Adria In-Flight Magazine by Adria Airways

VAŠ BREZPLAČNI IZVOD/YOUR PERSONAL COPY

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine december, januar • December, January 2010/2011

Terme

z dolgo zgodovino

Spas with a Long History Marjanca Jemec Božič Pariz • Paris

Rimske Toplice Thermana Laško Terme Dobrna

Zgodba o macesnu • The Story of the Larch Palško jezero Hokej • Ice Hockey

Zaklad iz zabojev • From the Treasure Chests Čile •Chile

Vesel Božič in srečno Novo leto. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

{ Pismo } Drage potnice, spoštovani potniki!

Dear Passenger,

Prisrčno pozdravljeni na letalu Adrie Airways, slovenskega letalskega prevoznika. Veseli me, da ste se odločili za polet z nami.

A very warm welcome aboard this aircraft of Adria Airways, the airline of Slovenia. I am delighted that you chose to fly with us.

The million passengers carried in the first ten months of this year most certainly confirm that Adria is a well-established player in the skies of Europe, and one distinguished by a high level of services, an individual approach to passengers, responsiveness and adaptability. The basic business approach of our company, which operates under the principle of a scheduled network airline, demonstrates that this is an essential model in this geographic area. As the main hub for Adria flights, Ljubljana Airport is maintaining its role as a link between southeast Europe and western and northern Europe, and this also applies to the winter timetable, which runs from the end of October 2010 to March 2011. It is comparable to last winter season, but we have added flights to Banjaluka and Marseille. In December Adria is opening up another hub in the Balkans, from which in future our aircraft will fly to new destinations. We are setting up new direct scheduled services from Priština to Germany. The planned services between Priština and Munich, Frankfurt and Duesseldorf will offer many passengers even quicker and simpler travel. Ever since we decentralised Adria Airways into a group of independent companies, each one of them has been blazing its own trail. Adria Airways Tehnika d.o.o. is one of our three subsidiaries, and it has already gained solid recognition for its maintenance centre and established itself among the best in the world, this year for the first time making a successful showing in the Indian market. Our expectations are that this kind of cooperation will continue in the coming years. Meanwhile our maintenance operations have already had a presence in markets outside Europe, specifically in Kazakhstan, Libya and Iraq, which certainly sets a good precedent for the newly established company. Given the anticipated expansion in providing services, construction of the new third hangar is continuing, and work should be completed by the first half of the coming year. foto: Dean Dubokovič

Milijon prepeljanih potnikov v prvih desetih mesecih tega leta prav gotovo potrjuje, da je Adria kot letalski prevoznik dodobra uveljavljen igralec na evropskem nebu, ki ga odlikujejo visoka raven storitev, individualni pristop do potnikov, odzivnost in prilagodljivost. Temeljna poslovna usmeritev naše družbe, ki deluje po principu rednega mrežnega letalskega prevoznika, priča, da je to model, ki je na tem geografskem prostoru nujen in potreben. Ljubljansko letališče kot osrednje vozlišče Adrijinih poletov ohranja vlogo povezovalca jugovzhodne Evrope z zahodno in severno Evropo tudi v zimskem voznem redu, ki je v veljavi od konca oktobra 2010 do marca 2011. Ta ostaja primerljiv s prejšnjo zimsko sezono, dodana pa sta še leta v Banjaluko in Marseille. Decembra odpira Adria še eno vozlišče na Balkanu, od koder naj bi v prihodnje njena letala poletela na nove destinacije. Vzpostavljamo nove redne direktne polete iz Prištine v Nemčijo. Načrtovane povezave Prištine z Münchnom, Frankfurtom in Düsseldorfom bodo številnim potnikom tako omogočile še hitrejše ter enostavnejše potovanje. Odkar smo izvedli decentralizacijo Adrie Airways v skupino samostojnih družb, si tudi vsaka izmed teh utira svojo samostojno pot. Adria Airways Tehnika d.o.o. kot ena izmed treh naših hčerinskih družb, ki je že dobro uveljavila prepoznavnost svojega vzdrževalnega centra ter se umestila med najboljše na svetu, je letos prvič uspešno stopila na indijski trg. Naša pričakovanja so, da se bo takšno sodelovanje nadaljevalo tudi v naslednjih letih. S svojo vzdrževalno dejavnostjo smo sicer že bili prisotni na trgih zunaj Evrope, in sicer v Kazahstanu, Libiji in Iraku, kar je prav gotovo dobra popotnica novoustanovljenemu podjetju. Zaradi pričakovanega povečanega opravljanja servisnih storitev se izgradnja novega tretjega hangarja nadaljuje, dela pa naj bi bila končana do prve polovice prihodnjega leta. Dragi potniki, naj vam ob tej priložnosti zaželim še srečno in uspehov polno prihajajoče leto, obenem pa napovem, da bo to za Adrio še posebej pomembno. Naša družba bo namreč praznovala 50-letnico svojega obstoja. V ta namen pripravljamo za vas kup zanimivih akcij, o katerih vas bomo sproti obveščali, saj želimo svoje praznično razpoloženje deliti predvsem z vami.

May I also take this opportunity to wish you, our passengers, a very happy and successful coming year, and I should add that the year to come will be especially important for Adria. It will be the year that our company celebrates its 50th anniversary. With this in mind we are preparing a range of attractive offers for you, and we will keep you regularly updated about them, since we want to share our celebrations especially with you.

Zahvaljujem se vam za izkazano zaupanje in želim prijeten let.

Thank you for choosing Adria, and have a very pleasant flight

Mag. Tadej Tufek,

Tadej Tufek, MSc

glavni izvršni direktor

CEO

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Vsebina/Contents 34

Adrijina potnica/Adria Passenger

Marjanca Jemec Božič Marjanca Jemec Božič Grega Bulc

Pariz/Paris

Zakaj Pariz? Why Paris?

Feliks Rainer Janez Pukšič

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Revija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways flights.

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Izdajatelj/Published: Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d. Adria Airways, The Airline of Slovenia Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik - Aerodrom Uredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc Bukovec Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4541 E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.si Urednica / Edited by: Meta Krese Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka Dvoršak Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4526 E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si Oblikovanje in AD /Design and AD: LUKS Studio Prevod /Translated by: Amidas Lektorica/Language editing: Vera Samohod Fotoliti /Lithography: Schwarz d.o.o. Tisk /Printed by: Schwarz d.o.o.

46 48 52 58 60

Terme z dolgo zgodovino/Spas with a long history Meta Krese

Rimske Toplice Rimske Toplice

Thermana Laško Thermana Laško

Terme Dobrna Terme Dobrna

Macesen/The larch

Zgodba o macesnu The Story of the Larch Janez Mihovec

V deželi stoterih jezer/In the land of a hundred lakes

Od burje obrušeni kristali

Crystals Polished by the North Wind Jože Balas

ISSN 1318-0789

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo. The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publ isher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. Brezplačen izvod /Your personal copy

Hokej/Ice hockey

Večni zeleno-rdeči hokejski derbiji The Perennial Green-Red Hockey Derbies Aleš Fevžer

Dediščina/Heritage

Zaklad iz zabojev

From the Treasure Chests Jana Valenčič

Čile/Chile

Največji teleskopi sveta

The Biggest Telescopes in the World Iztok Bončina

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Adria Airways Novosti/News Winter timetable

31. oktobra 2010 smo v Adrii prešli na zimski vozni red, ki bo veljal do 26. marca 2011. V njem vam nudimo 185 rednih tedenskih letov iz Ljubljane na 20 destinacij, večinoma po Evropi. Štirikrat dnevno leti Adria v Frankfurt, trikrat dnevno na Dunaj, v Muenchen in v Zuerich, dvakrat dnevno v Bruselj, deset letov na teden opravi v Pariz, osemkrat tedensko leti v Moskvo, sedemkrat tedensko v Amsterdam, Istanbul, Prištino, Skopje in Tirano, šestkrat v Beograd in Sarajevo, štirikrat v Banjaluko, London in v Varšavo. Trikrat tedensko povezuje Ljubljano s Podgorico in Koebenhavnom, dvakrat na teden leti v Marseille. Na progi med Dunajem in Frankfurtom leti trinajstkrat na teden. V decembru je Adria vzpostavila redne povezave iz Prištine v Muenchen, Frankfurt in Duesseldorf. Za vse, željne toplih krajev tudi pozimi, organiziramo v sodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami čarterske polete v priljubljeni počitniški destinaciji v Egiptu – Sharm el Sheikh in Hurgado.

On 31 October 2010 Adria Airways transferred to its winter timetable, which will be operated up until 26 March 2011. With the winter timetable we offer 185 scheduled flights a week from Ljubljana to 20 destinations, mostly in Europe. Adria flies four times a day to Frankfurt, three times a day to Vienna, Munich and Zurich and twice a day to Brussels, and operates ten flights a week to Paris, eight times a week to Moscow, seven times a week to Amsterdam, Istanbul, Priština, Skopje and Tirana, six times a week to Belgrade and Sarajevo and four times a week to Banjaluka, London and Warsaw. There are three flights a week from Ljubljana to Podgorica and Copenhagen, and two a week to Marseille. Adria flies 13 times a week between Vienna and Frankfurt. In December Adria started up scheduled services from Priština to Munich, Frankfurt and Düsseldorf. Anyone in need of some winter warmth can book one of our charter flights, operated in partnership with travel agents, to the popular Egyptian holiday destinations of Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada.

Sodelovanje srbskega in slovenskega letalskega prevoznika

Cooperation between Serbian and Slovenian airlines

Adria Airways je s 1. marcem 2010 po skoraj dvajsetih letih ponovno vzpostavila redno letalsko povezavo z Beogradom, kamor letimo šestkrat tedensko. V septembru smo linijo nadgradili s tako imenovanim »code-sharingom« oziroma sporazumom o medsebojnem zakupu sedežev med srbskim in slovenskim prevoznikom. To pomeni, da sta postali obe glavni mesti – Slovenije in Srbije – povezani z dvema letoma dnevno, kar je še posebej pomembno za vse potnike, ki poslovno potujejo na tej relaciji. Z eno samo letalsko vozovnico lahko potnik zjutraj leti v Beograd z letalom Jat Airways in se vrača s popoldanskim letom Adrie v Ljubljano. Poleg te oblike sodelovanja smo se s srbskim letalskim prevoznikom dogovorili na podlagi posebnega sporazuma tudi o sodelovanju pri prevozu potnikov družbe Jat Airways do številnih evropskih in svetovnih destinacij prek ljubljanskega letališča. Med različnimi destinacijami bosta za te potnike še posebej privlačni Barcelona in Madrid, kamor Jat Airways trenutno ne leti direktno iz Beograda. Jat Airways si močno prizadeva okrepiti sodelovanje med letalskimi družbami v regiji. Nedavno dogovorjeno sodelovanje s črnogorskim letalskim prevoznikom Montenegro Airlines pri usklajevanju voznih redov letov in ustvarjanju sinergije z uporabo dveh flot bo prispevalo k učinkovitejšemu in racionalnejšemu poslovanju obeh letalskih družb, zagotovilo večje število destinacij in nižje cene letalskih vozovnic, kar bo razveselilo številne potnike. Načrtovani skupni nastop letalskih prevoznikov Jat Airways in Montenegro Airlines pri letih v tujino bo omogočil povečanje števila potnikov in okrepil položaj obeh družb v izjemno močni konkurenci na mednarodni ravni.

After a break of nearly 20 years, on 1 March 2010 Adria Airways re-established a scheduled service to Belgrade, operating six flights a week. In September we enhanced this service with what is called codesharing, in other words an agreement on ticket sales for the same flights through either the Serbian or Slovenian carrier. This means that the capital cities of both Slovenia and Serbia are linked by two flights a day, which is especially important for all those travellers flying on business between these destinations. With just one airline ticket, a passenger can fly to Belgrade in the morning on a Jat Airways plane and then return to Ljubljana on the afternoon flight with Adria. In addition to this form of cooperation, we have concluded a special agreement with the Serbian airline regarding cooperation in flying Jat Airways passengers to a number of European and world destinations via Ljubljana Airport. Of the various destinations offered, these passengers will be especially tempted by Barcelona and Madrid, which Jat Airways currently does not serve directly from Belgrade. Jat Airways is involved in a major effort to boost its cooperation with airlines in the region. Its recently agreed cooperation with the Montenegrin carrier Montenegro Airlines in coordinating timetables and creating synergy in the use of their two fleets will contribute to the more efficient and rational operation of both airlines, providing more destinations and lower ticket prices, which will be welcomed by many passengers. The planned joint operations of the carriers Jat Airways and Montenegro Airlines in flights to other countries will facilitate an increase in passenger numbers and will strengthen the position of the two companies within the exceptionally stiff competition in international travel.

Foto: A. Kersnič

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Zimski vozni red

Aktualne ponudbe/Latest Offers V vsaki številki revije vas bomo seznanjali z najnovejšimi ugodnimi ponudbami, ki jih za vas pripravljamo skozi vse leto. / We will keep you up to date with our latest special offers in each issue of the magazine. Special offers are available throughout the year. Outlet _inflight:Layout 1

Adria Airways Special Offers! Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a “buy early, fly for less” basis. To make our services even more attractive, reduced fares are available for travel during the week.

Nove direktne povezave Adria Airways bo začela 10. decembra 2010 leteti direktno iz Prištine v Muenchen, Frankfurt in Duesseldorf. Na teh povezavah bodo letela letala tipa Airbus A-319 s 135 sedeži. Nove povezave bodo omogočile potnikom hitro, enostavno in udobno potovanje, pripravili pa smo tudi cenovno ugodne ponudbe za naslednje destinacije: iz Prištine do Duesseldorfa ali Frankfurta lahko poletite že za 238 EUR, do Muenchna pa za 229 EUR. Navedena zneska vključujeta vse takse in pristojbine, razen stroška rezervacije. Cene veljajo za povratna potovanja, število mest pa je omejeno. Več informacij o voznem redu dobite na naši spletni strani www.adria.si.

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Page 1

Adria Outlet and other Adria Airways special offers online

Ujemi ugoden polet! Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu »Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašim potrebam, imamo na voljo znižane ponudbe tudi za potovanje med tednom.

19.5.2008

The Adria Outlet gives you the chance to buy one-way tickets at specially reduced prices. If you are the sort of person who likes to decide on the spur of the moment and is easily tempted, you will find plenty to interest you in our wide range of destinations. Don’t miss our other special offers – keep up to date by visiting www.adria.si.

Delujem ekonomično, potujem poslovno! Za nakup letalske vozovnice vsaj sedem dni pred začetkom vašega potovanja vam za ceno potovanja v ekonomskem razredu nudimo polet v poslovnem. Ponudba velja za nakup vozovnice v ekonomskem razredu po najvišji ceni. Edina omejitev je nakup vozovnice najmanj sedem dni pred odhodom; spremembe rezervacij so brezplačne.

Varčujem, a ne na račun kakovosti! Več o ponudbi preberite na www.adria.si ali pa pokličite tel. št. 080 13 00.

New direct connections

Work economically, travel in business!

On 10 December 2010, Adria Airways will begin flying directly from Priština to Munich, Frankfurt and Düsseldorf. For these services we will operate Airbus A-319 aircraft with 135 seats. The new connections will offer passengers fast, simple and comfortable travel, and we have also put together special attractive prices for these destinations: from Priština to Düsseldorf or Frankfurt you can fly starting from EUR 238, and to Munich from EUR 229. These prices are for return trips and include all taxes and fees, except booking fees. There are limited seats for this offer. For details and timetable, visit our website www.adria.si.

When you buy a ticket at least seven days in advance, you can travel in business class for the price of an economy-class fare. This offer applies to economy-class tickets purchased at the highest rate. The only restriction is that you must purchase your ticket at least seven days before you travel. Changes to the reservation can be made free of charge.

Adria Outlet in ostale posebne ponudbe Adrie Airways na spletu V Adria Outletu vas čakajo priložnosti za nakup enosmernih vozovnic po posebno ugodnih cenah. Tiste, ki se radi prepuščate hitrim odločitvam in se zlahka pustite zapeljati, bo prebudila pestra ponudba naših destinacij. Ne spreglejte tudi ostalih posebnih ponudb in bodite stalno obveščeni, zato nas redno obiskujte na www.adria.si.

Savings, no change in quality! For more information visit www.adria.si or call us on 080 13 00.

Adrijine E-novice Vabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavite na Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o naših novostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenih informacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic. Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!

Adria E-news Why not visit our website www.adria.si and subscribe to Adria’s E-news service? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and special offers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuable source of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.

Let information be to your advantage!

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Adria Airways Aktualne ponudbe/Latest Offers

»Zaljubljeni v Pariz« Zakaj? Preverite… Vabimo vas, da poletite z nami v Pariz, mesto ljubezni, mesto kulinaričnih dobrot...

od 130 EUR* Cena velja za povratno potovanje med Ljubljano in Parizom. *Navedeni znesek vključuje vse takse in ostale pristojbine, razen stroška rezervacije. Cena je zgolj informativnega značaja.

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Število mest za to ceno je omejeno.

“In love with Ljubljana” Why? Check… We invite you to fly with us to Ljubljana, to the vibrant city of delights...

from 130 EUR* This price is valid for a return trip between Paris and Ljubljana. *Quoted fare includes all taxes and other fees. Quoted fare does not include a reservation fee. This price is for information purpose only. Seats are limited and may not be available on all days/flights.

www.adria.si

{ Adria Airways }

Tehnološka priprava letenja Besedilo: David Šalamun

Fotografije: Arne Hodalič

ilot lahko varno opravlja svoje delo samo s sodelovanjem najrazličnejših letalskih služb. Ena

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od teh je oddelek »tehnološka priprava letenja«,

katerega delo je neposredno povezano z izvedbo samega poleta. V oddelku 24 ur dnevno skrbijo za ustrezno pripravo na varen let. Ko pridem v pisarno, zagledam na mizi nekaj kart. Spominjajo me na šiviljske kroje v modnih revijah moje stare mame. Neštete črte, ki se brez reda križajo po papirju, predstavljajo zame en sam kaos. Moj sogovornik gospod Nenad Djoković opazi, da sem nekoliko presenečen, in mi začne razlagati o svojem delu. »V našem oddelku posredujemo pilotom vse informacije, ki jih potrebujejo pred samo izvedbo leta. Z njimi se dogovorimo in pripravimo načrt poleta – po kateri poti bodo letela letala od točke A do točke B. Izračunamo, na kateri višini bo polet in koliko goriva potrebujejo za izvedbo varnega leta. To je odvisno od mnogih faktorjev, in sicer od tipa letala in njegove teže, metereoloških pogojev na poti in še od marsičesa drugega. Za vsak let znotraj Evrope je potrebno posredovati informacijo Eurocontrol centru v Bruslju, kjer zbirajo vse informacije o vseh letih v celotnem evropskem prostoru. Poleg tega je naša dolžnost opozoriti posadko na vse neobičajnosti, ki jih lahko čakajo na njihovem poletu – recimo, če je kakšna pristajalna steza zaprta zaradi popravil ali kaj podobnega.« Gospod Djoković se mi opraviči, saj ga že čaka pilot med pripravami za let. Skupaj morata še enkrat preveriti vse potrebno za varno pot. Medtem ko čakam, začnem gledati karto, ki leži pred mano. V cele pol ure, ki jo preživim sam, mi uspe prepoznati zgolj obrise kopnega in zazdi se mi, da celo razpoznam, kateri znak naj bi predstavljal letališče. Ko se gospod Djoković vrne, mi reče: »Vidim, da vas zanima karta. Počakajte malo.« Iz predala povleče eno od mnogih rjavih knjig. Jo odpre ter mi pri tem pove, da so v teh knjigah zbrani zemljevidi vseh letališč sveta.

Pokaže kvadratek na karti in pravi: »To je točka Lasti C1, ki jo mora letalo doseči na predvideni višini, kadar prihaja s severa. Šele potem lahko začne s pristankom. Označeni pa sta še dve drugi točki, do katerih mora prileteti takrat, ko je točka Lasti C1 zaprta ali pa se letalo bliža letališču z juga ali zahoda. Za vzlet pa je druga karta.« Počasi vidim nek smisel v teh črtah, kvadratih in neredu ter sledim razlagi Nenada Djokovića, kje se mora letalo spustiti in potem ponovno vzdigniti, da se izogne hribu blizu letališča. Na karti pred nama je črnogorsko letališče. »Pri mojem delu seveda pomaga, če čim večkrat letiš kot opazovalec in tako zares spoznaš letališča. Seveda pa moramo obvladati še veliko drugega znanja. To so navigacija, terminologija, kako uporabljati radijska sredstva in še kar nekaj drugih stvari.« O tem tudi sam ne dvomim. »A, in tukaj ...« Prst ustavi na oznaki na karti. »Tukaj ni narisana le dolžina steze, ampak tudi parkirišča za letala.« Ko se vračam k avtu, pomislim, da še nikoli nisem razmišljal o tem, koliko različnih informacij je potrebnih za varno letenje.

Technological Flight Preparation Text: David Šalamun

Photography: Arne Hodalič

ilots can only do their work safely with the collaboration of a wide variety of aviation support services. One such service is the Technological Flight Preparation department, whose work is tied directly to the flight itself. This department works 24 hours a day to ensure that everything is set up for a safe flight. When I enter the office, I notice several charts on the table. They remind me of the sewing patterns for the fashion shows my grandmother did. The countless lines criss-crossing the paper in random order seem utterly chaotic to me. Mr Nenad Djoković notices that I am a little surprised, and starts explaining his work. “Our department communicates all the information to pilots that they need before they actually carry out the flight. We liaise with the pilots, and make up a flight plan with the path that aircraft will fly from point A to point B. We calculate the altitude of the flight and how much fuel they will need to fly safely. This depends on many factors, such as type of aircraft, weight of the aircraft, meteorological conditions en route and much more. For each flight within Europe, information has to be sent to the Eurocontrol centre in Brussels, which collects all the information about all flights throughout European airspace.

Apart from that, our duty is to advise the crew of anything unusual awaiting them on their flight. For instance, if some runway is closed for repairs.” Mr Djoković excuses himself, because another pilot is now waiting to complete flight preparations. Together they have to double-check all the data for a safe flight. While I wait, I start looking at the chart lying in front of me. In the full half-hour I am left alone, all I succeed in identifying is the outlines of the land, and I think I might even have made out the sign representing an airport. When Mr Djoković returns, he says: “I see you’re interested in the map. Wait a moment.” Out of a drawer he pulls one of many brown loose-leaf binders. “We call this the airport collection. It describes all the airports of this world.” He opens one, showing a tiny rectangle on a map, and says: “That’s point Lasti C1, which an aircraft must reach at the required altitude when it arrive from the north. Only then can it start the landing procedure. There are two other points marked, and the aircraft must reach those when point Lasti C1 is closed or it is approaching the airport from the south or west. There’s another map for take-off.” I gradually start to make some sense of these charts, rectangles and chaos, and I follow Mr Djoković’s explanation of where aircraft must reduce altitude and then climb higher again to avoid the hill close to the airport on the chart in front of us. It shows an airport in Montenegro. “In my work it certainly helps if you fly as often as possible as an observer and that way you really get to know the airports. But of course we have to acquire a lot of other knowledge, too. Such as navigation, terminology, how to use radio devices and quite a few other things.” I have no doubt about that. “Oh yes, and here…” His finger stops at a mark on the chart. “This doesn’t just indicate the length of the runway, but also the parking spaces for aircraft.” When I return to my car, I realise that I had never considered just how much different information you need for a safe flight.

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{ Umetnost & kultura }

Jean Tinguely: Meta, Pariz, 1973 (To knjigo umetnika je izbral Marko Kovačič)

Ljubljana, Mednarodni grafični likovni center (MGLC), do 8. februarja

9+9

Ljubljana, Cankarjev dom, od 5. januarja do 6. februarja

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Knjige umetnika in umetniki

Gorazd Vilhar: Božanski detajl

Po četrtstoletnem bivanju in fotografskem delovanju na tujem je Gorazd Vilhar (roj. 1955) v Sloveniji manj znan, kot bi moral biti. Kljub vsemu njegovo delo tu navdušeno spremlja intimen krog prijateljev in ljubiteljev. Čeprav je v teh letih skozi kukalo fotoaparata opazoval druge kotičke sveta, se je njegovo umetniško oko razvijalo v istem kontinuumu kot predtem v Evropi. Izrazito ikonska vizija tega umetnostnega zgodovinarja, ki od nekdaj slovi po svojem nagnjenju k čudovitim barvam in presenetljivim detajlom, se je še bolj razvila in izčistila. Celo v osemdesetih so bile njegove fotografije tako posebne, da je bila katera koli od njegovih podob hitro prepoznavna kot »Vilharjeva«, in to velja še danes. Njegov obsežni fotografski opus, ki se pretežno osredotoča na Japonsko, z izjemno poglobljenostjo in umetniškim čutom razkriva tradicije in lepote te bogate in pogosto skrivnostne vzhodne kulture. Ljubljana, Cankarjev dom, 5 January to 6 February

Devet slovenskih umetnic in umetnikov, Andrejka Čufer, Tanja Lažetić, Marko A. Kovačič, Eva Petrič, Petra Petančič, Alenka Pirman, Tadej Pogačar, Sašo Sedlaček in Mladen Stropnik, je izdelalo devet novih avtorskih projektov v devetih razstavnih sobanah Mednarodnega grafičnega likovnega centra. Izdelali so jih na podlagi del, izbranih iz zbirke avtorskih publikacij in knjig umetnika Mednarodnega grafičnega likovnega centra. Knjiga umetnika je fenomen dvajsetega stoletja in v obsežni zbirki, ki jo hrani MGLC, so zastopana dela pomembnih predstavnikov avantgard 20. stoletja: Vito Acconci, Ben, Christian Boltanski, Daniel Buren, Hanne Darboven, Alfredo Jaar, Lucy Lippard, Mangelos, Annette Messager, skupina OHO, Iztok Osojnik, Dušan Pirih Hup, Zora Stančič, izdaje museuma in progress, časopisa Point d'Ironie itd. Povabljene umetnice in umetniki so na razstavi ustvarili nova izhodišča za razumevanje knjige umetnika in interpretacije muzejske zbirke. Ljubljana, International Centre of Graphic Arts (ICGA), until 8 February

9+9 Artist’s books and artists

Nine Slovenian artists, Andrejka Čufer, Tanja Lažetić, Marko A. Kovačič, Eva

Gorazd Vilhar: The Divine Detail

Petrič, Petra Petančič, Alenka Pirman, Tadej Pogačar, Sašo Sedlaček and Mlad-

After a quarter of a century living and photographing abroad, Gorazd Vilhar (b.

en Stropnik have produced nine new original projects in nine exhibition halls

1955) is less familiar in Slovenia than he should be. Still, his work is ardently fol-

at the International Centre of Graphic Arts. These projects were created on the

lowed here by an intimate circle of friends and fans. Although his viewfinder has

basis of works selected from an ICGA collection of original publications and art-

been aimed primarily at other parts of the world during those years, his artistic eye

ist’s books. The artist’s book is a 20th century phenomenon, and the extensive

has progressed along the same continuum as it did earlier in Europe. Always known

collection kept by the ICGA features works by some leading exponents of the

for his penchant for wonderful colours and surprising details, this art historian’s

20th century avant-garde: Vito Acconci, Ben, Christian Boltanski, Daniel Buren,

highly iconic vision has become further developed and refined. Even in the eighties

Hanne Darboven, Alfredo Jaar, Lucy Lippard, Mangelos, Annette Messager, the

his photography was so distinctive that any one of his images was easily recogniza-

OHO Group, Iztok Osojnik, Dušan Pirih Hup and Zora Stančič, plus publications

ble as “a Vilhar,” and that remains just as true today. His vast photographic oeuvre,

from museum in progress, the newspaper Point d'Ironie and so forth. The invited

focusing largely on Japan, unveils the traditions and beauty of that rich and often

artists have used the exhibition to create new approaches to understanding the

mysterious Eastern culture in great depth and artistry.

artist’s book and interpreting the museum collection. www.cd-cc.si

www.mglc-lj.si

{ Art & Culture } Uroš Weinberger: BTC, 2009, olje na platnu, 191x301 cm

Ljubljana, Prirodoslovni muzej Slovenije, do 9. februarja

Kraljestvo Tetide – okamneli svet triasnih vretenčarjev Kamniško-Savinjskih Alp.

Pred približno 240 milijoni let, v triasu, najstarejšem obdobju Zemljinega srednjega veka, je na območju, kjer se danes dvigajo Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe, valovilo toplo morje. Njegova gladina se je skozi milijone let spreminjala, kar je ostalo zapisano tudi v kamninah. V njih so skriti tudi ostanki takratnega življenja. Trias se je začel z veliko katastrofo, ki je povzročila izumrtje velike večine takrat živečih vrst organizmov. Izpraznjene ekološke niše so ponudile možnost za evolucijski razvoj novih oblik življenja. V triasu so se tako razvili vsi pomembnejši gradniki, ki sestavljajo današnje ekosisteme. Paleontološke in geološke raziskave so tako poleg fosilnih ostankov kačjerepov, morskih lilij, rakov in drugih nevretenčarjev odkrile tudi edinstvena nahajališča triasnih rib in morskih plazilcev, kot so notozavri, ihtiozavri in drugi. Avtorji razstave so Tomaž Hiti, mag. Matija Križnar, dr. Jure Žalohar in dr. Bogomir Celarc. Ljubljana, Natural Science Museum of Slovenia, until 9 February

The Kingdom of Tethys

The Kingdom of Tethys – a fossilised world of Triassic vertebrates from the Kamnik-Savinja Alps approximately 240 million years old, in the Triassic, the earliest period of the Mesozoic Era – lies in an area where today the Kamnik-Savinja Alps rise high, but at one time it was covered by a warm sea. Over millions of years its surface changed, and what remains is now recorded in stone. Concealed in the stone are also the remains of life from that time. The Triassic began with a great catastrophe, which caused the extinction of the great majority of the species of

Portorož, Obalne galerije, razstavišče Monfort, januar, februar

Figuralno, figurativno, figurabilno Razstava predstavlja del Stalne zbirke, ki nastaja od leta 1980 in obsega slike, risbe in kiparska dela sodobne slovenske likovne umetnosti po letu 1975, ko je umetnostni zgodovinar dr. Tomaž Brejc v ljubljanski Moderni galeriji postavil razstavo slikarjev Toma Podgornika, Andraža Šalamuna in Tuga Šušnika. Razstava predstavlja začetek nove dobe v ustvarjanju mladih umetnikov, pa tudi generacijski prelom s predhodnim modernizmom. Obalne galerije hranijo v svojih depojih več likovnih zbirk, v okviru omenjene Stalne zbirke pa preko šestdeset vrhunskih del, ki jim nacionalni pomen kot umetniški presežek priznavajo tako domači kot tuji strokovnjaki. Tokrat so predstavljena predvsem figuralna dela v okviru sodobnega slovenskega slikarstva (kiparstvo bo na ogled čez nekaj let kot tretja postavitev Stalne zbirke, abstraktno je bilo na vrsti leta 2004) od zgodnje Podgornikove slike do Iva Prančiča, Joni Zakonjšek in Uroša Weinbergerja. Dela iz stalne zbirke bodo dopolnjena z avtorji starejše generacije in z najmlajšimi, ki šele vstopajo v slovenske in tuje galerije. Ob postavitvi v Monfortu, skladišču soli v Portorožu, bo izšla študijska publikacija s študijama priznanih umetnostnih poznavalcev dr. Ješe Denegrija in dr. Miška Šuvakovića z beograjske Univerze, ki redno sodelujeta z našimi galerijami. Izjemno pomemben je namreč »pogled od zunaj«, ki nam Slovencem manjka ne le v slikarstvu in kiparstvu, ampak tudi v literaturi in ostalih umetniških zvrsteh; pogled od zunaj, ki je v resnici »drug pogled« in kritiška ocena umetniškosti naših ustvarjalcev.

organisms that were living then. The vacated ecological niches offered the possibility for the evolutional development of new forms of life. So the Triassic was the period when all the main building blocks of today’s ecosystems developed. In addition to the fossil remains of brittle stars,

Portorož, Coastal Galleries, Monfort exhibition centre, January, February

Figural, figurative, figurable

This exhibition presents part of the Permanent Collection, which has been developing since 1980,

sea lilies, crayfish and other invertebrates, palaeontological and geo-

and comprises paintings, drawings and sculptural work of Slovenian contemporary art since 1975,

logical research has uncovered unique finds of Triassic fish and marine

when the art historian Dr. Tomaž Brejc staged in the Ljubljana Museum of Modern Art an exhibition

reptiles such as nothosaurs and ichthyosaurs.

of the painters Tomo Podgornik, Andraž Šalamun and Tugo Šušnik. That marked the start of a new

The exhibition has been created by Tomaž Hiti, Matija Križnar MSc, Dr. Jure Žalohar and Dr. Bogomirja Celarca.

era in the work of young artists, as well as a generational break with the previous modernism. The Coastal Galleries keep several fine art collections in their repositories, and within the Permanent

www2.pms-lj.si

Collection there are more than sixty outstanding works acknowledged by both Slovenian and international experts as being of national importance in terms of superlative artistic quality. This exhibition presents primarily figural works, in the context of modern Slovenian painting (sculpture will be presented in a few years as the third exhibition from the Permanent Collection, while abstract art was presented in 2004), from an early Podgornik painting to Ivo Prančič, Joni Zakonjšek and Uroš Weinberger. Works from the Permanent Collection will be supplemented by both the older generation and the youngest artists, who are only starting to appear in Slovenian and foreign galleries. In addition to the exhibition at Monfort, a salt warehouse in Portorož, a study book will also

foto: Jure Žalohar

be published, featuring studies by the acclaimed art connoisseurs Dr. Ješa Denegri and Dr. Miško Šuvaković of Belgrade University, who regularly collaborate with Slovenian galleries. Indeed it is extremely important to have a “view from the outside”, something lacking in Slovenia, not just in painting and sculpture, but also in literature and the other arts; a view from the outside that is in truth a “different view” and a critical assessment of the artistic calibre of Slovenian artists. www.haip.cc

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Ljubljana, Narodna galerija, do 13. februarja

Franc Kavčič/Caucig – Antične teme

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Iz obsežnega dela klasicističnega slikarja Franca Kavčiča (Gorica 1755–Dunaj 1828), slikarja slovenskega rodu in dolgoletnega profesorja na dunajski umetniški akademiji, so razstavljene in obdelane umetnine, ki zajemajo grške in rimske mite, Homerjeve in tematsko sorodne pripovedi, antične pripovedi in prizore iz antične zgodovine. Dela so razstavljena tako, da obiskovalec lahko dojame, kako so nastajala. Ob oljni sliki ali osnutku za sliko so razstavljene predpriprave, tj. študije-skice, različice-variante motiva, izvedbe v grafiki ali kot izdelek na porcelanu. Prizori, mnogokrat učeni in neznani, so razloženi ob vsaki sliki ali osnutku. Antični avtorji, po katerih je Kavčič povzemal zgodbe, so predstavljeni v avli z življenjepisi, z njihovo podobo in reprodukcijami Kavčičevih del, ki se nanašajo na posamičnega avtorja. V manjši sobi so v reprodukcijah razstavljena Kavčičeva dela in antične plastike, antični predmeti, arhitekture in Rafaelova dela, po katerih se je Kavčič zgledoval, si jih zapomnil in jih vdelal v svoje umetnine. Med temi so tudi primerki profilov, karakterističnih glav, herojska telesa, plapolajoče halje, iztegnjene roke, frigijske čepice, čelade. Predstavljen je tudi sistem ustvarjanja prostorov in ozadij ter razvrščanja figur in vključevanja narave. Avtorica razstave je dr. Ksenija Rozman.

Ljubljana, National Gallery, until 13 February

Franc Kavčič/Caucig – Topics of Antiquity

The extensive work of classicist painter Franc Kavčič (Gorica 1755 – Vienna 1828), a painter of Slovenian descent and a long-time professor at the Vienna Art Academy, provides the material for an exhibition and consideration of artwork covering

Marko Lipuš: iz serije Fotokartuni, 2008

Ljubljana, Galerija Photon, december, januar

Marko Lipuš, Fotokartuni, do 18. decembra

Polona Demšar, 16432 Auschwitz, od 22. decembra do 20. januarja

Decembra in januarja se v organizaciji Galerije Photon odvijajo tri fotografske razstave. V Galeriji Jakopič je v sodelovanju med Muzejem in galerijami mesta Ljubljane in festivala Fotonični trenutki na ogled pregledna razstava britanske fotografinje Lee Miller. Do 18. decembra je v Galeriji Photon na ogled samostojna razstava umetnika Marka Lipuša, ki se podaja v polje fotografije iz perspektive kolažiranja podob na presečišču med skeniranim in digitalnim fotomaterialom. Razstava 'Fotokartuni' povzema specifično tehniko, mešanico stripov in karikatur, ki odsevajo trenutno razpoloženje in sodobni duh časa. Sledila bo razstava umetnice Polone Demšar z najnovejšo serijo '16432 Auschwitz', ki predstavlja odnos do velikih zgodovinskih tematik iz intimne perspektive njene ožje družine.

Greek and Roman myths, the narratives of Homer and thematically similar stories, tales of Antiquity and scenes from ancient history. The works are exhibited in such a way that the visitor can grasp how they were created. Alongside the oil painting or rough draft of the painting there are the preliminary preparations, the study sketches, variations on the motif, graphic works or products on porcelain. The scenes, often the subject of study and not commonly known, are explained alongside each painting or sketch. The ancient authors from whom Kavčič has taken his stories, are presented in the lobby with biographical details, their image and reproductions of Kavčič’s works relating to the specific author. A small room showcases reproductions of Kavčič’s work and ancient sculptures, objects of Antiquity, architecture and the works of Raphael, upon whom Kavčič modelled his work, memorising him and incorporating him into his own art. There are also specimens of profiles, characteristic heads, heroic bodies, fluttering robes, unattached arms, Phrygian caps and helmets. There is also a presentation of the system of creating spaces, backgrounds, the classification of figures and inclusion of nature. The exhibition has been created by Dr. Ksenija Rozman. www.ng-slo.si

Ljubljana, Photon Gallery, December, January Marko Lipuš, Photocartoons, until 18 December Polona Demšar, 16432 Auschwitz, 22 December to 20 January In December and January three photographic exhibitions are being staged by the Photon Gallery. In the Jakopič Gallery, in cooperation between the Museum and Galleries of the City of Ljubljana and the festival Photonic Moments, there is an overview exhibition of the British photographer Lee Miller. Up until 18 December the Photon Gallery will be staging a solo exhibition of the artist Marko Lipuš, who has entered the field of photography from the perspective of collaging images at the juncture between scanned and digital photomaterial. The exhibition Photocartoons (Fotokartuni) draws on a specific technique, a mixture of comic strip and caricature, which reflects the mood and contemporary spirit of the times. This will be followed by an exhibition of the artist Polona Demšar with her latest series '16432 Auschwitz', which presents the attitude to major historical topics from the intimate perspective of her close family. www.photon.si

{ Art & Culture } spektivno in obsežno posveča avantgardnemu animiranemu filmu, fokusira na nemško animirano produkcijo in predstavlja manjši fokus na japonsko sodobno animacijo. Letošnja novost je tudi Evropski študentski tekmovalni program. Prav posebna bo projekcija prvega celovečernega evropskega animiranega filma Dogodivščine princa Ahmeda (1926), pospremljena z živo glasbeno spremljavo skladatelja Andreja Goričarja na klavirju. V Slovenskem etnografskem muzeju pa se bo z decembrom odprla večmedijska razstava velikega in pomembnega francoskega studia animiranega filma Folimage – od začetkov dalje: vodič po francoskem studiu animiranega filma. Razstava prikazuje faze razvoja studia skozi zgodovino in njegovo produkcijsko strukturo. Ljubljana, Kinodvor, Slovenska kinoteka, 6 to 12 December Maribor, Kino Udarnik, 16 to 18 December Ljubljana, Slovene Ethnographic Museum, until 21 December

7th International Festival of Animated Film, Animateka

Animateka, the 7th International Festival of Animated Film, will present around 400

Ljubljana, Kinodvor, Slovenska kinoteka, od 6. do 12. decembra Maribor, Kino Udarnik, od 16. do 18. decembra Ljubljana, Slovenski etnografski muzej, do 21. decembra

7. Mednarodni festival animiranega filma Animateka

Na 7. Mednarodnem festivalu animiranega filma Animateka bodo predstavili okoli 400 animiranih filmov, med njimi 6 celovečernih. Tudi letos ponuja Animateka pester spremljevalni program, 5 likovnih razstav in 3 avdio-vizualne dogodke. Poleg tradicionalnega Tekmovalnega programa kratkih animiranih filmov iz Srednje in Vzhodne Evrope, Tekmovalnega mednarodnega programa Slon za otroke in mladino ter programa Svetovni jagodni izbor se Animateka letos retro-

animated films, including six full-length features. This year, too, Animateka offers a rich accompanying programme, with five art exhibitions and three audio-visual events. Alongside the traditional Competition Programme of short animated films from Central and Eastern Europe, the Elephant competitive international programme for children and youth and the programme World Strawberry Selection, this year Animateka is focused retrospectively and comprehensively on avant-garde animated film and on German animated productions, and is also shining a brief spotlight on Japanese contemporary animation. A new feature this year is the European Student Competition Programme. And a special treat is in store in the form of a screening of the first full-length European animated film, The Adventures of Prince Achmed (1926), accompanied live on the piano by the composer Andrej Goričar. In December, meanwhile, the Slovene Ethnographic Museum will open a multimedia exhibition of the great and influential French animated film studio Folimage – from the beginnings: a guide to the French animated film studio. The exhibition shows the studio’s historical phases of development and its production structure. www.animateka.si, www.etno-muzej.si

Otvoritev razstave Slovenia Press Photo 2010 v Tel Avivu

Slovenia Press Photo 2010

Razstava zmagovalcev in častnih omemb natečaja Slovenia Press Photo, ki zajema 59 del, bo od 16. decembra dalje na ogled v prvem centru dokumentarne fotografije na Bližnjem vzhodu, imenovanem DocuClub, ki je lociran v Tel Avivu. Center vodi dobitnik Pulitzerjeve nagrade za fotografijo, Oded Balilty, ki je bil tudi član letošnje mednarodne žirije natečaja Slovenia Press Photo, sicer pa je fotoreporter agencije AP Associated Press v Izraelu. Slovenia Press Photo exhibition at the DocuClub in Tel Aviv, 16 December

Slovenia Press Photo 2010

An exhibition of the winners and honorary mentions from the Slovenia Press Photo competition, comprising 59 works, is open to the public at the first centre for documentary photography in the Middle East, called the DocuClub, in Tel Aviv. The centre is run by the recipient of the Pulitzer Prize for photography, Oded Balilty, who was also a member of this year’s international jury for the Slovenia Press Photo competition, and who works as a photojournalist for the Associated Press (AP) agency in Israel.

www.sloveniapressphoto.si, www.docuclub.co.il

Foto: Jure Eržen/DELO

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Postojna, od 25. decembra do 2. januarja

Jaslice

Celje, Galerija Plevnik–Kronkowska, do 14. decembra

Manja Vadla: Alpen Von Blond ( 16 )

Multimedijski projekt Alpen von Blond: The Return avtorice Manje Vadla je drugi, nadaljevalni del lani začetega projekta It's Time for Revolution: Part I./Death 2008. Če je prvi del projekta predstavljal moškost in moške v vsej njihovi nezmožnosti, nemoči, pasivnosti, feminilnosti in bolehnosti, je pričujoča postavitev odgovor prvemu delu. Tudi ta projekt zaznamuje totaliteta scenografske postavitve, le da tokrat namesto črnega, težkega prevladuje njegov protipol – svetlo, lahkotno vzdušje. Avtorica privede na plano Alpen von Blond, fiktivno junakinjo, dolgolaso, prsato in kleno mlado žensko iz alpskega območja – mokre sanje moškega sveta. Zanjo je prostor spremenjen v medijski prostor, prostor politične manifestacije, neke vrste volilni štab, ki transparentno kaže celoten razpon volilnih sloganov, plakatov in ostalega cenenega oglaševalskega blaga, ki ponavadi kot nujna krama spremlja volilne kampanje. Matija Plevnik piše, da Vadla s površinskostjo videza obiskovalca načrtno provocira. Tako kot je površinsko plehek kič, takšen je tudi pokroviteljski odnos do ženske (karikature idealizirane togosti) v moških očeh. Vendar ženska to navidezno šibkost izkoristi sebi v prid, saj s svojim nastopom razrešuje preteklo patriarhalno ureditev družbe in predimenzionirano enostransko emocionalnost.

Že dobri dve desetletji je ob v čarobnem decembrskem času – skoraj kot protiutež hrupnega pričakovanja novega leta – v najlepših kapniških prostorih Postojnske jame nanizana svetopisemska zgodba o Jezusovem rojstvu. Obiskovalci si prizore Jaslic – od Marijinega oznanjenja pa vse do prihoda svetih treh kraljev – lahko ogledajo ob sproščenem sprehodu skozi postojnsko podzemlje, kjer intimna svetloba in umetniško interpretirana melodija, pa tudi z gorečnostjo zapeta pesem iz grl otroškega zbora vzbudijo posebne občutke. V prizorih Jaslic nastopajo mladi iz Postojne in okolice, vsako leto pa se jim pridruži okrog štirideset pevskih skupin iz drugih krajev Slovenije in zamejstva. K dobremu razpoloženju seveda pripomore zakurjeno ognjišče pred Postojnsko jamo, kjer se eni le pogrejejo, drugi pa na stojnicah božičnega sejma izbirajo darila za svoje bližnje. Dogajanje dopolnjujejo prireditve za otroke, kjer se veselo prednovoletno rajanje nadaljuje. Postojna, 25 December to 2 January

Christmas Nativity scenes

For over two decades, during the magical time of December – and almost as a counterweight to the rowdy anticipation of the New Year – the exquisite dripstone settings of Postojna Cave have provided the backdrop for a portrayal of the Bible story of Jesus’s birth. Visitors can view the Nativity scenes – from the Annunciation right up to the arrival of the Three Kings – in a relaxed stroll through the Postojna underworld, where intimate lighting and artistically performed melodies, as well as the passionate singing by a children’s choir, arouse special emotions. The portrayal of the Nativity scenes involves young people from Postojna and the surrounding area, and they are joined each year by around 40 choral groups from other parts of Slovenia and abroad. The great mood is of course enhanced by the fires burning in front of Postojna Cave, where some just choose to warm themselves, while others select gifts for their nearest and dearest at the Christmas Fair stands.

Celje, Plevnik-Kronkowska Gallery, until 14 December

Manja Vadla: Alpen Von Blond

The multimedia project Alpen Von Blond: The Return, by Manja Vadla, is the second instalment of the project started last year and entitled It's Time for Revolution: Part I./ Death 2008. Where the first part of the project was all about masculinity and men in all their incapacity, helplessness, passivity, femininity and infirmity, then the present installation serves as a response to it. The current project, too, is characterised by the totality of the staging design, except that this time the black, heavy atmosphere is replaced by its antipode – a light and light-hearted one. The artist brings to light a fictional character called Alpen von Blond, a long-haired, bigbreasted and sturdy young woman from the Alpine area, every man's wet dream. For her, the space itself is altered into a media space, a space of political manifestation, a sort of election headquarters, transparently showing a full range of election slogans, posters and other cheap advertising materials, the indispensable junk that accompanies every election campaign. Matija Plevnik writes that Vadla deliberately provokes the audience with the superficiality of what is seen. Just as the kitsch is superficially vapid, so too is the patronising attitude towards women (the caricature of idealised rigidity) in male eyes. Yet women exploit this apparent weakness for their own advantage, and their appearance dismisses the past patriarchal social order and the excessive, one-sided emotionality.

Supplementing the events is a programme for children, which keeps the happy pre-New Year partying in full swing.

www.turizem-kras.si

{ Art & Culture }

Praznične prireditve decembra v Ljubljani

December je mesec, v katerem Ljubljana še posebej zažari. Ne le zaradi izvirne svetlobne okrasitve mesta, ki že sama po sebi privablja številne obiskovalce, ampak tudi zaradi pestrega, zanimivega in vsako leto malo drugačnega programa, ki poteka na ljubljanskih ulicah ter trgih. Številni prebivalci Ljubljane in obiskovalci iz drugih delov Slovenje ter tujine pa so tisti, ki Ljubljano naredijo tako zelo posebno. Nasmejani obrazi, stiski rok in lepe želje, vonj po kuhanem vinu in praženih mandeljnih, nostalgični lajnarji na ulicah, iskrice pričakovanj v očeh naših najmlajših … vse to je december v Ljubljani. Za letošnji december smo pripravili privlačne novosti, zaradi katerih bo obisk mestnega središča še posebej lepo doživetje. Del prazničnega sejma se seli na Breg in tako je vzpostavljena prava »praznična promenada« od osrednje ljubljanske tržnice, preko Prešernovega trga, Cankarjevega nabrežja do Brega (do začetka novega leta). Sejem bo tudi na Pogačarjevem trgu. Tradicionalno sejemsko ponudbo bo dopolnil praznični knjižni sejem na Mestnem trgu (od 18. do 31. decembra), posebno zanimivo pa bo tudi na novem Mesarskem mostu, kjer so predvideli nastope uličnih gledališč. V Mestni hiši bodo jaslice, pred njo bo vsak večer dobra vila. K prazničnemu vzdušju v starem delu mesta bodo z nastopom prispevali tudi otroški glasovi osnovnošolskih pevskih zborčkov. Na Mestnem trgu bo božični koncert, od 26. do 30. decembra pa se bo z daljnega severa v svoji kočiji v Ljubljano pripeljal Dedek Mraz. Na Prešernovem trgu se bodo zadnje dni v letu zvrstile lutkovne, cirkuške in plesne predstave ter nastopi čarodejev, otroške prireditve bodo tudi na Novem trgu. Te dni bo Mesarski most prizorišče živahnega in pisanega sporeda uličnih dogodkov. Na Pogačarjevem trgu bodo nastopili slovenski glasbeniki popularne in narodno-zabavne glasbe. Silvestrovanje bo organizirano na Prešernovem trgu, Novem trgu, Mestnem in Pogačarjevem trgu ter na Trgu francoske revolucije. Ognjemet bo minuto po polnoči z Ljubljanskega gradu razsvetlil nebo nad Ljubljano in oznanil vstop v novo leto.

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Festive Events in Ljubljana in December

December is the month when Ljubljana takes on a special glow. This is not just from the city’s original lighting decorations, which on their own draw plenty of visitors, but also from the colourful and fascinating – and every year slightly different – programme provided in Ljubljana’s streets and squares. But it is the countless residents of Ljubljana and visitors from other parts of Slovenia and from abroad that make Ljubljana so very special. Smiling faces, handshakes and good wishes, the aroma of mulled wine and roasted almonds, old-time organ grinders in the streets, flashes of anticipation in the eyes of our youngest ones … all this is December in Ljubljana. Some attractive new features have been prepared for December 2010, and this will make a visit to the city centre an especially enjoyable experience. Part of the Festive Fair is being moved to Breg, and this will mean a proper “festive promenade” from the main Ljubljana market, via Prešernov trg square and along the Cankarjevo nabrežje embankment to the Breg embankment (until the start of the New Year). The Fair will also be in Pogačarjev trg square. The traditional Fair products will be supplemented by a Festive Book Fair in Mestni trg square (from 18 to 31 December), while there will also be some excitement on the new Mesarski most bridge, which will be the venue for street theatre. The City Hall will feature a Christmas Nativity scene, and in front of it every evening will be the Good Fairy. In the old part of the city, the festive atmosphere will be enhanced by the children’s voices of primary school choirs. The square of Mestni trg will feature a Christmas concert, and from 26 to 30 December Grandpa Frost (Slovenia’s Santa Claus) will be riding into Ljubljana on his carriage from the far north. In Prešernov trg square the final days of the year will feature puppet, circus and dance performances and shows by wizards, while there will also be children’s events in Novi trg square. At the same time, the Mesarski most bridge will be the scene of a lively and colourful programme of street events. Pogačarjev trg square will feature Slovenian musicians playing popular and folk-pop tunes. Celebrations to see in the New Year will be organised in the squares of Prešernov trg, Novi trg, Mestni trg, Pogačarjev trg and Trg francoske revolucije. One minute after midnight, fireworks from Ljubljana Castle will light up the skies over Ljubljana and signal the start of the New Year.

www.visitljubljana.si

{ Umetnost & kultura / Art & Culture }

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London, Barbican Art Gallery 30 let japonske mode Do 6. februarja 30 let japonske mode je prva razstava v Evropi, ki ponuja celovit pregled avantgardne japonske mode od začetka osemdesetih let prejšnjega stoletja do danes. Pripravila jo je ugledna japonska modna zgodovinarka Akiko Fukai, direktorica Instituta kostumov v Kjotu, raziskuje pa edinstveno rahločutnost japonskega oblikovanja in občutek za lepoto, ujet v oblačila. Japonska moda je imela proti koncu 20. stoletja izjemen vpliv na svetovno modno sceno in oblikovalci, kot so Isej Mijake, Rei Kavakubo in Johdži Jamamoto, so ponovno opredelili same temelje mode. Njihova dela so razstavljena skupaj s kreacijami Kavakubovega varovanca, tehno kreatorja Džunje Vatanabeja, zelo cenjenega Džuna Takahašija in nove generacije radikalnih oblikovalcev, med katerimi so Tao Kurihara, Fumito Ganrju, Matohu, Akira Naka, Mina Perhonen in Mintdesigns.

Stockholm, Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde Zornove mojstrovine Do 23. januarja Anders Zorn je nedvomno eden najuspešnejših švedskih slikarjev vseh časov. Letos praznujejo 150. obletnico njegovega rojstva. Razstava je po mnogih letih prva priložnost za ogled približno osemdesetih umetnikovih del, od katerih so nekatera pomembna izposojena iz tujine. Portreta Les Demoiselles Schwartz, izposojen iz pariškega muzeja Musée d'Orsay, in Cristina Morphy iz Prada v Madridu sta le dva primera najboljših Zornovih akvarelov. Anders Zorn (1860–1920) je odraščal na kmetiji svojih starih staršev po materini strani v Mori v Dalecarlii. Dandanes se njegovo ime morda še nabolj povezuje s prizori iz njegove rodne Dalecarlie, toda slavo in bogastvo so mu prinesli predvsem portreti. Kot portretist je imel Zorn edinstven položaj, kajti ljudje, ki jih je upodabljal, so bili iz najvišjih razredov družbe – člani kraljevih družin, finančni mogotci in predsedniki.

Istanbul, Istanbul Modern Kutlug Ataman: Sovražnik v meni Do 6. marca Kutlug Ataman je bil prvič resneje opažen s svojim prispevkom za mednarodni bienale v Istanbulu leta 1997. Pozneje je naredil uspešno mednarodno kariero z razstavami v uglednih muzejih in s sodelovanjem na bienalih po vsem svetu. Atamanovi videi in filmska dela dokumentirajo življenja marginaliziranih posameznikov, ki izrecno izražajo svoje obsedenosti, odnose z mikro in makro strukturami moči ter odkrito verbalizirajo svoje skrite težave ali seksualnost. Ataman tako razlaga svoje nagnjenje do tovrstnih likov: »Ne zanima me, da bi razgaljal te ljudi in jih razkazoval. Delam le z ljudmi, v katerih vidim samega sebe.« Sovražnik v meni prvič v širokopoteznem prikazu združuje Atamanove video instalacije. Razstava je retrospektivne narave.

Köbenhavn, Statens Museum for Kunst Bob Dylan: Brazilska zbirka Do 30. januarja Bob Dylan je med potovanjem po Braziliji zabeležil svoje vtise in misli, ljudi, dogodke in kraje v številnih risbah. Ko se je vrnil v ZDA, so mnogi od teh listov papirja postali podlaga za Brazilsko zbirko. Ta razstava prinaša popolnoma nov vidik dela ene ključnih kulturnih osebnosti 20. stoletja. Razstavljenih je 40 novih, še nikoli videnih slik, ki jih je Bob Dylan ustvaril posebej za to priložnost. Dylan je kot vizualni umetnik aktiven že vse od šestdesetih let prejšnjega stoletja, ali kot je sam dejal: »Od nekdaj slikam. Slikanja se tako ali drugače oklepam že od zdavnaj.« V Brazilski zbirki Dylan ponazori svoj izjemni dar opazovanja. S podobami nam pripoveduje zgodbe, od vsakdanjih in opisnih pa vse do nasilno dramatičnih, ki vključujejo močne elemente pripovedi. Zgodbe iz Brazilije dosegajo gledalca skozi špranje, ki jih razpira sam umetnik; vsaka podrobnost dodaja kakšen nov vidik celotnemu potovanju, kamor nas povabi Dylan.

London, Barbican Art Gallery Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion Until 6 February Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion is the first exhibition in Europe to comprehensively survey avantgarde Japanese fashion, from the early 1980s to the present. Curated by the eminent Japanese fashion historian Akiko Fukai, Director of the Kyoto Costume Institute, the exhibition explores the unique sensibility of Japanese design, and its sense of beauty embodied in clothing. Japanese fashion made an enormous impact on the world fashion scene in the late 20th century, and designers such as Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto redefined the very basis of fashion. Their works are shown alongside Kawakubo’s protégé, the technocouturier Junya Watanabe, together with the acclaimed Jun Takahashi, and the new generation of radical designers including Tao Kurihara, Fumito Ganryu, Matohu, Akira Naka, Mina Perhonen and Mintdesigns.

Stockholm, Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde Zorn Masterpieces Until 23 January Anders Zorn (1860–1920) is arguably Sweden's most successful ever painter. This year marks the 150th anniversary of his birth. This exhibition is the first opportunity in a number of years to experience some 80 works by the artist, including several important international loans. The portraits Les Demoiselles Schwartz, on loan from the Musée d'Orsay in Paris, and Cristina Morphy, from the Prado in Madrid, are two of the best examples of Zorn as a watercolourist. Zorn grew up on his maternal grandparents' farm in Mora in Dalecarlia, in central Sweden. Today we perhaps associate his name mainly with depictions of his native region, but it was his portraits that won him fame and fortune. As a portrait painter, Zorn held a unique position, with his subjects coming from the highest strata of society, including royalty, finance magnates and presidents.

Istanbul, Istanbul Modern Kutlug Ataman: The Enemy Inside Me Until 6 March Kutlug Ataman first rose to prominence with his contribution to the 1997 International Istanbul Biennial. He has since pursued a successful international career with exhibitions in distinguished museums and contributions to biennials around the world. Ataman’s video and film works document the lives of marginalised individuals who explicitly give voice to their own obsessions, their relations with micro- and macro-power structures and straightforwardly verbalise their subconscious issues or sexuality. “I am not interested in exposing these people and turning them into a show. I only work with people that I see myself in,” he explains. This exhibition brings together Ataman’s video installations for the first time in a large-scale show. It is a midcareer retrospective.

Copenhagen, Statens Museum for Kunst Bob Dylan, The Brazil Series Till 30 January Bob Dylan recorded his impressions and thoughts while travelling in Brazil, capturing people, events, and places in numerous sketches. Back in the US, a fraction of these many scraps served as the basis of The Brazil Series. This exhibition presents a whole new aspect of the work of one of the 20th century's key cultural personalities. It presents 40 new paintings created specifically for the exhibition. Dylan has been active as a visual artist since the 1960s, or, as he himself puts it: “I have always painted. I have always held on to that one way or another.” In The Brazil Series, Dylan demonstrates his phenomenal powers of observation. He uses the images to tell us stories that range from the everyday and the descriptive to the violently dramatic, incorporating strong elements of narrative. These stories from Brazil flow out to reach us from the cracks opened by the artist; each fragment adding another aspect to the journey he invites us to take.

{ Adrijina potnica }

Marjanca Jemec Božič ilustratorka in humanistka Besedilo: Grega Bulc

Fotografije: Igor Škafar

tirikrat je bila izbrana na mednarodnih Unicefovih natečajih za najbolj prikupne novoletne čestitke. Izvirnik njene slovite voščilnice Otroci na vasi hranijo Združeni narodi, čeprav sama ne ve natančno, kje. Ilustratorka in humanistka Marjanca Jemec Božič, žlahtni letnik '28, ki meni v veselje ne mara vnaprej poslanih vprašanj,

je tako sproščena in simpatična sogovornica, da že dolgo ne takšne. Na likovno akademijo je hodila, ko še ni bilo

( 34 ) oddelka za ilustracijo. Če primerja revije takrat in danes, se ji zde tedanje, »kot da bi Sibirijo gledala«, a vseeno ne

uporablja računalnika. Čeprav vzgojena v katoliški veri, ji je domala tuje risati krščansko ikonografijo, saj se težko vživi v takšne zgodbe. Ko jo vprašam po božiču v času partije, se hudomušno pošali, da je že pred vojno doma odraščala s praznovanjem božiča, potem se je pa še z Božičem poročila, tako da ga je povsem samoumevno imela tudi v socializmu – in to vsak dan. Pravi, da ne dela več toliko kot prej, da se imata raje z možem »fletn'«. Na njeni delovni mizi leži še nedokončana risba, tri račke, za zbirko otroških pesmi Nika Grafenaverja, ki bo izšla ob pesnikovi sedemdesetletnici.

Vem, da ste že kot otrok spoznali, da vam gre risanje odlično od rok in ste komu kaj narisali, kar tako, za spomin. Zanima pa me, če so vas sovrstniki kdaj prosili, da narišete kakšno »packarijo«, kaj erotičnega?

Ne, veste, to je pa bolj stvar današnjih časov. Danes imaš v vsaki reviji goloto. V mojih časih pa ni bilo ničesar. Je pa najbrž domišljija zato toliko bolj delala? Ja, saj je bilo najbrž ravno to »fajn«. Danes iz teh kioskov kar butajo gola telesa, in ko odpreš televizijo, je vse golo. To sploh ni več nič takšnega. Mi smo bili drugače vzgojeni. Samo mogoče je bilo pa zato malo več … (po kratkem premisleku) – šarma. Če pa pomislim na mladost naših staršev, ko so nosili »kikle« do tal, potem je bilo pa že nekaj, če si le gleženj pokazal. Ampak iti nazaj v času, je težko. Erotike ne more nekdo kar prepovedati. To je nemogoče. Razmišljam, koliko pomembnih ljudi morate poznati, saj ste tako rekoč za vsakega, ki v Sloveniji na literarnem področju kaj šteje, ilustrirali.

To je pa skorajda res. Ja, dolgo sem že na svetu, dolgo (prešeren nasmeh). Ilustrirati sem začela že med akademijo. Na začetku si vesel

vsakega dela, ki ga dobiš. Tako smo bili veseli, da se nam je zdelo skoraj grdo, da bi šli po plačilo, kar je danes povsem nerazumljivo. Povsem (smeh)! Časi so se spremenili. Tudi otroci so se spremenili. Čeprav opažam pri svojem vnuku, da se kljub številnim medijem in robotom, ki streljajo z laserskimi žarki, z lahkoto potopi v takšne preproste zgodbe, kot jih sama rišem. Vseeno mislim, da je v vsakem otroku nekakšen liričen duh, da rabi tudi malo nežnosti in lepote. Saj mu za uspavanko ja zapoješ pesem ali zavrtiš muziko, ki ga bo uspavala. Gotovo mu ne predvajaš tistega bum-bum-bum. No, potem bom pa zdaj z veseljem citiral, kako ste pred časom opisali svoje otroštvo: »Uživala sem v grozljivih zgodbah. V takih, da me je bilo potem strah. Sladkobnih pravljic pa nisem marala.« Zdaj vam pa tole dvoje ne gre skupaj, kajne (nagajiv smeh)? Ja, vidite, ampak sama sem bila kot otrok točno takšna. No, saj ni bil to ves moj svet, ampak sladkobnih, pocukranih zgodb pa res nisem marala. Najbrž sem preveč realističen in vesel človek. Tiste sladkobne zgodbe pa niso vesele. Sentimentalne so. In to mi je bilo tuje.

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Zanimivo je, da pravite zase, da ste realistični in veseli obenem. Nekateri v šali rečejo, da so pesimisti realisti, ki so spoznali, kako svet deluje.

Ne, ne, to je zafrkavanje in ne drži. Prepričana sem, da vedno obstajajo, enako kot v umetnosti, vzponi in padci. Tako mislim, da smo se z današnjim načinom življenja spustili precej navzdol, a sem prepričana, da bo moralo iti zopet navzgor. Kajti nemogoče se mi zdi, da bi bilo vse v redu, ko ljudje pošteno delajo in za svoje delo ne dobijo zasluženega plačila. Na slabše ne more iti. V nasprotnem primeru se lahko le vprašamo, kaj bo potem. Takrat so ponavadi revolucije. Povejte, kako ste doživljali življenje v okupirani Ljubljani med drugo vojno.

Vsi otroci v družini smo bili premladi, da bi kdo »gor plačal« s tem, da bi ga pobasali in bi moral oditi v vojno. Oče pa nam je umrl že pred tem, ko sem imela komaj tri leta. Spomnim se alarmov. Veste, za vsak alarm sem si na list, ki sem ga pred dvema letoma zopet našla, z drobnimi številkami zapisovala datum in čas trajanja alarmov. Jasno, za nas otroke je bilo to takrat zanimivo, pa še šole zato ni bilo. Sicer se pa vojne najbolj spominjam po tem, da smo bili lačni. Lakoto poznam. Zato sem se tudi vedno z veseljem odzvala povabilu na natečaje za Unicefove voščilnice.

Če lahko le za enega otroka, kaj šele za več otrok, kaj lepega naredim, sem vesela. Leta 1974 je vaša ilustracija krasila najbolje prodajano Unicefovo voščilnico na svetu. Kako je sploh potekal izbor, je bilo iz Slovenije izbranih več umetnikov? Tisto leto so izbrali dve deli Marlenke Stupica in mene. Nekdo iz glavnega urada ZN je prišel v Slovenijo in nam razložil, kakšni motivi naj bi zanimali ves svet. Moram pa povedati, da se sama nisem takrat čisto nič ozirala na to. Spomnim se, da je bil takrat moj mož ravno v Peruju. Mojo voščilnico je v tamkajšnji trgovini prej videl kot jaz v tukajšnjih. Še danes mi ne gre v glavo, da je doživela tak uspeh po vsem svetu, v tako različnih krajih in kulturah. Mogoče ravno zato, ker sem jo šla delat brez pretenzij, da bi ne-vem-kaj naredila. Zajela sem pač nekaj iz svojih spominov na otroštvo. Sicer pa sam izbor ni potekal v Ljubljani, temveč najprej v Ženevi, nato pa v New Yorku. No, hvala bogu, še dobro …

Ja, ja, razveseljivo, drži.

{ Adria Passenger } Kako gledate na današnjo solidarnost med ljudmi v primerjavi s solidarnostjo nekoč.

Hja, danes gre za akcije: če pokličeš na številko, gre toliko in toliko v ta namen in tako se danes »zbira solidarnost«. Toda to ni solidarnost, kot smo jo včasih poznali. No, saj so tudi danes ljudje, ki bi pomagali nekomu, ki ga vidijo na ulici v težavah, kot svojemu bližnjemu, čeprav je tega mnogo manj kot nekoč. To je ta žalost današnjega časa, ko ne moreš več nikomur zaupati. Mislite, da humanitarne akcije niso učinkovite? Veste, človek nikdar ni čisto prepričan, da gre denar res tja, kamor bi moral iti, da tja res pride, da je tisti namen resnično dosežen. Jaz zato

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Marjanca Jemec Božič

Illustrator and humanist Text: Grega Bulc

Photography: Igor Škafar

She has been selected four times in the international Unicef competitions for the most attractive season’s greetings cards. The original of her famous card Children in the Village [Otroci na vasi] is kept at the United Nations, although she herself does not know exactly where. The illustrator and humanist Marjanca Jemec Božič, a noble product of the year 1928, who to my great joy does not care for questions submitted in advance, is the most relaxed and pleasant companion I have interviewed in a long time. She attended the fine-art academy, when there was still no illustration department. If she compares magazines then and nowadays, the old ones seem to her “as if I was looking at Siberia”, but she still does not use a computer. Although she was raised in the Catholic faith, it feels a little alien to her to draw Christian iconography, since she finds it hard to relate to such stories. When I ask her about Christmas – the Slovenian word for Christmas is Božič – during the Communist period, she jokes mischievously that before the war, she grew up celebrating Christmas, then after the war she married a Božič (Christmas!), so naturally she also enjoyed it under socialism – every day. She says she no longer works as much as she used to, preferring just to enjoy sweet days with her husband. On her desk lies an unfinished drawing, three ducks, for a collection of children’s poems by Niko Grafenauer, which is due to be published for the poet’s 70th birthday.

veliko raje dam za neko konkretno stvar kot pa tako na splošno. No, Unicefove voščilnice so druga stvar. Ampak mar po drugi strani niso ravno največje humanitarne organizacije najbolj problematične, ker so tako zbirokratizirane? Veste, kaj, mi slikarji za Unicefove voščilnice ne dobimo plačila, pri tem pa iskreno verjamem, da velik del prihodka od prodanih voščilnic resnično pride do otrok, ki to pomoč potrebujejo.

I know that even as a child you recognised that you had a real knack for drawing, and would draw things for people, just as mementos. I wonder if any of your peers have asked you to draw anything “crude”, anything erotic?

No, you know that’s more a thing of the present day. Today there’s nudity in every single magazine. In my day there was nothing. So did this mean your imagination was all the more effective?

Yes, it was very good no doubt for that reason. Nowadays naked bodies are just bursting out of those magazine stands, and when you turn on the TV, it’s all naked. It’s all quite meaningless now. We were raised differently. This meant the only thing that was allowed was a little more … (she considers briefly) … charm. And if I think about the younger days of our parents, when they wore skirts down to the floor, it was quite something just to show an ankle. But it’s hard going back in time. No one can just prohibit eroticism. That’s impossible. I wonder how many important people you must know, since you have illustrated in effect for everyone who counts for anything in Slovenia’s literary circles. That’s just about the truth. Yes, I’ve been quite a long time in the world, a long time (adding a jolly laugh). I started illustrating while I was still at the academy. At the beginning you’re happy with any work you get. We were so happy that it seemed almost unpleasant to want payment for it, something that seems completely incomprehensible today. Completely! (laughter) Times have changed. Even children have changed. Although I’ve noticed with my own grandson, that in spite of all the different media and the robots firing laser beams, he can easily immerse himself in the kind of simple story that I draw. I still think that in every child there is a kind of lyrical soul that needs a little gentleness and beauty. When it’s lullaby time you sing a song or play music that will send him to sleep. You certainly don’t play him that boom-boom-boom stuff. So now I’ll gladly quote how you once described your childhood. “I enjoyed horrible stories. The kind that made me scared afterwards. I didn’t like sugary fairy-tales.”

So now the two don’t go together for you, do they? (Teasing laughter) Yes, so you see, but as a child that’s exactly how I was. Well, that wasn’t my entire world, but I really didn’t like sugary, saccharine stories. I was

probably too much of a realistic and joyful person. And those sugary stories are not joyful. They’re sentimental. And that was alien to me. It’s interesting to hear you say of yourself that you’re both realistic and joyful. Some people joke that pessimists are realists who have found out how the world works.

No, no, that’s just fooling around and it isn’t true. I am certain that there are always ups and downs, just like in art. So I think that with the modern way of life we have let ourselves go too far down, but I’m sure that it will have to go up again. After all it seems impossible to me for everything to be fine when people work honestly and they don’t get the wages they have earned. It can’t get any worse. Otherwise, we can only ask ourselves, what next? And then there are usually revolutions.

didn’t actually pay any attention to that myself. I remember that right at that time my husband was in Peru. He saw my greetings card in a shop there even before I saw it in the shops here. I still haven’t really got my head around the fact that it was so successful around the world, in such differing locations and cultures. Perhaps precisely because I set out to do it without any pretension that I was doing something big. I drew from my own memories of childhood. And the selection itself didn’t take place in Ljubljana, but first in Geneva and then New York. Well thank goodness it did…

Yes, it was delightful, it’s true. How do you view the solidarity between people today compared to how it used to be?

Tell me how you experienced life in occupied Ljubljana during the Second World War.

All of us children in the family were too young to “pay the price” by having to pack up and go off to the war. And our father died before, when I was three years old. I remember the sirens. You know, for every siren that went off, I noted down in tiny numbers the date and duration of the air raid warning on a piece of paper that I just found again two years ago. Obviously at the time it was fascinating for us children, plus there was no school. Otherwise I remember the war most for the fact that we were hungry. I know hunger. For that reason I have always gladly responded to the invitation to compete for the Unicef greetings cards. If I can do something nice just for one child, let alone for several children, then I’m happy.

Well, today it’s all about campaigns: if you call a number, this or that much goes for that purpose and today we “collect solidarity”. But that’s not solidarity as we once knew it. There are still people today who would help out a person they saw in trouble in the street as if it was someone in their family, but there are far fewer such people today. This is a sad feature of the times, when you can’t trust anyone any more. Do you think that humanitarian actions are not effective?

You know, people are never truly convinced that the money is really going where it should, that it really gets there, and that the point of it is really achieved. So I much prefer to give for some specific thing than just in a general way. Still, the Unicef cards are a different thing.

In 1974 your illustration adorned the best-selling Unicef card in the world.

On the other hand, isn’t it the biggest humanitarian organisations that

How was the selection done, and were several artists from Slovenia chosen?

are the most problematic, because they have such a big bureaucracy?

That year they selected works by Marlenka Stupica and myself. Someone from the main UN office came to Slovenia and explained to us what motifs would be interesting around the world. But I have to say that I

You know what, we artists don’t receive any payment for the Unicef cards, and I sincerely believe that the major portion of revenue from cards sold truly goes to the children that need this help.

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Zakaj Pariz? P

ariz je super zaradi vseh filmov, ki ga opevajo. Super je zaradi Parižanov in njihovega brez-

sramnega uživanja življenja. Brez kančka slabe

vesti si vzamejo čas, jedo težko hrano, kadijo in spijejo kozarec vina. Ali dva. Ženske so skoraj vse brez izjeme v visokih petah. Joie de vivre imajo v krvi in za nič na svetu se ne odpovedo svojim navadam, ki predstavljajo center njihovega socialnega in družabnega življenja. Pariz je super zaradi vseh skritih kotičkov in nepričakovanih videzov, ki jih mesto ponuja.

Besedilo: Feliks Rainer

Fotografije: Špela Kasal–Berlet

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{ Pariz }

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aradi intimnih parkov, kjer lahko brez skrbi ubijate čas, imate piknik ali počnete karkoli že. Monceau je gotovo eden najbolj skritih in chic parkov. Sanjski park v luksuznem 17. pariškem okrožju, kamor je postavljen začetek kontroverzne Zgodbe o O, Pauline Reage. Poleti je kraj za počitek in branje, kasneje za srečanja in aperitiv ali za poznopopoldanske sprehode in posedanja po klopcah. Pariz je super ob vikendih, ko so ulice polne bolšjih trgov, resnejših brocantov z vrtoglavimi cenami in čudovitimi starinami iz 'spraznjenega podstrešja' – kot radi pravijo, kadar je ni stvari, ki ne bi bila naprodaj. Kavarne ali bistroji, ki se opoldne in zvečer spremenijo v restavracije, so vedno polni. Srečujejo se različni karakterji, sloji in generacije, ki sklepajo posle, jih zaključujejo, berejo ali samo opazujejo življenje, ki teče mimo. Razumljivo je, da si ob obisku Pariza človek zaželi za kratek čas ujeti trenutek njihovega življenja, si naročiti kozarec bordojca ali côtes du rhôna in se potopiti v opazovanje ljudi. Če ste pozorni, lahko prepoznate tri glavne protagoniste današnje pariške družbe. Boboji ali buržujski boemi so srednji do višji sloj prebivalstva; skovanka dobro opisuje mlajši in nekoliko starejši pariški trendovski sloj, ki svoje dobro stoječe korenine skriva za boemskim videzom in skrajno levičarskim simpatizerstvom. Razvili naj bi se iz japijev osemdesetih let in jih danes primerjajo s trendovskimi hipsterji. Tu so še intelektualci in mednarodna modna in umetniška sredina; ti so s svojo ambiciozno kreativnostjo svež veter, ki vedno znova oplaja in z novimi idejami počasi premika stari, konvencionalni Pariz naprej. Pariz je super zaradi dvajsetih pariških okrožij, ki dajejo mestu karakter. Življenje je za odtenek drugačno v vsakem izmed njih. Pariz je super zaradi Place de Concorde; zaradi tedna mode, ki ga štirikrat letno popelje v vrtinec tesno tempiranih modnih revij, zabav in glamurja, ki je za mesto tako nujen. Pariz je super, ker je chic. Pariz je super zaradi vseh knjigarn. Po dozo inspiracije prihajajo ljudje različnih profilov. V knjigarni Ofr se s specializiranim izborom knjig in najnovejših revij o fotografiji in modi tega precej dobro zavedajo. Za knjigarno je galerijski prostor, kjer razstavljajo aktualni fotografi in umetniki. Kot njena alternativa je legendarni Le comptoir des images: do zadnjega kotička s knjigami napolnjena knjigarna za ljubitelje in poznavalce fotografije, umetnosti in mode. Če iščete knjigo in so vsi izvodi razprodani, tukaj brez dvoma eden čaka na vas.

Pariz je super, ker je chic.

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Pariz je super zaradi muzejev in galerij, ki znajo biti odprti tudi vsak dan do polnoči. Kot Palais de Tokyo. Center sodobne umetnosti, (ki ima) s pogledom na Eifflov stolp, restavracijo in galerijsko knjigarno (vse). Če se vam ne mudi, je le nekaj korakov stran vhod v Muzej moderne umetnosti, kjer se trenutno neumorno vije dolga vrsta. Istočasno razstavljata Basquiat in za mlajše od 18 let cenzuriran Larry Clark. In seveda je super zaradi Sene, ki loči Pariz na levo in desno stran. Neslišno teče dan za dnem in noč za nočjo in nosi skozi mesto luči vir neusahljive inspiracije, ki je tu že od nekdaj. In čeprav stari Parižani delijo mesto na levi in desni breg, bo vedno ostalo eno samo in edinstveno ... In še dobro, bi rekel Humphrey Bogart, da bomo vedno imeli Pariz!

{ Pariz }

{ Paris }

Why Paris? Text: Feliks Rainer

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Photography: Špela Kasal-Berlet

aris is wonderful because of all the films that sing its praises. Wonderful because of the Parisians and their unabashed enjoyment of life. Without the slightest trace of guilt, they take their time, eat heavy food, smoke and like a drop of wine. Or two. The women are almost all without exception in high heels. Joie de vivre runs in their veins, and nothing in the world could make them forego their habits, which form the centre of their social life.

Paris is wonderful for all the hidden nooks and unexpected views the city offers. For the intimate parks where you can casually kill time, have a picnic or do whatever. Monceau is certainly one of the most hidden away and chic parks. It is a dreamy park in the luxurious 17th arrondissement, and was the setting for the beginning of the controversial novel Story of O by Pauline Réage. In summer it is a spot for resting and reading, then later for meetings and aperitifs, or for late afternoon walks and sitting on the benches. Paris is wonderful at the weekend, when the streets are full of flea markets and more serious brocantes with dizzying prices and magnificent antiques from ‘loft clearances’ – as they say when absolutely everything is for sale. The cafes and bistros, which serve as restaurants at midday and in the evening, are always full. Diverse characters, strata and generations meet there, negotiating and sealing deals, reading or just watching life go by. It is understandable that when you visit Paris, you might want for a short time to capture a moment of their life, order a glass of Bordeaux or Côtes du Rhône and immerse yourself in peoplewatching. If you observe closely, you can recognise the three main protagonists of modern Parisian society. The bobos, or bourgeois Bohemians, are in the middle to upper class. This is a new term that describes well the younger and slightly older Parisian trendy set, which hides its high-

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{ Paris }

{ Paris } status roots behind a Bohemian appearance and hard-left sympathies. They supposedly evolved from the yuppies of the eighties, and are compared nowadays to the trendy hipsters. There are also the intellectuals and international fashion and art circles, which are a breath of fresh air with their ambitious creativity that intoxicates us again and again, slowly moving the old, conventional Paris forward with their new ideas. Paris is wonderful for its 20 arrondissements, or districts, which lend the city its character. Life takes on a slightly different shade in each of them.

Paris is wonderful because it is chic. ( 44 )

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Paris is wonderful for the Place de la Concorde; for its fashion week, which four times a year whips up a frenzy of tightly tempered fashion shows, parties and glamour so vital to the city. Paris is wonderful because it is chic. Paris is wonderful because of all the bookshops. People from different walks of life come for inspiration. In the Ofr bookshop, with its specialised selection of books and the latest magazines on photography and fashion, the staff are well aware of this. Behind the bookshop is a gallery space, featuring exhibitions of currently working photographers and artists. An alternative to it is the legendary Le Comptoir des images; this is a bookshop stuffed to the ceiling with books for lovers and aficionados of photography, art and fashion. If you have been looking for a book that is sold out, they are bound to have a copy here. Paris is wonderful for the museums and galleries, which are often open all day until midnight. Like the Palais de Tokyo. This contemporary art centre, with its view of the Eiffel Tower, its restaurant and gallery bookshop, has everything. If you’re not in a hurry, just a few steps

away is the entrance to the Musée d’art moderne de la ville de Paris (Museum of Modern Art), from which a relentlessly long queue currently winds back. It is simultaneously exhibiting Basquiat and photos by Larry Clark, which are restricted to those over 18. And of course it is wonderful for the Seine, which divides Paris into left and right bank. Day after day and night after night it flows unheard, and through the City of Light it brings a source of tireless inspiration, something that has been here since the earliest times. Although the old Parisians separate it into left and right bank, it will remain forever one single and unique place. And of course as Humphrey Bogart would say, we’ll always have Paris!

Adria Airways leti na liniji Ljubljana–Pariz vsak dan. Adria Airways flies between Ljubljana and Paris every day.

Spas WITH a LONG HIsTOrY

Terme z dolgo zgodovino

erme Dobrna, Terme Laško, Rimske Toplice … To so kraji, ki jim je narava navrgla izjemnosti in jim tako omogočila, da jih

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je lahko zgodovina pobožala z bliščem. Resda jih je ta včasih

nič kaj rahločutno zavrgla, a vsakič ponovno dovolila, da so se obdale z mehkim razkošjem. In zdaj? So obledele od časa? Ne. Sled zgodovine je ostala, tradicija se nadaljuje. A hkrati so se nekdanja zdravilišča, zdajšnje terme, spremenili v kotičke, kjer je beseda 'razvajanje' našla svoje pravo mesto.

erme Dobrna, Terme Laško, Rimske toplice – these are all places that have been made exceptional by nature itself, so much so that their history is now nothing if not resplendent. In

truth, nothing in past times was discarded out of sensitivity, and history allowed them continuously to adorn themselves in gentle luxury. And now? Have they faded with time? No. The trace of history remains, the tradition continues. Yet at the same time what were once treatment centres, and are now thermal spas, have changed into choice locations where the term ‘spoiling’ really comes into its own.

Besedilo: Meta Krese

Fotografije: Branko Čeak

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{ Terme }

Rimske Toplice P

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 ,    ,   . P so bile tri. Skozi jutranjo svetlobo so se nežno zarisala visoka iglasta drevesa; počasi so zasijala v svoji veličastni podobi in nas zavarovala pred včasih tako nadležno otožnostjo (kot bi mogoče zapisal pesnik). Še več. Sekvoje so spomnile na čas, na leto 1840, ko so precej zanemarjene Toplice prišle v roke Tržačanoma Gustavu Uhlichu in njegovi ženi Amaliji. Usoda je z njima namenila zdravilišču srečo. To je bilo namreč obdobje, ko so se v zdraviliškem parku tik ob Zofijinem dvoru, ki sta ga zakonca zgradila leta 1856, razbohotila poleg sekvoj še druga eksotična in tudi bolj domača mogočna drevesa, kot so: tulipanovec, koloradska, kavkaška in španska jelka, črni in sivi oreh, rdeča bukev, tuja, tisa, ciprese, omorike. Nista se ustavila zgolj pri krotitvi narave. Zgradila sta kopalni bazen, postavila novo kopališko poslopje, katerega kabine so se postavljale z nič manj kot kararskim marmorjem, dodala vrsto razkošnih in asketskih poslopij, namenjenih zdravljenju gostov in seveda zabavi. Rimske Toplice so se razvile v zdravilišče, kjer se je zbirala aristokracija in meščanstvo, to je bil kraj, kjer so onemogli okrevali, zdolgočaseni so se razživeli, zabavljači pomirili ... Ulrichova in njuni nasledniki so za goste znali poskrbeti, ne da bi pri tem nepremišljeno zapravljali, nikoli pa niso pozabili na park. Park. Ta je imel vedno eminentno mesto pri lastnikih, načrtovanje ni bilo nikoli stihijsko. Gostje so se lahko oddaljili v zdraviliški gozd in se med visokimi drevesi predali neizmerni tihoti, tisti bolj družabni so se lahko smukali okrog ribnikov, polnih rdečih ribic, in prisluhnili zdraviliškemu orkestru. Nekdanji pašnik so spremenili v travno planjavo in jo poimenovali Gozdna trata. Obkrožili so jo z Viktorijino promenado in jo potegnili še daleč naprej v gozd. Med I. svetovno vojno so jo ruski ujetniki utrdili, zato jo danes poznamo kot Rusko stezo. Lesene ute ob

stezi so varovale goste pred dežnimi kapljami, no, najbrž so bile krasne skrivalnice za pogovore, mogoče celo za tajne zmenke, in seveda za počitek. Za nekoliko bolj zahtevne sprehajalce je bila pod Rusko stezo v gozdičku ob studencu tudi kavarnica. Urejene steze so peljale do razgledišč in urejenih počivališč nenavadnih imen, ki so gotovo imela nekoč nek smisel, a je utonil v pozabi. Belvedere, Dežnik Amalijin grič, Grillparzer, Miza v gozdu, Olgin sedež, Slamnata strešica, Šarlotino razgledišče, Velika lipa ... V senci visokih dreves so uredili teniško igrišče, tako da zavzetim igralcem niti največja sončna pripeka ni prišla do živega. Čudovite lončnice, ki so v toplih dneh krasile okolico zdraviliških stavb, so prezimovale v cvetličnjaku. Glashaus so ga imenovali. Se lahko čudimo torej, če so bili med uglednimi gosti angleška princesa in pruska prestolonaslednica Viktorija, Napoleonova sestra Caroline Bonaparte – princesa Murat, avstrijski književnik Franz Grillparzer, srbski književnik Vuk Karadžić in celo cesar Ferdinand ter nadvojvoda Janez. Pravijo, ampak o tem ne govorijo nobeni pisni dokumenti, da naj bi zdravilišče obiskala tudi avstrijski prestolonaslednik Franc Jožef in njegova soproga, princesa Sisi. Rimske terme so dožive zelo hude čase, ampak so jih tudi preživele. Spomladi bodo popolnoma prenovljene spet pričakale goste, željne wellnessa, savn, bazenov in vsega drugega ugodja, ki ga je v termah v izobilju.

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{ Spas }

Rimske Toplice

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   I    . I    three sequoias. The huge conifers gently sketched out their shapes in the morning light; they gradually started to radiate their magnificence, protecting us from an occasional intrusive melancholy (as a poet might muse). But there’s more. They brought to mind the time back in 1840 when the seriously neglected spa came into the possession of the Trieste natives Gustav Ulrich and his wife Amalija. Through them, fate smiled on the spa. Indeed this was a time when the health resort park, right next to the Zofija Manor built by the couple in 1856, acquired alongside the sequoias a profusion of other exotic and also more familiar yet magnificent trees, such as a tulip tree, Colorado, Caucasian and Spanish spruces, black and white walnuts, copper beech, yew, cypresses and Serbian spruce. They did not stop at just taming nature. They constructed a bathing pool, erected a new bathhouse, whose cabins boasted no less than Carrara marble, and they added a series of both luxurious and ascetic buildings intended for treating guests and of course for entertainment. Rimske Toplice evolved into a health resort where the aristocracy and bourgeoisie gathered, and this was a place where the infirm recuperated, those suffering ennui got their spark back, and party animals chilled out. The Ulrichs and their successors were adept at caring for their guests without incurring any heedless waste, but they never neglected the park. The park. The park always held a pre-eminent place for the owners, and planning was never thoughtless. Guests could withdraw to the health resort’s woods and among the tall trees they could surrender to the boundless quiet, while the more sociable could hang around by the ponds full of red fish and listen to the health resort orchestra. The former pasture was changed into a grassy open area and called the Woodland Lawn. It was encircled by a Victorian promenade stretching deep into the forest. During the First World War, Russian prisoners reinforced it, so now it is known as the Russian Path. The wooden huts alongside the path protected guests from the rain, and then again, they were no doubt excellent hiding spots for talks, perhaps even for secret assignations, and of course for repose. For the rather more demanding walkers, down from the Russian path in a little wood by a stream there was a coffee shop. The arranged paths led to viewing points and arranged rest areas with unusual names, which no doubt once made some sense that has now fallen into oblivion: Belvedere, Amalija’s

Hill, Umbrella, Grillparzer, Table in the Forest, Olga’s Seat, Thatched Roof, Charlotte’s Viewing Point, Great Linden and more. A tennis court was arranged in the shadow of the tall trees, so earnest players would not be impaired by even the most scorching rays of sunlight. The gorgeous pot plants that adorned the surroundings of the resort buildings on warm days overwintered in a conservatory. This was called the Glashaus. It should come as no surprise, then, that the distinguished guests included the English princess and Prussian crown princess Victoria, Napoleon’s sister Caroline Bonaparte – Princess Murat – the Austrian writer Franz Grillparzer, the Serbian literary figure Vuk Karadžić and even the Emperor Ferdinand and Archduke Johann. It is said – although no written document bears witness to it – that the spa was also visited by the Austrian Crown Prince Franz Joseph and his spouse, Princess Sisi. Rimske Toplice also endured some very hard times, but it survived them. In the spring, fully renovated it will once again welcome guests seeking the wellness centre, saunas, pools and all the other amenities that abound at the spa.

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{ Terme }

Thermana Laško »L

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  ,   ,« pripoveduje o zdravilišču gospod Jože Majcen, vestni zapisovalec njihove zgodovine. Ne razumem. A še preden se utegnem spraševati po smislu stavka, že dobim prijazno razlago. »Zaradi konkurence drugih toplic v tedanji Avstro-Ogrski so bili prisiljeni ves čas investirati, potem pa jim je v nekem trenutku zmanjkalo. Bili so preveč zadolženi in so morali zdravilišče prodati.« Tako poznajo laške terme čase, ko so se lahko gostje spuščali po Savinji s čolniči, jedli s srebrnim, nekateri celo s pozlačenim priborom, otroci so jahali ponije po parku, skratka uživali so v razkošju, za katerega so bili premožneži prepričani, da jim pripada. Ampak poglejmo, kako se je vse skupaj začelo. V drobni, a zelo posebni knjigi, ki jo je takrat še Zdravilišče Laško izdalo ob 145. obletnici (leta 1999), je urednik Jure Krašovec izpostavil zapis iz leta 1852, ki govori o pravicah in dolžnostih inženirja Leopolda Rödla, prvega lastnika zemljišča, kjer so vrelci. Takole gre: Razen kupnine v znesku 600 goldinarjev konvencijskega denarja priznava Leopold Rödel zase in za vse svoje pravne naslednike vsem družinskim članom in lastnikom trške zemlje, vsem članom skupnosti magistrata Laško, vsakokratnim duhovnikom in v Laškem stanujočim državnim uradnikom pravico kopanja v novozgrajenem kopališču, proti plačilu za vse večne čase določene in nepovišljive takse 6 krajcarjev konvencijskega denarja, in sicer brez perila od 1. 10. do 30. 4. v času od 1. 5. do 30. 9. pa le za ½ ceneje, kot znaša taksa za ostale kopališke goste. Bolni občinski reveži pa imajo pravico do brezplačnega kopanja v najbolj preprosti kopeli na osnovi vsakokratnega nakazila občinskega predstojnika. Njegovi načrti so bili za kanec preveliki. Odprl je kopališki bazen, največji zaprti bazen v celotni štajerski deželi, zgradil gospodarsko poslopje, utrdil bregove Savinje, zasadil drevesa in cvetje in – propadel. Prvi na lestvici obubožanih lastnikov.

Lastniki kopališča Kaiser Franz Josephs-Bad, kot ga je inženir Rödel svečano imenoval, pa so se menjali kot po tekočem traku. Iz leta v leto se je bolj lesketalo v razkošju, lastniki pa so bolj ali manj vsi dočakali enak konec: finančni polom. Ko ga je v osemdesetih letih 19. stoletja vzel v svoje roke Dunajčan Teodor Gunkel, je imelo zdravilišče že 86 sob. V parku je uredil ribnik, v katerem so plavali labodi, gosi in race. Imeli so večstezno kegljišče, igrišče za tenis, prostor za kriket. Dresirani psi so s cirkuškimi točkami zabavali goste. To je bilo obdobje, ko so gostje jedli s pozlačenim priborom, počivali na usnjenih ležalnikih, zastirali okna s težkimi brokatnimi zavesami … Zdraviliško pivo, ki so ga varili v laški pivovarni, je veljalo za najboljše v tedanji Avstriji. A ponovila se je stara zgodba. Čeprav ni manjkalo gostov – terme so slovele daleč naokoli –, je pretirana razsipnost pripeljala do gospodarskega poloma lastnika. A ne do propada zdravilišča. Turobna obdobja je zdravilišče vedno preživelo. Znameniti zdravniki so počasi uveljavili njegovo zdravstveno rehabilitacijsko usmeritev, hotelska ponudba je temu zvesto sledila. Do danes. Težko bi bilo drugače že samo zaradi tega, kar nam omogoča termalna voda: plavanje, podvodna masaža, vodna rekreacija ali pa prepuščanje toplim sončnim žarkom na terasi zunanjega bazena so nepozabni trenutki sproščenosti.

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{ Spas }

Thermana Laško

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   ,     blossomed,” says Jože Majcen, faithful chronicler of the spa’s history. I don’t understand. But before I get around to asking what sense this sentence makes, I get a nice explanation. “Owing to the competition with other spas in the then Austria-Hungary, they were forced to keep investing, but then at one point they ran out of funds. They were too heavily in debt and had to sell the health resort.” So it was that the Laško spa experienced times when guests could boat down the River Savinja, eat with silver and sometimes gold cutlery, and children rode ponies around the park; in short they enjoyed luxuries that the affluent believed were their right. Let’s take a look at how it all started. In a tiny but very special book that the then Zdravilišče Laško published on its 145th anniversary (in 1999), the editor Jure Krašovec highlights a record from 1852, which speaks of the rights and duties of engineer Leopold Rödel, the first owner of the land where the springs are located. It reads thus: In addition to the purchase fee amounting to 600 goldinars in Convention money, Leopold Rödel grants to himself and all his legal successors, all family members and owners of market town land, all members of the community of Laško town hall, each and any priest and state official resident in Laško the right to bathe in the newly built baths, against the payment set for all time and without increase of 6 krajcars of Convention money, without underlinens, from 1 October to 30 April, and in the period from 1 May to 30 September at half the price only of the fee for other bath guests. Infirm paupers of the municipality, however, shall have the right to bathe for free in the simplest bath pursuant to referral each time from the municipal chief. His plans were just a little grandiose. He opened a bathing pool, the biggest closed pool in the entire province of Štajerska, built a commercial building, fortified the banks of the Savinja, planted trees and flowers and was then ruined. The first on the list of pauperised owners. The owners of the Kaiser Franz Josephs-Bad, as Rödel ceremoniously named his baths, changed as if on a conveyor belt. Each year the baths acquired more glittering luxury, but the owners were more or less all destined for the same fate: financial ruin. When Teodor Gunkel of Vienna acquired the spa in the 1880s, it offered a full 86 rooms. In the park he arranged a pond, complete with

swans, geese and ducks. There was a multi-lane bowling centre, a tennis court and cricket pitch. Specially trained dogs entertained guests with circus routines. This was a time when guests ate with gold-plated tableware, rested on leather chaises longues, and drew heavily brocaded curtains across their windows. The spa beer, brewed in the Laško brewery, was deemed to be the best in Austria. But history repeated itself. Although there was no lack of guests, with the spa being famed far and wide, the excessively lavish approach led to the owner’s financial ruin. But not to the ruin of the spa. It always survived the periods of gloom. Famous physicians gradually gave credence to its therapeutic and rehabilitation dimensions, and the catering and accommodation faithfully followed suit. To the present day. It would be hard to imagine it otherwise, if only because of what the thermal water offers: swimming, underwater massage, water recreation or surrendering to the warm rays of sunshine on the terrace of the outdoor pool; these are all unforgettable moments of relaxation.

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{ Terme }

Terme Dobrna D ( 56 )

     ,     ,  v zdraviliškem parku je bilo še vedno slišati živahne glasove. Težko se je bilo upreti njihovi prijetni melodiji. Pohiteli smo jim naproti ... Balinišče, se razveselimo. Igralci se ne zmenijo za nas, zato pa nas toliko bolj zanima, kako lahko delujejo kot uigrano moštvo, za katerim so leta skupnih vadb. »V našem parku balinajo in igrajo tenis gostje in domačini, med tednom se na igrišču sredi parka zabavajo otroci naših obiskovalcev in iz krajevnega vrtca, med vikendi se ob živi glasbi v Vinski kleti in kavarni hotela Vita skupaj zavrtijo tuji in domači gostje, ob sobotah se poročajo,« nam razloži Teja Grum, naša odkrivalka preteklosti in sedanjosti termalnega zdravilišča. »Z zdraviliščem je od vsega začetka živela cela Dobrna. To ni bil le kraj, kjer so domačini našli delo. Po parku so se sprehajali, v takratni letni kavarni plesali, v kopališkem bazenu so se namakali,« doda Helena Župnek, »in še vedno je tako.« Čeprav je igra napeta in nas je približevanje krogel balincu že popolnoma pritegnilo, nadaljujemo z ogledom. V dobrih (ali več kot) šeststo letih, toliko je pač minilo od takrat, ko je bil dobrnski termalni vrelec prvič pisno omenjen, se je nabralo neskončno veliko stvari, ki kličejo po naši pozornosti. Glede na to, da so po domnevah zgodovinarjev vodo iz vrelca uporabljali že Rimljani, da se je v 13. stoletju skoraj gotovo tu že namakala staro in jaro plemstvo, da so si konec srednjega veka v vrelcu izborili mesto tudi duhovna gospoda in bogati meščani, so naša pričakovanja velika. In tudi potešena. Nad starim kopališkim bazenom, ki so mu obljubljeni boljši časi in se letos ponovno odpira, je še vedno marmornata plošča, ki jo je vzidal Matija Gačnik, ko je leta 1624 postavil prvo zdraviliško zgradbo. Ivan Matija Gačnik s kasnejšim plemiškem pridevkom »von und zu Schlan-

genburg« (1666. leta) pri urejevanju ni skoparil z denarjem; pomagali so mu tudi deželni stanovi, saj je bil njegov cilj pridobiti veljavo in sloves. Dokumenti namigujejo, da je bazen z leseno pregrado razdelil na moški in ženski oddelek, verjetno pa je že zgradil tudi bazen za ubožnejše goste, ki se je polnil z vodo iz gosposkega kopališča. Kasneje so ga imenovali kmečko kopališče, kamor so domačini, vsaj tako vedo še danes povedati, redno zavili ob nedeljah po maši. V 19. stoletju so različni lastniki obnavljali, podirali, na novo postavljali poslopja, urejevali park in kopališča. Celo Napoleonov brat Ludvik Bonaparte je iz hvaležnosti, ker mu je tako godilo zdraviliško okrevanje, dal za gospodo izravnati skalnata tla v bazenu. Če je bilo leta 1820, ko so začeli z urejevanjem parka, to še stihijsko in so zasajali drevesa in grmovnice največkrat le okrog vedno novih in novih zdraviliških poslopij, pa je pristop spremenil novi lastnik grof Hoyos. Pod njegovim nadzorstvom se je preobrazil v pravi botanični vrt, za katerega danes redno skrbijo trije vrtnarji. Pravzaprav je bil prav grof Hoyos – v svojih zamislih sicer za kanček preveč velikopotezen in je zabredel v dolgove – ustvarjalec sedanjih Term Dobrna. Konec tridesetih let so v Slovencu zapisali: »Hrupnih zabav nimamo v Dobrni, pač pa se prirejajo prijateljski sestanki v lepih lokalih zdraviliškega doma. Vojaška godba igra dvakrat na dan, v veliki dvorani pa se vrše igre in koncerti. Krasna igrišča in športni prostori nudijo priložnost za vsakovrsten šport.« Vojaške godbe res ni več, pridih mondenosti se je obdržal. Vrelec zdravilne termalne vode pa prav tako ne kaže, da bi kdaj usahnil.

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{ Spas }

Terme Dobrna

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       ,    engulfed the bare treetops, but in the health resort park you could still hear animated voices. It was hard to resist their pleasant melody. We hurried off towards them. The boules court, we were delighted to discover. The players took no notice of us, so it was all the more interesting for us to see them function as a well-drilled team with years of practice behind them. “In our park both guests and local people play boules and tennis. During the week the playground in the middle of the park is full of children, both those of our visitors and from the local kindergarten; on the weekends foreign and local guests dance together to live music in the Wine Cellar and café of the Hotel Vita, and on Saturdays they get married,” explains Teja Grum, our guide to the past and present of the health resort and spa. “All of Dobrna has lived with the health resort since the very beginning. This was not just a place where the locals found work. They walked in the park, danced in the then summer café, and soaked in the bathing pool,” adds Helena Župnek. “And it’s still like that.” Although the game is tense and the balls inching their way closer to the target ball have us transfixed, we continue our tour. In just over six hundred years – that is, since the Dobrna thermal spring was first mentioned in written sources – an infinite number of things have accumulated that cry out for our attention. Given that historians believe the water from the spring was used by the Romans, that in the 13th century both the old and new nobility almost certainly enjoyed a soak here,

and that at the end of the Middle Ages the ecclesiastical elite and rich burghers also fought for elbow room in the spring, our expectations are high. And satisfied. Above the old bath, which is promised better times and which this year is reopening, there is still a marble slab installed by Matija Gačnik, when the first spa building was erected in 1624. In arranging the site, Ivan Matija Gačnik, who from 1666 bore the noble title von und zu Schlangenburg, spared no expense, and in this enterprise he was aided by the provincial estates, since his aim was to acquire wealth and renown. Documents hint that the bathing pool was divided by a wooden fence into male and female sections, although the more likely story is that Matija Gačnik built a pool for poor guests, and this was filled with water from the aristocratic bath. Later it was called the peasant bath, and the locals would frequent it after Sunday mass, or so at least goes the local story still told today. In the 19th century various owners renovated, pulled down and rebuilt the buildings, and arranged the park and baths. Even Napoleon’s brother Louis Bonaparte, in gratitude for experiencing such a favourable recuperation here, had the rocky bottom of the pool levelled for the genteel guests. The year 1820 marks the beginning of the park being arranged, albeit without planning, with the planting of trees and bushes for the most part just around the growing number of new health resort buildings, but the new owner Count Hoyos changed this approach. Under his supervision, it was transformed into a veritable botanical garden, which is now in the full-time care of three gardeners. In fact it was Count Hoyos, who was actually a touch over the top in his conceptualisation, and fell into debt, who was the creator of the modern-day Dobrna spa. At the end of the 30s the newspaper Slovenec carried the following report: “We have no loud parties at Dobrna, and rather there are friendly meetings arranged in the fine establishments of the health centre. Military band music is played twice a day, and plays and concerts are performed in the large hall. The outstanding courts and sports areas offer the scope for all manner of sports.” There are in truth no more military bands, but the fashionable air has been retained. Equally, the spring of healing thermal water shows no sign of drying up.

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Zgodba o

macesnu M

acesen je nenavadno drevo. Običajno raste daleč od naših oči. Povzpeti se moramo visoko v gore, in to še ob pravem času, da ga doživimo, ko se odene v ognjemet barv.

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Besedilo in fotografije: Janez Mihovec

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{ Macesen }

ravzaprav je macesen drevo dveh podob. Po eni strani prenese zahtevne podnebne razmere, po drugi pa zahteva posebne pogoje za svojo rast, in šele ko so izpolnjeni, zažari v svojem sijaju. Tako mu ni všeč preveč padavin, čeprav ima rad vlažno in hladno podnebje tam, kjer ima kamnito podlago. V Zgornjem Posočju, kjer se vlažne gmote ujamejo na gorskih pregradah Zahodnih Julijcev in kjer pade tudi do 5000 mm padavin letno, bomo macesen zaman iskali. Drugi iglavci so mu hud konkurent. Tam, kjer rasteta smreka in jelka, zanj ni prostora. Ko pa se dvignemo nad 1700 metrov višine, pa tudi še krepko čez dva tisoč, je nesporen vladar. Mogoče je za koga macesen pretežen del leta nezanimivo drevo. Spomladi in poleti je to nežno zelen iglavec, pozimi pa iglice odpadejo in drevo je videti zelo oskubljeno. Vendar pa obstajajo trije tedni v letu, ko macesen s svojo lepoto gotovo presune večino planincev. V začetku oktobra (pa tudi kasneje, odvisno od lege rasti) iglice macesnov postanejo zlato rumene barve in tako ustvarijo neverjetne prizore.

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stezica. Sledimo ji in na drugi strani smo naenkrat ujeti med severnim ostenjem Mojstrovke in globoko dolino Male Pišnice ter grebenom Kumlehove glave. Zagledamo nenavadno goro Sleme, visoko 1911 metrov. Kot nekakšen steber se dviga nekoliko po svoje iz drugih ostenij. Tu pa je najvišje ležeči macesnov gozd v Sloveniji. Medtem ko drugod rastejo drevesa posamič in precej narazen, tukaj tvorijo pravcat gozdni sestoj. In tu presenečenj še ni konec. Nekoliko nižje na pobočju Male Pišnice raste še najdebelejše macesnovo drevo v Sloveniji. Njegov obseg je skoraj 5 metrov. Slemenova špica je znana še po gorskih jezercih in po božanskem razgledu na morda najlepšo slovensko goro, Jalovec.

Pokljuške planine Po celotni planoti Pokljuka si od zahoda proti vzhodu slede planine: Planina Ovčarija, Dedno polje, Viševnik, Planina pri jezeru, Blato, V Lazu, Vodični vrh, Hebed, Vogar, Uskovnica, Zajamniki in še vrsta drugih. Vse so obdane z mogočnimi gozdovi, nad katerimi se dvigajo bele gore. Povzpnemo se torej na eno izmed njih iz doline Voje in iz Rudne doline. Od tu vidimo, da so si planine precej podobne. Osnovna zgradba na planini je sirarna, okoli nje pa so raztreseni posamični pastirski stanovi. Del zgradbe je namenjen prebivanju pastirjev, del pa nudi zasilno zavetje drobnici. Planine so obdane z macesnovimi gozdovi in material za gradnjo stanov se tako ponuja sam od sebe.

Gola glava Še vedno na slovenskem naselitvenem ozemlju, pa vendarle že v Italiji v Zahodnih Julijskih Alpah so mogoče ene izmed najlepših gora, kar jih svet pozna: Montaž, Viš, Nabojs in še kakšna bi se našla. Iz Rateč zavijemo v Kanalsko dolino, od tu v Jezersko dolino in že smo tam. Ker so gore divje, najdemo le tu in tam kakšno planino. Zato pa toliko več macesnovih gozdov, ki se dvigajo nad jezeri, kot sta Rabeljsko in Mangartsko jezero. Najlepši razgled je najbrž na vrhu Gole glave nad dolino Belega potoka. Kot mogočni stolpi se dvigajo gore nad macesnovimi gozdovi v okolici.

Izgubljeni svet Kočen in Kotov Poglejmo nekaj krajev, kjer nam pogled na macesen polepša dan.

Planina Korošica v Karavankah Na poti do prelaza Ljubelj zavijemo tik pod nekdanjim koncentracijskim taboriščem ob prvi serpentini ostro na desno. Makadamska cesta se konča že po nekaj deset metrih med zadnjim pobočjem grebena Košute, Zajmenovimi pečmi in pobočji pod Košutico. Dve uri se vzpenjamo po kolovozu, nato pa se nenadoma pred nami odpre pogled na planino Korošica, obdano z macesnovimi gozdovi in divjimi stenami bližnjih gora.

Slemenova špica nad Vršičem O Slemenovi špici lahko govorimo le v presežnikih. Po stari vojaški cesti, ki so jo zgradili ruski vojaški ujetniki že davnega leta 1916, se povzpnemo na Vršič. Na samem sedlu se na desno proti prelazu Vratica vije drobna

Na severnih obronkih Kamniških in Savinjskih Alp štrlijo vrhovi dobesedno v nebo, strmine pa se spuščajo do ozkih ledeniških kotlin. Zgornje, polkrožno zaključene dele teh dolin imenujejo na Gorenjskem in Koroškem kočne, na Štajerskem pa koti. Oglejmo si torej Belsko, Ravensko in Makekovo Kočno na Gorenjskem in Koroškem ter Matkov in Robanov kot ter Logarsko dolino v Zgornji Savinjski dolini. Povzpnemo se do planinskih koč, kot so Ledine, Češka koča, Kamniška in Frischaufova koča, in res imamo kaj videti. Ravnega sveta ni niti toliko, da bi nanj položili razprto dlan. Vsepovsod same strmine in grozljivi prepadi. Vendar pa to macesnu ne predstavlja ovir. Če le seme najde pot do razpoke v skalah, že zraste drevo. Pogled na drevo tik nad prepadom je presunljiv: govori nam o bitju, ki kljubuje vremenu in času.

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{ The Larch }

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The Story of the Larch Text & Photography: Janez Mihovec

he larch is an unusual tree. It usually grows far from our eyes. You have to climb high up into the mountains – and then at the right time – to experience how it adorns itself in a riot of colour. The larch is in fact a tree of two appearances. On the one hand it can withstand challenging climate conditions, while on the other hand it requires special conditions for growth, and only when these are fulfilled does it glow in all its brilliance. It does not like too much precipitation, although it does like a damp and cool climate where there is a rocky base. In the Upper Soča river basin, damp air masses meet on the mountain slopes of the Western Julian Alps, and where up to 5,000 mm of precipitation falls each year, you would search for larches in vain.

Other conifers offer stiff competition to the larch. Wherever spruce and fir grow, there is no room for it. But when you climb above 1,700 metres, and even way above 2,000 metres, it is the undisputed ruler. For some, perhaps, the larch is an uninteresting tree for most of the year. In spring and summer it is a gently green conifer, but in winter it sheds its needles and the tree looks stripped bare. Yet there are three weeks in the year when the larch undoubtedly stuns most mountain hikers with its beauty. At the beginning of October (and later, too, depending on its position) the larch needles turn golden yellow, thereby creating incredible sights.

Let’s take a look at some of the areas where a view of the larches will brighten your day.

Planina Korošica in the Karavanke range Along the road to the Ljubelj pass, you turn off sharply to the right just below the former concentration camp at the first hairpin bend. The unpaved road ends after just a few dozen metres between the rear slopes of the Košuta ridge, Zajmenove peči and the slopes below Košutica. You ascend for two hours on a cart track, then suddenly a view opens up of the Planina Korošica Alpine pasture, surrounded by larch forests and the savage rock faces of the nearby mountains.

Macesen

(Larix decidua) je mogočno drevo. Zraste do 40 metrov visoko, deblo ima lahko tudi do meter in pol premera. Poleg tise je edino slovensko drevo, ki na jesen odvrže iglice, in to mu da prav poseben čar. Deblo je pri mladem drevesu gladko, ko pa zraste, lubje razpoka in deblo postane razbrazdano. Običajno ga porastejo lišaji, ki dajo drevesu značilen, nekoliko starikav videz. Veje iz debla rastejo vodoravno, ponavadi po več skupaj; iz teh vej se odcepijo stranski viseči poganjki. Iglice zrastejo v šopkih, med njimi se razvijejo majhni storžki, ki na zimo odpadejo. Ponavadi ne raste v strnjenih sestojih, temveč ga le tu in tam najdemo v manjših skupinah. Macesnov les je najboljše kvalitete. Ima izrazit smolnat vonj in rumenkasto barvo. Zaradi sestava je neverjetno odporen na vlago. Zato ga uporabljajo za gradnjo ladij in najboljšega pohištva. Vendar pa je težava vedno v majhnih stvareh. Za razliko od drugih iglavcev ne raste v nižini. Prav nasprotno. Najdemo ga na nedostopnih krajih visoko v gorah, kjer je le težko dosegljiv.

The Larch

(Larix decidua) is a mighty tree. It grows up to 40 metres high, with a trunk diameter of up to a metre and a half. Apart from the yew, it is the only Slovenian tree to drop its needles in autumn, and this lends it a special charm. The trunk is smooth on the young tree, but when it grows, the bark develops fissures and the trunk becomes furrowed. Usually it becomes overgrown with lichens, which lend the tree its characteristic, slightly ancient appearance. The branches grow horizontally from the trunk, usually several together; the hanging side shoots sprout from these branches. The needles grow in bunches, and in amongst them develop little cones that fall off in winter. It does not usually grow in dense stands, more often being found just here and there in small groups. Larch wood has the finest quality. It has a distinctly resinous aroma and yellowish colour. Its composition makes it incredibly moisture-resistant. For this reason it is used to construct boats and the finest furniture. But the devil is always in the detail. In contrast to other conifers, it does not grow in the lowlands. Quite the opposite. It is found at remote locations high in the mountains, where it is hard to reach.

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{ The Larch } Slemenova špica above Vršič You can only talk about Slemenova špica in superlatives. You take the old military road, which was built by Russian prisoners of war way back in 1916, up to the Vršič pass. On the actual saddle, a tiny trail leads off to the right towards the Vratica pass. Follow this trail, and on the other side you are suddenly between the north face of Mojstrovka and the deep valley of Mala Pišnica and the Kumlehova glava ridge. Then you can see the unusual mountain of Sleme, standing 1,911 metres high. It rises up from the other rock walls as a rather singular pillar. And here stands the highest-lying larch forest in Slovenia. While elsewhere the trees grow individually and quite far apart, here they form a veritable forest stand. But that’s not the only surprise. A little lower, on the slopes of Mala Pišnica, grows the thickest larch tree in Slovenia. It is almost 5 metres around. Slemenova špica is also famous for its little mountain lakes and for its divine view of perhaps the most beautiful of Slovenia’s mountains, Jalovec.

Pokljuka pastures

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Looking east across the entire Pokljuka plateau, there is a series of Alpine pasture lands, or planine: Planina Ovčarija, Dedno polje, Viševnik, Planina pri jezeru, Blato, V Lazu, Vodični vrh, Hebed, Vogar, Uskovnica, Zajamniki and a number of others. They are all surrounded by magnificent forests, from which rise the white mountains. So you ascend one of them from the Voje valley and from Rudna dolina.

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From there you can see that the pastures are quite similar. The principal type of building on the pasture is the cheese-making hut, and around it are scattered individual herder huts. Part of the building is intended as herder lodging, and part offers temporary refuge for sheep and goats. The pastures are surrounded by larch forests and this means, naturally, a plentiful supply of building material for the huts.

Gola glava Still in land inhabited by Slovenians, but actually in Italian territory, over in the Western Julian Alps, are perhaps some of the magnificent mountains in the world: Montaž (Jof di Montasio), Viš (Vis), Nabojs (Nabois)

and several more. From Rateče you turn into the valley of Kanalska dolina (Val Canale), from there into Jezerska dolina (Val Rio del Lago) and you have arrived. Since these mountains are quite wild, mountain pastures are few and far between. For this reason there are all the more larch forests rising above the lakes such as the Rabeljsko jezero and Mangartsko jezero. The finest view is probably from the top of Gola glava above the valley of the Beli potok stream. The mountains rise above the area’s larch forests like mighty towers.

The lost world of Kočne and Koti On the northern slopes of the Kamnik and Savinja Alps, the peaks jut quite literally into the sky, and the steep inclines slide down to narrow glacial basins. In the regions of Gorenjska and Koroška the upper, semicircular closed part of such a valley, akin to a cirque, is called kočna, and in Štajerska, it is known as kot. So our tour will take you to Belska, Ravenska and Makekova Kočna in Gorenjska and Koroška, and to Matkov and Robanov kot, as well as the valley of Logarska dolina in the Upper Savinja Valley. You can hike up to the mountain lodges such as Ledine, Češka koča, Kamniška and Frischaufova koča, and then you will truly have something to look at. There is not enough flat terrain even to put the palm of your hand down. Everywhere there are just steep slopes and scary precipices. But this is no obstacle to the larch. If the seed can just find its way into a fissure in the rock, the tree will grow. Seeing a tree right on the edge of a precipice is quite stunning: it speaks to us of a life-form that defies weather and time.

V deželi stoterih jezer

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Od burje obrušeni kristali P

ravijo, da je to dežela Martina Krpana, ljudskega junaka, ki je rešil Dunaj pred Brdavsovim, če že ne pred turškim

opustošenjem, v glavnem pa je tihotapil sol. Pravijo ji tudi dežela stoterih jezer, saj bi bila asociacija na ime dežele tisočerih jezer tam nekje na skrajnem severu Evrope preveč klišejska. Pa še lepša in skrivnostnejša je tale naša dežela stoterih jezer.

Besedilo in fotografije: Jože Balas

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{ V deželi stoterih jezer }

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ravijo ji tudi Pivka. In tako ima Pivka v teh krajih kar trojni pomen: označuje pokrajino, ki ji nekateri radi rečejo tudi Pivška kotlina ali Pivško, hkrati pa to ime nosita tudi reka Pivka in mesto Pivka. Z vrha Trojice, Milanje ali katerega koli drugega razglednega hriba se odpre pogled na nekakšen blag gričevnat svet s pridihom Sredozemlja, poln kotanj in vrtač, takih velikih in prostranih, da jih lahko pomerimo le od daleč na oko, do takih majhnih, velikih za širok objem. Pravijo, da včasih ob ugodnih vetrovih, ki potegnejo z reškega ali koprskega konca, celo zadiši po morju. Spet drugič, in to celo bolj pogosto in v nasprotni smeri, pa potegne burja, tista prava, tako močna in negostoljubna, da pokrajina v trenutku obnemi, postane opustela in prazna. Največ vode se v reko Pivko steka z Javornikov, pa še to le takrat, ko so vsi podzemni vodni toki in poti zalite. In ko je zalito skrivnostno kraško podzemlje, potem ob obilnem deževju Pivka kaj hitro prestopi svoje nizke bregove. Razlije se po dolini in poplavlja polja, številne kraške vrtače in globeli pa se spremenijo v jezera. In eno izmed teh stoterih jezer, po katerih je dežela tudi dobila ime, je potrebno še posebej omeniti. Severno od vasi Palčje, kjer se na trgu pred cerkvijo sv. Nikolaja stekajo poti iz vseh okoliških vasi – Parij, Trnja, Klenika, Pivke in Jurišča –, leži ogromna, kilometer in pol dolga in pol kilometra široka kotanja z ravnim dnom. Napolni se le ob dolgotrajnih padavinah in takrat nastane Palško jezero, največje jezero Zgornje Pivke. Voda prite-

In takrat, ko se spremeni svet in se jezero napolni, se začnejo okrog njega zbirati radovedneži.

če iz kraških izvirov, največji in najbolj znan pa je tisti v Matijevi jami, tipični kraški estaveli. Ko pa se deževje umiri in nastopi suša, ta jama jezersko vodo tudi požira in tedaj jezero presahne. Jezero nas največkrat preseneti z vso svojo modrino od novembra do aprila, vendar to ni pravilo. Kadar se utrga nebo, se lahko jezero napolni v nekaj dneh. In prav tako lahko v nekaj dneh tudi izgine. Od vseh jezer se voda v Palškem jezeru zadržuje najmanj časa, vsega skupaj največ do 3 mesece v celem letu, kratkotrajnejši sta menda le najvišje ležeči jezeri zgoraj pri Šembijah. In takrat, ko se spremeni svet in se jezero napolni, se začnejo okrog njega zbirati radovedneži. Pokrajina, prej na videz pusta in mrtva, postane nekakšen trg, svojevrsten korzo. Zbirališče ni več v mestu, na tržnici, temveč tu na obali, ob robu jezera, kjer se veselo pogovarjajo, izmenjujejo informacije in ’trače’, se smejijo, pripovedujejo zgodbe in morda celo trgujejo. Res, da danes ne več z voli, lesom ali ledom, tega so vozili celo v Trst in na Reko, temveč bolj za šalo kot zares. Nekateri pa se raje umaknejo, na drugi breg, po drugih poteh, v samoto in mir. Kot da iščejo nekaj čarobnega, kot da čakajo, da se bo temu čudežu narave zgodil nov, še bolj neverjeten svet. Kot da se še ni zgodilo dovolj čudežev. In najbolj vztrajnim se tudi zgodijo. Taki, čisto naravni in preprosti, a v svoji biti enkratni in neponovljivi. Na primer takrat, ko se obilne jesenske padavine zavlečejo v zgodnjo, a mrzlo zimo, potem pa ... Potem pa z Javornikov potegne burja, tista taprava, ledena burja! Burja, ki riše poteze na obrazih Notranjcev, brusi pa tudi v led okovana kristalna očesa porečja Pivke, upogiba borovce in preganja drobnico v tople staje in varna zavetja. In v zimskih dneh ni žive duše, ki bi se potikala tod okrog. Ne človeka in ne ptic, ne zveri. In tako se včasih zgodi, da se sredi zimske prostranosti, okovane v led, znajdeš čisto sam. Skrivnostna jezerska pokrajina se pravljično spreminja iz meseca v mesec, iz tedna v teden, iz ure v uro. Enkrat pripeka sonce, spet drugič dežuje, pa sneži in piha burja, ki te obrije do kosti. Tudi zato je ta pokrajina lepša kot dežela tisočerih jezer. Zato se obiskovalci na obalo jezera nenehno vračajo. Tako kot se vrača jezero. Včasih za kakšen teden ali dva, včasih za več mesecev. In kakor pride, tako tudi gre, skoraj neopazno, tiho. In ko odide spomladi, se za njim dvigne preproga travniškega cvetja, še pred začetkom vročega in suhega poletja pa so kotanje že polne suhega sena in kopic. Potem pa spet prideta jesen in zima, Pivka pa zopet prestopi svoje bregove in zapolni številne vrtače in globeli. In dežela, ki ji pravijo tudi »dežela stoterih jezer«, se zopet lesketa v kristalnem odsevu. No, pravzaprav ji tako pravim le jaz.

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{ V de탑eli stoterih jezer }

{ In the land of a hundred lakes }

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Crystals Polished by the North Wind Text and photography: Jože Balas

hey say that this is the land of Martin Krpan, the folk hero who saved Vienna from devastation at the hands of Brdaus, and no doubt from the Turks too, although most of his time was spent smuggling salt. This is also called the land of a hundred lakes, since any association with the name ‘land of a thousand lakes’, up there somewhere in the far north of Europe, would be too much of a cliché. And our land of a hundred lakes here is even more beautiful and mysterious. It is also known as Pivka. In these parts, Pivka has three meanings: it denotes the land that some like to call Pivška kotlina (the Pivka Basin) or Pivško, while both the river and local town also bear the name Pivka. From the top of Trojica, Milanja or from any other panoramic hilltop, a view unfolds of a kind of gentle, hilly terrain with a hint of

the Mediterranean, full of hollows and sinkholes, the kind that are so large and expansive that you can only size them up from afar, as well as those that are small enough to fit into a human hug. They say that sometimes, when the winds are blowing favourably from Rijeka or Koper, it even smells of the sea. On the other hand, the wind that blows more frequently, and in the opposite direction, is the notorious burja north wind, a wind so strong and inclement that the landscape can be momentarily struck dumb and left ravaged and empty. The River Pivka draws most of its water from Javorniki, but then only when all the underground watercourses and trails are flooded. And when the mysterious Karst underworld is flooded, in heavy downpours the Pivka quite rapidly bursts its low banks. It floods out across the valley and fills the fields, then countless sinkholes and hollows turn into lakes. One lake in particular, out of the hundreds that gave this area its name, merits special mention. North of the village of Palčje, where the square in front of the Church of St. Nicholas serves as a junction for roads from all the neighbouring villages of Parje, Trnje, Klenik, Pivka and Jurišče, lies a huge, kilometre-and-a-half long and half-kilometre wide basin with a flat bottom. This gets filled up only after lengthy downpours, when it creates the lake of Palško jezero, the biggest lake of the Upper Pivka. Water flows in from karstic springs, the biggest and most famous of which is in the cave of Matijeva jama, a typical karstic spring and sinkhole. Then, when the rain stops and it gets dry, the same cave swallows up the lake water and the lake disappears. The lake is usually at its most stunning shade of blue from November to April, although there is no hard and fast rule. When the heavens open, the lake

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{ In the land of a hundred lakes }

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can fill up in a few days. And it can disappear just as easily in a few days. Of all the lakes, the water stands in Palško jezero for the shortest time, at a total of less than three months a year, and supposedly only the highest-lying lakes up near Šembije are around for less time. When the landscape changes and the lake fills up, curious onlookers start gathering around the lakeside. The land, previously with a deserted and lifeless appearance, becomes a kind of city square. The gathering place is no longer in town, at the marketplace, but on the shores of the lake, where people chat happily, swapping information and gossip, laughing, telling stories and maybe even doing some trading. True, the trade is no longer in oxen, wood or ice, which used to be carted all the way to Trieste and Rijeka, and it is more for fun than anything serious. Others, meanwhile, like to withdraw to the other side of the lake, on other paths, to find solitude and tranquillity. As if they are seeking something magical, as if waiting to see if this wonder of nature will be usurped by an even more improbable landscape. As if there has not yet been the full quota of wonders. And the most persevering are actually rewarded, in the form of pure, natural and simple wonders that are in essence unique. For instance when abundant autumn rainfall gets drawn out into an early, cold winter, and then … then blowing down from Javorniki comes the burja, the real deal, the icy burja! The burja

When the landscape changes and the lake fills up, curious onlookers start gathering around the lakeside. north wind that draws lines on the faces of the local Notranjska people, scours the steely, frozen crystal eyelets of the Pivka river basin, bends the pines double and drives the sheep and goats into the warmth of their pens and safe shelter. And on those winter days not a living soul would want to wander around here, be it human, bird or larger beast. So it happens, sometimes, that in the midst of this wintry frozen expanse you can find yourself completely alone. The mysterious lake landscape changes enchantingly from month to month, from week to week and hour to hour. One moment the sun is beating down, then it’s raining, or there is a burja-driven blizzard that scours you to the bone. For this reason, too, it is more beautiful than the land of a thousand lakes. And this is why visitors to the lake keep coming back. Just like the lake itself. Sometimes for a week or two, sometimes for several months. And it departs the way it arrives, quietly and almost imperceptibly. And when it leaves in spring, it uncovers a carpet of meadow flowers, and even before the start of the hot and dry summer, the hollows are full of dry hay and haystacks. Then autumn and winter come back, and the Pivka once again overflows and fills the countless sinkholes and hollows. And once again the crystal reflections glint in the area called the land of a hundred lakes. Well, actually it’s only me that calls it that.

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Hokej

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Večni zeleno-rdeči hokejski derbiji L

jubitelji slovenskega športa lahko vsako sezono uživajo v prestižnih derbijih med najboljšimi ekipami v različnih športnih panogah, a največjo športno rivalstvo vzbudijo hokejske tekme med Olimpijo in Jesenicami. Več kot 400 odigranih tekem v slovenski in jugoslovanski ligi, pokalnih tekmovanj in mednarodnih lig je prav vsakič privabilo številne gledalce v legendarno hokejsko dvorano Podmežakla na Jesenicah in v Halo Tivoli v Ljubljani.

Besedilo in fotografije: Aleš Fevžer

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{ Hokej }

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okej na ledu se na slovenskih tleh igra od leta 1928, a korenine večnega rivalstva med kluboma segajo v šestdeseta leta prejšnjega stoletja, potem ko so Jesenice leta 1957 osvojile svoj prvi naslov državnega prvaka in nato še dolgih 14 let branile primat vse do leta 1972, ko so si naslov prvič priigrali hokejisti Olimpije. V času popolne prevlade gorenjskih hokejistov so fantje z Jesenic v 167 tekmah izgubili samo štirikrat, kar nazorno priča o njihovi kakovosti. V obdobju igranja v jugoslovanski ligi so slovenski klubi osvojili 33 naslovov državnih prvakov v šestinštiridesetih prvenstvih. V Sloveniji sta Olimpija in Jesenice svoje rivalstvo nadaljevala tudi v krstni sezoni v slovenskem državnem prvenstvu 1991/1992. Po treh zaporednih zmagoslavjih Jesenic je Olimpija osvojila deset zaporednih naslovov (1995–2004), v zadnjih šestih sezonah pa so spet uspešnejše Jesenice, ki so osvojile kar pet naslovov najboljšega v državi. V 432 odigranih srečanjih vodijo Jesenice z 204:200 v zmagah, 28 tekem pa se je končalo neodločeno. Jeseničani so do sedaj osvojili 31 naslovov državnih prvakov, Olimpija pa je bila najboljša devetnajstkrat. Igralci obeh ekip pa tvorijo tudi jedro slovenske državne reprezentance, ki je po dolgih letih igranja v skupini B svetovnega hokeja uspela petkrat nastopiti tudi med najboljšimi reprezentancami sveta, šesti nastop v skupini A pa jih čaka konec aprila in v začetku maja 2011 na Slovaškem.

Žabarji in Plavžarji

Večni derbiji med najuspešnejšima hokejskima kluboma v državi so vedno pravi medijski dogodek. Igralci obeh klubov celo poletje trenirajo z mislijo na tekme, ko bodo palice prekrižali z največjimi rivali. Enako je na navijaških tribunah: v rdečo barvo odeti pristaši Jesenic, ki so združeni v navijaško skupino Red Steelers Ultras Jesenice, in zeleno obarvani ljubljanski Green Dragonsi poskrbijo za goreče vzdušje in z navijanjem, petjem pesmi in skandiranjem podžigajo svoji ekipi, da se borita vseh 60 minut srečanja. Žabarji, kot Ljubljančane zbadajo na Jesenicah, in Plavžarji, kot kličejo Jeseničane v Ljubljani, izkoristijo vsako priložnost za prilivanje olja na ogenj navijaških strasti, ki najmočneje zagorijo na začetku vsakega derbija. Zanimivo pa je, da imajo Jesenice zaradi svojih legendarnih igralcev in uspehov v času Jugoslavije mnogo navijačev tudi v Ljubljani, medtem ko Olimpija na Jesenicah, kjer je hokej najpopularnejši šport v mestu, nikoli ni imela navijačev. Hokejski utrip v obeh mestih pa je postal še zanimivejši v zadnjih petih sezonah, ko so se najprej Jesenice, nato pa še Olimpija priključile razširjenemu avstrijskemu državnemu prvenstvu, kjer v rednem delu sezone odigrajo 54 tekem, sledi pa še končnica z izločilnimi boji za naslov prvaka. Najbližje temu so bili igralci Olimpije, ki so v sezoni 2007/2008 v velikem finalu izgubili proti ekipi Red Bulls iz Salzburga s 4:2 v zmagah. Navijači obeh moštev tako vidijo v domači dvorani več kot 30 izenačenih dvobojev in množico vrhunskih igralcev iz Slovenije, Avstrije, Nemčije, Češke, Slovaške, Rusi-

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{ Hokej }

{ Ice hockey }

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je, Skandinavije, Kanade in ZDA; ti igrajo v najboljših klubih iz 4 držav, ki sodelujejo v ligi. Kvaliteta slovenskih hokejistov tako ni ostala skrita tujim trenerjem in mnogi reprezentanti si že služijo kruh z igranjem v tujini. Najbolj znan slovenski hokejist je zvezdnik NHL moštva Los Angeles Kings; to je Anže Kopitar, ki je začel svojo hokejsko kariero na Jesenicah. Navijači obeh moštev ne spodbujajo igralcev samo takrat, ko zmagujejo, ampak tudi, če jim ne gre vse po načrtih in po porazih sklonjenih glav zapuščajo ledeno ploskev. Med Green Dragonsi in Red Steelersi pa navijaška temperatura doseže vrelišče, ko gre za prestop hokejistov iz enega v drug klub, saj imajo take igralce za izdajalce. V zgodovini slovenskega hokeja je bilo več odmevnih prestopov predvsem iz Jesenic v Olimpijo, saj so že leta 1968 odšli v Ljubljano Rudi in Gorazd Hiti, Roman Smolej, Slavko Beravs in Vlado Jug. Od velikih imen jeseniškega hokeja so pustili pečat v Olimpiji tudi Murajica Pajič, Toni Tišler, Boris Pajič, Ivo Jan, Tom Jug, Robert Kristan in še nekateri. A Jeseničani so Olimpiji vrnili udarec v sezoni 2004/2005, ko so »ljubljančani« Luka Žagar, Gregor Polončič, Jurij Goličič in Peter Rožič zeleni dres zamenjali za rdečega in Jesenicam po sušnih desetih letih ponovno priigrali naslov državnega prvaka. Na Jesenice so iz Olimpije prestopili tudi legendarni igralci Andrej Brodnik v sezoni 19987–1999, Nik Zupančič v sezoni 2000/2001 in Tomaž Vnuk v sezoni 2006/2007, vendar so vsi igrali v rdečem dresu samo eno sezono. Hokejski večeri v Ljubljani in na Jesenicah bodo vroči in strastni tudi letošnjo sezono, saj sta obe ekipi znova izenačeni in navijači nestrpno pričakujejo vsak večni derbi najboljših slovenskih ekip. Predvsem pa veseli dejstvo, da tekme postajajo družabni dogodek, na katerem se srečujejo športniki, gospodarstveniki, estradniki, in da nanje prihaja vse več staršev z otroki, ki nosijo zelene ali rdeče majice, bunde, šale in kape. Večno rivalstvo bo tako še naprej živelo v srcih vseh, ki uživajo v najhitrejši moštveni igri na svetu..

The Perennial

Green-Red

Hockey Derbies Text and photography: Aleš Fevžer

ach season, fans of Slovenian sports can enjoy prestigious derbies between the best teams in various sports, but the greatest sporting rivalry of all is generated by the ice-hockey games between the Ljubljana team Olimpija and Jesenice. Each and every one of the more than 400 matches played in the Slovenian and Yugoslav leagues, cup competitions and international leagues has

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{ Ice hockey }

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drawn big crowds to the legendary ice-hockey arenas of Podmežakla in Jesenice and Hala Tivoli in Ljubljana. Ice hockey has been played in Slovenia since 1928, but the roots of the perennial rivalry between the two clubs stretch back to the 1950s, when Jesenice won their first national champions title in 1957 and then for 14 long years defended their supremacy right up until 1972, when the title was first won by Olimpija’s hockey players. In the years of complete domination by the hockey players from Gorenjska, the Jesenice lads lost only four games out of 167, testament enough to their quality. In the period when they played in the Yugoslav league, Slovenian clubs won 33 national champion titles in 46 championships. In Slovenia, Olimpija and Jesenice continued their rivalry in the inaugural season of the 1991/1992 Slovenian national championship. After three Jesenice victories in a row, Olimpija then won ten successive titles (1995-2004), while over the past six seasons Jesenice have been the more successful team, winning a full five Slovenian titles. Of the 432 games played, Jesenice lead with 204 : 200 wins, while 28 matches were drawn. To date Jesenice have won 31 national titles, while Olimpija have won 19. Meanwhile, players from both teams make up the core of Slovenia’s national side, which after many years of playing in Group B of world hockey has qualified five times to play against the best sides in the world, with a sixth appearance in Group A awaiting the team at the end of April and beginning of May 2011 in Slovakia.

Frogmen and Smelters

The perennial derbies between the most successful ice-hockey clubs in the country are always a major media event. Players from both clubs spend the entire summer training with an eye on the games when they will cross sticks with their greatest rivals. The same goes for the fans in the stands: the red-clad Jesenice supporters, who join together in the fan group Red Steelers Ultras Jesenice, and the green-clothed Ljubljana Green Dragons, bring the atmosphere to a boil, and with their yelling, singing and chanting they fire up their teams to fight through all 60 minutes of the game. The Žabarji, or Frogmen, as the people of Ljubljana are teasingly nicknamed in Jesenice, and the Plavžarji, or Smelters, as the folk of Jesenice are known in Ljubljana, take every opportunity they get to pour oil on the fires of their supporter passions, which burn at their hottest at the start of each derby. An interesting point is that owing to their legendary players and success in Yugoslavia, Jesenice have a lot of supporters in Ljubljana, too, while Olimpija have never had any fans in Jesenice, where ice hockey is the most popular sport. Meanwhile the hockey scene has taken on some even more notable dimensions in the last five seasons, when first Jesenice and then Olimpija joined the expanded Austrian national championship, which involves 54 games in the regular part of the season, followed by the grand finale

with knock-out rounds for the title of champion. The closest the Slovenian teams got was in the 2007/2008 season, when Olimpija lost in the championship final to the Red Bulls of Salzburg, who managed 4 wins to 2. So fans of both teams get to watch at their home arenas more than 30 well-matched duels and a host of top players from Slovenia, Austria, Germany, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Russia, Scandinavia, Canada and the USA, playing for the best clubs from the four countries that are in the league. This means the quality of Slovenian hockey players has been no secret to foreign coaches, and many team players earn their living playing abroad. The best-known Slovenian hockey player is the NHL star of the Los Angeles Kings, Anže Kopitar, who started his playing career in Jesenice. Fans of the two teams don’t just support their players when they win, but also when their game plans go pear-shaped and they trudge off the ice in defeat with their heads down. The passions shared by the Green Dragons and Red Steelers fan groups reach boiling point when hockey players from one club transfer to the other, since such players are regarded as traitors. In the history of Slovenian ice hockey, there have been a number of earth-shattering transfers, mainly from Jesenice to Olimpija, and even back in 1968 Rudi Hiti, Gorazd Hiti, Roman Smolej, Slavko Beravs and Vlado Jug headed off to Ljubljana. Some of the great names of Jesenice hockey who also left their mark as players for Olimpija include Murajica Pajič, Toni Tišler, Boris Pajič, Ivo Jan, Tom Jug and Robert Kristan, but Jesenice struck back at Olimpija in the 2004/2005 season when the “Ljubljanans” Luka Žagar, Gregor Polončič, Jurij Goličič and Peter Rožič ditched their green kit for the red, and helped Jesenice, after ten empty-handed years, win back the title of national champions. Jesenice also secured the transfer from Olimpija of the legendary players Andrej Brodnik in the 1998/1999 season, Nik Zupančič in 2000/2001 and Tomaž Vnuk in 2006/2007, but they all played in the red kit just for one season. This season, too, ice-hockey nights in Ljubljana and Jesenice promise to be fierce and passionate, with both sides once again on an equal footing, and the fans anxiously awaiting each of the perennial derbies between Slovenia’s best teams. One especially pleasing fact is that the games are becoming a social event and a meeting place for sports people, business people and celebrities, and they are being increasingly attended by parents with children, all decked out in either green or red shirts, coats, scarves and caps. The eternal rivalry will thus live on in the hearts of all those who enjoy the fastest team sport in the world.

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{ Dediščina }

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Besedilo: Jana Valenčič

pomladi leta 2008 se je v konservatorskem centru Mestnega muzeja v Ljubljani zbralo nekaj kustosov, snemalec s kamero in pri-

letna opazovalka. Razlog za srečanje so bili trije srednje veliki leseni zaboji. V njih je leta 1940, ko je bila vojna že v zraku, ljubljanska meščanska družina shranila svoje izbrano steklo in najlepši porcelan. Zdaj, nekaj generacij kasneje, so ti predmeti iz zabojev prihajali na svetlo.

»T

ega doslej še nismo videli,« je ugotovil mag. Blaž Vurnik, kustos za sodobno zgodovino, ko se je pod odstranjenimi lesenimi pokrovi pokazala slama. Z belo orokavičenima rokama je segal v zaboj in drugega za drugim dvigal krhke kose, skrbno zavite v več plasti svilenega papirja. Posebno občutljive dele so ovijali še papirnati zvitki. V nekaj urah razvijanja so zaboji razkrili vsebino in stara gospa, njihova lastnica, je po 68 letih spet ugledala družinsko steklo in porcelan, kozarce, sklede …, mnoge predmete, ki jih je zadnjič videla mesece pred začetkom 2. svetovne vojne. Nekaj teh predmetov je kustos sproti odvil in stara gospa je razlagala: spomnila se je, kje so nekoč stali ali za kakšno priložnost je njena mama Jelka Stare, rojena Naglas (1897–1940), naročila služkinjam, naj jih prinesejo iz omare, jih očistijo in spolirajo, da so se kasneje lesketali na mizi, pogrnjeni za goste. V času meščanstva se je družabno življenje pogosto odvijalo doma, posebno še v salonu in v jedilnici. Pomembno vlogo je imela jedilna

Fotografije: Miran Kambič

miza, ponos gostiteljice, ki je z dragocenimi pogrinjki izkazovala družinski status, omiko in aspiracije. Ko se je Jelka Naglas, hči tovarnarja pohištva, leta 1922 poročila z inženirjem Vladijem Staretom, dedičem posestva Kolovec, je po takratnem običaju prinesla v svoj novi dom balo, v kateri je bila celotna oprema za gospodinjstvo. Že prej je dala vgravirat na srebrni jedilni pribor za 12 oseb svoj dekliški monogram »JN« , sama pa ga je izvezla na vsak kos platna, na vsako rjuho, vsak prt. V bali so bili tudi porcelanski servis z zlatim robom za 12 oseb in kompleti kozarcev za različne pijače. Skozi čas je zbirka narasla. Leta 1940 se je Jelka Stare odločila, da krhki zaklad zaščiti in spravi na varno. Firma Kolman, takrat vodilna ljubljanska trgovina s porcelanom (v nekdanji Kolmanovi vili je danes protokolarni objekt Vila Podrožnik), ji je poslala dva uslužbenca, ki sta izbrano steklo in porcelan več dni zavijala v svilen papir in svaljke, kose zaščitila še z ovseno slamo in jih na tesno zložila v močne lesene zaboje. Med vojno je družina zaboje spravila v zaklonišča, kasneje na podstrešje, od tam v predsobo, romali so iz shrambe v shrambo ... Časov, ko je po dvanajst gostov prihajalo na obed, ni bilo več. Od zabojev, ki jih je bilo v začetku vsaj pet, so se ohranili trije. Skozi desetletja so se kljub prekladanju vsi kosi ohranili brez poškodb: kompleti kozarcev, garnitura za bovlo s stekleno zajemalko vred, težke barvaste sklede iz brušenega kristala, zbirka majolik, okrušenih že stoletje pred tem, porcelanske škatlice, jedilni servis z zlatim robom, pladnji za piškote, načičkane porcelanaste posodice za sladkorčke, rokokojsko poslikani kavni servis za turško kavo z enako poslikanim pladnjem, bogato okrašeni kozarci vrste »Ranftbecher«, ki so bili v 19. stoletju popularni spominki, gravirani vrči s srebrnim vrhom … Med steklom sta dva kosa, ki ju je dr. Mateja Kos, kustodinja zbirke Steklo v Narodnem muzeju Slovenije, ocenila kot »neobičajna«. Steklena posoda s pokrovom in krožnik kažeta prirejen klasicistični slog, krožniček, poslikan s figurami na črni podlagi, pa je sodobna interpretacija srednjeveške tehnike.

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{ Dediščina } Kosi stekla in porcelana, ki jih je Jelka Stare kupovala za svojo mizo in vitrino, so narejeni v različnih tehnikah in stilih in izvirajo iz obdobja od sredine 19. stoletja do 2. svetovne vojne. Povečini izhajajo iz avstroogrskih dežel, predvsem iz Češke, ki je slovela po vrhunski kvaliteti, kot pravi doc. dr. Mateja Kos in dodaja, da ima tudi Slovenija dolgo tradicijo kvalitetnega steklarstva. V Staretovem gospodinjstvu niso načrtno zbirali stekla in porcelana. Meščanskih družin s steklom in porcelanom je bilo v takratni Sloveniji precej, sistematsko ohranjenega pa ni veliko. Vsebina Staretovih zabojev je vpogled v življenje določene družbene plasti v Sloveniji med obema vojnama. Je dokument časa in bi sodila v javno zbirko.

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From the Treasure Chests Text: Jana Valenčič

Photography: Miran Kambič

n the spring of 2008 several curators, a cameraman and an observer, an elderly lady, gathered at the Ljubljana City Museum Conservation Centre. The reason for this meeting was three medium-sized wooden chests. In 1940, in anticipation of the war, an upper-middle-class Ljubljana family stored in these chests their precious glassware and finest porcelain. Now, several generations later, these objects were to be brought to light again. “This is something we have not seen before,” stated Blaž Vurnik, the Museum’s curator of contemporary history when the straw beneath the wooden lids was removed, revealing the objects below. Wearing white gloves he reached into the chest and lifted out fragile objects piece by piece, each painstakingly wrapped in several layers of tissue paper. Particularly delicate parts were additionally protected by rolls of paper. After several hours of unwrapping, and the passage of 68 years, the elderly lady – their owner – once again set her eyes on her family glassware and porcelain that she had last seen just months before the onset of the Second World War. As the curator was unwrapping the pieces, the elderly lady described some of them: she recalled where they once stood or the occasions when her mother Jelka Stare née Naglas (1897–1940) asked her maids to bring them from the cupboard to be cleaned and polished so that the pieces would later shine on the dinner table, laid out for guests.

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{ Heritage }

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The bourgeoisie customarily socialised at home, in the setting of the drawing and the dining rooms. The focal role was assigned to the dinner table, the pride of the hostess, who displayed her precious tableware to demonstrate the family’s status, sophistication and aspirations. In 1922, Jelka Naglas, daughter of a furniture manufacturer, married the engineer Vladi Stare, heir to the estate of Kolovec. In line with custom, her dowry contained complete furnishings for her new household. Earlier she had her maiden initials “JN” engraved on the 185-piece silver flatware set for 12 people and she herself embroidered her initials onto her every piece of linen, every sheet and every tablecloth. Her dowry also included a gold-rimmed porcelain set and numerous sets of fine glassware. Over the years her collection grew. In 1940, anticipating the war, Jelka Stare decided to protect her fragile treasure and store it safely. The Kolman firm, a leading Ljubljana porcelain retailer (the former Kolman Villa is now owned by the Slovenian government and renamed Villa Podrožnik) sent two of their employees to the Stare household. The two men spent several days wrapping the precious glass and china in tissue paper, protecting pieces with extra paper rolls and finally with bundles of oat straw before packing them tightly into strong wooden boxes. During the war the family took these chests with them to the air-raid shelters. After the war the chests were stored in the attic, from where they were moved to an anteroom and then from one storage to another. The times when 12 guests would come to dinner were a thing of the past. From at least five chests at the outset only three remained. Throughout the decades and despite the moves all the pieces were undamaged: sets of glasses, a punch bowl set complete with glass ladle, heavy coloured cut-crystal glass dishes, a collection of antique Florentine majolica jugs, chipped a century earlier, exquisite porcelain boxes, a gold-rimmed china tableware set, biscuit trays, fancy porcelain baskets for boiled sweets, a Turkish coffee set painted in the Rococo manner with a tray to match, richly decorated “Ranftbecher” glasses, which were popular souvenirs in the 19th century, engraved silver-rimed crystal decanters and other pieces. Two of the glassware pieces were described as “unusual” by Asst. Prof. Dr Mateja Kos, curator of the Glass collection at the National Museum of Slovenia. The glass bowl with a lid reflects the classical style, whilst a small glass plate with figures painted on a black background is a modern interpretation of the medieval style. The glass and porcelain that Jelka Stare bought for her table and display cabinet were made using various techniques and styles from the mid-19th century to the Second World War. Most of them originate from the Austro-Hungarian provinces, predominantly Bohemia, which was renowned for superlative quality, as Dr. Mateja Kos explains, adding that Slovenia also has a long tradition of high-quality glassmaking. In the Stare household, glass and porcelain were collected to be used. A large number of families belonging to Slovenia’s bourgeoisie possessed similar glassware and porcelain but after the war very little was systematically preserved. For this reason, the contents of the Stare chests offer an insight into the life of a particular stratum of Slovenian society between the two wars. It is a record of its time and should be in a public collection.

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Čile

Največji ( 90 )

teleskopi sveta V

časih si zelo nostalgično predstavljamo umirjen in brezskrben način življenja naših prednikov. No, vse le ni bilo romantično, a v nečem so

bili vendarle bistveno na boljšem, kot smo danes mi. Svetlobnega onesnaženja praktično niso poznali. Ko so zvečer stopili iz svojih hiš na prosto, so tudi v velikih mestih uživali ob pogledu v jasno, z zvezdami posuto nebo. Sodobnemu mestnemu človeku so takšen prizor za vedno onemogočile močne električne svetilke, avtomobilski žarometi in slepeče neonske reklame. Neokrnjeno lepoto zvezdnega neba lahko občudujemo le še na kakšnem samotnem otoku, visoko v gorah ali nenaseljenih pustinjah, kot je znamenita Atakama v Južni Ameriki.

Besedilo in fotografije: Iztok Bončina

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{ Čile }

( 92 )

uščava Atakama na severu Čila se resnično ponaša z najboljšimi pogoji za opazovanje nočnega neba na svetu. Velja za najbolj suh kraj na Zemlji, skoraj nikjer ni motečih svetil, zrak je čist, z relativno nizko stopnjo vlage. Zato je Atakama že nekaj desetletij priljubljeno območje, kjer različne države sveta gradijo sodobne observatorije z ogromnimi teleskopi. Največja evropska organizacija za astronomske raziskave ESO (European Southern Observatory) je v tej državi prisotna že od šestdesetih let prejšnjega stoletja. Čile je k sreči tudi ena najbolj razvitih dežel Južne Amerike, ki lahko nudi znanstvenikom ustrezno tehnično in logistično podporo. »Astronomi danes ne opazujemo več neba neposredno skozi okular teleskopa,« mi je v observatoriju Paranal pojasnjevala Američanka Margaret Moerchen, ki končuje raziskave za podoktorski študij, »ti romantični časi astronomije so že zdavnaj minili. V observatorije pravzaprav sploh ne vstopamo več. Sodobna elektronika prenaša vse informacije iz vesolja, ki jih beležijo teleskopi, razni spektroskopi, snemalne kamere itd., neposredno na velike, zmogljive računalnike v kontrolni sobi.« Observatorij Paranal leži na nadmorski višini 2.630 metrov in je brez dvoma tehnološko čudo sodobnega sveta. Štirje ogromni teleskopi, ki jim s skupnim imenom pravijo kar »zelo velik teleskop« oziroma VLT (Very Large Telescope), so paradni konji evropske astronomije na južni polobli. Zrcalo vsakega od njih meri v premeru kar 8,2 metra. Kadar združijo svetlobo iz dveh ali treh zrcal v t.i. interferometer, postane Paranal najbolj zmogljiv teleskop na svetu. Še večji dosežek sodobne astronomije pa bo ugledal luč sveta čez dobro leto. Na planoti Chajnantor blizu bolivijske meje nastaja na nadmorski višini preko 5000 metrov največji radioteleskop na svetu, poimenovan kar s kratico ALMA. Nekoliko znanstven izraz »Atacama Large Millimeter/submillimeter Array« je preprosto ime za skupino radioteleskopov, ki objektov v vesolju ne bodo opazovali v vidni svetlobi kot njihovi zrcalni sorodniki, temveč v valovnih dolžinah blizu enega

milimetra. Sestavljalo ga bo 66 velikih paraboličnih anten, ki bodo razprostrte na razdaljah tudi do 16 kilometrov! Njihovo zmogljivost mi je slikovito opisal astronom Pere Planesas, ki preizkuša delovanje anten: »Težko bi čisto natančno pojasnili občutljivost tega teleskopa, ko bo dograjen. Odvisna je namreč od mnogih dejavnikov. Si pa mogoče lahko predstavljate, da bomo z njim brez problema zaznali mikrovalovno pečico na Marsu, če jo bo komu uspelo tja dostaviti.«

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{ Ä&#x152;ile }

{ Chile }

The Biggest Telescopes in the World Text and photography: Iztok BonÄ?ina

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ometimes we imagine, with great nostalgia, the tranquil and carefree way of life enjoyed by our ancestors. Well, it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t all wine and roses, but in some way they were definitely better off than we are today. There was practically no light pollution. When they stepped out of their houses in the evening, even in the big cities, they enjoyed clear, star-studded skies. The modern urbanite has been forever deprived of such scenes by powerful electric lights, car headlights and blinding neon advertisements. The unspoilt beauty of the starry heavens can be admired only on remote islands, high in the mountains or in uninhabited deserts, such as the famous Atacama in South America. The Atacama Desert in northern Chile truly boasts the best conditions in the world for observing the night sky. It ranks as the driest place on Earth, there are hardly any obtrusive lights, and the air is clear, with relatively low humidity. So for several decades the Atacama has been a favourite area for several different countries building stateof-the-art observatories with huge telescopes. The biggest European astronomical research organisation, the ESO (European Southern Observatory), has been present in this country since the 1960s. Chile is also fortunately one of the most developed countries of South America, and can offer scientists adequate technical and logistical support.

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{ Chile }

( 96 )

“Astronomers today no longer observe the sky directly through ocular telescopes,” explained American post-doctoral researcher Margaret Moerchen, who is completing her studies at the Paranal Observatory. “Those romantic times of astronomy are long gone. In fact we don’t even go into the observatory any more. Modern electronics transmit all the information from the universe recorded by the telescopes, various spectroscopes, cameras etc. directly to huge, powerful computers in the control room.” The Paranal Observatory lies at an altitude of 2,630 metres, and is without doubt a technological wonder of the modern world. The four huge telescopes, collectively called the VLT (Very Large Telescope), are the flagship of European astronomy in the southern hemisphere. The reflector on each of them has a diameter of 8.2 metres. When the light from two or three of them is combined to make an interferometer, Paranal becomes the most powerful telescope in the world. But an even bigger achievement of modern astronomy will be unveiled in just over a year. Under construction more than 5,000 metres up on the plateau of Chajnantor, close to the Bolivian border, is the biggest radio telescope in the world, known by its abbreviation of ALMA. The somewhat academic title of Atacama Large Millimeter Array is the simple name for the group of radio telescopes that will not observe objects in the universe in visible light, like their reflector relatives, but in wavelengths close to one millimetre. The array will comprise 66 giant parabolic antennae, which will be spread out at distances of up to 16 kilometres! Their power was described to me vividly by astronomer Pere Planesas, who is testing the functioning of the antennae: “It would be hard to describe accurately the sensitivity of the telescope once it is built. It actually depends on many factors. But you could imagine us having no problem picking up a microwave oven on Mars – if someone manages to deliver it there.”

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SLOV EN IJA Nekaj osnovnih podatkov 2

površina (v km )

gozdovi travniki polja in vrtovi sadovnjaki vinogradi

20 273 10 124 5 593 2 471 363 216

forests grassland fields and gardens orchards vineyards

546 324 235 102 46,6

with Croatia with Austria with Italy with Hungary coastline (in km)

20 273 10 124 5 593 2 471 363 216 546 324 235 102 46.6

highest point

najvišja točka

Triglav

territory area (in sq. km)

border length (in km)

dolžina meje (v km)

s Hrvaško z Avstijo z Italijo z Madžarsko obala (v km)

A few facts

2864 m

Triglav

2864 m

population density

gostota naseljenosti

(prebivalcev/km)

(inhabitants/km)

prebivalstvo

2 milijona

population

2 million

Ljubljana

capital

glavno mesto večja mesta: podnebje:

Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje

alpsko, celinsko, sredozemsko

Ljubljana

major towns: climate:

Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje

Alpine, Continental, Mediterranean

language:

jezik:

Uradni jezik je slovenščina, na območjih z mešanim prebivalstvom pa madžarščina in italijanščina. Pri stiku s tujci Slovenci uporabljajo angleščino, nemščino, italijanščino in francoščino.

The official language is Slovene, as well as Hungarian and Italian in areas of mixed population. In contact with foreigners, Slovenes use English, German, Italian and French.

denarna valuta: Denarna valuta je evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahko zamenjate na mejnih prehodih, v bankah, menjalnicah in hotelih.

currency:

prazniki

1. in 2. januar 8. februar 8. april 27. april 1. in 2. maj 25. junij 15. avgust 31. oktober 1. november 25. december 26. december

novo leto Prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik velika noč dan upora proti okupatorju (druga svetovna vojna) praznik dela dan državnosti Marijino vnebovzetje dan reformacije dan spomina na mrtve božič dan samostojnosti

The currency is the euro (EUR). Foreign currency may be exchanged at border crossings, in banks, exchange offices and hotels.

holidays

January 1 & 2 February 8 April 8 April 27 May 1 & 2 June 25 August 15 October 31 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Holiday rešeren Day, P Slovene Day of Culture Easter Sunday and Monday Day of Uprising Against the Occupation (WW2) Labour Day Pentecost Statehood Day Assumption Day Reformation Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Day Independence Day

Duesseldorf

Marseille

EV ROPA EU ROPE

Redni poleti / Scheduled Flights Zimski in poletni vozni red Iz/from LJUBLJANA/Brnik

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Čarterski poleti / Charter Flights Winter and summer timetables Iz/from LJUBLJANA/Brnik

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Amsterdam

606/1122

1.35 h

Antalya

966/1789

Athens

761/1409

2.05 h

Aqaba

1454/2692

3.18 h

Banjaluka

157/291

0.45 h

Cairo

1276/2363

3.25 h

Barcelona

686/1270

1.46 h

Chios

738/1367

2.10 h

Belgrade

267/494

0.65 h

Constanca

654/1211

1.55 h

Brussels

559/1035

1.26 h

Djerba

796/1474

2.20 h

Copenhagen

641/1187

1.39 h

Dubrovnik

292/541

1.05 h

Dublin

1026/1900

2.38 h

Heraklion

832/1540

2.15 h

Frankfurt

420/778

1.07 h

Hurghada

1533/2839

3.45 h

Istanbul

781/1446

1.53 h

Ibiza

799/1480

2.20 h

Kiev

730/1352

2.05 h

Karpathos

996/1844

2.35 h

London (Gatwick)

757/1402

1.56 h

Kefalonija

585/1083

1.45 h

Madrid

929*1722

2.35 h

Kerkira (Corfu)

523/968

1.35 h

Manchester

868/1608

2.11 h

Kos

873/1616

2.20 h

Marseille

510/945

1.40 h

Larnaca

1197/2216

3.00 h

Moscow (Sheremetyevo)

1120/2074

2.35 h

Lefkas (Preveza)

567/1050

1.40 h

Munich

224/415

0.41 h

Lesbos (Mitiline)

746/1381

2.10 h

Paris (C. de Gaulle)

616/1141

1.36 h

Malta

670/1241

2.00 h

Pristina

622/1150

1.50 h

Menorca

646/1196

1.55 h

Podgorica

365/676

1.25 h

Mykonos

793/1468

1.56 h

Sarajevo

222/411

0.41 h

Palma de Mallorca

723/1339

2.10 h

Skopje

413/765

1.07 h

Rhodos

947/1753

2.30 h

Stockholm

910/1685

2.35 h

Samos

823/1524

2.10 h

Tirana

474/878

1.14 h

Santorini

836/1548

2.15 h

Vienna

153/283

0.30 h

Sharm el Sheikh

1505/2787

3.45 h

Zürich

334/619

0.56 h

Skiatos

632/1170

1.50 h

Warsaw

463/859

1.35 h

Split

207/383

0.50 h

Thassos (Kavala)

563/1043

1.45 h

Vienna - Frankfurt

358/663

1.10 h

Tel Aviv

1286/2382

2.57 h

Thessaloniki

571/1057

1.24 h

Zakinthos

632/1170

1.50h

Iz/from PRIŠTINA Munich

646/1196

2.00 h

Duesseldorf

924/1711

2.40 h

Frankfurt

930/1722

2.50 h

2.35 h

Adria Airways has used the map of Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.

Adria Airways

{ Adria Airways }

Flota/Fleet Airbus A319 Število/Total

Dolžina/Length

33.84 m

Višina/Height

11.76 m

Razpon kril/Wingspan

34.10 m

Hitrost/Cruising speed

900 km/h

Višina poleta/Max. altitude

11 700 m

Dolet/Range

6 650 km

Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

135

Canadair Regional Jet 900 Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height

4 32.50 m 7.57 m

Razpon kril/Wingspan

23.20 m

Hitrost/Cruising speed

882 km/h

Višina poleta/Max. altitude

12 496 m

Dolet/Range

3 600 km

Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

Canadair Regional Jet 100/200 LR Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height

7 26.77 m 6.22 m

Razpon kril/Wingspan

21.21 m

Hitrost/Cruising speed

860 km/h

Višina poleta/Max. altitude

12 496 m

Dolet/Range

3 285 km

Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

48/50

Ilustracije: Miha Žnidar

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{ Adria Dobrodošli v letalu AdrieAirways Airways} Spoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimo na nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred letom, med poletom in po pristanku.

Pred letom Ekonomski in poslovni razred Na večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-319, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR in CRJ-900. Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi za poslovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzema kadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumov potovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslovnih salonov na letališčih idr. V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskih tarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.

Nakup vozovnice prek spleta

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Web Check-in V Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsaka minuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet. Web check-in je naša novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavo na let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziroma povsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahko prijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web checkin je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.

Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EU Potnikom svetujemo, da pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev ter njihovih izdelkov je nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se s temi živili lahko prenašajo. V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljage ugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-ta zaseže. Informativni letak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani. Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletni strani www.vurs.gov.si pod poglavjem Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo.

Ročna prtljaga Zaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodna pravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage v velikosti 55 x 40 x 20 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov. Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kose pa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, da predal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njem premaknejo. Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj po izstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite. Letalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirate in kupite na Adrijinih spletnih straneh www.adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnim certifikatom. Elektronske vozovnice prejme potnik po elektronski pošti. V primeru, da potrebujete letalsko vozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudi drugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacije in prodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonski številki: 386 1 369 10 10 ali 080 13 00.

Potujte z elektronsko vozovnico Na vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možno leteti z elektronsko vozovnico. Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti (itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronski naslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj ves čas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom ali osebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim ta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo.

Varnostna pravila Evropska unija (EU) je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejo količino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajo biti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov. Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogoče znova zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne sme biti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače; juhe in sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lase in tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanice tekočih in trdnih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice; ter katerekoli druge snovi s podobno vsebnostjo. Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nanašajo samo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate: • zdravila in nujno potrebna živila, (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih boste uporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujno potrebujete; • tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi, (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni na letališču EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni kupon, ali pa na letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU).

{ Adria Airways } Če ste jih kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečke pred pregledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje na kontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. (Če na letališču EU presedate na drug let, vrečke ne odpiraj-te pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališču ali na zadnjem letališču, če presedate več kot enkrat.) Če imate kakršnekoli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite na svojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.

Med letom Napotki za varnost Z najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilo naše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našli navodila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo, vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite. Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi varnosti in udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom. Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavi oziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov. Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, takoimenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjem ovirajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali pa ogrožajo varnost in udobje sopotnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometa je kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki za tovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen.

Počutje in zdravje Vašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotoka zraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudi pozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete stevardeso. V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenje prve pomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijeten pritisk, do katerega prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska v letalu; težavo boste zlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali z nakazanim zehanjem. Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo, da se večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vaje za raztezanje celega telesa.

Alkohol na letalu V letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo. Kabinsko osebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znake vinjenosti, in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo, da alkohol zaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom deluje na telo hitreje in bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.

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Uporaba elektronskih naprav V letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnoma izključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskim upravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi z elektromagnetnimi valovi lahko motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov. Druge elektronske naprave, kot so prenosni računalniki, CD in DVD predvajalniki ter žepni kalkulatorji, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (če ne povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas, da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem in dosledno upoštevate njihove napotke.

Zamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovana prtljaga Če bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo do nepravilnega ravnanja z vašo registrirano prtljago (velja tudi za prtljago, oddano pred letalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavite na letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/Najdeno, Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonska številka + 386 (0 ) 25 94 339.

Center za stike s potniki V Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobite vse informacije o naši ponudbi in novostih, pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet. Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veseli pa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, po elektronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 13 03 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386 (0)1 369 11 33.

Najemi avtomobilov in hoteli Nevarni predmeti Po mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljeno imeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so: vnetljive tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahko vnetljive snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno.

Na Adrijini spletni strani smo pred kratkim dodali zavihka Rent-a-car in Hoteli, ki vam omogočata najugodnejše najeme vozil in rezervacije hotelskih namestitev. Zelo enostavno: obiščite www.adria.si in poiščite željeni zavihek. Na voljo je nekaj deset tisoč hotelskih objektov na vseh kontinentih, od tistih z eno zvezdico do prestižnih mednarodnih verig ter najemi vozil na več kot 3.400 lokacijah v 128 državah po celem svetu.

{ Adria Airways } Adria Airways Welcomes You Aboard Dear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow us to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flight and after landing.

Before take-off

Republic of Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section Public Announcements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use.

Economy and business class

Carry-on luggage

The majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A319, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR and CRJ-900. A business class ticket is issued according to the current business class tariff and is valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any time and includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additional charge, a larger free luggage allowance, the use of business lounges at airports, etc. Economy class is for passengers with economy class tickets, which are cheaper and carry certain restrictions.

For your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules that permit passengers to have one piece of carry-on luggage of a maximum size of 55 x 40 x 20 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg. Carry-on luggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items may be stored under the seat in front of you if possible. We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as items may have moved during the flight and may fall out. If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on luggage must be surrendered on boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.

Online ticketing

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The cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria's website at www.adria.si. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Online purchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronic tickets via e-mail. If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our Call Centre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.

EU airport security rules

Travel with an electronic ticket You can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airways scheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive a passenger coupon and itinerary in an Adria Airways cover. You can also receive the document via e-mail and print it yourself. You must keep this document with you throughout the journey. At the check-in, present your passport or identity card. The check-in personnel will issue you with your boarding pass. Electronic documentation of the ticket sale means that the ticket status can be verified at any time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of data and reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is no danger of losing the boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form.

Web Check-in At Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling. Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The web check-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection. You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before your scheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selected Adria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added.

Restrictions on bringing food into the EU We advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into the EU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfish and products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animals from the diseases that they can transmit. If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin during routine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “What to bring home” is available on our website. More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the

In 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict the amount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft. You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage. These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparent re-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurised containers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures; mascara; any other item of similar consistency. You can still: • pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage; • carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including baby foods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed; • buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when located beyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraft operated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not open it before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be

{ Adria Airways } confiscated at the checkpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screening at your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once). If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.

During the flight

items such as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highly inflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.

Comfort and health For your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located above your seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of the cabin crew if necessary. The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitude and the air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort. In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you to take frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises for the whole body while seated.

Alcohol on board Consuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board the aircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcohol to passengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight, alcohol has a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.

After landing Delayed, lost and damaged luggage Safety information Our cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft, we ask you to read the instructions carefully before every flight. During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For your own safety and comfort we also recommend that you leave it fastened during the flight. After landing, wait in your seat until the aircraft comes to a complete stop or until the seatbelt sign is switched off. The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriately on the aircraft with what is called a RED CARD. The red card is intended for anyone whose behaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does not observe safety instructions or who threatens the safety and comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is a violation of the law. Placing air traffic in jeopardy is a criminal offence in accordance with Article 330 of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1), carrying with it the penalty of imprisonment.

Use of electronic devices Use of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobile phones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video games with remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagnetic waves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems. Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD players and pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do not cause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing. Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sure to follow their instructions.

Hazardous items Under international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, either on their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous

If problems occur with your checked luggage during your journey (also applies to luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service as soon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)

Passenger Relations Centre Adria's Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and information about our services and can also offer assistance and advice. Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is always welcome. You can contact the Centre in person, in writing, by e-mail to prc@adria.si, by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if calling from Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.

Rent-a-cars and hotels We have recently added two tabs to Adria's website that enables you to book a rent-a-car or hotel accomodation throughout the world at favourable rates. Simply visit www.adria.si, click on the desired tab. Choose from among tens of thousands of hotels on every continent, ranging from one-star hotels to prestigious international hotel chains. Budget Rent-a-Car SloveniaÂ offers Adria Airways customers the best deals on car rental in more than 3,400 destinations in 128 countries!

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Adria Airways

Ostale storitve/Other services

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Prevoz tovora Blagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostno do vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjo računalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku. Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z veseljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovno najugodnejši poti. ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana – Prevoz tovora, telefon: 04 259 43 40, faks: 04 202 30 30, e-pošta: jp.cargo@adria.si

Cargo The Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high quality goods transport to every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with the help of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from reception to delivery. Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatch or deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.

Zaposlene v družbi Adria Tehnika odlikuje vrhunsko tehnično znanje, ki temelji na več kot 40-letnih izkušnjah vzdrževanja letal proizvajalcev McDonnel Douglas, Airbus in Bombardier. Več informacij na spletni strani www.adriatehnika.com.

ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport, Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30, e-mail: jp.cargo@adria.si

Adria Tehnika maintenance staff have superlative technical know-how deriving from more than 40 years' experience in maintaining McDonnell Douglas, Airbus and Bombardier aircraft. For more information visit www.adriatehnika.com.

Čarterski prevozi

Charters

Adria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in z vseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamo agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč. Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnost poletov. E-pošta: charter@adria.si

In addition to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flights from Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agencies, companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the European Union, we can also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies, companies and other carriers. Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services, high quality and punctuality. E-mail: charter@adria.si

katerega postane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.si.

Spoznajte letenje v virtualnem svetu z našimi odličnimi inštruktorji.

Official events carrier

V simulatorju letenja – v 30 minutah za samo 49 EUR (ddv ni vključen v ceno) – boste spoznali osnove letenja. Za rezervacijo termina in dodatne informacije o obisku simulatorja pošljite email na naslov: dare.jarc@adria.si. Letenje je možno po plačilu vnaprej in predhodni rezervaciji termina. Več o ponudbi preberite na spletni strani www.adrialetalskasola.si.

As a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, which increasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideally positioned to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and other international events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offering discounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. With a simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make sure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their destination on time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the Conventions Plus service for major international conferences, which effectively makes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event. For more information write to us at: events@adria.si.

Flight School Learn to fly in a virtual world with our excellent instructors. In our flight simulator you can learn the basics of flying in just 30 minutes for a mere 49 euros (plus VAT). To book a session and for more information about a visit to the simulator, e-mail us at the following address: dare.jarc@adria.si. Booking essential. Payment in advance. For more information visit www.adrialetalskasola.si.

Uradni prevoznik dogodkov Kot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vse pogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, ki organizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodke tako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencem ter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da dogodek poteka uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno, varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliancea lahko za večje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt »Conventions Plus™«, v sklopu

Avio taxi - Panoramski leti Z letalom Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T s tremi sedeži za potnike lahko poletite do vseh večjih mest s špotnimi letališči v Sloveniji in do bližnjih letališč sosednjih držav. Za lete se lahko naročite po telefonu: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) ali 041 636 420 (tel. pilota).

Aviotaxi – Panoramic flights Our Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T, with its three passenger seats, can fly you to all major towns with sports airfields in Slovenia and to nearby airports in neighbouring countries. To book flights, call us on: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) or 041 636 420 (pilot)

Adria Airways

Klubi zvestobe/Loyalty Clubs Partnerska kartica Diners Club-Adria

Diners Club-Adria Partner Card

Potniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločite za skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabo partnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristite nagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles & More. Vsak porabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio in klubom Miles & More, prinaša imetnikom partnerske kartice pomembno dodatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Kartica pa vam odpira vrata in nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsem svetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačno prelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks. Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Passengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint Diners Club and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airways charge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other privileges in the Miles & More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. The agreement between Adria and Miles & More brings partner card holders an important additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the door to free services in more than 130 airport lounges around the world, where you can await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy a refreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes. Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

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Star Alliance Star Alliance partnerstvo

Star Alliance partnership

Adria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 49-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskem in rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra 2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemu združenju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa je napredovala v polnopravno članico združenja. Potnikom tako zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop do svetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi s partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 27 letalskih prevoznikov, ki z več kot 21.000 leti dnevno povezujejo 1160 destinacij v 181 državah. Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki člani Star Alliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa, vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviru programov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam na voljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star Alliancea Round the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih.

Adria Airways has more than 49 years of experience in operating both charter and scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process of European integration and have established partnership arrangements with other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined the Star Alliance, the world's largest airline alliance, as a regional member and she became a full member in January 2010. Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide Star Alliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a global network of flights on 27 airlines, which offer more than 21,000 flights daily serving 1,160 destinations in 181 countries. Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliance member carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access, frequent flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced-price flights are available for numerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star Alliance Round-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adria sales outlet.

Dobrodošli v Miles & More Welcome to Miles & More Razlog več, da poletite z Adrio Airways

One more reason for flying Adria Airways

Adria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jim s tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.

Adria Airways is offering its frequent flyers the Miles & More programme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles on the entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduled routes are included in this network.

Prijava v klub

Club registration

V klub se lahko prijavite s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in v letalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria.si na naših spletnih straneh.

You can join the club by filling in the registration form available at all sales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering on-line at our website, www.adria.si.

Zbiranje milj

Collecting miles

Milje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Dodatne milje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, z najemom vozil, telefoniranjem, nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic. Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji bodo milje pridobili tudi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsak nakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam bo prinesel eno miljo. Milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club - Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Poleg zbiranja milj imajo člani Miles & More še dodatne ugodnosti, kot so prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage idr. Veljavnost zbranih milj je tri leta.

You can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collect additional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases at selected shops and using your credit cards. Miles & More members in Slovenia also receive miles when you use the Diners Club-Adria charge card. Every euro charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. In addition to collecting miles, Miles & More members enjoy additional benefits such as priority on waiting lists, excess baggage allowance and so on. Miles are valid for three years.

Koriščenje milj Zbrane milje lahko uporabite za številne nagrade: brezplačne vozovnice na progah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja, nakup različnih artiklov.

Using miles You can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: free tickets on Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel and various purchases.

Članske kartice Z včlanitvijo postanete član kluba in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženo število zahtevanih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višje nivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senator in HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženje milj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad.

Membership cards You become a club member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required number of miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silver member or Frequent Traveller, or gold member or Senator, or HON Circle Member. A higher level of membership offers you special benefits. Always have your membership card on hand, because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards.

Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance! Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member! Informacije o zbranih miljah, novostih v klubu, naročila nagradnih vozovnic in drugih nagrad v klicnem centru Miles & More dobite na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 ali na naslovu www.adria.si. Navesti morate člansko številko in PIN številko. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacije na voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.

For information on miles, Club news, to order free tickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440 or visit our website at www.adria.si. You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN. We’ll be happy to take your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm, and service is also available in English and German outside these hours.

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Prodaja vozovnic in rezervacije Ticket Offices and Booking Klicni center: telefon 00386 (0)1 36 91 010 Brezplačna številka v Sloveniji: 080 13 00 w w w. a d r i a . s i Adria Airways Zgornji Brnik 130h 4210 Brnik - Aerodrom Tel.: +386 (0)1 36 91 010 E-mail: booking@adria.si

Poslovalnice / Sales offices:

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LJUBLJANA Gosposvetska 6 1000 Ljubljana Klicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00 Tel.: +386 (0)1 23 91 910 Fax: +386 (0)1 23 21 668 E-mail: adr.gosposvetska@adria.si Letališče Jožeta Pučnika LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA Jože Pučnik Airport Adria Airways Sales Office Klicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00 Tel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245 Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461 E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.si AMSTERDAM Adria Airways, Netherlands P.O. Box 75644 1118 ZR Schiphol Triport Tel.: +31 20 625 11 22 Fax: +32 2 753 23 37 E-mail: adr.amstown@adria.si Airport Ticketing Desk Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Globeground Ticketing Desk Terminal 3, opposite check-in row 20 Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600 Fax: +31 20 79 52 601 E-mail: adr.amsariport@adria.si ATHENS Adria Airways, General Sales Agent K.G. KOMPAS GREECE, 572 Vouliagmenis Ave & Karaiskaki, 164 51 Athina Argiroupoli Tel.: + 30 21 09 94 7263, Fax: + 30 21 09 94 7288, E-mail: adr.athens@adria.si BANJALUKA Bosnia and Herzegovina SKY SRPSKA Tel.: +397 (0)51 220 330 Mobile: +387 (0)65 321 817 E-mail: office@sky srpska.aero BARCELONA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Kompas Spain C/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a 08036 Barcelona Tel.: + 34 93 246 67 77 Fax: +34 93 245 41 88 E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.si

BELGRADE Adria Airways Representative Office OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Airport “Nikola Tesla” 11180 Belgrade 59 Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457, 2286458, 2097457 E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me, adr.belgrade@adria.si

KIEV General Sales Agent: AVIAREPS town office Chervonoarmijska st. 9/2 Office number 2 01004 Kiev, Ukraine Tel.: +38 044 287 07 47 Fax: +38 044 490 65 04 E-mail: jp.ukraine@aviareps.com

PODGORICA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Oki Air International Ivana Vujoševića 46 81000 Podgorica Tel.: +382 (0) 20 201 201 Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 241 154 Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

BRUSSELS Adria Airways Brussels Airport – Box 4 1930 Zaventem Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336 Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337 E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.si Adria Airways Ticket Desk Airport Zaventem / Brussels Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 337

Adria Airways Borispol International Airport Ticketing agent: Aquavita Tel.: +38 044 230 00 49, 230 00 50 Fax: +38 044 230 00 48 E-mail: adr.kievairport@adria.si

Adria Airways Ticket Office Podgorica Airport OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 623 232 Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

LONDON, MANCHESTER, DUBLIN Adria Airways - London Gatwick Airport Ticketing Agent: Skybreak North Terminal, Zone A, Ticket Desk Tel.: +44 (0) 1293 507 182 Fax: +44 (0) 1293 507 144 Reservations: Tel: +44 (0) 1293 555 707 E-mail: info@adria.si

PRISTINA Adria representative office – town office Pal Palucij 3, 38000 Pristina Tel.: +381 (0)38 54 34 11 Tel. & Fax: +381 (0)38 54 32 85 E-mail: adr.pristina@adria.si

COPENHAGEN Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDEN Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78 Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Copenhagen Airport Terminal 2, Floor 2, Office 230 2770 Kastrup, Denmark Tel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si FRANKFURT Adria Airways Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1, Building 201 Room 201. 4043/4044 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721 Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730 E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Frankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall B Sales Desk 307 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722 ISTANBUL Adria Airways General Sales Agent Ordu Cad No. 206/1 34470 Laleli, Istanbul Tel.: +90 (0)212 51 24 232 Fax: +90 (0)212 51 24 234, 51 25 436 E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.si

MADRID Prosimo obrnite se na predstavništvo v Barceloni. Please contact our GSA in Barcelona. Tel.: + 34 91 575 0628 MOSCOW Adria Airways Derbenevskaja 4 113 114 Moscow Tel.: +7 495 727 08 85 Fax: +7 495 727 08 88 E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.si Adria Airways Sheremetyevo Airport 6th Floor, Room Nr. 42 (6.42) Tel.: +7 495 578 80 24 MUNICH Prosimo, obrnite se na predstavništvo v Frankfurtu. Please contact our office in Frankfurt. PARIS Adria Airways 94 rue Saint Lazare 75009 Paris Stopnišče A, II. nadstropje Staircase A, 2nd floor Tel.: +33 (0)1 47 42 95 00 Fax: +33 (0)1 47 42 00 67 E-mail: adr.paris@adria.si

Ticket issue at the airport Tel.: +381 (0) 38 548 437 Fax: +381 (0) 38 548 437 Mobile: +377 44 501 241 SARAJEVO Adria Airways Representative and Information Ferhadija 23 71000 Sarajevo Tel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26 Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92 E-mail: adria@bih.net.ba Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Sarajevo International Airport Tel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331 E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.si SKOPJE Adria Airways General Sales Agent AAM dooel Ulica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/8 1000 Skopje Tel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975 Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531 E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Skopje Airport Tel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133 STOCKHOLM Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, Sweden Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 4778 Fax: +46 0)42 14 4778 Mobil.: +46 708 28 4778 E-mail: adr.stockholm@adria.si

TEL AVIV Adria Airways Mirus Services (1996) Ltd. General Sales Agent 8 Mendele Str. Tel Aviv 63432 Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161 Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895 Adria Airways Ticket Desk Ben Gurion Airport Laufer Aviation Ltd. Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300 Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022 TIRANA Adria Airways Albania Europian Trade Center Street bajram Curri No. 19 Town Office Tel.: +355 4 227 4666 Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666 Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614 Airport Tel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911 Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611 E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.si VIENNA Reservations and purchase Adria Airways Station A-1300 Vienna Airport Tel.: +43 (1) 700 736 913 Fax: +43 (1) 700 736 914 E-mail: adr.vienna@adria.si WARSAW Adria Airways, General Sales Agent GLOBAIR Polska Sp z o.o. Marszalkowska St. 28, office number 1U-35 Warsaw 00-576 Tel: +48 (022) 696 85 20 Fax: +48 ( 022) 696 85 24 Mobile: +48 696 49 14 77 E-mail: adr.warsaw@adria.si www.globairgroup.com ZAGREB Adria Airways Praška 9 10000 Zagreb Tel.: +385 (0)1 48 10 011, 48 10 016 Fax: +385 (0)1 48 10 008 E-mail: adr.zagreb@adria.si ZÜRICH Adria Airways Loewenstrasse 54/II. 8001 Zürich Tel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93 Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66 E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Zürich Airport Terminal B-2-521 Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437