Adria In-flight Magazine June, July 2010 by Adria Airways

VAŠ BREZPLAČNI IZVOD/YOUR PERSONAL COPY

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine junij, julij • June, July 2010

Spoštljivo do narave

Respectful Towards Nature

Miha Krofel München • Munich

Pestrost življenja v kalnem morju • Gayness of Life in the Murky Sea Fotolov • Photohunting Vremščica Bohinj Park Eko Hotel • Bohinj Park Eco Hotel

»Ljubljana je vriskala« • “Ljubljana Exulted” Urbančeva hiša v Ljubljani • The Urbanc Building in Ljubljana Japonska • Japan

{ Predsednikovo pismo } Drage potnice, cenjeni potniki!

Dear passengers,

Prisrčno pozdravljeni na našem letalu!

Welcome aboard this Adria Airways flight.

At a time of crisis in the aviation industry, fleet optimisation is still one of the key elements in the adaptation of an individual carrier to competitive market conditions. That is why, at the beginning of May, Adria completed the largest fleet modernisation in its history: over the last three years we have introduced four new Bombardier CRJ900 regional jets and two Airbus A319 airliners to the fleet. Today Adria can claim to operate one of the most modern fleets in Europe. A total of 14 aircraft are currently flying in Adria livery: one Airbus A320, two Airbus A319, four CRJ900 and seven CRJ100/200. With their 135 seats, the new A319 airliners will be used both for scheduled services within Europe and for longer charter flights. They offer us optimal capacity for our needs. These environmentally and technically efficient aircraft are powered by two International Aero Engines IAE V2500 engines. Their engines are of the latest design and feature technological improvements that contribute to greater efficiency as regards fuel consumption and emissions. Adria Airways took delivery of its first IAE V2500-engined Airbus A320 in 1989, becoming the first carrier to use this engine on an A320. In 1990 Adria’s A320 completed the longest non-stop flight by an aircraft of this type: from the Seychelles in the Indian Ocean to Athens in Greece. Years of exemplary cooperation link Adria to both Airbus and Bombardier Aerospace, the producer of the CRJ series of regional jets. Adria’s cooperation with Airbus dates all the way back to the introduction of the A320 programme in the 1980s. The A320, which includes the A318, the A319, the A320 and the A321, sets the standard for narrow-body airliners and at the same time ranks as the best-selling commercial aircraft of all time. With its proven reliability and extended service life, the A320 family guarantees the lowest operating costs of any narrow-body aircraft. Adria enjoys equally good cooperation with Bombardier Aerospace, which has twice awarded Adria its Annual Airline Reliability Performance Award in the CRJ100/200 category. Adria enjoys a good corporate reputation in its home country, also. Members of the business community have put Adria in an enviable 19th place on the prestigious list of the 20 most admired companies in Slovenia. Those of you who have not yet decided where to spend your holidays are invited to visit our website, www.adria-airways.com, where you will find a wide range of Adria services and, without a doubt, the perfect destination for your requirements. foto: Dean Dubokovič

V času krize v letalskem prometu je optimizacija flote še vedno eden ključnih elementov pri prilagajanju posameznega prevoznika konkurenčnim razmeram na trgu. Zaradi tega smo v začetku maja v Adrii dokončali največjo prenovo flote v svoji zgodovini: v zadnjih treh letih smo v floto vpeljali štiri nove Canadairje CRJ-900 in dva Airbusa A-319. Tako se lahko danes v Adrii pohvalimo, da opravljamo svoje lete z eno najsodobnejših flot v Evropi. V naših barvah leti ta čas skupno štirinajst letal: letalo tipa Airbus A-320, dve letali tipa Airbus A-319, štiri letala tipa CRJ-900 in sedem letal tipa CRJ-100/200. Novi letali A-319 – vsako ima po 135 sedežev – sta namenjeni tako letom na rednih evropskih linijah kot tudi daljšim čarterskim poletom. Nudita nam optimalno zmogljivost za naše potrebe. Sta ekološko in tehnično učinkoviti letali, ki ju poganjajo motorji IAE V-2500 proizvajalca International Aero Engines. Njihovi motorji se ponašajo z najnovejšim letalskim dizajnom in tehnološkimi izboljšavami, ki prispevajo k večji učinkovitosti glede porabe goriva in emisij. Že leta 1989 je Adria Airways prevzela svoj prvi Airbus A-320 z motorji International Aero Engines V-2500 in tako postala prvi letalski prevoznik s tem tipom motorjev za upravljanje letala A-320. Najdaljši let brez postanka s Sejšelov v Indijskem oceanu do Aten v Grčiji pa je tudi s tem modelom letala opravilo naše letalo 1990. leta. Z obema proizvajalcema letal, tako Airbusom kot Bombardierjem, proizvajalcem letal Canadair Regional Jet, nas veže dolgoletno zgledno poslovno sodelovanje. Z družbo Airbus sodelujemo že vse od uvedbe programa A-320 v osemdesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja. Družina A-320, ki vključuje A-318, A-319, A-320 in A-321, slovi kot vzorčna skupina ozkotrupnih letal, obenem pa predstavlja najbolje prodajano komercialno letalo vseh časov. S svojo preverjeno zanesljivostjo in podaljšano življenjsko dobo zagotavlja družina A-320 najnižje operativne stroške med ozkotrupnimi letali. Prav tako dobro sodelovanje imamo tudi z družbo Bombardier Aerospace, ki je Adrii že dvakrat podelila nagrado najzanesljivejšega letalskega prevoznika v kategoriji letal Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200. Adria pa je kot ugledno podjetje znana tudi v domovini. V poslovnem svetu se je na prestižni lestvici kluba 20 najuglednejših podjetij v Sloveniji uvrstila na zavidljivo 19. mesto. Dragi potniki, če se še niste odločili, kje preživeti počitnice, vas vabim, da si ogledate naše spletne strani www.adria.si, kjer boste našli pestro paleto naših storitev in prav gotovo tudi destinacijo, ki bo ustrezala vašim pričakovanjem.

I wish you a pleasant flight.

Želim vam prijeten let.

Tadej Tufek, MSc Mag. Tadej Tufek, predsednik uprave

Chairman of the Management Board & CEO

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Vsebina/Contents 34

Adrijin potnik/Adria Passenger

Miha Krofel Miha Krofel Urban Golob

MÜnchen/Munich

Belo modro nebo White-blue Sky Blaž Zupančič

Janez Pukšič

Spoštljivo do narave/ Respectful Towards Nature Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Revija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways flights.

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Izdajatelj/Published: Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d. Adria Airways, The Airline of Slovenia Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik - Aerodrom Uredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc Bukovec Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4541 E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.si Urednica / Edited by: Meta Krese Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka Dvoršak Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4526 E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si Oblikovanje in AD /Design and AD: LUKS Studio Prevod /Translated by: Amidas Lektorica/Language editing: Vera Samohod Fotoliti /Lithography: Schwarz d.o.o. Tisk /Printed by: Schwarz d.o.o.

ISSN 1318-0789

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo. The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publ isher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. Brezplačen izvod /Your personal copy

Dno ob piranski Punti/The Seabed Off Piran Point

Pestrost življenja v kalnem morju Gayness of Life in the Murky Sea Borut Furlan

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Fotolov

Photohunting Alojzij Skvarča

Vremščica: na pašo skupaj z ovcami Vremščica: to Pasture with the Sheep Stane Sušnik

Bohinjski kot/Bohinj

Bohinj Park Eko Hotel – ustvarjen z naravo Bohinj park Eco Hotel – Created with Nature Mate Dolenc

Zgodba iz zgodovine nogometa/ A Story from the History of Football

»Ljubljana je vriskala« “Ljubljana Exulted” Tomaž Pavlin

Ljubljana

Urbančeva hiša v Ljubljani The Urbanc Building in Ljubljana Alja Bukovec

Japonska/Japan

Vrtna kontemplacija A Garden Contemplation Charlotte Anderson

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Adria Airways Novosti/News 28. marca smo prešli na poletni vozni red, ki ostaja v veljavi do 30. oktobra 2010. V tem obdobju vam Adria Airways ponuja več kot 225 poletov na teden iz Ljubljane na več kot 25 evropskih destinacij, lete Frankfurt–Dunaj ter v sodelovanju s partnerji Star Alliancea možnost potovanja po vsem svetu. V poletnem voznem redu 2010 smo ponovno vzpostavili poletne redne povezave z Atenami, Barcelono, Madridom, Dublinom, Manchestrom in Stockholmom. V sodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami vas s čarterskimi poleti vabimo v priljubljene počitniške destinacije: v Egipt (Sharm el Sheik in Hurgada), na grške otoke Kreto (Heraklion in Chania), Rodos, Kos, Santorini, Karpatos, Kefalonijo, Krf, Zakintos, Skiatos, Samos, Chios, Mitilini, Lefkas in Tasos, v Španijo na Palmo de Mallorco in Menorco ter v Turčijo (Antalya), na Malto in na na Hrvaško (Dubrovnik).

Summer timetable

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Adria moved over to its summer timetable on 28 March. The timetable is valid until 30 October 2010 and offers more than 225 flights a week from Ljubljana to over 25 European destinations, flights between Frankfurt and Vienna and, in conjunction with our Star Alliance partners, connections throughout the world. The summer 2010 timetable once again includes scheduled summer services to Athens, Barcelona, Madrid, Dublin, Manchester and Stockholm. In conjunction with tour operators we offer charter flights to the following popular holiday destinations: Sharm el Sheik and Hurgada (Egypt), Crete (Heraklion in Chania), Rhodes, Kos, Santorini, Karpatos, Mykonos, Kefalonia, Corfu, Zakynthos, Skiathos, Samos, Chios, Mytilene, Lefkada and Tassos (all Greece), Palma de Mallorca and Menorca (Spain), Antalya(Turkey), Malta and Dubrovnik (Croatia).

TAM AIRLINES postal nov član združenja Star Alliance Vodilna brazilska letalska družba se je v maju priključila združenju Star Alliance. TAM Airlines ima v ponudbi več kot 40 destinacij v Braziliji in 10 letališč po Južni Ameriki. V preteklih letih je ta letalska družba razširila svojo medcelinsko mrežo, da bi zajela tudi razne cilje v ZDA in Evropi; marsikateri od teh so tudi vozlišča združenja Star Alliance. Združenje Star Alliance ima zdaj skupno 27 članov, ki ponujajo več kot 21.050 dnevnih letov na 1.167 destinacij v 181 državah. Priljubljeni program »Round the World Fare« zdaj ponuja številne nove popotne kombinacije po Braziliji in Južni Ameriki ter tudi več letov med Brazilijo in Evropo ter ZDA.

TAM Airlines becomes a new member of the Star Alliance The leading Brazilian airline joined the Star Alliance in May. TAM Airlines serves over 40 destinations in Brazil and 10 other destinations in South America. In recent years TAM has expanded its intercontinental network to include various destinations in the USA and Europe. Many of these are also Star Alliance hubs. The Star Alliance now has 27 members offering over 21,050 flights a day to 1,167 destinations in 181 countries. The popular Star Alliance “Round the World Fare” ticket now offers several new travel combinations within Brazil and South America as well as a range of flights between Brazil and Europe and the USA.

Foto: A. Kersnič

Poletni vozni red

Sprejem še drugega letala A-319 Adria Airways je v sredo, 12. maja, v svojem hangarju predstavila Airbus A-319, zadnje letalo, s katerim je izpopolnila svojo floto. Novo letalo, ki potnikom ponuja več udobja in je varčnejše z gorivom, si je ogledal tudi prometni minister Patrik Vlačič. »Zaključujemo najobsežnejšo posodobitev flote v vsej Adrijini zgodovini,« je na slavnostni predstavitvi povedal predsednik uprave mag. Tadej Tufek. »Stare in odslužene airbuse smo nadomestili z dvema novima, ki s 135 sedeži nudita optimalno zmogljivost za naše potrebe. Prvega, A-319, smo že preizkusili in se je izkazal. Novi letali bosta leteli na naših rednih linijah, ponudili pa ju bomo tudi zakupnikom čarterskih poletov.« Posodobitev flote se pridružuje številnim drugim ukrepom, s katerimi skušamo prebroditi globalno finančno krizo, ki je posebej prizadela prav letalske prevoznike. Uprava družbe je tako izpolnila svoje strateške načrte pri posodabljanju flote Adrie Airways. Pred tem je floto Canadairov že opremila s štirimi novimi letali tipa CRJ-900. »Adria Airways je s svojo dejavnostjo zagotavljanja rednega zračnega prometa za Slovenijo, za naše državljanke in državljane velikega pomena,« je v spodbudnem nagovoru povedal minister za promet Patrick Vlačič in dodal: »Širitev flote in rast obsega letalske družbe je pogumen korak naprej k večji konkurenčnosti Adrie Airways v evropskem letalskem prostoru.«

Arrival of the second A319 On Wednesday 12 May, Adria Airways presented the latest addition to its fleet, a new Airbus A319, in its hangar. Transport minister Patrick Vlačič was present at the unveiling of the new aircraft, which offers passengers greater comfort and is more efficient in terms of fuel consumption. “We have now concluded the most extensive fleet modernisation in Adria’s history,” said Adria CEO Tadej Tufek at the presentation ceremony. “We have replaced our old Airbuses with two new aircraft whose 135 seats offer an optimal capacity for our needs. We have already put the first A319 through its paces and it has acquitted itself well. The two new aircraft will operate our scheduled services and will also be available for charter flights.” The modernisation of the fleet joins several other measures designed to help the airline weather the global financial crisis, which has particularly affected the aviation industry. Adria’s management has now completed the implementation of its strategic fleet modernisation plans, having previously added four new Bombardier CRJ900 regional jets to the Adria Airways fleet. “By providing scheduled air services for Slovenia, Adria Airways is very important to citizens,” said transport minister Patrick Vlačič at the presentation ceremony. “The enlargement of the fleet and the growth of the airline is a courageous step towards increasing the competitiveness of Adria Airways in the European aviation sector.”

Aktualne ponudbe/Latest Offers V vsaki številki revije vas bomo seznanjali z najnovejšimi ugodnimi ponudbami, ki jih za vas pripravljamo skozi vse leto. / We will keep you up to date with our latest special offers in each issue of the magazine. Special offers are available throughout the year.

Ujemi ugoden polet! Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu »Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašim potrebam, imamo na voljo znižane ponudbe tudi za potovanje med tednom.

Adria Airways Special Offers! Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a “buy early, fly for less” basis. In order to make our offer even more attractive, reduced fares are available for travel during the week.

Poletna vročica se prične z nami! Za prihajajoče poletje smo pripravili za vas posebne ponudbe s privlačnimi cenami za enodnevne in večdnevne izlete v različna evropska mesta. Akcija bo potekala od 10. junija do 31. avgusta in je namenjena družinam, mladim do 24. leta ter starejšim od 60. leta dalje. Za informacije in rezervacije pokličite številko našega rezervacijskega centra 080 13 00 ali pa obiščite pooblaščeno potovalno agencijo.

The summer heat starts with us! For the coming summer we have prepared a range of special offers at attractive prices for day trips and city breaks to various destinations in Europe. Offers will run from 10 June to 31 August and are aimed at families, those under 25 and those aged 60+.

Adria Outlet and other Adria Airways special offers online The Adria Outlet gives you the chance to buy one-way tickets at specially reduced prices. If you are the sort of person who likes to decide on the spur of the moment and is easily tempted, you will find plenty to interest you in our wide range of destinations. Don’t miss our other special offers – keep up to date by visiting

www.adria-airways.com.

Delujem ekonomično, potujem poslovno! Za nakup letalske vozovnice vsaj sedem dni pred začetkom vašega potovanja vam za ceno potovanja v ekonomskem razredu nudimo polet v poslovnem. Ponudba velja za nakup vozovnice v ekonomskem razredu po najvišji ceni. Edina omejitev je nakup vozovnice najmanj sedem dni pred odhodom; spremembe rezervacij so brezplačne.

Varčujem, a ne na račun kakovosti! Več o ponudbi preberite na www.adria.si ali pa pokličite tel. št. 080 13 00.

Work economically, travel in business! When you buy a ticket at least 7 days in advance, you can travel in business class for the price of an economy class fare. This offer applies to economy class tickets purchased at the highest rate. The only restriction is that you must purchase your ticket at least 7 days before you travel. Changes to the reservation can be made free of charge.

Savings, no change in quality! For information and bookings, call our reservations centre on 080 13 00 or visit an authorised travel agent.

Adria Outlet in ostale posebne ponudbe Adrie Airways na spletu Outlet _inflight:Layout 1

19.5.2008

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V Adria Outletu vas čakajo priložnosti za nakup enosmernih vozovnic po posebno ugodnih cenah. Tiste, ki se radi prepuščate hitrim odločitvam in se zlahka pustite zapeljati, bo prebudila pestra ponudba naših destinacij. Ne spreglejte tudi ostalih posebnih ponudb in bodite stalno obveščeni, zato nas redno obiskujte na www.adria.si.

For more information visit www.adria-airways.com or call us on 080 13 00.

Adrijine E-novice Vabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavite na Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o naših novostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenih informacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic. Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!

Adria E-news Why not visit our website www.adria-airways.com and subscribe to Adria’s E-news service? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and special offers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuable source of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.

Let information be your advantage!

ZURICH– LJUBLJANA– ISTANBUL

SARAJEVO– LJUBLJANA– KOPENHAGEN

PARIZ– LJUBLJANA– SKOPJE

CHF 428

EUR 264

EUR 247

MOSKVA– LJUBLJANA

EUR 345

Letališke takse in pristojbine so vključene v ceno. Strošek rezervacije ni vključen. / All taxes, fees are included in the price. Reservation Service Fee is not included. More info at www.adria-airways.com

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{ Adria Airways }

Vulkanski pepel ohromil Evropo Besedilo: Borut Podgoršek

zbruh vulkana Eyjafjallajökull na Islandiji je za teden dni ustavil celoten civilni letalski promet nad Evropo. Naravi je uspelo, kar človeku še ni.

Kdo, kdaj in na podlagi česa je odločal o usodi 1,2 milijona potnikov, ki dnevno letijo po Evropi, nam je

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razložil direktor Direktorata za civilno letalstvo (DCL)

Foto: B. Podgoršek

na Ministrstvu za promet, mag. Mirko Komac.

ogledi na nastalo situacijo so seveda različni. Tu je več interesnih skupin, ki imajo različne cilje. Na eni strani so ministrstva in njihove službe, ki skrbijo za varnost v letalstvu, na drugi poslovni subjekti, za katere je v prvi vrsti važen zaslužek, in na tretji strani so potniki. Zanje je večinoma najbolj pomembno, da pridejo iz točke a v točko b brez nepotrebnih 'kolobocij'. V primeru izbruha vulkana sta kratko potegnila slednja dva – letalske družbe in potniki. In kdo jim je povzročil nevšečnosti? Po besedah mag. Mirka Komca je Ministrstvo za promet tisto, ki lahko na podlagi 2. odstavka 11. člena Zakona o letalstvu izda odločbo o omejitvi in prepovedi letenja v Sloveniji. Seveda pa morajo biti za izdajo takšne odločbe tehtni argumenti. Glede na to, da je oblak vulkanskega pepela dosegel Slovenijo dan kasneje kakor severni del Evrope, so stanje pri nas že budno spremljali. Bili so v stalnih stikih s službo letalske meteorologije (SLM) pri Agenciji RS za okolje in s Kontrolo zračnega prometa Slovenije (KZPS), ti dve pa s pristojnimi evropskimi institucijami. Podatke o količini vulkanskega pepela je posredoval londonski svetovalni center za spremljanje vulkanskega pepela, ki je v skladu z mednarodnimi konvencijami pristojen za spremljanje vulkanskih izbruhov v severni Evropi. Na podlagi teh podatkov in v koordinaciji s SLM ter KZPS so se tako odločili, da 16. aprila ob 23. uri zaprejo slovenski zračni prostor, je pojasnil Komac. Odločitev o zaprtju se mu zdi utemeljena in ne preuranjena, še manj 'brezglava'. Varnost v letalskem prometu je na prvem mestu in pri tem interesi posameznih vpletenih subjektov nikakor ne morejo biti drugačni. Danes bi z enakimi podatki ravnali enako, je zatrdil Komac. Glede na pridobljene izkušnje pa že danes svoje odločitve sprejemajo na podlagi novih spoznanj, ki temeljijo na znanstvenih raziskavah. Kar nekaj znanstvenih inštitucij po Evropi in v ZDA je opravilo testne lete, ki so pokazali navzočnost delcev pepela v zraku in njihov vpliv na letala in njihove sisteme. Ena izmed njih je nemška DLR (Nemški letalski raziskovalni center), ki je z namensko opremljenim falconom 20E opravila kar nekaj letov nad Nemčijo. Zaznali so delce, večje od 3 mikronov, a se je njihova gostota hitro spreminjala. Na letalu in motorjih niso opazili nobenih poškodb. Švicarski MetAir je prav tako opravil testne lete in poročal o zmanjšani vidljivosti v oblaku in hitrem spreminjanju količine delcev v zraku. Že pred leti so imeli pri NASI izkušnjo z letenjem skozi vulkanski prah. Njihovo letalo DC-8 je februarja 2000 naključno letelo skozi oblak vulkanskega pepela, česar pa posadka sploh ni opazila. Popoletna analiza stanja motorjev je pokazala, da je pepel zamašil luknjice na turbinskih lopaticah (preko njih teče hladnejši

zrak, ki ohlaja lopatice) in se sprijel tudi s površino lopatic. Stroški popravila motorjev so znašali 3,2 milijona dolarjev, letalo pa je letelo 360 km stran od mesta, kjer je bilo jedro pepelnatega oblaka. Od 19. aprila dalje NASA preko satelita redno spremlja količino žveplovega dioksida (SO2) v ozračju nad Evropo. SO2 je namreč dokaj zanesljiv pokazatelj koncentracije vulkanskega pepela v zraku. Podatki s satelita EOS-Aura so mnogo bolj zanesljivi kakor uveljavljene metode z opazovanjem, tako radarskim kakor vizualnim. Mednarodna organizacija civilnega letalstva (ICAO) je sicer v zadnjih 15 letih obravnavala 80 primerov, ko so letala priletela v pepelnat oblak. Žrtev k sreči ni bilo. Da bi letalska industrija v že tako nezavidljivih časih izgubila čim manj prihodkov, so se še v času prepovedi letenja preko videokonference sestali evropski ministri za promet. Na podlagi znanstvenih raziskav so odločali o treh možnostih za ureditev nevzdržne situacije. Odločali so se med tremi možnostmi. Prva je bila popolno zaprtje zračnega prostora, druga le delno zaprtje v območju 110 km okrog pepelnega oblaka. Predvideli so tudi obvezen pregled letala in motorjev ter drugih sistemov, ki se lahko poškodujejo zaradi pepela. Končno odločitev o izvedbi leta pa so prepustili pilotu letala. Tretja možnost je bila popolna liberalizacija letenja, s tem da meteorološke in navigacijske službe zagotavljajo vse potrebne podatke za letenje, letalske družbe pa se same odločajo, ali bodo letele ali ne, in s tem prevzemajo tudi vso odgovornost za varnost in morebitne posledice. Zbor ministrov se je odločil za drugo možnost. Kar zadeva povračilo škode letalskim organizacijam (poleg letalskih družb tudi letališčem in drugim, z letalstvom povezanim subjektom) in potnikom, je Komac povedal, da so pravila o pomoči pravnim subjektom določena v Pogodbi o delovanju EU (člen 107, točka 2. b dopušča pomoč povrnitve škode, ki so jo povzročile naravne nesreče ali izjemni dogodki); potnikom pa določa pravice ob odpovedih in zakasnitvah letov Uredba št. 261/2004[1] in št. 889/2002.[2]. Direktorat za civilno letalstvo je vse oškodovane pravne subjekte, ki delujejo v Sloveniji, pozval, naj oddajo poročilo o povzročeni škodi. Ministrstvo bo te podatke obdelalo in jih posredovalo Vladi RS, ki bo odločala o morebitnih povračilih škode in njihovi višini. Ob tem Komac pravi, da se bodo zgledovali tudi po evropski praksi. Potniki, ki so imeli zaradi tega stroške, naj se obrnejo na agenta, ki jim je prodal letalsko karto, ali na agencijo, ki jim je uredila aranžmaje, ali pa neposredno na letalsko družbo, pri kateri so kupili karto. Tudi v bodoče bodo pristojni organi delovali v korist javnega interesa, varnosti potnikov in tretjih oseb, tudi če bo to pomenilo, da javni interes prihaja v konflikt z interesom kapitala. Ravno zaradi takega odnosa in spoštovanja pravil je letalstvo najvarnejši način prevoza potnikov in blaga, je zaključil Komac. [1] Uredba (ES) št. 261/2004 Evropskega parlamenta in Sveta z dne 11. februarja 2004 o določitvi skupnih pravil glede odškodnine in pomoči potnikom v primerih zavrnitve vkrcanja, odpovedi ali velike zamude letov ter o razveljavitvi Uredbe (EGS) št. 295/91, Ur. l. 46, 17. februar 2004, str. 1–8. [2] Uredba (ES) št. 889/2002 Evropskega parlamenta in Sveta z dne 13. maja 2002 o spremembi Uredbe Sveta (ES) št. 2027/97 o odgovornosti letalskih prevoznikov v primeru nesreč, Ur. l. 140, 30. maj 2002, str. 2–5.

Volcanic Ash Paralyses Europe Text: Borut Podgoršek

he eruption of the Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajökull halted European air traffic for a week, affecting 1.2 million passengers a day. We discussed the event with Mirko Komac, director of the Civil Aviation Directorate at the Ministry of

Transport. There are, of course, different views of the situation. Several groups are involved here, with different objectives. On the one hand are the ministries and the agencies responsible for aviation safety, then there are the commercial entities, whose first priority is their own profit, and then there are the passengers, whose primary concern is getting from A to B with as little hassle as possible. In the case of this volcanic eruption, it was the latter two groups – the airlines and passengers – who drew the short straw. And who was the cause of this inconvenience? On the basis of Article 11(2) of the Aviation Act, the Ministry of Transport is the body that holds the authority to issue a decision limiting or prohibiting flying in Slovenia. Naturally there need to be proper grounds for such a decision. In view of the fact that the cloud of volcanic ash reached Slovenia a day later than the northern part of Europe, the situation was already being closely monitored here. Ministry staff were in constant contact with the Aviation Meteorology Service (SLM) at the Environmental Agency of the Republic of Slovenia and with Slovenia Air Traffic Control (KZPS), which in turn were in contact with the responsible European institutions. Data on the quantity of volcanic ash was provided by the London Volcanic Ash Advisory Centre, which in accordance with international conventions is responsible for monitoring volcanic eruptions in northern Europe. On the basis of these data it was decided, in conjunction with the SLM and KZPS, to close Slovenia’s airspace at 11.00 p.m. on 16 April. This decision was justified. Safety is of first importance in air transport, and the interests of the individual entities involved can be no different. According to Komac, the same decision would be taken today if the same data were available. In the light of experience gained, however, even now decisions are being taken on the basis of new findings based on scientific research. A number of scientific institutions in Europe and the USA have carried out test flights that have revealed the presence of ash particles in the air and shown their influence on aircraft and their systems. One such institution is the German Aerospace Centre (DLR), which has carried out quite a number of flights over Germany using a specially equiped Falcon 20E aircraft. Particles with a diameter of more than 3 micrometres were detected, but their density changed rapidly. No damage to the aircraft or its engines was observed. Swiss airborne measurements company MetAir has also carried out test flights and reported reduced visibility in the ash cloud and rapid changes in the quantity of particles in the air. Some years ago, US space agency NASA has its own experience of flying through volcanic dust. In February 2008 a NASA DC-8 happens to fly through a cloud of volcanic ash without the crew even noticing. Post-flight analysis

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{ Adria Airways }

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of the state of the engines revealed that the ash had clogged the holes on the turbine blades (through which colder air flows to cool the blades) and stuck to the blades’ surface. The costs of repairing the engines came to $3.2 million, even though the aircraft was flying 360 kilometres away from the centre of the ash cloud. Since 19 April NASA has been using a satellite to monitor the quantity of sulphur dioxide (SO2) in the atmosphere above Europe. SO2 is a fairly reliable indicator of the concentration of volcanic ash in the air. Data from the EOS Aura satellite are much more reliable than established observation-based methods, both radar and visual. The International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) has in fact dealt with 80 cases of aircraft flying through ash clouds in the last 15 years. Fortunately there have been no accidents. Anxious to keep the loss of revenue of the aviation industry to a minimum in these already difficult times, European transport ministers held a video conference during the flight ban. On the basis of scientific research they considered three ways of resolving this unsustainable situation. Three options were presented. The first was a total closure of airspace. The second involved a partial closure of airspace within a 110-kilometre radius of the ash cloud, along with compulsory inspections of aircraft engines and other systems that could be damaged by the ash. In this case the final decision on whether to fly would be left to the pilot. The third option was a complete liberalisation of flying, with meteorological and navigation services providing all necessary information and the airlines themselves deciding whether or not to fly, thus assuming all responsibility for safety and potential consequences. The ministers chose the second option. As regards the reimbursement of aviation organisations (airlines, airports and other aviation-related entities) and passengers, Komac explains that the rules on aid to legal entities are established in the Treaty on the Functioning of the European Union (Point 2(b) of Article 107 allows aid to make good the damage caused by natural disasters or exceptional occurrences), while the rights of passengers in the event of flight cancellations and delays are covered by Regulation (EC) No 261/2004[1] and Regulation (EC) No 889/2002 of the European Parliament and of the Council.[2]. The Civil Aviation Directorate has invited all legal entities operating in Slovenia affected by the situation to submit a report on the damage they have suffered. The ministry will process this information and forward it to the government, which will decide on the level of any compensation. European practice will also be followed in this process. Passengers who have incurred costs as a result of this situation should apply to the travel agent or tour operator who sold them the air ticket or package tour, or directly to the airline from which they purchased their ticket. The competent bodies will continue to work in the public interest, for the safety of passengers and third parties, even if this means that public interest comes into conflict with commercial interests. It is precisely because of this attitude and scrupulous respect for the rules, concluded Komac, that aviation is the safest means of transport for passengers and cargo.

[1] Regulation (EC) No 261/2004 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 11 February 2004 establishing common rules on compensation and assistance to passengers in the event of denied boarding and of cancellation or long delay of flights, and repealing Regulation (EEC) No 295/91, OJ L 46, 17 February 2004, 1–8. [2] Regulation (EC) No 889/2002 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 13 May 2002 amending Council Regulation (EC) No 2027/97 on air carrier liability in the event of accidents, OJ L 140, 30 May 2002, 2–5

Uredba 261/2004 v uvodnih določbah določa, da morajo imeti potniki, katerih leti so bili odpovedani, možnost dobiti povrnjene stroške za vozovnice ali ustrezno spremembo poti pod zadovoljivimi pogoji in ustrezno oskrbo med čakanjem na poznejši let; obveznosti dejanskih letalskih prevoznikov pa je treba omejiti ali izključiti v primerih, kadar se zgodi dogodek zaradi izrednih razmer, ki se jim ne bi bilo mogoče izogniti, tudi če bi bili sprejeti vsi ustrezni ukrepi. Takšne razmere lahko nastanejo zlasti v primerih politične nestabilnosti, vremenskih pogojev, ki so nezdružljivi z izvedbo zadevnega leta, tveganja, povezanega z varovanjem, nepredvidenih pomanjkljivosti, ki lahko prizadenejo varnost leta, kakor tudi ob stavkah, ki prizadenejo delovanje dejanskega letalskega prevoznika. Šteje se, da izredne razmere obstajajo tudi, kadar odločitev sistema upravljanja zračnega prometa za določen zrakoplov določenega dne vpliva na nastanek velike zamude, zamude prek noči ali na odpoved enega ali več letov tega zrakoplova, tudi če je zadevni letalski prevoznik sprejel vse ustrezne ukrepe, da bi se izognil zamudi ali odpovedi leta. V času zapore zračnega prostora nad Evropo zaradi vulkanskega pepela so se letalski prevozniki srečali kar z dvema primeroma višje sile – z vremenskimi pogoji in z odločitvijo pristojnih o zaprtju zračnega prostora. Na oboje letalski prevoznik nima nikakršnega vpliva in zato je njegova obveznost omejena ali izključena. Adria Airways je v času zapore zračnega prostora delovala v skladu z Uredbo 261/2004. Potnikom je posredovala tako vse informacije o stanju v zračnem prometu kot tudi informacije o alternativnih oblikah prevoza in možnih hotelskih namestitvah, do katerih imajo potniki v primeru višje sile pravico. Potnikom smo omogočili vračilo kupnine za neizkoriščeni del letalske vozovnice ali brezplačno menjavo poleta na isti poti potovanja (t.i. rebooking). Vozovnice za potovanje na poletih Adrie Airways je možno še vedno brezplačno zamenjati za druge datume potovanja na isti relaciji do vključno 31. decembra 2010, kar je dlje, kot nas zavezuje uredba, in dlje kot pri večini ostalih letalskih prevoznikov, a smatramo, da je našim potnikom to v pomoč. Adria Airways tako v celoti spoštuje tudi mnenje evropskega komisarja za promet, da so potniki upravičeni do informacij v zvezi z letom, do oskrbe, kot je to primerno, in izbire med povrnitvijo kupnine ali spremembo poti do namembnega kraja. Evropske letalske družbe pričakujemo, da bo v prihodnje Uredba 261/2004 jasneje določila pravice potnikov in obvezosti letalskih družb v takih in podobnih primerih. The preamble of Regulation (EC) No 261/2004 establishes that passengers whose flights are cancelled should be able to obtain reimbursement of the tickets or continue their journey under satisfactory conditions, and should be adequately cared for while awaiting a later flight. Obligations on operating air carriers should be limited or excluded in cases where an event has been caused by extraordinary circumstances which could not have been avoided even if all reasonable measures had been taken. Such circumstances may, in particular, occur in cases of political instability, meteorological conditions incompatible with the operation of the flight concerned, security risks, unexpected flight safety shortcomings and strikes that affect the operation of an operating air carrier. Extraordinary circumstances should be deemed to exist where the impact of an air traffic management decision in relation to a particular aircraft on a particular day gives rise to a long delay, an overnight delay, or the cancellation of one or more flights by that aircraft, even though all reasonable measures had been taken by the air carrier concerned to avoid the delays or cancellations. During the closure of European airspace as result of the volcanic ash cloud, air carriers faced two cases of extraordinary circumstances: meteorological conditions and the decision of aviation authorities to close the airspace. Air carriers have no influence over either of these circumstances and therefore their obligations are limited or excluded. For the duration of the flight ban, Adria Airways acted in accordance with Regulation (EC) No 261/2004. Passengers were provided with regular updates on the air traffic situation, as well as information on alternative forms of transport and hotel accommodation, to which passengers are entitled when extraordinarily circumstances apply. Passengers were refunded the unused portions of their tickets or offered a free replacement flight on the same route (‘rebooking’). Tickets for Adria Airways flights may be exchanged free of charge for flights on another date of travel on the same route up to and including 31 December 2010, in other words beyond the obligatory period and beyond the period offered by most other airlines, but we believe that this will help our passengers. Adria Airways is thus also respecting in full the opinion of the European Commissioner for Transport with regard to the right of passengers to receive information in connection with the flight, the right to care as appropriate and the rights to choose between reimbursement and re-routing to the final destination. European air carriers expect future amendments to Regulation (EC) 261/2004 to include a clearer definition of the rights of passengers and the obligations of airlines in these and similar cases.

{ Adria Airways & partnerji v projektih } Adria Airways & project partners

Adria Airways in UNICEF združena za otroke

UNICEF v sodelovanju s partnerji gradi boljši svet za otroke po svetu. Adria Airways bo tako v času od 1. 5. do 31. 8. 2010 od vsake prodane e-vozovnice namenila 0,50 € za UNICEF-ove programe pomoči otrokom v državah v razvoju. UNICEF je vodilna svetovna organizacija za pomoč otrokom in v sodelovanju s partnerji si prizadeva izboljšati življenje otrok po svetu. Preko uradov na terenu deluje v 156 državah, kjer izvaja razvojne programe za pomoč otrokom. Skrbi za preživetje in razvoj otrok v zgodnjem otroštvu ter jim zagotavlja prehrano, čisto pitno vodo, ustrezno zdravstveno oskrbo in cepljenje proti nalezljivim boleznim. Zagotavlja jim možnosti, da se vključijo v osnovno izobraževanje, spodbuja enakost med spoloma in se bori proti aidsu. Otroke ščiti pred zlorabami, nasiljem in diskriminacijo, pomaga pa jim tudi v kriznih razmerah. Pridružite se nam z nakupom e-vozovnice. Poletite z Adrio in pomagajte otrokom.

Adria Airways and UNICEF: together for children

In collaboration with its partners, UNICEF works to build a better world for children around the world. Between 1 May and 31 August 2010 Adria Airways will donate € 0.50 of every e-ticket sold to UNICEF's aid programmes for children in developing countries. UNICEF is the world's leading organisation working for children and their rights. In collaboration with its partners it works to improve the life of children around the world. It operates via field offices in 156 countries, where it implements numerous development programmes for children. It provides children with access to basic education, encourages gender equality and is actively involved in the fight against AIDS. UNICEF protects children from abuse, violence and discrimination and helps them in emergencies (natural disasters, wars, ...) Join us by buying an e-ticket. Fly Adria and help children.

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Ljubljana, Cankarjev dom, Mala galerija, od 28. junija do 9. julija

Dobra bera

Maribor, 30 prizorišč, od 25. junija do 25. julija

Festival Lent ( 12 )

Vsako leto Festival Lent kot po čarovniji spremeni Maribor v prav poseben svet. Lent je največji slovenski festival in eden največjih poletnih festivalov v Evropi. 16 dni in 16 noči, ki jih ne boste pozabili vse leto! V tem času bodo imeli obiskovalci priložnost videti, slišati in čutiti zanimiv izbor prireditev, med drugim koncerte jazza, rocka, popa, klasične in etno glasbe; večere s kantavtorji in šansoni; gledališke in plesne predstave; dramska in lutkovna gledališča; ustvarjalne delavnice za otroke; športne dogodke in še mnogo več. V okviru festivala prav tako potekajo folklorni festival Folkart, jazz festival Jazzlent in festival uličnih gledališč Ana Desetnica. Prireditve potekajo na več kot 30 prizoriščih po vsem mestu. Poslušalci se bodo lahko odločali med koncerti klasične glasbe v 400 let stari sinagogi in med sočnimi jazz ritmi. Lahko bodo uživali v katerem od številnih koncertov na Glavnem odru na Dravi ali pa se zgolj sprehodili po ulicah in se pustili začarati delom uličnih umetnikov. Festival Lent s svojo barvitostjo širi pozitivno energijo in omogoča, da obiskovalci vidijo svet z drugimi očmi. S svojim posebnim utripom festival vedno znova pokaže, zakaj sta umetnost in kultura tako posebni.

»Ustvarjaš si konkurenco,« je zapisal avtor razstave, Žiga Koritnik. Vendar je Koritnik prepričan, da mu le ta pomaga, da vidi svoje fotografije še vedno jasno in razločno, da njegova kreativnost ne zvodeni, da dela, kar dela s srcem, strastjo in vztrajnostjo. »Skupna nota nas vseh je, da imamo radi tako fotografijo kot tudi dobro glasbo in njeno okolico,« meni Koritnik. »Radi imamo čustva, ki jih tako z veseljem prenašamo na fotografski medij. Drug drugemu predstavljamo tudi dobro družbo, na katero se lahko zanesemo in v kateri nam ni nikoli dolgčas. Na koncertih imamo radi vzpostavljene, vedno drugačne atmosfere.« Avtorji fotografij so Petra Cvelbar, Maruša Bertoncelj, Marko Banjac, Iztok Vidmar in Boštjan Lah. Večina je mladih avtorjev, ki so se spoznali na Koritnikovih fotografskih delavnicah glasbene fotografije. Razstave z jazzovsko tematiko so v Mali galeriji že od leta 1993, ko je Žiga Koritnik razstavljal prvič. Do danes so se v galeriji zvrstili: Matthias Creutziger, Raffaella Cavalieri, Jak Kilby, Mauro D'Agati, Enid Farber, na skupinski razstavi slovenskih jazzovskih in glasbenih fotografov pa: Nada Žgank, Iztok Zupan, Matej Štalcer, Jani Peternelj, Goran Antlej, Jurij Vižintin, Marjan Laznik in Matjaž Škrinjar. Ljubljana, Cankarjev dom, Small Gallery, 28 June to 9 July

A Good Collection

“You make your own competition,” noted the creator of the exhibition, Žiga Koritnik. Yet Koritnik is convinced that this in fact helps him to see his photographs still clearly and distinctly, to ensure his creativity is not adulterated and that he does what he does from the heart, with passion and persistence. “The common thread for all of us is that we love both photography and good music and its surroundings,” says Koritnik. “We like feelings that we can happily transfer to a photographic medium. We also provide good company for each other, and we can depend on this company and never get bored in it. At concerts we like atmospheres that are set up and always different.” The photographers exhibited are Petra Cvelbar, Maruša Bertoncelj, Marko Banjac, Iztok Vidmar and Boštjan Lah. The majority are young photographers who got to know each other at Koritnik’s photographic workshops on music photography. There have been jazz-themed exhibitions in the Small Gallery (Mala galerija) since 1993, when Žiga Koritnik exhibited for the first time. To date the gallery has show-

Maribor, 30 venues, 25 June to 25 July

cased Matthias Creutziger, Raffaella Cavalieri, Jak Kilby, Mauro D'Agati and Enid Far-

Festival Lent

ber, and in a group exhibition of Slovenian jazz and music photos Nada Žgank, Iztok

Every year, as if by magic, Festival Lent transforms Maribor into a very special world.

Zupan, Matej Štalcer, Jani Peternelj, Goran Antlej, Jurij Vižintin, Marjan Laznik and

Lent is the biggest Slovenian festival and one of the biggest summer festivals in Eu-

Matjaža Škrinjarja.

rope. A full 16 days and 16 nights that you won’t forget all year!

www.cd-cc.si

At this time visitors get the chance to see, hear and feel a fascinating selection of events, including concerts of jazz, rock, pop, classical and world music; evenings with singer-songwriters and chansons; theatre and dance performances; drama and puppet theatres; creative workshops for children; sports events and much more. As an adjunct to the festival there is also the Folkart folklore festival, the jazz festival Jazzlent and the street theatre festival Ana Desetnica. Events take place at more than 30 venues throughout the city. Audiences will be able to choose from classical music concerts in a 400-year-old synagogue and succulent jazz rhythms. They will also be able to enjoy one of the many concerts on the Main Stage by the Drava River, or simply stroll through the streets and be charmed by the work of street artists. The colourfulness of Festival Lent spreads positive energy and helps visitors see the world with different eyes. With its special vibe, the festival keeps showing why art and culture are so special. http://lent.slovenija.net

Abd Al Malik, foto: Petra Cvelbar

Foto: B. Okorn

{ Art & Culture }

( 13 ) Ljubljana, od 1. do 4. julija

Ana Desetnica, mednarodni festival uličnega gledališča

Festival Ana Desetnica bo tokrat na ljubljanskih ulicah potekal že 13. leto zapored. A čakanje na največji in najbolj prepoznaven festival uličnega gledališča v Sloveniji je bilo tokrat nekoliko lažje. Gledališče Ane Monro je namreč začelo lani izpolnjevati idejo o celoletnih uličnih aktivnostih. Če je poletje rezervirano za Desetnico, je jeseni prišla prvič na ulice Ana Plamenita (ognjeni ambienti na grajskem griču), pozimi se je po mestu sprehajala Ana Mraz (ulično gledališče na mostu), pomlad pa je bila v znamenju Prešerne Ane (plesne akcije). Letni krog je bil tako sklenjen in z Desetnico začenjamo znova. Tudi letos bo v ospredju prostorska in socialna umestitev festivala v mestno okolje. Nova prizorišča, nova sodelovanja pa tudi nekaj starih znancev se vrača v prestolnico. Nekaj vrhuncev festivala: zračne akrobacije v izvedbi argentinske skupine Voala, pa motoristično naravnani Švedi Burnt out punks, seveda domače Gledališče Ane Monro in Bimbo teater (bolj poznan kot Štefka & Poldka); iz Angležev se bodo norčevali Francozi Les Goulus, kot na Godota bodo na avtobus čakali nemški Theater Fragile, Španca Deados bosta sredi mesta postavila svoj Kampingplatz, cirkuške veščine pa bo v svojem malem šotoru kazal Finec Jani Nuutinen s svojim Un cirque plus juste. Prvič bo »veliki oder Desetnice« preizkusila tudi nova generacija Šuglarjev – Šole Uličnega GLedališčA, ki jo je leta 2007 ustanovilo Gledališče Ane Monro. Plesalka in koreografinja Vita Osojnik se vrača na ulico s festivalsko koprodukcijo Mize-rablji, videli pa bomo tudi vrsto drugih predstav iz širnega sveta. Predstave Ane Desetnice kot po tradiciji tudi tokrat potekajo na Ani Desetnici na Lentu v Mariboru, od 5. do 10. 7., pa v Šoštanju, Kamniku, Cerknem in drugod. Novost je tokrat še gostovanje Ane Desetnice v Novi Gorici.

Ljubljana, 1 to 4 July

Ana Desetnica, international street theatre festival

The Ana Desetnica festival this year will mark its 13th year in succession in the

streets of Ljubljana. However, waiting for the biggest and best-known festival of street theatre in Slovenia has been a little easier this time. Last year, Gledališče Ane Monro (Ana Monro Theatre) started putting into practice the idea of year-round street activities. While summer is reserved for Desetnica, the autumn streets saw for the first time Ana Plamenita (or ‘Flaming Ana’, complete with a pyrotechnic ambience on the Castle hill), then in winter Ana Mraz (Frost) strolled by with street theatre on the bridge, and spring brought us Prešerna (Blithe) Ana with a dance action. The annual cycle was then completed and Desetnica starts it all over again. This year, too, a spatial and social incorporation of the festival into the urban environment will be paramount. New venues, new cooperation and also some old acquaintances are returning to the capital. Some high points of the festival: aerobatic stunts performed by the Argentine group Voala, the motorbiking Swedes known as the Burnt Out Punks, of course the local groups Gledališče Ane Monro and Bimbo teater (better known as Štefka & Poldka), the French Les Goulus will have a laugh at the English, the German group Theater Fragile will wait for a bus as if waiting for Godot, the Spanish duo Deados will set up their Kampingplatz in the middle of the city, and circus skills will be presented in a tiny tent by the Finn Jani Nuutinen with his Un cirque plus juste. For the first time the “Desetnica Grand Stage” will be tried out by a new generation from the Street Theatre School (ŠUGLA), which was founded in 2007 by Gledališče Ane Monro. The dancer and choreographer Vita Osojnik returns to the streets with a festival co-production of Mize-rablji, and we will also see a range of other shows from across the world. As is traditional, the Ana Desetnica shows will this year again be presented at Ana Desetnica in Lent in Maribor, and from 5 to 10 July in Šoštanj, Kamnik, Cerkno and elsewhere. A new feature this year will be the appearance of Ana Desetnica in Nova Gorica. www.anamonro.org

{ Umetnost & kultura } Ljubljana, Križanke, Klub CD Klub Gromka, od 29. junija do 3. julija

51. Jazz festival Ljubljana

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Po lanskem jubileju Jazz festival Ljubljana z nekoliko manj koncerti, a nič manj veličastno nadaljuje slavje, posvečeno glasbi, mojstrskim izvajalcem, zavzetemu občinstvu ter druženju v poletnih večerih in nočeh. V tem času se bo na glavnem večernem prizorišču v Križankah ter na polnočnih v Klubu CD in Klubu Gromka na Metelkovi zvrstilo sedemnajst koncertov. Nekateri izvajalci prihajajo prvič, drugi se vračajo v mesto, v katerem radi igrajo, med izbranimi glasbeniki pa nekatera imena še posebej zveneče odmevajo. Danes nedvomno najbolj priljubljen jazzovski kitarist, lastnik kar sedemnajstih gremijev, prihaja s svojo najdlje živo zasedbo Pat Metheny Group, s katero deluje že od konca 70. let prejšnjega stoletja. Pianist, skladatelj in aranžer, ki sodi med najbolj cenjene kubanske glasbenike, se v zadnjih projektih osredotoča na pretanjeno povezovanje afrokubanskih obrazcev z dediščino pianističnega jazza; to velja tudi za Chucho Valdés & Afro-Cuban Messengers. Kip Hanrahan & Beautiful Scars – ameriški glasbenik je sicer tolkalec, a ima v svojih projektih vlogo povezovalca žanrsko različnih glasbenikov, ki jih povabi, da odigrajo njegove eklektične skladbe, v katerih sobivajo različni slogi. Mulatu Astatke & The Heliocentrics – vibrafonist, starosta ethio-jazza, omamne mešanice etiopskih tradicionalnih motivov in jazza – ustvarja z angleško zasedbo naelektreno in večplastno čezžanrsko godbo. Z Big Bandom RTV Slovenija bo tokrat kot solist nastopil Joe Lovano, ki je igral z imeni, kot so Paul Motian, Dave Holland in Lee Konitz. Dirigiral bo Michael Abene, ki je z našim Big Bandom že sodeloval ter je med drugim glasbeni vodja in glavni aranžer ter skladatelj cenjenega nemškega WDR Radio Big Banda. Za ameriško pianistko in pevko Patricio Barber so značilne dramatične in poetične pesmi, ki jih zaznamuje njen globoki, čustveni glas. K nam prihaja s projektom Patricia Barber Quartet. Naj naštejemo še druge nastopajoče: Moscow Art Trio; Bob Ostertag & Phil Minton; Christine Sehnaoui & Pascal Battus; Samo Šalamon Trio feat, Michel Godard & Roberto Dani; Sclavis/Davis/Rainey »Eldorado Trio«; Hyperactive Kid; Get The Blessing; Anthony Joseph & The Spasm Band; Helene Labarriere Quartet; Vijay Iyer Trio ter Zoc.

Jimmy Katz, Pat Metheny Group

Chucho Valdés

Ljubljana, Križanke, Klub CD Klub Gromka, 29 June to 3 July

51th Jazz Festival Ljubljana

After last year’s jubilee 50th Jazz Festival Ljubljana, the party continues, with slightly fewer concerts but no less splendour, all devoted to the music, superb musicians, the enraptured audience and socialising in the summer evenings and nights. During this time, a total of 17 concerts will be given at the main evening venue in Križanke and the midnight venues in Klub CD and Klub Gromka at Metelkova. Some performers are coming for the first time, while others are returning to a city where they love playing, and the selected musicians include some especially big names. Today’s unquestionably most popular jazz guitarist, the holder of a full 17 Grammy awards, is coming with his longest-standing band, the Pat Metheny Group, with which he has played since the end of the 1970s. And the pianist, composer and arranger rated as one of the most highly regarded Cuban musicians has in recent projects been focusing on a refined fusion of Afro-Cuban forms with the heritage of piano jazz; this of course applies

Patricia Barber

to Chucho Valdés and The Afro-Cuban Messengers. The American musician Kip Hanrahan – whose most recent album is Beautiful Scars – is by trade a percussionist, but in his projects he plays the role of anchorman for musicians of differing genres, whom he invites in to play his eclectic compositions that fuse a variety of styles. Mulatu Astatke & The Heliocentrics – vibraphonist and father figure of Ethio-jazz, an intoxicating fusion of Ethiopian traditional forms and jazz, creates with his British group an electrified and multi-layered cross-genre music. The RTV Slovenija Big Band will this year feature soloist Joe Lovano, who has played with such greats as Paul Motian, Dave Holland and Lee Konitz. The band will be conducted by Michael Abene, who has already worked with the Big Band, and also works as musical director and principal arranger and composer for the acclaimed WDR Radio Big Band of Germany. The hallmarks of American pianist and singer Patricia Barber are dramatic and poetic songs that she makes her own with her deep, emotional voice. She is coming to Ljubljana with her Patricia Barber Quartet project. We should also mention the other performers: Moscow Art Trio; Bob Ostertag & Phil Minton; Christine Sehnaoui & Pascal Battus; Samo Šalamon Trio Feat; Michel Godard & Roberto Dani; Sclavis/Davis/Rainey, the “Eldorado Trio”; Hyperactive Kid; Get The Blessing; Anthony Joseph & The Spasm Band; Helene Labarriere Quartet; Vijay Iyer Trio and Zoc. www.ljubljanajazz.si

Vijay Iyer Trio

{ Art & Culture } Ljubljana, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, Ljubljanski grad in druga prizorišča, od 5. julija do 26. avgusta

Ljubljana, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, Ljubljana Castle and other venues, 5 July to 26 August

58. Summer festival

The summer festival will open its doors on 5 July with a concert of Mahler in Ljublja-

Poletni festival bo odprl svoja vrata 5. julija s koncertom Mahler v Ljubljani v izvedbi orkestra Slovenske filharmonije, zborov, orkestra Slovenske vojske in solistk – Sabine Cvilak in Martine Gojčeta Silić. Koncert je posvečen 150. obletnici rojstva Gustava Mahlerja, ki je deloval v Ljubljani v sezoni 1881/1882. Julijski festivalski večeri vabijo v Ljubljano svetovno znane umetnike: Münchenske filharmonike – izvedli bodo Haydnovo Stvarjenje –, Orkester in zbor Festivala Schleswig Holstein ter soliste – izvedli bodo Händlovo Mesijo –, orkester Sinfonia Varsovia in violinista Vadima Repina, Akademski državni balet Borisa Eifmana iz Sankt Peterburga, ki se bo predstavil z baletnima predstavama Ana Karenina in Ruski Hamlet, Béjart Balett iz Lozane pa s predstavo Balet za življenje (kostumografija predstave je delo Giannija Versaceja). Ljubitelji operne umetnosti se bodo razveselili oper P. I. Čajkovskega Pikova dama v izvedbi Opere in baleta SNG Maribor ter Carmen G. Bizeta v izvedbi Hrvaškega narodnega gledališča iz Zagreba. Ljubljanska operno baletna hiša pripravlja na Ljubljanskem gradu v koprodukciji s Festivalom Ljubljana premiero Menottijeve madrigalne pripovedi Samorog, gorgona in mantikora ali Tri nedelje nekega poeta. Na sporedu bo tudi muzikal Maratonci tečejo zadnji krog Gledališča na Terazijah iz Beograda ter najnovejša predstava Edwarda Cluga in Milka Lazarja Watching Others – Gledati druge. Na Festivalu bo tudi veliko komornih koncertov, pester pa bo tudi spremljajoči program: Film pod zvezdami v sodelovanju s Kinodvorom, likovna kolonija, razstave …

Béjart Balett

58th Summer festival

na, performed by the orchestra of the Slovenian Philharmonic, choirs, the orchestra of the Slovenian Armed Forces and soloists Sabina Cvilak and Martina Gojčeta Silić. The concert is dedicated to the 150th anniversary of the birth of Gustav Mahler, who worked in Ljubljana in the 1881/1882 season. The July festival evenings bring to Ljubljana world-famous performers: The Munich Philharmonic – performing Haydn’s Creation, the Orchestra and Choir of Festival Schleswig Holstein and soloists will perform Händel’s Messiah, the orchestra Sinfonia Varsovia and violinist Vadima Repina, the Boris Eifman Academy National Ballet of St. Petersburg, which will perform the ballets Ana Karenina and Russian Hamlet, and Béjart Ballet of Lausanne will be performing Ballet for Life (costumes for the performance are the work of Gianni Versace). Opera lovers will be delighted with Tchaikovsky’s Queen of Spades, performed by the Opera and Ballet of SNG Maribor, and Bizet’s Carmen, in a production by the Croatian National Theatre of Zagreb. At Ljubljana Castle, Ljubljana Opera and Ballet will be premiering a co-production with Festival Ljubljana of Menotti’s madrigal tale The Unicorn, the Gorgon and the Manticore or Three Weeks of a Poet. The programme will also feature Marathon Runners on the Final Lap by the Theatre on Terazije of Belgrade, and the latest production of Edward Clug and Milko Lazar, Watching Others. The festival will also include numerous chamber concerts, as well as a rich accompanying programme: Film under the Stars, in cooperation with Kinodvor, an art colony, exhibitions and more. www.ljubljanafestival.si

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Celje, Špitalska kapela, Galerija sodobne umetnosti, Zavod Celea, od 19. junija do 24. julija

Jože Šubic: Devet postaj tvojega okusa

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Akademski slikar Jože Šubic (Maribor, 1958) je na slovensko likovno prizorišče vstopil v obdobju razcveta nove podobe. Od leta 1981 kontinuirano razstavlja na številnih skupinskih in samostojnih razstavah doma in v tujini, za svoje delo pa je prejel tudi več nagrad. Ukvarja se s slikarstvom, risbo, grafiko, od leta 2000 se njegovo likovno snovanje s slikovne površine, ki je po zgodnejši figuraliki vse bolj zaznamovana s čutnimi barvnimi nanosi in neslikarskimi materiali, vedno pogosteje razteza tudi v prostor in predmetno stvarnost. Mojca Puncer pravi, da v prostorske postavitve vključuje nove snovi, predmete iz vsakdanjosti, organske materiale in jih pretvarja v pomensko nabite objekte, ki s svojo asociativno močjo večrazsežno nagovarjajo gledalca. Okus kot temeljna kategorija estetske presoje je v središču Šubičevega novega projekta – »Devet postaj tvojega okusa«. Naselil ga je v Špitalsko kapelo v Celju, v sakralni prostor, kjer mesto transcendence zasedejo sledovi estetskega ugodja, ki ga prečita želja in užitek v okušanju. V okrilju Cerkve je privilegiran prostor diskretnosti spovednica,

medtem ko umetnika bolj kot stopnja provokacije in silovitost vzburkanja čutov zanima, kako s postajami/objekti v »posvečenem« prostoru vzbuditi željo obiskovalca, ki bi ga zapeljala v refleksijo o lastnem zarisovanju območij intimnosti. V Šubičevi postavitvi so subtilno izdelani objekti svojevrstni mediatorji. Sestavljeni so iz različnih materialov, osnovna konstrukcija je les, mestoma obdelan z bakrom, krznom, usnjem, posode so iz patinirane žgane gline, dodani so tudi najdeni predmeti. Taset, a fundamental parameter of aesthetic judge-

Celje, Špitalska Chapel, Gallery of Contemporary Art, Celeia Institute, 19 June to 24 July

Jože Šubic: Nine stations of your taste

ment, is at the core of Šubič’s new project, “Nine stations of your taste”. He has installed the project in the Špitalska Chapel in Celje, a consecrated space

The Academy-trained painter Jože Šubic (Maribor,

where the place of transcendence is occupied by

1958) entered the Slovenian fine art scene in the

traces of aesthetic comfort, deciphered by desire and

period when the new image was flourishing. Since

enjoyment of tasting. Within the Church the privileged

1981 he has continuously exhibited at numerous

space of discretion is the confession box, while the

group and solo exhibitions at home and abroad, and

artist is interested not so much in the level of provoca-

has received several prizes for his work. His media are

tion and the power of arousing the sense, and more

painting, drawing and graphics, and since 2000 his

in how stations/objects in a “consecrated” space can

creations have increasingly projected into the space

arouse the desire of the visitor, who would be led to a

and physical reality from the artistic surface, which

reflection on his own tracing of areas of intimacy.

after his early figural work was marked increasingly by

In Šubič’s installation the subtly made objects are

sensual colour applications and non-painting materi-

singular mediators. They are made of various materi-

als. Mojca Puncer says that in his spatial installations

als, with the basic construction being wood, in places

he incorporates new materials, everyday objects,

embellished with copper, fur and leather, while the

organic materials and converts them into meaning-

vessels are made of fired clay with patina, and found

charged objects whose associative power addresses

objects are also added.

the viewer across several dimensions.

Galerija TR3, Trg republike 3, Ljubljana, do 23. julija

Tony Cragg

V Veliki Britaniji rojeni kipar živi in dela v Düsseldorfu, kjer je leta 2009 prevzel mesto direktorja Düsseldorf Kunstakademie. Znan je predvsem po kreativni uporabi različnih materialov, kot so bron, les, polikarbonati in kamen, njegove skulpture pa so inovativne, pogosto abstraktne in figurativne hkrati. Na ogled je izbor pomembnejših del iz različnih materialov. Razstava so tudi kipi, ki jih je umetnik ustvaril v zadnjem desetletju, začenši z 'Izločki' (Secretions, 2001), abstraktno skulpturo, narejeno izključno iz kock. Njena forma izvira iz časa, ko se je Cragg posvečal sestavljenim oblikam, ki so bile enkrat povezane, drugič ne. 'Ujet med sanjami' (Caught Dreaming, 2007) je velika bronasta skulptura, ki spominja na tavajočo žival na treh nogah. Masivno in hkrati lirično delo pooseblja skrito figurativno naravo Craggovih najnovejših del.

TR3 Gallery, Trg republike 3, Ljubljana, Until 23 July

Tony Cragg

This British-born sculptor lives and works in Düsseldorf, where he assumed the position of director of the Düsseldorf Kunstakademie in 2009. He is known primarily for his creative use of different materials, such as bronze, wood, polycarbonates and stone, and his sculptures are innovative, while often abstract and figurative at the same time. The exhibition features a selection of major works in various materials. It also includes sculptures made by the artist in the past decade, beginning with Secretions (2001), an abstract sculpture made entirely of cubes. Its form derives from a period when Cragg was focused on creating forms that were at one time linked and another, not. Caught Dreaming (2007) is a big bronze sculpture reminiscent of a three-legged animal wandering around. The massive and at the same time lyrical work embodies the latent figurative nature of Cragg’s most recent works.

{ Art & Culture } Piran

Muzej podvodnih dejavnosti

V tem Piranskem muzeju si lahko ogledate prikaze potapljanja od njegovih začetkov pa do danes. Tudi s pomočjo fotografij se seznanite o potapljanju v skafandrih, o potapljaških nesrečah, o športnem potapljanju, potapljanju v vojnih mornaricah, o reševanju potopljenih ladij, o delovanju podmornic in še o drugih stvareh. Razstavljeni so: starodavna potapljaška oprema, ročne tlačilke, skafandri in športna potapljaška oprema, ki so jo uporabljali naši predniki. Ogledate si lahko tudi številne modele podmornic, opremo za reševanje iz potopjenih podmornic, uniforme in osebne predmete podmorničarjev. Muzejska zbirka je edina tovrstna zbirka na vzhodni strani Jadrana in predstavlja hkrati tudi nekakšen spomenik pionirjem slovenskega potapljanja in podmornic. Piran

Museum of Underwater Activity

At this Piran museum you can tour presentations of diving, from its beginning to the present day. Photographs help you familiarise with going underwater in a diving suit, diving accidents, sport diving, navy diving, salvaging sunken ships, the work of submarines and more. Exhibits include old diving equipment, hand pumps, diving suits and sport diving equipment used by our forefathers. You can also see numerous models of submarines, equipment for rescuing from sunken submarines, uniforms and personal items of submariners. The museum collection is the only such collection on the eastern side of the Adriatic Sea, and it also represents a kind of memorial to the pioneers of Slovenian diving and to submarines. http://www.muzejpodvodnihdejavnosti.si/

Sobota, 19. 6. 2010, od 10h do 24h

Poletna muzejska noč

Že tradicionalna akcija slovenskih muzejev, galerij in drugih razstavišč predstavlja muzejske, galerijske in druga razstavna prizorišča kot prostore za sproščeno in ustvarjalno preživljanje prostega časa. Letos bo že osma po vrsti, vanjo je poleg Ljubljane vključenih doslej rekordnih 28 slovenskih krajev (Beltinci, Bled, Bohinj, Celje, Hoče, Jesenice, Kamnik, Kočevje, Koper, Kranj, Laško, Lopar, Maribor, Metlika, Mežica, Murska Sobota, Novo mesto, Piran, Pivka, Polhov Gradec, Ptuj, Sečovlje, Slovenj Gradec, Stična, Škofja Loka, Šoštanj, Trbovlje in Velenje) z 62 institucijami, ki so pripravile okrog 200 dogodkov in aktivnosti (vodstva, odprtja razstav, delavnice za otroke in družine, oglede razstav, koncerte, instalacije, predavanja ...). Namenjeni so obiskovalcem vseh starosti, družinam in posameznikom, tistim, ki pogosto obiskujejo muzeje, predvsem pa tistim, ki vanje skoraj ne zahajajo. Saturday 19 June 2010, 10 am to midnight

Summer Museum Night

The now traditional event involving Slovenian museums, galleries and other exhibition spaces presents museum, gallery and other exhibition spaces as venues for relaxed and creative leisure time. This year will be the eighth in succession, and along with Ljubljana it involves what is to date a record 28 Slovenian locations (Beltinci, Bled, Bohinj, Celje, Hoče, Jesenice, Kamnik, Kočevje, Koper, Kranj, Laško, Lopar, Maribor, Metlika, Mežica, Murska Sobota, Novo mesto, Piran, Pivka, Polhov Gradec, Ptuj, Sečovlje, Slovenj Gradec, Stična, Škofja Loka, Šoštanj, Trbovlje and Velenje) and 62 institutions, which have put together around 200 events and activities (management and opening of exhibitions, workshops for children and families, exhibitions, concerts, installations, lectures and more). These are aimed at visitors of all ages, families and individuals, those who frequent museums and most importantly those who hardly ever go to museums. www.muzejska-noc.si

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Dunaj, MAK Cvetje za Kim Il Sunga – Umetnost in arhitektura iz Demokratične ljudske republike Koreje Do 5. septembra Prek slik velikega formata in sodobnih utrinkov s področja filma, plakata in arhitekture ponuja razstava pregled umetniške produkcije Demokratične ljudske republike Koreje. V sodelovanju z Narodno galerijo v Pjongjangu je MAK pripravil prvo celovito razstavo izvirnih del galerije v tujem muzeju. Obiskovalci muzeja MAK bodo tako lahko več mesecev na svetovni premieri zbirali vtise o kulturi Demokratične ljudske republike Koreje, ki je bila izolirana vse od svojega nastanka leta 1948.

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Madrid, Reina Sofia Potosíjevo načelo Do 6. septembra Projekt Principio Potosí se osredotoča na analizo pojma sodobnosti in njegove univerzalne širitve, ki poteka že od kolonizacije Latinske Amerike. Na razstavi bo mogoče videti primerke andskih kolonialnih slik in del mednarodnih umetnikov, ki gledalce vabijo k premisleku o odnosu med kolonialno umetnostjo iz obdobja med 16. in 18. stoletjem ter sodobnim svetom. Razstava se začne s primerki slik podkralja iz Potosíjeve šole in te osamljene fragmente zgodovine povezuje z današnjim stanjem umetniške produkcije.

Istanbul, Istanbul Modern Murat Germen: Pot Do 19. septembra Murat Germen piše: »O fotografiji razmišljam kot o priložnosti, da postavimo v ospredje običajne stvari, ki jih ljudje zavestno ali podzavestno spregledajo ali ne vidijo, in jim tako omogočimo, da premagajo svoje predsodke. Sam poskušam prikazati nenavadnost, ki morda latentno biva v normalnem.« Če si ogledamo njegova prejšnja dela, na primer »In-

dustrija kot ikona: industrijska estetika« in »Konstrukt«, lahko vidimo, da se poleg tistega, kar je povedal v omenjeni izjavi, umetnik osredotoča bolj na proces izdelave kot na končni izdelek. Njegova serija »Pot« sledi podobnemu pristopu: koncept Poti lahko vodi v mnoge različne asociacije. Pred nami se lahko odpre kot prehodna linearnost, ki nas popelje od kraja do kraja po kopnem, zraku ali morju, lahko pa se na primer pojavi tudi kot sredstvo za dosego cilja.

razglednic. Pomembna elementa njegovega dela ostajata tudi slikanje in risanje.

Stockholm, Millesgården Med nebom in morjem Do 3. oktobra Krajinski arhitekt Ulf Nordfjell, umetnostna zgodovinarka Ia Schildt in oblikovalka Synnöve Mork iščejo in izvabljajo lepoto Millesgårdena. S svojimi možgani in spretnostjo svojih rok nežno in odločno dodajajo parku in vrtu nove oblike, barve ter vonje. Ulf Nordfjell je dvakratni dobitnik zlate medalje in prve nagrade ter prejemnik nagrade na sejmu cvetja Chelsea Flower Show leta 2009.

Moskva, Moskovski muzej sodobne umetnosti Alexandra Exter – Retrospektiva Do 22. avgusta Alexandra Exter je bila začetnica ključnega trenda v ruski umetnosti, in sicer kubofuturizma, značilne »ruske« različice futurizma, ki se izraža prek številnih abstraktnih del, tihožitij in mestnih krajin. Exterjeva je bila pionirka novih zamisli v ruskem slikarstvu in je ruske ljubitelje umetnosti seznanila z najnovejšimi dosežki pariške avantgarde. Ker je veliko časa preživljala v Parizu, so bili med njenimi prijatelji Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger, Robert in Sonia Delaunay, Guillaume Apollinaire ter mnoge druge izjemne osebnosti tistega časa. Poskrbela je za promocijo njihovih stvaritev v Rusiji in skozi svoje delo kazala pot, kako bi lahko ruski umetniki prilagodili umetniške novosti svojemu ustvarjanju.

London, Tate Modern Francis Alÿs Do 5. septembra Moški po ulicah Mexico Cityja poriva veliko kocko ledu, dokler se ta ne stopi v nič. Petsto prostovoljcev hodi po velikanski peščeni sipini v Limi v Peruju, koplje z lopatami in sipino premika za nekaj centimetrov. To so dela slavnega umetnika Francisa Alÿsa (rojenega v Belgiji leta 1959) in predmet velike razstave v Tate Modern. Alÿsovo delo se začne s preprostim dejanjem, ki ga bodisi opravi sam bodisi ga zanj naredijo drugi, o tem pa pozneje poročajo najrazličnejši mediji. Alÿs raziskuje teme, kot so posodabljanje programov v Latinski Ameriki in mejne cone na kriznih območjih, ter se pogosto sprašuje o pomenu poetičnih dejanj v spolitiziranih situacijah. Uporablja tako videoprojekcije kot film, a svoje zamisli širi tudi prek

Zürich, Kunsthaus Zürich Adrian Paci Do 22. avgusta Adrian Paci je eden redkih mednarodno priznanih albanskih umetnikov. V svojem delu, ki vključuje video, slike, instalacije in fotografije, se ukvarja s temami, kot so migracije, globalizacija in kulturna identiteta, ter s podobami, ki nemudoma pritegnejo pogled, prikazuje pa tudi učinke izseljenstva, vojne in družbenih nemirov na človeka. Rojen leta 1969 v Shkodru v Albaniji, Paci trenutno živi v Milanu. Zaslovel je s svojimi prispevki na ključnih mednarodnih razstavah. Kunsthaus v Zürichu je pripravil Pacijevo prvo samostojno muzejsko razstavo v Švici. Umetnik je za to priložnost ustvaril nov video, ki bo prvič prikazan v Kunsthausu, spremljala pa ga bodo dela iz zadnjih let.

Dublin, IMMA | Irski muzej sodobne umetnosti Spremenjene podobe Od 18. junija do 15. avgusta Dostopne, interaktivne in etično vključujoče Spremenjene podobe želijo spodbuditi vključenost širšega občinstva in predvsem invalidov v vizualno umetnost. Zamisel, da bi morala biti razstava vizualne umetnosti dostopna vsem, ni nova. Večina muzejev in galerij ima možnost dostopa za invalide, da si lahko ogledajo umetniška dela. Ta razstava želi okrepiti vključenost občinstva v vizualno umetnost prek reliefov, ki se jih lahko dotikamo, poslušanja avdioposnetkov in opisov umetnikov. Na razstavi sodelujejo umetniki Thomas Brezing, David Creedon, Alice Maher, Caroline McCarthy in Abigail O’Brien, posebej za razstavo pa sta dela ustvarili tudi Amanda Coogan in Daphne Wright.

{ Art & Culture } Vienna, MAK Flowers for Kim Il Sung – Art and architecture from the Democratic People's Republic of Korea Till 5 September Through large format paintings and contemporary positions in the areas of film, poster art and architecture, the exhibition offers insight into the art production of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. In collaboration with the National Gallery in Pyongyang, MAK has put together a comprehensive show offering the first presentation of the gallery’s original works in a foreign museum. For several months, visitors to MAK will have the opportunity to gain, in a world premiere, an impression of the culture of the Democratic People‘s Republic of Korea (DPRK), which has been isolated since its founding in 1948.

Madrid, Reina Sofia The Potosí Principle Till 6 September The project Principio Potosí centers on analysing the notion of modernity and its universal expansion, which has taken place since the colonisation of Latin America. The exhibition will display examples of Andean colonial painting and works by international artists, inviting viewers to reflect on relationships between sixteenth- to eighteenth-century colonial art and the contemporary world. Beginning with examples of viceregal painting from the Potosí School, the project’s line of investigation relates these isolated fragments of history to the conditions of artistic production today.

Istanbul, Istanbul Modern Murat Germen: Way Till 19 September Murat Germen writes "I think of photography as an opportunity to bring to the fore the ordinary things that people, consciously or unconsciously, ig-

nore or don’t see, and give them the chance to change their prejudices. I try to bring out the extraordinariness that may be latent in the normal." When one looks at his previous works, such as "Industry as Icon: Industrial Aesthetics" and "Construct", it is possible to see that in addition to this statement the artist focuses on the production process rather than the final product. His series Way follows a similar approach: The concept of Way can lead to many different associations; it can emerge before us within the context of transitional linearities that take us from one place to another via land / air / sea, or it can emerge before us as, for example, the means to reach a goal.

as modernising programmes in Latin America and border zones in areas of conflict, often asking about the relevance of poetic acts in politicised situations. He has used video projection and film but also spreads his ideas through postcards. Painting and drawing remain central to his work, too.

Moscow, Moscow Museum of Modern Art Alexandra Exter – "A Retrospective" Till August 22

Stockholm, Millesgården Between Sky and Sea Till 3 October Landscape architect Ulf Nordfjell, art historian Ia Schildt and designer Synnöve Mork search for and tease out the beauty of the Millesgården. Using brainwork and handiwork, gently and resolutely, they add new forms, colours and scents to the park and the garden. Ulf Nordfjell is a two-time gold medal winner and the 2009 recipient of the "Best in Show" award at the Chelsea Flower Show.

Alexandra Exter was the originator of a crucial trend in Russian art known as Cubo-Futurism, a characteristic "Russian" version of Futurism reflected in numerous abstract pieces, still-lifes and townscapes. Exter was a leader of new ideas in Russian painting, as she familiarised Russian viewers with the latest developments in the Parisian avant-garde. As she spent a lot of time in Paris, Exter was friends with Pablo Picasso, Fernand Léger, Robert and Sonia Delaunay, Guillaume Apollinaire and many other brilliant figures of the time. She promoted their creation in Russia and, in her own work, demonstrated ways for Russian artists to adapt their discoveries.

London, Tate Modern Francis Alÿs Till 5 September A man pushes a massive block of ice through the streets of Mexico City until it melts to nothing. Five hundred volunteers walk over a huge sand dune in Lima, Peru, digging with spades and shifting the dune a few centimeters as they go. These are the works of the celebrated artist Francis Alÿs (born in Belgium, 1959) and the subject of a major exhibition at Tate Modern. Alÿs’s work starts with a simple action, either by him or others, which is then documented in a range of media. Alÿs explores subjects such

Zurich, Kunsthaus Zürich Adrian Paci Till 22 August Adrian Paci is one of Albania’s few internationally renowned artists. In his work – which comprises videos, paintings, installations and photography – he addresses topics like migration, globalisation and cultural identity, and uses urgently compelling images to demonstrate the effects of exile, war and social upheaval on the human subject. Born in 1969 in Shkoder, Albania, Paci currently lives in Milan. He has earned a broad reputation with contributions to key international exhibitions. The Kun-

sthaus Zürich is hosting Paci’s first solo museum show in Switzerland. The artist has specially created a new video piece for the occasion, to be showcased at the Kunsthaus and supplemented with works from recent years.

Dublin, IMMA | Irish Museum of Modern Art Altered Images From 18 June till 15 August Accessible, interactive and inclusive in ethos, Altered Images aims to stimulate engagement with the visual arts for the general public and particularly for people with disabilities. The idea that a visual art exhibition should be accessible to all is not a new one; most museums and galleries have an access program that enables people with disabilities to experience artworks. The exhibition aims to enhance people’s engagement with the works through the tactility of relief models, by listening to the audio and artist’s descriptions. The exhibition includes work by artists Thomas Brezing, David Creedon, Alice Maher, Caroline McCarthy and Abigail O’Brien, with especially commissioned works by Amanda Coogan and Daphne Wright.

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{ Adrijin potnik }

Miha Krofel

raziskovalec na Biotehniški fakulteti Univerze v Ljubljani

Ris, velika in diskretna mačka

Besedilo in fotografije: Urban Golob

iha Krofel je biolog, raziskovalec. Poleg preučevanja risje populacije v Sloveniji se Miha Krofel ukvarja še z medvedom in volkom, torej z vsemi tremi velikimi zvermi, ki živijo pri nas na istem prostoru. To

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je redkost in veliko naravno bogastvo, ki nam jo zavidajo številni poznavalci z vsega sveta. Z Mihom

Kroflom smo se pogovarjali o risu, največji evropski mački in tudi najbolj občutljivem predstavniku velikih plenilcev. Njegov obstoj je odvisen predvsem od človeka, ki danes drži v rokah vse niti tega obstoja. Zato je poznavanje in osveščanje javnosti o vlogi risa – pa tudi volka in medveda – v naravnem ravnovesju izjemnega pomena.

Pravite, da imamo v Sloveniji tri velike zveri: medveda, volka in risa. Kakšen je njihov pomen za naše okolje?

Vse te tri vrste so ključne vrste v ekosistemu in vsaka izmed njih ima svoje funkcije. Največ jih ima pravzaprav medved. Najbolj očitna in tudi zanimiva je ta, da je pomemben za razširjanje semen rastlinskih vrst. Ko medved zaužije kakšen plod, prebavi njegove mesnate dele, semena pa ostanejo neprebavljena. Zato seme preživi in ima celo večjo kaljivost od drugih. Medved je velika žival, poje ogromno takšne hrane in se veliko premika, zato semena zelo uspešno širi. Volk in ris pa sta plenilca in sta pomembna za uravnavanje populacije velikih rastlinojedcev v gozdu – jelenjadi in srnjadi. Opravljata predvsem naravno selekcijo, saj lovita šibkejše osebke. Po drugi strani pa imajo te zveri tudi naravovarstveno funkcijo. Če hočemo risa, ki ima svoj teritorij velik okrog 30.000 hektarjev, ohraniti, moramo obvarovati vso to površino, ves ta ekosistem, vse tamkajšnje rastline in živali, tudi na primer majhne žužke. Za ohranitev teh malih živalic ne bi dobili podpore javnosti, veliko lažje pa je to npr. z risom, ki je velika in lepa mačka. Vse tri velike zveri so tudi pomembne za ekoturizem. Evropejec – ekoturist –, ki potuje po Sloveniji, bi rad videl predvsem katero od velikih zveri, še posebej medveda. Te zveri so torej ekonomsko pomembne za lokalne skupnosti, pa tudi za državo, pri tem pa ne smemo pozabiti tudi

na lovni turizem. Medved je zelo zaželena trofeja in ima veliko vrednost. Ker se pri nas vsako leto upleni veliko medvedov, okrog 80, je to lahko pomemben dohodek za lokalne skupnosti oziroma lovske družine. Obstaja pa še estetska funcija teh treh živali. Ljudem se zdijo lepe in bi jih radi ohranili, čeprav nimajo od tega nobenega dobička. Ris se od volka in medveda razlikuje po tem, da je v naših krajih enkrat že izumrl.

Ris je dejansko najbolj občutljiva vrsta med velikimi zvermi in so ljudje zato prav njega enkrat – in to v začetku 20. stoletja – že iztrebili. So pa lovci kmalu ugotovili, da ta žival manjka v dinarskem ekosistemu, in so ga prav oni leta 1973 ponovno naselili in tako v naše gozdove vrnili žival, ki je bila tukaj od nekdaj prisotna. Risov je le še malo v Sloveniji in tudi sicer se jih težko opazi. Kako pravzaprav to zver proučujete?

Pri risu je problematično, da se izogiba človeka in živi prikrito življenje. Je nočno aktivna žival in živi v habitatu s slabo vidljivostjo, to je v gozdu. Neposredna opažanja so zelo redka, izjemna. Ne moreš ga proučevati kot na primer geparde v Afriki, ko se z džipom odpelješ v savano, vzameš daljnogled in opazuješ njihovo vedenje. Zato moramo pri risu uporabljati posredne metode raziskovanje. Takšno je na primer sledenje

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v snegu, ko na podlagi sledi vidimo, kako se je gibal, kje je počival, kaj je počel itd. Rise spremljamo tudi s telemetrijo, ki se intenzivno uporablja zadnjih 30, 40 let. Žival se opremi z oddajnikom in potem spremljamo, kje in kako se giblje. Na ta način smo npr. tudi našli risje mladiče, stare samo dva dni. Ker so ti oddajniki opremljeni tudi s senzorji za gibanje, lahko ugotovimo, kaj je žival počela na določenem mestu. Vedno bolj pa prihaja v ospredje tudi genetika, s katero lahko odgovorimo na veliko vprašanj, med temi npr., koliko risov živi na nekem območju, njihovo sorodnost, socialne vezi in podobno. Toda dejstvo je, da število risov v Sloveniji upada. Kaj ali kdo jih najbolj ogroža?

Glavna vzroka sta najverjetneje dva: nezakonit lov in parjenje v sorodstvu. Vsi risi v Sloveniji so dejansko potomci treh risjih parov, ki so jih leta 1973 pripeljali iz Slovaške. Sicer še ne vemo natančno, kakšne vse so posledice parjenja v sorodstvu za našo populacijo risov, skušamo pa to ugotoviti. Nezakonit lov je zelo težko dokumentirati. Vemo, da se dogaja, dobivamo kar nekaj mehkih informacij o tem, našli smo tudi nekaj ubitih živali, kljub vsemu pa ne moremo trditi, v kakšni meri se dogaja in kakšen je njegov vpliv na populacijo.

Naša populacija risa je očitno zanimiva in pomembna tudi v mednarodnem prostoru. Pred nekaj meseci ste v Sloveniji organizirali delavnico o prihodnosti upravljanja z risi, na kateri so se z našimi risi ukvarjali strokovnjaki tako iz Evrope kot iz Amerike.

Dejstvo je, da je dinarska populacija risov med najbolj ogroženimi v Evropi, se pa tudi pri mnogih drugih populacijah srečujejo s podobnimi težavami kot pri nas. Zato smo si med seboj izmenjali izkušnje in se dogovorili za nadaljnje upravljanje z risom. Te živali namreč ne poznajo meja in populacije segajo lahko v različne države. Če se Slovenci odločimo za dodatno naselitev še nekaj risov, da bi zmanjšali učinke parjenja v sorodstvu, se bo to odražalo tudi drugih državah, v tem primeru predvsem na Hrvaškem. Zato potrebujemo pri sprejemanju takšnih odločitev širši konsenz . Pri velikih zvereh je verjetno pomembno tudi ozaveščanje domače javnosti.

Pri velikih zvereh, ki živijo na tako gosto naseljenem območju, kot je Evropa, je odnos javnosti ključnega pomena. Kjer so tem živalim naklonjeni, imajo zveri dobre možnosti za preživetje. V Franciji na primer pa je že peščica medvedov precej preveč. Izhodišče pri doseganju pravega odnosa javnosti je ta, da bodo ljudje želeli ohraniti določeno živalsko vrsto le, če jo bodo bolje poznali. Še posebej je to pomembno za živali,

{ Adria Passenger }

Miha Krofel researcher at the Faculty of Biotechnology, University of Ljubljana

The lynx: a big, secretive cat Text and Photography: Urban Golob

Miha Krofel is a research biologist. As well as studying

Slovenia’s lynx population, he is involved in the study of

bears and wolves, and thus deals with all three of the large

carnivores that, in Slovenia, live in the same area. This is a rarity and a great natural treasure for which we are envied

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by many experts all over the world. We talked to Miha

Krofel about the lynx, the largest European feline and also the most vulnerable representative of the large predators.

Its survival depends above all on human beings. Today all

the threads of its existence are in our hands. For this reason ki so lahko konfiktne, kot so to velike zveri, ki lahko povzročajo ljudem škodo. Bolj kot poznamo neko živalsko vrsto in katere stvari vodijo do konfliktov, lažje bomo zmanjšali verjetnost konfliktnih situacij. Dober primer so medvedi. Vedno bolj se kaže, da je glavni vzrok konfliktov dejstvo, da medvedi dobijo hrano v bližini naselja. Lahko so to klavniški odpadki, smetišča ali pa slabo zavarovani smetnjaki. Če vemo, kako skrbeti za te odpadke in preprečiti, da bi imeli medvedi dostop do njih, lahko konflikte z medvedom zelo zmanjšamo. To se je zelo lepo pokazalo v Severni Ameriki. Javnost izobražujemo na več načinov. Prirejamo predavanja v okviru našega društva Dinaricum, kjer govorimo o pomenu teh živali v naravi, o težavah z njimi in kako te težave zmanjšamo, podajamo pa tudi osnovne informacije o teh vrstah. Veliko ljudi ima namreč zmotne predstave o velikih zvereh. Na primer za risa mnogi še vedno mislijo, da živi na drevesih, kar je popolna zmota. To napačno prepričanje izhaja iz tega, da so včasih lovili rise s psi, pred katerimi so se te zveri zatekle na drevo. Sam sem presledil risom nekaj sto kilometrov, pa nikoli ni nobeden splezal na drevo. Če se ti miti razbijejo, posebej tisti, ki prikazujejo te živali kot krvoločne, se lahko odnos prebivalcev do njih precej izboljša. Veliko sodelujemo pri tem tudi novinarji iz časopisov in radia. Posebno pomemben medij je televizija in zato bo na primer dokumentarni film o risu, ki ga pripravljajo na RTV SLO in bo na sporedu jeseni, zelo pomagal pri ozaveščanju javnosti.

knowledge of and public awareness of the role of the lynx – and that of the wolf and the bear – in the natural balance is of extraordinary importance. We have three large carnivores in Slovenia: the bear, the wolf and the lynx. What is their importance for our environment?

All three species are key elements in the ecosystem and each of them has its own functions. It is actually the bear that plays the most important role. The most evident and interesting function of the bear is that it is an important disperser of plant seeds. When a bear eats a fruit, it digests the flesh, but the seeds remain undigested. The seeds survive and in fact have a greater capacity for germination than other seeds. The bear is a large animal that eats a lot of such food and moves around a lot, and therefore disperses seeds very effectively. The wolf and the lynx, on the other hand, are predators and are important for balancing the population of large herbivores – red deer and roe deer – in the forest. Above all, they perform natural selection, because they hunt weaker specimens. These carnivores also have a nature protection function. If we want to conserve the lynx, which lives in a territory of around 30,000 hectares, we have to conserve the whole of this area, the entire ecosystem, meaning all the plants and animals that live there, including, for example, tiny beetles. Public support for the conservation of these tiny creatures is difficult

to obtain. It is much easier in the case of animals such as the lynx, which is a big and beautiful cat. All three large carnivores are also important for eco-tourism. The European eco-tourist travelling through Slovenia wants most of all to see one of the large carnivores, especially the bear. Large carnivores are therefore economically important for local communities, and for the country as a whole, and we should not forget hunting tourism either. A bear is an extremely desirable trophy and very valuable. Since a large number of bears – around 80 – are killed by hunters in Slovenia every year, this can be an important source of income for local communities or hunting organisations. These three animals also have an aesthetic function. People find them beautiful and want to conserve them even when there is no profit in it for them. The lynx differs from the wolf and the bear in that it has already died out once in Slovenia.

The lynx is actually the most vulnerable species among the large carnivores, which is why it has already been driven to extinction once in our country – in the early 20th century. Hunters soon realised, however, that this animal had left a gap in the Dinaric ecosystem, and it was they who reintroduced it in 1973, facilitating the return to our forests of an animal that had always been present here. Only a few lynx remain in Slovenia and they are not easy to observe. How do you actually study them?

The problem with the lynx is that it avoids human beings and lives a secretive life. It is nocturnal and lives in a habitat where visibility is poor – in the forest. Direct sightings are extremely rare. An exception, in fact. You cannot study it like, for example, cheetahs in Africa, where you set off in a jeep into the savannah, take your binoculars and observe their behaviour. And so in the case of the lynx we have to use indirect methods of research. Tracking in the snow, for example, where on the basis of its tracks we can see how it moved, where it rested, what it did, and so on. We also monitor lynx with telemetry, which has been used intensively for the last 30 or 40 years. An animal is fitted with a transmitter and then we monitor where and how it moves. This has even allowed us to find, for example, two-day-old lynx cubs. Since these transmitters are also fitted with motion sensors, we are able to establish what an animal has done where. Genetics is also becoming increasingly important and allows us to answer many questions about how many lynx live in a given area, their relationship to each other, social ties and so on. But it is a fact that the number of lynx in Slovenia is falling. What is the biggest threat they face?

There are probably two main causes: illegal hunting and interbreeding. All the lynx in Slovenia are actually descendants of three pairs of lynx that were brought from Slovakia in 1973. We still do not know exactly what all the consequences of interbreeding may be for our lynx population, but we are trying to find out. We do, however, know of cases with other species. Illegal hunting is very difficult to document. We know it happens. We hear quite a lot of rumours about it and have even found some dead ani-

mals, but even so we are unable to say to what extent it takes place and what its effect is on the population. Slovenia’s lynx population is evidently also interesting and important at the international level. A few months ago you organised in Slovenia a workshop on the future of lynx management which saw experts from Europe and America consider issues relating to our lynx.

It is a fact that the Dinaric lynx population is among the most endangered in Europe, although many other populations are facing the same difficulties as ours. For this reason we exchanged experiences and reached agreements for the further managing of the lynx population. Lynx do not recognise borders and populations can extend into different countries. If in Slovenia we were to decide to introduce a few more lynx in order to minimise the effects of interbreeding, this would also affect other countries, in this case Croatia in particular. We therefore need a broad consensus when taking decisions on what needs to be done. In the case of large carnivores it is presumably important to raise the awareness of local public.

In the case of large carnivores living in such a densely populated area as Europe, the attitude of the public is of key importance. Where the attitude of the public towards these animals is positive, they have a good chance of survival. In France, for example, even a handful of bears is seen as too many. When it comes to achieving the right attitude among the public, it is usually the case that people are in favour of conserving a given species when they know more about it. This is particularly important in the case of potentially conflict-causing animals such as large carnivores, which can cause harm to human beings. The better we know a given species and the possible causes of conflict situations, the easier it is to reduce the likelihood of conflicts. A good example of this bears. It is increasingly evident that in this case the main cause of conflict is the fact that bears scavenge for food in the vicinity of human settlements. Food sources can be the remains of slaughtered animals, rubbish dumps and improperly closed dustbins. If we know how to deal properly with this waste and prevent bears from getting access to it, we can greatly reduce conflicts with bears. This has been very well demonstrated in North America. We educate the public in several ways. The Dinaricum society organises lectures in which we talk about the importance of these animals in the wild, and about the problems they cause and how to reduce them, and we also provide some basic information about these species. Many people have mistaken ideas about large carnivores. In the case of lynx, many people still think that they live in trees, which is completely wrong. This mistaken conviction derives from the fact that dogs were once used to hunt lynx, which would seek refuge in trees in order to escape the dogs. I myself have tracked lynx for hundreds of kilometres but none of them has ever climbed a tree. If we dispel these myths, particularly those that portray these animals as bloodthirsty, the attitude of the human population will improve considerably. We also work closely with journalists from newspapers and radio. Television is a particularly important medium, so the documentary about the lynx currently being prepared by RTV Slovenia for broadcast in the autumn will be very helpful in raising public awareness.

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M端nchen Belo modro nebo

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elo modro nebo nad Münchnom. Značilni barvi Bavarske. Bela in modra. Znak na mogočni stavbi se ponosno dviga v nebo. Črn

kolobar, razdeljen na štiri kvadrante, dva obarvano modro, dva belo. Vrteči se letalski propeler na bavarskem nebu. BMW. Kratica označuje eno največjih korporacij v avtomobilski industriji. Zgodba BMW sega v leto 1913, ko je Karl Friedrich Rapp v Münchnu ustanovil podjetje za izdelavo letalskih motorjev. Ko se je znašel v ﬁnančni krizi, ga je prodal Avstrijcema, Franzu Josefu Poppu in Maxu Frizu. Imenovala sta ga BMW, Bayerische Motor Werke. Sprva sta izdelovala le letalske motorje, ki so podirali rekorde, leta 1923 sta izdelala prvo motorno kolo, 1928 pa je njuno podjetje vstopilo še v svet avtomobilizma. Po drugi svetovni vojni se je BMW dokončno usmeril le na cesto. Celoten imperij je še vedno na prvotni lokaciji.

Besedilo: Gašper Zupančič

Fotografije: Blaž Zupančič

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{ MÜnchen }

( 40 )

godba podjetja je na ogled v BMW muzeju, ki so ga zgradili leta 1973. Arhitekt Karl Schwanzer, Dunajčan, je načrtoval muzej v obliki »sklede«, ob njem pa poslovni nebotičnik, sestavljen iz štirih valjev. Pred nekaj leti so stavbo, ki je pod spomeniškim varstvom, obnovili in jo poleti 2008 ponovno odprli. Muzej je koncipiran kot 1000 metrov dolga cesta s trgi, mostovi in hišami, ki obiskovalca popelje skozi razvoj njihovih letalskih motorjev, motociklov in seveda avtomobilov. Teče skozi 7 različnih soban in 25 ambientalnih postavitev, v katerih predstavljajo razvoj avtomobila od ideje do prototipa. Zamisel o sami ideji avtomobila je že na začetku razložena s kinetično skulpturo, sestavljeno iz 714 srebrnih kroglic, ki na tankih nitih visijo s stropa. Vsaka kroglica ima svoj električni motor, ki jo računalniško vodeno dviguje in spušča. Tako se pred nami harmonično spreminjajo oblike kot neko valovanje, ki se na koncu oblikuje v najnovejši model avtomobila. Skulptura je na vseh pomembnejših natečajih po svetu pobirala nagrade: dva zlata leva v Cannesu, nemško zlato nagrado za dizajn, Red dot award 2009 ... Tehnološko inovativna je tudi celotna notranja opna prostora, ki ima pod steklenimi ploščami na milijone svetlečih diod, ki kot velikanski ekran dodajajo prostoru likovne podobe in ustvarjajo posebno vzdušje. Druga sobana pripoveduje zgodovino podjetja, v tretji pa izvemo vse o motorjih in tehniki. Vidimo vse BMW-jeve dosežke, tako v motošportu kot v avtomobilizmu, in pa seveda njihov znani oddelek za razvoj športnih serijskih avtomobilov M (Motorsport). Ogled so zaključili z razstavnim prostorom, kjer se srečamo z vizijo podjetja tudi s pomočjo razstavljenih konceptnih avtomobilov. BMW se usmerja na vsa pomembna področja: na varnost, materiale ter na čim manjšo porabo goriva. Ekološko so ozaveščeni že od leta 1970. Avtomobili so narejeni po principu Less is more (manj je več), karoserija in bloki motorja morajo biti čim lažji, a vseeno varni, zato uporabljajo le najboljše zlitine magnezija in aluminija. Ker so naravni viri energije omejeni, že od leta 1980 razvijajo vozila na vodik. Leta 2004 so postavili hitrostni rekord z avtomobilom H2R v svojem razredu. Hitrost dirkalnika je presegla 300 km/h! Zaradi ekologije pa se BMW počasi umika s tekmovalnih stez. Pravijo, da porabijo preveč časa, materialov in ljudi za izpopolnjevanje dirkalnikov. Osvojili pa so tako ali tako skoraj vse pomembne nagrade. Na 16.000 kvadratnih metrih stoji neverjetna zgradba »BMW Welt« ali po slovensko »svet BMW-ja«. V hali lahko pasemo oči na vseh najnovejših modelih avtomobilov in preizkušamo vse tehnične izboljšave: na simulatorjih se lahko vozimo po snegu ali primerjamo ekonomičnost modelov (efficient dynamics). Zanimivo je, da avtomobila tam ne moreš kupiti. Lahko pa se pri svojem prodajalcu zmeniš, da ga tam prevzameš.

Zaradi ekologije se BMW počasi umika s tekmovalnih stez.

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Streho podpira samo 6 nosilnih stebrov ob straneh, kar pomeni, da je osrednji prostor popolnoma odprt. Na strehi so fotocelice, ki pridobivajo skoraj četrtino energije, potrebne za to stavbo. Ob vhodu je dvorana v obliki dvojnega stožca. Celotna zgradba je zastekljena s posebnimi stekli, ki poleti hladijo, pozimi pa grejejo prostor. Tako umetna klima ni potrebna. Ekološko in inovativno. Torej, če ste eden izmed avtomobilističnih »frikov« in seveda prav tako motorističnih, je obisk BMW-ja v Münchnu skorajda nujen. Če pa niste, vas bosta mogoče navdušili arhitektura in muzejska postavitev, kakršnih drugje ne moreš videti.

{ MÜnchen }

{ Munich }

Whiteblue Sky Text: Gašper Zupančič

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Photography: Blaž Župančič

he white-blue sky above Munich. The colours of Bavaria. White and blue. The symbol atop the imposing building rises proudly into the sky. A black roundel divided into four quadrants, two blue and two white. A spinning propeller in the Bavarian sky. BMW. An abbreviation that designates one of the greatest corporations in the motor vehicle industry. The BMW story begins in 1913, when Karl Friedrich Rapp founded an aero-engine company in Munich. When he ran into financial difficulties, he sold his company to two Austrians, Franz Josef Popp and Max Friz. They called it BMW: Bayerische Motoren Werke (Bavarian Motor Works). To begin with the company only produced aircraft engines, some of

which broke records. In 1923 BMW produced its first motorcycle, and in 1928 the company began making cars. After the Second World War, BMW finally dedicated itself exclusively to road vehicles. The entire empire is still in its original location. Its history is on view at the BMW Museum, built in 1973. Viennese architect Karl Schwanzer designed the bowl-shaped museum and the adjacent office tower, consisting of four cylinders. A listed building since 1999, the museum reopened in the summer of 2008 following an extensive renovation. The museum is conceived as a 1000-metre-long street, complete with squares, bridges and houses, which takes the visitor through the development of BMW’s aircraft engines, motorcycles and, of course, cars. It runs through seven different spaces and 25 installations presenting the development of the motor car from idea to prototype. The very idea of the car is interpreted at the beginning of the exhibition by the Kinetic Sculpture, consisting of 714 silver balls hanging from the ceiling on thin steel wires attached to individual computer-controlled electric motors that raise and lower the balls. The sculpture evolves harmoniously into different undulating forms, eventually resolving into the shape of the latest design of car. The Kinetic Sculpture has won awards at important competitions around the world: two Golden Lions in Cannes, gold at the German Design Awards, the grand prix at the Red Dot Communication Design Awards in 2009, etc. Technological innovation is also present on the inside walls of the museum, which are covered with millions of LEDs beneath glass panels, adding images to the space like a giant screen and creating a special atmosphere.

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{ Munich }

{ Munich } The second exhibition space tells the story of the company, while the third is devoted to engines and technology. The museum presents all of BMW’s achievements both on the racetrack and on the road, and of course the company’s famous M (Motorsport) subsidiary. A visit to the museum ends in an exhibition space devoted to the company’s vision, which includes an exhibition of concept cars. BMW focuses on all important areas: safety, materials and fuel consumption. The company has been environmentally aware since 1970. Cars are made according to the less is more principal. The bodywork and engine blocks must be as light as possible, without compromising safety, so only the finest magnesium and aluminium alloys are used. Since natural energy resources are limited, BMW has been developing hydrogen-powered vehicles since 1980. In 2004 the company’s H2R (Hydrogen Record Car) set a class speed record, breaking the 300 km/h barrier.

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Environmental concerns have led to BMW’s gradual withdrawal from the racetrack.

( 45 ) Environmental concerns have led to BMW’s gradual withdrawal from the racetrack. Too much time and too many resources, both material and human, were taken up in the development of the company’s racing cars. In any case they have already won almost all the important competitions. The incredible BMW Welt (BMW World) building occupies a 16,000 square metre site. Inside, you can feast your eyes on all the latest models and try out all the company’s technical improvements: you can try driving on snow in a simulator or compare the efficiency of different models (BMW’s efficient dynamics concept). Interestingly, you cannot buy a car here. But your dealer can arrange for you to collect it here. The roof of the BMW Welt building is supported by just six columns along its sides, which means that the central space is entirely open. The roof is covered in photocells that provide almost a quarter of the energy that the building needs. By the entrance is a hall in the form of a double cone. The entire building is glazed with special glass that keeps it cool in summer and heats it in winter, making conventional air conditioning unnecessary. Environmentally friendly and innovative. BMW Welt receives 2 million visitors every year, making it Munich’s second biggest tourist attraction. It also hosts an annual jazz festival in a venue with a capacity of up to 1,000. A visit to BMW in Munich is a must for all car and motorcycle enthusiasts Even if you are not one of these, there is still much to admire in the architecture and a museum exhibition that is like nothing you will see anywhere else.

Adria Airways leti na liniji Ljubljana–München trikrat dnevno. Adria Airways flies between Ljubljana and Munich three times a day.

Dno ob piranski Punti

Pestrost življenja

v kalnem morju V

elika modrina ni vedno modra in pogled z gladine ne kaže vselej igre sončnih žarkov, ki se lomijo skozi prehode sinjine v temno globino. Pa vendar je prav motno morje, ( 46 ) nekakšna juha razpršenih drobnih delcev, ki se dvigujejo z morskega dna in tja spet počasi tonejo, tisto okolje, ki kar vrvi od življenja. Slovenski košček morja ob piranski Punti je prav tak, nekakšen grdi raček sinjega Jadrana, ki pa v sebi skriva neverjetno življenjsko pestrost.

Besedilo: Tom Turk

Fotografije: Borut Furlan

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{ Spoštljivo do narave }

( 48 )

iološka raznovrstnost ali biodiverziteta, ki ji je posvečeno prav letošnje leto, je v morju ob klinastem polotoku, na katerem stojijo častitljive piranske hiše, izredno velika. Razlog za biološko pestrost so morski tokovi in velike količine anorganskih in organskih delcev, ki so hrana planktonu, ta pa poganja celoten prehranjevalni splet. Potopljeni flišni pragovi, druga na drugo nametane skale, obrasle z algami, spužvami, morskimi vetrnicami, mahovnjaki in plaščarji. Med njimi lazijo morski ježki, zvezde, kačjerepi in polži. Nekateri med polži, zlasti tisti, ki jim pravimo goli, se gizdavo bahajo z živimi barvami in vzorci. Čeprav so večinoma majhni, močno odstopajo od monotone podlage rjavih alg, ki preraščajo skale. Med skalami so številne luknje, skriti domovi rib, rakov in raznih mehkužcev. Trdna podlaga se sicer konča že v globini 12 metrov, pa vendar to še ne pomeni, da je globlje življenje kaj manj pestro. Morda še celo bolj, le spremeni se, tako kakor se spremeni morsko dno, ki iz kamnitega najprej preide v peščeno, nato pa v muljasto ravnico, ta pa le počasi tone v večjo globino. Tu je nekakšen slovenski preliv Lembeh (morska ožina na indonezijskem otoku Sulavesi, ki je znana po nenavadnih živalih in izredni biodiverziteti). Vidljivost je v najboljšem primeru le nekaj metrov, morje je motno, sivkasto, dno prav tako, le tu pa tam iz njega štrli večji ali manjši otoček trdnega dna, ki je pravzaprav nastal s povezovanjem in zlepljanjem anorganskih ostankov, lupin in hišic odmrlih organizmov, na katere so se naselili novi in jih tako dodatno utrdili. Te oaze življenja v navidezno, ampak res samo navidezno mrtvi morski puščavi so nekakšni orientirji, med katerimi v oblaku izdihanih mehurčkov drsi potapljač, za njim pa oblak drobnih delcev, ki se dviguje izpod njegovih plavuti in se podi kot kakšen peščeni vihar preko potopljene ravnice. Vsiljivec predrami tukajšnje prebivalce, iz peska se dvigne morski list in mirno spolzi nekaj metrov stran, kjer spet ponikne v pesek, sipa se požene nazaj in v sivino brizgne nekaj črnine, raki samotarci drvijo po

Slovensko morje je majhno, a s

svojo pestrostjo vedno znova preseneča.

mulju, oviti v svoje strupene prijateljice – pikaste morske vetrnice, ki ob dotiku proti navideznemu sovražniku sprožijo vijolične ožigalne niti. Le nekaj metrov naprej se po dnu z desetimi pari nog elegantno premika velika marogasta kozica, ki se drugje le malokrat postavi na ogled, saj tam živi v večjih globinah. Med morskimi narcisami, ki na prozornih pecljih štrlijo iz morskega dna, lazi posebna vrsta golega polža, izredno redkega dolgolasega kuštravca, ki so mu prav narcise najljubša hrana. Številni ostanki različnih školjčnih lupin pričajo o bogatem življenju, zakopanem nekaj centimetrov pod površino dna. Ponekod so v dnu tudi velike luknje, v katerih domujejo moškatne hobotnice ali pa morske bogomolke, nenavadni raki s spoštovanja vrednimi plenilskimi nogami, ki pa na plan večinoma prilezejo le ponoči. Dno ob Piranski punti je eno redkih v Sredozemlju, kjer lahko, če imate seveda izostren vid in dober pogled, občudujete morske konjičke, te antipode svojih kopenskih soimenjakov. Tu pa lahko opazujete tudi druge lokalne posebneže, kot so nenavadni bočno stisnjeni kovači, ribe z dolgimi plavutmi in značilnim okroglim pečatom na sredini bokov, ter morske spake, nepremične ribe, dobro prikrite s kožnimi izrastki v obliki nekakšnega vabljivega črva. Ta zlahka premami neprevidno ribo, ki si obeta slasten zalogaj, pa se sama v trenutku spremeni v spakino kosilo. Slovensko morje je majhno, a s svojo pestrostjo vedno znova preseneča. Ne nazadnje tu žive tudi morske želve in delfini. Včasih pa nas prav posebno preseneti in razveseli – pred leti z obiskom kakšnih sedmih morskih psov orjakov, lansko leto pa kar s kitom grbavcem, ki se je pri nas očitno dobro počutil in je bil tu na počitnicah dober mesec dni.

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{ Dno ob piranski Punti }

{ Spoštljivo do narave }

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( 51 )

{ Dno ob piranski Punti }

{ The Seabed Off Piran Point }

Gayness of Life in the Murky Sea Text: Tom Turk

T ( 52 )

Photography: Borut Furlan

he big blue is not always blue and the view from the surface does not always show an interplay of sunbeams filtering through the transitions of blue to the murky depths. And yet the turbid sea, a kind of soup of dispersed tiny particles that lift from the seabed and slowly sink back down, is an environment teeming with life. Slovenia’s little patch of sea off Piran Point is just that: a kind of ugly duckling of the blue Adriatic that conceals an incredible variety of life. The biological diversity or biodiversity – of which 2010 is the International Year – of the sea surrounding the wedge-shaped peninsula on which Piran’s venerable houses stand is extraordinarily high. The reason for this diversity lies in the sea currents and the large quantities of inorganic and organic particles which provide food for the plankton, the motor of the entire food chain. Submerged flysch reefs, rocks thrown one on top of the other, are overgrown with algae, sponges, sea anemones, bryozoans and tunicates. Creeping among them are sea urchins, starfish and other echinoderms and sea snails. Some of the snails, especially the shell-less ones, commonly known as sea slugs, gaudily flaunt bright colours and patterns. Although most of them are very small, they stand out noticeably from the monotonous background of brown algae covering the rocks. Among the rocks are numerous holes, the hidden homes of fish, crabs and various molluscs. Although the solid seabed

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{ The Seabed Off Piran Point }

{ Respectful Towards Nature }

( 54 ) ends at a depth of 12 metres, this does not mean that life further down is any less varied. Perhaps it is even more so. It merely changes, just as the seabed changes, passing from rock to sand to a silty flatness that slowly sinks to a greater depth. This is Slovenia’s version of the Lembeh Strait, in North Sulawesi, Idonesia, famous as a home to rare forms of life and extraordinary biodiversity. Visibility is just a few metres at best. The sea is muddy and grey, as is the bottom. Here and there a little island of solid ground projects from the seabed, actually formed by the connection and bonding of inorganic remains, the shells of dead organisms, on which new ones have settled, further strengthening them. These oases of life in the apparently – but only apparently – dead desert of the sea are a sort of orientation point among which the diver slides in a curtain of bubbles, leaving behind him a cloud of tiny particles rising up beneath his fins and a swirling like a kind of sandstorm across the sunken plains. The intruder wakes up the inhabitants of the seabed. A flatfish rises up and gently slides a few metres away, where it again sinks to the sand. A cuttlefish retreats and squirts black ink into the greyness. Little hermit crabs hurry through the silt wrapped in their poisonous friends – cloak anemones which launch their violet acontia (defensive filaments) towards an apparent enemy when touched. A few metres further on a large speckled shrimp moves elegantly across the seabed on ten pairs of legs. This is a creature that rarely shows itself in other environments, where it lives at greater depths. Among the nodding hydroid (Corymorpha nutans) projecting from the seabed on transparent stems, creeps a special species of sea slug, the extremely rare kot shockheaded nudibranch (Cumanotus beaumonti). The nodding hydroid is in fact its favourite food. Numerous remains

Slovenia’s territorial sea

is small in extent but constantly surprises us with its variety and diversity. of a variety of shells are evidence of the rich life buried a few centimetres below the seabed. Large holes are home to musky octopuses and mantis shrimps – unusual marine crustaceans with impressive raptorial legs – although these generally only come out at night. The seabed off Piran Point is one of the rare parts of the Mediterranean where, provided you have sharp eyesight and a good view, you can admire seahorses – the exact opposites of their land-dwelling namesakes. You can also observe other local curiosities such as the unusual, laterally compressed John Dories, fish with long fins and characteristic round spots on their flanks, or monkfish, immobile and well-concealed fish with a fleshy growth on their heads in the shape of a tasty worm. This serves to lure incautious fish which, expecting a tasty morsel, suddenly find themselves transformed into a monkfish’s lunch. Slovenia’s territorial sea is small in extent but constantly surprises us with its variety and diversity. It is even home to turtles and dolphins. It can sometimes offer special surprises and delights, such as the visit some years ago by seven basking sharks, or last year’s visit by a humpback whale, which apparently felt at home here and stayed for over a month.

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{ Raja Ampat }

Fotolov ( 56 )

gozdu te nemalokrat prevzame strah. Temne sence visokih dreves oblikujejo vse mogoče podobe, ki se razprostirajo preko razgibanih tal. Zamolklo tišino od časa do časa prekine glas neznanega bitja. Toda sčasoma se vseh teh skrivnostnih podob in glasov privadiš in spoznaš, da se prav v tem miru, ki ga nudi zavetje gozdov, duša spočije. Zazdi se ti, kot da se tu življenje nikdar ne ustavi: čas je natančno razpet med jutrom in večerom ter med dnevom in nočjo, zelo natančno so razvrščena dogajanja med pomladjo in jesenjo ter med poletjem in zimo. Niti za minuto ne zakasni vsakodnevno oglašanje ptic v jutranji zarji in komaj za kak dan se zamudi poleganje mladičev spomladi. Besedilo in fotografije: Alojzij Skvarča

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{ Spoštljivo do narave }

( 58 )

eliko lažje je o doživetjih med temi skrivnostnimi bitji gozdov pripovedovati, če vzameš s seboj fotoaparat. Ali so se nam ti skrivnostni prebivalci gozdov pripravljeni tako odkriti, da jih lahko ujamemo v fotografski objektiv? Pod temnimi krošnjami dreves pa je, žal, velikokrat premalo svetlobe za dobro fotografijo in veliko živali šele v mraku postane aktivnih. Večina živali ima nas, ljudi, za svoje plenilce – tako podobo so vanje vtisnili že naši predniki. Tako si primoran za dober posnetek to svojo »človeško« podobo prikriti, za kar je še najbolj uporaben maskirni šotor. V njem se, vsaj v začetku, res počutiš rahlo tesnobno, saj je gibanje nekoliko omejeno, pa tudi pogled skozi ozke line je malce okrnjen. Toda sčasoma, z leti se tudi tega navadiš. Seveda moraš pri tem upoštevati še smer vetra, ki mora pihati proti tebi, da te živali ne zavohajo. Pazljivo moraš prisluhniti vsem tem glasovom in biti pozoren na sledi, ki jih ti skriti prebivalci puščajo za seboj. Kajti tudi te »divje« živali imajo speljane svoje poti – stečine. Zapomnijo si jih do koraka natančno in jih tudi označijo z vonjavami. Le tako se lahko srna še v noči pomakne proti jasi, kjer se napase v jutranji rosi, in tudi lisica si v trdni temi poišče pravo smer med gostim rastjem. Ob takšno stečino je potrebno priti tiho, najbolje še v jutranjem mraku, da s svojim prihodom ne opozoriš nase vedno budnih ptic. Ne smeš pa biti preveč razočaran, če že v začetku ni uspeha. Morda na bližnje veje prvič prileti samo detel, toda glej, kar tri lešnike je prinesel s seboj! Po letu vztrajnega vračanja na to mesto se pripase mimo srnjak ali jelen, morda celo košuta z mladičem. Biti pa moraš vseskozi buden, da te nekoč ne preseneti divji prašič. Zavedati se moraš, da je pri fotolovu največje zagotovilo za uspeh vztrajnost! Sčasoma dobiš tudi odgovor, zakaj miška tako hitro švigne med korenine in zakaj so srne tako plahe. Nanje prežijo plenilci, zveri, in šele z njimi je lahko krog obstoja vseh bitij v tem gozdu sklenjen. Če si dovolj pazljiv in spreten, je možno tako posneti tudi kuno, lisico ali pa celo divjo mačko. Čisto na vrhu tega kroga pa so pri nas še vedno prisotne tudi velike zveri: volk, ris in medved. Prisotnost volka ti sprva izdajo le njegovi sledovi v snegu, včasih pa najdeš ostanke njegovega plena. O njem te dokončno prepriča tudi posnetek s fotopastjo, ki si jo nastavil ob njegovo stečino. Žal pa se na to mesto vrne morda šele po mesecu ali dveh, tako prostrano je njegovo življenjsko območje. Tudi ris je v naših gozdovih še vedno prisoten, čeprav je za njegovo iztrebitev pred stoletjem kriv prav človek, a oddolžil se mu je že s ponovno naselitvijo pred tridesetimi leti. Še mu je možno slediti – žal vse bolj redko. Nič koliko večerov in juter je potrebno preždeti ob njegovi stečini, a dobljeni posnetek poplača ves trud! Od trojice naših velikih plenilcev je s svojo markantno pojavo tu še medved. Tudi on ubira prek naših gozdov svoja skrivna pota. Ali ga je moč ob njih fotografirati? Kot že toliko juter si zopet tam in glej, prav takrat pride mimo. Nič se ne ustavlja, kar gre in gre, ti pa mu skušaš slediti s fotoaparatom. Končno ga le pokličeš po imenu: »Medo!« Kar tako – ker se pač v tistem razburjenju ne moreš spomniti ničesar drugega. Zdaj šele se ustavi in pogleda v smer zamaskirane kupole, stoječe med drevjem, ter na njej z drobnimi očmi poišče okroglo odprtino objektiva. Natančno na njej se za trenutek ustavi njegov vprašujoči pogled.

Večina živali ima nas, ljudi, za njihove plenilce – tako podobo so vanje vtisnili že naši predniki.

{ Fotolov }

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{ Respectful Towards Nature }

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Photohunting Text and photography: Alojzij Skvarča

ear often seizes you in the forest. The dark shadows of the tall trees conjure up fantastic images that extend across the uneven forest floor. Now and then the hollow silence is broken by the voice of some unknown creature. But in time you get used to all these mysterious sights and sounds and realise that here, in the peaceful shelter of the forest, the soul can truly relax. You have the impression that life never stops here: time is stretched tautly between morning and evening, between day and night. Life is divided very precisely between spring and autumn, between summer and winter. The dawn chorus is always on time, to the minute, and young animals are born at the same time, almost to the day, each spring. It is far easier to narrate your experiences among the shy forest creatures if you take a camera with you. Are the secretive denizens of the forest willing to reveal themselves to us to the extent that we can catch them in our lens? Unfortunately there is often too little light below the dark treetops for a good photograph, and most animals only become active at twilight. The majority of forest creatures see us humans as predators – an impression fixed in them by our ancestors. This means that you are obliged to conceal your “human” appearance, and the best way to do this is with a camouflage tent. Inside it you feel slightly uncomfortable, at least to start with. Movement is limited and even the view through the narrow apertures is somewhat restricted. Slowly, however, over the years, you get used to this too. Naturally you also have to take into account the wind direction. It is important to stay downwind so that the animals do not pick up your scent.

You must listen carefully to every sound and pay attention to the traces that the forest-dwellers leave behind them. For even these “wild” animals have their own paths. They memorise them to the last step and even mark them with scents. Only in this way can the deer find its way, when it is still dark, to the clearing where it grazes in the morning dew, or the fox pick its course through the undergrowth in the dead of night. You need to approach these paths quietly – daybreak is the best time – so as not to alert the ever watchful birds. You must not be too disappointed if success eludes you at the beginning. Perhaps you will only see a woodpecker land on a nearby branch the first time you go, but look, it has brought three hazelnuts with it! Over a year of patiently returning to the same spot, you might see a grazing deer or even a hind with her fawn. But you must always keep a careful lookout for wild boar. And you should realise that in photohunting the best guarantee of success is persistence! Over time you also begin to understand why the mouse disappears so quickly among the tree roots and why deer are so timid. Predators lie in wait for them – the wild animals that complete the circle of life in this forest. If you are careful and skilful enough, you may even be able to photograph a marten, a fox or even a wildcat. Right at the top of this circle of life are the large carnivores still present in Slovenia: the wolf, the lynx and the brown bear. The presence of a wolf is initially only betrayed by its tracks in the snow, although you sometimes find remains of its prey. Conclusive proof might be a photograph taken with a camera trap set up along its path. Unfortunately, however, it may not return to the same spot for a month or two, so large is its range. The lynx is also still present in Slovenia's forests. Man was responsible for its extermination a century ago, but we have repaid our debt by reintroducing it in the last 30 years. Lynxes can still be found but, unfortunately, they are

The majority of forest creatures see us humans as predators – an impression fixed in them by our ancestors. increasingly rare. It might take many evenings and mornings lying in wait by their paths, but the resulting photograph makes all the effort worthwhile! The trinity of large carnivores is completed by the imposing appearance of the brown bear. Bears, too, have their own secret paths through our forests. Might it be possible to get a photograph? There you are once again, as on so many other dawns, and – look! – here he comes. He does not stop; he just keeps on going, and you try to follow him with your camera. And then you hear yourself calling him by name: “Bruin!” Just like that – in your excitement you cannot think of anything else. Now he stops and looks in the direction of the camouflaged dome standing between the trees, his little eyes seeking the round aperture of your lens. And for a moment it holds his questioning gaze.

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Vremščica

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Vremščica: na pašo skupaj z ovcami Besedilo in fotografije: Stane Sušnik

vtocesta proti našemu koščku morja nas vodi skozi pestro pahljačo pokrajin, a tega se komaj zavedamo. Med vožnjo bodisi klepetamo, ali smo zatopljeni v svoje misli, poslušamo glasbo, še najmanj pa opazujemo nižave in višave, nanizane na obeh straneh poti, ki nas vodi k cilju. Tako prezremo

marsikaj, kar bi nas morda pritegnilo, vznemirilo in navdušilo. Ena takih prezrtih lepot je Vremščica.

dor skrene z avtoceste pri Senožečah in sledi smerokazom, je hitro na pravi poti. Lahko izbere večurno sprehajanje po eni od značilnih kraških planot, lahko pa se ustavi tudi v Centru za sonaravno rekultiviranje Vremščica (CSR), ki so ga pred desetimi leti ustanovili na Veterinarski fakulteti Univerze v Ljubljani. Ob vznožju planote so hlevi, kjer pozimi biva velika čreda ovac. Slučajni obiskovalci naj izberejo kolovoz, ki jih bo v slabi uri lagodne hoje mimo skoraj brezmejnih pašnikov pripeljal do mlekarne, okrepčevalnice. V resnici se območje Centra razteza na 360 hektarih, od katerih je preko 100 hektarov travnikov. Tista travišča, ki niso namenjena paši, so od pomladi do poletja lepša kot katerikoli okrasni vrt. To sicer velja za vse kraške suhe travnike, kakršni pokrivajo Vremščico, Kraški rob, Nanos in druge višave, ki segajo tja okoli 1000 metrov nad morje. Zaradi suhih rastišč se številnim vrstam trav tam pridružijo ducati cvetočih zelišč, med njimi potonike, perunike, svišči, zlati koren, preobjede, zvončice, narcise, nageljčki, lilije, čmerike, jesenčki in druge lepotice. Sonaravno gospodarjenje s prostorom omogoča, da kljub intenzivni paši stotin ovac to rastlinsko bogastvo ostaja, saj ga ne zatirajo prekomerno gnojenje, prepašenost ali kemična zaščitna sredstva. Prav nasprotno, med poglavitnimi cilji, zaradi katerih so ustanovili CSR, so

študije odnosov okolja in živali v visoko občutljivih kraških območjih, razvijanje ekstenzivnih sistemov ponovnega kultiviranja in oživljanja kraških območij s pomočjo živali, spremljanje njihovega zdravstvenega stanja, raziskave, kako se veterinarska zdravila izločajo z živalskimi iztrebki, pa tudi zmožnost sobivanja domačih in divjih živali na mejnih območjih. Med približno 450 ovcami, kolikor jih šteje osnovna čreda na Vremščici, prevladujejo ovce pasme istrska pramenka, nekaj pa je tudi predstavnic bovške in jezersko-solčavske pasme. Vsako zimo se skoti okoli 500 jagnjet, del tega prirastka pomladi čredo, večina pa gre pod nož ali pa k drugim rejcem. Ker predpisi zahtevajo določeno število živali na hektar pašnika, se na Vremščici pase tudi okoli 30 oslov in dober ducat konjev. S sirotko, ki ostaja pri predelavi ovčjega mleka v sir, se gosti manjša družina kraškopoljskih prašičev. Za to množico živali skrbi samo 5 ljudi. Ekipo pod vodstvom Andreja Škibina, dr. vet. med., sestavljajo sirar, ki iz približno 35.000 litrov ovčjega mleka pridela vsako leto okoli 7 ton sira in skute, ter trije skrbniki živali. Ekološka pridelava mleka in strokovno znanje sta prispevala k temu, da mnogi sladokusci v Sloveniji in bližnji Italiji vedo, kako kakovosten je ovčji sir z Vremščice. Izdelujejo ga

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{ Spoštljivo do narave }

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samo v času pašne sezone, torej od sredine maja do sredine septembra. Sir komaj utegnejo dozoriti, in kdor pride ponj v prvih dneh oktobra, pride zaman. Andrej Škibin je že sedmo leto srčno predan delu na Vremščici. V času jagnjitve ovac spi v zasilnem bivališču ob hlevih, saj se pogosto v eni noči skoti več ducatov jagnjet in neredko se kaj zaplete. Prav rojevanje mladičev je glavni razlog, da ovce prezimujejo v hlevih. Ostale živali (konji, osli, prašiči) namreč vse mrzle in snežene zime, ki jih začini kraška burja, preživljajo na prostem. Neukim meščanom bi se živali smilile, v resnici pa so bolj zdrave, odpornejše in lepše.

Kljub temu, da pastir vodi čredo ovac molznic po Vremščici in jim tako zagotavlja kar se da kakovostno pašo, se ovce vsak večer vrnejo v ogrado. Ta jih vsaj načeloma varuje pred napadi zveri, med katerimi je na prvem mestu volk. V minulih treh letih so kljub varnostnim ukrepom volkovi pokončali okoli 120 ovac. Hoja po Vremščici je učna ura botanike, zoologije in ekologije, hkrati pa odkrivanje prostranstva, v katerem pozabimo na »čare« življenja v mestu.

Tista travišča, ki niso namenjena paši, so od pomladi do poletja lepša kot katerikoli okrasni vrt.

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{ Vremščica }

{ Respectful Towards Nature }

Vremščica:

to Pasture with the Sheep Text and photography: Stane Sušnik

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he motorway to Slovenia’s coast leads us through a variety of landscapes, yet we hardly notice them. During the journey we chat, or are lost in our own thoughts, or listen to music, and we pay little attention to the lowlands and highlands on either side of the road leading to our destination. This means that we overlook many things that might attract us, excite us and fill us with enthusiasm. One such overlooked beauty is Vremščica. If you leave the motorway at Senožeče and follow the signposts, you are soon on the right road. You can choose to walk for hours across a typical karst plateau, or stop at the Centre for Sustainable Recultivation (CSR) founded 10 years ago by the Faculty of Veterinary Medicine at the University of Ljubljana. At the foot of the plateau are the sheds that house a large flock of sheep in winter. Chance visitors should follow the track that leads, in an easy walk of just under an hour, to the dairy and snack bar, past seemingly endless pastures. In fact the Centre covers an area of 360 hectares, of which over 100 hectares are pastureland. From spring to summer, those areas of grassland not used for pasture are more beautiful than any ornamental garden. This applies to all the dry karst meadows of the kind that cover Vremščica, the Karst Edge, Nanos and the other highland areas up to around 1,000 metres above sea level. Thanks to the dry habitats, the numerous grasses are joined by dozens of flowering plants, among them peonies, irises, gentians, asphodels, aconites, campanulas, daffodils, carnations, lilies, false helleborines and burning-bush. Sustainable management of the area means that despite the intensive grazing of hundreds of sheep, this wealth of flora survives, unaffected by excessive fertilisation, overgrazing or the use of chemical agents. Among the main objectives of the CSR, in fact, and one of the reasons why it was founded, are studies of relationships between environment and animals in highly sensitive karst areas, the development of extensive systems of recultivation and the revitalisation of karst areas with the help of animals, monitoring their state of health, research into how veterinary medicines are excreted in animal droppings, and also the capacity for coexistence of domestic animals and wild animals in border areas. Most of the roughly 450 sheep in the basic flock on Vremščica are of the Istrian Pramenka breed, while there are also some representatives of the Bovec and Jezersko-Solčava breeds. Each winter around 500 lambs

From spring to summer, those areas of grassland not used for pasture are more beautiful than any ornamental garden. are born. Some of these serve to rejuvenate the flock, while the majority are slaughtered or go to other farmers. Since regulations require a specific number of animals per hectare of pasture, there are also around 30 donkeys and over a dozen horses grazing on Vremščica. A small family of Krškopolje (or Blackbelted) pigs are eager consumers of the whey that is a by-product of the process of turning sheep’s milk into cheese. All these animals are looked after by just five people. The team, led by veterinary surgeon Andrej Škibin, consists of a cheesemaker, who every year produces around seven tonnes of cheese and curd cheese from approximately 35,000 litres of sheep’s milk, and three animal keepers. Thanks to organic milk production and expert knowledge, many gourmets in Slovenia and nearby Italy have begun to discover just how good sheep’s cheese from Vremščica can be. The cheese is only made during the grazing season, in other words from mid-May to mid-September. The cheese barely has time to ripen before it is all sold, and anyone who comes at the beginning of October hoping to buy some will have a wasted journey. Andrej Škibin has been working enthusiastically on Vremščica for seven years. In the lambing season he sleeps in a temporary shelter next to the sheep sheds. It is not uncommon for several dozen lambs to be born in a single night, and there are frequently complications. Lambing is the main reason why sheep spend the winter in sheds. The other animals (the horses, the donkeys and the pigs) spend all their winters – cold and snowy, and seasoned by the icy Bora blowing over the Karst – in the open air. Ignorant city folk feel sorry for the animals but in fact this makes them healthier, hardier and more beautiful. Although the shepherd leads his flock of dairy sheep right across Vremščica to guarantee them the best possible grazing, every evening the sheep return to the fold. This protects them – at least in theory – from the attacks of wild animals, foremost among which is the wolf. In the past three years wolves have carried off around 120 sheep, despite the security measures. A walk across Vremščica is a lesson in botany, zoology and ecology all rolled into one, and at the same time the discovery of a vast area in which we can forget about the “charms” of life in the city.

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Bohinjski kot

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{ Spoštljivo do narave }

o, pa gremo danes v Bohinj. Zakaj pa tja? Na vikend za dva dni, na počitnice, plavat, hodit, letet s padalom, veslat, kar tako postopat, dobro kmečko pit in jest, se sončit ali pa namakat v dež, ker dež ima v Bohinju mlade, to je znano. A nič čez dež, bohinjski dež je prav poseben,

treba ga je jemati s spoštovanjem in občudovanjem, saj je to od vseh dežjev najbolj dež, najbolj vztrajen, najbolj moker, najbolj deževen in popolnoma bohinjski, to mu daje vrednost in lepoto. Če bi bili Bohinjci pametni, bi ga prodajali ... Ko vetrovi odnesejo oblake in se povsod drugod zjasni, se nekaj oblakov zatakne med bohinjske gore, ne morejo nikamor in odtakajo vodovje, ko sonce sije že povsod drugod. A ne se bati bohinjskega dežja, ta je tu doma kot krave, sir in planšarji.

Besedilo: Mate Dolenc

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Fotografije: Žiga Koritnik

ohinj je dolina, ki so jo ustvarjalci sveta skrili med planine. Izdolbel jo je ledenik in pustil za sabo jezero in slap Savico. Človek ga je odkril nekje v halštatski dobi, ko je iskal železo za svoje meče in posode. Pokazale so mu ga strele, ki jih železo privlači, zato v Bohinju še danes treska in se bliska, da se dan naredi sredi noči. A fužin ni več – razen osrednje vasi zgornje bohinjske doline Stare Fužine, ki leži med Fužinskim poljem in Uskovnico. Tja gremo v sirarski muzej, nazaj pa k Mihovcu na klobaso v zaseki ali krožnik jedi »na žlico«. Na drugi strani mostu čez Savico pa k Ančki, ki ji rečemo tudi »parlament«, saj se tam zbirajo domorodci in parlamentirajo. Tam vse zveš in se za vse zmeniš: kdo ti bo zamenjal streho, kdo popravil avto, kdo zrihtal slamo in les in drva, kje boš dobil svež sir, skuto, sadjevec, klobaso v zaseki in mohant. Kdo je umrl, kdo se je rodil, kdo si je odrezal prst, ko je klobaso rezal. A kaj je mohant? Beseda je čudna. To je poleg kvargljev najbolj smrdljiv sir na svetu – na bohinjski način obdelano mleko, nekaj med sirom in skuto. Ni vključen v vsakdanjo trgovino, nikjer ga ne prodajajo, niti na kravjem balu ne, in izven bohinjskega kota ga skoraj nihče ne mara, ker – kot pravijo – preveč smrdi. Ali pa diši? Enkrat letno se zberejo Bohinjci v

»parlamentu«, vsak prinese svoj mohant na poskušnjo, odvijejo ga iz povoščenega papirja (nekoč) in iz polovinila (danes) in ga poskušajo. Takrat vsi, ki niso iz Bohinja, zapustijo krčmo. Če bi ga eno kilo zakopali nekje ob jezeru v zemljo, bi dobili atomske toplice kot v slavni knjigi Klapka Jeroma Trije možje v čolnu, ko so v mivko na plaži zakopali kvarglje. A je res zdravilen – odplakne zgago iz grla, pomiri drisko in zakrpa luknjo v želodcu. Jaz, ki že dolgo hodim v Bohinj, si ga vtrem v brke, da ga ves dan voham, ko sedim na terasi in gledam dež. Bohinjski dež z mohantom je specialiteta, za katero še Bohinjci komaj vedo. Bohinja se ne da videti od nikoder, razen iz letala. Gledano iz zraka, se jezero blešči kot biser med gorami. Malo nazaj se blešči tudi Blejsko jezero, ki mu v precej banalnem jeziku turističnih vodičev tudi rečejo »biser Slovenije«; kaj je zdaj bolj biser, Bohinj ali Bled? Pa imamo še Lipico, Piran in Ptuj in še marsikaj in za vsakega posebej piše v vodiču, da je »biser«. Po teh biserih smo bogataši. In v pogorju med Bohinjem in Triglavom je še gora Bogatin, pod katero je po legendi skrit zaklad, ki ga čuva sam hudič. Večkrat se nam zazdi, da vse naše zaklade čuvajo hudiči. Nekdo nam jih mora, ko jih sami ne znamo. Nekoliko jih pa vendar čuvamo – zato imamo Triglavski narodni park. Bohinj je sredi parka, ki se razteza daleč čez gore, na eni strani tolminske, bovške, trentarske doline, na drugi tja nad Jesenice s Triglavom na vrhu. Tudi Zakon o Triglavskem narodnem parku imamo. Nastal je leta 1924 in še zdaj nastaja, vsakih nekaj let drugačen, enkrat bolj, drugič manj skregan z zdravo pametjo. Morda nam ga piše sam hudič – in enkrat mu mora uspeti. Res pa je – v Bohinju ne sme počiti puška. Srne, mufloni in gamsi lahko pridejo iz svojih višav do jezera in v njem lahko varno pijejo vodo. Še medveda, ki je tacal po Ukancu in prevračal kante za smeti, so ustrelili z uspavalnim nabojem in odpeljali nazaj čez hribe, od koder je prišel. Lahko pa lovimo ribe, ko je ribolov odprt. Če gremo v jezero s podvodno masko, bomo videli več rib kot v morju. Klene, postrvi jezerke, postrvi amerikanke, zlatovčice, ostriže in menke. Tudi o somih se govori – am-

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{ Bohinjski kot }

{ Spoštljivo do narave }

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pak samo govori. Še največ zvečer Pri Ančki – v »parlamentu« – ob sadjevcu in pivu. Pravega soma imamo v Blejskem jezeru in je res tam, saj so ga posneli s kamero. V Bohinjskem pa lahko naletimo na bohinjsko jezersko pošast. Na bohinjsko Nessie. Pojdimo zgodaj ob zori, ko se jutranje meglice dvigajo iz vode, s čolnom na jezero in se plazimo ob obali pod starimi trohnečimi debli, pa jo bomo videli, če bomo prav razpoloženi. V bohinjski Nessie se skriva še neodkrita turistična znamenitost. Danes povezujemo Bohinj z Bledom, a prvi naseljenci so prišli v Bohinj s tolminske strani. Tudi stoletja kasneje je bil Bohinj bolj povezan s Tolminom kot z Bledom. Tolminci so preko Baškega sedla tovorili v Bohinj vino, sol in olje, Bohinjci pa v nasprotno smer izdelke iz železa in živino. Bohinjski in tolminski sir sta brata. Posebno, kadar sta narejena iz madžarskega mleka. Vendar o tem raje molčimo! Dejstvo je, da so krave tod in tam; in če so krave, je tudi mleko. In če je mleko, je sir. In je doma narejen sir. In mu lahko rečemo domač. In pristen. Nekoč v davnih časih so si Tolminci in Bohinjci izmenjavali kri (danes bi rekli gene); deklice in dečke. Bohinj je bil zaprt kot, vsi so si bili v sorodu, in da ne bi prihajalo do pretiranega krvoskrunstva, so si izmenjavali otroke. Bohinjski deček na tolminsko, tolminska deklica v Bohinj. A brž ko je prišla v Bohinj, je menjala spol ... oh, ne zares, samo z jezikom. Bohinjske ženske govorijo v moškem spolu: »S´m šou, s´m krave gnou ...« Trdo življenje je bilo v planini, pa je morala biti tudi ženska dec. V tistem času je do Bohinja vodila samo komaj prehodna kozja steza. Zdaj se skozi sotesko z imenom Soteska, po kateri odteka Sava Bohinjka, z Bleda pripeljemo z vlakom po železnici ali pa po cesti. Mestoma je soteska tako ozka, da se obe vzporedno komaj prerineta skozi. Kam to sploh pelje, se vprašaš, ko se soteska oža in se hribi sklanjajo nad cesto in progo. Železnica se takoj za Bohinjsko Bistrico zarije v goro, izgine v luknjo, v predor, dolg 6336 metrov in star 108 let. Ko pridemo na drugi strani ven, ni nikjer več Bohinja, ampak zavohamo morje. Avto lahko naložimo na tovorni vagon in se peljemo v sto let starem vagonu na primorsko stran, zvečer pa na enak način nazaj v Bohinj. Cesta, po kateri smo prišli skozi Sotesko, pa se skozi Bohinjsko Bistrico, ki je bohinjski »City«, nadaljuje ob jezeru in konča v Ukancu – »u« koncu. Tam je konec dolinskega Bohinja in gre samo še navzgor in peš, na Komno, Komarčo, Krn, Triglavska jezera in Triglav, v svet rože mogote, tudi triglavske rože, legendarnega zelišča, ki zdravi vse bolezni in vrača življenje.

Bohinj Park Hotel.

Dokler ne prideš do njega, je neopazen, tako kot Bohinj sam. No, pa gremo danes v Bohinj, v ta skriti kot, ki ga vidiš samo iz zraka, tako zrinjenega in stisnjenega med skalnate vršace. Kaj tam počet? Na vikend, na počitnice, na kravji bal in kmečko ohcet, plavat, plezat, jest in pit, postopat, se sončit in namakat. Sploh pa nam ni treba čisto noter, v kot in sploh ne v Ukanc, »čist na konc«. V Bohinjski Bistrici, ki je »City«, saj ima tri trgovine, tri gostilne in tri bifeje ter seveda županstvo, je vzporedni Bohinj: Bohinj Park Hotel. Dokler ne prideš do njega, je neopazen, tako kot Bohinj sam. Ko si v njem, si v vzporednem Bohinju, v Butiku dobrega počutja. Tukaj dobro ješ in piješ, plavaš, se sončiš, te masirajo in obsevajo in strežejo »spred in zad«. Za videt bohinjsko Nessie pa moraš le do jezera; in za vohat mohant v Staro Fužino. Krave se pasejo tudi v bližini. Bohinjski dež pa gledaš skozi steklo.

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Bohinj Text: Mate Dolenc

Photography: Žiga Koritnik

o, let’s go to Bohinj. Bohinj? What’s that? Where’s that? And why should we go there? For the weekend, for a holiday, to swim, to walk, to paraglide, to row a boat or paddle a canoe, to laze about, to drink and eat hearty rustic fare, to get some sun or get soaked in the rain, because it is well known that Bohinj gets a lot of rain. Nothing against rain, however. Bohinj rain is very special and needs to be treated with respect and admiration, since of all rains this is the best rain: the most persistent, the wettest and the rainiest, and totally “Bohinj”, which gives it a special value and beauty. If the people of Bohinj were smart they would bottle it and sell it... When the winds sweep the clouds away and the day starts to clear up, a few clouds get stuck behind the mountains of Bohinj and, having nowhere to go, release great quantities of water when everywhere else the sun is shin-

ing. But do not be afraid of the Bohinj rain, it is as much a part of this place as cows, cheese and Alpine herdsmen. Bohinj is a valley that the creators of the world hid among the mountains. It was carved out by a glacier, which left behind it the lake and the Savica waterfall. Man discovered it around the time of the Hallstatt culture (Early Iron Age), when he was looking for iron for his swords and cooking pots. He was guided here by bolts of lightning, which were attracted by the iron in the ground. Thunderstorms are still common in Bohinj, turning night into day. But there are no longer any forges in Bohinj – except in the name of the main village in the upper part of the valley, Stara Fužina (Old Forge), lying between Fužinsko Polje and Uskovnica. You can go there to visit the cheesemaking museum and then head back to the Gostilna Mihovc for sausage in zaseka (minced lard) or a bowl of soup or stew. Or across the bridge over the Savica to Ančka’s, also known as parliament, because this is where the locals gather and talk. Here you can find out everything and arrange anything: who can replace your roof, who can fix your car, who can sort you out with straw and timber and firewood, where you can get fresh cheese, curds, fruit brandy, sausage in zaseka and mohant. Who’s died, who’s been born and who cut his finger off when slicing sausage. But what is this strange word mohant? It is, apart from kvargelj, the smelliest cheese in the world. It is milk processed the Bohinj way, somewhere between cheese and

{ Bohinj }

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curds. You won’t find it in a shop, it isn’t sold anywhere, not even at the Cow Ball, and outside the valley almost no one likes it. Too smelly, they say. Or should that be fragrant? Once a year, the people of Bohinj meet in their parliament. Everyone brings his own mohant to sample. They unwrap it from its waxed paper (once upon a time) or plastic wrapping (nowadays) and taste it. At that point, everyone who is not from Bohinj leaves the premises. If we were to bury a kilo of it somewhere on the lake shore, we could have an atomic spa, like in Jerome K. Jerome’s famous book Three Men in a Boat when they bury the cheeses on a beach. But it really is medicinal – it washes away heartburn, calms diarrhoea and patches holes in the stomach. I who have been coming to Bohinj for a long time like to rub it into my moustache so that I can smell it all day as I sit on the terrace and look at the rain. Bohinj rain with mohant is a speciality known only to a few, even in Bohinj. Bohinj cannot be seen from anywhere, except from an aeroplane. Seen from the air, the lake gleams like a pearl among the mountains. A little way away is another gleaming pearl, Lake Bled, which in the banal language of tourist guidebooks is always referred to as the “pearl of Slovenia”. But which is more of a pearl: Bohinj or Bled? Then we have Lipica, Piran at Ptuj and many others, each of them described in the guidebook as a “pearl”. With all these pearls we must be rich. And in the mountain range between Bohinj and Triglav there is even a mountain called Bogatin (Rich Man) beneath which, legend has it, is a secret treasure guarded by the devil himself. Sometimes it seems as though all our treasures are guarded by devils. Well someone has to guard them, if we are unable to. We do guard some of them, though – that is why we have the Triglav National Park. Bohinj lies in the middle of the park, which extends far over the mountains, on one side into the Tolmin, Bovec and Trenta valleys and, on the other, up above Jesenice, with Triglav at the top. We even have a special law, the Triglav National Park Act. This was passed in 1924 and is still being amended today, different every few years, sometimes more and sometimes less at odds with common sense. Perhaps it is the devil himself who is writing it for us. He’s sure to get it right one day. One thing is certain – no rifles are allowed in Bohinj. The deer, mouflon and chamois can come down from their heights to the lake and drink the water there in safety. Even the bear that lumbered through Ukanc upsetting the rubbish bins was shot with a tranquiliser dart and carried back over the hills to where he came from. Fishing is allowed, however. If you go into the lake with a diving mask you will see more fish than in the sea. You will see chub, lake trout, rainbow trout, char, perch and burbot. There is even talk of wels catfish – but it is only talk. Especially in the evening at Ančka’s, in “parliament”, over fruit brandy and beer. Wels catfish do live in Lake Bled and have actually been filmed there. In Lake Bohinj, however, you can encounter the Lake Bohinj Monster. Bohinj’s Nessie. You need to set off at dawn, as the morning mist rises from the water, take a boat onto the lake and creep along the shore beneath the old, rotting trunks, and you will see it if you’re in the right mood. Bohinj’s Nessie is an as yet undiscovered tourist attraction. These days we tend to link Bohinj with Bled, but the first settlers came to Bohinj from the Tolmin side. Even centuries later, Bohinj

was still more closely connected to Tolmin than to Bled. The people of Tolmin transported wine, salt and oil over Baško Sedlo to Bohinj, while the people of Bohinj sent ironware and livestock in the opposite direction. Bohinj cheese and Tolmin cheese are brothers. Especially when they’re made from Hungarian milk. But we won’t talk about that! The fact is, there are cows here and there; and if there are cows, there is also milk. And if there is milk, there is cheese. And it is cheese made at home. And we can call it home-made. And genuine. Many years ago the people of Tolmin and Bohinj used to swap blood (today we would say genes): girls and boys. Bohinj was a closed valley, everyone was related to everyone else, so in order to avoid too much interbreeding they used to swap children. A Bohinj boy to Tolmin, and a Tolmin girl to Bohinj. The latter, as soon as she arrived in Bohinj, would have a sex change... not literally, but in linguistic terms. The women of Bohinj use masculine verb endings when they talk. Life was hard in the mountains, and even the girls had to be boys. In those days the only way to get to Bohinj was via a barely passable goat track. Today you can get there from Bled by train and by road through a gorge called Soteska (meaning “gorge”), through which the Sava Bohinjka flows. In places the gorge is so narrow that there is barely room for road and railway to squeeze through together. Where is it taking me, you ask yourself, as the gorge grows ever narrower and the mountains tower above the road and the railway line. Just past Bohinjska Bistrica the railway buries itself in the mountain, disappearing into a hole: a tunnel that is 6,336 metres long and 108 years old. When it comes out on the other side, Bohinj is nowhere to be seen and you can smell the sea. You can load your car onto a freight truck and ride in 100-year-old garage to the Primorska side, returning to Bohinj the same way in the evening. The road that brought you through Soteska passes through Bohinjska Bistrica, the “metropolis” of the Bohinj area, continues along the lake and ends in Ukanc – u koncu – “at the end”. This is where the valley part of Bohinj ends. From here on, the only way is up, on foot, to Komna, Komarča, Krn, the Triglav lakes and Triglav itself, to the Land of the Magic Flower, also known as the Triglav Rose, a legendary plant that cures all ills and restores life. So, let’s go to Bohinj, that secret valley you can only see from the air, wedged in among the rocky peaks. To do what? To spend the weekend, or a holiday, to go to the Cow Ball or a rustic wedding, to swim, to climb, to eat and drink, to laze about, to get some sun and get soaked in the rain. You don’t even have to go all the way in into the valley, and certainly not all the way to the end, to Ukanc. In Bohinjska Bistrica, a “metropolis” by virtue of its three shops, three pubs and three snack bars, and of course the mayor’s office, is a parallel Bohinj: the Bohinj Park Hotel. You don’t see it until you get there, just like Bohinj itself. When you’re there, you are in a parallel Bohinj, a “Boutique of WellBeing”. Here you can eat well and drink well, swim and sunbathe, get a massage, top up your tan and be waited on hand and foot. But to see Bohinj’s Nessie you need to go down to the lake, and to catch a whiff of mohant you must visit Stara Fužina. Cows graze nearby. And you can watch the Bohinj rain through the window.

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The Bohinj Park Hotel. You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see it until you get there, just like Bohinj itself.

{ Bohinj }

{ Spoštljivo do narave }

Bohinj Park Eko Hotel – ustvarjen z naravo izvodnja energije se imenuje kogeneracija. Dve napravi, ki ju poganja utekočinjen naftni plin (UNP), sočasno proizvajata električno in toplotno energijo. Električna energija skrbi za poganjanje toplotnih črpalk v hotelu in za celotno napajanje hotela ter vodnega parka obenem. Toplota, ki se sprošča ob proizvodnji električne energije, pa se uporabi za gretje bazenov. Takšen sistem ima zaradi uporabe preostale toplote izjemno visok celotni izkoristek – med 70 in 90 odstotkov. Z istočasno proizvodnjo toplotne in električne energije pa se prihrani tudi do 30 odstotkov primarne energije v primerjavi z ločeno proizvodnjo. Celotni hotel je ogrevan na principu nizkotemperaturnega režima – s talno kurjavo in hladilno-grelnimi gredami. Talna kurjava zagotavlja udoben občutek, medtem ko posebne grelno-hladilne grede s svojim neslišnim in energijsko učinkovitim delovanjem močno presegajo sicer večinoma uporabljene klasične sisteme prezračevanja in klimatizacije.

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»S

vet je lep,« pravijo uslužbenci bohinjskega hotela Park. »V našem hotelu smo za učinkovito izrabo energije naredili tako rekoč vse, kar je danes tehnološko izvedljivo. Hotel je zgrajen z veliko pozornostjo do okolja in je trenutno eden najbolj naprednih in energijsko varčnih hotelov v centralnem evropskem prostoru,« še menijo. Poglejmo nekaj učinkovitih okoljevarstvenih rešitev, zaradi katerih lahko hotel mirno uvrstimo med ekohotele.

Lastna energetska vrtina V neposredni bližini hotela so naredili energetsko vodno vrtino. Ta voda s toplotnimi črpalkami služi za ogrevanje sanitarne vode in objekta. Ko je geotermalna voda izkoriščena, je ne spustijo nazaj, temveč jo delno uporabijo za izplakovanje sanitarij. Šele takšno – popolnoma izkoriščeno – spustijo z odplakami vred v kanalizacijo. Toplo sanitarno vodo iz tušev in umivalnikov prav tako izkoristijo. Topla voda se zbira v posebnih rezervoarjih, kjer ji toplotne črpalke odvzamejo preostalo toploto in ohlajeno spustijo v kanalizacijo. Voda iz vrtine pa služi tudi hlajenju poleti, saj se osiromašeno (ko ji je odvzeta toplota v toplotnih črpalkah) pošlje naravnost v hladilne grede, ki hladijo hotelske prostore.

Bazeni v vodnem parku kot ogromen hranilnik toplote Park Hotel Bohinj ima tudi lastno energetsko postajo. Sočasno se namreč proizvajata električna energija in toplota. Takšna sočasna pro-

Varujmo okolje, ne oddajajmo v pranje čistih brisač Na tone perila, ki se tedensko perejo v hotelskih in zunanjih čistilnicah, porabijo ogromne količine električne in toplotne energije, praškov in drugih kemikalij. Kljub temu da so vsa čistila biološko razgradljiva, to še vseeno ne pomeni, da so ekološko neoporečna – le njihov negativni učinek na okolje je manjši. Mnogi ali pa celo večina gostov ne jemlje tovrstnih priporočil dovolj resno, zato je v Bohinj Park Hotelu zagotovljena čimbolj učinkovita izraba energije. Najmodernejše, računalniško vodene in z visoko tehnologijo podprte naprave v pralnici so energijsko varčne in okolju prijaznejše. Ker pa se pri pranju in likanju sprošča velika količina toplote, je v hotelu prav za pralnico namenjena zmogljiva toplotna črpalka, ki oddano toploto – namesto, da bi šla »v zrak« – odvzame in preusmeri v sistem za dogrevanje tople sanitarne vode.

Stavba kot topel plašč Stene Bohinj Park Hotela so nadstandardno izolirane in tako karseda omejujejo uhajanje toplote. Poleg sodobnih izolacijskih materialov so na celotnem objektu montirana tudi stekla z najnižjim faktorjem Ug. S tem je zagotovljena minimalna prehodnost in izguba toplote skozi plašč objekta. Objekt prekriva prva tovrstna streha pri nas. V celoti je namreč izdelana iz lesa in drugih naravnih materialov, v posebni zaprti kompaktni sendvič izvedbi iz gotovih plošč.

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{ Respectful Towards Nature }

Bohinj Park Eco Hotel – Created with Nature “T

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he world is beautiful,” say the staff of the Bohinj Park Hotel. “In our hotel, we have done practically everything possible with today’s technology to ensure the efficient use of energy. The hotel has been built with great respect for the environment and we believe that it is currently one of the most advanced and energy-saving hotels in central Europe.” Let us take a look at some of the effective environmentally friendly solutions that place this hotel firmly in the eco-hotel class.

Energy well The hotel has its own energy well. Water from this well passes through heat pumps and provides the hotel with hot water and heating. Once the geothermal water has been used, it does not return to the well but is used to flush toilets. Only then – once it has been fully used – does it flow into the sewers. Hot water from showers and washbasins is also used. Warm water is collected in special reservoirs, where heat pumps extract the remaining heat before letting the cold water drain into the sewage system. Water from the well also serves to cool the building in summer. Once the heat has been removed from it by heat pumps, it flows straight into cooling beams that keep the hotel at a comfortable temperature.

Pools in the water park as a giant heat saver The Bohinj Park Hotel also has its own power station simultaneously producing electricity and heat. This form of simultaneous energy production is called cogeneration. Two plants running on liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) simultaneously produce electricity and heat. The same electricity serves to power the hotel’s heat pumps and provides all the power for the hotel and the water park. The heat released during the production of electricity is used to heat the pools. Thanks to the use of the remaining heat, such a system has an extremely high overall yield of between 70% and 90%. Cogeneration of heat and electricity also allows a saving of up to 30% of primary energy in comparison to separate production. The entire hotel is heated on the low-temperature regime principal – with underfloor heating and cooling/heating beams in the ceiling. Underfloor heating ensures the comfort of guests, while the special cooling/

heating beams, with their silent and energy-efficient operation, are far superior to the traditional ventilation and air conditioning systems used in most hotels.

Protect the environment: don’t send clean towels to the laundry The tons of bed linen washed every week in hotel laundries and off-site consume enormous quantities of electricity and heat, washing powder and other chemicals. Even if all the cleaning agents are biodegradable, this does not mean that they are environmentally irreproachable – merely that their negative impact on the environment is less. Since, however, many or perhaps even most guests do not take such recommendations seriously enough, the Bohinj Park Hotel has come up with a way to guarantee the most efficient energy use possible. The very latest high-tech computer-controlled washing machines in the hotel laundry are thriftier and more eco-friendly than conventional machines. And since washing and ironing releases a large quantity of heat, the laundry is fitted with an efficient heat pump that extracts the heat that is given off and – instead of releasing it into the atmosphere – directs it into the system for heating water.

A building like a warm overcoat The walls of the Bohinj Park Hotel are specially insulated in order to reduce heat loss to a minimum. Modern insulation materials are used throughout the building and glass with the lowest possible U-factor is used in the windows. This helps keep heat loss through the skin of the building to a minimum. The roof of hotel is the first of its kind in Slovenia. It is entirely made of wood and other natural materials, forming a special sealed compact sandwich of panels.

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»Ljubljana je vriskala« Besedilo: Tomaž Pavlin

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Zgodba iz zgodovine nogometa

oleti zna biti v Ljubljani pasje vroče. Človek išče senco, hlad, in če ju najde nekje na gostilniškem vrtu, se ob ledeno mrzli pijači zlekne na stol, vzame v roke dnevni časopis, obrne list, naredi požirek in – šok! Iz ležernega sedenja ga dvigne senzacionalna nostalgična novica: V Ljubljani bo spet derbi. Uh, to se mora videti!

orda je bilo tako, morda je Ljubljančane konec junija 1941, dobra dva meseca po napadu na Jugoslavijo in razkosanju Slovenije ter vdoru druge svetovne vojne na slovenska tla, šokirala novica, da se bosta v začetku avgusta 1941 ponovno pomerila Primorje in Ilirija. Obudila se je nostalgija dobrih starih derbijev, ki jih v Ljubljani ni bilo že dolgih pet let, in v spomin se je priklicala pesmica:

»Vsa Ljubljana se vznemirja, kar je fantov in deklet, ko Primorje in Ilir'ja brcat gresta nogomet.«

Fotografije: arhiv Fakultete za šport in arhiv Muzeja športa

Iz časovne distance gledano je to sila zanimiv in intriganten dogodek. Je bilo dovoljenje tekme morda simbolen obračun s pravkar premagano jugoslovansko-slovensko dobo in uvod v vzpostavljanje novega pod italijanskim fašizmom gospodujočega športa? Tekma je bila enkratna, takrat in nikoli več. Po njej je novi fašistični čas obračunal s Primorjem,

ki ga odtlej ne najdemo več med aktivnimi klubi. Zakaj? Ljubljansko Primorje je bilo klub primorskih emigrantov, ki so po prvi svetovni vojni in okupaciji ter priključitvi Primorske Kraljevini Italiji prebežali v jugoslovansko državo. Imel je črno-bele barve s tržaško rdečo helebardo in ohranjal nacionalni spomin na izgubljeno Primorje. Na drugi strani je bila ljubljanska 'purgerska' gospodična mična zeleno-bela Ilirija. Plod ljubljanskega hotenja in želenja po nogometu za razliko od tržaškogoriških prišlekov. Med njima se je vnela bitka za mesto prvega, ki je Ljubljančane vnela, jih čustveno podžgala in delila v dva športna tabora. In – prišel je ta dan, dan zimzelenega derbija: nedelja, 3. avgusta 1941. Najmanj dva tisoč gledalcev, je zapisal časopis Jutro, si je ogledalo tekmi starih in mladih generacij Primorja in Ilirije. Zadnjič v stoletju so se pomerili in se razšli. Nekateri v ilegalo, drugi v partizane, nekateri tudi v kolaboracijo, nekaj jih je šlo v vsakdanje življenje pod okupacijo, čakajoč na konec vojne. V derbiju »stare garde« je slavila Ilirija, in to po zaslugi še malo pred tem aktivnega Sandija Laha, ki je v letih pred drugo vojno igral v beograjskem BASK-u. Po nemškem napadu na Jugoslavijo se je vrnil v Ljubljano, pozneje pa odšel v partizane. Sandi je bil nogometna avtoriteta druge polovice tridesetih let, igral je v napadu in slovel po dobrem strelu. In s svojimi streli je tudi odločil derbi, kajti večini stare garde se je poznalo, da so že zaključili s kariero. Nasprotno je med mladimi zmagalo Primorje in rezultat obeh tekem je bil neodločen. Pošteno. Odšli so v zgodovino, sledeč generacijam, ki so malo pred njimi zaorale v nogometno ledino na Slovenskem. A kako se je sploh začelo, kdo je bil kriv, da danes sledimo slovenskim fantom na poti v južno Afriko na svetovno prvenstvo, ki je bilo mnogim slovenskim generacijam nedosegljivo? Dokler smo namreč brcali v južnoslovanski skupnosti, je bil preboj v reprezentanco zelo težak. Sledenje začetkom nas popelje na prelom 19. stoletja, ko se je mladina spoznala z usnjeno žogo z dušo in se navdušila nad novo igro: footballom. Novo igro so oblikovali Angleži, preko njih in športnih anglofilov pa se je igra

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{ Zgodba iz zgodovine nogometa }

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razširila tudi v srednjeevropski prostor in k nam. Že konec 19. stoletja je bil v Ljubljani nogometni klub, a je pozneje zamrl. Zato pa so nogomet, tako poročajo šolska poročila, igrali mnogi dijaki v večjih krajih na Slovenskem in si oblikovali dijaška moštva. Iz leta 1925 beležimo lep spomin Rudolfa Kropivnika na začetke dijaškega nogometa tiste generacije, ki je bila pozneje nosilka ljubljanskega nogometa. Zanje usodni dogodki so se po njegovem videnju dogodili leta 1906, »ko še naša bela Ljubljana ni štela svojih klubov na pare, ko še ni bilo zvez in podzvez, ko so naši današnji 'old-boys' še nosili kratke hlačice. Bili smo študentki v prvih početkih naše latinske karijere, vezani na stroga disciplinarna pravila in še strožje besede in lineacije naših konservativnih očetov. 'Sport' je obstojal le pri obligatnih (predpisanih – op. p.) šolskih igrah pod nadzorstvom profesorja … Takrat je počila bomba.« Nekega dne so nadebudni gimnazijski prvošolci prišli na igrišče in videli, kako se je sredi travnika vrtelo in skakalo nekaj kolegov iz nemškega oddelka gimnazije. Od enega do drugega so brcali debelo kroglo, »in kadar je padla v lužo, je poškropila nerodne 'brcače' in na njej so se poznale lise, liki, kontinenti naše oble. Oj čudo čudovito!« Radovednost jih je premamila. Približali so se in uzrli debelo napihnjeno kroglo iz usnja. »Iz česa neki je? ... Napihnjeno usnje? Ne more biti.« – »Duša je notri«, pravi nekdo. – »Torej kot človek: duša in telo!« 'Čudo čudovito' jih je popolnoma prevzelo in kmalu so tudi oni znali igrati z napihnjenim usnjem z dušo in telesom. Vendar niso bili edini. Spomladi 1907 je »brcala« ljubljanska mladež »že vsepovprek«, seveda previdno, saj je bila žoga za mnoge starše in moraliste pohujšljiva. In kdor bi se hotel v nogometu izpopolniti, ta bi trčil ob »disciplinarni red« in profesorje, ki »so seveda bili proti vsaki novotariji. Posebno proti tej hribovski igri, kjer se riskira noge in glavo in, ojoj! – obleko in drage čevlje. Anatema (izključitev – op. p.) je zadel vse brcače. 'Karcerji' (disciplinske kazni – op. p.) so peli in 'primerni' redi in doma – palica.« A dijaki se niso dali in se spomladi 1908 povezali v dijaški klub Hermes, tokrat z dovoljenjem šolskih oblasti. Sedaj so lahko igrali in prišlo je do prvih tekem, najprej z nemškimi sosedi v Ljubljani, v začetku maja 1911 pa so gostili podobno moštvo Studentesca Sportiva iz Trsta. Rezultat je bil neodločen, vendar pa je bila velika zmaga organiziranje in igranje javne tekme. »Ljubljana je vriskala,« je zapisal komentator. Kaj pa študenti? No, ti so se z nogometom v živo soočili v mestih svojega študija, saj se je nogomet v začetku 20. stoletja že dodobra razširil po Evropi. V Pragi, kjer je študiralo vse več Slovencev, je npr. slovela Slavija, ki je pred prvo vojno igrala tudi že prijateljske tekme proti angle-

škim klubom. Igrati proti očetom igre, no, to je pa že bilo nekaj. In o teh tekmah so po Ljubljani krožile senzacionalne zgodbice, »kake da so bile tekme z Angleži, kako so bežali posamezni golmani iz svojih vrat, ker niso hoteli več loviti žog, katere je skozi vrata pošiljal znameniti Konšek, ker so bili streli tako močni, da sta padla žoga in vratar skozi vrata«. In praška Slavija, resda češka, a ker je bila slovanska, je bila tudi naša, je bila vzor ljubljanskim nogometnim ljubiteljem, ki so se maja 1911, le dva dni po nogometni tekmi ljubljanskih dijakov s tržaškimi, zbrali in ustanovili slovenski nogometni klub Ilirija. V klub so kmalu prestopili dijaki Hermesa in Ilirija je hitro postala ljubljanski nogometni zaščitni znak. Odmevna je bila njihova tekma s praško Slavijo leta 1913 in še bolj zmaga nad zagrebškim HAŠK-om jeseni istega leta, saj je HAŠK veljal za najboljši južnoslovanski klub. Podobna zgodba je bila v Gorici, kjer so dijaki po zaključku šolanja ustanovili nogometni klub Jugoslavija in oba kluba sta bila glavna predstavnika slovenskega nogometa pred prvo svetovno vojno. Pa je prišla prva vojna. Namesto žog granate, namesto zelenih polj fronte in jarki in marsikdo se ni vrnil. Preživeli so se v Ljubljani zbrali spomladi 1919 in oživili Ilirijo. Glede na to, da so v Ljubljano prebežali mnogi Primorci, so se v Ilirijo vključili nekateri bivši igralci goriške Jugoslavije in tudi Tržačani. Ko pa so Primorci v Ljubljani 1920. ustanovili svoje Primorje, so Primorci prestopili in sredi dvajsetih let se je že vzpostavil ljubljanski derbi Ilirija : Primorje, ki pa ni bil le ljubljanski, bil je kar slovenski, saj kdor je v derbiju slavil, je bil običajno tudi slovenski prvak in se uvrstil v finalno skupino za naslov jugoslovanskega prvaka. Njuni derbiji z večtisočglavim obiskom so dobili mesto tudi v radijskem programu, prvič spomladi 1929. Nogomet je v dvajsetih letih 20. stoletja postal po številu klubov in nogometašev prvi šport, pozneje pa mu je ob bok stopilo smučanje. Prav tako se je razširil med vse sloje in v slovenski ligi so bili tako meščanski kot delavski klubi, a zaščitni znak sta bila Ilirija in Primorje, v začetku tridesetih let pa tudi Maribor. Sredi tridesetih se je nogometna sekcija Primorja preimenovala v Ljubljano, Ilirijani pa so svojo razpustili in prestopili v Ljubljano, ki je tedaj zastopala slovenski nogomet v jugoslovanski ligi. S tem je bilo konec derbijev, vse do avgusta 1941, ko je bila Ljubljana ponovno vznemirjena. Še zadnjič, saj je po drugi svetovni vojni nastopil čas sovjetizacije športa in novih klubov ter med njimi Olimpije, ki je nadaljevala tradicijo Ilirije in Primorja v kosanju z jugoslovansko konkurenco, mestni derbi pa je ostal v zgodovini.

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“Ljubljana Exulted” Text: Tomaž Pavlin

ummer in Ljubljana can be infernally hot. A man is searching for somewhere cool and shady. When he finds it, in the garden of a gostilna, he stretches out in a chair, ice-cold drink at his elbow, picks up a newspaper, turns over a page, takes a sip of his drink and – is shocked out of his leisurely lounging by a sensational and nostalgic piece of news: there is going to be a derby in Ljubljana again. Now that really will be worth seeing. Perhaps this is how it was. In late June 1941, just over two months after the attack on Yugoslavia, the partition of Slovenia and the irruption of the Second World War onto Slovenian soil, perhaps the citizens of Ljubljana were shocked by the news that at in early August 1941 Primorje and Ilirija would once again take the field against each other.

Nostalgic memories were awakened of the good old derbies, not seen in Ljubljana for five long years, and a little song was called to mind:

All Ljubljana is astir, Lads and lasses all, When Primorje and Ilir'ja Go to play football. Seen from today's perspective this is a very interesting and even intriguing event. Was the granting of permission for the match perhaps a symbolic settling of accounts with the just-defeated Yugoslav-Slovene period and an introduction to the establishing of a new dominant sport under Italian Fascism? The match was a one-off: played once and never again. Following the derby, the new Fascist era marked the end of Primorje, which ceased to be an active club after this match. Why? Primorje was the Ljubljana-based club of immigrants from Primorska who had fled to Yugoslavia after the First World War and the occupation of Primorska and its annexation to the Kingdom of Italy. Its colours were black-and-white with the red halberd of Trieste and it conserved the national memory of the lost territory of Primorska. On the other side was Ljubljana's squeaky-clean, white-and-green “townie” team Ilirija. The fruit of Ljubljana's desire for football, rather than that of immigrants from the Trieste and Gorizia areas. A battle for supremacy developed between the two teams, inflaming and exciting the people of Ljubljana and dividing them into two camps. And then that day ar-

{ A Story from the History of Football }

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rived, the day of the evergreen derby: Sunday, 3 August 1941. According to the Jutro newspaper, at least 2,000 spectators watched the matches of the old and young generations of Primorje and Ilirija. For the last time in the century they met on the pitch and then dispersed. Some went underground, some joined the partisans, some even collaborated with the enemy. Others returned to everyday life under the occupation, to wait for the end of the war. Ilirija triumphed in the “old guard” derby, thanks to a recently active player, Sandi Lah, who had played for Belgrade team BASK in the years before the Second World War. Following the German attack on Yugoslavia he returned to Ljubljana and later joined the partisans. Sandi was a footballing authority in the second half of the 1930s. He played in attack and was a celebrated striker. And it was his strikes that decided the derby, since with most of the old guard it was clear that their careers were already over. In the youth match, by contrast, Primorje were the winners, so the overall result was a draw. Fair enough. And off they went into history, following the generations that a little earlier had pioneered football in Slovenia. But how did it actually start? Who is to blame, if today we are able to follow a squad of Slovene players on their journey to South Africa, to the World Cup? For many generations of Slovenes this was something unattainable: for as long as we were part of the Yugoslav community, getting into the national team was extremely difficult. Tracing the origins leads us to the turn of the 19th century, when youngsters first made the acquaintance of the leather ball “with a soul” and became enthusiastic about a new game: football. The new game was invented by the English. Via them, and via sporting Anglophiles, the game spread into central Europe and reached Slovenia. By the end of the nineteenth century Ljubljana had its own football club, which however later closed. After that, football was played by schoolboys in many parts of Slovenia – so school reports tell us – and schoolboy teams were formed. From 1925 we find Rudolf Koprivnik's fond memories of the beginnings of schoolboy football among the generation that was later responsible for establishing club football in Ljubljana. In his view the critical events took place in 1906, “when the clubs of our white Ljubljana did not yet number off in pairs, before the days of leagues and subleagues, when today's ‘old boys’ were still in short trousers. We were schoolboys getting to grips with Latin for the first time. School discipline was strict, and our conservative fathers were even stricter. ‘Sport’ only existed in the form of compulsory games supervised by a schoolmaster. ... And then a bomb went off.” One day a group of promising first-year grammar-school pupils arrived at the playing field to find a number of their colleagues from the school's German department spinning and leaping in the middle of the field. They were kicking a fat ball from one to the other “and when it fell in a puddle it splashed the clumsy ‘kickers’ and on it appeared spots, figures, the continents of our globe. Oh wonder of wonders!” Curiosity got the better of them. They moved closer and stared at the fat inflated leather ball. “What's it made of? ... Inflated leather? It can't be. ‘The soul is inside it,’ someone says. Just like a person: a soul and a body!” The “wonder of wonders” utterly entranced them and soon they too had learnt to play with the inflated leather ball with a soul and a body. They were not the only ones. In the

spring of 1907, the youth of Ljubljana were “kicking all over the place”, although with caution, since for many parents and moralists the ball was something indecent. Anyone who wanted to perfect his footballing skills came up against school rules prohibiting the game and schoolmasters “who naturally opposed every innovation. In particular this coarse game where one risked one's legs and one's head and – horror! – clothes and expensive shoes. The anathema affected all would-be footballers. Detentions and lines were handed out, and at home – the cane.” And yet the schoolboys did not give in and in the spring of 1908 they formed the Hermes schoolboy football club, this time with the permission of the school authorities. Now they could play and the first matches were organised, first against their German neighbours in Ljubljana and then, in early May 1911, they hosted a similar team, Studentesca Sportiva, from Trieste. The result was a draw but merely organising and playing a public fixture was a great victory. “Ljubljana exulted,” wrote the commentator. And what about university students? They encountered football in the cities where they studied, for in the early 20th century football had already spread throughout Europe. In Prague, where an increasing number of Slovenes went to study, the most famous team was Slavija. Before the First World War this club was even playing friendlies against English clubs. To play against the fathers of the game – that really was something. Sensational stories about these matches circulated in

Ljubljana, about “matches against the English, how goalkeepers abandoned their goals rather than try and save balls kicked by the famous Konšek, whose strikes were so powerful that they sent ball and keeper tumbling to the back of the goal.” Slavija of Prague – a Czech team but since they were Slavs they were also somehow our team – were a model for Ljubljana's amateur footballers, who in May 1911, just two days after the football match between the Ljubljana and Trieste schoolboys, got together and founded a Slovene football club: Ilirija. Players from Hermes joined the club and Ilirija quickly became the trademark of Ljubljana football. Their match against Slavija in 1913 was a memorable moment, and even more so their victory over HAŠK of Zagreb in the autumn of the same year – because HAŠK were considered the best club in the South Slav lands. A similar story took place in Gorizia, where a group of schoolboys founded a club called Jugoslavija on leaving school. The two clubs were the main representatives of Slovene football before the First World War. And then came the war. Footballs gave way to grenades, green fields to trenches, and many players never came home. The survivors regrouped in Ljubljana in the spring of 1919 and revived Ilirija. Many inhabitants of the Primorska region sought refuge in Ljubljana after the war and, as a result, some former players of the Gorizia-based Jugoslavija joined Ilirija, as did a number of players from Trieste. When immigrants from Primorska founded their own team in Ljubljana in

1920, these players joined the new team, Primorje. By the mid-1920s the capital already had its own derby, the Ilirija-Primorje match, interest in which was not however limited to Ljubljana, since whoever won the derby was also usually the national champion of Slovenia and qualified for the finals of the Yugoslav championship. The Ilirija-Primorje derby attracted crowds of several thousand and was even broadcast on the radio – for the first time in the spring of 1929. Football became the national sport in the 1920s, at least in terms of the number of clubs and players, although it later had to share this title with skiing. The game spread throughout society and the Slovene league included both middle-class and workers' clubs. The top clubs, however, were always Ilirija and Primorje, joined in the 1930s by Maribor. In the mid-1930s the football section of Primorje was renamed Ljubljana. Ilirija broke up and its players join Ljubljana, which then represented Slovene football in the Yugoslav league. This was the end of the derby, right up until August 1941, when Ljubljana was once again gripped by football fever. For the last time, because after the Second World War came the Sovietisation of sport and new clubs, among them Olimpija, which continued Ilirija and Primorje's tradition of competing with clubs from the rest of Yugoslavia, but the city derby was now part of history.

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Ljubljana

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Urbančeva hiša v Ljubljani

Foto: arhiv Zmaga Tančiča

drugi polovici 19. stoletja, kmalu potem, ko je bila skozi mesto zgrajena železniška proga, se je začela Ljubljana počasi prebujati iz provincialnega središča v moderno narodno prestolnico. V tem času so si sledile mnoge pomembne pridobitve mestne infrastrukture - od mestne plinarne in elektrarne do ureditve mestnega vodovoda, kanalizacije in tlakovanja ulic -, ki so poleg izboljšanja zdravstvenih in higienskih razmer prispevale k veliko bolj urejeni podobi mesta in ne nazadnje tudi h kvaliteti bivanja. Potem pa je leta 1895 mesto stresel močan potres in porušil več kot 10 odstotkov hiš, večino drugih pa poškodoval. Za trenutek je razvoj ustavil, nato pa sta se gradnja in s tem tudi urbanizacija pospešeno nadaljevali. Pri natečajih za pomembnejše objekte so dobivali naročila arhitekti, ki so načrtovali v

Besedilo: Alja Bukovec

Fotografije: Miran Kambič

tradicionalnih in historičnih slogih. V javnosti je prevladovalo mnenje, da so za gradnjo družbeno reprezentativnih objektov primerni le določeni historični slogi. Eden takih je bil neorenesančni in v tem slogu je dobila Ljublja( 87 ) na deželni dvorec, opero, narodni muzej in še nekatere druge zgradbe. Kljub splošni družbeni konzervativnosti, ki je bila prisotna v tem času, je peščica bogatejšega ljubljanskega meščanstva našla posluh za novosti, ki so prihajale k nam predvsem z Dunaja in iz Budimpešte, redkeje tudi iz drugih dežel zahodne Evrope. Tako so v letu 1898 nastala v Ljubljani prva arhitekturna dela, na katerih najdemo sledove nove dunajske mode, umetnosti fin-de-sciecla. Slogovne značilnosti te nove mode so večinoma omejene samo na fasadno dekoracijo, le izjemoma se pri nas pojavijo tudi v notranjščini, kot je to pri Urbančevi hiši.

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a trgovska hiša predstavlja eno najlepših secesijskih celostnih umetnin v Ljubljani. Letnica na fasadi nam pove, da je bila zgrajena leta 1903, in sicer na prostoru dveh manjših predmestnih hiš, ki ju je potres močno poškodoval. Ljubljanski trgovec Feliks Urbanc je tako združil tri parcele in julija 1902 na mestni magistrat napisal prošnjo za določitev stavbne črte za trinadstropno trgovino. Načrte je zaupal graškemu arhitektu Friedrichu Sigmundtu in to naj bi bilo po mnenju nekaterih umetnostnih zgodovinarjev arhitektovo najkvalitetnejše delo. Koncept trgovine kot enotnega prodajnega prostora, ki je po monumentalnem stopnišču povezan z obhodno prodajno galerijo, spominja na veleblagovnice iz tistega časa v Parizu, na Dunaju ali v Budimpešti. Sigmudt naj bi se pri snovanju zgledoval tudi po neki budimpeštanski trgovski hiši. Urbančeva hiša ima v tlorisu obliko nepravilnega peterokotnika. Glavna fasada, široka le 5.5 metrov, je obrnjena proti Prešernovemu trgu in s tem mehča sicer oster vogal med Miklovšičevo in Trubarjevo ulico ter sooblikuje fasado trga, ki se je po potresu iz predmestnega križišča razvil v nov mestni prostor in po besedah arhitekta Maksa Fabianija postal »v mnogih ozirih središče mesta«. Zunanjost stavbe je v horizontalni smeri razdeljena na dva dela. Spodnji trgovski del, obdelan v rustiki, kjer sta dva niza enako velikih okenskih odprtin med seboj komaj ločena z ozkim fasadnim pasom, je s preprostim ploskovito oblikovanim vencem ločen od zgornjega

Koncept trgovine kot

enotnega prodajnega prostora, ki je po monumentalnem stopnišču povezan z obhodno prodajno galerijo, spominja na veleblagovnice iz tistega časa v Parizu, na Dunaju ali v Budimpešti.

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{ Ljubljana }

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stanovanjskega dela, ki je ometan. Značilna vegetabilna dekoracija krasi predvsem zgornji del hiše na pilastrih od tretjega nadstropja do strešnega venca. Stavbi dajeta poseben pečat reprezentativen portal s polkrožnim nadstreškom v obliki pahljačasto razprtih cvetnih listov iz stekla in kovanega železa ter neobaročni kip Merkurja, zaščitnika trgovcev, na čelu. V notranjosti je peterokotna prodajna dvorana, ki se razteza čez dve etaži, oblikovana kot galerijski prostor. Do galerije vodi čudovito oblikovano triramno stopnišče, ki je v osi z vhodom in se začne z zaobljenim podestom. Ta se elegantno razdeli v dve stopniščni krili, ki nato v ostrem loku zavijeta na eno in drugo stran galerije. Stopnišče nosita dve vrsti stebrov, med njima stoji na oboku ženski kip, ki predstavlja obrt. Samo oblikovanje stopnišča, linija galerijske in stopniščne ograje, spodaj elegantno zaključene z ženskima glavama, okrasje in tudi stilno pohištvo spominjajo bolj na vzore belgijskega art nouveaja kot na dunajsko secesijo. Veleblagovnico so Feliksu Urbancu takoj po drugi svetovni vojni odvzeli, od takrat naprej je imelo prostore v njej nemalo različnih podjetij. Leta 1946 je bila vpisana kot last FLRJ – torej nekdanje Jugoslavije –, v letu 1947 jo je prevzelo podjetje Tkanina, kasneje tudi grosistično podjetje Merkur. Zadnjih nekaj deset let se je Ljubljančani spominjamo kot trgovine Centromerkur. V tem času je bila večkrat prezidana in tudi v notranjosti spremenjena. Dvorišče, ki je bilo prvotno pokrito s streho iz stekla in kovanega železa, je bilo zazidano, nekatere pregrade med prostori odstranjene, stopnišča premaknjena ... Bolje ohranjen je bil le centralni prostor veleblagovnice s stopniščem, originalnim pohištvom, lučmi in celo z dvema originalnima jedkanima stekloma, a ob prodajnem programu vse do pred nekaj leti ni prišel do izraza. Vendarle pa naj bi se secesijski lepotici obetali boljši časi. Potem ko je po dolgem denacionalizacijskem postopku prišla nazaj v last potomcem Feliksa Urbanca, so se v letu 2007 začela renovacijska in konzervatorska dela, ki bodo stavbi povrnila nekdanji sijaj. V začetku jeseni tega leta bo trgovska hiša spet odprla svoja vrata in zasijala v vsej svoji veličini.

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{ Ljubljana }

The Urbanc Building in Ljubljana Text: Alja Bukovec

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Photography: Miran Kambič

n the second half of the 19th century, not long after the railway line was built through the city, Ljubljana started gradually to rise from a provincial centre into a modern national capital. During this time there was a whole series of major urban infrastructure acquisitions, ranging from the city gasworks and power station to the regulation of mains water, sewers and paved streets, which in addition to improved health and hygiene conditions contributed to the appearance of the city being better regulated and ultimately also to its quality of life. In 1895 the city was shaken by a powerful earthquake that destroyed more than 10 percent of the buildings and damaged the majority of others. For a time, development came to a halt, but then construction and with it, urbanisation, continued at an even faster pace. Tenders for major structures were won by architects who designed in traditional and historical styles. The prevalent public view was that only certain historical styles were appropriate for the construction of publicly prestigious buildings. One such style was the neo-Renaissance style, and it was in this style that Ljubljana acquired its provincial palace, opera house, national museum and certain other buildings. Despite the generally conservative nature of society evident at that time, a handful of wealthier Ljubljana residents discovered a sense

of novelty, which arrived here primarily from Vienna and Budapest, and more rarely from other countries of western Europe. So in 1898 Ljubljana saw the emergence of the first architectural works showing traces of the new Vienna fashion, fin-de-siècle art. The stylistic features of this new fashion were for the most part limited to façade decoration, and only exceptionally do we see in Slovenia these features in the interior, as is the case in the Urbanc building. This mercantile building represents one of the finest complete works of art nouveau in Ljubljana. The year on the façade tells us that it was built in 1903, on the site of two smaller suburban buildings that had been severely damaged in the earthquake. Ljubljana merchant Felix Urbanc combined three lots and in July 1902 submitted an application to the city authorities for planning permission to build a three-storey retail building. He entrusted the plans to the Graz architect Friedrich Sigmund, and in the opinion of some art historians, this was supposedly the architect’s highest-quality work. The concept of the store as a single sales premises, which was linked via a monumental staircase to a walk-through sales gallery, was reminiscent of the department stores of that time in Paris, Vienna or Budapest. In his plans, Sigmund also supposedly drew from some Budapest department store. The Urbanc Building has a ground plan in the form of an irregular pentangle. The main façade, which is just 5.5 metres wide, faces Prešeren Square, and in so doing softens the otherwise acute-angled corner between Miklošičeva and Trubarjeva streets, and forms the façade of the square; after the earthquake this evolved from a suburban crossroads into a new urban space, and in the words of architect Maks Fabiani it became “in many respects the centre of the city”. On the horizontal plane the exterior of the building is divided into two parts. The lower retail part, given a rustic finish, where there are two sets of equal-sized window openings barely separated from each other by a narrow strip of façade, is separated from the upper residential part, with its render finish, by a simple, slab-design wreath. The characteristic vegetation decoration adorns primarily the upper part of the building on pilasters from the third storey to the roof wreath. The building is lent a special quality by the prestigious portal with its semi-circular awning in the form of fan-shaped open petals of glass and wrought iron, and the neo-Baroque statue of Mercury, protector of merchants, at the top of the building. The interior houses a five-cornered sales hall, which extends over two floors designed as a gallery space. The gallery is reached by a fabu-

Foto: arhiv Zmaga Tančiča

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concept

The of the store as a single sales premises, which was linked via a monumental staircase to a walkthrough sales gallery, was reminiscent of the department stores of that time in Paris, Vienna or Budapest. lously designed three-sectioned staircase, which lies on an axis with the entrance and begins with a rounded landing, which divides elegantly into two staircase wings that then wind in a narrow arc up to one and the other side of the gallery. The staircase is supported by two types of pillar, and above the arch between them stands the statue of a woman personifying crafts. The actual design of the staircase, the line of the stairs and the gallery balustrade, ending below in womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heads, the stucco ornamentation and the period furnishings are reminiscent more of examples of Belgian art nouveau than of the Vienna Sezession.

Immediately after the Second World War, the department store was taken from Felix Urbanc, and since then a number of different companies have occupied it. In 1946 it was registered as property of the Federal Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Republic of Yugoslavia, and in 1947 it was taken over by the Tkanina enterprise, then later by the wholesale company Merkur. Over the last few decades Ljubljana residents have been familiar with it as the Centromerkur store. In that time it has been reconstructed several times, with alterations to its interior, too. The courtyard, which was originally covered with a glass and wrought iron roof, was built over, some staircases were moved and the partitions between rooms were also shifted. Only the central space of the department store with its staircase, original furnishings, lights and even two original etched glass panels remained relatively untouched, but with its product range this part of the building was prevented from enjoying full expression right up until just a few years ago. Nevertheless, this art nouveau beauty is promised better times. Now that it has found its way back into ownership by the descendants of Felix Urbanc following the long process of denationalisation, 2007 saw the start of renovation and conservation work that will restore the building to its former glory. At the beginning of autumn this year, this retail building will once again open its doors and shine in all its grandeur.

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eliks Urbanc se je rodil 27. julija 1850 na Drnovem pri Krškem v uradniški družini. Starši so mu zgodaj umrli, zato ga je vzel k sebi stari oče, ki je živel v Brežicah. Tam je končal šolo in se zaposlil v eni takratnih največjih brežiških trgovin, kjer je kmalu postal poslovodja. V 70-ih letih se je preselil v Kranj. Poročil se je s Franjo Krisper, hčerko znanega kranjskega trgovca. Postal je njegov družabnik in začel voditi trgovino Krisper&U. Pod tem imenom je leta 1882 prevzel še trgovino Pod Trančo v Ljubljani, ki je kasneje postala manufakturna veletrgovina. Leta 1902 je dal zgraditi na začetku Trubarjeve ceste novo poslopje in v njem uredil moderno manufakturno trgovsko hišo. Trgovina je pokrivala tako maloprodajo kot veleprodajo in je bila tudi sicer razdeljena na dva dela. Na strani, ki je obrnjena na današnjo Trubarjevo cesto, se je odvijala trgovina na drobno oz. prodaja mešanega blaga preko pulta, medtem ko je bil drugi del hiše, ki gleda proti Miklošičevi cesti, namenjen grosistični ponudbi. Tam so bili prostori za skladiščenju blaga, pa tudi prostor za hlev in konje. V okviru veletrgovine so bili zaposleni trije trgovski potniki, ki so imeli na voljo osebne avtomobile in so vse do druge svetovne vojne prodajali blago po stari Jugoslaviji. Naročila so pošiljali v Ljubljano, blago so v skladišču zapakirali v lesene zaboje in jih s konjsko vprego vozili do ljubljanske železniške postaje. V prvem nadstropju levo od stopnišča so v pisarnah uradovale tri uslužbenke. Stanovanjski del Urbančevih je bil v drugem in tretjem nadstopju, podstrešje pa je bilo namenjeno nastanitvi uslužbencev.

eliks Urbanc was born on 27 July 1850 at Drnovo pri Krškem to the family of a government official. His parents died when he was young, so he was taken in by his grandfather, who lived in Brežice. There he completed his schooling and took employment in what was then one of the biggest shops in Brežice, soon becoming the manager. In the 1870s he moved to Kranj. He married Franja Krisper, daughter of a well-known Kranj merchant. He became a partner in the firm, and started managing the Krisper&U store. It was under this name in 1882 that he took over the Pod Trančo store in Ljubljana, which later became a department store for textile goods. In 1902 he commissioned a new building at the start of Trubarjeva Street, and in it he set up a modern textiles store. The store offered both retail and wholesale, and was split into two departments. The side that faced out to today’s Trubarjeva Street was the retail side, providing over-the-counter sales of mixed goods, while the other side of the building, which faces out to Miklošičeva Street, was intended for wholesale goods. There were spaces in that section for storing goods, as well as a space for stables and horses. The store employed three travelling salesmen, who had access to personal automobiles and who sold goods throughout the old Yugoslavia right up until the Second World War. Orders were sent to Ljubljana, and goods in the storage section were packed in wooden boxes and taken by horse cart to the Ljubljana railway station. On the first floor, to the left of the staircase were offices where three employees performed clerical work. The residential apartment for the Urbanc family was on the second and third floors, while the attic was used to accommodate staff.

Foto: arhiv Zmaga Tančiča

Feliks Urbanc F F

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Japonska

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Vrtna kontemplacija Besedilo: Charlotte Anderson

Fotografije: Gorazd Vilhar

{ Japonska }

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supljive vrtove Kjota sva prvič videla pred petindvajsetimi leti. Še vedno čutim na svoji koži soparno vročino, ko sva se v tistih nepozabnih poletnih dneh sprehajala od templja do templja, posedala na verandah in poslušala petje škržatov ter občudovala edinstvene japonske krajinske suhe vrtove, ki se imenujejo karesansui. Zdeli so se mi tako poetični – kot že samo njihovo ime, ki pomeni »gore in vodovja brez vode«. Zahvaljujoč tem očarljivim vrtovom, v katerih je vode ali rastlinja zelo malo ali nič, sva začela odpirati svoj um novim načinom razmišljanja in videnja.

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teh krajih že od davnih časov verjamejo, da v nenavadnih kamnih prebivajo tamkajšnji bogovi. Preprostejši predniki vrtnega koncepta so bili sveti kraji animističnega čaščenja – sprva zgolj gole jase med drevesi, ki pa so bile pozneje posute z belimi kamenčki in kot svete označene s slamnatimi vrvmi. Zaradi tega ne preseneča, da ima kamen za Japonce nekakšen duhovni prizven in so se kamniti vrtovi izoblikovali prav tukaj in samo tukaj. Japonci ustvarjajo formalne vrtove že od osmega stoletja, ko so jih navdihnili takratni klasični kitajski vrtovi. Skozi naslednja stoletja se je japonsko vrtnarstvo razvijalo in razcvetalo še naprej, dokler ni postalo vzvišena in ugledna dejavnost. Vzpon zena, disciplinirane in asketske oblike budizma, je močno vplival na različne tradicionalne japonske umetnosti, vključno z vrtnarstvom. Učenci, ki so se vračali s študija pri zenovskih mojstrih na Kitajskem, so prevzemali slikanje v slogu dinastije Sung – krajine z razbrazdanimi gorami, skalovjem, drevesi in slapovi, mojstrsko naslikane na svilo ali papir s črnim črnilom sumi, so simbolizirale človekovo duhovno življenje. Čeprav je te slike sprva navdihnila naravna pokrajina, so – zanimivo – prav te slike pozneje navdihnile oblikovanje »kamnitih vrtov«. Vrtove karesansui najdemo tudi drugod po Japonskem, najstarejši in najštevilnejši pa so v Kjotu. Včasih vse skupaj ni nič drugega kot pesek ali prod, z grabljami oblikovan v preproste, čeprav prefinjene vzorce; drugi vrtovi pa v svojih umetniških in duhovnih kompozicijah, ki so pogosto visokostilizirani prikazi narave in alegorični simboli življenja,

vsebujejo tudi skalovje, mah ali celo obrezane grme. V nasprotju z zgodnejšimi vrtovi, ki so vključevali tudi ribnike, potočke ali slapove, je v teh navzočnost vode zgolj nakazana. Ti kontemplativni vrtovi so se prvič pojavili in nato razcveteli v času evropske renesanse in nekateri iz tistega obdobja še vedno obstajajo kot izstopajoči primeri umetnosti. Včasih vzbujajo tak občutek svežine, da človek kar ne more verjeti, da so bili ustvarjeni pred petimi stoletji; podobno se počutimo v tistih, ki so stari le nekaj desetletij. V resnici je sodobni mojster vrtov Mirej Šigemori v 20. stoletju svojim prizadevanjem za lasten sijajen karesansui vtisnil »večno sodobnost«. Tisti obiskovalci vrtov, ki za očitno lepoto iščejo globlji pomen, se lahko iz teh stvaritev naučijo pomembnih naukov. Najbolj znan krajinski suhi vrt so nekje proti koncu petnajstega stoletja ustvarili poleg templja Rjoan-dži. Ko so zahodni obiskovalci v zgodnjih desetletjih dvajsetega stoletja »odkrili« ta strogi vrt, so bili osupli, kajti takšen vrtni koncept je bil zunaj Japonske popolnoma neznan. Na na videz »praznem« ozadju, ki predstavlja ma ali negativen prostor, bistven za kompozicijo, je petnajst kamnov razporejenih v pet skupin. Nikoli jih ni mogoče naenkrat videti več kot štirinajst, ne glede na to, s katere točke verande jih opazujemo, razen – kakor so nam povedali – v trenutku duhovnega razsvetljenja. Ko je abstrakcija v zahodni umetnosti postala pomembno in priznano gibanje, se je izkazalo, da je to na Japonskem že zelo star koncept.

{ Japonska }

Tisti obiskovalci vrtov, ki za očitno lepoto iščejo globlji pomen, se lahko iz teh stvaritev naučijo pomembnih naukov.

( 100 ) Vrtovi karesansui, ki obkrožajo tempelj Dajsen-in, so prava paša za oči in duha. Pripovedujejo zgodbo o zapletenosti življenja, različni kamni in vzorci pa človeštvu ponujajo filozofsko modrost: simbolizirajo zenovsko življenje, posvečeno meditaciji, končno odpravo pohlepa, globine in vzpone, ki jih lahko doseže človeški duh, večno skrivnost dvoma in protislovja ter jalovost poskusov, da bi se v nenehnem toku življenja in stremljenja naprej poskušali vrniti v preteklost. Pri Rjogen-inu vrt A-Un obiskovalca spodbuja, naj se poglobi v resnico vesolja in neločljivost njegovih sestavnih delov: vdiha in izdiha (kar pomeni tudi ime vrta), nebes in Zemlje, pozitivnega in negativnega. V drugih pa nakazane gore, oceani, valovi in vrtinci narave ponazarjajo tiste težave v življenju, ki jih moramo bodisi prenesti bodisi premagati. Suhi krajinski vrt, ki je pod milim nebom na milost in nemilost prepuščen vetru in dežju, zahteva kar precej nege. Manjša so zrnca peska in drobnejši so kamenčki, prej nastopi nered, toda tudi to ponuja nauk o naravni minljivosti življenja. Najslavnejši vrtovi imajo dandanes toliko obiskovalcev, da je v njih morda težko najti tisti mir, ki bi si ga želeli. Manj obiskani ostajajo zvestejši svojemu prvotnemu namenu: ponuditi vzdušje tihega miru, ki človeka navaja h globokemu premisleku in zazrtju vase. Čeprav imajo vrtovi karesansui svoj izvor v zenu, so njihovo obliko občasno prevzeli tudi templji drugih budističnih ločin. Seveda pa ni treba biti zenovski budist ali sploh budist, da z obiska v takšnem vrtu odnesemo nekaj zelo dragocenega. Če si vzamemo čas in pogledamo z drugačnimi očmi, je prav neverjetno, kako globoko se nas vrt dotakne, tako na umetniški kot duhovni ravni. Gorazd Vilhar in Charlotte Anderson sta avtorja knjige Incomparable Japanese Gardens (Japonski vrtovi brez primere), ki je izšla pri IBC Publishing, Inc. v Tokiu.

A Garden Contemplation Text: Charlotte Anderson

Photography: Gorazd Vilhar

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t was 25 years ago that we first laid eyes on the amazing gardens of Kyoto. I can still feel the sultry heat on my skin as we wandered from temple to temple in those very memorable summer days, as we sat on verandas listening to the song of cicadas and contemplating the uniquely Japanese dry landscape gardens called karesansui. How poetic they seemed – even their name, which means “mountains and waters without water”. These intriguing gardens, in which real water and growing things had little or no part, made us begin to open our minds to new ways of thinking and seeing. Since ancient times, exceptional rocks have been perceived here as the dwelling places of native gods. The primitive predecessor of the garden concept was the sacred space of animistic worship – originally a bare clearing in a grove of trees, but later paved with white pebbles and demarcated as sacred with straw ropes. Consequently, it seems natural that stone has a certain spiritual resonance for the Japanese, and not at all strange that gardens of stone would have been conceived here, and here alone. The Japanese have been creating formal gardens since the eighth century, inspired by the classical Chinese gardens of the day. Through the following centuries, Japanese gardening developed and flourished to become a noble and illustrious pursuit. The rise of the disciplined and ascetic Zen sect of Buddhism was to strongly influence various traditional Japanese arts, including gardening. Disciples returning from study with Zen masters in China took up Sung-style painting – landscape imagery of craggy mountains, rocks, trees and waterfalls suggested by masterful strokes of black sumi ink on silk or paper – to symbolically represent man’s spiritual life. While natural landscapes had inspired the paintings, interestingly, it was the paintings that eventually inspired the creation of these “rock gardens”.

{ Japan }

For garden visitors who look beyond the obvious beauty for a deeper meaning, there are also meaningful lessons to be learned.

( 102 ) Karesansui gardens can be found elsewhere in Japan, but it is Kyoto that possesses the oldest and the greatest share of them. Sometimes nothing more than sand or gravel is raked into simple yet exquisite patterns. Other gardens include rocks, moss or even pruned bushes in their artistic and spiritual compositions, which often contain highly stylised representations of nature and allegorical symbols of life. Unlike earlier gardens that incorporated ponds, streams or waterfalls, the presence of water was only suggested in these. These contemplative gardens first developed and thrived at the time of the European Renaissance, and certain gardens dating from that period still stand as prominent examples of the art. There is sometimes a sense of freshness that one can hardly believe in gardens created five centuries ago – just as in others that may be only a few decades old. Indeed, 20th-century garden master Mirei Shigemori made “eternally modern” his aspiration for his own splendid karesansui. For garden visitors who look beyond the obvious beauty for a deeper meaning, there are also meaningful lessons to be learned. The best known of the dry landscape gardens was created near the close of the fifteenth century at the temple Ryoan-ji. When Western visitors “discovered” this austere garden’s existence in the early decades of the 20th century, they were stunned, for such a garden concept was unknown outside Japan. On a seemingly “empty” background, demonstrating ma, or the quality of negative space that is essential to the composition, 15 stones are arranged in 5 groupings. No more than 14 of these can be seen at once, no matter what point on the veranda they are observed from, except, it has been suggested, perhaps at the moment of spiritual enlightenment. When abstraction became an important and recognised movement in Western art, it became apparent that it was already a very old concept in Japan.

The karesansui gardens surrounding the temple Daisen-in are a feast for the eyes and the spirit. They speak of the complexity of life, and various stones and patterns offer philosophical wisdom to mankind: suggesting symbolically the Zen life of meditation, the eventual elimination of greed, the depths and heights the human spirit can reach, the unremitting puzzle of doubt and contradiction, and the futility of trying to return to the past in life’s ever-onward flow. At Ryogen-in, the A-Un garden encourages the viewer to ponder the truth of the universe and the inseparability of its constituent counterparts: to inhale and exhale (which is the meaning of the garden’s name), to consider heaven and earth, and the positive and negative. Elsewhere, the representational mountains, oceans, waves and whirlpools of nature symbolise those difficulties of life that we must bear or overcome. Being outdoors, at the mercy of the wind and rain, dry landscape gardens require a certain amount of care. The smaller the grains of sand or gravel, the sooner the disarray, but this too offers a lesson about the natural transience of life. The most famous of these gardens receive so many visitors nowadays that the tranquillity that was their purpose can be hard to find. The less visited ones hold truer to the original conception: to offer an air of quiet solitude that lends itself to contemplation and introspection. Although karesansui originated in Zen, this garden genre has occasionally been adopted by temples of other Buddhist sects. But it is not necessary to be a Zen adept, nor even Buddhist, to take something very valuable away from such a garden visit. If a person takes the time to look with new eyes, it is extraordinary how affecting these gardens can be, on both artistic and spiritual levels.

Gorazd Vilhar and Charlotte Anderson are the authors of Incomparable Japanese Gardens published by IBC Publishing, Inc., Tokyo, and available internationally from Amazon.

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SLOV EN IJA Nekaj osnovnih podatkov 2

površina (v km )

gozdovi travniki polja in vrtovi sadovnjaki vinogradi

20 273 10 124 5 593 2 471 363 216

forests grassland fields and gardens orchards vineyards

546 324 235 102 46,6

with Croatia with Austria with Italy with Hungary coastline (in km)

20 273 10 124 5 593 2 471 363 216 546 324 235 102 46.6

highest point

najvišja točka

Triglav

territory area (in sq. km)

border length (in km)

dolžina meje (v km)

s Hrvaško z Avstijo z Italijo z Madžarsko obala (v km)

A few facts

2864 m

Triglav

2864 m

population density

gostota naseljenosti

(prebivalcev/km)

(inhabitants/km)

prebivalstvo

2 milijona

population

2 million

Ljubljana

capital

glavno mesto večja mesta: podnebje:

Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje

alpsko, celinsko, sredozemsko

Ljubljana

major towns: climate:

Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenje

Alpine, Continental, Mediterranean

language:

jezik:

Uradni jezik je slovenščina, na območjih z mešanim prebivalstvom pa madžarščina in italijanščina. Pri stiku s tujci Slovenci uporabljajo angleščino, nemščino, italijanščino in francoščino.

The official language is Slovene, as well as Hungarian and Italian in areas of mixed population. In contact with foreigners, Slovenes use English, German, Italian and French.

denarna valuta: Denarna valuta je evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahko zamenjate na mejnih prehodih, v bankah, menjalnicah in hotelih.

currency:

prazniki

1. in 2. januar 8. februar 8. april 27. april 1. in 2. maj 25. junij 15. avgust 31. oktober 1. november 25. december 26. december

novo leto Prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik velika noč dan upora proti okupatorju (druga svetovna vojna) praznik dela dan državnosti Marijino vnebovzetje dan reformacije dan spomina na mrtve božič dan samostojnosti

The currency is the euro (EUR). Foreign currency may be exchanged at border crossings, in banks, exchange offices and hotels.

holidays

January 1 & 2 February 8 April 8 April 27 May 1 & 2 June 25 August 15 October 31 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Holiday rešeren Day, P Slovene Day of Culture Easter Sunday and Monday Day of Uprising Against the Occupation (WW2) Labour Day Pentecost Statehood Day Assumption Day Reformation Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Day Independence Day

EV ROPA EU ROPE

Redni poleti / Scheduled Flights Zimski in poletni vozni red Iz/from Ljubljana/Brnik

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Čarterski poleti / Charter Flights Winter and summer timetables Iz/from Ljubljana/Brnik

Nm/km

Čas poleta/ Flight time (A320/CRJ)

Amsterdam

606/1122

1.35 h

Antalya

966/1789

2.35 h

Athens

761/1409

2.05 h

Aqaba

1454/2692

3.18 h

Barcelona

686/1270

1.46 h

Cairo

1276/2363

3.25 h

Belgrade

267/494

0.65 h

Chios

738/1367

2.10 h

Brussels

559/1035

1.26 h

Constanca

654/1211

1.55 h

Copenhagen

641/1187

1.39 h

Djerba

796/1474

2.20 h

Dublin

1026/1900

2.38 h

Dubrovnik

292/541

1.05 h

Frankfurt

420/778

1.07 h

Heraklion

832/1540

2.15 h

Istanbul

781/1446

1.53 h

Hurghada

1533/2839

3.45 h

Kiev

730/1352

2.05 h

Ibiza

799/1480

2.20 h

London (Gatwick)

757/1402

1.56 h

Karpathos

996/1844

2.35 h

Madrid

929*1722

2.35 h

Kefalonija

585/1083

1.45 h

Manchester

868/1608

2.11 h

Kerkira (Corfu)

523/968

1.35 h

Moscow (Sheremetyevo)

1120/2074

2.35 h

Kos

873/1616

2.20 h

Munich

224/415

0.41 h

Larnaca

1197/2216

3.00 h

Paris (C. de Gaulle)

616/1141

1.36 h

Lefkas (Preveza)

567/1050

1.40 h

Pristina

622/1150

1.50 h

Lesbos (Mitiline)

746/1381

2.10 h

Podgorica

365/676

1.25 h

Malta

670/1241

2.00 h

Sarajevo

222/411

0.41 h

Menorca

646/1196

1.55 h

Skopje

413/765

1.07 h

Mykonos

793/1468

1.56 h

Stockholm

910/1685

2.35 h

Palma de Mallorca

723/1339

2.10 h

Tirana

474/878

1.14 h

Rhodos

947/1753

2.30 h

Vienna

153/283

0.30 h

Samos

823/1524

2.10 h

Zürich

334/619

0.56 h

Santorini

836/1548

2.15 h

Warsaw

463/859

1.35 h

Sharm el Sheikh

1505/2787

3.45 h

Skiatos

632/1170

1.50 h

Vienna - Frankfurt

358/663

1.10 h

Split

207/383

0.50 h

Thassos (Kavala)

563/1043

1.45 h

Tel Aviv

1286/2382

2.57 h

Thessaloniki

571/1057

1.24 h

Zakinthos

632/1170

1.50h

Adria Airways has used the map of Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.

Adria Airways

{ Adria Airways }

Flota/Fleet Airbus A320 Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height Razpon kril/Wingspan Hitrost/Cruising speed Višina poleta/Max. altitude Dolet/Range Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

1 37.57 m 11.75 m 34.10 m 900 km/h 11 700 m 3 890 km 162

Canadair Regional Jet 100/200 LR ( 118 )

Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height Razpon kril/Wingspan Hitrost/Cruising speed Višina poleta/Max. altitude Dolet/Range Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

7 26.77 m 6.22 m 21.21 m 860 km/h 12 496 m 3 285 km 48/50

Canadair Regional Jet 900 Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height Razpon kril/Wingspan Hitrost/Cruising speed Višina poleta/Max. altitude Dolet/Range Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

4 32.50 m 7.57 m 23.20 m 882 km/h 12 496 m 3 600 km 86

Airbus A319 Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height Razpon kril/Wingspan Hitrost/Cruising speed Višina poleta/Max. altitude Dolet/Range Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

2 33.84 m 11.76 m 34.10 m 900 km/h 11 700 m 6 650 km 135

TAM Airlines has joined Star Alliance Making it easier to get to the heart of Brazil and beyond In comfort and style Two things I know a bit about. I’ve earned it.

Márcio Utsch, CEO São Paulo Alpargatas, Creators of Havaianas and Star Allian ce Gold Status

starallian ce.com

{ Adria Dobrodošli v letalu AdrieAirways Airways} Spoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimo na nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred letom, med poletom in po pristanku.

Pred letom Ekonomski in poslovni razred Na večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-320, A-319, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR in CRJ-900. Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi za poslovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzema kadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumov potovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslovnih salonov na letališčih idr. V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskih tarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.

Nakup vozovnice prek spleta

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Web Check-in V Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsaka minuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet. Web check-in je naša novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavo na let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziroma povsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahko prijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web checkin je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.

Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EU Potnikom svetujemo, da pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev ter njihovih izdelkov je nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se s temi živili lahko prenašajo. V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljage ugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-ta zaseže. Informativni letak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani. Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletni strani www.vurs.gov.si pod poglavjem Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo.

Ročna prtljaga Zaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodna pravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage v velikosti 55 x 40 x 20 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov. Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kose pa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, da predal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njem premaknejo. Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj po izstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite. Letalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirate in kupite na Adrijinih spletnih straneh www.adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnim certifikatom. Elektronske vozovnice prejme potnik po elektronski pošti. V primeru, da potrebujete letalsko vozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudi drugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacije in prodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonski številki: 386 1 369 10 10 ali 080 13 00.

Potujte z elektronsko vozovnico Na vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možno leteti z elektronsko vozovnico. Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti (itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronski naslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj ves čas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom ali osebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim ta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo.

Varnostna pravila Evropska unija (EU) je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejo količino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajo biti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov. Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogoče znova zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne sme biti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače; juhe in sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lase in tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanice tekočih in trdnih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice; ter katerekoli druge snovi s podobno vsebnostjo. Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nanašajo samo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate: • zdravila in nujno potrebna živila, (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih boste uporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujno potrebujete; • tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi, (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni na letališču EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni kupon, ali pa na letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU).

{ Adria Airways } Če ste jih kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečke pred pregledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje na kontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. (Če na letališču EU presedate na drug let, vrečke ne odpiraj-te pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališču ali na zadnjem letališču, če presedate več kot enkrat.) Če imate kakršnekoli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite na svojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.

Med letom Napotki za varnost Z najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilo naše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našli navodila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo, vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite. Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi varnosti in udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom. Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavi oziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov. Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, takoimenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjem ovirajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali pa ogrožajo varnost in udobje sopotnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometa je kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki za tovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen.

Počutje in zdravje Vašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotoka zraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudi pozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete stevardeso. V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenje prve pomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijeten pritisk, do katerega prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska v letalu; težavo boste zlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali z nakazanim zehanjem. Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo, da se večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vaje za raztezanje celega telesa.

Alkohol na letalu V letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo. Kabinsko osebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znake vinjenosti, in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo, da alkohol zaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom deluje na telo hitreje in bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.

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Uporaba elektronskih naprav V letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnoma izključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskim upravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi z elektromagnetnimi valovi lahko motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov. Druge elektronske naprave, kot so prenosni računalniki, CD in DVD predvajalniki ter žepni kalkulatorji, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (če ne povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas, da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem in dosledno upoštevate njihove napotke.

Zamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovana prtljaga Če bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo do nepravilnega ravnanja z vašo registrirano prtljago (velja tudi za prtljago, oddano pred letalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavite na letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/Najdeno, Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonska številka + 386 (0 ) 25 94 339.

Center za stike s potniki V Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobite vse informacije o naši ponudbi in novostih, pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet. Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veseli pa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, po elektronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 13 03 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386 (0)1 369 11 33.

Najemi avtomobilov in hoteli Nevarni predmeti Po mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljeno imeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so: vnetljive tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahko vnetljive snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno.

Na Adrijini spletni strani smo pred kratkim dodali zavihka Rent-a-car in Hoteli, ki vam omogočata najugodnejše najeme vozil in rezervacije hotelskih namestitev. Zelo enostavno: obiščite www.adria.si in poiščite željeni zavihek. Na voljo je nekaj deset tisoč hotelskih objektov na vseh kontinentih, od tistih z eno zvezdico do prestižnih mednarodnih verig ter najemi vozil na več kot 3.400 lokacijah v 128 državah po celem svetu.

{ Adria Airways } Adria Airways Welcomes You Aboard Dear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow us to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flight and after landing.

Before take-off

Republic of Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section Public Announcements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use.

Economy and business class

Carry-on luggage

The majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A320, A319, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR and CRJ-900. A business class ticket is issued according to the current business class tariff and is valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any time and includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additional charge, a larger free luggage allowance, the use of business lounges at airports, etc. Economy class is for passengers with economy class tickets, which are cheaper and carry certain restrictions.

For your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules that permit passengers to have one piece of carry-on luggage of a maximum size of 55 x 40 x 20 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg. Carry-on luggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items may be stored under the seat in front of you if possible. We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as items may have moved during the flight and may fall out. If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on luggage must be surrendered on boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.

Online ticketing

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The cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria's website at www.adria-airways.com. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Online purchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronic tickets via e-mail. If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our Call Centre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.

EU airport security rules

Travel with an electronic ticket You can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airways scheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive a passenger coupon and itinerary in an Adria Airways cover. You can also receive the document via e-mail and print it yourself. You must keep this document with you throughout the journey. At the check-in, present your passport or identity card. The check-in personnel will issue you with your boarding pass. Electronic documentation of the ticket sale means that the ticket status can be verified at any time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of data and reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is no danger of losing the boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form.

Web Check-in At Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling. Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The web check-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection. You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before your scheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selected Adria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added.

Restrictions on bringing food into the EU We advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into the EU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfish and products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animals from the diseases that they can transmit. If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin during routine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “What to bring home” is available on our website. More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the

In 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict the amount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft. You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage. These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparent re-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurised containers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures; mascara; any other item of similar consistency. You can still: • pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage; • carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including baby foods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed; • buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when located beyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraft operated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not open it before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be

{ Adria Airways } confiscated at the checkpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screening at your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once). If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.

During the flight

items such as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highly inflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.

Comfort and health For your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located above your seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of the cabin crew if necessary. The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitude and the air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort. In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you to take frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises for the whole body while seated.

Alcohol on board Consuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board the aircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcohol to passengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight, alcohol has a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.

After landing Delayed, lost and damaged luggage Safety information Our cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft, we ask you to read the instructions carefully before every flight. During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For your own safety and comfort we also recommend that you leave it fastened during the flight. After landing, wait in your seat until the aircraft comes to a complete stop or until the seatbelt sign is switched off. The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriately on the aircraft with what is called a RED CARD. The red card is intended for anyone whose behaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does not observe safety instructions or who threatens the safety and comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is a violation of the law. Placing air traffic in jeopardy is a criminal offence in accordance with Article 330 of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1), carrying with it the penalty of imprisonment.

Use of electronic devices Use of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobile phones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video games with remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagnetic waves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems. Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD players and pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do not cause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing. Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sure to follow their instructions.

Hazardous items Under international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, either on their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous

If problems occur with your checked luggage during your journey (also applies to luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service as soon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)

Passenger Relations Centre Adria's Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and information about our services and can also offer assistance and advice. Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is always welcome. You can contact the Centre in person, in writing, by e-mail to prc@adria.si, by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if calling from Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.

Rent-a-cars and hotels We have recently added two tabs to Adria's website that enables you to book a rent-a-car or hotel accomodation throughout the world at favourable rates. Simply visit www.adria-airways.com, click on the desired tab. Choose from among tens of thousands of hotels on every continent, ranging from one-star hotels to prestigious international hotel chains. Budget Rent-a-Car SloveniaÂ offers Adria Airways customers the best deals on car rental in more than 3,400 destinations in 128 countries!

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Adria Airways

Ostale storitve/Other services

Prevoz tovora

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Blagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostno do vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjo računalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku. Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z veseljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovno najugodnejši poti. ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana – Prevoz tovora, telefon: 04 259 43 40, faks: 04 202 30 30, e-pošta: jp.cargo@adria.si

Cargo The Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high quality goods transport to every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with the help of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from reception to delivery. Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatch or deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.

Vzdrževanje letal Adrio Airways oziroma zaposlene v sektorju vzdrževanja letal odlikuje vrhunsko tehnično znanje, ki temelji na več kot 40-letnih izkušnjah vzdrževanja letal proizvajalcev McDonnel Douglas, Airbus in Bombardier. Vzdrževanje letal je ena izmed sekundarnih dejavnosti slovenskega letalskega prevoznika Adria Airways, ki pa s časom predstavlja vse večji delež prihodkov rednega delovanja družbe.

Aircraft maintenance

ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport, Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30, e-mail: jp.cargo@adria.si

Adria Airways maintenance staff have superlative technical know-how deriving from more than 40 years' experience in maintaining McDonnell Douglas, Airbus and Bombardier aircraft. Although aircraft maintenance is one of Adria's secondary activities, it is coming to represent an increasing share of the company's earnings.

Čarterski prevozi

Charters

Adria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in z vseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamo agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč. Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnost poletov. E-pošta: charter@adria.si

In addition to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flights from Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agencies, companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the European Union, we can also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies, companies and other carriers. Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services, high quality and punctuality. E-mail: charter@adria.si

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Si želite postati pilot letala ? Do you dream to be a pilot?

Uresničite svoje sanje in osvojite nebo! Conquer the sky and make your dreams come true!

Letalska šola Adria Airways nudi usposabljanje za sledeče programe: Flight School Adria Airways offers the following programs: PPL - Športni/zasebni pilot letala (Private Pilot Licence) PPL - Športni/zasebni pilot letala z nočnim pooblastilom (Private Pilot Licence with night qualification) CPL - Poklicni pilot letala (Commercial Pilot Licence) MEP - pooblastilo za večmotorna letala (Multi Engine Piston) IR/SE - Instrumentalno letenje/enomotorno letalo (Instrument Rating/Single Engine)

IR/ME - Instrumentalno letenje/večmotorno letalo (Instrument Rating/Multi Engine) MCC - Pooblastilo za več člansko posadko (Multi Crew Cooperation) ATPL - Prometni pilot letala (Airline Transport Pilot Licence) FI - Inštruktor letenja (Flight Instructor Raiting

www.adrialetalskasola.si letalska.sola@adria.si

Letalska šola

Flight School

Spoznajte letenje v virtualnem svetu z našimi odličnimi inštruktorji.

Learn to fly in a virtual world with our excellent instructors.

V simulatorju letenja – v 30 minutah za samo 49 EUR (ddv ni vključen v ceno) – boste spoznali osnove letenja. Za rezervacijo termina in dodatne informacije o obisku simulatorja pošljite email na naslov: dare.jarc@adria.si. Letenje je možno po plačilu vnaprej in predhodni rezervaciji termina.

In our flight simulator you can learn the basics of flying in just 30 minutes for a mere 49 euros (plus VAT). To book a session and for more information about a visit to the simulator, e-mail us at the following address: dare.jarc@adria.si. Booking essential. Payment in advance.

Avio taxi - Panoramski leti

Aviotaxi – Panoramic flights

Z letalom Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T s tremi sedeži za potnike lahko poletite do vseh večjih mest s špotnimi letališči v Sloveniji in do bližnjih letališč sosednjih držav. Za lete se lahko naročite po telefonu: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) ali 041 636 420 (tel. pilota).

Our Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T, with its three passenger seats, can fly you to all major towns with sports airfields in Slovenia and to nearby airports in neighbouring countries. To book flights, call us on: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) or 041 636 420 (pilot)

Uradni prevoznik dogodkov

Official events carrier

Kot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vse pogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, ki organizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodke tako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencem ter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da dogodek poteka uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno, varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliancea lahko za večje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt »Conventions Plus™«, v sklopu katerega postane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.si.

As a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, which increasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideally positioned to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and other international events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offering discounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. With a simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make sure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their destination on time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the Conventions Plus service for major international conferences, which effectively makes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event. For more information write to us at: events@adria.si.

Adria Airways

Klubi zvestobe/Loyalty Clubs Partnerska kartica Diners Club-Adria

Diners Club-Adria Partner Card

Potniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločite za skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabo partnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristite nagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles & More. Vsak porabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio in klubom Miles & More, prinaša imetnikom partnerske kartice pomembno dodatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Kartica pa vam odpira vrata in nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsem svetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačno prelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks. Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Passengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint Diners Club and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airways charge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other privileges in the Miles & More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. The agreement between Adria and Miles & More brings partner card holders an important additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the door to free services in more than 130 airport lounges around the world, where you can await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy a refreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes. Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

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Star Alliance Star Alliance partnerstvo

Star Alliance partnership

Adria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 49-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskem in rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra 2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemu združenju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa je napredovala v polnopravno članico združenja. Potnikom tako zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop do svetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi s partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 27 letalskih prevoznikov, ki z več kot 21.050 leti dnevno povezujejo 1167 destinacij v 181 državah. Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki člani Star Alliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa, vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviru programov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam na voljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star Alliancea Round the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih.

Adria Airways has more than 49 years of experience in operating both charter and scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process of European integration and have established partnership arrangements with other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined the Star Alliance, the world's largest airline alliance, as a regional member and she became a full member in January 2010. Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide Star Alliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a global network of flights on 27 airlines, which offer more than 21,050 flights daily serving 1167 destinations in 181 countries. Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliance member carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access, frequent flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced-price flights are available for numerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star Alliance Round-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adria sales outlet.

Dobrodošli v Miles & More Welcome to Miles & More Razlog več, da poletite z Adrio Airways

One more reason for flying Adria Airways

Adria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jim s tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.

Adria Airways is offering its frequent flyers the Miles & More programme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles on the entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduled routes are included in this network.

Prijava v klub

Club registration

V klub se lahko prijavite s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in v letalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria-airways.com na naših spletnih straneh.

You can join the club by filling in the registration form available at all sales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering on-line at our website, www.adria-airways.com.

Zbiranje milj

Collecting miles

Milje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Dodatne milje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, z najemom vozil, telefoniranjem, nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic. Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji bodo milje pridobili tudi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsak nakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam bo prinesel eno miljo. Milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club - Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Poleg zbiranja milj imajo člani Miles & More še dodatne ugodnosti, kot so prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage idr. Veljavnost zbranih milj je tri leta.

You can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collect additional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases at selected shops and using your credit cards. Miles & More members in Slovenia also receive miles when you use the Diners Club-Adria charge card. Every euro charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. In addition to collecting miles, Miles & More members enjoy additional benefits such as priority on waiting lists, excess baggage allowance and so on. Miles are valid for three years.

Koriščenje milj Zbrane milje lahko uporabite za številne nagrade: brezplačne vozovnice na progah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja, nakup različnih artiklov.

Using miles You can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: free tickets on Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel and various purchases.

Članske kartice Z včlanitvijo postanete član kluba in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženo število zahtevanih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višje nivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senator in HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženje milj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad.

Membership cards You become a club member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required number of miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silver member or Frequent Traveller, or gold member or Senator, or HON Circle Member. A higher level of membership offers you special benefits. Always have your membership card on hand, because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards.

Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance! Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member! Informacije o zbranih miljah, novostih v klubu, naročila nagradnih vozovnic in drugih nagrad v klicnem centru Miles & More dobite na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 ali na naslovu www.adria.si. Navesti morate člansko številko in PIN številko. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacije na voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.

For information on miles, Club news, to order free tickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440 or visit our website at www.adria-airways.com. You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN. We’ll be happy to take your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm, and service is also available in English and German outside these hours.

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Prodaja vozovnic in rezervacije Ticket Offices and Booking Klicni center: telefon 00386 (0)1 36 91 010 Brezplačna številka v Sloveniji: 080 13 00 w w w. a d r i a - a i r ways . c o m Adria Airways Zgornji Brnik 130h 4210 Brnik - Aerodrom Tel.: +386 (0)1 36 91 010 E-mail: booking@adria.si

Poslovalnice / Sales offices:

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LJUBLJANA Gosposvetska 6 1000 Ljubljana Klicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00 Tel.: +386 (0)1 23 91 910 Fax: +386 (0)1 23 21 668 E-mail: adr.gosposvetska@adria.si Letališče Jožeta Pučnika LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA Jože Pučnik Airport Adria Airways Sales Office Klicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00 Tel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245 Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461 E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.si AMSTERDAM Adria Airways, Netherlands P.O. Box 75644 1118 ZR Schiphol Triport Tel.: +31 20 625 11 22 Fax: +32 2 753 23 37 E-mail: adr.amstown@adria.si Airport Ticketing Desk Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Globeground Ticketing Desk Terminal 3, opposite check-in row 20 Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600 Fax: +31 20 79 52 601 E-mail: adr.amsariport@adria.si ATHENS Adria Airways, General Sales Agent K.G. KOMPAS GREECE, 572 Vouliagmenis Ave & Karaiskaki, 164 52 Athina Argiroupolis Tel.: + 30 21 09 94 7263, Fax: + 30 21 09 94 7288, E-mail: adr.athens@adria.si BARCELONA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Kompas Spain C/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a 08036 Barcelona Tel.: + 34 93 246 67 77 Fax: +34 93 245 41 88 E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.si BELGRADE Adria Airways Representative Office OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Airport “Nikola Tesla” 11180 Belgrade 59 Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457, 2286458, 2097457 E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me, adr.beograd@adria.si

BRUSSELS Adria Airways Brussels Airport – Box 4 1930 Zaventem Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336 Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337 E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.si Adria Airways Ticket Desk Airport Zaventem / Brussels Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 337 COPENHAGEN Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDEN Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78 Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Copenhagen Airport Terminal 2, Floor 2, Office 230 2770 Kastrup, Denmark Tel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si FRANKFURT Adria Airways Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1, Building 201 Room 201. 4043/4044 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721 Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730 E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Frankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall B Sales Desk 307 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722 ISTANBUL Adria Airways General Sales Agent Ordu Cad No. 206/1 34470 Laleli, Istanbul Tel.: +90 (0)212 51 24 232 Fax: +90 (0)212 51 24 234, 51 25 436 E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.si KIEV Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Chervonoarmijska st. 9/2 Office number 2 01004 Kiev, Ukraine Tel.: +38 044 287 07 47 Fax: +38 044 490 65 04 E-mail: jp.ukraine@aviareps.com Adria Airways Borispol International Airport Ticketing agent: Aquavita Tel.: +38 044 230 00 49, 230 00 50 Fax: +38 044 230 00 48 E-mail: adr.kievairport@adria.si

LONDON, MANCHESTER DUBLIN Adria Airways 49 Conduit Street London W1S 2YS Tel.: +44 (0)20 7 73 44 630, 7 43 70 143 Fax: +44 (0)20 7 28 75 476 E-mail: adr.london@adria.si

PODGORICA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Oki Air International Ivana Vujoševića 46 81000 Podgorica Tel.: +382 (0) 20 201 201 Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 241 154 Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

Adria Airways London Gatwick Airport Ticketing agent: Skybreak North Terminal, Zone A Tel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 07 182 Fax: +44 (0)12 9 36 09 010 Reservations: Tel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 55 707

Adria Airways Ticket Office Podgorica Airport OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 623 232 Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si

Flight Supervision: KLA Ltd. (Airline Services) Tel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 68 004 Fax: +44 (0)12 9 35 67 005 Mobil: +44 7 7810 88 00 77 MADRID Prosimo obrnite se na predstavništvo v Barceloni. Please contact our GSA in Barcelona. Tel.: + 34 91 575 0628

PRISTINA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Adria Airways Kosovo L. L. C Qamil Hoxha Nr. 12, 38000 Pristina Tel.: +381 (0)38 246 746 Tel. & Fax: +381 (0)38 246 747 Mobil: +377 44 16 50 84 E-mail: adr.pristina@adria.si Pristina Airport Ticket office Tel. & Fax 381 (0)38 54 84 37 Mobil: + 377 44 50 12 41

MOSCOW Adria Airways Derbenevskaja 4 113 114 Moscow Tel.: +7 495 727 08 85 Fax: +7 495 727 08 88 E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.si

SARAJEVO Adria Airways Representative and Information Ferhadija 23 71000 Sarajevo Tel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26 Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92 E-mail: adria@bih.net.ba

Adria Airways Sheremetyevo Airport 6th Floor, Room Nr. 42 (6.42) Tel.: +7 495 578 80 24

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Sarajevo International Airport Tel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331 E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.si

MUNICH Adria Airways Munich Airport, Terminal 2 Reisemarkt Süd Ebene 03, Raum 6738 (counter 355 & 356) 85356 München – Flughafen P.O. Box 241233, 85334 München Tel.: +49 (89) 97 59 11 91 Fax: +49 (89) 97 59 11 96 adr.munich@adria.si

SKOPJE Adria Airways General Sales Agent AAM dooel Ulica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/8 1000 Skopje Tel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975 Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531 E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.si

PARIS Adria Airways 94 rue Saint Lazare 75009 Paris Stopnišče A, II. nadstropje Staircase A, 2nd floor Tel.: +33 (0)1 47 42 95 00 Fax: +33 (0)1 47 42 00 67 E-mail: adr.paris@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Skopje Airport Tel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133 STOCKHOLM Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, Sweden Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 4778 Fax: +46 0)42 14 4778 Mobil.: +46 708 28 4778 E-mail: adr.stockholm@adria.si

TEL AVIV Adria Airways Mirus Services (1996) Ltd. General Sales Agent 8 Mendele Str. Tel Aviv 63432 Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161 Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895 Adria Airways Ticket Desk Ben Gurion Airport Laufer Aviation Ltd. Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300 Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022 TIRANA Adria Airways Albania Europian Trade Center Street bajram Curri No. 19 Town Office Tel.: +355 4 227 4666 Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666 Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614 Airport Tel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911 Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611 E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.si VIENNA Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office 1300 Vienna Airport Tel.: +43 (0)1 70 07 36 913 Fax: +43 (0)1 70 07 36 914 E-mail: adr.vienna@adria.si WARSAW Adria Airways, General Sales Agent GLOBAIR Polska Sp z o.o. Marszalkowska St. 28, office number 1U-35 Warsaw 00-576 Tel: +48 (022) 696 85 20 Fax: +48 ( 022) 696 85 24 Mobile: +48 606 12 319 E-mail: adr.warsaw@adria.si www.globairgroup.com ZAGREB Adria Airways Praška 9 10000 Zagreb Tel.: +385 (0)1 48 10 011, 48 10 016 Fax: +385 (0)1 48 10 008 E-mail: adr.zagreb@adria.si ZÜRICH Adria Airways Loewenstrasse 54/II. 8001 Zürich Tel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93 Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66 E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Zürich Airport Terminal B-2-521 Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437