Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine June, July 2009 by Adria Airways

VAŠ BREZPLAČNI IZVOD - YOUR PERSONAL COPY

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine junij, julij - June, July 2009

Piloti Pilots

Andrej Trampuž Madrid

Maribor Mariborske kavarne • Cafés of Maribor Mariborska arhitekta Fritz Friedriger in Max Czeike • Maribor Architects Fritz Friedriger & Max Czeike Mariborsko Pohorje • The Maribor Pohorje

Jadralno letalstvo • Gliding Ciril Križnar Med izolskimi ribiči • Fishermen of Izola Idrska planina Japonska • Japan

Vsebina/Contents 30

Adrijin potnik / Adria Passenger

Andrej Trampuž Andrej Trampuž Gregor Bulc

Madrid

Moja ljubezenska zgodba My Love Story Irene Sánchez

Janez Pukšič

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Revija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways flights.

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Izdajatelj/Published: Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d. Adria Airways The Airline of Slovenia Kuzmičeva 7, 1000 Ljubljana Uredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc Bukovec Tel / Phone + 386 1 369 1290 E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.si Urednica / Edited by: Meta Krese Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka Dvoršak Tel / Phone + 386 1 369 1259 E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si Oblikovanje in AD /Design and AD: LUKS Studio Prevod /Translated by: Amidas Lektorica/Language editing: Vera Samohod Fotoliti /Lithography: Schwarz d.o.o. Tisk /Printed by: Schwarz d.o.o.

ISSN 1318-0789

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo. The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publ isher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. Brezplačen izvod /Your personal copy

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maribor

V Mariboru kavarne nikoli ne samevajo The Many Cafés of Maribor David Šalamun

Zamolčana in pozabljena mariborska arhitekta Fritz Friedriger in Max Czeike Two Forgotten Maribor Architects: Fritz Friedriger & Max Czeike

Janez Lombergar

Mariborsko Pohorje/The Maribor Pohorje

Najbližje letenju Closest Thing to Flying

Duša Podbevšek–Bedrač

Jadralno letalstvo/Gliding

Niko Slana

Usode legendarnega Cirila Križnarja The Destinies of the Legendary Ciril Križnar

Divjecesarska doživetja Wild Emperor Adventures Niko Slana

Med izolskimi ribiči/Fishermen of Izola

Sveža riba je še vedno najboljša Fresh Fish is Still the Best Andrej Crček

Fonda

Portoroški ribogojni rezervat Portorož Fish-farming Reserve Andrej Crček

Med pomorskimi piloti/Maritime Pilots

Zgodovina pilotov in mornarjev je enako dolga As Long as There Have Been Mariners, There Have Been Pilots Andrej Crček

Dan na primorski planini

Japonska/Japan

A Day on the Mountain Mastures of Primorska Marjan Žiberna

Zabavna ulična moda vnukov in vnukinj The Bizarre Street Fashion of Japan's Grandchildren Iztok Bončina

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{ Adria Airways }

Potovati že, samo s kom? Besedilo: Marija Haralovič

Ilustracije: Maja Babič Košir

»Najdalje vidi galeb, ki leti najvišje.« (Richard Bach: Jonatan Livingston Galeb)

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andanes je postalo potovanje z letali dostopno najširšemu krogu ljudi. Število potnikov raste iz leta v leto, prav tako tudi ponudnikov letalskih storitev. Na splošno bi lahko rekli, da ločujemo med rednimi oz. tako imenovanimi tradicionalnimi letalskimi prevozniki in ponudniki nizkocenonovnih letov. Pri odločitvi, s katerim od prevoznikov bomo leteli, je lahko cena letalske vozovnice odločujoč dejavnik. Vendar pa velja biti pri tem previden in pri primerjavi upoštevati tudi niz dejavnikov, ki na prvi pogled morda niso vidni, na koncu pa pripomorejo k precej drugačni končni ceni vozovnice, kot je bilo videti na prvi pogled. Pa pojdimo lepo po vrsti in si oglejmo nekaj teh razlik. Tradicionalni prevozniki večinoma letijo na glavna letališča posameznih mest, kjer so dobre prometne povezave, nizkocenovni pa največkrat na obrobna letališča, kjer je javni prevoz praviloma slabo organiziran. Morda je cena letalske vozovnice pri nizkocenovnem prevozniku nižja, vendar lahko ostali stroški ter poraba časa zaradi manj primernega voznega reda in oddaljenosti letališča osnovno ceno povišajo, da se ta približa tisti, ki bi jo plačali, če bi se odločili za tradicionalnega prevoznika. Nizkocenovni prevozniki ponujajo storitev prevoza na direktnem letu. Če želimo potovati na zaporednih letih, moramo kupiti več vozovnic in vsaka šteje za ločeno pogodbo. Kadar poteka letenje po voznem redu, je vse lepo in prav. Težave nastopijo, če izgubimo zvezo z naslednjim letom. Nizkocenovni prevozniki praviloma ne poskrbijo za potnike v primeru odpovedi letov ali zamud. Potniki so prepuščen svoji iznajdljivosti. Povsem drugače poteka potovanje s tradicionalnimi prevozniki, ki nudijo storitev zaporednih prevozov z eno samo vozovnico. V primeru odpovedi in zastojev poskrbijo, da potnik prispe do namembnega kraja z drugim letom ali drugim prevoznim sredstvom. Potniki s tem nimajo nobenih dodatnih stroškov, v določenih primerih so upravičeni tudi do ustreznega denarne-

ga nadomestila. Ti letalski prevozniki se tudi povezujejo v združenja, ki jim omogočajo ponudbo storitve prevozov na zaporednih letih v kombinaciji s partnersko letalsko družbo. Tradicionalni prevozniki razlikujejo med ponudbo cen za poslovne in turistične namene. Višina cene je odvisna od načrtovane dolžine bivanja v kraju, kamor potujemo, in od časa nakupa vozovnice. Najdražje so vozovnice za odhod in povratek v istem dnevu ali z eno nočitvijo, ki omogočajo tudi spremembe datumov potovanja brez doplačila. Cenejše so vozovnice z dvema ali tremi nočitvami ali vozovnice, ki so kupljene v predprodaji; lete omogočajo spremembe datumov potovanja z doplačilom. Za potnike prvega in poslovnega razreda imajo na letališču posebna okenca za prijavo na let, salon za čakanje na let, večjo količino brezplačne prtljage, raznoliko hrano in pijačo, bolj udobne sedeže in večjo medsedežno razdaljo. Poslovni potniki praviloma najbolj cenijo čas, zato je zanje zelo pomembna pogostnost letenja na progi, točnost poletov in dostopnost do sedežev ter možnost kombinacije prevozov z drugimi prevozniki. Načrt potovanja pogosto spreminjajo tik pred zdajci, zato je pomembno, da je možno brez doplačila spreminjati datume potovanja. Ugodnosti članstva v programih zvestobe so tudi ene izmed dejavnikov, zakaj potniki izberejo lete določenega prevoznika oziroma združenja. Potnikom v ekonomskem razredu so na voljo različne tarife, ki se razlikujejo po višini in pogojih. Pri tradicionalnih prevoznikih vključuje cena praviloma 20 kg brezplačne prtljage, možnost vnaprejšnje rezervacije sedeža, brezplačno pijačo, hrano in časopise na letalu. Pri nizkocenovnih prevoznikih pa vse to večinoma ni všteto v ceno, ampak se plača posebej. Začeli smo, pa še zaključimo z Jonatanom Livingstonom Galebom: »Letenje je veliko več kot samo to, da pofrfotavaš s kraja na kraj.«

Travel, Yes,

But With Whom? Text: Marija Haralovič

Illustrations: Maja Babič Košir

“The gull sees farthest who flies highest.” (Richard Bach: Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

oday, air travel has become accessible to a very large circle of people. The number of air passengers is growing from year to year, as is the number of carriers. In general terms we can say that we distinguish between “traditional” airlines and “low-cost” airlines. When deciding what airline to fly with, the price of the ticket can be a deciding factor. But it is worth being cautious here and taking into account a series of other factors that, though they may not be visible at first glance, can end up contributing to a final price that is quite a lot higher than we originally thought.

But let’s start at the beginning and look at some of these differences: Traditional carriers for the most part fly to principal airports with good transport connections, whereas low-cost carriers mainly fly to secondary airports where public transport tends to be poorly organised. The low-cost carrier may offer lower ticket prices, but other costs and the loss of time due to a less convenient timetable and the distance of the airport from the city have the effect of increasing the basic price, so that it approaches the price we would have paid if we had chosen a traditional airline. Low-cost carriers offer direct flights with the emphasis on point-topoint service. If your journey involves consecutive flights, you have to buy a ticket for each leg of the journey and each ticket is treated as a separate contract. This is no problem as long as flights are on time. The difficulties arise when you miss a connection. Low-cost carriers do not as a rule make any provision for passengers in the case of flight cancellations and delays. Passengers are left to their own devices. The situation changes entirely when you travel with traditional airlines, who offer consecutive flights on a single ticket. In the case of cancellations and delays, they ensure that passengers are put on another flight to their destination or offered an alternative means of transport. Passengers incur no extra costs and in some cases they are entitled to an appropriate amount of compensation. Airlines of this type also join together to form alliances which enable them to offer services and connections in combination with a partner airline. Traditional airlines differentiate between business and tourist travel. Prices depend on the planned length of stay at the destination and on when the ticket is purchased. Same-day or following-day return tickets that allow you to change the dates of travel without charge are the most expensive. Tickets involving a stay of two or three nights and tickets booked in advance are cheaper. These allow you to change your dates of travel but you will be charged for this. Passengers in first class and business class have special check-in desks at the airport, the use of an airport lounge, a larger free baggage allowance, a choice of food and beverages, more comfortable seats and more space between seats. In the case of business travellers, time is usually the most important factor, and therefore the frequency of flights on a given route, punctuality, seat availability and the possibility of combining flights with other carriers are of the utmost importance. Travel plans often change at the last minute, and therefore the ability to change tickets without paying a fee is also important. The advantages of loyalty programme membership are another of the reasons why passengers choose a particular airline or alliance. Economy class passengers can choose from a range of different tariffs with different conditions. In the case of traditional airlines, the price generally includes a 20 kg free baggage allowance, the possibility of booking a seat in advance, and a free drink, food and newspapers aboard the aircraft. In the case of low-cost carriers, these services are not as a rule included in the price but are charged separately. Let us end as we began, with Jonathan Livingston Seagull: There’s so much more to flying than just flapping around from place to place!

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Maribor ( 41 )

{ Maribor }

V Mariboru kavarne nikoli ne samevajo Besedilo: David Šalamun

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Fotografije: Borut Krajnc

o dolgih urah, ki jih prebijem v stanovanju, se vedno veselim obiska v kavarni. Res je, da se moram včasih prav prisiliti, da se odpravim v kavarno – samo zato, da se ne zaprem v svoj

kotiček –, potem pa uživam ob kavi in gledam, kaj se dogaja okrog mene. Zmeraj, kjerkoli že sem, se mi zdi kavarna dobra točka za opazovanje. Tam prepoznam utrip predela mesta, v katerem sem: in v Mariboru vsekakor prepoznaš razliko, če sediš v Centru, Melju, Magdaleni ali pa na Teznu.

ovezava Maribora z Dunajem je bila od nekdaj prisotna. In tudi vlaki, ki so na poti iz Trsta na Dunaj v Mariboru polnili svoje kotle z vodo, so v tem mestu pustili sled. Priča tega časa je na primer železničarska kolonija, stanovanjsko naselje, zgrajeno v šestdesetih letih 19. stoletja za delavce železniških delavnic. Trst in Dunaj, dve prestolnici kave, pa sta vplivala na mariborsko gostilniško kulturo. Tako se je v mestu ustalila kavarniška kultura. V dvajsetih letih prejšnjega stoletja so bile kavarne odprte do petih ali šestih zjutraj. Bile so v dunajskem stilu. Imeli so časopise v različnih jezikih in tam se je odvijala živahna socialna komunikacija. To je bilo mesto, kjer so si izmenjavali informacije. Tako, kot je še danes. Od nekdanjih znamenitih kavarn se je, recimo, obdržala Astoria, čeprav se je njen obraz v teh letih popolnoma spremenil. Ne samo

'dunajske', v mestu so se ustalile tudi 'primorske' kavarne, ki so vabile goste z imeni, kot je Jadran. V njih so stregli dalmatinska vina in v mesto so prinesle mediteransko vzdušje. Danes je svet večji in tudi vplivi so različnejši. Nekatere kavarne, kot Macchiato, imajo še vedno mediteransko zveneče ime. Ko pa sediš v Čajeku, lahko mimogrede pozabiš, da si v Mariboru. Lahko bi bil tudi v kakšni angleški čajnici. V plesni šoli z bifejem ti natakar postreže s turško ali arabsko kavo, takšno, kot si jo spoznal na orientu. Ozkim ulicah starega dela mesta dajejo življenje prav kavarne. Nikoli niso prazne. Na Slovenski ulici, Poštni ulici ali pa ob Lentu se vrstijo ena poleg druge. V času festivalov so tako polne, da komajda najdeš prazen prostor. Če imaš srečo, potem uživaš ob sladici, prebiranju časopisja in literature. In seveda ob klepetu. Ob svojem ali pa ob tistem, ki ga slišiš pri sosednji mizi.

Park kavarna na razglednici približno leta 1930 (arhitekt Max Czeike 1922), po vojni pregrajena v Akvarij (Jože Požauko, približno leta 1950), arhiv Primoža Premzla/ Park Coffeehouse on a postcard from circa 1930 (designed by Max Czeike in 1922). Converted into the Aquarium after the war (Jože Požauko, circa 1950), Primož Premzl archive

After spending hours cooped up in my flat, I am always happy to go out to a café. It’s true: sometimes I have to force myself to get up and go out, just so as not to stay shut up in my own little den, but once I’m in the café I enjoy sitting over a coffee and watching what is going on around me. Wherever I am, a café has always seemed to me a good observation point. It is there that I recognise the pulse of whatever part of the city I find myself in: and in Maribor you immediately notice the difference between the Center, Melje, Magdalena and Tezno districts.

T The Many Cafés of Maribor Text: David Šalamun

Photography: Borut Krajnc

he connection between Maribor and Vienna goes back a long way. The trains that used to stop in Maribor to refill their boilers en route from Trieste to Maribor have also left their mark on the city. One remnant of that age is the railwaymen’s colony, a residential district built in the 1860s for the workers from the railway workshops. Trieste and Vienna, both European capitals of coffee, also had an influence on Maribor’s social customs. The result was that a café culture established itself in the city. In the 1920s cafés stayed open until five or six o’clock in the morning. They were in the Viennese style. They had newspapers in several languages and hummed with lively social communication. The café was a place where information was exchanged. Just as it is today. Some of the famous old cafés still survive. The Astoria, for example, although its appearance has changed completely in recent years. It was not only “Viennese” cafés that established themselves in the city. There were also cafés of the “Mediterranean” type, attracting their clientele with names like Jadran (“Adriatic”). These establishments served wines from Dalmatia and brought a Mediterranean atmosphere to the city. Today the world is bigger and influences are more varied. Some cafés, such as the Macchiato, still have Mediterranean-sounding names. But when you take a seat in the Čajek, you can easily forget that you are in Maribor. You could be in an English tearoom. Or there is the café attached to a dance school, where the waiter serves you the same Turkish or Arabic coffee you have drunk in the Middle East. The cafés bring life to the narrow streets of the Old Town. They are never empty. On Slovenska Ulica, Poštna Ulica and the Lent embankment, the cafés stand one next to the other. During the festival season they are so full that it is hard to find a seat. But if you are lucky, you can enjoy a pastry and an idle browse through newspapers or a book. And of course a chat. Your own or the one taking place at the next table.

{ Maribor }

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{ Maribor } Čajek

Simona Kopinšek

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o sem pred desetimi leti prišla v Maribor s podeželske in idilične Donačke Gore, se mi je razprl svet. Tam pod triglavo goro sem sanjala o mestu, kjer živijo in se srečujejo pesniki in slikarji. Prva kavarna, kjer sem ob kavi in čaju srkala prve verze v mestu in o njem, je bila Čajek, tu pri Astoriji. Danes v zgornjem prostoru čajnice ni več pianina, na katerega je včasih igral boemski Matej. A v mojih pesmih in sanjavih vračanjih v podoživljanje se pianino še sliši in vidi. Najgloblja sanja, ki jo imam, pa je prav ta, da obstaja kavarna, pred katero pesniki mimoidoče pozdravljamo v verzih. In to je čajnica. V nedeljo zvečer ali v ponedeljek zjutraj ob devetih, ko se sonce toplo plazi čez streho mariborskega gradu in srkne z mano kavo ali čaj. Rada posedim za to mizo v kotu, vajeno pesmi, smeha golobom in vrabcem, ki pobirajo sveže drobtine hrustljavih rogljičev. Tudi zato je Maribor najlepše mesto na svetu. Je moj mali Pariz, kjer se lahko kadarkoli skrijem ali najdem, kar želim. Pesem ob jutranji kavi in klepetanje z življenjem vsak dan znova. Kajti Čajek je tudi odlična postaja za čakanje na klepet z mimoidočim nekom.«

“W

hen I came to Maribor ten years ago from rural and idyllic Donačka Gora, the world opened up before me. There, beneath the triple summit of the mountain, I had dreamed about the city where poets and painters live and meet. The first café in the city where I drank coffee and tea, and drank in verses about the city, was Čajek, here by the Astoria. Today the upright piano – that bohemian Matej would sometimes play – is gone from the upstairs room. But in my poems and daydreams of the past, I can still hear and see that piano. My secret dream is of a café in front of which we poets greet passers-by in verse. And that is what this tea house is. On Sunday evenings, or at nine o’clock on Monday mornings, when the warm sun creeps across the roof of Maribor Castle and sips coffee or tea with me. I like to sit at this table in the corner, used to poetry and laughter, with the pigeons and sparrows pecking at the fresh crumbs of crumbly, flaky croissants. That is another reason why Maribor is the most beautiful city in the world. It is my little Paris, where I can hide whenever I want to, or find whatever I wish. A poem over a morning cup of coffee and a chat with life, every day afresh. Because the Čajek is also a very good place to wait for a chat with someone passing by.”

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{ Maribor }

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Čajek

Andrej Brvar, pesnik/poet

ndrej Brvar pravi, da so dnevi, ko prideš popolnoma uničen v službo. »Sesut si ves čas, dokler ne prideš do svoje kave.« Pri njem je to okrog enajstih. Takrat ponavadi zaide v čajnico in kavarno Čajek ali pa tudi v Astorio. Začneš piti kavo. Njena toplota se širi proti tvojemu obrazu; poslušaš, kaj vse se okrog tebe pogovarjajo. »Takrat začutiš, kako ti odpada maska, kako se lušči s tvojega obraza. Lica se ti preprosto razširijo v nasmeh tudi zato, ker vidiš, da tvoji problemi niso samo tvoji, ampak so nekaj popolnoma normalnega.« In premaguješ jih tudi s kavo, je prepričan pesnik Brvar.

ndrej Brvar says that there are days when one gets to work utterly destroyed. “You are a mess until you have your coffee,” he says. In his case this is at around eleven o'clock. He usually makes his way to the Čajek tea and coffee house or Astoria. You start to drink your coffee. Its warmth spreads towards your face; you listen to what the people around you are saying. “You feel your mask falling off, you feel it peeling from your face. Your cheeks can't help widening into a smile, because you see that you are not the only one with problems and that your problems are something perfectly normal.” And coffee is one way to beat them, believes Brvar.

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Macchiato

Zmago Jeraj, slikar/painter

mago Jeraj uporablja atelje striktno za delovni prostor, zato nima tam ničesar, s čimer bi lahko postregel obiskovalcem. »Če se zagovorimo, je še najboljše, da jih povabim kar v bližnjo kavarnico Macchiato,« je prepričan. Kavarna je nova, neobičajna in je del večjega stanovanjskega kompleksa Forum. Vendar je stara zgradba, ki se je morala Forumu umakniti, ostala obeležena na Jerajevi sliki. Njena navzočnost je podana skozi njeno odsotnost in je pravzaprav zrisava njenega profila, ostanka na sosednji zgradbi, ki se je je včasih držala.

mago Jeraj uses his studio strictly as a place to work, so he keeps nothing there to offer visitors. “If we get talking, the best thing is for me to invite them to my local café, the Macchiato,” he explains. The café is new and unusual, and part of the Forum residential complex. But a record of the old building that had to make way for the Forum is preserved in one of Jeraj’s paintings. Its presence is suggested by its absence, and its profile can actually still be seen on the building next door that once stood next to it.

{ Maribor }

{ Maribor } Zahir

Melita Forstnerič Hajnšek,

novinarka Večera/Večer journalist

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ekaj hiš stran od moje časopisne hiše, kjer se proti Dravi spusti Svetozarevska, tista ulica, ki so jo hoteli pred leti preimenovati v Večerovo, so lani odprli kavarnico z vabljivim orientalskim imenom Zahir. V arabščini pomeni nekaj, česar ni mogoče spregledati, kar po prvem srečanju zleze pod kožo. Res je okus Zahirjeve kave zapeljiv in zvoki bližnje orientalske šole zazibljejo v daljne ritme. Je bila moja zadnja kava tam turška? Pomnim le okus po ingverju in mandljih. Ko od Drave zapihlja navzgor na Zahirjev vrt, se spomnim Zlate Vokač in njenih Marpurgov in očetovih verzov in prve prave turške kave iz džezvice na Baščaršiji s tremi kockicami sladkorja in ratlukom. Vse se pomeša v meni in zato ta pogled na Dravo nenehno ponavljam. In Zahir je krasno pribežališče. Res ga ni več mogoče spregledati. Pa sploh nisem kavarniška generacija. Nam so jih ukinjali drugo za drugo, le še v daljnem spominu so ostajali livrirani natakarji iz nekdanje Astorije. Iz časov, ko še niso dajali hrane na študentske bone. Stojala za časopise in velik črn klavir so še bili del inventarja. Ampak to je že neka čisto druga zgodba.«

“A

few buildings away from the offices of my newspaper, where Svetozarevska, the street that years ago they wanted to rename Večerova (‘Večer Street’), descends towards the river Drava, a café with the enticing oriental name of ‘Zahir’ opened last year. In Arabic zahir means something impossible to overlook, something which gets under your skin after the first encounter. And it is true that the flavour of the Zahir’s coffee is seductive, and that the sounds from the nearby oriental dance studio lull you with their rhythms from far away. Was my last coffee there Turkish? I only remember a flavour of ginger and almonds. When the breeze blows gently up from the Drava into the Zahir’s garden, I remember Zlata Vokač and her novel The Marpurgs, and my father’s poems, and my first real Turkish coffee from a dzhezva or ibrik in Sarajevo’s Baščaršija quarter, with three lumps of sugar and Turkish Delight. All of this is mixed up in me, and that is why I keep returning to this view of the Drava. And the Zahir is a great refuge. And something that, for me at least, is ‘impossible to overlook’. I am not really part of the coffeehouse generation at all. The old coffeehouses have closed down, one by one, and the liveried waiters at the old Astoria are merely a distant memory. From the days before they started serving food in exchange for student meal coupons. Racks for newspapers and a big black piano were still part of the furniture. But that is another story entirely.”

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{ Maribor }

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Huda kava

Vladimir Rukavina,

direktor Narodnega doma Maribor/General Manager of Narodni dom Maribor

»O

dkar v Mariboru ni več legendarne Gicove čajnice in kavarne, najraje zahajam k ’Hudi kavi’, majhni kavarnici na Poštni ulici. Pa ne le zato, ker se tam zbira dosti mladih in me to posledično naredi mlajšega. Tja grem predvsem zaradi navihane natakarice Lele, ki me s svojimi dovtipi, neposrednostjo in kleno prekmurščino zmeraj spravi v dobro voljo. Mislim, da je ona pravi zaščitni znak te kavarne in da tja veliko gostov hodi ravno zaradi nje. Pa še dobro kavo zna skuhati! Zraven pa obvezna cigareta; če ni marlbora, Lela potoži, da imajo samo galojzes žűte (rumeni gaulouises).«

“S

ince Maribor lost the legendary GIC tearoom and café, my favourite café has become Huda Kava, a small café on Poštna Ulica. And not only because it is usually full of young people, which makes me feel younger. The main reason I go there is because of the barmaid Lela, whose jokes, directness and pithy Prekmurian dialect always put me in a good mood. For me, she is the café’s trademark, and I think a lot of customers go there just because of her. She also makes good coffee! Which of course has to be accompanied by a cigarette: and if they haven’t got Marlboro, Lela complains in dialect that they’ve only got ‘Galojzes žűte’ (Gauloises in the yellow packet).”

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KiBar

Peter Tomaž Dobrila

iBar, kibernetična kavarna Multimedijskega centra KIBLA, je 'unicum' med prostori, saj mi 'pro bono' nudi okolje, ki ga potrebujem tako za komunikacijo kot tudi za delo: velikost in višino, brezžični in žični dostop do medmrežja, razne umetniške programe, razstave, tudi v prostoru za umetnost KiBela, in udobje ter širok izbor tiskanih medijev, tako časnikov in revij kot drugih publikacij, predvsem seveda knjig s področja družboslovja in humanistike, umetnosti in znanosti, in tudi tujo literaturo, ki jo zaobjema knjigarna Za:misel. Nedvomno je to najbolj zaseben javni prostor, kjer lahko srečate tuje in domače umetnice in umetnike vseh generacij in z vseh področij ustvarjanja in z njimi poklepetate ali pa zgolj meditirate, lahko pa pripeljete tudi svoje otroke in jih prepustite njihovi kreativnosti, medtem ko sestankujete. Njegov dnevni mir vas skrije pred večerom, ko se ob dogodkih razživi in vas brez težav povabi na zabavo z glavo in seveda tudi na ples.

iBar, the cybercafé of the KIBLA Multimedia Centre, is a one-off, since it offers me the environment I need both for communication and for work: size and height, wireless and cable Internet access, a variety of art programmes and exhibitions, some in the KiBela art space, comfort, and a wide choice of print media – newspapers and magazines and other publications, and above all of course the social sciences, humanities, art and science books, not to mention foreign literature, offered by the Za:misel bookshop. This is without a doubt the most private public space, a place where you can meet foreign and domestic artists of all generations and from all fields and chat with them or merely meditate. You can also bring your children and leave them to be creative while you are busy having meetings. Its daytime peace hides you from the evening, when things liven up and you can easily find yourself drawn into intellectual entertainments or even to dance.

{ Mariborsko Pohorje / The Maribor Pohorje } Start na 1050 metrih in cilj na 325 metrih nadmorske višine, dolžina 4000 metrov! To je najdaljša downhill proga v Sloveniji. Namenjena je vsem tistim, ki se jim po žilah pretaka adrenalin in želijo vedeti, kako dobro »obvladajo« svoje kolo. Na tem delu se tudi odvija svetovni pokal v gorskem kolesarjenju. Start at 1050 metres and finish at 325 metres above sea level, length of trail 4000 metres! This is the longest downhill route in Slovenia. It is designed for anyone with adrenaline pumping in their veins who wants to know just how well they can “control” their bike. This section is also the venue for the World Mountain Biking Championship.

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Najbližje letenju Besedilo in fotografije: Duša Podbevšek–Bedrač

se je naenkrat čisto – telo in duh. V neokrnjenem naravnem rezervatu na skrajnem vzhodu Alp – na Pohorju. Mogočni gozdovi, potoki, slapovi in jezera tvorijo čudovit svet narave, ki ponuja številne možnosti za sprostitev in imenitno počutje. Največji strnjeni gozdni kompleks daleč naokoli proizvaja velikanske količine kisika; pohorski gozdovi ga dajejo toliko, kolikor bi ga bilo potrebno za dvojno slovensko prebivalstvo skupaj z izseljenci. Med pogledom na zelenega orjaka, ki se dviga do tisoč metrov nadmorske višine nad štajersko metropolo Mariborom, marsikateremu popotniku zastane dih. Zato že od nekdaj to področje, ki je nekoč slovelo po oglarjih in v katerem so se skrivali škratje in babe črbabe, vabi v svoje okrilje tako avanturiste kot romantike, željne pohodništva, jahanja in gorskega kolesarjenja. Z višinskim poligonom privablja tiste, ki si želijo doseči vrtoglave podvige s premagovanjem lastnega strahu in hitrimi akcijami ter početi pač vse, kar povzroča intenzivno izločanje adrenalina.

Dan lahko začnemo s sproščeno ali pravo nordijsko hojo tudi do čudovitega slapa Šumnik v Pohorskem pragozdu, nedotaknjenem vse do današnjega časa. Ali do Črnega jezera, imenovanega tudi »črni biser«, obdanega z nizkimi borovci in mogočnimi smrekami. The day can begin with relaxed or proper Nordic walking, right up to the wonderful Šumnik waterfall in the Pohorje virgin forest, which has remained untouched to the present day. Or you can hike to Črno jezero, also known as the “black pearl”, which is decked with pines and mighty spruces.

Closest Thing to Flying Text and photography: Duša Podbevšek–Bedrač

verything is suddenly clear – body and mind. In the unspoilt nature reserve on the eastern margin of the Alps – on the Pohorje. Mighty forests, streams, waterfalls and lakes create a wonderful world of nature, offering countless possibilities for relaxation and a

wonderful sense of wellbeing. The biggest contiguous forest complex for miles around produces vast quantities of oxygen. The Pohorje forests produce enough oxygen for double the Slovenian population plus all those who have emigrated. Gazing at the green giant, which rises to a thousand metres above sea level and looks down on the metropolis of Maribor, many travellers stop to catch their breath. For this reason, from the earliest times this area, which was once famous for its charcoal makers and which harboured goblins and witches, lures both adventurers and romantics eager to hike, horse-ride or take out their mountain bikes. Its high altitude recreation areas also lure those seeking to perform vertiginous exploits by overcoming their own fear and reacting quickly, and in fact by doing everything that produces an intense adrenaline rush.

Na Trikotni jasi na nadmorski višini 580 metrov obiskovalci na višinskem poligonu – adrenalinskem parku – dosegajo vrtoglave podvige na orjaški gugalnici, stebru poguma, plezalni steni … Najbolj drzni adrenalinci se preizkušajo kar 14 metrov nad tlemi s hojo po mreži. At the Triangular Glade 580 metres above sea level, visitors to the altitude recreation area – or adrenaline park – can perform head-spinning exploits on the giant swing, the pillar of courage and climbing wall. The boldest thrill-seekers can test themselves 14 metres above the ground by walking on the net.

Po dva kilometra dolgem drznem spustu po ostrih zavojih v nepredvidljiva brezna in po hitrem delu, ki ima do 67-odstoten naklon, se človeku pri hitrosti do 40 kilometrov na uro nehote zasolzijo oči. Že pogled na progo Pohor JET s starta od Trikotne jase do cilja v Snežnem stadionu zagotavlja občutek – najbližje letenju. The two-kilometre audacious descent through sharp turns into a hidden abyss, and the fast flat section at speeds up to 40 kilometres and then the 67 percent incline tend to make your eyes water. Just a glance at the course of the Pohor JET, from the start at the Triangular Glade to the finish at the Snow Stadium, brings out that feeling – the closest thing to flying.

Pohorske kolesarske poti so speljane skozi gozdove, ki skrivajo ostanke nekdanjih glažut, arheološka nahajališča, samotne cerkvice in jezerca v skupni dolžini 200 kilometrov. Najbolj priljubljene so proge, ki imajo izhodišče na vrhu Mariborskega Pohorja s kolesarsko info točko in Garmin Test Centrom pri zgornji postaji Pohorske vzpenjače. Pravi raj za zahtevne kolesarje je proga, dolga kar 500 kilometrov, med Mariborskim Pohorjem, Roglo, Ribniškim Pohorjem in Kopami. The Pohorje cycle paths run through forests concealing the remains of early glassworks, archaeological sites, isolated churches and little lakes, covering a total length of 200 kilometres. The most popular trails are those that start at the top of the Maribor Pohorje, with its cycling information point and Garmin Test Centre at the upper station of the Pohorje funicular system. An absolute dream for demanding cyclists is the trail that runs a full 500 kilometres between the Maribor Pohorje, Rogla, Ribniško Pohorje and Kope.

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Jadralno letalstvo

Usode legendarnega ( 64 )

Cirila Križnarja (1934–1968)

akaj smo med množico jadralcev, ki so poklicno leteli ali še vedno letijo v Adrii Airways, izbrali prav Cirila Križnarja in mu nadeli avreolo legende? V slovenski letalski družbi

so bili prav tako karizmatični jadralci Franček Mordej, Vine Žakelj, Franc Štrukelj, tudi Marjan Bizjan je začel med njimi, še nedavno sta letela Janez Pintar in Miha Thaler, še zmeraj pa uspešno tekmujejo Aleš Maraž, Igor Kolarič, Željko Roškar in Sebastjan Ramšak. A Ciko, kot so mu pravili prijatelji, je imel še posebej zanimivo letalsko otroštvo, njegova letalska pot je bila vzpenjajoča, resda kratka, a razburkana. V življenju je izbiral svoje poti. Besedilo: Niko Slana foto: Ivan Sajevic

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{ Jadralno letalstvo }

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orda bi jo moral popisati pisatelj Danilo Kiš v Enciklopediji mrtvih; njegovo življenje je bilo kot pripoved v Mojstru in Margareti, zdi se, da je imel pri Ciku prste vmes Woland, ki v Mojstru in Margareti pooseblja hudiča. Morda mu je usoda želela to povedati že takrat, ko so ga kratkohlačnika starši peljali na predstavo opere Carmen. Tudi Bizetova ciganka je imela, kot zatrjujejo poznavalci libreta, enega samega gospodarja – usodo. Mulčka iz Guncelj je zanimalo smučanje, predvsem pa smučarski skoki, saj je imel skakalnico skoraj na domačem dvorišču. A privlačnost je zaslutil v šentviškem letalskem modelarskem krožku, še posebno, ko so prek zime uspešno obnovili podarjenega vrabca. Radodarni mestni jadralni konkurenti pa so se premislili in fantom letalo, še preden so ga ti preizkusili, na tihem ukradli. Ciko se je razjezil, šel je na letališče v Polju, se vpisal v aeroklub in začel leteti, pa čeprav je bil uradno še premlad. O svoji starosti se je zlagal. Takrat mu je usoda prvič požugala. Z vrabcem je krepko udaril ob tla, nekaj dni preživel v bolnici in v zdravilišču na Rakitni. Čim se je pozdravil, je z letenjem nadaljeval, a se je kasneje bal strogih zdravniških pregledov, mladostni udarec ob tla pa mu je očitno pustil nekaj posledic na sluhu. Njegovi letalski mentorji v Ljubljani so ugotovili, da je iz pravega testa, kmalu so ga postavili na odgovorno mesto – na sedež motornega vitla – in kmalu je deloval kot učitelj jadralnega letenja. V svojem kratkem klubskem obdobju je preskakoval po tri stopnice in mnogi, precej starejši fantje so se samo čudili. Tudi za akrobacije je imel pravo roko, naučil se jih je v skupini vrstnikov pod mentorsko taktirko Jožeta Dolinarja in Branka Žigerja, ki sta jih hkrati učila akrobatskega letenja na jadralni mački in motornem bikerju. Še danes se spominjajo njegovih akrobatskih avantur – z mačko je, denimo, na mitingih letel na hrbtu, kakšen meter nad tlemi, nato pa potegnil čez hangar in naslednji trenutek pristal. Oče obrtnik, ki je bil umetniško navdahnjen – vse sinove in hčere je ovekovečil z oljem na platno, doma so igrali na klavir, med vojno je za Savo starejše potomce naučil plavati –, je moral kmalu po vojni za vedno zapustiti veliko družino. Za Križnarjeve se je začel boj za preživetje in tako kot vsi mladi člani družine je moral tudi on nabirati borovnice in gobe. Zaslužiti je bilo treba nekaj cvenka za šolske knjige. Tudi tu se skriva ključ za razumevanje njegovih kasnejših ravnanj, denimo, tvegane službe v Jemnu. Opravil je srednjo poklicno strojno šolo, kaj hitro se je zaposlil v Litostroju, kmalu je postal upravnik aerokluba v Murski Soboti, mimogrede še inšpektor za motorno letenje pri slovenski letalski zvezi (ZLOS), spotoma se je vpisal na fakulteto za strojništvo. Ko je profesor na fakulteti ugotovil, da prijateljuje z njegovo hčerjo, mu je dal vedeti, da to zanj ne bo dobro, a Ciko si za študij tako ali tako ni vzel časa. Vemo, da je zbiral denar za vespo, da bi ugajal dekletu in staršem, a ko so mu odprli vrata v Adrii Airways, je pozabil na profesorja in njegove kotle. Opravil je izpit za kopilota na DC-6. Po krizi v Adrii Airways se je skupina pilotov skupaj z letali DC-6 preselila v jemensko letalsko družbo Basco Airline. Križnarja in Sajevica, ki sta se skupini pridružila zadnja, so angažirali za letenje na DC-3 in za

prevoze, ki so bili tudi vojaško obarvani. Vemo, da so njuno letalo pred pristankom v Ataku sestrelili nasprotniki režima, za katerega sta delala, a kaj bolj natančnega o njuni usodi ne vemo. Avgusta lani je minilo 40 let, odkar se je za njima izgubila sled. V Sloveniji ni bilo nikogar, ki bi se spomnil na njegovo bivanje in športne uspehe. Brez lažnega poveličevanja lahko rečemo, da je bil eden izmed jadralskih genijev, in še danes krožijo po letalskih spletnih straneh o njem zanimive pripovedi. Peto mesto na svetovnem prvenstvu v jadralnem letenju s kovinskim meteorjem leta 1965 v South Cerneyu v Veliki Britaniji je tretji največji dosežek slovenskih jadralcev na svetovnih prvenstvih. Križnar je v odprtem razredu zmagal četrti tekmovalni dan, v prostem preletu je opravil 210 milj dolg let. Organizatorji so mu podelili priznanje za dosežek prvenstva. Ohranil se je utrinek: Ciko je reprezentančne prijatelje rešil zadrege, ko so organizatorji povabili jugoslovansko ekipo na vljudnostni obisk k potomcem slavnega Charlesa Dickensa. Sedel je za klavir in zapel. Zadrege ni bilo več. Med njegove športne uspehe uvrščamo tudi nastop na evropskem aerorallyju (Split, Atene, Dunaj, München), ko sta s slovenskim KB-11 letela z Marjanom Bizjanom v vlogi navigatorja in jima je gorelo nad koleni; vse do cilja se nista pustila prestrašiti in sta pristala na četrtem mestu.

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Leta 1965 je Letalska zveza Jugoslavije proglasila Križnarja za najboljšega športnika v družini letalskih športov – prejel je »zlatega orla«, simbol Mednarodne letalske zveze. Še istega leta je v Sloveniji prejel Bloudkovo plaketo, priznanje za športne dosežke, ki so jih takrat podeljevali prvič. Tudi to govori o Križnarjevi športni nadarjenosti in priljubljenosti. V

Cikovih časih je imelo letalstvo v očeh mladih posebno mesto, delež k takemu ozračju pa je prispeval tudi Ciril Križnar–Ciko (1934–1968), ki je v svojem kratkem življenju preživel v jadralnih letalih približno 800 ur.

{ Gliding }

The Destinies of the Legendary

Ciril Križnar (1934-1968) Text: Niko Slana

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hy of the multitude of glider pilots who have flown or still do professionally for Adria Airways, did we choose Ciril Križnar and invest him with an aura of legend? In Slovenian flying circles the glider pilots Franček Mordej, Vine Žakelj and Franc Štrukelj were equally charismatic, and even Marjan Bizjan started off amongst them, while just recently Janez Pintar and Miha Thaler were flying, and Aleš Maraž, Igor Kolarič, Željko Roškar and Sebastjan Ramšak are still competing successfully. But Ciko, as his friends called him, had an especially interesting childhood in aviation, and his albeit brief time as an aviator charted a rapid but mercurial ascent. In his life he sought out his own path. Perhaps it should have been recorded by the writer Danilo Kiš in his Encyclopaedia of the Dead, and his life is like some narrative out of The Master and Margarita; indeed it seems as if in Ciko there was something of Woland, who personifies the devil in The Master and Margarita. Perhaps destiny sought to tell him this early on, when his parents took their little stripling along to a performance of the opera Carmen. As those of you who know the libretto will confirm, Bizet’s gypsy also had one sole master – destiny. The young lad from Gunclje was interested in skiing, but most of all in ski jumping, since there was a jump almost right in his back yard. Yet he also sensed the attraction of the Šentvid aviation modelling circle, especially when they spent the winter successfully restoring a donated Vrabec plane. However, the generous local gliding competitors had a change of heart, and before the lads could try it out, they stole back the glider. Ciko was furious, so he went to the airfield in Polje, enrolled in the flying club and started to fly, even though he was officially too young. He lied about his age. It was then that fate first wagged a finger at him. He brought the Vrabec down hard onto the ground, and spent several days in hospital and at the sanatorium at Rakitna. As soon as he was better, he got back to flying, but later he feared the strict medical exams, the crash in his youth having clearly left some impairment to his hearing. His aviation mentors in Ljubljana reckoned he was made of the right stuff, and soon he was put in a position of responsibility – at the seat of the winch – and not long after that he was teaching people how to glide. In his short time at the club, he advanced in leaps and bounds,

and many much older boys just watched in amazement. He also had the right feel for aerobatics, learning his skills in the group guided by Jože Dolinar and Branko Žiger, who taught them at the same time aerobatics in a Mačka glider and powered Biker. Today people still recall his acrobatic stunts, for instance when he would fly his Mačka at competitions about a metre above the ground, upside down, then haul it over the hangar and the next instant land it. Soon after the war, his artisan father, who was artistically inspired – he immortalised all his sons and daughters in oil on canvas, at home they played the piano, and during the war he taught his older offspring to swim in the Sava – departed the large family for ever. For the Križnars the struggle for survival began, and like all the young members of the family he too had to collect blueberries and mushrooms. He had to earn some cash for school books. Here, too, lies the key to understanding his later actions, for instance his risky job in Yemen. He completed secondary vocational engineering school, got a job fairly quickly at Litostroj, and soon became administrator of the flying club at Murska Sobota, while also becoming an inspector for motorised aviation at the Slovenian Aviation Association and enrolling at the mechanical engineering faculty. When the professor at the faculty found out that he was fraternising with his daughter, he let Ciril know that this would not be good for him, but in one way or another he neglected his studies. We know he got the money together for a Vespa, to please the girl and her parents, but when the door to Adria Airways opened, he forgot about the professor and his boilers. He took the exam to copilot a DC-6. Following the crisis at Adria Airways, a group of pilots, together with DC-6 aircraft, moved to the Yemeni operator BASCO Airline. Križnar and Sajevic, who were the last to join the group, were hired to fly DC-3s and to perform transports that also had a military angle. We know that on its approach to landing at Atak, their aircraft was shot down by opponents of the regime for which they were working, but we know nothing more precise about their fate. August last year marked 40 years since we lost all trace of them. In Slovenia there was no one who might remember his life here and sporting triumphs. It would be no false glorification to say that he was a genius of gliding, and fascinating tales about him are still doing the rounds on aviation websites. At the 1965 world gliding championship at South Cerney in Britain, he won fifth place in a metal Meteor, and this was the third highest achievement of any Slovenian glider at the world championships. In the open class Križnar won the fourth competition day, and in free flying he performed a flight 210 miles long. The organisers presented him with an award for his achievements at the championship. An anecdote remains of when Ciko saved his team-mates from an awkward situation when the organisers invited the Yugoslav team on a courtesy visit to the descendants of the famous Charles Dickens. He sat at the piano and sang. The awkwardness was over. His success in sport also includes a performance in the European Aerorally (Split, Athens, Vienna, Munich), when he flew a Slovenian KB-11 with Marjan Bizjan as navigator, and he was burned above the knees, but remained focused until the finish and landed in fourth place.

foto: Zdravko Markovšek

Meteor

HRBTNI LET je višja stopnja akrobatskega letenja: za pilota se upravljanje letala v tem položaju otežuje, saj mora razmišljati in delovati zrcalno. Visoko nad zemljo to niti ni problem, malo pa je pilotov, ki bi si drznili leteti z jadralnim letalom, obrnjenim na hrbet, tik nad zemljo. Ciko je bil eden redkih, ki si je privoščil tudi to.

FLYING UPSIDE DOWN – this is an advanced aerobatic skill, since control of the aircraft in this position is made harder by the pilot having to think and act in reverse. High above the ground this is no problem, but there are few pilots who would dare fly a glider upside down just above the ground. Ciko was on of the few who felt able to do this.

JOŽE DOLINAR je bil jadralni in motorni pilot. Ni imel sicer svoje šole, ampak je bil samo mentor (učitelj) mladim jadralcem. Dolinar je kasneje uspešno letel kot prometni pilot in učitelj letenja v Nemčiji. Branko Žiger, ki je pozneje študiral operno petje na Reki, je istočasno to skupino učil akrobatskega letenja na motornem letalu Biker, ki so si ga sposodili v Zagrebu. Z njim so vlekli v zrak mačko, spotoma pa se je eden od jadralcev – vsi so bili tudi motorni piloti – učil še akrobacij z motornim letalom.

JOŽE DOLINAR – was a glider and powered aircraft pilot. Of course he did not have a school to speak of, but was simply a mentor (teacher) for young gliders. Dolinar later flew successfully as a commercial pilot and flying teacher in Germany. Branko Žiger, who later studied opera singing in Rijeka, was at the same time teaching the group aerobatics in a powered Biker aircraft, which he was lent in Zagreb. They would use it to pull the Mačka glider into the air, and then one of the pilots – they were all also able to fly powered aircraft – would learn aerobatics in the powered plane.

EVROPSKI AERORALLY se je začel v Splitu, nadaljeval do Aten, pristali so na Dunaju in nadaljevali pot do Münchna, kjer je bil cilj. Težko je na kratko napisati, kaj vse se je dogajalo. V letalu KB-11 jima je pred Dunajem zagorela električna napeljava, Bizjan, kasneje dolga leta šef pilotov v Adrii, je bil navigator, na tem letu pa se je ukvarjal s požarom. Pred dnevi sem z njim govoril in povedal je, kako je potrgal vso električno napeljavo; edina zadeva, ki je še delovala, so bila zakrilca, akumulator pa sta hranila za pristanek in spuščanje teh zakrilc. Brez toka so bili vsi inštrumenti, kolesa sta spuščala s pomožno hidravlično črpalko. Vseeno sta med več kot stotimi posadkami osvojila 4. mesto. 210 MILJ DOLG LET NA SVETOVNEM PRVENSTVU – takrat so leteli v zelo težavnih razmerah, pretežno po oblakih. Danes si nihče več ne predstavlja takšnega letenja po oblakih in je za jadralce tudi prepovedano. Meteor je bil dokaj zahtevno letalo, Križnar pa je dokazal, da ga dobro obvlada. Narejena sta bila samo dva primerka meteorja.

In 1965 the Yugoslav Aviation Association declared Križnar the best sports person in the field of aviation sports, and he received the “golden eagle”, symbol of the International Aviation Federation. In the same year in Slovenia he received a Bloudek plaque, one of the first to be awarded, in recognition of his sports achievements. This, too, speaks

EUROPEAN AERORALLY – the Rally started in Split, continued to Athens, landed in Vienna and then continued to the finish in Munich. It is hard to describe briefly what happened. Before reaching Vienna the electrical circuitry caught fire in the KB-11 aircraft, and Bizjan, who was later chief pilot at Adria for many years, was on board as navigator, but on this flight he had to deal with the fire. A few days ago I spoke to him, and he told me how he pulled out all the electrics; the only thing left working was the flaps, and they saved the battery for lowering the flaps and landing. There was no power to any of the instruments, and the wheels were lowered using a hydraulic pump. Even so, out of more than 100 crews they won fourth place. 210 MILE FLIGHT AT THE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP – here they were flying in very difficult conditions, mostly in clouds. Nowadays no one would dream of flying like that in clouds, and it is even prohibited for gliders. The Meteor was quite hard to fly, but Križnar showed he could handle it well. Only two models of the Meteor were produced.

of Križnar’s talent in sports and of his popularity. In Ciko’s time, flying had a special place in the eyes of young people, and part of that atmosphere was indeed created by Ciril Križnar – Ciko (1934-1968), who in his short life as a glider notched up around 800 hours.

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Jadralno letalstvo

Divjecesarska

doživetja

Besedilo: Niko Slana

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adralno letenje je ljubiteljski in tekmovalni šport. Nekje na sredini med obema je letenje za dosežke. Jadralci se z njimi predstavljajo

na mednarodni spletni strani in se med seboj primerjajo v dokaj širokem okviru neke regije, denimo, alpskih dežel. Spet drugi se potegujejo za mednarodna priznanja, nekateri jadralci pa so se odpovedali vsakršnemu dokazovanju. Letijo zgolj za svojo zabavo. Ampak povedati je treba kar takoj, da je zabava slab izraz, bolj bi ustrezalo zadovoljstvo. Kajti jadralno letenje nima nikakršnega pridiha romantike ali česa podobnega. Jadralci skupine, za katero so pomembni dosežki, se s svojimi letali gibljejo na meji možnega. Ja, morda je prav to tisti mik, ki neprestano vleče? Kdo bi to razumel?!

o smo Andreja Kolarja iz Lesc, enega najuspešnejših slovenskih alpskih jadralcev, vprašali, kako bi nekomu, ki ni jadralec, razložil, za kakšen dosežek gre, denimo, pri FAI trikotniku 750 km, je dejal: »Potnik, ki v velikem letalu potuje z Brnika proti zahodu, naj pogleda na uro in potem skozi lino. Tako daleč, kot prileti airbus v pol ure, letimo tudi jadralci. Spodaj so alpski vrhovi, ledeniki, divje alpske doline. Seveda pa moramo še domov, na izhodišče.« Jadralec, ki se loti velikega 750 km obsežnega trikotnika z izhodiščem v Lescah, mora leteti na sever čez avstrijske Alpe in vse do zadnjih hribov v Nemčiji, ki se še držijo Alp. Tam je hribovska mrcina z imenom Wilder Kaiser in zato so temu trikotniku nadeli prijateljsko ime Divjecesarski. Od tam morajo še malo naprej, pa ne zaradi razgleda na bavarsko ravan. Tam je pač točka, do katere je treba prileteti, da bi na koncu sestavili tistih vražjih 750 km. Za hrbtom imajo nešteto alpskih grebenov, pred seboj pa griče, ki se spuščajo v bavarsko pokrajino. Mogočni Wilder Kaiser je znamenje, da bo treba zaviti proti jugozahodu. Zapeljati se morajo v dolino Engadina, prek spodnje je treba splezati do zgornje. Najbrž ni treba razlagati, da so tu hribi visoki preko 3000 m, tako da so tudi pašniki pod krili neznansko visoko. Ampak vrnitve ni več, zdaj je treba samo še naprej. Smer jugovzhod najbrž ne pove veliko, opis je bolj slikovit, če povemo, da druga stranica velikega trikotnika vodi v Švico, prav do St. Moritza. Tu se znova obrnejo proti domu, na vzhod. Navadno je takrat že pozna ura in začenja se boj s časom. Zadnjih 300 km poti proti domu je najbolj občutljiv del poleta. Sonce že izgublja moč, vzgonska dviganja slabijo ali izginjajo v dolinskih sencah. Če so jadralci dopoldne slutili vremenski preobrat, jih bo ta po šestih ali sedmih urah letenja zagotovo dosegel. In še marsikaj jih lahko zavre na dolgi poti.

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Namibija/Namibia, foto: Boštjan Pristavec

Vračanje proti domu je poker. Jadralec za upanje zastavi drago letalo, svoje znanje in živce … Grebeni, prek katerih je treba skočiti iz Švice do Dolomitov, so še zmeraj neznansko visoki. Tam nekje pri Corvari ali Brunicu se močneje prižge iskra upanja na srečno vrnitev. Če narava ugasne svoje tople zračne gejzire, je prikladna možnost za pristanek na letališču v Toblachu. In ko jadralec v daljavi zasluti mogočni Dobrač, si z zanimanjem ogleduje, če je ostalo še kaj od njegove oblačne kape. Ta je ključ za zadnjo visoko oviro – Karavanke. Če ni že prej preskočil na grebene Karnijskih Alp, mora zdaj prek njih v vznožje slovenskih Julijcev in v Zgornjesavsko dolino. Ta pozna ura za jadralce ni posebno prijazna, a ne preostane jim nič drugega, kot da ji skušajo vzeti še zadnje atome moči, ki jih je sonce čez dan naložilo v pobočja, obrnjena v zahodno sonce. Ko se po devetih, desetih ali še več urah letenja znova dotaknejo domačega letališča, morda začutijo zadovoljstvo. Saj ste razumeli, da letijo brez

motorja, izkoriščajoč dvigajoče zračne tokove, in da jim nešteti zavoji, ki jih pritiskajo na sedež letala, poberejo veliko moči in volje. Prvi od Slovencev je opravil opisani trikotnik Miha Thaler, Boris Žorž ga je raztegnil že čez 800 km, Andrej Kolar je pravi poznavalec, zmogel ga je že nekajkrat, Luka Žnidaršič in Karel Čeč sta si ga prav tako vpisala v svojo letalsko knjižico, Tone Čerin, Tomaž Štupnik, Aleš Šuster so pristali tik pred ciljem. Aleš Maraž dosega podobne daljave z izhodišča v Ajdovščini. Ampak – saj niso samo veliki trikotniki, še veliko drugih izzivov se lotevajo slovenski jadralci. Boštjan Pristavec (pa ne samo on) je z ultralahkim letalom Apis postavil nekaj svetovnih rekordov, v Namibiji pa je v zadnjih petih letih opravil že več kot petdeset letov preko 1000 km, večino v trikotniku; njegov največji trikotnik znaša 1250 km. Vse to so bili leti od zgodnjega dopoldneva do zadnjega sončnega žarka nad Kalaharijem.

{ Gliding }

Wild Emperor

Adventures Text: Niko Slana

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liding is both a recreational activity and a competitive sport. Somewhere halfway between the two is something that could be described as "achievement gliding". Glider pilots post their feats on an international website and compare each other's achievements within the fairly broad context of a given region, for example Alpine countries. Others try for international titles and recognition, but some pilots have turned their backs on competition of every kind. They fly merely for their own amusement. It should be said, however, that amusement is probably the wrong expression. Satisfaction would be nearer the mark. Because there is nothing romantic or anything like that about gliding. Glider pilots who belong to the group where achievements are important take their gliders to the very edges of the possible. Is that perhaps the attraction that draws them perpetually onwards? Who knows? When we asked Andrej Kolar of Lesce, one of Slovenia's most successful Alpine glider pilots, how he would explain to someone who is not a glider pilot what kind of a feat it is to complete, say, a 750 km FAI triangle, he gave us the following answer: "A passenger on an airliner travelling from Ljubljana Airport towards the west should look at his watch and then out of the window. The distance that an Airbus can cover in half an hour – that's how far we glider pilots fly. Below us are Alpine peaks, glaciers, wild Alpine valleys. And then of course we still have to get back to where we started from." Pilots who tackle the big 750-kilometre triangle starting in Lesce must fly north across the Austrian Alps and all the way to the last hills in Germany that still touch the Alps. There they find a monster of a hill that goes by the name of Wilder Kaiser, so naturally they have nicknamed this triangle the "Wild Emperor Triangle". From there, they must fly on a little further, but not for the sake of a view of the Bavarian plain. This is in fact the point that they have to reach in order to ensure that the total number of kilometres flown adds up to 750 at the end. Behind their backs are the countless ridges of the Alps, and in front of them the hills descending into the Bavarian countryside. The mighty Wilder Kaiser is the sign that it will soon be time to turn towards the south-west. Now they have to head for the Engadin Valley, climbing through the Lower Engadin to the Upper Engadin. There is probably no need to point out that the mountains here are over 3,000 metres

high, and that even the pastures beneath the glider's wings are incredibly high up. But there is no turning back: now all they have to do is keep going. "A south-east direction" does not convey very much, so a more vivid description would be to say that the second side of the great triangle leads into Switzerland, to St Moritz in fact. Here the pilots turn towards home, to the east. Usually it is already getting late and the battle with time is beginning. The last 300 kilometres in the homeward direction are the most sensitive part of the flight. The sun is already losing its power and the sources of lift are weakening or disappearing in the shadows of the valleys. If the pilots sensed a change in the weather in the morning, it will certainly have reached them after six or seven hours' flying. And there are still many things that can slow them down on their long journey. The return home is like a game of poker. The pilot gambles his expensive aircraft, his skill and his nerves… The mountain ridges over which he needs to pass on his way from Switzerland to the Dolomites are still enormously high. Somewhere near Corvara or Brunico, the spark of hope of a safe return starts to burn brighter. If nature switches off its thermals, the ascending columns of warm air that allow the glider to climb, there is the possibility of a landing at the airfield in Toblach. And when the pilot senses mighty Dobrač in the distance, he peers eagerly ahead to see whether any of its cloud cover remains. This is the key to the last high obstacle – the Karavanke range. If he has not yet reached the crests of the Carnic Alps, he must now go across them and into the foothills of Slovenia's Julian Alps and the Upper Sava Valley. At this late hour this is not particularly pleasant for glider pilots, but there is nothing for it but to try and draw from it the last atoms of energy that the sun has poured into its westward-facing slopes during the day. When they touch down at their home airfield after nine or ten hours' flying – sometimes even more – perhaps they feel satisfaction. Because of course it is understood that they fly without an engine, taking advantage of rising air currents, and that the countless circling turns that press them into the aircraft's seat use up a great deal of strength and willpower. The first Slovenian to complete the triangle was Miha Thaler. Boris Žorž has already stretched it out to over 800 kilometres. Andrej Kolar knows it very well, having flown it several times. Luka Žnidaršič and Karel Čeč have likewise entered it into their flying logs. Tone Čerin, Tomaž Štupnik and Aleš Šuster were forced to land just before the finish. Aleš Maraž achieves similar distances from his base in Ajdovščina. But it is not only about big triangles. Slovenian glider pilots also tackle many other challenges. Boštjan Pristavec (and he is not the only one) has set a number of world records with an Apis ultralight, while over the last five years he has made more than fifty flights of over 1,000 kilometres in Namibia, most of them triangles. His biggest triangle measures 1,250 kilometres. All of these were flights lasting from the early morning until the last ray of sun over the Kalahari.

foto: Boštjan Pristavec

{ Gliding }

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Dolomiti,

foto: Niko Slana

foto: Luka Žnidaršič

foto: Boštjan Pristavec

Boris Žorž

Luka Žnidaršič

Aleš Šuster

Boštjan Pristavec

Andrej Kolar

Miha Thaler

Tomaž Štupnik

Aleš Maraž