one item I can’t live without. That
best thing about companies like Pinup
are perfection, allowing room to move
much so, I had to pick up both the red
Girl Clothing is that they shoot all of
while still moulding to your curves.
and black versions.
their designs on models of various
The fabric is also lined and tailored to
sizes. So no matter if you are an XS or
perfection, with the fit being the most
Each season brings a plethora of new
4XL, they will have your body shape
important feature. I adore how each
and exciting designs from Pinup Girl
represented!
style fits me at the waist, bust and
Clothing and this winter every pin up
hips, without extra fabric or unwanted
will be a downtown moto dame.
Fear flew straight out of the window
looseness. The high-waisted pencil
when these hit the web store, and I
skirt is amazing in red faux leather,
quickly snapped up both a black and
and will be the IT skirt for this winter!
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Find more curvy pin up fashion picks from Teer at www.curvestokill.com
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Americana Fun in the Florida sun
W O R D S A N D P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y P E A R L D AV I E S F E AT U R I N G C H E R R Y D E V I N E ( R I G H T ) & R I A V O N S T R U D E L It’s the 1960s. Life is slower, space travel is the American dream come true, and sipping cocktails by the poolside is a naughty pleasure. Set upon the sunny east coast of Florida, the Cabana Bay Beach Resort takes you back in time to mid-century nostalgia, with the popped colours and abstract shapes these times were known for. Philadelphia’s Daroff Design collaborated with Miami based Architectural firm Shulman + Associates, to deliver a family-orientated resort and value-priced space for hotel goers on a tight budget. Karen Daroff of Daroff Design has envisioned an affordable resort, capable of transporting guests from the hustle and bustle of today, back to less hectic, free-living times. The resort’s architecture evolved from a concept referencing the Cabana colonies that were popular within the United States throughout the 50s and 60s. This new venture is Florida’s ultimate retroinspired space, popular with both locals and visitors. Within the lobby area, curls of aqua blue stream through the terrazzo, swimming past a sea of turquoise carpet set midpoint on the floor. A live 50 foot high palm tree grows in an enclosure in the center of the lobby; its white metal barrier reaching up toward an oval ADORE PIN UP 58
skylight. The exterior of the entry building contains a wall of porthole style windows, allowing light to flood the establishment upon entry. A striking multi-tiered diving platform in the pool area becomes a central hub for activities within the resort. Old fashioned family games and picnic areas circulate the main pool area, evoking a sense of playfulness and a laid-back culture. For drinks and dining, the 600-seat Bayliner Diner celebrates the era by continuously running vintage films in what Daroff Design describes as an “early space-age-inspired food court”. With NASA and Cape Canaveral just a leisurely drive from the resort, you are a stone’s throw from transporting yourself back to the 60s to reminisce and experience space history. You can also relive the 1950s bowling alley experience with dinner in the Galaxy Bowl Restaurant, or head out to The Hideaway Bar & Grill in the Lazy River Courtyard. For cocktails, there’s the choice of the Atomic Tonic Poolside Bar, where you can work on your Florida tan whilst sipping your mojito, or the Sizzle Lobby Bar where you can indulge in some shameless people watching and selfies. Guestrooms are located in long, narrow buildings punctuated by feature nodes that circulate guest traffic. With 900
family suites and an equal number of double queen guest rooms, Daroff adds “We approached this part of the design as though we were designing staterooms on a cruise ship, every inch had to count”. The architecture (which includes carefully integrated catwalks, punctured roof projections, pylon stair towers, mesh balcony railings, carefully coiffured gardens, and prominent signage) is characteristic of the many post-war resort hotels, such as The Americana, Starlight, Thunderbird and Castaway. Plastic laminate and wooden-edged surfaces complimented by mid-century furniture and a palette of oranges and blues, provide a distinct 1950s groove. “There is a fabulous kitchenette that feels like it has been magically transported from the stage set of I Love Lucy,” Daroff observes of each of the guest rooms. Opened in 2014, The Cabana Bay Beach Resort blends retro design with affordability and fun. Nostalgic shuttle buses whisk guests away to the local Universal Theme Parks for fun family days and fantasy night life. The Cabana provides a perfect spot for your family vacation or the ultimate getaway for any retro enthusiast. Head back in time for some Americana fun in the Florida sun. For more information, check out www.loewshotels.com/cabana-bay-hotel
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“
It’s a lovely, light, airy, mid-century modern inspired oasis that we are so fortunate to have right here in central Florida. There is so much constant progress and change going on all around us. I applaud this gorgeous homage to classic Americana and the inventiveness and creativity of the Atomic Era. PIN UP 60 – RiaADORE Von Strudel
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KITTEN LE BOW photography Cam Attree – Nylon Riot Photography makeup Daniel Tann hair Eliza Gibson styling Kitten Le Bow
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Pin Up!
The Movie
THE FIRST FILM ABOUT THE PIN UP SUBCULTURE WORDS BY URLA HILL
O
ne might ask how the lives of an award-winning documentarian, a distinguished academic, and a renowned pin up photographer became intertwined. Late last year, pin up fans found Kathleen Ryan, Maria Buszek, and Mitzi Valenzuela’s diverse talents and shared passions intersected in the 90-minute documentary, Pin Up! The Movie.
also get a glimpse of the lives of several contemporary pin up models, including Ashleeta Beauchamp, Delicious Ruckus, Sydney Ralston, and B. Sinclair, and share in the joy and difficulties faced inside and outside the retro ring. But it is definitely not all bullet bras, girdles and wiggle skirts.
No, this is not a remake of the 1944 Technicolor classic Pin Up Girl (the Twentieth-Century Fox film that followed the romance of a singing and dancing stenographer and a Navy hero, and showed that iconic photograph of Betty Grable in a onepiece, peering over her shoulder). Pin Up! The Movie is the first ever film to explore the vibrant and growing subculture that is pin up.
“When I initially started, I was not sure I was going to find women who were these self-described feminists,” said Ryan, the film’s director. But to her surprise, “I found the pin up culture to be celebratory in the diversity of womanhood. There was not one look, or one way, and there was this idea that there was strength and power in womanhood; as well as a recognition from within to make sure we have opportunities and abilities, and that falls within the history of feminism.”
across the country to work in factories and aid America’s war effort. One image in particular appeared on the cover of an autobiography written by Helen Gilbert, a woman she interviewed for her WAVES dissertation and film project. The cover of Gilbert’s book, “Okay, GirlsMan Your Bunks!” Tales from the Life of a WWII Navy WAVE,” features a picture in which several women are shown donning bras and panties while lying on a beach. Ryan was given several other snapshots in which women were experimenting with the do-it-yourself pin up poses, but could not explain the pin up phenomenon academically. Then she came across Buszek’s book, Pin-Up Grrrls: Feminism, Sexuality, Popular Culture, and the two ended up collaborating on Pin Up! The Movie.
It follows a group of pin up models in competition for the Miss 1940s White Christmas Ball pageant in Denver, Colorado, and a second group of pin ups in and around Los Angeles, California, who are seeking the opportunity to appear in a magazine spread for the first time. Viewers
Ryan’s initial interest in women from the 1940s began with her mother, Mary Marovich Ryan, who served as a Naval WAVE (Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service) during WWII. She began examining images illustrating the lifestyle of these young women who had moved to cities
Throughout the documentary, Buszek, currently an Associate Professor of Art History at the University of Colorado, interjects with commentary on the young women who went to work during the Second World War, who began reading Esquire Magazine, took themselves out to the movies, and
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ROCKWELL DEVIL photography Mitzi & Co. Photography Rockwell leads the Pin Up Beauty Academy seen in the film.
“
When I initially started, I was not sure I was going to find women who were these selfdescribed feminists... [but] I found the pin-up culture to be celebratory in the diversity of womanhood. There was not one look, or one way, and there was this idea that there was strength and power in ADORE PIN UP 65 womanhood.
Pictured: (Left) The Pin Up! The Movie world premiere in Los Angeles. From left: Director Kathleen Ryan, Photographer Mitzi Valenzuela, Pin Up Little Bit, and Erika Vaughn. (Right) Behind the scenes of the Pin Up Beauty Academy, as seen in Pin Up! The Movie. Photo by Mitzi Valenzuela.
fought for their independence. “What women were asked to do during World War II helped spur the feminist movement,” said Buszek, whose research traces the feminist history
“ After the war, these women were told to go home, get married, and have babies. But by the 1960s, mothers were encouraging their daughters to go out into the world, as they were deserving of something better, something more.
”
of the pin up girl back to the 1800s. “Though many women joined the military for the war effort, many young women stayed on the home front where they went to work in urban centers and found sexual freedom.” “After the war,” continued Buszek, “these women were told to go home, get married, and have babies. But by the 1960s, mothers were encouraging their daughters to go out into the world, as they were deserving of something better, something more.” Today’s pin ups continue to carve out a niche for themselves by not allowing the expectations of society to belittle the images they have of themselves. Pin Up! made its first appearance in California at the Woman Up Independent Film Festival, in conjunction with the Big House Los Angeles Entertainment Festival in November 2015. There it garnered ‘Best Documentary’ in its division. It has also shown at the Albuquerque Film Festival in New Mexico, and the CinErotic Film Festival at The Dirty Show, in Detroit, Michigan, this year. It will continue its trek by appearing at the Ethnografilm Festival, which takes
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place on March 31 to April 2nd in Paris, France; the Palm Beach International Film Festival on April 9th and 13th in Florida; and the 1940s Ball Weekender’s ‘Matinee and Mimosas’, in Boulder, Colorado, on June 19. The film will also be represented at Tom Ingram’s Viva Las Vegas Festival in Nevada in April, where women who appeared in the documentary will host a meet and greet. Though you may have missed your chance to participate in Ryan’s Pin Up! The Movie, it is not too late to participate in the interactive online documentary that will be launched in late 2016. Ryan describes the project as an online video game about pin ups, and plans to use interactive content to introduce and explore indepth stories not shown in the film. “So much of this culture didn’t make it into the film, just because of time constraints, and I won’t have those sorts of constraints online,” said Ryan, who studies the transformation of story telling through new media. “Now we’ll be able to include more people, including pin ups from around the globe, and demonstrate the international scope of the pin up.” For more information on Pin Up! The Movie and the interactive online documentary, check out Pinupthemovie.com.
photography Iman Woods model Dapper Dan Doll
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MISS V photography Victor Devilbliss muah Making Faces Professional Makeup
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H O L LY H A R LOT T photography Vestige Photography muah Sarah London set by Miss Shermette
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