Adria In-flight Magazine April, May 2010 by Adria Airways

VAŠ BREZPLAČNI IZVOD/YOUR PERSONAL COPY

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine april, maj • April, May 2010

Pošta Postal Service Sunita L. Williams Beograd • Belgrade

Svetloba drugih dni • The Light of Other Days Svojemu ritmu so sledili v Slovenijo • They Followed Their Beat to Slovenia Po pravljičnih poteh v zgodovino • Fairy-Tale Paths into History Muzej pošte • The Post Office Museum

Lovrenc Košir Antarktika • Antarctica

{ Predsednikovo pismo } Spoštovane potnice in potniki!

Dear passengers,

Prisrčno pozdravljeni na krovu letala Adrie Airways, slovenskega nacionalnega prevoznika.

Adria Airways, the Airline of Slovenia, welcomes you aboard.

Hvala vam za zaupanje. Želim vam prijeten let in vas prijazno pozdravljam.

The last two years have set a negative record for the aviation industry, with the biggest fall in international air transport since the Second World War. The crisis in which the aviation industry has found itself is a consequence of the recession that has affected the global economy. This situation was announced by the financial crisis in 2009 and the extreme price fluctuations in global fuel markets a year before this. According to the forecasts of the International Air Transport Association (IATA), this is a period that will affect airlines selectively. Only those airlines that manage to adapt and consolidate themselves in good time will survive and remain in the market. Adria has already faced difficult operating conditions during the past year. Despite this, it has been able to follow the specific objectives it set itself in the years of economic growth. Our operations have been more efficient than those of certain other comparable European airlines. Just as we have done in the past, we are now demonstrating that we are capable of adapting and succeeding in altered conditions. We realise that it is not possible to survive with old, established models of operation and we have therefore adopted a new strategy for the next five years. This includes the extreme rationalisation of operations within the company, the control and management of costs, and maximum effort to ensure competitiveness in the region. We intend to reorganise the company by individual strategic units, where each unit will have to operate according to market criteria and ensure its own survival. We have also come up with a series of traditional commercial measures including adaptation of flights and aircraft to market demand, a wide range of campaigns designed to attract new passengers, and increased marketing of our media. The financial crisis by no means represents a complete halt in Adria’s development. This year our fleet is joined by two new Airbus A319 aircraft. We are also continuing the construction of a third hangar. Our school of aviation continues to be very active, widening its activities and providing instruction on new aircraft. For all these reasons I am convinced that, with the help and efforts of all the staff at Adria, we will adapt well to the changes in a constantly changing business environment and weather the crisis successfully. Our expectations for the summer season remain optimistic. In early March we reintroduced our Belgrade service. Adria now generates a third of all traffic in the Balkans and thus facilitates the traditionally good connections between South Eastern Europe and Western Europe. On 28 March we switched to our summer timetable, which once again contains a number of new features, in particular the resumption of flights to established summer destinations such as Athens, Barcelona, Madrid, Manchester and Oslo. More information is available at our points of sale, or visit our website at www.adria.si, where you will also find information about our other offers. foto: Dean Dubokovič

Zadnji dve leti preživlja letalska industrija neslavno obdobje. Zabeležen je namreč največji padec mednarodnega letalskega prometa po drugi svetovni vojni. Kriza, v kateri se je znašla letalska industrija, je nastopila kot posledica recesije, ki je zaznamovala svetovno gospodarstvo. Tako stanje sta predhodno že napovedovali finančna kriza v letu 2009 in ekstremne cene goriva na svetovnih trgih še leto prej. Po napovedih združenja letalskih prevoznikov IATA bo to obdobje selektivno vplivalo na letalske družbe. Preživele in ostale bodo na trgu le tiste, ki se bodo uspele pravočasno notranje prilagoditi in konsolidirati. Adria se je v preteklem letu že soočila z oteženimi okoliščinami poslovanja. Navkljub temu je znala slediti določenim ciljem, ki si jih je zastavila v letih gospodarske rasti. Naše poslovanje je bilo učinkovitejše, kot so ga beležile nekatere druge primerljive letalske družbe v evropskem prostoru. Tako kot v preteklosti tudi sedaj dokazujemo, da se znamo prilagoditi in uspeti v spremenjenih razmerah. Zavedamo se, da s starimi in ustaljenimi vzorci poslovanja ni možno preživeti, zato smo za prihodnjih pet let postavili novo strategijo. Ta zajema tako skrajno racionalizacijo poslovanja v podjetju, nadziranje in obvladovanje stroškov kot tudi maksimalen trud za zagotavljanje konkurenčnosti v regiji. Namen imamo reorganizirati podjetje po posameznih strateših enotah, kjer bo morala vsaka od enot poslovati po tržnih kriterijih in si zagotoviti svoje preživetje. Poleg tega imamo pripravljene tudi klasične komercialne ukrepe – od prilagoditev letov in letal povpraševanju na trgu do najrazličnejših akcij za pridobivanje novih potnikov ter povečanega trženja naših medijev. Vsekakor pa zaradi finančne krize ne bomo povsem zaustavili razvoja našega podjetja. Tako tudi letos dopolnjujemo floto z dvema novima airbusoma A-319. Nadaljujemo z gradnjo tretjega hangarja, zelo dejavna pa je tudi naša letalska šola, ki prav tako širi svoje aktivnosti in poučuje na novih letalih. Zaradi vsega tega sem prepričan, da se bomo s pomočjo vseh zaposlenih v Adrii dobro prilagodili spremembam v vedno znova spreminjajočem se poslovnem okolju in uspeli prebroditi krizo. Tudi naša pričakovanja za poletno sezono ostajajo optimistična. V začetku marca smo začeli ponovno leteti v Beograd. Adria tako ustvari na Balkanu že tretjino vsega prometa in s tem omogoča tradicionalno dobre povezave jugovzhodne Evrope z zahodno. Z 28. marcem smo ponovno prešli na poletni vozni red, ki zopet prinaša nekaj novosti, predvsem začenjamo spet z leti na naše že ustaljene poletne destinacije, kot na primer v Atene, Barcelono, Madrid, Manchester in Oslo. Več informacij vam je na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih ter spletnih straneh www.adria.si, kjer vas obveščamo tudi o vseh drugih ugodnostih.

Thank you for choosing Adria Airways. I wish you a pleasant flight.

Mag. Tadej Tufek,

Tadej Tufek, MSc

predsednik uprave

Chairman of the Management Board & CEO

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Vsebina/Contents 30

Adrijina potnica/Adria Passenger

Sunita L. Williams Sunita L. Williams Katra Terlep

Beograd/Belgrade

»Nizkobudžetni New York« “A low budget New York!” Dora in Domen Pal

Janez Pukšič

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine Revija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary on Adria Airways flights.

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Izdajatelj/Published: Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d. Adria Airways The Airline of Slovenia Kuzmičeva 7, 1000 Ljubljana Uredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc Bukovec Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4541 E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.si Urednica / Edited by: Meta Krese Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka Dvoršak Tel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4526 E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.si Oblikovanje in AD /Design and AD: LUKS Studio Prevod /Translated by: Amidas Lektorica/Language editing: Vera Samohod Fotoliti /Lithography: Schwarz d.o.o. Tisk /Printed by: Schwarz d.o.o.

ISSN 1318-0789

Svetloba drugih dni/The Light of Other Days

Podobe iz globin časa Images from Deep Time Michael Benson

Ljubljana

Svojemu ritmu so sledili v Slovenijo They Followed Their Beat to Slovenia Wes Eichenwald

Slovenija/Slovenia

Po pravljičnih poteh v zgodovino Fairy-Tale Paths into History Irena Cerar

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Pošta/Postal Service

Muzej pošte in telekomunikacij v Polhovem gradcu The Post Office and Telecommunications Museum in Polhov Gradec Branko Čeak

Lovrenc Košir, pobudnik poštne znamke Lovrenc Košir, the Inventor of the Postage Stamp Srečko Beričič

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo. The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publ isher accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. Brezplačen izvod /Your personal copy

Ovitki prvega dne First Day Covers Tomaž Zajc

Antarktika/Antarctica

Med pingvini Among Penguins Živa Flisar

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Adria Airways Novosti/News Poletni vozni red

Foto: A. Kersnič

28. marca smo prešli na poletni vozni red, ki ostaja v veljavi do 30. oktobra 2010. V tem obdobju vam Adria Airways ponuja več kot 250 poletov na teden iz Ljubljane na več kot 25 evropskih destinacij, lete Frankfurt–Dunaj ter v sodelovanju s partnerji Star Alliancea možnost potovanja po vsem svetu. V poletnem voznem redu 2010 smo ponovno vzpostavili poletne redne povezave z Atenami, Barcelono, Madridom, Dublinom, Manchestrom in Stockholmom. V sodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami vas s čarterskimi poleti vabimo v priljubljene počitniške destinacije: v Egipt – Sharm el Sheik in Hurgado –, na grške otoke Kreto, Rodos, Kos, Santorini, Karpatos, Mikonos, Kefalonijo, Krf, Zakintos, Skiatos, Samos, Chios, Mitilini, Lefkas in Tasos, v Španijo na Palmo de Mallorco, Ibizo in Tenerife, na Djerbo v Tuniziji ter v Turčijo in na Malto.

Summer timetable (6)

The summer timetable goes into effect on 28 March and will apply until 30 October 2010. During that period, Adria Airways offers you more than 250 flights a week from Ljubljana to more than 25 European destinations, flights from Frankfurt to Vienna, and, in partnership with the Star Alliance partners, the possibility of travelling all around the world. The 2010 summer timetable once again introduces scheduled summer flights to and from Athens, Barcelona, Madrid, Dublin, Manchester and Stockholm. In cooperation with tourist agencies, we invite you to take a summer charter flight to popular holiday destinations: to Sharm el Sheik and Hurghada in Egypt; to the Greek islands of Crete, Rhodes, Kos, Santorini, Karphatos, Mykonos, Cephalonia, Corfu, Zakynthos, Skiathos, Samos, Chios, Mytilene, Lefkas and Thasos; to Palma de Mallorca, Ibiza and Tenerife in Spain, to Djerba in Tunisia, as well as to Turkey and Malta.

Hoteli Na Adrijini spletni strani smo pred kratkim dodali zavihek, ki vam omogoča rezervacijo ugodne hotelske namestitve po celem svetu. Zelo enostavno: obiščite www.adria.si, poiščite zavihek »Hoteli« in izberite destinacijo po vaši izbiri. Na voljo je nekaj deset tisoč hotelskih objektov na vseh kontinentih, od tistih z eno zvezdico do prestižnih mednarodnih hotelskih verig.

Hotels We have recently added a tab to Adria’s website that enables you to book hotel accommodation throughout the world at favourable rates. Simply visit www.adria-airways.com, click on the “Hotels” tab and choose your destination. Choose from among tens of thousands of hotels on every continent, ranging from one-star hotels to prestigious international hotel chains.

Novi letali Airbus A-319 Aprila in maja pričakujemo v naših vrstah dve novi letali: floti Adrie Airways se bosta pridružili letali tipa Airbus A-319. Za omenjeni tip letala smo se odločili iz več razlogov. Med najpomembnejše pa gotovo sodijo: optimalno število sedežev za srednje velikega letalskega prevoznika, kot je Adria, ohranjanje flote družine A-320, kar pomeni, da ni potrebno posebno izobraževanje posadk in vzdrževalno tehničnih služb, in na splošno nižji stroški vzdrževanja. Letalo je prijazno do okolja in ima manjšo porabo goriva ter precej velik dolet. Letali bosta opremljeni z najsodobnejšo elektronsko navigacijsko opremo, ki bo omogočala varnejše letenje v vseh pogojih. To seveda predstavlja večjo možnost prodaje. Letalo A-319 ustreza tudi visokim standardom varovanja okolja, saj so pri njem izpusti CO2 v ozračje in hrup manjši od dovoljenih mednarodnih omejitev. Pa navedimo še nekaj tehničnih podatkov: Adrijina airbusa bosta sprejela na krov vsak po 135 potnikov. Dolžina letala znaša 33,84 m, višina 11,76 m, razpon med krili pa je 34,10 m. Letalo doseže višino 11.700 m, njegova maksimalna hitrost je 900km/h. Dolet letala je 6.650 km, kar pomeni, da lahko leti iz Ljubljane vse do Dubaja brez postankov. Zadovoljni smo, da bomo potnikom omogočili letenje z novimi, sodobnimi letali na naših številnih evropskih povezavah.

New Airbus A319 aircraft In April and May we are due to take delivery of two new aircraft as the Adria Airways fleet is joined by two Airbus A319 aircraft. There were several reasons behind the choice of this particular model. Among the most important are the fact that the A319 has an optimal number of seats for a medium-sized carrier like Adria, the fact that it is part of the A320 family, which means that no special training is required for crews and maintenance/technical services, and generally lower maintenance costs. The aircraft is environmentally friendly, with low fuel consumption and an impressive range. The aircraft will be fitted with the latest electronic navigation equipment, enabling safer flying in all conditions. This, of course, also increases their resale value. The A319 also meets high environment protection standards, with CO2 emissions and noise below the permitted international limits. Technical specifications: passenger capacity – 135; overall length – 33.84 metres; height – 11.76 metres; wingspan – 34.10 metres. Cruising altitude is 11,700 metres and maximum cruising speed is 900 km/h. The A319 has a range of 6,650 kilometres, which means that it can fly non-stop from Ljubljana to Dubai. We are pleased to be able to offer our passengers the chance to fly in these new, modern aircraft as part of our numerous European services.

Aktualne ponudbe/Latest Offers V vsaki številki revije vas bomo seznanjali z najnovejšimi ugodnimi ponudbami, ki jih za vas pripravljamo skozi vse leto. / We will keep you up to date with our latest special offers in each issue of the magazine. Special offers are available throughout the year.

Dvojno nagrajevanje v programih zvestobe na letih med Ljubljano in Beogradom S 1. marcem smo ponovno vzpostavili eno prvih rednih prog Adrie Airways. Z letoma JP 800 in JP 801 povezujemo Ljubljano z Beogradom 6-krat tedensko. Preko Ljubljane omogoča uvedba nove proge tudi odlično povezavo med Beogradom in ostalimi Adrijinimi destinacijami v Evropi – z Amsterdamom, Brusljem, Dunajem, Kopenhagnom, Frankfurtom, Londonom, Muenchnom, Parizom, Stockholmom, Varšavo in Zuerichom. Za polete na novi progi vas v programih zvestobe nagrajujemo dvojno. V programu Adria Corporate Card poteka dvojno nagrajevanje samodejno in velja do 31. maja 2010. Za dvojne milje v okviru Miles&More programa v času akcije, ki traja do 31. avgusta, pa se je potrebno prijaviti preko www.adria.si.

Double rewards on our new scheduled service between Ljubljana and Belgrade We have re-launched one of Adria Airways’ first ever scheduled routes, LjubljanaBelgrade. Flights JP 800 and JP 801 connect Ljubljana and Belgrade six times a week. The new route offers excellent connections – via Ljubljana – between Belgrade and other Adria destinations in Europe: Amsterdam, Brussels, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, London, Munich, Paris, Stockholm, Vienna, Warsaw and Zürich. Loyalty card holders can double their points when using flights on the new route. In the Adria Corporate Card programme, double points will be awarded automatically for the flights till 31st of May 2010. For the Miles&More programme double miles will be available for the period till 31st of August 2010 to any member registering for the offer. Register on www.adria-airways.com.

Adria Outlet in ostale posebne ponudbe Adrie Airways na spletu Outlet _inflight:Layout 1

19.5.2008

14:15

Page 1

V Adria Outletu vas čakajo priložnosti za nakup enosmernih vozovnic po posebno ugodnih cenah. Tiste, ki se radi prepuščate hitrim odločitvam in se zlahka pustite zapeljati, bo prebudila pestra ponudba naših destinacij. Ne spreglejte tudi ostalih posebnih ponudb in bodite stalno obveščeni, zato nas redno obiskujte na www.adria.si.

Adria Outlet and other Adria Airways special offers online The Adria Outlet gives you the chance to buy one-way tickets at specially reduced prices. If you are the sort of person who likes to decide on the spur of the moment and is easily tempted, you will find plenty to interest you in our wide range of destinations. Don’t miss our other special offers – keep up to date by visiting

www.adria-airways.com.

Delujem ekonomično, potujem poslovno! Za nakup letalske vozovnice vsaj sedem dni pred začetkom vašega potovanja vam za ceno potovanja v ekonomskem razredu nudimo polet v poslovnem. Ponudba velja za nakup vozovnice v ekonomskem razredu po najvišji ceni. Edina omejitev je nakup vozovnice najmanj sedem dni pred odhodom; spremembe rezervacij so brezplačne.

Varčujem, a ne na račun kakovosti! Več o ponudbi preberite na www.adria.si ali pa pokličite tel. št. 080 13 00.

Work economically, travel in business! When you buy a ticket at least 7 days in advance, you can travel in business class for the price of an economy class fare. This offer applies to economy class tickets purchased at the highest rate. The only restriction is that you must purchase your ticket at least 7 days before you travel. Changes to the reservation can be made free of charge.

Savings, no change in quality! For more information visit www.adria-airways.com or call us on 080 13 00.

Adrijine E-novice Vabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavite na Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o naših novostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenih informacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic. Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!

Adria E-news Why not visit our website www.adria-airways.com and subscribe to Adria’s E-news service? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and special offers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuable source of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.

Let information be your advantage!

BEOGRAD– LJUBLJANA– AMSTERDAM

MADRID– LJUBLJANA– SKOPJE

MOSKVA– LJUBLJANA– SARAJEVO

EUR 234

EUR 255

EUR 418

LJUBLJANA– ATENE

EUR 198

Letališke takse in pristojbine so vključene v ceno. Strošek rezervacije ni vključen. / All taxes, fees are included in the price. Reservation Service Fee is not included. More info at www.adria-airways.com

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{ Adria Airways }

Kako postati

pilot letala? Besedilo: Bojan Kadunc, inštruktor poklicnih pilotov

o je zagotovo vprašanje, ki si ga pogosto zastavljajo številni kratkohlačniki, ko zroč v nebo opazujejo velike srebrne ptice, ki

visoko na nebu puščajo za seboj bele sledi.

li pa na bližnjem športnem letališču z občudovanjem gledajo postavne mladce, kako hitijo s pripravo jadralnih letal, motornih zmajev in podobnih letalnih naprav, da bi čim hitreje poleteli v nebo in izkoristili ugodne vremenske razmere za nabiranje prvih izkušenj na krilih vetra. Mogoče pa si podobno vprašanje kdaj zastavijo tudi petični gospodje srednjih let. Ti morda celo razmišljajo o nabavi lastnega letala, ki bi jih ob vse večjih zaporah in gnečah na cesti hitreje pripeljalo do večjih in bolj oddaljenih mest po opravkih ... Ko sem pred leti v jutranjih urah poslušal radio, so v kontaktni oddaji poslušalci odgovarjali na podobno vprašanje voditelja – kako najhitreje postaneš pilot. Pa je neki nadobudnež odgovoril, da je najbolje iti na Ljubljansko barje, kjer te ob gradnji hiše zabijejo v ilovico in tako postaneš »pilot«, ki skrbi za temelje novega poslopja. Pa dajmo šalo na stran in poskušajmo odgovoriti na dokaj tehtno vprašanje, ki se vse pogosteje poraja tudi v glavah ljudi, ki jih ne zanimajo golf, tenis ali jahte, ampak bi radi postali privatni, kasneje pa morda celo poklicni piloti. V Sloveniji je kar nekaj aeroklubov, ki ponujajo mo-

Foto: A. B.

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žnost, da ukaželjen kandidat postane pilot manjšega športnega letala. Je pa tudi nekaj večjih letalskih šol, ki nudijo možnost usposabljanja za pridobitev dovoljenja za poklicnega pilota letala. Pa si pobližje oglejmo, kako približno poteka tako usposabljanje za privatnega pilota letala, ki so pri nas najštevilčnejši. Vsak kandidat mora najprej dobrih 120 ur presedeti v šolski klopi, kjer se seznani z osnovami letenja in meteorologije, spozna zgradbo letala in njegove sisteme, letalne lastnosti in načrt letenja, človeške zmogljivosti in omejitve. Nekaj mora vedeti tudi o navigaciji, da se med letom nad neznanimi kraji ne izgubi. Poznati mora letalsko zakonodajo, predpisane operativne postopke, pravila komunikacije v zraku in ne nazadnje vse o splošni varnosti letenja. Ko je glava polna vsega tega znanja, se lahko prične praktično usposabljanje z inštruktorjem na letalu. Zakonodajalec je sicer predvidel tudi možnost, da kandidat prične s praktičnim usposabljanjem tudi brez te »nepotrebne« teoretične navlake. Vendar te možnosti iz izkušenj ne priporočam posebno rad, saj ima inštruktor letenja mnogo več dela s teoretično nepodkovanim kandidatom, ki morda ne ve niti tega, da mora pred prvim samostojnim poletom opraviti tudi zdravniški pregled pri posebej pooblaščenem zdravniku. V vsakem primeru pa je priporočljivo, da vsak letalski navdušenec opravi zdravniški pregled, preden se prvo učno uro usede z inštruktorjem v letalo, če seveda tega ni storil že pred pričetkom teoretičnega usposabljanja. Če se namreč po mukotrpnem sedenju v šolski klopi in približno dvajsetih urah letenja z inštruktorjem izkaže, da zdravstveno stanje kandidata ne ustreza predpisanim kriterijem, so bili ves trud in stroški letalskega nadobudneža zaman ... Pa v nadaljevanju pokukajmo v pilotsko kabino malega šolskega letala in poglejmo, kako potekajo prve učne ure. Seveda se morata kandidat in inštruktor pred vsako tako uro usesti za skupno mizo in v klepetu, ki se mu v slovenščini učeno reče priprava na let, angleško pa je to briefing, obdelati in razčistiti vse podrobnosti elementov leta, ki jih bosta v načrtovani vaji praktično obdelovala med letom. Včasih je veljalo pravilo, da kar znaš na zemlji za pet (5), velja v zraku za slabo trojko ali pa še manj. Izkušnje kažejo, da je temu res tako. Med praktičnimi vajami v zraku je namreč toliko raznovrstnih motenj, ki vplivajo na kandidatovo zbranost, da le-ta včasih pozabi še, kako mu je ime, saj so njegovi možgančki preveč obremenjeni z drugim delom. Pravzaprav ni to nič čudnega, ko pa je toliko novega v kratkem času. Pa še tretja dimenzija, ki je običajni zemljani niso vajeni, pa pogovor s kontrolo letenja in turbulenca, ki začetniku

Foto: A. B.

onemogoča, da bi ga letalo bolj ubogalo. Inštruktor mora biti res pravi mojster, da kandidatu naloži samo toliko dela in novosti, kot jih zmore, sicer se namen učne ure lahko kaj hitro sfiži. Ker pa vaja dela mojstra in ne obratno, bo kandidat po nekaj ponovitvah vsakega njenega elementa že lahko obvladal letalo do te mere, da ga bo ubogalo in peljalo v želeni smeri in na določeni višini. Potem sledijo zavoji, ki jih najprej pokaže inštruktor, kandidat pa bolj ali manj uspešno ponovi. Pa spuščanja in dviganja letala v dani smeri in zavojih ... A kdo bi našteval vse te manevre, ki jih mora kandidat obvladati najprej v pilotažni coni, preden se loti resne konstrukcije tako imenovanega šolskega kroga, kjer se nauči pravilno vzletati in pristajati! Vsekakor je najbolj zahteven manever samo pristajanje, saj je potrebno letalo pripeljati na točno določeno točko pristajalne steze, na pravi višini in smeri. Zato se ti elementi vadijo bolj na koncu, ko kandidat že obvlada letalo in pogovor s kontrolo letenja, ki zna biti včasih tudi resen problem. Inštruktor mora s kandidatom obdelati tudi vse postopke za varen pristanek v primeru odpovedi kakega sistema ali motorja in ga seznaniti s postopki pri pristanku izven območja letališča. Ko oceni, da so elementi, ki sta jih vadila v coni in po šolskem krogu, izvedeni znotraj standardnih norm, pripravi kandidata na prvi samostojen polet, ki je za vsakogar svojevrstno doživetje in si ga običajno tudi zapomni. Saj poznate tisto: Prvega ne pozabiš nikoli! Nato sledijo samostojni poleti v coni in šolskih krogih. Pri tem dobi kandidat občutek samozavesti, ko sam vodi letalo. Po nekaj takih letih sledi ponovno »mučenje« z inštruktorjem, tokrat spoznava veščine navigacijskega leta. Najprej v bližini matičnega letališča, nato pa leti vse dlje in tudi na druga, bolj oddaljena letališča. Ko to obvlada do te mere, da se v zraku ne zgubi, se na polet po domovini odpravi sam. Med temi vajami mora opraviti najmanj en samostojen polet v dolžini vsaj 270 km z vmesnima pristankoma na vsaj dveh letališčih. Ko si tako nabere najmanj 45 ur skupnih izkušenj v zraku, je običajno goden za opravljanje praktičnega izpita z izbranim izpraševalcem, vendar ta ne sme biti inštruktor, ki ga je usposabljal. Ko uspešno prestane tudi to preizkušnjo, od Direktorata za civilno letalstvo prejme dovoljenje privatnega pilota in lahko samostojno leta po širnem svetu ...

How do You Become a Pilot? Text: Bojan Kadunc, Flight instructor

his is a question asked by many a young boy as he gazes up at the great silver birds leaving white trails behind them high in the sky. Or as he watches the young men at the local sports airfield prepare their gliders, ultralights and similar flying machines in order to take off as quickly as possible and take advantage of the favourable weather conditions and get their first experiences on the wings of the wind. Wealthy middle-aged men perhaps ask themselves a similar question, and even consider buying their own aircraft, to beat the ever-increasing traffic delays and get them more quickly to bigger, more distant cities on business... I remember, years ago, listening to a talk show on the radio one morning, where the presenter asked listeners what was the quickest way to become a pilot. One wag replied that the best thing to do was to go to the Ljubljana marshes and get them to drive you into the mud to serve as a pilot supporting the foundations of a house (a pun on the fact that pilot means both “pilot” and “pile” in Slovene). Joking aside, however, let us try and give a serious answer to a question that is increasingly being asked by people who are not interested in golf, tennis or sailing but would like to become private or perhaps even professional pilots. There are quite a number of aero clubs in Slovenia that offer you the chance to learn to fly a light aircraft. There are also some larger flying schools that offer the training necessary to obtain a professional pilot’s licence. But let us look more closely at the

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Foto: A. B.

{ Adria Airways }

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training required to become a private pilot, the commonest type. Every candidate must first spend a good 120 hours in the classroom, learning about the principles of flying and meteorology, the parts of the aircraft and its systems, flight performance and planning, and human performance and limitations. Candidates also need to learn something about navigation so as not to get lost when flying above unfamiliar areas. They need to be familiar with aviation law, prescribed operating procedures, communication procedures and, last but not least, everything about general aviation safety. Once they have taken in all this knowledge, they can begin practical training with an instructor. Although the law does actually allow the candidate to begin practical training even without this “unnecessary” theoretical baggage, I would not recommend it. The flying instructor’s job is much harder when a candidate has no theoretical knowledge and may not even know that he is required to undergo a medical examination by a specially authorised doctor before making his first solo flight. I would always recommend every aviation enthusiast to undergo a medical examination before strapping himself into the aircraft for his first lesson with an instructor, if not indeed even before beginning theory training. After all, if after long hours in a classroom and roughly 20 hours of flying with an instructor it turns out that the candidate’s state of health does not meet the prescribed criteria, all the effort of the aspiring pilot – not to mention the costs – will have been in vain. But let us peep into the cabin of a small trainer aircraft and find out what happens in the first lessons. Before every lesson, the candidate and the instructor sit down together for a briefing, during which they discuss all the elements that they plan to work on during the practical exercise. Sometimes it turns out that an aspect you have thoroughly mastered on the ground causes you unexpected difficulties once you are up in the air. Experience shows that this is often the case. During practical exercises in the air there are so many different distractions affecting the candidate’s concentration that sometimes he will even forget his own name: his brain is too busy with other things. This is hardly surprising, when there are so many new things to learn in such

a short time. Another dimension that ordinary mortals are not used to is talking to air traffic control. And then there is turbulence, which makes it difficult for the beginner to get the aircraft to do what he wants. The instructor has to be very careful not to introduce more new elements than the student can cope with at one time, otherwise the lesson can quickly go wrong. Practice makes perfect, however, and after a few repetitions of each new element the candidate is able to control the aircraft to the extent of making it obey him and carry him in the desired direction at the correct altitude. Then come turns, which are first demonstrated by the instructor, after which the candidate tries to repeat them. And then climbing and descending, in a given direction and when turning... A long list of manoeuvres that every candidate first has to master in the instruction zone before getting to grips with the training circuit, where candidates learn how to take off and land correctly. The most difficult manoeuvre is without a doubt the landing, because the pilot needs to bring the aircraft to a precisely determined point on the runway, at the right altitude and pointing in the right direction. For this reason training in these elements takes place towards the end of the course, when the candidate has already mastered the controls of the aircraft and communicating with air traffic control, which can sometimes be quite a serious problem. The instructor also has to teach the candidate all the procedures necessary to ensure a safe landing in the case of failure of a system or engine, and familiarise him with the procedures involved in an off-airport landing. Once the instructor considers that all the elements that he has practised with the candidate both in the instruction zone and around the training circuit have been carried out within the standard norms, he prepares the candidate for his first solo flight. This is a unique experience for every trainee pilot, and one that they tend to remember. As the saying goes: you never forget your first! This is followed by solo flights in the zone and training circuits. Through this process, the candidates gain confidence in flying the aircraft alone. After a few of these flights, it is time for the instructor to climb aboard again, this time for navigation training. Starting in the vicinity of the home airfield, and then moving further afield and even to other, more distant airfields. When the candidate has a sufficient mastery of navigation not to get lost in the air, he sets off for a solo flight around the country. These exercises must include at least one solo flight of at least 270 kilometres, including landings at at least two intermediate airfields. After accumulating a minimum of 45 hours total flying time, the candidate is usually ready to take a practical test with his chosen examiner, who must not be the instructor that has trained him. If he passes this test, he receives a Private Pilot’s License from the Civil Aviation Directorate which entitles him to fly solo anywhere in the world...

{ Adria Airways & partnerji v projektih } Adria Airways & project partners

Svetovno prvenstvo v hokeju na ledu, Divizija I, skupine B

Hokejska Slovenija si želi med elito 17.–23. april

Med 17. in 23. aprilom bo v Ljubljani potekal največji športni dogodek letošnjega leta v sloveniji: svetovno prvenstvo v hokeju na ledu, divizije I, nekdanje skupine B. Slovenska hokejska reprezentanca pod vodstvom ameriškega stratega Johna Harringtona se bo ponovno poskusila uvrstiti med elito svetovnega hokeja, v skupino A. Na prvenstvu bodo poleg Slovenije sodelovale še reprezentance Poljske, Hrvaške, Madžarske, Koreje in Velike Britanije. Samo zmagovalec bo napredoval razred višje. Slovenska hokejska reprezentanca je v elitni A skupini do zdaj nastopala petkrat in se dvakrat uspela v njej tudi obdržati. Vse tekme se bodo odvijale v dvorani Tivoli v Ljubljani. Če bo dvorana polna, si bodo hokejski navdušenci lahko ogledali tekme tudi na velikem ekranu pred njo na spodnjem platoju – v tako imenovani »navijaški vasi«. Igralci bodo po tekmi prišli pozdravit tudi navijače zunaj dvorane.

Men's World Ice Hockey Championships, Division I, Group B

Slovenia’s ice hockey players want to join the elite

17–23 April The biggest sporting event of the year in Slovenia takes place in Ljubljana between 17 and 23 April: the Men’s World Ice Hockey Championships, Division I, Group B. Under their US coach John Harrington, Slovenia will once again try for a place among the world ice hockey elite, in Group A. The other teams in the group are Poland, Croatia, Hungary, South Korea and Great Britain. Only the winner will move up to Group A. Slovenia have appeared in the elite Group A five times to date, twice managing to keep their place in the group. All the matches will be played in Ljubljana’s Tivoli Hall. If the hall is full, hockey fans will also be able to watch the matches on a giant outdoor screen in the Supporters’ Village. Players will greet fans outside the hall after matches.

Kultura ima vedno svoje mesto

Festival Ljubljana 2010

Foto: Alberto Venzago

6. julij–26. avgust

Valerij Gergijev

Culture always has its place

Ljubljanski poletni festival predstavlja vrhunec kulturne in umetniške ponudbe v slovenski prestolnici. Letos poteka že 58. leto zapored in vabi v Ljubljano svetovno znane umetnike: Mariinsko gledališče iz Sankt Peterburga, ki bo pod vodstvom Valerija Gergijeva izvedlo operno predstavo R. Straussa Žena brez sence, Londonski simfonični orkester, skladatelja Michaela Nymana, Münchenske filharmonike – izvedli bodo Haydnovo Stvarjenje, Akademski državni balet Borisa Eifmana iz Sankt Peterburga, ki se bo predstavil z baletnima predstavama Ana Karenina in Ruski Hamlet, Béjart Balett iz Lozane s predstavo Balet za življenje (kostumografija predstave je delo Giannija Versaceja) in orkester Sinfonia Varosvia. Gostili bomo tudi izjemne soliste, med katerimi naj omenimo pianiste Iva Pogorelića, Martina Stadtfelda, Denisa Macujeva in Elisso Bolkvadze, violiniste Sergeja Hačatrijana, Vadima Repina in Lano Trotovšek, našo svetovno priznano mezzosopranistko Marjano Lipovšek v operni predstavi P. I. Čajkovskega Pikova dama in mnoge druge. Poletje bomo zaključili s Pandurjevim Hamletom, z Blanco Portillo v naslovni vlogi. Na Festivalu bo tudi veliko komornih koncertov, muzikal, pester pa bo tudi spremljajoči program: Film pod zvezdami v sodelovanju s Kinodvorom, likovna kolonija, razstave … Več na: www.ljubljanafestival.si ali na +386 1/ 241 60 00..

Ljubljana Festival 2010

6 July to 26 August The Ljubljana Summer Festival is the highlight of the cultural and artistic life of Slovenia’s capital city. This year’s 58th edition of the festival brings world-famous artists to Ljubljana: the Mariinsky Theatre from St Petersburg (with a performance of Richard Strauss’s opera Die Frau ohne Schatten conducted by Valery Gergiev), the London Symphony Orchestra, the composer Michael Nyman, the Münchner Philharmoniker (with a performance of Haydn’s oratorio The Creation), the Eifman Ballet of St Petersburg (with the ballets Anna Karenina and Russian Hamlet), the Béjart Ballet Lausanne (with a performance of Ballet for Life, with costumes by Gianni Versace) and the Sinfonia Varsovia. The festival programme also includes outstanding soloists, among them pianists Ivo Pogorelić, Martin Stadtfeld, Denis Matsuev and Elisso Bolkvadze, violinists Sergey Khachatryan, Vadim Repin and Lana Trotovšek, world-famous Slovene mezzo-soprano Marjana Lipovšek (in Tchaikovsky’s opera The Queen of Spades) and many others. The summer will end with Tomaž Pandur’s Hamlet, with Blanca Portillo in the title role. The festival will also feature a large number of chamber concerts and musicals and a rich and varied accompanying programme: Cinema under the Stars (in conjunction with Kinodvor), an artists’ colony, exhibitions, and so on. For more information: www.ljubljanafestival.si or +386 1/ 241 60 00.

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Kostanjevica na Krki, Galerija Božidar Jakac, v Lamutovem likovnem salonu, do 25. aprila

Razstava del Dragice Čadež iz njenega zadnjega obdobja

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Akademska kiparka Dragica Čadež je gotovo ena redkih žensk kipark v Sloveniji; je nagrajenka Prešernovega sklada, zaslužna profesorica Univerze v Ljubljani ter prejemnica nagrade za življenjsko delo v vzgoji in izobraževanju. Bila je prva ženska kiparka s habilitacijo profesorice za kiparstvo v Sloveniji. Njen opus je obsežen, sklenjen, celovit in razvojno pregleden. Celotno kiparsko delovanje je pravzaprav Zgodba o drevesu. To je fascinanten in edinstven kiparski razvoj v lesu, ki mu je Dragica Čadež posvetila svoje ustvarjaje. Opus sestavljajo številni razvojno logično povezani cikli, ki si sledijo, se medsebojno tako vsebinsko kot konstrukcijsko dopolnjujejo in skupaj izgrajujejo izjemno moč likovnega razvoja umetnice. Dragica Čadež se skozi analizo skulptur izkaže kot velika ustvarjalna osebnost druge polovice 20. stoletja, ki svoje delo uspešno nadaljuje še danes. Kot ženska kiparka je skozi svoja dela sooblikovala slovensko likovno in kulturno zgodovino ter ustvarila neprecenljiv opus kiparskih del, ki gotovo sodijo v sam vrh kiparskega ustvarjanja pri nas. Ustvarjanje akademske kiparke Dragice Čadež je dolga in obsežna kiparska pripoved. Njeno delo in ustvarjanje lahko razdelimo na tri enakovredna in obsežna področja: kiparstvo predvsem v lesu pa tudi v bronu, kamnu oziroma v trdnih materialih, nato kiparstvo v glini, mehkem in voljnem materialu, ki se strjuje šele skozi postopek dela, in seveda pedagoška dejavnost. Kiparsko ustvarjanje se udejanja skozi številne skulpture, povezane v razvojno, strukturno in vsebinsko jasno urejeno sosledje kipov, razporejenih v pregleden, z veliko delovno energijo prežet opus. Tega sestavljajo cikli del, kjer kiparka dokazuje natančno poznavanje strukture materialov (predvsem lesne mase, ki jo raziskuje celo do skrajnih izraznih možnosti). Les obdeluje s pogostimi rezi, prerezi, gubanjem, odpiranjem (razkolom) in zapiranjem (združevanjem) mase, z geometrijskimi elementi in njihovimi medsebojnimi odnosi, plastenjem in povezovanjem kompaktnih ali pa razredčenih (v letve povezanih) struktur. V umetniškem razvoju se je občasno posvečala tudi oblikovanju kipov v cementu, mavcu, kamnu in bronu, po letu 2000 pa se je močneje posvetila umetniškemu ustvarjanju v glini. dr. Sarival Sosič Kostanjevica na Krki, Božidar Jakac Gallery, Lamut Art Salon, until 25 April

Exhibition of recent works by Dragica Čadež

The academy-trained sculptor Dragica Čadež, one of the few female sculptors working in Slovenia, is a Prešeren Fund award-winner, an emeritus professor of the University of Ljubljana, and the recipient of a lifetime achievement award for her work in education. She was the first woman in Slovenia to reach professorial rank in the field of sculpture. Her considerable oeuvre is self-contained, integrated and transparent in terms of development. The whole of her work in sculpture can actually be summed up by the title Story of a Tree. This refers to the fascinating and unique development of sculpture in wood, to which Dragica Čadež has devoted much of her creative attention. Her work consists of several logically connected series that follow each other, complement each other in terms of content and structure, and together build the extraordinary power of the artist's artistic development. Analysis of the sculptures of Dragica Čadež reveal her to be one of the great creative figures of the second half of the 20th century, who continues to work successfully today. As a female sculptor she has helped shape the artistic and cultural history of Slovenia through her work and created an invaluable oeuvre that without a doubt belongs among the very finest achievements in Slovene sculpture. Dragica Čadež's creative career is a long and wide-ranging sculptural narrative. Her

work can be divided into three broad areas of equal importance. These are: sculptures mainly in wood but also in bronze and stone, in other words in hard materials; sculptures in clay, a soft and supple material that only hardens through the process of being worked; and, of course, her teaching work in which she has been able to fulfil and challenge herself and, above all, pass on her knowledge to young people. Her work in sculpture realises itself through numerous works connected in a developmental sequence that is clearly ordered in terms of structure and content and arranged to form an oeuvre imbued with great industry and energy, consisting of series of sculptures in which Čadež demonstrates her exact knowledge of the structure of materials (above all wood, which she has explored to the very limits of its expressive possibilities). She works wood by cutting, sectioning, folding, opening (splitting) and closing (combining) the material, incorporating geometric elements and the relations between them, layering and connecting, and making use of either compact or rarefied structures (in the latter case by connecting slats of wood). Over the course of her artistic development she has also occasionally worked in cement, plaster, stone and bronze, while since 2000 she has increasingly worked in clay. Sarival Sosič www.galerija-bj.si

Idrija, Mestni muzej, Razstavišče Nikolaja Pirnata v gradu Gewerkenegg, od 13. maja do 10. junija

Slikarska dela Garyja Bukovnika

Gary Bukovnik je rojen po drugi svetovni vojni v Clevelandu, v San Franciscu živi več kot 25 let. Njegova stara starša, oba Slovenca, sta se spoznala v ZDA, potem ko sta prišla tja z različnih koncev Slovenije. Njegove slike odkupujejo priznane ameriške galerije, veliko njegovih del pa je v zasebnih zbirkah. V enem od intervjujev je priznal, da je odraščal v prepričanju, da je »čistokrven« Američan. Kako zelo je Slovenec, je spoznal leta 1990, ko je prvič obiskal Slovenijo. Da se v njegovih delih zrcali srčno in s čustvi nabito vzhodnoevropsko razmišljanje, pa je vedel ves čas. Tehnika, v kateri ustvarja, je akvarel, izdeluje tudi skulpture in monotipije. Motivi rezanega cvetja so kakor njegov prstni odtis. Glede na to, da je bilo slikanje rož po mnenju nekaterih vedno problematično, saj so rože same po sebi lepe, se je v začetkih slikarskega ustvarjanja bojeval s svojim notranjim čustvom in željo. Ko se je prepustil dejstvu, da riše cvetje in da je to izbralo njega, je odkril samega sebe. V organizaciji Slovenske izseljenske matice je Bukovnik razstavljal leta 1994. Njegova velika želja je bila, da se z novimi deli po dolgem času ponovno predstavi v domovini svojih starih staršev. Njegova novejša dela izžarevajo svežino, tihožitje je v gibanju. Rezano cvetje v njegovih delih diha, živi, se giblje. V sklopu svojega gostovanja v Sloveniji se bo udeležil tudi Slikarske kolonije Združenja Slovenska izseljenska matica, na Javnem skladu za kulturne dejavnosti pa bo imel v četrtek, 10. junija, tudi javno predavanje o tehniki, v kateri dela.

{ Art & Culture } Maribor, Fotogalerija STOLP, od 28. aprila do 22. maja

Zmago Jeraj, fotografije

Prešernov nagrajenec akademski slikar Zmago Jeraj doživlja fotografijo izključno kot eno od tehnik likovnega izražanja, s pomočjo katere lahko zabeleži podobe vsakdana, bodisi z dokumentarnim ali izpovednim značajem, velikokrat pa tudi v smislu pripravljalnih skic za slikarske upodobitve. Umetnikovi priljubljeni motiviki krajina in veduta se pojavljata tako v fotografijah kot tudi v likovnih delih v klasičnih tehnikah, pri čemer se urbanizirana okolja pogosto prepletajo z naravo, še posebej v intimnih izrezih dvorišč z vrtovi, parkih s klopcami, mestnih drevoredih ipd. Četudi je Jeraj večino novejšega fotografskega opusa posnel v domačem Mariboru in okolici, še posebej na Piramidi, Kalvariji, v Mestnem parku in mestnih ulicah, celo neposredno iz lastnega stanovanja, si je prizadeval ohraniti anonimnost ali bolje univerzalnost prizorišč v skladu s svetovljanskim pogledom na svet. Najnovejši fotografski ciklus, ki ga Zmago Jeraj predstavlja v mariborski Fotogaleriji Stolp, nosi naslov Piramidarjenje, pri čemer v kompozicijo vključuje tudi osamljene sprehajalce, fotografirane v hrbet, ujete v trenutku oddaljevanja oziroma simboličnega odhajanja v neskončnost. Tako se Jerajeva fotografija znova navezuje na sočasno figuralno likovno produkcijo, prehajajoč iz nekdanje ekspresivnosti zmeraj bolj v mistični nadrealizem.

in his photographs and in his paintings, with urban environments frequently intertwining with nature, particularly in intimate details of courtyard with gardens, parks with benches, tree-lined avenues, and so on. Although the majority of Jeraj's recent photographs were taken in his native Maribor and the surrounding area – in the Piramida and Kalvarija hills, the City Park, city streets or even directly from his own apartment – he has endeavoured to preserve the anonymity or, better, the universal-

Maribor, Stolp Photogallery, 28 April to 22 May

ity of the scenes, as befits his cosmopolitan worldview. His most recent series of

Zmago Jeraj, photographs

photographs, presented at the Stolp photogallery in Maribor, is entitled Piramidarjen-

The Prešeren Prize-winning academy-trained painter Zmago Jeraj experiences pho-

je. The composition of the photographs includes solitary walkers photographed from

tography exclusively as one of the techniques of artistic expression with the help

behind, caught in the moment of moving away or a symbolic departure for infinity. In

of which he is able to record images of everyday life, be they of documentary or

this way, Jeraj's photographs are once again tied to his contemporary figural work,

personal character, and very often in the sense of preparatory sketches for his paint-

passing from his former expressiveness to an increasingly mystical surrealism.

ings. The artist's favourite subjects, the landscape and the cityscape, appear both

www.galerijastolp.si

Idrija, Nikolaj Pirnat Exhibition Gallery at Idrija Museum, Gewerkenegg Castle, 13 May to 10 June

Paintings by Gary Bukovnik

Gary Bukovnik was born after the Second World War in Cleveland, Ohio and has lived in San Francisco for over 25 years. His grandparents, both Slovenes, met in the USA having emigrated there from different parts of Slovenia. His paintings are bought by prestigious American galleries and many of his works hang in private collections. He once admitted in an interview that he grew up believing himself to be a "pure" American. It was not until he visited Slovenia for the first time, in 1990, that he realised just how Slovene he really is. That his works contain a heartfelt and emotionally charged Eastern European form of reflection is something that he has known all along. His favoured technique is watercolour painting, although he also makes sculptures and monotypes. Cut flowers are his signature subject. In view of the fact that for many people painting flowers has always been problematic because flowers are beautiful in themselves, in the early days of his painting career he fought with his inner feelings and desires. Once he had reconciled himself to the fact that he draws flowers and that this was the subject that had chosen him, he discovered himself. In 1994 the Slovene emigrants' association Slovenska Izseljenska Matica organised an exhibition of Bukovnik's work. Since then it has been his great wish to return to his grandparents' homeland with a new set of paintings. His recent works radiate freshness and a sense of still life in movement. The cut flowers in his works breathe, live and move. During his visit to Slovenia he will also take part in the Art Colony organised by the Slovenska Izseljenska Matica. On Thursday 10 June, at the Public Fund for Cultural Activities, he will be giving a public lecture on the technique in which he works. http://www.garybukovnik.com/

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Ljubljana, Križanke, Channel Zero, AKC Metelkova mesto, Klub Cankarjevega doma, CUK Kino Šiška, od 19. do 25. maja

26. mednarodni festival Druga godba

Odre Druge godbe bodo zasedali še: ruski punk šansonjerji La Minor, marsejski šarmer Nevchehirlian z mešanico elektroakustičnega slama in sodobne poezije, londonska energetska latino bomba Peyoti for President, prekmurski glasbeni sadež ŠKM Banda, posladkan z Mlado Beltinško bando premierno z novim albumom, urbani puščavski rock trio Dirtmusic na čelu s Chrisom Eckmanom ter Tamikrest, pravi nasledniki tuareških magov Tinariwen, ki bodo kajpak združili moči tudi z Dirtmusic. V spremljevalnem programu bo Druga godba ponudila delavnice s Tanyo Tagaq, Nevchehirlianom in Wimmejem, filmski program ter program za otroke. Ljubljana, Križanke, Channel Zero, AKC Metelkova Mesto, Klub Cankarjev Dom, CUK Kino Šiška, 19 to 25 May

Druga Godba, 26th International Festival

This year's Druga Godba, Ljubljana's traditional spring festival, is all about Voices and features vocalists from the widest variety of musical genres and geographical origins. From the Far North of the planet, from the Nunavut territory of Canada, comes Tanya Tagaq, a brilliant Inuit throat singer with a unique voice who has worked with Björk and garnered enthusiastic reviews in The New York Times. Her most recent album features collaborations with Mike Patton. The festival also features another hero of the North, an artist who has performed with Tagaq in the past. Wimme, who hails from romantic Finnish Lapland, today lives in Karelia, but he still performs the traditional yoik of the Sami. Both Tanya Tagaq and Wimme

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will be accompanied by bands. Two other vocalists appearing at the festival are the Vienna-based Slovene singer Maja Osojnik, who will present her new album Črne vode, and of course one of the true stars of the festival, the world's most popular fado singer and global singing star Mariza, with her band. Since her memorable appearance in Ljubljana three years ago, Mariza has released a new album Terra Tanya Tagaq

and appeared in the world's most prestigious concert venues. Her second performance in Ljubljana features an exclusive guest, the Cape Verdean singer, pianist and

Tradicionalni pomladanski festival Druga godba bo letos v znamenju Glasov. Soočili se bomo z vokalisti najrazličnejših glasbenih zvrsti in geografskih porekel. Tako bo prišla s skrajnega severa tega planeta, iz pokrajine Nunavut, ki je del Kanade, sijajna Inuitka z neponovljivim glasom – ime ji je Tanya Tagaq. To je glasbenica, ki je navdušila Björk in New York Times, zadnji album pa posnela v sodelovanju z Mikeom Pattonom. S Tanyo je že pred leti nastopal še en junak Severnih obzorij, ki prihaja iz romantične Dežele Samijev. Wimme sicer danes živi v Kareliji, a še vedno izvaja tradiocionalno petje staroselcev joik. Tako Tanya Tagaq kot Wimme bosta nastopila s spremljevalnima zasedbama. Nastopili pa bosta še dve vokalistki: na Dunaju živeča Slovenka Maja Osojnik, ki bo predstavila nov album Črne vode, in seveda prva zvezdnica festivala, najpopularnejša pevka fada in globalna pevska zvezda Mariza s svojo skupino. Po nastopu v Ljubljani pred tremi leti, kjer je očarala občinstvo, je Mariza izdala nov album Terra ter nastopila tako rekoč na vseh vidnejših koncertnih prizoriščih tega planeta. Posebnost njenega drugega nastopa v Ljubljani bo ekskluziven gost, pevec, pianist in skladatelj z Zelenortskih otokov Tito Paris, ki je sodeloval z Marizo pri zadnjem albumu in je avtor številnih pesmi, ki jih poje Cesaria Evora. Mariza bo odprla letošnjo Drugo godbo, že naslednji dan pa bo s prestola etiopskega glasbenega kraljestva za nastop v Križankah sestopil Mahmoud Ahmed pevec, ki je proslavil zlata leta etiopske muzike; ta je danes, okroglih 40 let po nastanku, iskana kot suho zlato tako med organizatorji koncertov, njihovimi posredniki in klubskimi didžeji kot tudi med številnimi glasbeniki in umetniki vseh zvrsti. Ahmedu se bo na odru pridružil tudi etiopski James Brown, kot imenujejo pevca Alemayehuja Esheteja. Oba pevca bo spremljal naelektreni bretonski bend Badume.

composer Tito Paris, who worked with Mariza on her last album and is the writer of several songs performed by Cesária Évora. Mariza will open this year's Druga Godba. The following day Mahmoud Ahmed, the king of Ethiopian music, will descend from his throne to perform in Križanke. Ahmed was one of the biggest stars of Ethiopian music's golden age. Forty years later, this music is like gold dust and in great demand among concert promoters, booking agents and club DJs on the one hand, and among musicians and artists of all genres on the other. Ahmed will be joined on stage by the "Ethiopian James Brown" as the singer Alemayehu Eshete is known. The two singers will be accompanied by Badume's Band from Brittany. Other artists taking the stage at Druga Godba include: Russian punk chansonniers La Minor, Marseille-born charmer Nevchehirlian with a blend of electroacoustic slam and contemporary poetry; the energetic Latino bomb of London's Peyoti for President; the musical fruit of the ŠKM Banda from Slovenia's Prekmurje region, sweetened by the Mlada Beltinška Banda – with the premiere performance of their new album; the urban desert rock trio Dirtmusic fronted by Chris Eckman, and Tamikrest, the spiritual sons of Touareg magicians Tinariwen, who will also be joining forces with Dirtmusic. The accompanying programme will include workshops with Tanya Tagaq, Nevchehirlian and Wimme, a programme of films and the children's programme. www.drugagodba.si

{ Art & Culture } Beaux-arts ter s slovenskmi premodernimi umetniki. Naziv kiparskega festivala in 10-dnevnega rezidenčnega ustvarjanja je »Hibridni objekt«, v prihodnjih štirih letih pa se bo festival programsko razvijal kot povezovanje in sodelovanje umetnikov ter galerij in muzejev, tako držav članic EU kot tudi bodočih držav, s poudarkom na državah z Balkana. V Muzeju premoderne umetnosti, ki je za javnost odprt vse dni v tednu, razen ponedeljka in torka, se bodo v aprilu zvrstili raznovrstni kulturni dogodki, od samostojne razstave skrbnika, umetnika in kuratorja Muzeja premoderne umetnosti, Tomaža Dernovška – Vinčija, do celotedenskega evropskega volunterskega tabora ter likovnih ustvarjalnih delavnic z zavodom PUM – »projektno učenje mladih«. V muzeju bo s svojo monokomedijo gostoval tudi Kabaret Simplozij nagrajenca letošnjega Prešernovega sklada, Andreja Rozmana–Roze. Spodnji Hotič, Museum of Too Modern Art

Discover too-modern art in the heart of Slovenia!

The Museum of Too Modern Art is a former barn converted into a gallery space.

Spodnji Hotič, Muzej premoderne umetnosti

Odkrijte premoderno umetnost v srcu Slovenije!

Muzej premoderne umetnosti je v galerijski prostor predelan nekdanji hlev, ki se nahaja v srcu Slovenije, v bližini Geometričnega središča Slovenije, v vasici Spodnji Hotič. Le 30 kilometrov vzhodno od slovenske prestolnice je za svoja premoderna umetniška dela našla izredno zanimiv in inovativen sodobni razstavni prostor sedmerica sodobnih likovnih umetnikov iz petih evropskih držav. Muzej premoderne umetnosti postaja rezidenčni center za slovenske in tuje sodobne likovne umetnike omogoča jim skupinsko rezidenčno bivanje, ustvarjanje in razstavljanje nastalih del. Tako bo 22. maja otvoritev velike skupinske razstave mladih gostujočih umetnikov, ki sodelujejo z galerijo Študentskega kulturnega centra v Beogradu (SKC) in skupino nadarjenih umetnikov s pariške Akademije

It is located in the heart of Slovenia, close to the geometric centre of the country, in the village of Spodnji Hotič. Just 30 kilometres to the east of Slovenia's capital, a group of seven contemporary artists from five European countries have found a very interesting and innovative modern exhibition space for their too-modern works of art. The Museum of Too Modern Art is developing into a residential centre for contemporary artists from Slovenia and other countries, and a place where they can live, work and exhibit as a group. On 22 May the gallery opens a large group exhibition by young visiting artists connected with the gallery of the Student Cultural Centre in Belgrade and a group of gifted artists from the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, alongside Slovene too-modern artists. The title of the Museum's festival of sculpture and 10-day residential programme is "Hybrid Object". Over the next four years the festival programme will develop in the direction of interconnection and cooperation among artists, galleries and museums both from EU countries and from future EU members, with an emphasis on the Balkans. The month of April will see a varied series of cultural events at the Museum of Too Modern Art (open to the public every day of the week except Mondays and Tuesdays). These range from a solo exhibition by the caretaker and curator of the museum Tomaž Dernovšek-Vinči, to a week-long European volunteer camp and creative workshops with the PUM organisation (project learning for young people). The museum will also host the solo comedy Kabaret Simplozij by the winner of this year's Prešeren Fund Award, Andrej Rozman-Roza. www.premoderno.com.

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{ Umetnost & kultura } Bistra pri Vrhniki, Tehniški muzej Slovenije

Stalne in občasne zbirke

techniques used by our ancestors as they went about

museum has prepared an exhibition that will lead visi-

their everyday business. The months of April and May

tors through the life and history of these mysterious

are a particularly good time to visit the museum if you

animals in Slovenia.

are an animal lover or science enthusiast, with two

The now traditional Days of Electrical Engineering,

temporary exhibitions opening on 22 April. The visiting

at which researchers, professors and students from

exhibition Scientists in Slovakia has been prepared

the University of Ljubljana's Faculty of Electrical Engi-

by the Technical Museum of Košice (Slovakia) in con-

neering present interesting experiments will take place

junction with the National Museum of Slovakia. The

from 4 to 9 May.

exhibition presents scientists who have contributed to

www.tms.si

the development of world science and technology. The other temporary exhibition this year takes a close look at the lynx. In collaboration with wildlife experts, the

Bistra pri Vrhniki, Technical Museum of Slovenia

Permanent and temporary collections

If you are interested in knowing what sort of cars people once drove, how our grandmothers baked bread, how clothes were made or how our ancestors caught fish, you will find the answers to these and many other questions in Slovenia's largest museum, located in an idyllic setting just 20 kilometres from the noise and bustle of the city. Hidden behind the walls of a labyrinthine former monastery are permanent collections and temporary exhibitions covering agriculture, transport, forestry, the timber industry, hunting, fishing, textiles, printing and electrical engineering. If seeing the museum collections is not enough for you, you can take part in Saturday workshops or watch Sunday demonstrations of the old machinery, tools and

Foto: Miha Krofel

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Če vas zanima, s kakšnimi avtomobili so se včasih vozili, kako so naše babice pekle kruh, s čim so tkale obleke ali kako so naši predniki lovili ribe, boste našli odgovore na ta in še mnoga druga vprašanja v največjem slovenskem muzeju, ki se nahaja v idiličnem okolju le dvajset kilometrov od mestnega vrveža. Med samostanskimi zidovi in mnogimi hodniki se skrivajo stalne zbirke ter občasne razstave s področja kmetijstva, prometa, gozdarstva, lesarstva, lovstva, ribištva, tekstila, tiskarstva in elektrotehnike. Če vam ogled muzejskih zbirk ni dovolj, se lahko pridružite sobotnim delavnicam in nedeljskim prikazom delovanja starih strojev, tehnik ter načinov dela z orodji, ki so jih naši predniki uporabljali pri vsakdanjih opravilih. Aprila in maja bodo še posebno navdušeni ljubitelji živali in znanosti, saj bodo 22. aprila odprli dve občasni razstavi. Gostujočo razstavo Znanstveniki na Slovaškem je pripravil Tehniški muzej iz Košic v sodelovanju s Slovaškim narodnim muzejem. Na razstavi so predstavljeni znanstveniki, ki so prispevali k razvoju svetovne znanosti in tehnologije. Prav posebno pozornost pa bodo v letošnjem letu namenili risu. V sodelovanju z zunanjimi strokovnjaki so pripravili razstavo, ki bo obiskovalce popeljala skozi življenje in zgodovino teh skrivnostnih živali na Slovenskem. Že tradicionalni Dnevi elektrotehnike, na katerih raziskovalci, profesorji in študenti s Fakultete za elektrotehniko Univerze v Ljubljani predstavijo zanimive eksperimente, bodo potekali od 4. do 9. maja.

{ Art & Culture } National Museum of Slovenia, Study collections

History and applied arts

After almost 200 years of collecting objects made and used in Slovenia that are characteristic of this country and important to Slovenes, a permanent study exhibition of selected material has been open to the public since 2008. The exhibition can be viewed in the new building acquired by the National Museum of Slovenia (the main building of the National Museum is on Prešernova, next to the parliament building, and contains the permanent exhibition dedicated to the earliest periods of history) in the former army barracks on Metelkova, where it rubs shoulders with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum, the Museum of Modern Art, Kinoteka and the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Heritage of Slovenia. In the National Museum building (a total of almost 4,000 square metres), the basement is used as storage space, the glass-fronted extension contains restoration workshops and a lecture room, the ground floor is used for temporary exhibitions, and the two upper floors house the permanent exhibition of study collections. On the first floor, visitors can learn about the development of chairs, cupboards, clocks and lamps in Slovenia from the 16th century onwards and view collections of

Narodni muzej Slovenije, študijske zbirke

Zgodovina in uporabna umetnost

Po domala dvesto letih zbiranja vsakovrstnih predmetov, ki so se izdelovali in uporabljali na naših tleh in so značilni in pomembni za Slovenijo in Slovence, je od leta 2008 odprta stalna študijska razstava izbranega gradiva. Na ogled je v novi stavbi, ki jo je Narodni muzej Slovenije (poleg matične palače na Prešernovi ulici poleg Parlamenta, v kateri je stalna razstava najzgodnejših obdobij) pridobil v nekdanji vojašnici na Metelkovi, ter ob sosedih: Slovenskem etnografskem muzeju, Moderni galeriji, Kinoteki in Zavodu za varovanje kulturne dediščine Slovenije. V stavbi Narodnega muzeja Slovenije (skupaj skoraj 4.000 m2) je klet namenjena depojem, zastekljeni prizidek restavratorskim delavnicam in predavalnici, pritličje občasnim razstavam, obe nadstropji pa stalni razstavi študijskih zbirk. V prvem nadstropju se obiskovalci lahko seznanijo z razvojem sedežnega in shrambnega pohištva ter ur in svetil v Sloveniji od 16. stoletja naprej, s pivskim posodjem in drugimi muzealijami iz stekla, keramike in porcelana, z devocionalijami in zapuščino telovadca Gregorke. V drugem nadstropju so študijske zbirke starega orožja in kovin, sakralnega tekstila in igrač, zapuščina sabljača Cvetka, ter slikarska zbirka, dopolnjena z izbranimi glasbenimi inštrumenti. Na razstavi je okrog petnajst odstotkov vsega gradiva, za katerega skrbi Oddelek za zgodovino in uporabno umetnost, to je nekaj več tisoč muzealij, ki jih izmenjujemo s tistimi iz depojev. Sprehod skozi zbirke je zanimiv prav za vsakogar. Avtentične muzealije govorijo o načinih življenja in dela na Slovenskem v zadnjih petih stoletjih ter o ustvarjalnosti in spretnosti naših prednikov in so neizčrpen vir navdiha za nove generacije. Mnogi eksponati so povezani z znamenitimi možmi in ženami ter z mesti, vasmi in gradovi po vsej državi. Pred obiskovalcem se razprostre izjemna pestrost zvrsti, oblik in okrasov, materialov in tehnik izdelave, ki so se spreminjali skozi kulturno zgodovino od gotike, renesanse, baroka, rokokoja in klasicizma do empira, bidermajerja, historizma, secesije, art dekoja in modernizma.

drinking vessels and other objects made of glass, ceramics and porcelain, religious objects and items connected with the famous gymnast Boris Gregorka. The second floor contains study collections of old weapons and metalwork, vestments, toys, items connected with the Olympic fencer Rudolf Cvetko and a collection of paintings complemented by selected musical instruments. The exhibition includes around 15% of all the material in the care of the Department for History and Applied Arts: several thousand objects that are periodically exchanged with others from the repositories. A walk through the collection is interesting experience for everyone. Authentic museum pieces tell us about how people lived and worked in Slovenia during the last five centuries, and about the creativity and skills of our ancestors. They are also an inexhaustible source of inspiration for new generations. Many exhibits are links to famous men and women, and to towns, villages and castles in various parts of the country. Visitors are faced with an extraordinary variety of types, forms and styles of decoration, materials and techniques of manufacture that have changed over the course of cultural history from Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassicism, to the Empire style, Biedermeier, Historicism, the style of the Vienna Secession, Art Deco and Modernism. www.narmuz-lj.si

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{ Umetnost & kultura }

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Barcelona, Fundacija Joan Miró Dela Joana Mirója Fundacija ima veliko zbirko slik iz različnih obdobij Mirójevega življenja. Razstavljena dela ponazarjajo razvoj njegove umetnosti od študija v Barceloni in prvih stikov z avantgardami zgodnjega 20. stoletja do časa, ki ga je preživel v Parizu, in povezav z nadrealisti, njegove odzive na špansko državljansko vojno in 2. svetovno vojno pa vse do dokončne utrditve njegovega izjemno osebnega sloga. Mirójeva umetnost se je v zadnjih letih njegovega življenja pretežno izražala skozi slike velikega formata in razkriva globlje zanimanje za čisto barvo ter gib, ne da bi se umetnik pri tem odrekel svoji liričnosti in kompozicijski strogosti. Prav to obdobje je v zbirki najbolj zastopano, saj je umetnik Fundaciji podaril dela, ki jih je imel ob njeni ustanovitvi v svojem ateljeju. Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado Richard Hamilton: Picassove Menine Do 30. maja Leta 1973 je Richard Hamilton (rojen v Londonu leta 1922), ustanovitelj poparta, izdelal mapo z naslovom V počastitev Picassa. Picassove Menine v spomin temu španskemu umetniku so Velázquezovo slavno delo pretvorile v Picassov slog. Razstava predstavlja različne faze ustvarjanja Hamiltonove grafike, mapa pa je razstavljena skupaj s podobnimi umetniškimi vajami na podlagi Velázquezove Las Meninas, ki se jih je leta 1778 loteval Goya. Picassova risba iz avgusta 1957, prva iz Picassove serije na temo Velázquezovih slik, predstavlja povezovalni člen med Velázquezom, Goyo in Hamiltonom. Dunaj, MUMOK Spreminjanje kanalov: Umetnost in televizija 1963–1987 Do 6. junija Razstava Spreminjanje kanalov raziskuje, kako se je umetnost v obdobju od šestdesetih do osemde-

setih let zrcalila v televiziji kot množičnem mediju in črpala navdih iz njega. Predstavlja dela, ki razkrivajo naraščajoč pomen ter gospodarske, tehnološke in družbene mehanizme tega medija, postavljena pa je prav v zgodovinskem trenutku, ko televizija znova doživlja korenite spremembe, kar nas sili k celovitemu pregledu razmerja med umetnostjo in vlogo medijev v javni sferi. Pariz, Fondation Cartier Beat Takeshi Kitano: Gosse de peintre Do 12. septembra Beat Takeshi Kitano se je z veseljem, humorjem in resnostjo lotil Gosse de peintre, nenavadnega projekta, ki prefinjeno, a predrzno prebiva v kraljestvu otroštva. Umetnik je razstavo v celoti pripravil sam. S slikami in videi, osupljivimi predmeti ter ozadji, prismuknjenimi in domišljijskimi stroji popelje Kitano obiskovalca skozi presenečenja, humorne vložke in igre, ob vsem tem pa se norčuje iz sodobne umetnosti, eksperimentira z znanjem in se poigrava s klišeji, povezanimi z njegovo državo. »S to razstavo sem poskušal razširiti opredelitev ‚umetnosti‘, da bi postala manj uradna, manj konvencionalna, manj snobovska, bolj vsakodnevna,« je povedal umetnik. Amsterdam, Cobra Museum Johannes Schwartz: Strast Do 24. maja Johannes Schwartz predstavlja nov niz fotografij z naslovom Strast. V zadnjem letu je fotografiral pred kratkim zapuščeno hišo. Rezultat je niz filmu podobnih trenutkov v resnobni notranjosti, ki je videti, kot bi ostala nespremenjena od petdesetih let naprej. Pohištvo in predmeti so odraz osebnosti nekoga, ki je v tej hiši preživel mnogo let. Beograd, Muzej sodobne umetnosti Zbirka nove medijske umetnosti Zbirka obsega širok časovni razpon od izjemno dragocenih fotografskih

eksperimentov beograjskih nadrealistov iz začetka tridesetih let (fotograme Vaneta Živadinovića Bora in Marka Ristića) do umetniške fotografije in konceptualne umetnosti ter še naprej do nove medijske umetnosti. Zbirka predstavlja konceptualno umetnost v Jugoslaviji prek mnogih pomembnih del, med katerimi so najpomembnejši video performansi Marine Abramović (Osvobajanje spomina, 1976) in Raše Todosijevića (Was ist Kunst, 1978), foto dokumentacija projektov skupine OHO, foto performansi in filmi Neše Paripovića (Primeri analitične skulpture, 1977; Ritem, 1981), dela Braca Dimitrijevića, Zorana Popovića, Gorana Trbuljaka, Balinta Szombathyja in drugih. Področje video umetnosti obsega dela Sanje Iveković, Daliborja Martinisa, Zorana Todorovića, Milice Tomić in drugih. Zbirka vsebuje tudi prvi spletni umetniški projekt v Srbiji, delo z naslovom Absolutna prodaja društva Apsolutno.

Bruselj, Kraljevi muzej likovne umetnosti Marc Mendelson Do 30. maja Razvoj Marca Mendelsona, rojenega v Londonu leta 1915, zaznamujejo štiri pomembnejša obdobja: »Jeune Peinture Belge« (1945–1948), abstrakcija (petdeseta leta), matiérisme (šestdeseta leta) in s prehodom na akvarel (1970–1996) vrnitev k figurativnemu izrazu. Z oddaljitvijo od magičnega realizma je umetnik ustvaril poetično geometrično abstrakcijo, občutljivo na površinske variacije in materialnost. Mendelson je vedno iskal prefinjeno bistvo. Njegovo odkritje Španije, ujete med zemljo, morje in nebo, je pomembno zaznamovalo njegovo delo. Muzej sodobne umetnosti je združil pisano paleto slik, akvarelov, risb, fotografij, predmetov, arhitekturnih instalacij in arhivskih dokumentov ter tako ustvaril portret umetnika, zaznamovanega z neizrekljivo umetniško poetiko.

Skopje, Muzej sodobne umetnosti Zbirka Nacionalna zbirka muzeja nam omogoča spremljanje razvoja upodabljajoče umetnosti v Makedoniji z vsemi njenimi posebnimi značilnostmi, ki se je začel nekje sredi 20. stoletja, ko so na prizorišče stopili sodobni umetniki prve generacije – utemeljitelji moderne makedonske umetnosti: Dimitar Pandilov, Lazar Licenoski, Nikola Martinoski in Dimo Todorovski –, pa vse do generacij umetnikov, ki so se pojavili po 2. svetovni vojni, med njimi pa so: Dimitar Kondovski, Risto Lozanoski, Petar Mazev, Dušan Percinkov, Rodoljub Anastasov, Tanas Lulovski, Jordan Grabuloski, Aneta Svetieva, Dimitar Manev, Gligor Stefanov, Petre Nikoloski, Blagoja Maneski in Jovan Šumkovski.

München, Alte Pinakothek Plemeniti gostje – mojstrovine in bremenske Kunsthalle Do 1. februarja 2011 V Alte Pinakothek je na razstavi pet del iz bremenske Kunsthalle. Med njimi je »Madonna dell’Umilità« iz leta 1423, ki jo je naslikal florentinski slikar Masolino da Panicale. To je najzgodnejše delo tega umetnika in podobno kot njegovo približno dvanajst let starejše delo podobne velikosti in na enako temo, ki se hrani v Münchnu, razkriva slogovni vpliv mednarodnega gibanja gotske umetnosti na umetnika. Obe deli, razstavljeni skupaj, sta prava senzacija, saj sta edini Masolinijevi sliki, ki ju lahko najdemo po muzejih v Nemčiji.

{ Art & Culture } Barcelona, The Joan Miró Foundation Works by Joan Miró. Paintings The foundation has a large collection of paintings from all periods of Miró’s life. The works exhibited show the development of his art from his training in Barcelona and first contact with the avant-garde artists in the early twentieth century, the time spent in Paris and his links with the Surrealists, his reactions to the Spanish Civil War and the Second World War, to the final consolidation of his highly personal style. Miró’s art in the last years of his life was mainly expressed in large-format paintings and denotes a deeper interest in pure colour and in gesture, but without abandoning lyricism and compositional rigour. It is this period that is most widely represented here, since he donated to the foundation the works that were in his studio when it was set up. Madrid, Museo Nacional del Prado Richard Hamilton: Picasso’s Meninas Till 30 May In 1973, Richard Hamilton (born London, 1922), a founding figure in Pop Art, produced the portfolio “Homage to Picasso. Picasso’s Meninas” in homage to the Spanish artist, transforming Velázquez’s celebrated work into a Picasso-like mode. The exhibition traces the different phases in the creation of Hamilton’s print, while displaying the portfolio alongside the similar artistic exercise on Velázquez’s Las Meninas undertaken by Goya in 1778. A drawing by Picasso of August 1957, the first work in Picasso’s own series based on Velázquez’s painting, forms the connecting link between Velázquez, Goya and Hamilton. Vienna, MUMOK Changing Channels: Art and Television 1963–1987 Till 6 June The “Changing Channels” exhibi-

tion investigates how art reflected and drew on the mass media of television between the 1960s and the 1980s. It presents works that show the increasing significance and the economic, technological and social mechanisms of the medium, and takes place at a moment in history where television is once more undergoing fundamental changes, bringing about a comprehensive revision of the relationship between art and the role of media in the public sphere. Paris, Fondation Cartier Beat Takeshi Kitano, Gosse de peintre Till 12 September With pleasure, humour and seriousness, Beat Takeshi Kitano has thrown himself into “Gosse de peintre”, an unusual project that subtly, if impertinently, alights in the realm of childhood. The exhibition was entirely created by him. With paintings and videos, astonishing objects and settings, whimsical and fantastic machines, Kitano leads the visitor through surprises, gags, and games, all the while mocking contemporary art, experimenting with knowledge, and toying with clichés associated with his country. In the artist’s words: “with this exhibition, I was attempting to expand the definition of ’art’, to make it less official, less conventional, less snobby, more casual.” Amsterdam, Cobra Museum Johannes Schwartz. Passion Till 24 May Johannes Schwartz presents a new series of photographs, entitled “Passion”. Over the last year, he has photographed a recently abandoned house. The result is a series of filmlike moments in a sober interior that seems unchanged since the 1950s. The furniture and objects are a reflection of the personality of someone who lived in the house for many years.

Belgrade, Museum of Contempory Art Collection of New Art Media The collection covers a huge span of time, from the exceptionally valuable photographic experiments of the Belgrade surrealists from the beginning of the 1930s (the photograms of Vane Živadinović Bor and Marko Ristić), to art photography and Conceptual art, and beyond to new art media. Conceptual art in Yugoslavia is represented in the collection by many relevant works, of which the most important are video performances by Marina Abramović (Freeing of Memory, 1976) and Raša Todosijević (Was ist Kunst, 1978), the photo documentation of the projects of the OHO group, photo performances and films by Neša Paripović (Examples of Analytic Sculpture, 1977; Rhythm, 1981), the works of Braco Dimitrijević, Zoran Popović, Goran Trbuljak, Balint Szombathy and others. Within video art, the collection included works by Sanja Iveković, Dalibor Martinis, Zoran Todorović, Milica Tomić and others. The collection also contains the first Web Art project in Serbia, a work named Absolute Sale by the Association Apsolutno. Skopje, Museum of Contemporay Art National Collection The national collection of the Museum traces the development of fine art in Macedonia with all its specific features, starting from the middle of the 20th century with the appearance of the first generation of contemporary artists – the founders of Macedonian modern art: Dimitar Pandilov, Lazar Licenoski, Nikola Martinoski, Dimo Todorovski, through to the generations that have appeared since the Second World War: Dimitar Kondovski, Risto Lozanoski, Petar Mazev, Dušan Percinkov, Rodoljub Anastasov, Tanas Lulovski, Jordan Grabuloski, Aneta Svetieva, Dimitar Manev, Gligor Stefanov, Petre Nikoloski, Blagoja Maneski, Jovan Šumkovski, etc.

Brussels, Royal Museum of Fine Arts Marc Mendelson Till 30 May The evolution of Marc Mendelson, born in London in 1915, was marked by four major periods: “Jeune Peinture Belge” (1945–1948), abstraction (the 1950s), matiérisme (the 1960s) and, with the switch to watercolour (1970–1996), a return to the figurative. Departing from magical realism, the artist arrived at a poetic geometrical abstraction, sensitive to surface variations and matiérisme. Mendelson sought always a refined essence. His discovery of Spain constituted a major event in his work, caught between the land, sea and sky. Bringing together colourful paintings, watercolours, drawings, photos, objects, architectural installations and archival documents, the Museum of Modern Art revisits its collections and seeks to offer an image of an artist marked by a stamp of ineffable artistic poetry. Munich, Alte Pinakothek Noble Guests – Masterpieces from the Kunsthalle Bremen Till 1 February 2011 The Alte Pinakothek is showing five works from the Kunsthalle Bremen. Among them is the Madonna dell’Umilità of 1423 by the Florentine painter Masolino da Panicale. It is the earliest dated work by the artist and, like Masolino’s work of similar size and subject, painted some twelve years later and now in the collection in Munich, it reveals the stylistic influence of the international Gothic art movement on the artist. Exhibiting the two works side by side is nothing short of a sensation, since these are the only two paintings by Masolino to be found in museums in Germany.

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{ Adrijina potnica }

Sunita L. Williams Brez meja

Besedilo: Katra Terlep

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Fotografije: Janez Vlachy

stronavtka Sunita L. Williams je na vesoljski postaji preživela 195 dni in tako postavila rekord med astronavtkami, do nedavnega pa je bila tudi rekorderka v najdaljšem, 29 ur trajajočem sprehodu po vesolju. Na povabilo organizatorjev slovenskega festivala znanosti z naslovom Od podzemlja do zvezd

je obiskala Slovenijo. Da pride v kraje svojih prednikov, se ji je kot Američanki slovensko-indijskega rodu zdelo samoumevno. Želela je predati sporočilo, da lahko z močno voljo in trudom pridejo kamorkoli, tudi do zvezd.

Ste si od nekdaj želeli postati astronavtka?

Ne, v otroških letih sem sanjala o poklicu veterinarke. Vendar nisem bila vedno pridna učenka in tako me niso sprejeli na želeno fakulteto. Ko so se ta vrata zaprla, so se odprla druga; pridružila sem se vojni mornarici in postala pilotka helikopterja. Takrat sem tudi obiskala vesoljski center Johnson v Houstonu in izvedela, da so nekatere operacije pristanka na Luni precej podobne pilotiranju helikopterja. Od takrat naprej sem si prizadevala postati astronavtka. Včasih je dobro, da ne dobiš tistega, kar misliš, da si želiš. Prisiljen si stopiti na drugo pot, kjer lahko dosežeš nekaj, na kar nisi niti pomislil. Koliko časa trajajo priprave in kakšni so občutki pred poletom v vesolje?

Postopek izbire kandidatov traja približno pet let, nadaljnjih osem let vzamejo priprave na polet in na zadolžitve na vesoljski postaji. Po tako dolgem obdobju se počutiš resnično pripravljenega za odhod. Kljub temu pa moram priznati, da me je spreletavalo strahospoštovanje, ko sem se bližala pravi, z gorivom napolnjeni raketi.

V breztežnosti se ne moreš uleči na posteljo, si podložiti blazine in se pokriti. Da bi vendarle imeli občutek, da nas obdaja odeja, smo spali v spalnih vrečah. Tudi umivanje na postaji je povsem drugačno. Lahko se le obrišeš s toplo, mokro brisačo. Prav vročo prho sem od vseh drobnih stvari, ki se zdijo na Zemlji tako samoumevne, najbolj pogrešala. Prehrana mora biti všečna različnim okusom, saj smo na postaji zbrani sodelavci iz vseh koncev sveta. Še bolj pa je pomembno, da se hrana »drži skupaj«, kot na primer enolončnice. Če bi namreč jedli kruh, bi imeli po vsej postaji drobtine! Jedilnik se zamenja le na 16 dni, zato jedem dodajamo začimbe, kot so česen, gorčica ali hrenu podobni pekoči wasabi. Tudi pri tako običajnih opravilih, kot je prehranjevanje, se v breztežnosti lahko pripeti kaj zanimivega. Sama sem nekega dne želela dodati omako, ki pa mi je, ko sem jo odprla, začela teči po obrazu in povsod po prostoru. Res je, kranjske klobase sem odnesla s seboj v vesolje. Tam smo si sodelavci v prvih dneh ponudili domače dobrote in pošle so mnogo prej, kot bi si želela! Kako je s privajanjem na breztežnost? In potem spet na gravitacijo ob

Kakšno je življenje na vesoljski postaji; kako izgledajo vsakdanje stvari:

vrnitvi?

počitek, osebna higiena, prehrana? Je res, da ste s seboj odnesli kranj-

Telo se na breztežnost hitro navadi. Ni treba paziti, da si pravilno obrnjen; sama sem celo spala z glavo navzdol. Po štirih mesecih me je

sko klobaso?

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{ Adria Passenger } prešinilo, da se sploh ne spominjam več, kako je hoditi. Organizem se na razmere prilagodi tudi tako, da začne izgubljati mišično in kostno maso. Zato smo imeli na postaji telovadno opremo, kjer smo vsak dan dve uri skrbeli za telesno zdržljivost. Na napravah se da preteči celo maraton; jaz sem bila v vesolju ravno v času Bostonskega maratona; izzvala sem sestro in ga pretekla na tekaški stezi na postaji, ona pa na Zemlji. Ko se ponovno srečamo z gravitacijo, nam glava pada vstran ali nazaj, saj je vratnim mišicam več mesecev ni bilo treba držati pokonci. Težave imamo tudi z ravnotežjem. Sama sem bila šele po pol leta fizične rehabilitacije in intenzivne vadbe v takšni telesni kondiciji kot pred odhodom.

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Kako izgleda naš planet iz vesolja?

Od tam ni videti meja in delujejo skrajno nenaravno. Težko si je predstavljati, da je to prostor, kjer je nekdo prav zdaj na poti v službo, kdo drug se sprehaja s psom ali pa je obtičal v gneči. Še teže pa, da tam divjajo vojne. Žal moram reči, da so vidne tudi posledice človekovega delovanja. Opazila sem ogromne izsekane površine v deževnem gozdu, kako ledeniki spreminjajo velikost in kako tanka je naša atmosfera. In Slovenija, ste jo skušali poiskati?

Seveda, najprej sem našla obalo in potem Alpe. Lahko rečem, da imate čudovito zeleno deželo.

Sunita L. Williams

No boundaries

Text: Katra Terlep

Photography: Janez Vlachy

Astronaut Sunita L. Williams spent 195 days at the International Space Station, thereby setting the record for female astronauts, and until recently she also held the record for the longest spacewalk, lasting 29 hours. On the invitation of the organisers of the Slovenian science festival entitled From the Underground to the Stars (Od podzemlja do zvezd), she visited Slovenia. To come and see the lands of her ancestors, since as an American of Slovenian-Indian roots this seemed quite natural to her. She wanted to deliver the message that with strong will and hard work you can get anywhere, even to the stars. Did you always want to become an astronaut?

No, when I was a child I dreamed of being a veterinarian. But I wasn’t always a good student, so I wasn’t accepted at the school I wanted to attend. When that door closed, another opened; I joined the navy and became a helicopter pilot. At that time I also visited the Johnson Space Center in Houston, and learned that some of the Moon landing operations were a lot like piloting a helicopter. From that time on I worked to become an astronaut. Sometimes it’s good not to get what you think you want. You’re forced to tread another path, where you can achieve something you hadn’t even thought about. How long does the preparation take, and what are your feelings before a space flight?

The process of candidate selection takes around five years, then another eight years are taken up with preparation for the flight and for duties on the space station. After such a long time you feel truly ready for departure. Even so, I have to admit that I was awestruck when I approached the real, fuel-filled rocket.

What is life like on the space station; what are everyday things like, such as rest, personal hygiene and food? Is it true that you took with you a Carniolan sausage (kranjska klobasa)?

When you’re weightless you can’t lie on a bed, put a pillow under your head and cover yourself. Still, at least to have the feeling of being covered in a blanket, we slept in sleeping bags. Washing on the station is also quite different. All you can do is wipe yourself with a warm, wet cloth. Of all the little things that seem so taken for granted on Earth, I missed a real hot shower most of all. The food has to please a variety of tastes, since colleagues from all parts of the world are gathered on the station. What is even more important is that the food “holds together”, such as a stew. For instance if we ate bread, we would have crumbs all over the station! The menu only changes every 16 days, so we add seasoning to the dishes such as garlic, mustard or spicy wasabi, which is like horseradish. Even in such ordinary functions like eating, interesting things can happen when you’re weightless. One day I myself wanted to add some sauce, but when I opened it, it started flowing over my face and around the cabin. It’s true, I took a Carniolan sausage with me to space. Up there all the crew offered treats from their homes in the first few days, and they ran out much sooner than we wanted! What is it like getting used to weightlessness? And then coming back to gravity?

The body quickly gets used to weightlessness. You don’t need to watch out that you’re the right way around; I even slept with my head down. After four months it occurred to me that I could no longer remember what it was like to walk. The organism also adapts to the conditions by starting to lose muscle and bone mass. So we had gym equipment at the station, and for two hours every day we worked on our physical stamina. You can even run a marathon on the equipment; I was in space right at the time of the Boston Marathon; I challenged my sister, and ran it on the treadmill on the station, while she ran it on Earth. When you encounter gravity again, your head falls to the side or backwards, since for several months your neck muscles haven’t had to hold it up. You also have problems with balance. For myself, only after half a year of physical rehabilitation and intensive training did I get back to the kind of physical condition I was in before departure. How does our planet look from space?

From up there you can’t see any borders, and it seems extremely unnatural. It’s hard to imagine that it’s a place where someone right now is on their way to work, someone else is walking their dog or is stuck in the rush hour. And even harder to imagine that wars are raging there. Sadly I have to say that the consequences of human action are also visible. I noticed huge clear-cut areas in the rain forest, glaciers changing size and also how thin our atmosphere is. And Slovenia, did you try to find it?

Of course, first I found the coast and then the Alps. I can say that you have a wonderfully green country.

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B

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»Nizkobudžetni New York«

Besedilo: Dora in Domen Pal

Fotografije: Domen Pal

»O

prema stanovanja je malce ekstravagantna, ampak po moje vama bo všeč,« je bil prepričan

lastnik apartmaja, ki sva ga najela v središču mesta. Kmalu je postalo jasno, kaj je želel povedati. Iz kota sobe je kričala sedežna garnitura, potiskana z zebrastim vzorcem, pod njo enaka preproga, na njej stolčki v obliki srčkov, sredi sobe železen drog, osnovno orodje estradnih umetnic, srebrna satenasta posteljnina, z alkoholom založen hladilnik, zbirka edukativnih ﬁlmov za odrasle ... »Mladim je strašno všeč,« je oblikovalski dosežek svojega arhitekta zadovoljno zagovarjal lastnik in vključil disko kroglo, da se je zavrtela pod stropom. »Dobrodošli v Beogradu, želimo vam obilico zabave!«

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{ Beograd }

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rbska prestolnica je lani zasedla vrh lestvice desetih mest z najboljšim nočnim življenjem. To ne bi bilo nič nenavadnega, če seznama ne bi objavila založba vodičev Lonely planet, ki ima svoje sodelavce v vsaki luknji planeta. Tujci naj bi po njihovih besedah začeli spoznavati, kar domačini vedo že dolgo – Beograd je zakon! Fascinanten podatek, za katerega večina Beograjčanov niti ni slišala. Vendar je res: Beograd je center dobre zabave, vsaj v tem delu sveta. Po več kot deset let trajajočem temačnem obdobju, ki ga je zbrisalo s turističnih zemljevidov, je postal prestolnica hedonizma. Dobre hrane, pijače, raznovrstne glasbe, čednih deklet, odprtih ljudi, neskončnih in divjih zabav ..., predvsem pa je še vedno relativno poceni. Beograd ni lepo mesto, to bo priznal tudi marsikateri prebivalec. Z avtomobili natrpane ozke ulice, ki se v kaotičnem redu zlivajo s širokimi bulvarji, umazani pločniki, polni lukenj in štrlečih tlakovcev, ob katere se nenehoma spotikaš, olupljene fasade ogromnih zgradb, mišmaš arhitekturnih stilov – veličastnih palač in socialističnih kvadrov, med katerimi se stiskajo kupole bizantinskih cerkva. Zdi se, da podobno kot drugod na vzhodu nobena ulica, avenija ali bulvar ne zdrži v enakem stilu več kot tri ali štiri hiše zapored. Beograd ni Pariz in to je jasno tudi njegovim prebivalcem, gostilničarjem ter lastnikom klubov, ki so gonilo turistične ’mašinerije’. Ne razumite me napak, mesto seveda premore dolgo in zanimivo zgodovino, ki se odlično predstavlja skozi muzeje in arhitekturo, vendar je pravi adut

Vendar je res: Beograd je center dobre zabave, vsaj v tem delu sveta.

Beograda skrit drugje. Srbom je apatijo, v katero so z vsako izgubljeno vojno na Balkanu tonili vse globlje, uspelo obrniti sebi v prid. Ko sva se v zadnjih petnajstih letih vračala v mesto, sva opažala, da sta bila navidezna brezizhodnost položaja in število zabav po mestu premo sorazmerna. Javnih žurk je bilo z vsakim letom več, vrhunec so dosegle za časa Natovega bombardiranja in množičnih demonstracij. Čista kompenzacija, ki jo kot navidezno ležernost in brezskrbnost še danes dobro ponujajo. Restavracije in klubi so polni vsak dan v tednu. Če se zdi, da je tu vsak dan sobota, potem je vsak večer petkov. Kje začeti? Vsekakor z dobrim obrokom. Srbska kulinarika ne namerava očarati s prefinjenostjo, ki smo je vajeni v francoskih restavracijah. Gre za domače jedi, pripravljene res vrhunsko. Pečenje mesa v Srbiji ni posel za šušmarje in vikend amaterje. Pred leti sem v Novem Sadu med prvomajskimi prazniki v osrednjem televizijskem dnevniku gledal prispevek o pripravah na praznik. Novinarji so obiskali mesarja, ki je postregel s podatki o količini in vrsti prodanega mesa v tistem dnevu. Sledil je pogovor s strokovnjakom za pripravo žerjavice in

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{ Beograd }

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roštilja, nekaj receptov za peko, za zaključek pa so predstavili še nekaj idej za pikniške izlete. Brez ‘heca’, pečenje mesa je v Srbiji resen posel. Z obiskom katerekoli od restavracij na Skadarliji ne boste zgrešili. To je železno pravilo, kvaliteta hrane je tam vseskozi na resnično visokem nivoju, njen morebitni padec pa v očeh domačinov verjetno resen zločin, ki bi dobil epilog v množičnih nemirih. V večernih uricah je »kafanska muzika« obvezen del obroka, ciganska godba pa utegne komorno restavracijsko vzdušje poživiti in razvleči do poznih uric. Vendar pravi poznavalec nočnega življenja s tem ne bo zadovoljen, prava stvar je namreč obisk katerega od neštetih klubov v mestu ali na splavih Donave in Save. Slednji zasedajo v srcu Beograjčanov posebno mesto: na njih imajo urejene »kafane«, klube, restavracije, »vikendice« in celo pisarne. Za vse okuse in starosti seveda. Med najzloglasnejšimi je zagotovo Blek panters na Adi Cinganliji, kjer vas po obveznem pregledu zaradi morebitnega vnosa orožja posadijo za eno od miz v zakajenem podpalubju. Kot večina ostalih je splav pravzaprav restavracija, ki jo vodijo Romi. Ob obisku pantersov ti postane jasno, da scene v svojih filmih ni narekoval Emir Kusturica, temveč prej obratno. Kvazi prefinjen interier in kdo ve zakaj osvetljeno vitrino sredi prostora krasi steklenica viskija. Vendar ne gre obupati nad dolgočasnim vzdušjem »kafane«, vztrajnost se tu vsekakor poplača. V poznih večernih uricah se med mize od nekod prikradejo člani ansambla Crni panteri, ki ležerno srkanje žganjic začinijo z domačimi melosi. Vse dokler se pevec, ki je dan prej sicer raztegoval harmoniko, ne odloči, da je prišel čas za pospešitev utripa salonskega poležavanja. »Alo, emocije!« skuša pevec prestreči katerega od pogledov tujcev, ki zardevajoče zrejo v svoje krožnike. Menda niso vajeni, da jih med jedjo v neznanem jeziku nagovarja malce zavaljen, nizek in plešast glasbenik. In vse to očitno kot del ponudbe, za katero so plačali. Ker očitno ne bo nič, se pevec obrne na domača dekleta. Ta se ne pustijo prositi, prva vstane od mize, zaziblje z boki, sledi ji druga, tretja ... in čez petnajst minut prvotna podoba restavracije sploh ni več razpoznavna. Kot da gre za dva različna prostora. V gostem dimu se po mizah pod brlivkami, ki visijo pod stropom, v divjih ritmih ciganskih melodij zvijajo gosti, med njimi krožijo s pijačo poplesavajoči natakarji, ki se občasno pridružijo pevcu. Splav se je pred časom sredi ene takih žurk vnel in zgorel. Pa kaj potem, novi je celo boljši in lepši! »Dragi gosti, Čarls Bronson – legenda,« je glasnega aplavza deležen brkati kitarist, ki se pridruži bendu. Dan poprej je sicer poznavalsko udrihal po kontrabasu. Kompozicije si sledijo brez premora, vsake toliko se zamenjajo zgolj člani na instrumentih. Ko se bend enkrat ogreje, ga vse do jutra prav nič ne ustavi. Prav tako ne gostov. Mimogrede, zdi se, da je to tudi mesto, v katerem ima vsak taksist svojo prigodo o Slovencih, njihovi žurerski kondiciji in količinah popitega alkohola. To pa zbuja pri večini nekakšno spoštovanje. Nedavno preminuli pisatelj in ikona Beograda Momo Kapor je v enem od intervjujev mesto označil za »nizkobudžetni New York«. In točno to Beograd je. Vsega po malem, a v cenejši embalaži. Majhen talilni lonec, mešanica narodnosti, kultur, miselnosti, arhitekture, glasbe ... In emocij!

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{ Beograd }

{ Belgrade }

“A low-budget

New York” Text: Dora and Domen Pal

“T

( 40 )

Photography: Domen Pal

he furniture is a little extravagant but I think you’ll like it,” said the owner of the city-centre flat we were renting for our stay. It soon became clear what he was trying to say. A zebra-print three-piece suite shrieked at us from the corner of the room; on the floor, a rug with the same pattern, with little heart-shaped stools standing on it; in the middle of the room, a metal pole, as used by cabaret artistes; silver satin sheets on the bed; a fridge crammed with alcohol; a collection of educational films for adults... “Young people love it,” said the owner, gazing proudly at the creation of his interior designer and switching on the glitter ball hanging from the ceiling. “Welcome to Belgrade, I hope you have a great time!” Last year the Serbian capital occupied the top spot in a list of the 10 cities with the best nightlife. Nothing unusual about this, except that the

list was the one published by Lonely Planet, the travel guide publisher with contributors in every corner of the globe. According to them, it’s time foreigners started to realise what the locals have known for a long time – Belgrade rules! A fascinating fact that most citizens of Belgrade are not even aware of. But it’s true: Belgrade is the centre of good entertainment, at least in this part of the world. After a gloomy period lasting over a decade that had the effect of wiping it from the tourist maps, it has become the capital of hedonism. Good food, drink, different types of music, pretty girls, warm people, endless wild parties... and above all it’s still relatively cheap. Belgrade is not a beautiful city. Even many of its inhabitants would admit that. Narrow streets jammed with traffic that merge in chaotic order with broad boulevards, dirty pavements full of holes and uneven paving stones that you’re constantly tripping over, the peeling façades of enormous buildings, a mishmash of architectural styles – magnificent palaces and socialist blocks, with the domes of Byzantine churches squeezed between them. As in other Eastern cities, it seems as though no street, avenue or boulevard sticks to the same style for more than three or four buildings in a row. Belgrade is not Paris, and this is also clear to its citizens and to its bar owners, restaurateurs and club owners, the driving force of the tourist machinery. Don’t misunderstand me: of course the city has a long and interesting history, excellently presented through museums and architecture, but Belgrade’s true ace is hidden elsewhere. The Serbs have managed to turn to their own advantage the apathy into which they have sunk deeper with every lost war in the Balkans. Each time we have returned to the city in the last 15 years, we have noticed that the appar-

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{ Belgrade }

( 42 )

ent hopelessness of the situation and the number of parties around the city are directly proportional. There were more public parties every year, and they reached their peak at the time of the NATO bombing and mass demonstrations. A real compensation, which they still offer today in the form of an apparently leisurely and carefree spirit. “Does anybody actually work here?” you ask yourself as you look at the kafane, restaurants and clubs that are full every day of the week. And if it seems as though every day here is Saturday, then every evening is Friday evening. Where to begin? With a good meal of course. Serbian cuisine does not try and enchant us with the refinement that we are used to in French restaurants. It is all about excellently prepared local dishes. Grilling meat in Serbia is not a job for dilettantes and weekend amateurs. Some years ago, when I was in Novi Sad for the First of May holiday, I watched a report on preparations for the holiday on the main TV news programme. The reporters visited a butcher who provided them with information about the quantity and type of meat that he had sold that day. This was followed by advice from an expert on the best way to prepare your barbecue or grill, a selection of recipes and, to end with, some suggested picnic destinations. It was no joke: grilling meat is a serious business in Serbia. You can’t go wrong with a visit to any of the restaurants in the Skadarlija district. This may be considered a rule. The quality of the food there is at a genuinely high level, and any drop in standards would be seen by locals as a heinous crime that would probably end in riots. In the early

part of the evening “kafana music” is an obligatory part of the meal, and gypsy music can invigorate the intimate restaurant atmosphere and prolong it into the small hours. Yet the true connoisseur of nightlife will not be satisfied with this. The proper thing to do is to visit one of the countless clubs in the city or on rafts moored to the banks of the Danube and the Sava. The latter occupy a special place in the hearts of Belgrade’s citizens. Some of them are kafane, clubs and restaurants. Others serve as weekend cottages or even offices. There are, of course, rafts for all tastes and ages. Among the most notorious is Black Panthers on Ada Cinganlija, an island in the Sava, where, after submitting to the obligatory frisking for weapons, you are seated at a table in the smoke-filled below-deck area. Like most of the others, the raft is actually a restaurant run by Roma. When you visit the Panthers, you realise where Emir Kusturica got the inspiration for the scenes in his films. A quasi-refined interior and, for some reason, an illuminated display case in the middle of the

But it’s true: Belgrade is the

centre of good entertainment, at least in this part of the world.

( 43 ) room containing a bottle of whisky. But do not despair at the tedious atmosphere of the kafana. Here, it pays to be patient. Late in the evening, the members of the Black Panthers band appear among the tables and liven up the leisurely sipping of local brandies with a few local tunes. At least until the singer, who the previous day was the accordion player, decides that the time has come to pick up the pace a little. “Hello, emotions!” The singer tries to catch the eye of one of the foreigners, most of whom are blushing into their plates. Perhaps they are not used to being addressed in an unfamiliar language by a short, fat, bald musician while they’re eating. And all of this apparently as part of the service they have paid for. Giving them up as a lost cause, the singer turns to the local girls, who don’t need asking twice. The first get up from the table and starts to swing her hips, she is followed by a second, and the third... Fifteen minutes later the restaurant has completely shed its original appearance and turned into something else. As though they were two different places. Through a smoky haze, under the oil lamps hanging from the ceiling, the guests wind their way among the tables to the wild rhythms of gypsy melodies. Dancing waiters circulate among them with drinks, occasionally joining in with the singer. During one such party some time ago, the raft caught fire and was reduced to ashes. No matter: the new one is even better and more beautiful. “Ladies and gentlemen, Charles Bronson, a legend.” A moustachioed guitarist joins the band to noisy applause. The previous day he was slapping away expertly at a double bass. The tunes follow each other without a break, and every so often the band members swap instruments. Once the band has warmed up, nothing will stop it until dawn. Or the guests, for that matter.

Momo Kapor, the recently deceased writer and an icon of Belgrade, once described the city in an interview as “a low-budget New York”. And that is exactly what Belgrade is. A little of everything, but in cheaper packaging. A small melting pot, a mixture of ethnicities, cultures, mentalities, architecture, music, and so on. It also appears to be a city in which every taxi driver has a story to tell about people from Slovenia: how they like to party and how much alcohol they drink. Most of them impart the latter information with a certain grudging respect.

Izkoristite ugodno ponudbo! Vabimo vas, da poletite z nami in si ogledate Beograd. Rezervirajte si enega od naslednjih terminov: 16.–18. ali 23.–25. april, 14.–16. maj, 4.–6. junij Ljubljana–Beograd–Ljubljana Cena povratne vozovnice z vsemi pristojbinami znaša le 135 EUR. Pohitite s prijavo, število prostih mest je omejeno. Letališke takse in pristojbine so vključene v ceno. Strošek rezervacije ni vključen.

Take advantage of this exceptional offer! Fly with us and visit Belgrade. Choose one of the following dates: 16–18 or 23–25 April, 14–16 May, 4–6 June Ljubljana–Belgrade–Ljubljana A return ticket including all taxes costs just EUR 135. Book now, the number of places is limited. All taxes, fees are included in the price. Reservation Service Fee is not included.

Adria Airways leti na liniji Ljubljana–Beograd šestkrat tedensko. Adria Airways flies between Ljubljana and Belgrade six times a week.

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Svetloba drugih dni

The Light of Other Days

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Carina Nebula

{ Svetloba drugih dni }

Podobe iz globin časa ( 46 )

e v prvi drobceni milisekundi je bilo vesolje skupek širjenja in trajanja. Svetloba, ki je zažarela iz prvih galaksij, se še danes ena-

komerno širi čez njegova velika prostranstva. Kroge svetlobe, ki se nenehno obnavljajo in od katerih je vsak usmerjen v izvorno galaksijo, napajajo združeni ognji milijard posameznih sonc. Ta se prižigajo in ugašajo skozi eone, medtem ko galaksije plešejo in se združujejo. Nekatere od teh zvezd žarijo milijarde, druge milijone let. Nekatere gorijo že od takrat, ko so se prvič prižgale nekaj milijonov let po velikem poku pred 13,7 milijardami let. To so posamezne celice v telesih galaksij, posamične sestavine združenih kresov, ki se bleščijo čez črnino globokega časa.

Besedilo in obdelava fotografij: Michael Benson

NGC 4565 Needle Galaxy

( 47 )

Cat's Paw Nebula

{ Svetloba drugih dni }

( 48 )

lje, ko se zazremo v vesolje, globlje v preteklost gledamo. To pa zato, ker neprimerljivo dinamična, a vseeno končna hitrost fotonov, ki sevajo iz tam vidnih objektov – tistih brezmasnih subatomskih delcev, ki jih ni mogoče razcepiti na še manjše delce in iz katerih je sestavljena svetloba –, povzroča časovni zamik. Zaradi univerzalne hitrostne omejitve, ki velja v kozmosu, se ti svetlobni žarki vedejo kot koncentrični krogi v ribniku, kadar kamenček prebije njegovo gladko gladino. Zamislite si nočni ribnik, ki je tako orjaški, da potrebujejo krogi, ki se širijo po vsakem takem dogodku, tisoče, milijone ali celo milijarde let, preden se odbijejo od njegovih bregov. Tako nekako si lahko predstavljate obseg znanega vesolja. To me spominja na besede, ki jih je izrekel Arthur C. Clarke nekega zgodnjega večera v Hikkaduwi na Šrilanki konec leta 2001 – tistega leta, ko me je navdušil za futurizem, čeprav nazadnje nismo dobili skrivnostnih monolitov in vesoljskih odprav na Jupiter, temveč klavrno milenijsko regresijo in Svetovni trgovinski center v ruševinah. »Ste že slišali za eno najboljših zamisli v vsej znanstvenofantastični literaturi?« je vprašal Clarke z iskrico v očeh. »Počasno steklo.« Nato je orisal osnovni koncept romana Boba Shawa iz leta 1968 z naslovom The Light of Other Days (Svetloba drugih dni), v katerem razvijajo tako gosto prozorno snov, da se fotoni v njej skorajda ustavijo. Vsi, ki bi zrli skozi to snov, je povedal Clarke, ne bi videli tistega, kar je, temveč ono, kar je bilo nekoč. Kot bi opisoval stvarnost prostorsko-časovne kontinuitete. Kar vidimo, tudi kadar se zazremo zelo globoko v to steklo – na primer z uporabo Hubblovega vesoljskega teleskopa –, je vedno prenos v realnem času. Vzemimo na primer najzgodnejše galaksije, ki so skoraj trinajst milijard svetlobnih let proč. Na slikah, ki so vidne v Hubblovem ultraglobokem polju, so zabeležene kot dogajanje v živo, ne kot zbledele fotografije. In njihovi fotoni še vedno pršijo v vse smeri, čeprav so neverjetno šibki – svetloba drugih dni, neprekinjena po več milijard trajajočem potovanju skozi počasno steklo vesolja. Tukaj predstavljene slike vsebujejo veliko primerov tabeliranega, izmerjenega, osvetljenega, dobro premišljenega – tistega, o čemer smo lahko precej prepričani. Skoraj dovolj, da zameglimo prevlado skrivnostnega, nedoumljivega, tajnega, boleče neznanega. Tako kot negativna slika dimne zavese, na kateri dim sam zagotavlja žareč sij svetlobe, slednja kategorija hkrati osvetljuje našo nevednost in natančneje zrcali resnično stanje našega védenja. Prav tako pa omogoča premislek o Skrivnosti. Nekatere slike prikazujejo razglede, katerih fotoni so začeli svoje dolgo potovanje proti nam veliko prej, preden se je na tej miniaturni vodnati in s kisikom bogati Zemlji pojavil Homo sapiens. Nekaj jih je svojo svetlobo poslalo v našo smer, ko je Homo habilis iz rečnih prodnikov rezljal prvo orodje v dolini Great Rift v vzhodni Afriki. Nekateri segajo celo v čas pred nastankom same Zemlje in zvezde, okrog katere kroži. Za hip premislite o tem konceptu. Preden se je Sončeva energija, ki je končno omogočila, da so na Zemlji zrasli prvi gozdovi, sploh lahko združila skozi dolge eone, preden so se prastari medzvezdni oblaki strnili v vozle čedalje gostejše snovi in se prižgali, sprva kot rdečkast premog, zakopan v protoplanetarni disk prahu in plinov, potem pa kot navzven obrnjena, mlada žareča zvezda – še pred vsem tem se je sve-

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Crab Nebula

{ Svetloba drugih dni }

{ Svetloba drugih dni } tloba vrvečih galaksij mlajšega vesolja napotila skozi prostor-čas. Da je bila končno sprejeta tukaj. In kaj jo je sprejelo? Mi – produkti vrta, ki ga ob začetku tega potovanja sploh še ni bilo. Resnično počasno steklo. In tukaj – na začetku – zaključujemo prizor, ki se blešči skozi globino časa in medzvezdnega prahu. Vzajemno delujoče galaksije zgodnjega vesolja, kresnice različnih barv, se lesketajo na dnu globokih vodnjakov in se zrcalijo v do popolnosti zglajenih konkavnih zrcalih, ki so vstavljena v natančno izdelane cevi. Ta mirna voda služi zbiranju medzvezdnih fotonov, ki so pripotovali od daleč s samega roba časa. Povečevalna zrcala naših teleskopov vsebujejo snov, ki je nastala v središčih prav tistih generacij zvezd, ki jih zdaj snemajo. Tako kot mi, ki smo prav tako narejeni iz zvezdne snovi, so gostejši elementi, vtkani v tehnologije, sposobne snemati te najzgodnejše galaksije, v resnici prehiteli svoje izvorne zvezde – in prehiteli celo samo svetlobo, ki so jo oddajali njihovi prvotni talilni lonci. V času naprej, ravno ob pravem času – ob pravem času za kaj? Da bi vrgli dolg pogled nazaj, na svetlobo drugih dni. Naš pogled je nepreklicno povezan s čisto prvimi vlakni, tetivami, mišicami, sinapsami in kognitivnimi žarki, ki ne bi bili mogoči brez

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M31 Andromeda Galaxy

težjih elementov, tujih zgodnjemu vesolju, ki so jih stalila orjaška sonca v najzgodnejših epohah časa. In mi – naši telesni jazi in naše najzgodnejše inkarnacije, naši predniki vse nazaj do prve bakterije in še nazaj do izvornih zvezd – kaj smo storili? Čeprav zakoreninjeni v časovnosti, smo pohiteli naprej kot delfini v viharju, odločeni, da se poženemo iz vala in prestrežemo žarke arhivske zvezdne svetlobe – plodne žarke, v katerih živi DNK vesolja. Zadnje delo Michaela Bensona, avtorja tega sestavka, je Far Out: A SpaceTime Chronicle (Daleč zunaj: časovno-prostorska kronika), Abrams Books, 2009. Vela Supernova Remnant

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{ Svetloba drugih dni }

{ The Light of Other Days }

Images From Deep Time

Antares & Rho Ophiuchi cloud

Text and Image Processing: Michael Benson

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rom its earliest pixel-sized billisecond, the universe was already a compound of extension and duration. Light fired forth from its first galaxies continues to extend in a steady stream across its great expanse to this day. Ever-replenished spheres of light, each centered on a source galaxy, are powered by the massed fires of billions of individual suns. They wink on and off across the eons as the galaxies themselves dance and merge. Some of these stars shine for billions, others for millions of years. Some have burned steadily since they first ignited a few million years after the Big Bang, 13.7 billion years ago. They’re individual cells in the bodies of galaxies, discrete components of aggregate bonfires shining across the blackness of deep time. The farther out into space we look, the farther into the past we peer. That’s because the incomparably zippy, but nonetheless finite, speed of the photons issuing from the objects visible there – those irreducible, massless subatomic particles of which light is composed – imposes a time lag. Enforced by the universal speed limit of the cosmos, these light rays function like ripples in a pond after a pebble has penetrated its glassine surface. Imagine a nocturnal pond of a scale so vast that the ripples extending out from each event take thousands, millions, or even billions of years to echo off its banks. You’re contemplating the scale of the known universe. It reminds me of something Arthur C. Clarke said one early evening in Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka, in late 2001—a year he helped imbue with a futuristic sheen, even if what we actually got wasn’t cryptic monoliths and crewed Jupiter missions but a dismal millennial regression and a World Trade Center in ruins. “Have you heard about one of the greatest ideas in all of science fiction?” Clarke asked, a gleam in his eye. “Slow glass.” And he sketched out the central concept of Bob Shaw’s 1968 novel The Light of Other Days, in which a clear material so dense that photons slow to a near-standstill within it is developed. Those gazing through a pane of the stuff, Clarke observed, would inevitably see not what is, but

what once had been. He may as well have been describing the reality of the space-time continuum. What we’re seeing, even when we peer particularly deeply into that glass – for example, using the Hubble Space Telescope – is always a realtime transmission. For example, take the earliest galaxies, almost 13 billion light years away. Visible in the Hubble Ultra Deep Field image, they were recorded as a live feed, not a faded photograph. And their photons continue to shower in from all sides, impossibly faint—the light of other days, uncut after its multi-billion year passage through the slow glass of a universe. The images presented here contain plenty of examples of the tabulated, the measured, the floodlit, the well figured-out – that which we’re reasonably sure of. Almost enough to obscure the predominance of the mysterious, the ineffable, the cryptic, the woefully unknown. Like a negative image of a smoke screen in which the smoke itself now provides a glowing nimbus of light, the latter category both illuminates our ignorance and more accurately reflects the true state of our knowledge. It also allows for a consideration of the Mystery. Some of the images reproduced here depict vistas whose photons started their long journey towards us well before Homo sapiens arose on this miniscule mote of oxygenated, irrigated Earth. A few cast their light this way when the first stone tools were being chiseled from river cobbles by Homo hablis in the Great Rift Valley of East Africa. Some predate the very formation of the Earth itself, and the star around which it orbits. Consider that concept for a second. Before the solar energy that eventually grew Earth’s first forests had a chance to coalesce over long eons, its progenitor interstellar clouds collapsing into nodes of ever denser matter and igniting, first as a reddish coal buried in a proto-planetary disc of dust and gas, then as an extroverted, youthful, blazing star – before all that, the light from the teeming galaxies of a younger universe set out across space-time. Eventually to be received

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Antenna Galaxies

{ The Light of Other Days }

{ The Light of Other Days } here. By what? By us – the products of a garden as yet unformed at their journey’s start. Slow glass indeed. And there we end, at the beginning, a scene shimmering through deep time and interstellar dust. The interacting galaxies of an early universe, glow-worms of different colors, glint at the bottom of deep wells, reflected in perfectly polished concave mirrors encased within scrupulously machined tubes. This still water serves to gather far-traveled interstellar photons from time’s edge. The enlarging mirrors of our telescopes comprise material forged at the centers of the same generation of stars they now record. Like us, also made of star-stuff, the denser elements woven into technologies capable of recording these earliest galaxies in effect raced ahead of its progenitor stars – ahead of the very light cast by its primary crucibles. Ahead in time, “just” in time – in time for what? To cast a long glance back, at the light of other days. Our gaze is irrevocably bound to the very fibers, tendons, muscles, synapses and cognitive glints which would be impossible without the heavier elements, alien to the early universe, smelted by giant suns in time’s earliest epochs. And we – our physical selves and our earliest

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Horsehead Nebula

incarnations, our ancestors all the way back to the first bacterium, then still further, to chandeliers of progenitor stars – what did we do? Rooted in temporality, we still managed to race ahead, like dolphins in a storm surge, intent on exploding out of the wave to intercept rays of archival starlight – fecund rays, alive with the DNA of a universe.

Michael Benson is the author, most recently, of Far Out: A Space-Time Chronicle (Abrams Books, 2009).

Eagle Nebula

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Ljubljana

( 56 )

Svojemu ritmu so sledili v Slovenijo Tuji umetniki najdejo navdih v kulturi in pokrajini ter deĹželi naklonijo svojo perspektivo Besedilo: Wes Eichenwald

Fotografije: Igor Ĺ kafar

( 57 )

oleti in jeseni 2000 je v Ljubljani potekal Evropski bienale sodobne umetnosti. Na plakatu s tiste razstave je bil slogan »Sledite svojemu umetniškemu utripu v Ljubljano, Slovenija.« Preden je

Slovenija postala članica Evropske unije in Nata, je ostajala precej proč od utečenih poti. Toda za mnoge umetnike so neutečene poti edine steze, po katerih želijo stopati. Nekateri tuji umetniki – lahko bi jim rekli izvidniki kulturnega napredka – so od leta 1991, ko je Slovenija postala samostojna država, prihajali vsaj posamično, če ne ravno množično. In če slovenska terra ni več tako zelo incognita, kot je bila včasih, gre tudi njim nekaj zaslug. Nikakor ne trdim, da bi moral Slovencem Slovenijo razlagati tujec, to bi bilo absurdno, toda svež par oči in ušes lahko stari domači pokrajini nakloni dobrodošlo novo perspektivo.

{ Ljubljana }

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lovenija je zagotavljala vir umetniškega navdiha tako kratkotrajnim obiskovalcem, kakršen je brazilski romanopisec Paulo Coelho, ki je svoj roman iz leta 1998 Veronika se odloči umreti postavil v Ljubljano, kot tudi dolgoletnim izseljencem, kakršni so: pisateljica in prevajalka Erica Johnson Debeljak, glasbenik/ producent Chris Eckman ter pisatelj, fotograf in filmar Michael Benson, vsi Američani, poročeni s Slovenkami in Slovenci. (Benson, ki je ustvaril odmevni dokumentarec Prerokbe ognja o umetnikih NSK v okviru slovenske odcepitve od Jugoslavije, se je leta 2009 preselil na Manhattan.) Potem je tu še alternativni roker Steve Wynn, znan po svojem losangeleškem bendu Dream Syndicate iz osemdesetih let in poznejšem obsežnem solističnem delu. Wynn, ki je zdaj Newyorčan, je oktobra 2007 preživel tri tedne v središču Ljubljane, kjer je s prijateljem Chrisom Eckmanom pisal in snemal album, ki je pozneje izšel z naslovom Čez Zmajski most (po dobro znanem mostu v Stari Ljubljani). »Odziv Slovencev je bil fantastičen,« pove Wynn. »Lani (2009) marca sem se vrnil predstavit celoten album z različnimi glasbeniki, ki so sodelovali pri snemanju. Vladalo je veliko vznemirjenje in ljudje so mi bili celo hvaležni, ker sem si vzel čas, da sem združil naši kulturi in navdihe. Če sem iskren, pa sem jaz tisti, ki je bil hvaležen, saj so mi Ljubljana in prijatelji, ki sem jih tam spoznal, pomagali posneti eno najboljših plošč v karieri.« Eckman, ki je doma s tihomorskega severozahoda ZDA in je snemal z The Walkabouts ter Chris&Carla, pa tudi solo, je bil ključni sodelavec tako za Wynna kot za mnoge druge glasbenike. Eckman je na primer povabil v Slovenijo kalifornijski alternativni countrybend Willard Grant Conspiracy kot predskupino za Walkabouts; bend je tam do zdaj posnel že tri albume (vključno s tistim z naslovom The Green, Green Grass of Slovenia). Eckman se je leta 2002 preselil v Ljubljano. Priznan glasbenik, ki veliko časa preživi na turnejah in je v Evropi kot doma, je imel za seboj že veliko dela in nekaj časa ni veliko razmišljal o tem, kako bi njegov novi dom utegnil vplivati na njegovo glasbeno ustvarjanje. »Zame,« dodaja, »je bil velik preobrat soloalbum The Last Side of the Mountain, ki sem ga izdal leta 2008. Vsa besedila na albumu so vzeta iz pesmi velikega slovenskega pesnika Daneta Zajca (1929–2005). Prijatelj mi je dal njegovo knjigo, zbirko pesmi, prevedenih v angleščino; prebiral sem jo tedne in tedne ter začel poezijo skoraj spontano spreminjati v besedila pesmi. V njegovem pisanju je nekakšen mračen realizem, ki me je popolnoma očaral. Trmasta ekonomičnost jezika, avtoritativen glas, ki se ne boji pogledati na stvari, kakršne so, v nasprotju s tem, kakršne si želimo, da bi bile. Ne bi rad preveč posploševal in trdil, da Zajčev glas predstavlja večinski del celotne slovenske literarne in druge umetnosti, toda glede na to, kako cenjen je v svoji deželi, bi lahko sklepali, da ima slovenska umetnost mračno, poetično dušo.« »Med snemanjem albuma sem sodeloval z nekaterimi izjemnimi glasbeniki,« dodaja, »in igral pesmi po vsej Evropi. Ko smo album predstavili na koncertu v Cankarjevem domu in je bil odziv zelo pozitiven, celo evforičen, sem končno dojel, da zdaj tukaj živim in da je Ljubljana v resnici moj drugi dom.« Ta mračna, poetična duša zagotovo odzvanja pri Eckmanu, ki vidi v njej vzporednice s svojo glasbo – lirično in v pretežno počasnem tempu. »Ko sem se preselil sem, sem na to gledal kot na začasno spremembo,« še

pove Eckman. »Toda zdaj, ko sem tukaj že nekaj let, si ne znam več predstavljati, da bi se vrnil v Združene države. Za to je sicer več razlogov, eden pa je zagotovo ta, da sem tukaj našel ploden umetniški dom. V moji glasbi je nekakšna splošna estetika, ki preprosto paše sem.« Nič čudnega, da ustvarjalci pesmi, kakršna sta Wynn in Eckman, cenijo slovensko kulturo in občinstvo: besede so namreč tukaj pomembne. »Po mojem mnenju ima klasična glasbena kultura v Evropi velik vpliv na to, kako občinstvo prisluhne glasbi,« dodaja Eckman, ki se – tako kot Wynn – že dolgo posveča turnejam po Evropi. »Poslušalske navade iz koncertnih dvoran prenašajo tudi v majhne klube. V Ameriki je živa glasba na klubski ravni navadno nekakšna podlaga za popivanje in zabavo, tukaj pa je običajno nekoliko drugače. Po pank rok klubih na različnih koncih Evrope sem igral čisto potiho in lahko bi slišal šivanko, če bi padla na tla.« V Ljubljani živeča pisateljica Erica Johnson Debeljak, poročena z znanim slovenskim pesnikom Alešem Debeljakom, je prevedla tudi Zaj-

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Wes Eichenwald

čeve pesmi, ki so tako navdihnile Eckmana. Svoja prva leta v Sloveniji je opisala v knjigi Forbidden Bread (Prepovedani kruh), ki so jo lansko leto izdali pri North Atlantic Books, letos pa bo prevod izšel pri založbi Modrijan. »Morda se mi zdi kulturno vzajemno oplajanje v srednji Evropi ter mešanje kultur in jezikov tako zelo privlačno, ker prihajam iz velike provincialne države – Amerike,« pove. »Pisatelji in pesniki se srečujejo na mednarodnih literarnih festivalih, kakršna sta Medana in Vilenica, ter se pogovarjajo drug z drugim, berejo drug drugemu, prevajajo drug drugega. To mi je tukaj najbolj všeč, ta dvojnost, ta sposobnost, da si hkrati doma v tej zeleni deželici in del širšega sveta.« Debeljakovi se zdi Ljubljana zelo primeren kraj za pisanje. »Čeprav ljubim velike metropole, pa njihov nenehni vrvež in hrup lahko motita mir, ki ga potrebuješ za pisanje,« pravi. »Nasprotno pa ti Ljubljana omogoča prostor, da se zazreš vase oziroma te na nek način v to celo prisili. Včasih deluje kot majhno in osamljeno mesto, kjer lahko najdeš edino uteho v svojem ateljeju in svojem delu, drugič pa spet kot veliko mesto,

kjer te potegne v družbo, v gledališča, v koncertne dvorane in bare. Če bolje pomislimo, so to v resnici idealni pogoji za umetnika.« Na te pronicljive tujce – ki so pogosto do neke mere outsiderji, a vendar s posebno perspektivo – vplivajo njihovi slovenski sodobniki, stvar pa deluje tudi v obratni smeri. Ti začasni prebivalci lahko o svojih izkušnjah v Sloveniji razmišljajo drugače in jih tudi drugače vrednotijo kot ljudje, ki so se tukaj rodili in odraščali. Slovenija jih spremeni, hkrati pa morda tudi oni nekoliko spreminjajo način, kako Slovenija vidi samo sebe in kako zunanji svet gleda nanjo. Osvetljujejo tisto, kar bi sicer ostalo pri nas, kot pravijo Slovenci, se pravi tisto, kar je znano samo domačinom. In morda razkrivajo tudi stvari, ki jih pred njimi ni še nihče opazil. Wes Eichenwald je ameriški pisatelj, ki živi v Austinu, Teksas, ZDA.

{ Ljubljana }

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They Followed Their Beat to Slovenia Foreign artists find inspiration in the culture and landscape – and bestow their own perspective Text: Wes Eichenwald

Photography: Igor Škafar

ack in the summer and fall of 2000, the third European Biennial of Contemporary Art was held in Ljubljana. A poster from that exhibition bore the slogan “Follow your Artbeat to Ljubljana, Slovenia.” Not yet a member of the European Union or NATO, Slovenia remained very much off the beaten track. For many artists, writers and musicians, though, off the beaten track is the only way to go. Certain foreign artists – cultural advance scouts, if you like – have found their way to Slovenia since its independence in 1991 in a steady trickle, if not a flood. If Slovenia’s terra isn’t quite as incognita as it used to be, give a bit of credit to them. Not to suggest that it takes a foreigner to explain the Slovenes to themselves – an absurd notion – but fresh pairs of eyes and ears do bestow a welcome new perspective on old, familiar landscapes. Slovenia has served as a source of artistic inspiration for both shortterm visitors – such as the Brazilian novelist Paulo Coelho, who set his 1998 novel “Veronika Decides to Die” in Ljubljana – and long-term expats

like writer and translator Erica Johnson Debeljak, musician/producer Chris Eckman and writer, photographer and filmmaker Michael Benson, all of whom are Americans married to Slovenes. (Benson, who released a critically praised documentary, “Predictions of Fire,” about the NSK artists’ collective in the framework of Slovenia’s break from Yugoslavia, moved to Manhattan in 2009.) Then there’s alternative rocker Steve Wynn, known for his 1980s Los Angeles band Dream Syndicate and extensive later solo work. Wynn, now a New Yorker, spent three weeks in central Ljubljana in October 2007 in collaboration with his friend Chris Eckman, writing and recording an album later released as “Crossing Dragon Bridge” (named for the well-known bridge in the old city). “The response from the Slovenes was fantastic,” Wynn says. “I came over in March of last year (2009) to perform the album in its entirety with the various musicians who appeared on the record, and there was a feeling of excitement and even a bit of gratitude that I had taken the time to mix our cultures and inspirations. To be honest, I was the one who was grateful, as Ljubljana and the friends I made while I was there helped me to make one of the best records of my career.” Originally from the Pacific Northwest of the USA, Eckman – who has recorded with The Walkabouts and Chris & Carla as well as solo – has been a key resource not only for Wynn but several other musicians. For example, there’s the California-based alt-country band the Willard Grant Conspiracy, which Eckman first invited to Slovenia to open for the Walkabouts; the band has recorded three albums there to date (including one titled “The Green, Green Grass of Slovenia”). Eckman moved to Ljubljana in 2002. An established touring musician and quite at home in Europe, he had a substantial body of work behind him and for some time, didn’t think much about how his adopted home was affecting his songwriting. “For me,” he adds, “a big turning point was the solo album I released in 2008, ‘The Last Side of the Mountain.’ All the lyrics for the album come from the poems of the great Slovenian poet Dane Zajc (1929-2005). A friend of mine gave me a book of his, a collection of his poems translated into English, and I read it over and over for weeks and almost spontaneously started turning the poems into songs. There was a dark realism to his writings that completely appealed to me. A stubborn economy of language, an authoritative voice unafraid to look at things as they are as opposed to how we wish them to be. I would not generalize completely and say that Zajc's poetic voice represents the greater whole of Slovenian literature and art, but his revered status in the country certainly leads one to conclude that Slovenian art has a dark, poetic soul. “I worked with some amazing musicians here to put the album together,” he adds, “and I played the songs all over Europe. When we played the album release concert in Cankarjev Dom, and the response was so positive, even overwhelming, I think it was then that I realized that I now lived here and in fact, Ljubljana is my adopted hometown.” The “dark, poetic soul” certainly resonates with Eckman, who sees parallels in his own music, which is lyric-based and generally slow in tempo. “When I moved here I think I thought of it as a temporary reshuffling of things,” he says. “But after being here for several years, I really do not

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{ Ljubljana }

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see a scenario where I would return back to the States. There are a lot of reasons for this, but one for sure is that I have found a nurturing artistic home here. There is a general aesthetic that my music has that simply ‘fits’.” No wonder that songwriters like Wynn and Eckman appreciate Slovenia’s culture and audiences: Words still matter here. “I think the classical musical culture in Europe has a great influence on the way audiences listen to music,” adds Eckman, who, like Wynn, has long focused his energies on touring Europe. “They bring concert hall listening habits to even small club gigs. In America, live music at the club level tends to operate around drinking and partying. Here it tends to be a bit different. I have played very quiet music in punk rock clubs in Europe and you could hear a pin drop.” Ljubljana-based writer Erica Johnson Debeljak – who translated the volume of Dane Zajc’s poems that so inspired Chris Eckman – is herself married to a noted Slovene poet, Aleš Debeljak, and chronicled her early years in Slovenia in Forbidden Bread, published in 2009 by North Atlantic Books. The Slovene translation, Prepovedani kruh, is due to be published this year by Modrijan. “Perhaps because I come from such a large provincial country, America, I find the cultural cross-fertilization present in Central Europe, the mingling of cultures and languages, extremely appealing,” she says. “Writers and poets come together at international literary festivals, such as Medana and Vilenica, and talk to each other, read to each other, translate each other. That’s what I like most here, this duality: this ability to be simultaneously at home in this little green land, and part of the wider world as well.” Debeljak sees Ljubljana as a very conducive place to write. “As much as I love large metropolitan cities, their constant noise and hubbub can be a distraction from the contemplation needed to create,” she says. “Ljubljana, in contrast, allows you the space to look inward; indeed, in some ways, it forces you to look inward. It functions at times as a small and lonely town where the only consolation lies in your atelier and your work, and at other times as a large city where you are drawn out into the community, the theatres, the concert halls and bars. Ideal conditions, when you think of it, for the artist.” These perceptive foreigners – always outsiders to a degree, but with a special perspective – are influenced by their Slovene counterparts, but it also works in the other direction. These sojourners are able to reflect and refract their experiences of Slovenia differently than those born and raised here. Slovenia changes them, but they may also, in a small way, change the way Slovenia sees itself, and the way the outside world sees Slovenia. They illuminate what would otherwise remain, as the Slovenes put it, pri nas (among us) – i.e., something known only among one’s compatriots. They may even point out things that nobody bothered to notice before.

Wes Eichenwald is an American writer based in Austin, Texas, USA.

Erica Johnson Debeljak

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{ Po pravljiÄ?nih poteh v zgodovino }

Besedilo: Irena Cerar

judske pripovedi skrivajo v sebi drobce zgodovinskega spomina. So skrivnostna vez z davnimi

ljudstvi, ki so živela na ozemlju današnje Slovenije. So odblesk daljnih dogodkov in osebnosti, ki so krojile potek zgodovine. In ne nazadnje, so podoba časa, ko naj bi bajna bitja še živela med ljudmi ... Kraje, omenjene v zgodbah iz preteklosti, lahko obiščemo še danes. Preberite pet zgodb in načrtujte pet zgodovinskih potepanj! Še več idej za izlete, na katerih lahko raziskujemo slovensko kulturno dediščino, najdete v knjigi Pravljične poti v zgodovino avtorice Irene Cerar,

Foto: J. Skok

ki je izšla pri založbi Sidarta.

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Po pravljičnih poteh v zgodovino

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Ilustracija: Ančka Gošnik Godec

Jezero v Tolminski kotlini

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Včasih se je od Mosta do Tolmina razprostiralo jezero. Po njem so plavale barke, ki so imele tudi pristane. Eden takih je bil Pod ključem, kjer je visok in strm skalnat rob. Tam so bile pritrjene zlate »rinke«, da so zanje ljudje privezovali barke in jih priklepali z zlatim ključem.

A jezero ni ostalo za zmeraj. Gori na Slapu je živela tiste čase velika žena z zelenimi

lasmi. Doma je imela veliko rovnico. Z njo je šla dol na Most in prekopala jez, da je jezero odteklo. Prirejeno po Janezu Dolencu (zbirka Zlati Bogatin).

Most na Soči

Zakladnica starodavnih kultur Območje Mosta na Soči je prava arheološka zakladnica. Tu so namreč odkrili najdbe iz bronaste in železne dobe, rimskega in zgodnjesrednjeveškega časa, ki dokazujejo pomembnost kraja skozi obdobje kar treh tisočletij! Hodili bomo po označeni poti, ki so jo ustvarjalci posrečeno poimenovali »Čez Most po modrost«. Znak poti je sovica, ki v grški mitologiji pooseblja modrost; naslikana je bila na ljubkem skifosu, grški obredni posodici, ki so jo leta 2001 našli med arheološkimi izkopavanji na Mostu na Soči.

IZHODIŠČE Most na Soči. Dosežemo ga iz smeri Idrije, Nove Gorice ali Tolmina. Parkiramo v središču naselja, na Placu.

OPIS Od Placa gremo po označeni poti. V župnijski cerkvi sv. Lucije si velja ogledati freske slikarja in kiparja Toneta

Kralja (1900–1975). Po ogledu ostankov železnodobnih in rimskih hiš se povzpnemo na Munihov kuk, kjer je cerkev sv. Mavra. Ljudsko izročilo ve povedati, da naj bi se bil v časih, ko je bilo na Mostu na Soči še bajeslovno jezero iz naše zgodbe, dvigal hrib sv. Mavra iz vode kot otok. Od cerkve se skozi naselje vrnemo na izhodišče.

Foto: J. Skok

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Najprimernejši čas: vsi letni časi Priporočamo obisk Arheološkega muzeja v Mostu na Soči in Tolminskega muzeja, v katerem je slikovito predstavljena zgodovina Mosta na Soči. www.tol-muzej.si Dolžina izleta: od 1.30 do 2 uri

Vrsta izleta: arheološki sprehod. Kulturnozgodovinska pot ima 22 postaj, predlagani opis – krožni sprehod po osrednjem naselju – jih vključuje samo 13. Pot lahko poljubno podaljšamo, enega od obiskov pa namenimo tudi jezeru. Na jezerskih bregovih sta speljani lepo urejeni sprehajalni stezi.

Zemljevidi: priročna žepna zgibanka Čez Most po modrost; Posočje, posoške Julijske Alpe, 1:50.000; Alpski svet – zahodni del, 1:75.000 Zanimivosti v bližini: jezero, Mali muzej Soške fronte – Tolminsko mostišče, Park skulptur, skladi volčanskega apnenca pri Modreju, avstroogrsko vojaško pokopališče v Modrejcah, Babja jama

Foto: J. Skok

Nadmorska višina: 179 m Višina izhodišča: 167 m Višinska razlika: 20 m

Gostišča na poti: gostilne, hotel in okrepčevalnica na Placu

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Po pravljičnih poteh v zgodovino

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Ilustracija: Maša Kozjek

Ajdovski zid

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Skrivnostne ruševine na Lanišču so od nekdaj burile fantazijo domačinov. Kraj so imenovali »Pri šacu«, saj so bili prepričani, da je tu zakopano zlato tele. Marsikoga je zamikalo bogastvo, toda le redki so bili pripravljeni tvegati in zakopati.

Nekoč so bili ljudje prepričani, da so zidovi ostanki nekdanjega mogočnega gradu,

kjer je imel prestol legendarni hunski kralj Atila. Daleč naokoli je bil znan po svoji krutosti in prebivalstvo je pod njegovo vlado zelo trpelo. Preganjal in mučil je ljudi ter jih prisilil, da okoli Logatca zgradijo obzidje. Ko je nenadoma umrl, so gradnjo opustili in ljudje so se vrnili na svoje domove.

Zidovje se je sčasoma porušilo in domačini so ga poimenovali ajdovski zid – v spomin

na tiranskega brezbožnega kralja Atilo, na ajdovskega kralja. Prirejeno po Marku Frelihu (Logatec – Longaticum in rimski obrambni sistem Claustra Alpium Iualiarum).

Neodkrita zaklada

Na potepanju po planoti Hrušici si je težje predstavljati, da so po tamkajšnjih samotnih kolovozih nekoč korakale trume rimskih vojakov s slavnimi vojskovodji in cesarji na čelu, antični trgovci pa so po strmih bregovih tovorili blago celo s kamelami ... Čez Hrušico je bila pred 2000 leti zgrajena cesta, ki je povezovala Akvilejo (Oglej v današnji Italiji) z Emono (Ljubljana). Na njeni najvišji točki so Rimljani v drugi polovici 3. stoletja zgradili vojaško utrdbo Ad Pirum, ki je bila del obsežnega obrambnega sistema, imenovanega Claustra Alpium Iuliarum (Zaporni zid Julijskih Alp). Na bližnjem Lanišču si lahko ogledamo lepo obnovljeno poznorimsko utrdbo, ki jo ljudsko izročilo pripisuje hunskemu vladarju Atili.

IZHODIŠČE Lanišče in Hrušica. Do obeh utrdb se lahko pripeljemo z avtomobilom iz smeri Logatca (čez Kalce) ali Ajdovščine (čez Col). Možni dostopi so tudi iz Idrije (čez Godovič in Col), s Črnega Vrha (makadam) ali iz Postojne čez Bukovje (delno asfalt). Od Kalc do Lanišča je 4 kilometre, do Hrušice pa 10. Ob obeh objektih je mogoče parkirati.

OPIS Oba spomenika lahko obhodimo; na Lanišču se lahko pod trdnjavo sprehodimo po kolovozu – nekdanji rimski cesti. Ogled ostankov trdnjave Ad Pirum lahko združimo z ogledom muzejske zbirke Narodnega muzeja Slovenije, ki je v prostorih gostišča Stara pošta. www.nms.si

( 69 ) Foto: M. Kačičnik

Rimski utrdbi na Hrušici

Foto: M. Kačičnik

Nadmorska višina: 858 m (Ad Pirum); 660 m (Lanišče) Višina izhodišča: 858 m, 660 m Višinska razlika: majhna Vrsta izleta: avtomobilski izlet Najprimernejši čas: vsi letni časi, razen v globokem snegu, ko so ostanki obzidja Ad Pirum slabše vidni. Dolžina izleta: prepuščena naši domišljiji in radovednosti.

Gostišče na poti: gostišče Stara pošta na Hrušici Zemljevid: Notranjski kras, 1:50.000

Zanimivosti v bližini: rimska utrdba Castra v Ajdovščini, Sveti Pavel nad Vrtovinom, izvir Hublja, vojaška utrdba in stražna postaja na Vrhniki

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Po pravljičnih poteh v zgodovino

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Graščakinja in škratelj

Ilustracija: Matjaž Schmidt

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Graščakinja s Starega gradu je sedla v

zagledal grajsko hčer, ki je stala pri slavcu. Ker je

kočijo in se odpeljala v škofjeloški grad

deklica od strahu pred čudnim možicem zajokala,

kvartat. Na strmi in kamniti poti se ji je pokvarila

jo je gozdni škrat potolažil, da bo pač prišel naslednji

kočija. Zajokala je in obljubljala, da bi tistemu, ki bi

dan, ker je danes žalostna. Preden je odšel, ji je še

ji popravil kočijo, dala vse, kar bi si želel.

dejal, da bo lahko ostala pri materi, če bo uganila,

kako mu je ime.

Javkanje je slišal gozdni škrat in pohitel h

graščakinji. Za plačilo je zahteval prvo stvar, ki jo

bo naslednje jutro zagledal na grajskem oknu. Rada

povedal, da je videl v gozdu kres, ob njem pa škrata,

mu je ugodila, saj je vedela, da ima na oknu kletko s

ki je med petjem izdal svoje ime.

slavčkom, ki je njeni hčerki razveseljeval srce.

hčer. Naslednje jutro ga je graščakinja nagnala in

Škrat je graščakinji popravil kočijo in naslednje

jutro prišel po plačilo. Na grajskem oknu je najprej

Naslednje jutro je prišel grajski pastir in

Tako se je škratelj obrisal pod nosom za grajsko

za njim zaprla grajsko dver.

Prirejeno po Lojzetu Zupancu (zbirka Kamniti most).

Razvaline stoterih zgodb Škofja Loka je nekoč imela kar tri gradove, ki so skupaj sestavljali enoten obrambni sistem. Nad mestom bdi mogočen Loški grad, na vzpetinici tik ob njem so razvaline Zgornjega stolpa na Kranclju, globlje v gozdu pod Lubnikom pa se skrivajo še ostanki Starega gradu, ki so ga nekoč imenovali Divja loka. Velja za najstarejšo srednjeveško utrdbo na loškem ozemlju, saj je bil prvič omenjen okoli leta 1202. Danes so ohranjene samo zunanje stene gradu, notranjost pa je preraščena s travo, starimi drevesi in zgodbami o roparskih vitezih, hudobnih kraljičnah, oderuških grajskih oskrbnikih ali zakletih kačah, ki preštevajo zlatnike in čakajo na odrešenike …

IZHODIŠČE Loški grad. Parkiramo v Škofji Loki pod gradom, kjer so bila nekoč Poljanska vrata s stražnim stolpom in obrambnim jarkom.

OPIS Po označeni Loški učni poti gremo proti Lubniku. Pri prvi hiši (pri Grebenarju) nadaljujemo po srednji poti naravnost proti gozdu. Na prevalu Kobila nas smerokaz za Stari grad usmeri z asfaltne ceste desno v gozd. Kmalu smo pri ruševinah; notranjost gradu je kot nekakšen naravni amfiteater, nadvse primeren za dobro malico, igro in prebiranje pravljic. Vrnemo se po isti poti.

Foto: J. Skok

Stari grad

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Foto: J. Skok

Nadmorska višina: 501 m Višina izhodišča: 350 m Višinska razlika: 151 m Vrsta izleta: izlet. Pot je nezahtevna, a mestoma slabo označena. Pobočje pod Starim gradom je precej strmo. Najprimernejši čas: vsi letni časi, razen ob novozapadlem snegu.

Gostišča na poti: gostišča v Loškem gradu in v mestu

Dolžina izleta > Loški grad–Stari grad: 50 min.; vrnitev: 30 min.; skupaj: 1.30 h

Zanimivosti v bližini: Loški muzej, Martinova hiša in ostanki mestnega obzidja, Kamniti ali Kapucinski most, Homanova hiša, Stari rotovž, Kašča, Nacetova hiša v Puštalu, Hudičeva brv, Tavčarjev dvorec na Visokem www.loski-muzej.si.

Foto: J. Skok

Zemljevid: Škofja Loka, 1:12.500 Nevarnosti: previdnost na strmem pobočju Starega gradu ne bo odveč, še posebej v mokrem vremenu.

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Po pravljičnih poteh v zgodovino

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Ilustracija: Mojca Cerjak

Vetrni izvir

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Med ljudmi, ki živijo ob potoku Rača in blizu njega, je še živa pripoved o Vetrnem izviru – vodni jami pod vasjo Sveti Andrej. Nekaj domačinov ve povedati, da stoji cerkev na jezeru, zato se ob potresu leta 1885 ni podrla. Nekateri verjamejo, da je pod celotno vasjo jezero, saj je cerkev tudi poleti neverjetno mrzla.

O jezeru in kraškem svetu na tem območju obstaja v ljudskih pripovedih zgodba o

Breznarjevih volih. Le-ti so se pogreznili v hudournik v Zalogu pri Moravčah, pri kmetiji Močivnik. Ljudje so pravili, da je čez nekaj let naplavilo volovski jarem prav pri Vetrnem izviru pod vasjo Sveti Andrej. Po pripovedih domačinov zapisala Mojca Tercelj Otorepec (2008).

Učno-sprehajalna pot Rača Med nemimi mlini

Na učni poti, katere simbol je stilizirano mlinsko kolo, si bomo ogledali štiri vodne mline, ki so nekoč mleli ob Rači. Tik nad strmo dolino Rače pa bomo obiskali tudi dva »junaka« naše zgodbe: cerkev sv. Andreja in kraški izvir pod njo. Cerkev je bila prvič omenjena leta 1526 in je nekdaj imela protiturški tabor, o čemer priča tudi samostojno postavljen zvonik – nekdanji obrambni stolp. V notranjščini skriva izjemne poznogotske freske, ki jih je med letoma 1504 in 1505 naslikal mojster Leonard.

IZHODIŠČE

OPIS

Krašce. Z avtoceste Ljubljana–Maribor zavijemo na izvozu za Krtino in peljemo proti Moravčam. V vasi Krašce zavijemo proti Tuštanju in parkiramo pri gasilskem domu, kjer je izhodišče poti s prvo pojasnjevalno tablo.

Sledimo oznakam poti (mlinsko kolo), ki nas iz Krašc popeljejo do mlinov. Ob vrnitvi pridemo do kraškega izvira pod cerkvijo sv. Andreja. Po ogledu se vrnemo na razpotje in se po levi stezi povzpnemo do cerkve. Nasproti nje stoji Lesjakova domačija, ki je verjetno najstarejša lesena domačija na Moravškem.

Foto: J. Skok

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Opomba: Ključ od Kiževega mlina hrani gospa Ljudmila Urbanija na naslovu Sveti Andrej 9. Ključ od cerkve sv. Andreja imajo Kosmačevi na naslovu Sveti Andrej 2. Nevarnosti: Na poti ni posebnih nevarnosti; zaradi bližine vode pa je dobro imeti s seboj rezervna oblačila (in obutev). Dolžina izleta: od 2 do 3 ure

Vrsta izleta: pot ni zahtevna, a je lahko na posameznih mestih orientacijsko zapletena, zato je priporočljiv natančnejši zemljevid. Najprimernejši čas: najlepše je od pomladi do jeseni.

Zemljevidi: Ljubljana – okolica 1:50 000, Občina Moravče 1:25 000 Zanimivosti v bližini: visokodebelni sadovnjak v Krašcah, kozolci in razpela v Krašcah, grad Tuštanj, cerkev sv. Martina v Moravčah

Foto: J. Skok

Nadmorska višina: 370 m Višina izhodišča: 370 m Višinska razlika: 100 m

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Po pravljičnih poteh v zgodovino

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Ilustracija: Marjan Manček

Na Klužih

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Se je sanjalo rajnkemu stricu Toncu tako: »Vzemi štiri može in pojdi tja na Kluža! Prav takrat, ko bo ponoči odbilo, začnite kopati.«

V sanjah se mu je prav prikazalo, kje morajo kopati. »Ne smete spregovoriti, bodite

tiho in glejte!« In res, vzel je štiri korajžne može in so šli. Gori na zvoniku je odbilo dvanajst – polnoč. Začeli so kopati. Kopljejo in kopljejo. Že so zagledali skrinjo, že so vzdignili pokrov, že se je zasvetilo zlato. Kar se pokaže kočija. Notri so bili vpreženi štirje konji. Iz gobca jim je gorelo. Na kočiji je sedel ta črni hudič.

Eden od mož ni mogel več molčati in je rekel: »A ste ga videli?«

Tisti čas pa je zagrmelo in vse je izginilo. Ni bilo več sledu o kočiji, zakladu in ne o

hudiču. Prirejeno po Mariji Stanonik (Slovenske povedke iz 20. stoletja).

Trdnjava Kluže in Hermannova utrdba Bovška vrata

Kluže. Tja se pripeljemo po cesti, ki pelje iz Bovca proti prelazu Predel (4 km). Parkiramo na manjšem obcestnem parkirišču pri trdnjavi.

OPIS

v več kot 100 metrov dolg predor. Pot je udobna in se počasi vzpenja, ob njej pa lahko opazujemo ostanke strelnih jarkov, kaverne, kline … Ob ostalinah zgornje trdnjave so postavljene informacijske table, ki pojasnjujejo preteklost mogočnih razvalin. Vrnemo se po isti poti.

Napotimo se po vojaški poti, ki se začne nasproti trdnjave, in kmalu vstopimo

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Foto: J. Skok

Trdnjava Kluže je nastala v najožjem delu doline Koritnice, kjer je bilo najlažje nadzorovati pot iz Posočja na Koroško, zato so tu različni oblastniki od 15. stoletja dalje postavljali utrdbe. Leta 1881 so Avstrijci zgradili novo trdnjavo, ki je danes pomemben kulturni spomenik. Na pobočju bližnjega Rombonasa so postavili še dodatno topniško utrdbo Fort Hermann (Hermannova utrdba). Skupaj s Klužami je tvorila Bovško zaporo, najvzhodnejšo v nizu alpskih zapor ob italijanski meji. Sprehod od spodnje trdnjave do ostankov Hermannove trdnjave je prava poslastica za vse ljubitelje vojaške zgodovine.

IZHODIŠČE

Nadmorska višina: 640 m Višina izhodišča: 532 m Višinska razlika: 200 m Vrsta izleta: sprehod. Hoje ni veliko, a je potrebna planinska obutev.

delu je pot sicer lepa in varna, vendar vsekana v strmo prepadno pobočje, zato je potrebna previdnost.

Najprimernejši čas: vse leto, razen pozimi in v mokrem.

Dolžina izleta > Kluže–Hermannova trdnjava: 30 min.; vrnitev: 20 min.; skupaj: 1 h

Nevarnosti: Pri raziskovanju ruševin bodimo previdni in ne preveč pogumni. V zgornjem

Zemljevid: Bovec z okolico, 1:25.000; Alpski svet – zahodni del, 1:75.000

Odpiralni čas trdnjave Kluže preverite na spletni strani www.kluze.net. Zanimivosti v bližini: grajski vodnjak, korita Koritnice, Možnice in Nemčlje, dolina Bavšice, Loške Koritnice, ruševine trdnjave in spomenik umirajočega leva na Predelu, vojaško pokopališče iz prve svetovne vojne.

Foto: J. Skok

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{ Fairy-Tale Paths into History }

olk tales conceal in themselves tiny fragments of historical memory. They are a mysterious connection with the ancient peoples who lived in what is today Slovenia. They are the reﬂection of far-oﬀ events

and figures who shaped the course of history. Last but not least, they are the image of a time when fabulous creatures still lived among people… The places mentioned in these stories from the past can still be visited today. Examine the five stories and plan five historical expeditions! You will find more ideas for excursions that explore Slovenia's cultural heritage in Irena Cerar's book Pravljične poti v zgodovino (Fairy-Tale Paths into History), published by Sidarta.

Text: Irena Cerar

{ Fairy-Tale Paths into History }

The Lake in the Tolmin Basin Once upon a time the entire area between Most na Soči and Tolmin was a lake. Boats sailed on it and there were landing stages along the shores. One of these was Pod Ključem (“Under Lock and Key”), where there is a high, steep, rocky bank. Golden rings were fixed there for people to tie up their boats. They secured their boats with a golden key. But the lake was not destined to remain forever. Up at the waterfall (Slap), there lived a giantess with green hair. In her house she kept a large mattock. Taking this up, she went down to Most na Soči and dug up the dam, with the result that the lake drained away.

Most na Soči. Can be reached from the direction of Idrija, Nova Gorica or Tolmin. Parking is in the centre of the town (Plac).

Type of excursion: Archaeological walk. The cultural history route has 22 stops, the proposed description – a circular walk through the central settlement – includes just 13 of them. The route can be extended, with one of the visits taking in the lake. Well-maintained paths lead along the lake shores.

DESCRIPTION

Best time of year: All year round.

Adapted from: Janez Dolenc, Zlati Bogatin

Most na Soči

A treasury of ancient cultures

Foto: M. Grego

The area around Most na Soči is a real archaeological treasure house. Finds here include artefacts from the Bronze Age and the Iron Age, the Roman era and the early Middle Ages, something which demonstrates the importance of this place over the course of three millennia! The excursion will follow the marked path that has been aptly named “Over the Bridge to Wisdom” (a play on the name Most na Soči, which means “Bridge on the River Soča”). The symbol of the path is the owl, which in Greek mythology represents wisdom and was painted on the delightful skyphos or ceremonial wine-cup of Greek origin found in 2001 during archaeological digs at Most na Soči.

Height above sea level: 179 m Height of starting point: 167 m Height difference: 20 m

STARTING POINT

From Plac, follow the marked path. The parish church of St Lucy’s is worth visiting for the frescoes by the painter and sculptor Tone Kralj (1900–1975). After viewing the remains of Iron Age and Roman houses, climb up Munihov Kuk (Munih's Hill), to St Maurus’ Church. According to folk tradition, back in the days when the mythical lake from our story still covered the land around Most na Soči, St Maurus' hill rose up from the water like an island. From the church, return through the settlement to the starting-point.

We recommend a visit to the Archaeology Museum in Most na Soči and to the Tolmin Museum, in which there is an attractive presentation of the history of Most na Soči. www.tol-muzej.si Duration: 1.5–2 hrs Refreshments along the route: Restaurants, hotel and snack bar on the main square (Plac) Map: Handy pocket leaflet Čez Most po modrost (“Over the Bridge to Wisdom”) The Soča Basin and the Julian Alps, 1 : 50,000 The Alpine Area – western part, 1 : 75,000 Sights of interest in the vicinity: The lake, Little Museum of the Tolmin Bridgehead, Sculpture Park, blocks of Volče limestone near Modrej, Austro-Hungarian military cemetery in Modrejce, Babja Jama cave

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{ Fairy-Tale Paths into History }

The Pagan Wall

Adapted from: Marko Frelih, Logatec – Longaticum in rimski obrambni sistem Claustra Alpium Iuliarum

The Roman fortiﬁcations on Hrušica

Lanišče and Hrušica. Both fortifications can be reached by car from Logatec (via Kalce) or

Best time of year: All year round except in deep snow, when the remains of the Ad Pirum fortification are less visible.

Map: The Notranjska Karst, 1 : 50,000

Ajdovščina (via Col). Access is also possible from Idrija (via Godovič and Col), Črni Vrh (macadam) or Postojna via Bukovje (partly asphalt). Kalce is 4 kilometres from Lanišče and 10 kilometres from Hrušica. Parking is available at both sites.

DESCRIPTION STARTING POINT

Type of excursion: Excursion by car

Refreshments along the route: Stara Pošta inn in Hrušica

An undiscovered treasure

As you wander across the plateau of Hrušica it is hard to imagine that Roman legionaries once marched along these lonely tracks with their famous generals and emperors, or that in ancient times merchants transported their goods across the steep slopes on the backs of camels… Two thousand years ago a road linking Aquileia (in present-day Italy) and Emona (present-day Ljubljana) was built across Hrušica. At its highest point the Romans built the military fortification Ad Pirum in the second half of the third century. This was part of the extensive defensive system called the Claustra Alpium Iuliarum (Julian Alps Barrier). In nearby Lanišče we can view a beautifully restored Late Roman fortification which folk tradition attributes to Attila the Hun.

Height above sea level: 858 m (Ad Pirum); 660 m (Lanišče) Height of starting point: 858 m, 660 m Height difference: small

Duration: Left to your imagination and curiosity

Foto: M. Kačičnik

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The mysterious ruins at Lanišče have long excited the imagination of local people. They called the place Pri Šacu (“By the Treasure”) because they believed that a golden calf was buried here. Many people were tempted by the thought of riches but few were willing to take the risk and start digging. At one time people believed that the walls were the remains of a mighty castle where Attila, the legendary king of the Huns, had his throne. He was famous far and wide for his cruelty and the population suffered greatly under his rule. He persecuted and tortured the local inhabitants and compelled them to build a wall around Logatec. When he died unexpectedly, construction was abandoned and the people returned to their homes. Over time the wall fell into ruin. The local people referred to it as the “Pagan Wall”: in memory of the tyrannical, godless king Attila, the pagan king.

Both monuments can be visited; at Lanišče you can walk along the cart track below the fortification – the former Roman road. The

Sights of interest in the vicinity: Roman fortified camp (Castra) in Ajdovščina, Sveti Pavel nad Vrtovinom, source of the Hubelj, military fortification and watchtower at Vrhnika. www.nms.si

remains of the Ad Pirum fortification can be combined with a visit to the museum collection of the National Museum of Slovenia located in the Stara Pošta (Old Post Oﬃce) inn.

{ Fairy-Tale Paths into History }

The Chatelaine and the Dwarf The chatelaine of the Old Castle sat in her carriage and set off to Loka Castle to play cards. On the steep and rocky road her carriage broke a wheel. She began to weep, and promised that to whoever repaired her carriage she would give everything he wished for. Her laments were heard by a dwarf from the forest, who hurried to the chatelaine's aid. By way of payment he asked to be granted the first thing that met his eye in the castle window the following morning. The lady was happy to grant his request, since she knew that in the window there was a cage containing a nightingale, whose singing delighted her young daughter. The dwarf repaired the carriage and, the next morning, came for his payment. The first thing he caught sight of in the castle window was the chatelaine's daughter, who was standing by the nightingale's cage. When the daughter burst into tears at the sight of the strange little man, the forest dwarf consoled her saying that he would come for her the next day, because today she was sad. Before he left, he told her that she could stay with her mother if she succeeded in guessing his name. The next morning a shepherd came to the castle and said that he had seen a bonfire in the forest and, beside it, the dwarf – who was singing a song in which he revealed his name. And thus the dwarf did not get the chatelaine's daughter. The next morning the chatelaine chased him away and closed the castle gates behind him. Adapted from: Lojze Zupanc, Kamniti most

The Old Castle

Ruins containing countless stories Škofja Loka once had three castles, which together formed a single defensive system. Above the town is the mighty Loka Castle, on the hill behind it, called Krancelj, are the ruins of the Upper Tower, and deep in the forest below Lubnik the remains of the Old Castle, once known as Divja Loka, are concealed. This is the oldest medieval fortification in the Loka territory and its first mention in historical sources dates from around 1202. Today only the outer walls of the castle survive, while the interior is overgrown with grass, old trees, and stories of robber barons, wicked princesses, usurious bailiffs or enchanted serpents that count gold coins and wait for someone to save them…

STARTING POINT Loka Castle. Park in Škofja Loka below the castle, on the former site of the Poljane Gate with its watchtower and moat.

DESCRIPTION Follow the marked Loka history trail in the direction of Lubnik. At the first house (Grebenar’s), continue along the middle path towards the forest. At the Kobila Pass the signpost for the Old Castle directs you from the asphalt road to the right, into the forest. You will soon reach the ruins; the interior of the castle is a kind of natural amphitheatre, perfect for a picnic, for playing and for reading fairy tales. The return is by the same route.

Height above sea level: 501 m Height of starting point: 350 m Height difference: 151 m Type of excursion: Excursion. The route is easy but poorly marked in places. The slope below the Old Castle is quite steep. Best time of year: All year round except immediately after a snowfall. Dangers: It is advisable to take care on the steep slope of the Old Castle, particularly in wet weather. Duration: Loka Castle to Old Castle, 50 min Return 30 min Total 1.5 hrs Refreshments along the route: Restaurants in Loka Castle and in the town Map: Škofja Loka, 1 : 12,500 Sights of interest in the vicinity: Loka Museum, the Martin House and remains of the town walls, the Stone Bridge (or Capuchin Bridge), the Homan House, the Old Town Hall, the Granary, the Ignac “Nace” Homan House in Puštal, the Devil's Bridge, Tavčar Hall in Visoko. www.loski-muzej.si.

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{ Fairy-Tale Paths into History }

The Spring of the Wind The people living along the Rača stream or thereabouts still tell the story of the Spring of the Wind – a flooded cave below the village of Sveti Andrej. Some locals say that the village church stands in a lake, and that is why it was not destroyed by the earthquake of 1885. Some believe that there is a lake beneath the whole village, which explains why the church is incredibly cold even in winter. Folk tales about the lake and the local karst landscape include the story of Breznar’s oxen. According to the story, these oxen plunged into a torrential stream at Zalog near Moravče, by the Močivnik Farm. A few years later, so the story goes, a yoke was washed up at the Spring of the Wind below the village of Sveti Andrej. Based on local tales written down by: Mojca Tercelj Otorepec, 2008

The Rača Path Among silent mills

Along this path, whose symbol is a stylised millwheel, you can see four watermills that were once fed by the Rača stream. Immediately above the steep valley of the Rača you can also visit the “hero” of our story: St Andrew’s Church and the karst spring below it. The church is first mentioned in historical sources dating from 1526 and was once surrounded by a tabor, defensive walls behind which people took refuge during Turkish raids. Evidence of this is the free-standing bell tower, which once had a defensive function. Inside the church

are some marvellous Late Gothic frescoes painted between 1504 and 1505 by a master painter who signed himself Leonardus.

STARTING POINT Krašce. Turn off the Ljubljana–Maribor motorway at the Krtina exit and head for Moravče. In the village of Krašce take the Tuštanj turning and park by the fire station, where you will find the start of the path and the first information board.

DESCRIPTION Follow the markings of the path (millwheel symbol) that leads from Krašce to the mills. On the way back stop at the karst spring

Type of excursion: The path is not difficult but orientation can be complicated in places, so a good map is recommended. Best time of year: Spring to autumn Note: The key to the Kižev Mill is kept by Mrs Ljudmila Urbanija at Sveti Andrej 9. The key to St Andrew’s Church is kept by the Kosmač family at Sveti Andrej 2. Dangers: There are no particular dangers along the path; owing to the proximity of water, it is a good idea to bring spare clothes (and footwear). Duration: 2–3 h Map: Ljubljana–surrounding area 1 : 50,000 Municipality of Moravče 1 : 25,000 Sights of interest in the vicinity: Orchard in Krašce, hayracks and crucifixes in Krašce, Tuštanj Castle, St Martin’s Church in Moravče.

Foto: J. Skok

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Height above sea level: 370 m Height of starting point: 370 m Height difference: 100 m

below St Andrew's Church. After visiting the spring return to the crossroads and take the left-hand path up to the church. Opposite the church stands the Lesjak farmhouse, believed to be the oldest wooden dwelling in the Moravče area.

{ Fairy-Tale Paths into History }

Kluže Old Uncle Tonec had a dream: “Take four men and go to Kluže! At the stroke of midnight, start digging.” In his dream he was shown where to dig. “Do not talk, keep quiet and watch!” And so he took four brave men and off they went. Up in the belfry the clock struck twelve – it was midnight. They began to dig. They dug and dug. They caught sight of a chest… they lifted the lid… they saw the gleam of gold. Suddenly a carriage appeared, drawn by four horses. Flames came from their mouths. A black devil was seated in the carriage. One of the men could no longer keep silent and said: “Did you see him?” At that moment there was a clap of thunder and everything disappeared. Not a trace remained of the carriage, the treasure or the devil. Adapted from: Marija Stanonik, Slovenske povedke iz 20. stoletja

The Bovec Gate

Kluže stands in the narrowest part of the valley of the Koritnica, where it was easiest to control the route from the Soča Basin into Koroška. This was the reason that various rulers from the 15th century onwards built fortifications here. In 1881 the Austrians built a new fortress which is today an important cultural monument. On the slope of nearby Mt Rombon they built an additional artillery position known as Fort Hermann. Together with Kluže the fort formed the Bovec Gate, the easternmost in the series of Alpine fortifications along the Italian border. A walk from the lower fortress to the ruins of Hermann’s Fort is a real treat for all military history enthusiasts.

tunnel over 100 metres long. The path is easy with occasional ascending sections. Along the path the remains of firing trenches, dugouts, pitons, etc., can be seen. Information boards explain the history of the ruins of the upper fort. The return is by the same route.

Foto: J. Skok

Kluže. To reach the starting point from Bovec, follow the road leading from Bovec in the direction of the Predel Pass (4 km). Park in the small roadside car park by the fortress.

The route follows the army trail that begins opposite the fortress and soon enters a

Best time of year: All year round except in winter and in wet weather. Dangers: It is important to be careful when exploring ruins. The upper section of the path is safe and well maintained but it is cut into a precipitous slope and therefore caution is necessary.

Map: Bovec and the surrounding area, 1 : 25,000 The Alpine Area – western part, 1 : 75,000 Check the Kluže opening hours online at www.kluze.net.

STARTING POINT

DESCRIPTION

Type of excursion: Walk. Although there is not much walking, appropriate footwear should be worn.

Duration: Kluže–Hermann’s Fort 30 min Return 20 min Total 1 hr Foto: J. Skok

Kluže Fortress and the Hermann Fort

Height above sea level: 640 m Height of starting point: 532 m Height difference: 200 m

Sights of interest in the vicinity: Castle well, gorges of the Koritnica, the Možnica and the Nemčlja, the valleys of the Bavšica and the Loška Koritnica, the ruins of the fort and the dying lion monument in Predel, WW1 cemetery.

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Muzej pošte in telekomunikacij v Polhovem Gradcu ( 82 )

rečala sva se v odročni vasici visoko nad dolino. »Poštar pripelje,« odgovori osemdesetletna Rozalija na moje vprašanje, kdo ji prinese

sem gor kavo, sladkor in ostalo špecerijo. Za peščico ostarelih prebivalcev visoko in daleč od vsega, kar se nam večini zdi samoumevno in od česar nas loči nekaj korakov. Poštar je v tem okolju ohranil nadvse pomembno vlogo. Zanj se ve, da zagotovo pride, in to nekaj šteje. Razvažanje kave in sladkorja najbrž ni na spisku službenih dolžnosti sodobnega poštarja, a vendar bi brez organizirane poštne službe možnost za takšno prijaznost sploh ne obstajala.

Besedilo in fotografije: Branko Čeak in Nataša Mandelj

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{ Pošta }

ošta je definirana kot organizacija, ki posreduje različna sporočila in blago na večje razdalje. Ime izhaja iz latinskega posita statio, kar pomeni postaja za menjavo konj. Njeno zgodbo pripoveduje muzej za zidovi polhograjske graščine. »Leta 490 pr. n. št. je perzijska vojska oblegala starogrške državice z namenom, da uniči Šparto in Atene. Napadli so Eretrijo in se utaborili na Maratonskem polju, del vojske pa je odplul proti Atenam. Te so poslale sla Fedipija v Šparto po pomoč. Z odgovorom je tekel na Maratonsko polje, kjer pa je bila bitka že končana. Stekel je še 42 km do Aten in tam sporočil: ›Zmagali smo,‹ ter se mrtev zgrudil.«

zgodba

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To je o razvoju prenašanja sporočil, katerega gonilo je nezadržna sla po sporazumevanju med ljudmi. Legenda o maratoncu je prva zgodba, ki nas nagovori v Muzeju pošte in telekomunikacij v Polhovem Gradcu. Sooči nas z dolgo potjo, ki jo je prehodilo človeštvo v tehniki sporazumevanja na daljavo. Danes bi imeli obe vojski med prodiranjem v svojih vrstah »embedded« poročevalce, ki bi sproti obveščali o vsem, in na Maratonskem polju bi televizijske kamere že čakale na prenos v živo. Tedaj pa je sporazumevanje na razdaljo teklo na dveh nogah. Kaj vse je moral na svoji poti doživeti nosilec sporočila Fedipij in kako nadčloveška predanost nalogi ga je gnala prek roba zmogljivosti? In ne nazadnje – kako staro novico o zmagi so prejeli Atenci? V grajskih sobanah, kjer so se v prvi polovici 19. stol. okrog grofa Blagaja zbirali razsvetljenci s svojimi naprednimi idejami, je na ogled muzejska zbirka, ki priča o počasnem prehajanju prvih besed k nevidnim nitim telekomunikacijskih omrežij. To je zgodba o razvoju prenašanja sporočil, katerega gonilo je nezadržna sla po sporazumevanju med ljudmi. In je zgodba o ljudeh, ki so omogočali to izmenjavo informacij med dvema stranema. Telegrafistke in telefonistke, razstava avtorice dr. Ljudmile Bezlaj Krevel, govori o emancipaciji žensk, ki so v tem razvoju dejavno sodelovale. Izum telegrafa in telefona je omogočil zaposlovanje in zaslužek izobraženim; tako so lahko nepreskrbljene dame iz višjih slojev ohranjale družbeni status. S strani delodajalcev so bile ženske iz več razlogov odlična rešitev, na žalost v prvi vrsti zato, ker so jih plačevali precej manj kot moške na istih delovnih mestih. Proti koncu stoletja so jim postopno dvigovali plačo in boj za emancipacijo je bil tako začet, dobljen nekoliko kasneje. Na razstavi ob tem bode v oči podatek, da so na tekmovanjih telegrafistk/-ov v vseh kategorijah zmagovale – ženske.

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{ Pošta }

{ Postal service }

The Post Office and Telecommunications Museum in Polhov Gradec ( 86 )

Text and photography: Branko Čeak, Nataša Mandelj

“T

he postman brings them,” says Rozalija, 80, when I ask her who brings coffee, sugar and other groceries all the way up here. We were in a remote little village high above the valley. For the handful of elderly villagers who live here, far away from everything that most of us take for granted because it is never more than a few steps away, the postman still plays a very important role. People know that he will come without fail, and that counts for something. Delivering coffee and sugar is probably not on the list of duties of most modern postmen, but without an organised postal service the possibility of everyday kindnesses such as this would not exist at all. The definition of a postal service is an organisation that delivers various communications and goods over large distances. The name comes from the Latin posita statio, which means station for changing horses. Its story is told by the museum behind the walls of the manor house in Polhov Gradec. “In the year 490 BC the Persian army laid siege to the city-states of Ancient Greece in an attempt to destroy Sparta and Athens. They attacked Eritria and set up camp on the plain of Marathon, while part of the army set sail for Athens. The Athenians sent a messenger, Pheidippides, to Sparta to ask for help. He returned to the plain of Marathon with their reply, but when he got there the battle was already over. He then ran the 42 kilometres to Athens, where he delivered the message 'We were victorious' and promptly fell down dead.” The legend of the Marathon runner is the first story we are told on entering the Post Office and Telecommunications Museum in Polhov Gradec. It shows us how far humanity has come in terms of techniques

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{ Postal Service }

{ Postal service } for communicating over long distances. These days both armies would have had embedded reporters in their ranks to supply regular updates during the advance, and by the time they reached the plain of Marathon the television cameras would have been ready to begin the live broadcast. In ancient times, however, long-distance communication was on two legs. What must Pheidippides, the bearer of the message, have experienced on his journey? What superhuman commitment to his task drove him to the edge of his capacities and beyond? And finally, how did the Athenians receive the (old) news of the victory? The grand rooms of the manor house, where in the first half of the 19th century Count Blagaj was the centre of a circle of intellectuals with

story

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It is the of the development of the transmission of messages, driven by an unstoppable desire for communication between people. progressive ideas, today house a museum collection illustrating the gradual transition from the first messengers to the invisible filaments of telecommunications networks. It is the story of the development of the transmission of messages, driven by an unstoppable desire for communication between people. And the story of the people who made possible the exchange of information between two parties. Women in Telephony and Telegraphy, an exhibition curated by Dr Ljudmila Bezlaj Krevel, talks about the emancipation of women, who played an active part in this development. The invention of the telegraph and telephone provided employment and a source of income for educated but impoverished ladies from high social classes who could do this work without sacrificing social status. From the point of view of the employers, women were an excellent solution for several reasons. In the first place, unfortunately, because they were able to pay them considerably less than the men who did the same job. Towards the end of the century their wages were gradually increased and the battle for emancipation began. Some time would pass before it was finally won. With this in mind, it is interesting to note that in telegraphy competitions in all categories the winning telegraphists were women..

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{ Postal Service }

Foto: N. Mandelj

{ Pošta }

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Lovrenc Košir

pobudnik poštne znamke Besedilo: Srečko Beričič

ovrenc Košir je že davnega leta 1836 predložil cesarsko-kraljevi splošni dvorni komori na Dunaju predlog o plačevanja poštnih storitev. Svetoval je, prvi v Avstriji, da bi z gumirano pisemsko znamko, ki bi jo prilepili na pismo, pošiljatelj pisemske pošiljke dokazal, da je plačal poštnino. Žal je bil njegov predlog

vpeljave pisemske ali poštne znamke zavrnjen. Poznavalci se sprašujejo, ali se je sploh kdo v dvornem poštnem knjigovodstvu ali v dvorni komori potrudil in Koširjeve predloge natančno prebral ali premislil. Vsekakor je mogoče, da ni nihče prepoznal, kako velike izboljšave bi prinesli njegovi predlogi v vsem poštnem prometu. Tudi takratno nezdravo politično ozadje v predmarčni Avstriji je ohranjalo vsa do tedaj tradicionalna pravila in postopke. Vsaka novotarija je bila že vnaprej z zgražanjem zavrnjena. Še huje je bilo, če je novost posegala v kočljive in tajne postopke Metternichovega policijskega režima cenzure pisem.

poštnimi reformami se je v Veliki Britaniji od leta 1837 ukvarjal angleški učitelj Rowland Hill. Na njegovo pobudo je angleška pošta leta 1840 izdala prvo pisemsko znamko na svetu – črni peni (Penny Black). Ta dogodek je Koširja močno prizadel, saj so zaradi zavrnitve njegovega predloga pisemsko znamko vpeljali v Avstriji šele leta 1850, torej deset let po izidu črnega penija v Angliji. Leta 1874, ko je bil v Bernu sprejet sklep o ustanovitvi Mednarodne poštne zveze, je Košir še zadnjič poslal svoj predlog iz leta 1836 v Švico, da bi mu svetovno poštno združenje priznalo primat o ideji gumirane poštne znamke. Vendar se predstavniki pošt na kongresu v Bernu o njegovem predlogu niso želeli opredeljevati, saj je bil angleški vpliv v združenju zelo močan. Košir se je še istega leta upokojil in se iz Zagreba preselil spet na Dunaj, kjer je bolan, zagrenjen in pozabljen umrl leta 1879. Lovrenc Košir bi tako za vedno ostal pozabljen, če ne bi začel neposredno pred drugo svetovno vojno, leta 1939, preučevati njegovega dela in življenja znani slovenski filatelist in član Filatelističnega kluba Ljubljana Ferdinand Kobal, Idrijčan, zaposlen na nekdanji finančni direkciji v Ljubljani. Leta 1949 je bil med ustanovitelji Filatelistične zveze Slovenije in njen prvi predsednik. Kasneje se mu je pridružil še dr. Erhard Riedl iz Avstrije. Njuno delo je obrodilo sadove, saj so tako v takratni Jugoslaviji kakor tudi v Avstriji izšle priložnostne poštne znamke s portretom Lovrenca Koširja. V knjigi avstrijske poštne uprave »100 let avstrijske znamke« iz leta 1950 je Koširju posvečeno posebno poglavje. Leta 1954 pa je edino doslej popolno delo o Koširju z naslovom Lovrenc Košir izdal generalni direktor jugoslovanskega PTT, dr. Miomir Mičić iz Beograda. Biografija dr. Ernsta Bernardinija iz Avstrije je delo avtorja, ki se je najbolj poglobil v že znano dokumentacijo o Koširju in odkrival še nove dokumente, ki pričajo, da je bil Košir resnično reformator poštnih financ in pobudnik ideje za vpeljavo poštne znamke. Poštni organizaciji Avstrije in Slovenije sta Koširju priznali pomembno mesto v zgodovini poštnega prometa. Ob 200. obletnici rojstva našega znamenitega rojaka je izdala Pošta Slovenije na pobudo slovenskih filatelistov priložnostno poštno znamko z motivi Koširja, njegove rojstne hiše in detajlom dopisa z njegovim podpisom.

b 200. obletnici rojstva in 125-letnici smrti pobudnika poštne znamke Lovrenca Koširja je Občina Škofja Loka 11. junija 2004 na pobudo Filatelističnega društva „Lovro Košir“ Škofja

Loka in Muzejskega društva Škofja Loka postavila v aleji znamenitih Ločanov spominsko obeležje – relief Lovrenca Koširja, delo akademskega kiparja Metoda Frlica. Praznovanje te pomembne obletnice so filatelisti počastili z odprtjem 4. državne tekmovalne filatelistične razstave LOKAFILA 2004 in mednarodne filatelistične razstave EUROPHILA 2004 ter z mednarodnim simpozijem o Lovrencu Koširju s predstavitvijo slovenske izdaje knjige Življenjepis Lovrenca Koširja avtorja dr. Ernsta Bernardinija iz Avstrije. Knjigo je avtor napisal po petletnem proučevanju že znanih in novih Koširjevih dokumentov iz arhivov na Dunaju, v Zagrebu, Leipzigu in Bernu ter Kobalove zapuščine v Loškem muzeju in ga postavil na mesto, ki mu pripada.

n 11 June 2004, to mark the 200th anniversary of the birth

and the 125th anniversary of the death of Lovrenc Košir, the inventor of the postage stamp, the Municipality of Škofja Loka

unveiled a commemorative relief of Lovrenc Košir by the sculptor Metod Frlic in the Avenue of Famous Škofja Lokans. The erecting of this monument was proposed by the Lovro Košir Philatelic Society of Škofja Loka and the Škofja Loka Museum Society. Philatelists marked the celebration of this important anniversary with the opening of LOKAFILA 2004 (the fourth edition of a national competitive philatelic exhibition), the international philatelic exhibition EUROPHILA 2004, and an international symposium on Lovrenc Košir with a presentation of the Slovene edition of the biography of Lovrenc Košir by Dr Ernst Bernardini. This book is the result of five years' study of all known documents on Košir and other hitherto unknown documents from the archives in Vienna, Zagreb, Leipzig and Berne and the Kobal bequest in Škofja Loka Museum, and finally restores Košir to his rightful place.

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{ Postal service }

Lovrenc Košir

the inventor of the postage stamp Text: Srečko Beričič

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Briefmarke [100 Years of Austrian Postage Stamps] published by the Austrian Post Office devotes a special chapter to Košir. The only complete work to date on Košir – Lovrenc Košir by Dr Miomir Mičić, the director-general of the Yugoslav PTT – was published in Belgrade in 1954. Košir's biographer Dr Ernst Bernardini of Austria has gone more deeply than anyone else into the known documentation about Košir and even discovered new documents proving that Košir was genuinely a postal reformer and the proposer of the idea to introduce the postage stamp. The postal services of Austria and Slovenia have recognised Košir's important place in postal history. To mark the bicentenary of the birth of our famous countryman, Slovenia's postal service Pošta Slovenije issued, at the suggestion of Slovene philatelists, a commemorative postage stamp showing Košir, the house where he was born and a detail of a letter with his signature.

Foto: N. Mandelj

t was in 1836 that Lovrenc Košir submitted to the KaiserlichKöniglich allgemeine Hofkammer (the department of finance and commerce) in Vienna a proposal for a way of paying for postal services. He was the first in Austria to suggest the attaching of a gummed stamp to a letter to show that the sender had paid the postage. Unfortunately his proposal for the introduction of a postage stamp was rejected. Experts today wonder whether anyone at the postal service bookkeeping office or the Hofkammer actually made an effort to read or consider Košir's proposal. It is of course possible that no one realised what a great improvement his proposal would have meant for all postal traffic. Despite the unhealthy political background in the Austria of the Vormärz period (1815–1848), the empire still conserved all of its traditional rules and procedures. Every innovation was indignantly rejected out of hand. Especially if it related to delicate and secret matters such as the censorship of letters by Metternich's police. In 1837 the British educator and reformer Rowland Hill began to take an interest in postal reforms. In 1840, in response to Hill's proposal, the British Post Office issued the world's first postage stamp – the Penny Black. This event affected Košir greatly, since as a result of the rejection of his proposal the postage stamp was not introduced in Austria until 1850, ten years after the appearance of the Penny Black in England. In 1874, with the adoption in Berne of a resolution establishing the Universal Postal Union, Košir sent his 1836 proposal to Switzerland in a last attempt to win official recognition as the first person to come up with the idea of the gummed postage stamp. The representatives of national postal services at the conference in Berne were, however, reluctant to express a view on Košir's proposal, since the British influence in the Union was very strong. That same year Košir retired and moved from Zagreb back to Vienna where, bitter and forgotten, he died in 1879. Lovrenc Košir would have remained forgotten forever had it not been for Ferdinand Kobal, a Slovene philatelist from Idrija. Kobal, an employee of the former Financial Directorate in Ljubljana and a member of the Ljubljana Philatelic Club, began studying Košir's life and work in 1939, just before the outbreak of the Second World War. In 1949 Kobal became one of the founders of the Philatelic Union of Slovenia and its first president. He was later joined by Dr Erhard Riedl of Austria. Their work bore fruit and commemorative postage stamps bearing the portrait of Lovrenc Košir were issued in Yugoslavia and in Austria. The 1950 book 100 Jahre Österreichische

Foto: B. Čeak

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ovrenc Košir je bil rojen v Spodnji Luši v Selški dolini pri Škofji Loki. V krstni knjigi župnije Selca, ki jo hranijo v Nadškofijskem arhivu v Ljubljani, piše, da se je očetu Janezu Koširju in materi Mariji Kalan iz

ovrenc Košir was born in Spodnja Luša in the valley of Selška Dolina near Škofja Loka. The baptismal register of the parish of Selca, kept in the Archdiocesan Archives in Ljubljana, records that on 29 July

Spodnje Luše številka 8, po domače pri Fojkarju, 29. julija 1804 rodil zakon-

1804 a legitimate son was born to Janez Košir and Marija Kalan of Spodnja

ski sin. Koširjeva rojstna hiša je še vedno znana pod tem domačim imenom.

Luša in house number 8, known locally as the Fojkar house. Košir's birth-

Novorojenčka je kaplan Blaž Brautz še istega dne krstil na ime Laurentius.

place is still known by this local name. That same day, the newborn baby was

Njegova botra sta bila Jurij Benedik in Marjeta Sušnik.

christened Laurentius by the chaplain Blaž Brautz. His godparents were Jurij

O otroštvu in mladosti Lovrenca Koširja žal ni nobenih drugih osebnih dokumentov. Iz šolskih seznamov in drugih dokumentov v Zgodovinskem arhivu

Benedik and Marjeta Sušnik. There are unfortunately no other personal documents about Lovrenc

mesta Ljubljane je razvidno, da je imel Košir ob zaključku svojega šolanja za

Košir's youth. We know from school registers and other documents held by

tisti čas odlično izobrazbo. Po osnovni šoli je končal gimnazijo v Ljubljani z

the Historical Archive of the City of Ljubljana that, by the time he completed

najboljšim uspehom. Z odličnim uspehom je opravil tudi študij na jezuitskem

his schooling, Košir had what was for that time an excellent education. After

liceju. Košir je brez prekinitve več kot 40 let služboval v državni službi na

elementary school he graduated from the Gymnasium in Ljubljana with the

finančnem oddelku poštnih uprav v Zagrebu, Milanu in na Dunaju, zato je do-

highest marks. He also graduated with distinction from the Jesuit Lyzeum. He

bro poznal finance. V arhivu dvorne komore na Dunaju je naveden kot uradnik

worked for the State for over 40 years without interruption, in postal service

poštnega knjigovodstva. Verjetno je tudi v prostem času vneto raziskoval raču-

bookkeeping offices in Zagreb, Milan and Vienna. He therefore had a good

novodstvo in nadzor na področju pisemske pošte in poštnega prometa, čeprav

knowledge of the financial aspects of the postal service. In the archives of the

ni nikoli neposredno deloval v poštni službi.

Hofkammer in Vienna, Košir is mentioned as an official of the postal service bookkeeping department. It seems likely that he spent his free time eagerly researching accounting and control procedures in the field of the letter post and postal traffic, although he never worked directly in the postal service.

Foto: A. Hodalič

{ Pošta }

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Besedilo: Tomaž Zajc

Ovitki prvega dne Š

tevilne svetovne letalske družbe že desetletja obeležujejo svoje prve lete na nove destinacije tudi z izdajami priložnostnih ovitkov prvega dne (FDC First Day Cover). Tovrstne ovitke uvrščamo v tematiko aeroﬁlije, ki v svetu zanima številne zbiralce in seveda tudi tiste, ki želijo imeti spomin na prvi let. Poleg ovitkov

prvega dne uporabljajo letalske družbe za svojo promocijo še razglednice z motivom letala, ki leti na dan prvega leta na novo destinacijo, ter v manjši meri tudi razglednice z motivom domačega letališča oziroma mesta. Letalske družbe izdajajo ovitke prvega dne še za svoje posebne lete, na primer za svoje obletnice, potovanja olimpijskih reprezentanc na prizorišča olimpijskih iger itd.

animiv je podatek, da je bil prvi tovrstni ovitek v Sloveniji izdan še za časa Kraljevine Jugoslavije 20. avgusta 1933 ob otvoritvi Ljubljanskega letališča in hkrati prvega leta na relaciji Ljubljana–Zagreb. Leto kasneje je Pošta Kraljevine Jugoslavije izdala prvo serijo petih letalskih znamk, med katerimi je na eni znamki motiv Blejskega jezera z letalom. Slovenija ima doslej eno »letalsko« znamko – Eurocontrol, izdano leta 1998 za mednarodno konvencijo o sodelovanju in varnosti zračne plovbe. Adria Airways je doslej izdala 15 ovitkov prvega dne in razglednic za svoje prve lete v Barcelono, Prago, Amsterdam, Bruselj, Tirano, Varšavo, Kijev, Stockholm, Rim, Madrid, Bukarešto, Oslo, Atene in Beograd. Ovitek prvega dne pa je bil izdan ob prevozu naše reprezentance na Zimske olimpijske igre v Lillehammer. Na ovitkih prvega dne in razglednicah je pomemben predvsem žig pošte letališča na Brniku, na katerem je viden datum prvega dne in seveda tudi žig pošte letališča, na katerega Adria Airways prvič leti. Ovitek prvega dne ima še večjo »težo«, če je na njem tudi znamka z žigom tuje države. Adria Airways že tri leta uporablja svojo znamko, ki je veljavna doma in v tujini, na njej pa je upodobljeno njeno letalo Canadair CRJ 900. Z njo so opremljeni tudi vsi ovitki prvega dne od prvega leta v Kijev dalje.

( 95 ) Prihodnje leto bo Adria Airways proslavila pomemben dogodek – 50. obletnico delovanja, za kar je med drugim predvidena izdaja spominskega ovitka in verjetno tudi nove znamke.

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First Day Covers

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any of the world's airlines have for decades been commemorating their first flights to new destinations by issuing special first day covers. Covers of this kind belong in the category of aerophilately, a subject that interests numerous collectors around the world, including, of course, those who want a souvenir of a first flight. Besides first day covers, airlines also use promotional postcards showing the aircraft used for the first flight to a new destination and, to a lesser extent, postcards showing their home airport or city. Airlines also issue first day covers to commemorate special flights such as anniversaries, national teams departing for the Olympic Games, and so on. Interestingly, the first cover of this kind in Slovenia was issued in the days of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, on 20 August 1933, to mark the opening of Ljubljana Airport and the first Ljubljana – Zagreb flight. A year later, the Post Office of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia issued its first series of five aviation stamps, including one showing Lake Bled with an aircraft flying above it. Slovenia has had one aviation-related stamp to date, the Eurocontrol stamp issued in 1998 to mark the signing of the International Convention Relating to Cooperation for the Safety of Air Navigation. Adria Airways has to date issued 15 first day covers and postcards for its first flights to Barcelona, Prague, Amsterdam, Brussels, Tirana, Warsaw, Kiev, Stockholm, Rome, Madrid, Bucharest, Oslo, Athens and Belgrade. A first day cover was also issued to mark the Adria flight that carried Slovenia's Olympic athletes to the Winter Games in Lillehammer. The most important element on the first day covers and postcards is the Brnik airport postmark, showing the date, and of course the postmark of the airport to which Adria Airways is flying for the first time. A first day cover is even more precious if it also has the stamp and postmark of a foreign country. Adria Airways has for the last three years been using its own stamp, valid both at home and abroad, depicting an Adria Canadair CRJ 900 aircraft. This stamp has also been affixed to all first day covers from the first flight to Kiev onwards. Adria Airways will celebrate an important event next year – its 50TH year of operation – for which the issuing of a commemorative cover and, probably, a new stamp are planned.

Foto: A. Hodalič

Text: Tomaž Zajc

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Antarktika

Med pingvini ( 98 )

il je lep začetek poletja, ko smo decembra izpluli iz pristanišča Lyttelton na Novi Zelandiji. Krenili smo na Antarktiko z enim največjih ruskih ledolomilcev

v ameriški organizaciji odprave, ki so jo poimenovali Great Antarctic Explorers. Naš cilj so bile zgodovinske postojanke iz časa herojske dobe raziskovalcev Antarktike (1895–1917), ko so se podajali v neusmiljeno tekmo za osvojitev južnega tečaja. Iz tistih časov je ostalo evidentiranih 34 ostankov postojank, depojev opreme in hrane, zasilnih bivališč in opazovalnih točk.

Besedilo in fotografije: Živa Flisar

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{ Antarktika }

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o obal Antarktike smo pluli pet dni. Pot nas je vodila mimo subantarktičnih otokov in čez nemirno morje zloglasnih južnih vzporednikov. Premetavanje po valovih skozi meglo Južnega oceana je davek, ki ga plača sleherna odprava na tistem koncu sveta. Po dveh dneh plovbe sem pridobila tisti značilni ladijski korak, ki mi je omogočal, da sem si natočila kavo ali spila čaj ob nihanju tal pod kotom 20°, ne da bi temu sploh še posvečala pozornost. Po približno treh dneh so izginile noči, dosegli smo južni povratnik (66° 33'') in kmalu zapluli v Rossovo morje. Okoli ladje je bilo vedno več ledenih površin. Krmar je ladjo usmerjal, kot bi vozil slalom skozi kanale brez ledu, in ko morske vode ni bilo več videti, je moral ledolomilec zaorati v led. V brazdi za seboj smo puščali 1–2 m debele prevrnjene ledene grmade, ki so v spodnjih plasteh razkrivale čudovita plodna polja rumenorjavih fitoplanktonov. Skozi razpoke v ledu so se pojavili tjulnji in pingvini, v zraku strakoši in viharniki. V Rossovem morju je gibanje ledu nepredvidljivo. Velike ledene plošče, odtrgane od Rossove ledene police in ledenikov, ki se stekajo v morje, lahko ladjo popolnoma ustavijo in onemogočijo izkrcanje. Ob prvem poskusu smo imeli srečo. Plovni kanali so nam omogočili, da smo se približali obali, posadka je ladjo zagozdila med čvrst priobalni led, spustili so stopnice in mi smo enostavno zakorakali čez zamrznjen zaliv do rta Adare pod gorovjem Admiralty vzhodne Antarktike. Do obalnih čeri smo pešačili čez led dobre pol ure in tam našli ohranjeno leseno kočo, v kateri je leta 1899 prvič na antarktični celini prezimil človek. Ob lepem sončnem vremenu nas je pričakala četrtmilijonska skupnost živahnih adelijskih pingvinov. Med njimi smo preživeli ves dan. Nekaj časa so nas pozorno opazovali, a se niso pustili dolgo motiti. Bili so preveč zaposleni s svojim podmladkom, dvorjenjem, parjenjem, valjenjem in pripravo gnezd. Najstniki so se šopirili in razkazovali, se prepirali s sosedi in organizirali skupinske pohode do morja. Navidez neurejena množica je imela urejene lokalne skupnosti, ki so nas mirno sprejele medse z vso razgaljeno intimnostjo svojega življenja. Okoli 400 km južno je ledolomilec nekaj dni kasneje v zalivu rta Washington z dosti manevriranja ponovil tehniko izkrcanja na priobalni led. Globoko v tem zalivu, na trajnem morskem ledu, ki se ne stopi niti poleti, prebiva največja znana kolonija cesarskih pingvinov. Šteje nad

Rossovega

Na obalnih čereh gnezdi okoli 2,5 milijona adelijskih valilnih parov, cesarskih je okoli 40.000.

morja

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30.000 valilnih parov in decembra, ko so mladiči že skoraj odrasli, je bila kolonija razcepljena na več skupin. Najbližja je bila od morja oddaljena približno 1 km, do najbolj oddaljene in največje skupine pa sem pešačila 6 km. Temperatura zraka je bila nad ničlo, poledenela površina snega se je zmehčala in moj korak se je pogrezal. Sonce, ki se odbija od snežne površine, je na Antarktiki zaradi ozonske luknje še posebno nevarno, saj lahko povzroči opekline in snežno slepoto. Kdor pozabi na zaščito in previdnost, ima lahko opečeno tudi notranjost nosne sluznice. V koloniji nas je pričakalo na tisoče mladičev, ki so potrpežljivo postopali sem in tja, ležali na soncu, se zbirali v manjše skupine in se občasno oglašali z nežnimi klici. Odraslih je bilo malo, približno eden na 30 mladih. Mladiči so bili radovedni in so v majhnih skupinah prihajali v našo bližino. Odrasli so nas bolj ali manj ignorirali.

V poznih popoldanskih urah smo se vrnili k ladji. Iz morja v brazdi za ladjo so v velikih skupinah skakali odrasli pingvini in se zbirali na ledu. Nekaj časa so čakali zakasnele tovariše, dokler se neki neopazen vodja ni odločil, da je čas za pohod. Oblikovali so kolone in se napotili čez ledeno prostranstvo do svojih mladičev. Na stotine majhnih črnih teles je počasi izginjalo v daljavi. Nekdo me je opozoril, naj pogledam proti odprtemu morju. Iz vode so zastrašujoče visoko štrlele hrbtne plavuti ork – kitov ubijalcev, ki so krožili ob robu ledene plošče. Potem je mojo pozornost pritegnilo nežno oglašanje mladičev. Zbrani v nekaj majhnih kolon so se premikali k obali raziskovat, kaj se tam dogaja, da staršev ni nazaj.

{ Antarktika }

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Od skupno 18 znanih vrst pingvinov le dve prebivata izključno na Antarktiki: adelijski in cesarski pingvin. V Rossovo morje drugi pingvini niti na obisk ne pridejo. Adelijski so pol manjši od svojih bolj slavnih sosedov, a zato nič manj trdoživi. Gnezdijo še bolj južno od cesarskih in prek ledu prehodijo do 100 km, da nahranijo mladiče. V primerjavi s cesarskimi so izrazito bolj živahni in radovedni, vendar dočakajo povprečno starost borih 10–12 let, medtem ko cesarski živijo tudi nad 50 let. Na obalnih čereh Rossovega morja gnezdi okoli 2,5 milijona adelijskih valilnih parov, cesarskih je okoli 40.000. Slednji ne gnezdijo, temveč sredi zime valijo v gubah svojega telesa stoje na priobalnem ledu. Obnašanje adelijskih zna biti komično in razposajeno, cesarski so vedno resni in zadržani. Njihova zibajoča se pokončna hoja spominja na težak in utrujen človeški korak, korak nekoga, ki ve, da živeti in preživeti ni lahko. V dneh, ki so sledili, smo obiskali vse ohranjene zgodovinske postojanke, spoznali smo ameriško raziskovalno postajo McMurdo, hodili po obronkih aktivnega vulkana Erebus (3794m), bili na ledeni Rossovi polici in raziskovali Drygalski ledeniški jezik, videli smo gnezdišča jate antarktičnih govnačk ter snežnih viharnikov … A brez pingvinov bi bil moj vtis o Antarktiki zagotovo drugačen.

{ Antarctica }

Among Penguins Text and photography: Živa Flisar

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t was a fine start to the summer, as we sailed in December from the harbour of Lyttelton in New Zealand. We were heading for Antarctica in one of the biggest Russian icebreakers as part of an American-organised expedition called Great Antarctic Explorers. Our goal was the historic stations from the heroic period of the Antarctic explorers (1895–1917), who set out on a merciless race to conquer the South Pole. From that time there are 34 remains of stations, equipment and food caches, emergency dwellings and observation points recorded. We reached the Antarctic coast after five days at sea. Our route took us past the sub-Antarctic islands and through the infamous southern parallels. Being tossed around on the waves of the foggy Southern Ocean is the price paid by any expedition to this part of the world. After two days at sea I got my proverbial sea legs, which allowed me to pour myself a coffee or drink tea while the deck tilted more than 20°, without paying it the slightest attention any more. After approximately three days the nights disappeared, we reached the Antarctic Circle (66° 33’’) and soon sailed into the Ross Sea. Around the ship there were increasing numbers of ice floes. The helmsman steered the ship as if he was doing a slalom through an ice-free channel, and when there was no more sea water in view, the icebreaker had to plough into the ice. The furrow in our wake comprised 1-2 m thick upturned piles of ice, which in their lower layers revealed amazingly rich fields of yellowbrown phytoplankton. Through the cracks in the ice appeared seals and penguins, and in the air petrels and shearwaters. In the Ross Sea, the movement of the ice is unpredictable. Giant ice sheets torn off the Ross Ice Shelf and glaciers flowing into the sea can bring ships to a complete halt and prevent disembarkation. At our first attempt we were in luck. The navigation channels allowed us to come close to the shore, and the crew anchored the ship in the solid coastal ice, put down the ladders and we simply walked across the frozen bay to Cape Adare below the Admiralty Mountains of eastern Antarctica. We hiked for over half an hour to the coastal cliffs and there we found a preserved wooden hut in which humans wintered over on the Antarctic continent for the first time, in 1899. In fine sunny weather, we were awaited by a colony of a quarter of a million lively Adelie penguins. We spent the entire day among them. For some time they observed us carefully, but they did not let themselves be distracted for long. They were too occupied with their young, with court-

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Ross

The coastal crags of the are the nesting grounds for around 2.5 million Adelie pairs, while there are around 40,000 Emperors.

Sea

ing, mating, incubating and preparing nests. The teenagers among them strutted and showed off, quarreled with their neighbours and organised group marches to the sea. The seemingly disorganised mass had in fact organised local communities, which calmly let us in to share the entire exposed intimacy of their lives. Around 400 km south of here, a few days later the icebreaker managed through plenty of manoeuvering to repeat the technique of disembarking on the coastal ice at Cape Washington. Deep in the bay, on the permanent sea ice, which does not even thaw in summer, resides the biggest known colony of Emperor penguins. They number more than 30,000 breeding pairs, and in December, when the youngsters are almost grown, the colony was split into several groups. The closest was around 1 km

{ Antarctica }

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from the sea, while I walked 6 km to the most distant and biggest group. The air tempreature was above zero, the icy surface of the snow had softened and my steps sank in. Owing to the hole in the ozone layer, the sun reflecting off the snowy surface is especially dangerous in Antarctica, and can cause burns and snow blindness. Anyone who forgets protection and caution can even get the inside of their nostrils burned. In the colony we were met by thousands of chicks, who patiently paced to and fro, sunbathed, gathered in small groups and occasionally gave out gentle little calls. There were few adults, around one for every 30 chicks. The chicks were curious and came close to us in small groups. The adults more or less ignored us. Late in the afternoon we returned to the ship. In the wake of the ship, large groups of adult penguins jumped out of the sea and gathered on the ice. For some time they waited for their tardy comrades, until some unnoticed leader decided it was time to move. They formed into columns and headed off across the icy expanse to their young. The hundreds of little black bodies gradually vanished in the distance. Someone told me to look out towards the open sea. Jutting out of the sea at a terrifying height were the dorsal fins of orcas – killer whales – that were circling the edge of the ice sheet. Then my attention was drawn to the soft calling of the chicks. Gathered together in a few little columns, they were moving towards the shore to see what was going on and why their parents were not back.

Of a total of 18 known species of penguin, only two live exclusively in Antarctica: Adelie and Emperor penguins. Other penguins do not even visit the Ross Sea. The Adelie penguins are half the size of their more famous neighbours, but no less resilient. They nest even further south than the Emperors, and travel up to 100 km across the ice to feed their young. Compared to the Emperors, they are much more lively and curious, but their average life span is a mere 10-12 years, while the Emperors can live to over 50. The coastal crags of the Ross Sea are the nesting grounds for around 2.5 million Adelie pairs, while there are around 40,000 Emperors. The latter do not make nests, but incubate eggs in the middle of winter in the folds of their bodies standing on the coastal ice. The behaviour of the Adelies can be comical and boisterous, while the Emperors are always serious and reserved. Their swaying upright gait reminds one of the heavy and tired human step of someone who knows that it is not easy to live and survive. In the days that followed, we toured all the preserved historic stations, got to know the American research station of McMurdo, trekked along the slopes of the active volcano of Erebus (3794m), spent time on the Ross Ice Shelf and explored the Drygal Ice Tongue, and viewed the nesting grounds of a flock of Chilean skua and snowy petrels … but without the penguins, my impression of Antarctica would certainly be different.

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{ Raja Ampat }

Adria Airways

{ Adria Airways }

Flota/Fleet Airbus A320 Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height

11.75 m

Razpon kril/Wingspan

34.10 m

Hitrost/Cruising speed

900 km/h

Višina poleta/Max. altitude

11 700 m

Dolet/Range

3 890 km

Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

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1 37.57 m

162

Canadair Regional Jet 100/200 LR Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height

7 26.77 m 6.22 m

Razpon kril/Wingspan

21.21 m

Hitrost/Cruising speed

860 km/h

Višina poleta/Max. altitude

12 496 m

Dolet/Range

3 285 km

Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

48/50

Canadair Regional Jet 900 Število/Total Dolžina/Length Višina/Height

4 32.50 m 7.57 m

Razpon kril/Wingspan

23.20 m

Hitrost/Cruising speed

882 km/h

Višina poleta/Max. altitude

12 496 m

Dolet/Range

3 600 km

Št. potnikov/Passenger capacity

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{ Adria Dobrodošli v letalu AdrieAirways Airways} Spoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimo na nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred letom, med poletom in po pristanku.

Pred letom Ekonomski in poslovni razred Na večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A320, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR in CRJ-900. Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi za poslovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzema kadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumov potovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslovnih salonov na letališčih idr. V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskih tarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.

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Web Check-in V Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsaka minuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet. Web check-in je naša novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavo na let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziroma povsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahko prijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web checkin je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.

Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EU Potnikom svetujemo, da pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev ter njihovih izdelkov je nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se s temi živili lahko prenašajo. V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljage ugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-ta zaseže. Informativni letak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani. Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletni strani www.vurs.gov.si pod poglavjem Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo.

Ročna prtljaga Zaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodna pravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage v velikosti 55 x 40 x 20 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov. Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kose pa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, da predal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njem premaknejo. Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj po izstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite.

Nakup vozovnice prek spleta Letalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirate in kupite na Adrijinih spletnih straneh www.adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnim certifikatom. Elektronske vozovnice prejme potnik po elektronski pošti. V primeru, da potrebujete letalsko vozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudi drugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacije in prodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonski številki: 386 1 369 10 10 ali 080 13 00.

Potujte z elektronsko vozovnico Na vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možno leteti z elektronsko vozovnico. Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti (itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronski naslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj ves čas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom ali osebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim ta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo.

Varnostna pravila Evropska unija (EU) je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejo količino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajo biti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov. Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogoče znova zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne sme biti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače; juhe in sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lase in tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanice tekočih in trdnih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice; ter katerekoli druge snovi s podobno vsebnostjo. Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nanašajo samo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate: • zdravila in nujno potrebna živila, (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih boste uporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujno potrebujete; • tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi, (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni na letališču EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni kupon, ali pa na letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU).

{ Adria Airways } Če ste jih kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečke pred pregledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje na kontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. (Če na letališču EU presedate na drug let, vrečke ne odpiraj-te pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališču ali na zadnjem letališču, če presedate več kot enkrat.) Če imate kakršnekoli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite na svojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.

Med letom

ve snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno.

Počutje in zdravje Vašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotoka zraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudi pozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete stevardeso. V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenje prve pomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijeten pritisk, do katerega prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska v letalu; težavo boste zlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali z nakazanim zehanjem. Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo, da se večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vaje za raztezanje celega telesa.

Napotki za varnost Z najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilo naše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našli navodila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo, vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite. Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi varnosti in udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom. Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavi oziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov. Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, takoimenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjem ovirajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali pa ogrožajo varnost in udobje sopotnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometa je kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki za tovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen.

Alkohol na letalu V letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo. Kabinsko osebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znake vinjenosti, in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo, da alkohol zaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom deluje na telo hitreje in bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.

Po pristanku

Uporaba elektronskih naprav V letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnoma izključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskim upravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi z elektromagnetnimi valovi lahko motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov. Druge elektronske naprave, kot so prenosni računalniki, CD in DVD predvajalniki ter žepni kalkulatorji, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (če ne povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas, da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem in dosledno upoštevate njihove napotke.

Zamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovana prtljaga Če bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo do nepravilnega ravnanja z vašo registrirano prtljago (velja tudi za prtljago, oddano pred letalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavite na letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/Najdeno, Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonska številka + 386 (0 ) 25 94 339.

Center za stike s potniki

Nevarni predmeti Po mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljeno imeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so: vnetljive tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahko vnetlji-

V Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobite vse informacije o naši ponudbi in novostih, pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet. Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veseli pa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, po elektronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 13 03 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386 (0)1 369 11 33.

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{ Adria Airways } Adria Airways Welcomes You Aboard Dear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow us to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flight and after landing.

Before take-off

More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the Republic of Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section Public Announcements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use.

Economy and business class

Carry-on luggage

The majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A320, Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR and CRJ-900. A business class ticket is issued according to the current business class tariff and is valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any time and includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additional charge, a larger free luggage allowance, the use of business lounges at airports, etc. Economy class is for passengers with economy class tickets, which are cheaper and carry certain restrictions.

For your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules that permit passengers to have one piece of carry-on luggage of a maximum size of 55 x 40 x 20 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg. Carry-on luggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items may be stored under the seat in front of you if possible. We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as items may have moved during the flight and may fall out. If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on luggage must be surrendered on boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.

Online ticketing

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The cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria's website at www.adria-airways.com. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Online purchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronic tickets via e-mail. If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our Call Centre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.

Travel with an electronic ticket You can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airways scheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive a passenger coupon and itinerary in an Adria Airways cover. You can also receive the document via e-mail and print it yourself. You must keep this document with you throughout the journey. At the check-in, present your passport or identity card. The check-in personnel will issue you with your boarding pass. Electronic documentation of the ticket sale means that the ticket status can be verified at any time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of data and reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is no danger of losing the boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form.

Web Check-in At Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling. Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The web check-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection. You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before your scheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selected Adria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added.

Restrictions on bringing food into the EU We advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into the EU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfish and products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animals from the diseases that they can transmit. If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin during routine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “What to bring home” is available on our website.

EU airport security rules In 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict the amount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft. You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage. These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparent re-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurised containers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures; mascara; any other item of similar consistency. You can still: • pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage; • carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including baby foods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed; • buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when located beyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraft operated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag,

{ Adria Airways } do not open it before you are screened â&#x20AC;&#x201C; otherwise the contents may be confiscated at the checkpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screening at your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once). If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.

Hazardous items Under international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, either on their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous items such as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highly inflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.

Comfort and health

During the flight

For your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located above your seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of the cabin crew if necessary. The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitude and the air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort. In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you to take frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises for the whole body while seated.

Alcohol on board Consuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board the aircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcohol to passengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight, alcohol has a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.

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After landing Safety information

Delayed, lost and damaged luggage

Our cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft, we ask you to read them carefully before every flight. During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For your own safety and comfort we also recommend that you leave it fastened during the flight. After landing, wait in your sight until the aircraft comes to a complete stop or until the seatbelt sign is switched off. The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriately on the aircraft with what is called RED CARD. The red card is intended for anyone whose behaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does not observe safety instructions or who threatens the safety and comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is violation of the law. Placing Air Traffic in Jeopardy is criminal offence in accordance with Article 330 of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1). Threatening criminal sanction is imprisonment.

If problems occur with your checked luggage during your journey (also applies to luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service as soon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)

Use of electronic devices Use of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobile phones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video games with remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagnetic waves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems. Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD players and pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do not cause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing. Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sure to follow their instructions.

Passenger Relations Centre Adria's Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and information about our services and can also offer assistance and advice. Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is always welcome. You can contact the Centre in person, in writing, by e-mail to prc@adria.si, by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if calling from Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.

Adria Airways

Ostale storitve/Other services

Prevoz tovora

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Blagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostno do vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjo računalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku. Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z veseljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovno najugodnejši poti. ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana – Prevoz tovora, telefon: 04 259 43 40, faks: 04 202 30 30, e-pošta: jp.cargo@adria.si

Cargo The Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high quality goods transport to every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with the help of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from reception to delivery. Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatch or deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.

Vzdrževanje letal Adrio Airways oziroma zaposlene v sektorju vzdrževanja letal odlikuje vrhunsko tehnično znanje, ki temelji na več kot 40-letnih izkušnjah vzdrževanja letal proizvajalcev McDonnel Douglas, Airbus in Bombardier. Vzdrževanje letal je ena izmed sekundarnih dejavnosti slovenskega letalskega prevoznika Adria Airways, ki pa s časom predstavlja vse večji delež prihodkov rednega delovanja družbe.

Aircraft maintenance

ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport, Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30, e-mail: jp.cargo@adria.si

Adria Airways maintenance staff have superlative technical know-how deriving from more than 40 years' experience in maintaining McDonnell Douglas, Airbus and Bombardier aircraft. Although aircraft maintenance is one of Adria's secondary activities, it is coming to represent an increasing share of the company's earnings.

Čarterski prevozi

Charters

Adria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in z vseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamo agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč. Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnost poletov. E-pošta: charter@adria.si

In additional to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flights from Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agencies, companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the European Union, we can also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies, companies and other carriers. Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services, high quality and punctuality. E-mail: charter@adria.si

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Si želite postati pilot letala ? Do you dream to be a pilot?

Uresničite svoje sanje in osvojite nebo! Conquer the sky and make your dreams come true!

Letalska šola Adria Airways nudi usposabljanje za sledeče programe: Flight School Adria Airways offers the following programs: PPL - Športni/zasebni pilot letala (Private Pilot Licence) PPL - Športni/zasebni pilot letala z nočnim pooblastilom (Private Pilot Licence with night qualification) CPL - Poklicni pilot letala (Commercial Pilot Licence) MEP - pooblastilo za večmotorna letala (Multi Engine Piston) IR/SE - Instrumentalno letenje/enomotorno letalo (Instrument Rating/Single Engine)

IR/ME - Instrumentalno letenje/večmotorno letalo (Instrument Rating/Multi Engine) MCC - Pooblastilo za več člansko posadko (Multi Crew Cooperation) ATPL - Prometni pilot letala (Airline Transport Pilot Licence) FI - Inštruktor letenja (Flight Instructor Raiting

www.adrialetalskasola.si letalska.sola@adria.si

Letalska šola

Flight School

Spoznajte letenje v virtualnem svetu z našimi odličnimi inštruktorji.

Learn to fly in a virtual world with our excellent instructors.

V simulatorju letenja – v 30 minutah za samo 49 EUR (ddv ni vključen v ceno) – boste spoznali osnove letenja. Za rezervacijo termina in dodatne informacije o obisku simulatorja pošljite email na naslov: dare.jarc@adria.si. Letenje je možno po plačilu vnaprej in predhodni rezervaciji termina.

In our flight simulator you can learn the basics of flying in just 30 minutes for a mere 49 euros (plus VAT). To book a session and for more information about a visit to the simulator, e-mail us at the following address: dare.jarc@adria.si. Booking essential. Payment in advance.

Avio taxi - Panoramski leti

Aviotaxi – Panoramic flights

Z letalom Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T s tremi sedeži za potnike lahko poletite do vseh večjih mest s špotnimi letališči v Sloveniji in do bližnjih letališč sosednjih držav. Za lete se lahko naročite po telefonu: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) ali 041 636 420 (tel. pilota).

Our Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T, with its three passenger seats, can fly you to all major towns with sports airfields in Slovenia and to nearby airports in neighbouring countries. To book flights, call us on: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi) or 041 636 420 (pilot)

Uradni prevoznik dogodkov

Official events carrier

Kot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vse pogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, ki organizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodke tako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencem ter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da dogodek poteka uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno, varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliancea lahko za večje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt »Conventions Plus™«, v sklopu katerega postane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.si.

As a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, which increasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideally placed to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and other international events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offering discounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. With a simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make sure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their destination on time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the Conventions Plus service for major international conferences, which effectively makes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event. For more information write to us at: events@adria.si.

Adria Airways

Klubi zvestobe/Loyalty Clubs Partnerska kartica Diners Club-Adria

Diners Club-Adria Partner Card

Potniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločite za skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabo partnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristite nagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles & More. Vsak porabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio in klubom Miles & More, prinaša imetnikom partnerske kartice pomembno dodatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Kartica pa vam odpira vrata in nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsem svetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačno prelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks. Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Passengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint Diners Club and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airways charge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other privileges in the Miles & More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. The agreement between Adria and Miles & More brings partner card holders an important additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the door to free services in more than 130 airport lounges around the world, where you can await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy a refreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes. Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

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Star Alliance Star Alliance partnerstvo

Star Alliance partnership

Adria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 49-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskem in rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra 2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemu združenju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa je napredovala v polnopravno članico združenja. Potnikom tako zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop do svetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi s partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 26 letalskih prevoznikov, ki z več kot 19.700 leti dnevno povezujejo 1077 destinacij v 175 državah. Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki člani Star Alliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa, vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviru programov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam na voljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star Alliancea Round the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam na voljo na naših prodajnih mestih.

Adria Airways has more than 49 years of experience in operating both charter and scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process of European integration and have established partnership arrangements with other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined the Star Alliance, the world's largest airline alliance, as a regional member. It is due to become a full member in January 2010. Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide Star Alliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a global network of flights on 26 airlines, which offer more than 19,700 flights daily serving 1077 destinations in 175 countries. Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliance member carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access, frequent flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced-price flights are available for numerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star Alliance Round-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adria sales outlet.

Dobrodošli v Miles & More Welcome to Miles & More Razlog več, da poletite z Adrio Airways

One more reason for flying Adria Airways

Adria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jim s tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.

Adria Airways is offering its frequent flyers the Miles & More programme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles on the entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduled routes are included in this network.

Prijava v klub

Club registration

V klub se lahko prijavite s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in v letalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria-airways.com na naših spletnih straneh.

You can join the club by filling in the registration form available at all sales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering on-line at our website, www.adria-airways.com.

Zbiranje milj

Collecting miles

Milje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Dodatne milje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, z najemom vozil, telefoniranjem, nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic. Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji bodo milje pridobili tudi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsak nakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam bo prinesel eno miljo. Milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club - Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Poleg zbiranja milj imajo člani Miles & More še dodatne ugodnosti, kot so prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage idr. Veljavnost zbranih milj je tri leta.

You can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collect additional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases at selected shops and using your credit cards. Miles & More members in Slovenia also receive miles when you use the Diners Club-Adria charge card. Every EUR charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time. In addition to collecting miles, Miles & More members enjoy additional benefits such as priority on waiting lists, excess baggage allowance and so on. Miles are valid for three years.

Koriščenje milj Zbrane milje lahko uporabite za številne nagrade: brezplačne vozovnice na progah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja, nakup različnih artiklov.

Using miles You can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: free tickets on Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel and various purchases.

Članske kartice Z včlanitvijo postanete član kluba in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženo število zahtevanih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višje nivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senator in HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženje milj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad.

Membership cards You become a club member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required number of miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silver member or Frequent Traveller, or gold member or Senator, or HON Circle Member. A higher level of membership offers you special benefits. Always have your membership card on hand, because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards.

Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance! Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member! Informacije o zbranih miljah, novostih v klubu, naročila nagradnih vozovnic in drugih nagrad v klicnem centru Miles & More dobite na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 ali na naslovu www.adria.si. Navesti morate člansko številko in PIN številko. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacije na voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.

For information on miles, Club news, to order free tickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440 or visit our website at www.adria-airways.com. You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN. We’ll be happy to take your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm, and service is also available in English and German outside these hours.

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Prodaja vozovnic in rezervacije Ticket Offices and Booking Klicni center: telefon 00386 (0)1 36 91 010 Brezplačna številka v Sloveniji: 080 13 00 w w w. a d r i a - a i r ways . c o m

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LJUBLJANA Kuzmičeva 7 1000 Ljubljana Tel.: +386 (0)1 36 91 010 E-mail: booking@adria.si

BRUSSELS Adria Airways Brussels Airport – Box 4 1930 Zaventem Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336 Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337 E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.si Adria Airways Ticket Desk Airport Zaventem / Brussels Tel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 337

Poslovalnice / Sales offices: LJUBLJANA Gosposvetska 6 1000 Ljubljana Klicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00 Tel.: +386 (0)1 23 91 910 Fax: +386 (0)1 23 21 668 E-mail: adr.gosposvetska@adria.si

COPENHAGEN Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDEN Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78 Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si

Letališče Jožeta Pučnika LJUBLJANA LJUBLJANA Jože Pučnik Airport Adria Airways Sales Office Klicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00 Tel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245 Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461 E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Copenhagen Airport Terminal 2, Floor 2, Office 230 2770 Kastrup, Denmark Tel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59 Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78 E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.si

AMSTERDAM Adria Airways, Netherlands P.O. Box 75644 1118 ZR Schiphol Triport Tel.: +31 20 625 11 22 Fax: +32 2 753 23 37 E-mail: adr.amstown@adria.si

FRANKFURT Adria Airways Frankfurt Airport Terminal 1, Building 201 Room 201. 4043/4044 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721 Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730 E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.si

Airport Ticketing Desk Amsterdam Schiphol Airport Globeground Ticketing Desk Terminal 3, opposite check-in row 20 Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600 Fax: +31 20 79 52 601 E-mail: adr.amsariport@adria.si

Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Frankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall B Sales Desk 307 P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am Main Tel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722

ATHENS Adria Airways, General Sales Agent ZEUS KOMPAS S.A., 572 Vouliagmenis Ave & Karaiskaki, 164 52 Athina Argiroupolis Tel.: + 30 21 09 94 7263, Fax: + 30 21 09 94 7288, E-mail: adr.athens@adria.si

ISTANBUL Adria Airways General Sales Agent Ordu Cad No. 206/1 34470 Laleli, Istanbul Tel.: +90 (0)212 51 24 232 Fax: +90 (0)212 51 24 234, 51 25 436 E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.si

BARCELONA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Kompas Spain C/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a 08036 Barcelona Tel.: + 34 93 246 67 77 Fax: +34 93 245 41 88 E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.si

KIEV Aviareps Chervonoarmijska st. 9/2 Office number 2 01004 Kiev, Ukraine Tel.: +38 044 287 07 47 Fax: +38 044 490 65 04 E-mail: jp.ukraine@aviareps.com

BELGRADE Adria Airways, General Sales Agent OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Airport “Nikola Tesla” 11180 Belgrade 59 Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457, 2286458, 2097457 E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me, adr.beograd@adria.si

Adria Airways Borispol International Airport Ticketing agent: Aquavita Tel.: +38 044 230 00 49, 230 00 50 Fax: +38 044 230 00 48 E-mail: adr.kievairport@adria.si

LONDON Adria Airways 49 Conduit Street London W1S 2YS Tel.: +44 (0)20 7 73 44 630, 7 43 70 143 Fax: +44 (0)20 7 28 75 476 E-mail: adr.london@adria.si Adria Airways London Gatwick Airport Ticketing agent: Skybreak North Terminal, Zone A Tel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 07 182 Fax: +44 (0)12 9 36 09 010 Reservations: Tel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 55 707 Flight Supervision: KLA Ltd. (Airline Services) Tel.: +44 (0)12 9 35 68 004 Fax: +44 (0)12 9 35 67 005 Mobil: +44 7 7810 88 00 77 MADRID Prosimo obrnite se na predstavništvo v Barceloni. Please contact our GSA in Barcelona. Tel.: + 34 91 575 0628 MOSCOW Adria Airways Derbenevskaja 4 113 114 Moscow Tel.: +7 495 727 08 85 Fax: +7 495 727 08 88 E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.si Adria Airways Sheremetyevo Airport 6th Floor, Room Nr. 42 (6.42) Tel.: +7 495 578 80 24 MUNICH Adria Airways Munich Airport, Terminal 2 Reisemarkt Süd Ebene 03, Raum 6738 (counter 355 & 356) 85356 München – Flughafen P.O. Box 241233, 85334 München Tel.: +49 (89) 97 59 11 91 Fax: +49 (89) 97 59 11 96 adr.munich@adria.si OSLO Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, Sweden Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 4778 Fax: +46 0)42 14 4778 Mobil: +46 708 28 4778 E-mail: adr.oslo@adria.si PARIS Adria Airways 94 rue Saint Lazare 75009 Paris Stopnišče A, II. nadstropje Staircase A, 2nd floor

Tel.: +33 (0)1 47 42 95 00 Fax: +33 (0)1 47 42 00 67 E-mail: adr.paris@adria.si PODGORICA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Oki Air International Ivana Vujoševića 46 81000 Podgorica Tel.: +382 (0) 20 201 201 Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 241 154 Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si Adria Airways Ticket Office Podgorica Airport OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 623 232 Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54 E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si PRISTINA Adria Airways, General Sales Agent Adria Airways Kosovo L. L. C Qamil Hoxha Nr. 12, 38000 Pristina Tel.: +381 (0)38 246 746 Tel. & Fax: +381 (0)38 246 747 Mobil: +377 44 16 50 84 E-mail: adr.pristina@adria.si Pristina Airport Ticket office Tel. & Fax 381 (0)38 54 84 37 Mobil: + 377 44 50 12 41 SARAJEVO Adria Airways Representative and Information Ferhadija 23 71000 Sarajevo Tel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26 Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92 E-mail: adria@bih.net.ba Adria Airways Airport Ticket Desk Sarajevo International Airport Tel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331 E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.si SKOPJE Adria Airways Ulica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/8 1000 Skopje Tel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975 Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531 E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Skopje Airport Tel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133 STOCKHOLM Adria Airways Representative and Information Antello AB, Tings Gatan 2 256 56 Helsingborg, Sweden Tel.: +46 (0)42 28 4778 Fax: +46 0)42 14 4778 Mobil.: +46 708 28 4778 E-mail: adr.stockholm@adria.si

TEL AVIV Adria Airways Mirus Services (1996) Ltd. General Sales Agent 8 Mendele Str. Tel Aviv 63432 Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161 Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895 Adria Airways Ticket Desk Ben Gurion Airport Laufer Aviation Ltd. Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300 Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022 TIRANA Adria Airways Albania Europian Trade Center Street bajram Curri No. 19 Town Office Tel.: +355 4 227 4666 Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666 Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614 Airport Tel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911 Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611 E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.si VIENNA Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office 1300 Vienna Airport Tel.: +43 (0)1 70 07 36 913 Fax: +43 (0)1 70 07 36 914 E-mail: adr.vienna@adria.si WARSAW Adria Airways, General Sales Agent GLOBAIR Polska Sp z o.o. Marszalkowska St. 28, office number 1U-35 Warsaw 00-576 Tel: +48 (022) 696 85 20 Fax: +48 ( 022) 696 85 24 Mobile: +48 606 12 319 E-mail: adr.warsaw@adria.si www.globairgroup.com ZAGREB Adria Airways Praška 9 10000 Zagreb Tel.: +385 (0)1 48 10 011, 48 10 016 Fax: +385 (0)1 48 10 008 E-mail: adr.zagreb@adria.si ZÜRICH Adria Airways Loewenstrasse 54/II. 8001 Zürich Tel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93 Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66 E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.si Adria Airways Airport Ticket Office Zürich Airport Terminal B-2-521 Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437