Vietnam 11 siem reap angkor temples by Adriaan Castermans

Vietnam

Siem Reap & Ankor Temples (Chapter)

Edition 11th Edition, February 2012 Pages 15pp Page Range 410-424

PDF

Coverage includes: Siem Reap & Around, Cambodia Landmine Museum, Chong

Kneas, Kompong Pluk, Temples Of Angkor, Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Ta Prohm, Phnom Bakheng, Preah Khan, Neak Poan, Roluos Group, Banteay Srei, Kbal Spean, Phnom Kulen, Beng Mealea and Koh Ker.

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Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor Why Go? Siem Reap ...................... 411 Cambodia Landmine Museum .........................417 Chong Kneas .................417 Kompong Pluk ...............417 Temples of Angkor ........ 418 Angkor Wat ................... 418 Angkor Thom ................ 418

Cambodia Fast Facts »

Area 181,035 sq km

Border Crossings with Vietnam eight »

Capital Phnom Penh

Country Code %855

Head of State King Sihamoni »

Population 15 million

Money US$1 = 4000r (riel)

Where to begin with Angkor? There is no greater concentration of architectural riches anywhere on earth. Choose from the world’s largest religious building, Angkor Wat, one of the world’s weirdest, Bayon or the riotous jungle of Ta Prohm. All are global icons and have helped put Cambodia on the map as the temple capital of Asia. Today, the monuments are a point of pilgrimage for all Khmers, and no traveller to the region will want to miss their extravagant beauty. Many visitors to Vietnam continue their trip into Cambodia to visit these fabled temples. Despite the headlining act that is Angkor and the contemporary chic of Siem Reap, Cambodia’s greatest treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell and back, but they have prevailed with a smile and no visitor comes away from this enigmatic kingdom without a measure of admiration and aﬀection for its inhabitants.

When to Go Siem Reap °C/°F Temp

Rainfall inches/mm

40/104

32/800

National Holiday Chaul Chnam or Khmer New Year, mid-April

Phrases sua s’dei (hello), lia suhn hao-y (goodbye), aw kohn (thank you) »

30/86

24/600

20/68

16/400

10/50

8/200 0

0/32 J

Dec–Jan Humidity is low, there’s little rain and cool breezes. Peak season for visitors.

Feb–Jun Temperatures rise and in May or June the monsoon brings rain and humidity.

Jun–Oct The wet season: Angkor is surrounded by lush foliage and the moats are full of water.

411

SIEM REAP

Les Chantiers Écoles CULTURAL CENTRE (Puok Village; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 7am-noon Sat)

% 063 / POP 119,500

Tucked down a side road, this silk farm teaches traditional Khmer artisanship, including lacquer making and wood- and stone-carving, to impoverished youngsters; tours of the workshops are possible when school is in session. On the premises is an exquisite shop, Artisans d’Angkor. To see the entire silk-making process, from mulberry trees to silk worms and spinning to weaving, visit Les Chantiers Écoles’ silk farm (h7.30am-5.30pm), 16km west of town. Shuttle buses leave the school at 9.30am and 1.30pm daily for a three-hour tour.

Life-support system for the temples of Angkor, Siem Reap (see-em ree-ep) is the epicentre of the new Cambodia, a pulsating place that’s one of the most popular destinations on the planet right now. At heart though, Siem Reap – whose name rather undiplomatically means ‘Siamese Defeated’ – is still a little charmer, with old French shophouses, shady tree-lined boulevards and a slow-flow river.

1 Sights

Angkor National Museum MUSEUM (www.angkornationalmuseum.com; 968 Charles de Gaulle Blvd; adult US$12, child under 1.2m US$6, audio guide US$3; h8.30am-6pm) A worthwhile

Cambodian Cultural Village CULTURAL CENTRE (Map p419; www.cambodianculturalvillage.com; NH6; foreigner/Khmer US$11/4, child under 12 US$2; h8am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8.30pm Fri-Sun)

introduction to the glories of the Khmer empire, this state-of-the-art museum helps define Angkor’s historic, religious and cultural significance. Displays include 1400 exquisite stone carvings and artefacts.

This place aims to represent all of Cambodia in a whirlwind tour of recreated houses and villages. It may be kitsch, but it’s very popular with Cambodians, and the dance and music performances will delight the kiddies.

Eastern Baray 3 Ta Prohm #

CHAU SREI VIBOL

1 Angkor Wat #

NH6 · /

Ai rp or

tR d

SIEM REAP ROLOUS BAKONG

0 e # 0

10 km 5 miles

Angkor Highlights 1 See the sun rise over one of the world’s most iconic buildings, the one and only Angkor Wat (p418) 2 Contemplate the

serenity and splendour of the Bayon (p419), its 216

enigmatic faces staring out into the jungle

3 Witness nature running

riot at the mysterious ruin of Ta Prohm (p423), the Tomb Raider temple

4 Stare in wonder at the delicate carvings adorning Banteay Srei (p424), the finest seen at Angkor

5 Trek deep into the jungle to discover the River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean (p424)

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR S I EGM H TRSE A P

ANGKOR THOM 2 Bayon # Western Baray

4 Banteay Srei To # (15km); 5 Kbal Spean (35km); #

‚

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Siem Reap B

400 m 0.2 miles

‚

To Angkor National æ # Museum HanumanAlaya (1km)

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Gaulle B lvd

Cambodian Cultural Village (2.5km); Airport (7.5km)

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Royal Gardens

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SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR S I E M R E A P

St (Tep V ong St)

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413

Siem Reap æ Top Sights Angkor National Museum......................D1 Les Chantiers Écoles............................. A5

16 Le Tigre de Papier ................................. C6

ÿ Sleeping 1 Encore Angkor Guesthouse.................. A5 2 FCC Angkor............................................ C3 3 Frangipani Villa Hotel ............................ D4 4 Golden Banana ...................................... B6 5 Golden Temple Villa .............................. A5 6 Hotel de la Paix ...................................... B3 7 La Résidence d'Angkor ......................... C4 8 Sala Bai................................................... A3 9 Seven Candles Guesthouse.................. D3 10 Shadow of Angkor Guesthouse............ D7

û Drinking 19 Laundry Bar ............................................D7 20 Linga Bar................................................ C6 21 Miss Wong ............................................. C6 22 Nest ........................................................ B3 Warehouse.....................................(see 31)

ú Eating 11 Angkor Market ....................................... B2 12 Blue Pumpkin......................................... C6 13 Cambodian BBQ.................................... C6 Chamkar........................................ (see 13) 14 Le Café ................................................... C4 15 Le Malraux.............................................. B6

Siem Reap oﬀers everything from US$3 shacks with shared toilets to five-star luxury palaces. For more recommended guesthouses and hotels in Siem Reap, visit www.hotels .lonelyplanet.com.

oLa Résidence

BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ d’Angkor (%963390; www.residencedangkor.com; Siem Reap River Rd; r from US$225; aiWs) The

ý Entertainment 23 Apsara Theatre...................................... D5 24 Temple Club .......................................... C6 þ Shopping 25 Angkor Night Market ............................ A4 26 Artisans d'Angkor ..................................A5 27 Keo Kjay ..................................................B7 28 Psar Chaa................................................C7 29 Rajana .................................................... B4 30 Samatoa................................................. C6 31 Senteurs d'Angkor .................................D7

Ly Foundation, which seeks to promote education in rural communities. Frangipani Villa Hotel BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%963030; www.frangipanihotel.com; Wat Bo Rd; r US$30-60; aiWs) One of the better-value

budget boutique hotels in Siem Reap. The contemporary rooms have clean lines and bright spaces, plus there’s a courtyard pool. Hotel de la Paix HOTEL $$$ (%966000; www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com; Sivatha St; r from US$205; aiWs) This place is all

wood-appointed rooms, among the most tasteful and inviting in town, come with verandahs and huge jacuzzi-sized tubs. The new wing includes superb suites and the striking Kong Kea Spa.

about funky contemporary design, trendy interiors and minimalist style. Rooms include open-plan bathrooms and iPods.

oMy Home Tropical

HanumanAlaya BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ (%760582; www.hanumanalaya.com; oﬀ Charles De Gaulle Blvd; r US$60-100; aiWs) Billing itself

GUESTHOUSE $ Garden Villa (%760035; www.myhomecambodia.com; Psar Khrom; r US$12-26; aiWs) With hotel stand-

ards at guesthouse prices, this is a fine place to rest your head. The decor includes subtle silks and the furnishings are tasteful. Seven Candles Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%963380; www.sevencandlesguesthouse.com; 307 Wat Bo Rd; r US$10-20; aiW) An original

guesthouse with rooms that include hot water, TV and fridge. Profits help the Ponheary

as ‘Angkor’s boutique residence’, this traditional Khmer-style resort is a home away from home thanks to its friendly staﬀ. Shadow of Angkor Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ (%964774; www.shadowofangkor.com; 353 Pokambor Ave; r US$15-25; aiW) In a grand old

French-era building overlooking the river, this friendly 15-room place oﬀers aﬀordable air-con and free internet.

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR S ILEEME PRI ENAGP

4 Sleeping

17 Local Food Stalls ................................... B6 18 Sugar Palm .............................................A3

414 Golden Banana BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ (%012-885366; www.goldenbanana.info; Wat Damnak area; r US$48-98; aiWs) A mellow place

with two incarnations: a 10-room boutique hotel and a 16-room boutique resort, both gay-friendly and very popular. Encore Angkor Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $$ (%969400; www.encoreangkor.com; 456 Sok San St; r US$20-50; aiWs) The stylish lobby

sets the tone for a budget boutique experience. Rooms include all the usual touches, plus oversized beds and in-room safes. Golden Temple Villa HOTEL $ (%012-943459; www.goldentemplevilla.com; oﬀ Sivatha St; r US$13-23; aiW) Readers love this

place thanks to its funky colourful decor and fun outlook. It’s surrounded by a lush garden, and there’s also a small bar-restaurant.

VIETNAM–CAMBODIA RELATIONS

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR S I E M R E A P

Entering Cambodia from Vietnam is a leap from a powerhouse economy into one of Southeast Asia’s poorest nations. Though chaotic, Saigon and Hanoi feel downright urban and orderly compared to less-developed Siem Reap. As any proud Cambodian might tell you, Vietnam wasn’t always economically superior. Cambodia’s Khmer empire once controlled much of mainland Southeast Asia, including the ports of Saigon. By the 1800s however, Vietnam’s political dominance was established and Cambodia came under its power. The French later occupied both countries but favoured Vietnamese workers and bureaucrats. Though the colonialists were driven out in 1954, the 20th century’s latter half brought more war – this time proxy conflicts fed by China, the US and the Soviet Union. During the American War – in a period when Cambodia was backed by the US – American planes heavily bombed its countryside to wipe out communist guerrillas. This didn’t work. A sect of hardline China-backed communists, the Khmer Rogue, overran the weak US-allied government in 1975 to found a Communist regime that went on to become one of the most notorious dictatorships of the 20th century. By 1975 both Vietnam and Cambodia had birthed communist independence movements. But despite their ideological kinship, the ancient feud didn’t die, and in the late 1970s Cambodia’s Khmer Rouge under Pol Pot attempted to retake land lost to Vietnam centuries before, beginning with Phu Quoc Island and later mounting a series of shortlived invasions in Vietnam’s Dong Thap Province. The Vietnamese responded by invading and occupying Cambodia for 10 years and installing supplicant Cambodian leaders. Many of the same individuals remain in power there today. Leaders in both countries now speak of brotherhood between the nations, but you may hear regular Cambodians on the street speaking of Vietnam as the bully next door, and Vietnamese colloquially speaking of Cambodia as a ‘little brother’. Despite this sibling rivalry, Cambodia and Vietnam share plenty of cultural common ground. Gesturing with feet, for example, is taboo. Elders are revered. Both cultures prefer to tiptoe around social confrontation and angry outbursts are regarded as a lapse into insanity. Differences in the home, however, are more pronounced. Swayed by Confucianism, many Vietnamese worship long-dead ancestors. Cambodians usually honour only their immediate family. Vietnam’s ‘two-child’ laws have also kept families smaller than those in Cambodia, where more children mean more hands to support the family. In contrast to the go-getter vibe in Saigon and Hanoi, Siem Reap still oozes laid-back warmth, but Cambodia is slowly becoming more like its rival. Visitors expecting a crumbling backwater will be taken aback by Siem Reap’s deluxe new resorts and chic lounges. Though you’ll still hear roosters crowing, you might also find a KFC up the block. On the street, the ever-growing tourism wave is exposing all walks of Cambodian life to outsiders. Though Cambodians openly grumble about Vietnam, the kingdom is following in its footsteps: shaking off a tragic past, welcoming global trade and sprouting office towers from a sea of tin-roof shacks. Vietnam may think of Cambodia as a ‘little brother’, but it must concede its sibling is growing by the day. By Patrick Winn – Southeast Asia Correspondent, Global Post

415

5 Eating Worthy restaurants are sprinkled all around town but Siem Reap’s culinary heart is the Psar Chaa area, whose focal point, the Alley, is literally lined with mellow eateries oﬀering great atmosphere. Cheap eats can be found at the nearby local food stalls (Pub St; mains 4000-8000r; h4pm-3am), around Pub St’s western end. For self-caterers, markets have fruit and vegies. Angkor Market (Sivatha St; h7.30am10pm) can supply international treats such as olives and cheeses.

oBlue Pumpkin

INTERNATIONAL $

(Pithnou St; mains US$2-6; h6am-10pm; aW)

Downstairs it looks like any old cafe, albeit with a delightful selection of cakes, breads and homemade ice cream. Upstairs is another world of white minimalism, with beds to lounge on and free wi-fi. Le Tigre de Papier INTERNATIONAL $ (Pub St; Khmer mains US$3-6.50; h24hr; W) This

established spot has a wood-fired oven and a great menu of Italian, French and Khmer food. There’s also aﬀordable cooking classes.

is an excellent place to sample traditional flavours infused with herbs and spices. Sala Bai INTERNATIONAL $$ (%963329; www.salabai.com; Taphul St; set lunches US$8; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri) This school trains

good spot for gastronomes, this classy art deco cafe-restaurant oﬀers fine French food and some local Cambodian specialities. Kanell INTERNATIONAL $$ (www.kanellrestaurant.com; 7 Makara St; mains US$5-15; h11am-midnight; Ws) Set in a hand-

some Khmer villa on the edge of town, Kanell oﬀers extensive gardens and a swimming pool for those seeking to dine and unwind.

Drinking

Siem Reap is now firmly on Southeast Asia’s nightlife map, with many of the most interesting places situated in the vicinity of Psar Chaa, on or near Pub St or the Alley. Warehouse BAR (Pithnou St; h10.30am-3am; W) At this popu-

lar bar opposite Psar Chaa, enjoy indie anthems, table football, a pool table and devilish drinks. Laundry Bar LOUNGE BAR (oﬀ Pithnou St, Psar Chaa area; h1pm-3am) One of

the most alluring bars in town thanks to discerning decor, low lighting and a laid-back soundtrack. Happy hour is 5.30pm to 9pm. Linga Bar LOUNGE BAR (www.lingabar.com; The Alley; h10am-about 1am; W) This chic gay bar, colourful, cool and con-

temporary, has a relaxed atmosphere and a cracking cocktail list. Miss Wong LOUNGE BAR (The Lane; h6pm-late) Miss Wong carries you

young Khmers in the art of hospitality and serves an aﬀordable menu of Western and Cambodian cuisine.

back to the chic of 1920s Shanghai and is famous for its sophisticated cocktails.

Le Café INTERNATIONAL $ (Wat Bo area; mains US$3.75-5; h7.30am-8pm; W)

Nest BAR (Sivatha St; h4pm-late; W) A memorable bar

Brings five-star, Sofitel-inspired sandwiches, salads and shakes to the French Cultural Centre.

thanks to its sweeping sail-like shelters and stylish seating. This place has one of the hippest cocktail lists in town.

Cambodian BBQ CAMBODIAN $$ (The Alley; mains US$5.50-8.75; h11am-11pm; W)

3 Entertainment

Crocodile, snake, ostrich and kangaroo meat add an exotic twist to the traditional phnom pleung (‘hill of fire’) grills. Chamcar VEGETARIAN $ (The Alley; mains US$3-5; h11am-11pm, closed Sun lunch; W) The name translates as ‘farm’ and

the supplies must be coming from a pretty impressive organic vegetable supplier, given the creative Asian dishes on the menu here.

Classical dance shows take place all over town, but only a few are worth considering. Apsara Theatre CLASSICAL DANCE (www.angkorvillage.com; oﬀ Wat Bo Rd; show incl dinner US$22) Nightly performances in a wat-style

wooden pavilion opposite Angkor Village. La Résidence d’Angkor CLASSICAL DANCE (Siem Reap River Rd; admission free, mains US$1225; h8pm Tue, Thu & Sat) Try the Dining Room

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR S E MI NRGE A P E IAT

Sugar Palm CAMBODIAN $$ (Taphul St; mains US$5-8; h11.30am-3pm & 5.3010pm) Set in a beautiful wooden house, this

Le Malraux FRENCH $$ (155 Sivatha St; mains US$5-15; h7am-1am; W) A

4 16

at La Résidence for fine food and authentic dance performances, with shadow puppetry on alternate nights. Temple Club CLASSICAL DANCE (Pub St; dance show incl buﬀet US$5) A very

popular bar-restaurant that oﬀers the best value classical dance show in town. Performances upstairs.

Shopping

Siem Reap has an excellent selection of Cambodian-made handicrafts. Psar Chaa is well stocked with anything you may want to buy in Cambodia, and lots you don’t. There are bargains to be had if you haggle patiently and humorously. Angkor Night Market (www.angkornightmarket.com; near Sivatha St; h4pm-midnight) is packed with silks, handi-

crafts and souvenirs. Up-and-coming Alley West is also a great strip to browse. A number of shops support Cambodia’s disabled and disenfranchised. Artisans d’Angkor HANDICRAFTS (www.artisansdangkor.com; oﬀ Sivatha St; h7.30am-7.30pm) One of the best places

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR A R O U N D S I E M R E A P

in Cambodia for quality souvenirs and gifts – everything from silk clothing and accessories to elegant reproductions of Angkorianera statuary. Keo Kjay (www.keokjay.org;

CLOTHING

Alley

West;

h11am-10pm)

Translating as ‘fresh’ in Khmer, this hip little boutique is a fair-trade fashion enterprise that aims to provide HIV-positive women with a sustainable income. Rajana HANDICRAFTS (www.rajanacrafts.org; Sivatha St; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-10pm Sun) Sells fair-trade silk, sil-

ver jewellery and handmade cards. Samatoa CLOTHING (Pithnou St; h8am-11pm) Fair-trade fashion:

select designer clothes finished in silk, with the option of a tailored fit in 48 hours.

Senteurs d’Angkor BEAUTY (www.senteursdangkor.com; Pithnou St; h7am10pm) Cambodia’s answer to the Body Shop,

this place oﬀers natural beauty products, massage oils, spices, coﬀees and teas.

8 Information Pick up the free Siem Reap Angkor Visitors Guide (www.canbypublications.com) or the two handy booklets produced by Pocket Guide Cambodia (www.cambodiapocketguide.com), or look them up online. There are ATMs at the airport and in banks and minimarts all over central Siem Reap, especially along Sivatha Blvd. The greatest concentration of internet shops is along Sivatha Blvd and around Psar Chaa. Royal Angkor International Hospital (%761888; www.royalangkorhospital.com; NH6) A modern, international-standard facility affiliated with the Bangkok Hospital. Tourist police (% 097-778 0013) At the main Angkor ticket checkpoint.

8 Getting There & Away There are two main options for travelling between Vietnam and Cambodia. Air travel is more convenient and there are daily flight connections between both Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC)and Hanoi and Siem Reap. Road travel is a more daunting prospect as it takes an entire day to travel direct between HCMC and Siem Reap, including a change of bus in Phnom Penh. However, it is easy enough to break the journey in the lively Cambodian capital for a night or two. Air Siem Reap International Airport (www. cambodia-airports.com) is verging on the boutique and is a very stylish facility in which to arrive. It is 7km west of the centre. Vietnam Airlines offers regular daily connections between Siem Reap and HCMC (one-way from US$135, five daily) or Hanoi (from US$195, four daily). Silk Air also offers two flights a week connecting Siem Reap and Danang (from US$243). For details of Vietnam Airlines offices in Vietnamese cities, see the relevant sections in this book.

VISAS FOR CAMBODIA For most nationalities, one-month tourist visas (US$20) are available on arrival at Siem Reap and Phnom Penh airports and all land border crossings. One passport-sized photo is required. One-month tourist e-visas (US$20 plus a US$5 processing fee), which take three business days to issue and are valid for entry to Cambodia at the airports and the Bavet–Moc Bai border crossing with Vietnam, are available at www.mfaic.gov.kh. Anyone planning a side trip to the temples of Angkor and then returning to Vietnam will need a multiple-entry Vietnam visa or will need to arrange another visa while in Cambodia. Re-entry visas are no longer available in Vietnam.

4 17 Airlines servicing Siem Reap for onward travel from Cambodia include the following: Air Asia (www.airasia.com) To Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur. Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) To Bangkok. Cambodia Angkor Air (www.cambodiaangkor air.com) To Saigon; code shares with Vietnam Airlines. Dragonair (www.dragonair.com) To Hong Kong. Jetstar Asia (www.jetstarasia.com) To Singapore. Lao Airlines (www.laos-airlines.com) To Luang Prabang and Pakse. Silk Air (www.silkair.com) To Singapore and Danang. Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com) To Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Luang Prabang.

From the airport, an oﬃcial moto/taxi/van costs US$2/7/8; remork-motos (tuk-tuk; US$4 or US$5) are available outside the terminal. From the bus station, a moto/remork to the city centre should cost about US$1/2. Short moto trips around the centre of town cost 2000r or 3000r (US$1 at night). A remork should be about double that, more with lots of people. For information on getting to and from the temples, see Exploring the Temples on p 422.

AROUND SIEM REAP Cambodia Landmine Museum The nonprofit Cambodia Landmine museum (www.cambodialandminemuseum.org; Banteay Srei District; admission US$1; h7am-6pm) is pop-

ular with travellers thanks to its informative displays on Cambodia’s enemy within. It has a mock minefield where visitors can search for deactivated mines. Situated about 25km from Siem Reap and 6km south of Banteay Srei temple.

Chong Kneas The floating village commune of Chong Kneas is now so popular with visitors that it’s become something of a floating scam, at least insofar as hiring a boat (US$13 or more per person for 1½ hours) is concerned. The small, floating Gecko Environment Centre (www.tsbr-ed.org; admission free; h7am-4pm) has displays on the Tonlé Sap’s remarkable annual cycle. By moto, the 11km trip to Chong Kneas costs US$3.

Kompong Pluk For a floating village more memorable than Chong Kneas, but also harder to reach, head for the friendly village of Kompong Pluk, an other-worldly place built on soaring stilts. In the wet season you can explore the nearby flooded forest by canoe. To get here, either catch a boat (about US$55 return) at Chong Kneas or come via the small town of Roluos by a two-hour combination of road (about US$7 return by moto) and boat (US$20 for eight people).

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR A 8ROUND SIEM REAP

Bus Most travellers use international buses between HCMC and Phnom Penh, crossing at the Moc Bai (Vietnam)–Bavet (Cambodia) border. Buses take about six hours or so, including border crossing formalities. Tickets usually cost US$10 to US$12. There are regular services throughout the day between 6am and about 2pm in both directions. Buses leave from the Pham Ngu Lao area of Ho Chi Minh City. In Phnom Penh, they arrive and depart from various bus offices around the city, including the following popular operators: Capitol Tour (%217627; 14 St 182) Mai Linh (%211888; 391 Sihanouk Blvd) Mekong Express (% 427518; 87 Sisowath Quay) Sapaco (%210300; 307 Sihanouk Blvd) In theory it is possible to connect the same day with a change of bus in Phnom Penh, but this is easier travelling from Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reap as opposed to the other direction, as Phnom Penh to Siem Reap services operate later in the afternoon. Tickets between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh (six hours) cost US$5 to US$11, depending on the level of service (air-con, leg room, a toilet, a host). There is also a night bus between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap operated by Virak Buntham (% 016-786270; St 106). This service starts in Sihanoukville and usually passes through Phnom Penh around 11.30pm. In Siem Reap, all buses depart from the bus station, which is 3km east of town and about 200m south of NH6. Tickets are available at guesthouses, hotels, bus offices, travel agencies and ticket kiosks. Some bus companies send a minibus around to pick up passengers at their place of lodging. Upon your arrival in Siem Reap, be prepared for a rugby scrum of eager moto (motorbike taxi) drivers when you get off the bus.

8 Getting Around

418

THE HEARTBEAT OF CAMBODIA The largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia, the Tonlé Sap is an incredible natural phenomenon that provides fish and irrigation water for half of Cambodia’s population. The lake is linked to the Mekong at Phnom Penh by a 100km-long channel, the Tonlé Sap River. From mid-May to early October (the wet season), rains raise the level of the Mekong, backing up the Tonlé Sap River and causing it to flow northwest into the Tonlé Sap Lake. During this period, the lake swells from 2500 sq km to 13,000 sq km or more, its maximum depth increasing from about 2.2m to more than 10m. Around the start of October, as the water level of the Mekong begins to fall, the Tonlé Sap River reverses its flow, draining the waters of the lake back into the Mekong. This extraordinary process makes the Tonlé Sap one of the world’s richest sources of freshwater fish and an ideal habitat for water birds.

TEMPLES OF ANGKOR

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR A N G KO R WAT

Angkor is, quite literally, heaven on earth. It is the earthly representation of Mt Meru, the Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. Angkor is the perfect fusion of creative ambition and spiritual devotion. The Cambodian ‘god-kings’ of old each strove to better their ancestors in size, scale and symmetry, culminating in the world’s largest religious building, Angkor Wat. The hundreds of temples surviving today are but the sacred skeleton of the vast political, religious and social centre of the ancient Khmer empire. Angkor was a city that, at its zenith, boasted a population of one million when London was an insignificant town of 50,000. The houses, public buildings and palaces of Angkor were constructed of wood – now long decayed – because the right to dwell in structures of brick or stone was reserved for the gods. Angkor is one of the most impressive ancient sites on earth, the eighth wonder of the world, with the epic proportions of the Great Wall of China, the detail and intricacy of the Taj Mahal, and the symbolism and symmetry of the pyramids, all rolled into one.

Angkor Wat The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of Khmer genius, is simply staggering and is matched by only a few select spots on earth such as Machu Picchu or Petra. Soaring skyward and surrounded by a moat that would make its European castle counterparts blush, Angkor Wat is one of the most inspired and spectacular monuments ever conceived by the human mind. It is a

sumptuous blend of form and function, a spellbinding shrine to Vishnu, its captivating image replicated in the reflective pools below, a feast for unbelieving eyes. Like the other temple-mountains of Angkor, Angkor Wat replicates the spatial universe in miniature. The central tower is Mt Meru, with its surrounding smaller peaks, bounded in turn by continents (the lower courtyards) and the oceans (the moat). The seven-headed naga (mythical serpent) serves as a symbolic rainbow bridge for humans to reach the abode of the gods. Angkor Wat is surrounded by a moat, 190m wide, which forms a giant rectangle measuring 1.5km by 1.3km. Stretching around the outside of the central temple complex is an 800m-long series of astonishing bas-reliefs, designed to be viewed in an anticlockwise direction. Rising 31m above the third level (and 55m above the ground) is the central tower, which gives the whole ensemble its sublime unity. Angkor Wat was built by Suryavarman II (r 1112–52), who unified Cambodia and extended Khmer influence across much of mainland Southeast Asia. He also set himself apart religiously from earlier kings by his devotion to the Hindu deity Vishnu, to whom he consecrated the temple – built, coincidentally, around the same time as European Gothic cathedrals such as Notre-Dame and Chartres. The upper level of Angkor Wat is once again open to modern pilgrims, but visits are strictly timed to 20 minutes.

Angkor Thom It is hard to imagine any building bigger or more beautiful than Angkor Wat, but at

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Angkor Thom the sum of the parts add up to a greater whole. It is the gates that grab you first, flanked by a monumental representation of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, 54 demons and 54 gods engaged in an epic tug of war on the causeway. Each of the gates – North, South, East, West and Victory – towers above the visitor, the magnanimous faces of the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara staring out over the kingdom. Can you imagine being a peasant in the 13th century approaching the forbidding capital for the first time? It would have been an aweinspiring yet unsettling experience to enter such a gateway and come face to face with the divine power of the god kings.

The last great capital of the Khmer empire, Angkor Thom took monumental to a whole new level, set over 10 sq km. Built in part as a reaction to the surprise sacking of Angkor by the Chams, Jayavarman VII (r 1181–1219) decided that his empire would never again be vulnerable at home. Beyond the formidable walls is a massive moat that would have stopped all but the hardiest invaders in their tracks.

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THREE-DAY EXPLORATION The temple complex at Angkor is simply enormous and the superlatives don’t do it justice. This is the site of the world’s largest religious building, a multitude of temples and a vast, long-abandoned walled city that was arguably Southeast Asia’s Àrst metropolis, long before Bangkok and Singapore got in on the action. Starting at the Roluos group of temples, one of the earliest capitals of Angkor, move on to the big circuit, which includes the Buddhist-Hindu fusion Preah Khan and the temple of ornate water temple of Neak Poan. On the second day downsize to the small circuit, starting with an Ta Prohm, atmospheric dawn visit to before continuing to the temple pyramid of Ta Keo, the Buddhist monastery of Banteay Kdei and the immense royal Sra Srang. bathing pond of Next venture further aÀeld to Banteay Srei temple, the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art, and Beng Mealea, a remote jungle temple. Saving the biggest and best until Angkor last, experience sunrise at Wat and stick around for breakfast in the temple to discover its amazing architecture without the crowds. In the Angkor Thom, afternoon, explore an immense complex that is home to the Bayon. enigmatic Three days around Angkor? That’s just for starters.

Bayon

The surreal state temple of legendary king Jayavarman VII, where 216 faces bear down on pilgrims, asserting religious and regal authority.

Terrace of the Leper King Preah Palilay Phimeanakas Temple

West Gate Angkor Thom

Tep Pranam Terrace of the Elephants

Baphuon Temple

South Gate Angkor Thom

Phnom Bakheng

Baksei Chamrong

Beng Mealea

Angkor Wat

The world’s largest religious building. Experience sunrise at the holiest of holies, then explore the beautiful bas-reliefs – devotion etched in stone. JOHN BANAGAN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

TOP TIPS » Dodging the Crowds Early morning at Ta Prohm, post sunrise at Angkor Wat and lunchtime at Banteay Srei does the trick. » Extended Explorations Three-day passes can now be used on nonconsecutive days over the period of a week but be sure to request this.

Temples of Angkor

The last great capital of the Khmer empire conceals a wealth of temples and its epic proportions would have inspired and terriÀed in equal measure.

Angkor Thom

Preah Khan

A fusion temple dedicated to Buddha, Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu; the immense corridors are like an unending hall of mirrors.

Neak Poan

If Vegas ever adopts the Angkor theme, this will be the swimming pool, a petite tower set in a lake, surrounded by four smaller ponds.

North Gate, Angkor Thom

Preah Pithu Thommanon Temple Prasat Suor Prat Victory Gate Angkor Thom

East Gate Angkor Thom

Chau Say Tevoda

Ta Nei Temple Ta Keo Temple Banteay Srei

Banteay Kdei Temple

Roluos

Ta Prohm

Sra Srang

Nicknamed the Tomb Raider temple, Indiana Jones would be equally apt. Nature has run riot, leaving iconic tree roots strangling the surviving stones.

Prasat Kravan

Bat Chum Temple

Once the royal bathing pond, this is the ablutions pool to beat all ablutions pools and makes a good stop for sunset. ARIADNE VAN ZANDBERGEN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

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EXPLORING THE TEMPLES One Day Hit Angkor Wat for sunrise, after which you can explore the mighty temple while it’s still quiet. From there continue to Ta Prohm before breaking for lunch. In the afternoon, explore the temples within the walled city of Angkor Thom and the beauty of the Bayon in the late afternoon light.

Three Days After the first action-packed day, beat the tourists to beautiful Banteay Srei, with a quick stop at Preah Khan along the way. Then make your way to the River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean. On the third day, head out to the Roluos area and then back to Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom for another look.

One Week In addition to what you can see in three days, take in Beng Mealea and even Koh Ker. For a change of pace, take a boat to the watery village of Kompong Pluk (p417).

Tickets & Guides The ticket booth (1-day/3-day/1-week tourist pass US$20/40/60, children under 12 free; h5am-5.30pm) is on the road from Siem Reap to Angkor. Tickets issued after 5pm (for sunset viewing) are valid the next day. Tickets are not valid for Phnom Kulen or Beng Mealea. Get caught ticketless in a temple and you’ll be fined US$100. Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Association (www.khmerangkortourguide.com; h7-11am & 2-5pm) can arrange certified tour guides in 10 languages (US$25 to US$50 a day).

Eating SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR A R O U N D A N G KO R T H O M

All the major temples have some sort of nourishment near the entrance. The most extensive selection of restaurants is opposite the entrance to Angkor Wat. There are dozens of local noodle stalls just north of the Bayon.

Transport Bicycles are a great way to get to and around the temples, which are linked by flat roads in good shape. Various guesthouses and hotels rent out White Bicycles (www.thewhite bicycles.org; per day US$2) and proceeds go to local development projects. Motos, zippy and inexpensive, are the most popular form of transport around the temples (US$8 to US$10 per day, more for distant sites). Drivers accost visitors from the moment they set foot in Siem Reap, but they often end up being knowledgeable and friendly. Remorks (US$12 to US$15 a day, more for distant sites) take a little longer than motos but oﬀer protection from the rain and sun. Even more protection is oﬀered by cars (about US$30 a day, more for distant sites), though these tend to isolate you from the sights, sounds and smells. Hiring a car should cost about US$30 for a whole day of cruising around Angkor, US$45 to Kbal Spean and Banteay Srei, and about US$70 to Beng Mealea.

ego of Cambodia’s legendary king. Its 54 gothic towers are famously decorated with 216 enormous, coldly smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara that bear more than a passing resemblance to the great king himself. These huge visages glare down from every angle, exuding power and control with a hint of humanity – precisely the blend required to hold sway over such a vast empire, ensuring that disparate and far-flung populations yielded to the monarch’s magnanimous will.

The Bayon is decorated with 1.2km of extraordinary bas-reliefs incorporating more than 11,000 figures. The famous carvings on the outer wall of the first level vividly depict everyday life in 12th-century Cambodia. Baphuon

TEMPLE

About 200m northwest of Bayon, the Baphuon is a pyramidal representation of mythical Mt Meru that marked the centre of the city that existed before the construction of Angkor

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Thom. Restoration eﬀorts were disrupted by the Cambodian civil war and all records were destroyed during the Khmer Rouge years, leaving French experts with the world’s largest jigsaw puzzle. On the western side, the retaining wall of the second level was fashioned – apparently in the 15th or 16th century – into a reclining Buddha 60m in length. Terrace of Elephants

HISTORIC BUILDING

The 350m-long Terrace of Elephants – decorated with parading elephants towards both ends – was used as a giant viewing stand for public ceremonies and served as a base for the king’s grand audience hall. As you stand here, try to imagine the pomp and grandeur of the Khmer empire at its height, with infantry, cavalry, horse-drawn chariots and, of course, elephants parading across the Central Square in a colourful procession, pennants and standards aloft. Terrace of the Leper King

HISTORIC BUILDING

Around Angkor Thom TA PROHM

The ultimate Indiana Jones fantasy, Ta Prohm is cloaked in dappled shadow, its crumbling towers and walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast root systems. If Angkor Wat, the Bayon and other temples are testimony to the genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta Prohm reminds us equally of the

PHNOM BAKHENG

Around 400m south of Angkor Thom, this hill’s main draw is the sunset view of Angkor Wat, though this has turned into something of a circus, with hundreds of visitors jockeying for space. The temple, built by Yasovarman I (r 889–910), has five tiers, with seven levels. PREAH KHAN

The temple of Preah Khan (Sacred Sword) is one of the largest complexes at Angkor, a maze of vaulted corridors, fine carvings and lichen-clad stonework. Constructed by Jayavarman VII, it covers a very large area, but the temple itself is within a rectangular wall of around 700m by 800m. Preah Khan is a genuine fusion temple, the eastern entrance dedicated to Mahayana Buddhism with equal-sized doors, and the other cardinal directions dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma with successively smaller doors, emphasising the unequal nature of Hinduism. NEAK POAN

Another late-12th-century work of – no surprises here – Jayavarman VII, this petite

ON LOCATION WITH TOMB RAIDER Several sequences for Tomb Raider (2001), starring Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft, were shot around the temples of Angkor. The Cambodia shoot opened at Phnom Bakheng with Lara looking through binoculars for the mysterious temple. The baddies were already trying to break in through the East Gate of Angkor Thom, by pulling down a giant polystyrene apsara statue. Reunited with her custom Landrover, Lara made a few laps around the Bayon before discovering a back way into the temple from Ta Prohm, where she plucked a sprig of jasmine and fell through into…Pinewood Studios. After battling a living statue and dodging Daniel Craig (aka 007) by diving oﬀ the waterfall at Phnom Kulen, she emerged in a floating market in front of Angkor Wat, as you do. She came ashore here before borrowing a mobile phone from a local monk and venturing into the temple, where she was healed by the abbot. Nick Ray worked as Location Manager for Tomb Raider in Cambodia

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR A T OHP UTLNSEDS AONFGAKO N GR KO T HRO M S EIRGM

The Terrace of the Leper King, just north of the Terrace of Elephants, is a 7m-high platform. On top of the platform stands a nude, though sexless, statue, another of Angkor’s mysteries. Legend has it that at least two of the Angkor kings had leprosy. More likely it is Yama, the god of death, and that the Terrace of the Leper King housed the royal crematorium.

awesome fecundity and power of the jungle. There is a poetic cycle to this venerable ruin, with humanity first conquering nature to rapidly create, and nature once again conquering humanity to slowly destroy. Built from 1186 and originally known as Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. Ta Prohm is a temple of towers, close courtyards and narrow corridors. Ancient trees tower overhead, their leaves filtering the sunlight and casting a greenish pall over the whole scene. It is the closest most of us will get to feeling the magic of the explorers of old.

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temple just east of Preah Khan has a large square pool surrounded by four smaller square pools, with a circular ‘island’ in the middle. Water once flowed from the central pond into the four peripheral pools via four ornamental spouts, in the form of an elephant’s head, a horse’s head, a lion’s head and a human head. ROLUOS GROUP

The monuments of Roluos, which served as Indravarman I’s (r 877–89) capital, are among the earliest large permanent temples built by the Khmers and mark the dawn of Khmer classical art. Preah Ko, dedicated to Shiva, has elaborate inscriptions in Sanskrit on the doorposts of each tower and some of the best surviving examples of Angkorian plasterwork. The city’s central temple, Bakong, with its five-tier central pyramid of sandstone, is a representation of Mt Meru. Roluos is 13km east of Siem Reap along NH6. BANTEAY SREI

SIEM RE AP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR A R O U N D A N G KO R T H O M

Considered by many to be the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art, Banteay Srei – a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva – is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving anywhere on earth. Begun in AD 967, it is one of the few temples around Angkor not to be commissioned by a king, but by a Brahman, perhaps a tutor to Jayavarman V.

CAMBODIA ONLINE www.andybrouwer.co.uk A great gateway to all things Cambodian; includes comprehensive links and regular Cambodian travel articles. www.concertcambodia.org Siem Reap–based organisation ‘connecting communities, environment and responsible tourism’. www.lonelyplanet.com Information on travelling to and within Cambodia, the Thorn Tree Travel Forum and up-todate travel news. www.phnompenhpost.com The online version of Cambodia’s newspaper of record. www.samveasna.org The best source of information on sustainable visits to Cambodia’s world-class bird sanctuaries.

Banteay Srei, 21km northeast of Bayon and about 32km from Siem Reap, can be visited along with Kbal Spean and the Cambodia Landmine Museum. KBAL SPEAN

Kbal Spean is a spectacularly carved riverbed, set deep in the jungle about 50km northeast of Angkor. More commonly referred to in English as the ‘River of a Thousand Lingas’, it’s a 2km uphill walk to the carvings. From there you can work your way back down to the waterfall to cool oﬀ. Carry plenty of water. At the nearby Angkor Centre for Conservation of Biodiversity (ACCB; www.accb -cambodia.org), traﬃcked animals are nursed

back to health. Free tours generally begin at 1pm daily except Sunday. PHNOM KULEN

The most sacred mountain in Cambodia, Phnom Kulen (487m) is where Jayavarman II proclaimed himself a devaraja (god-king) in AD 802, giving birth to Cambodia. A popular place of pilgrimage during weekends and festivals, the views it aﬀords are absolutely tremendous. Phnom Kulen is 50km from Siem Reap and 15km from Banteay Srei. The road toll is US$20 per foreign visitor; none of this goes towards preserving the site. BENG MEALEA

Built by Suryavarman II to the same floor plan as Angkor Wat, Beng Mealea (admission US$5) is the Titanic of temples, utterly subsumed by jungle. Nature has well and truly run riot here. Jumbled stones lie like forgotten jewels swathed in lichen, and the galleries are strangled by ivy and vines. Beng Mealea is about 65km northeast of Siem Reap on a sealed toll road. KOH KER

Abandoned to the forests of the north, Koh Ker (admission US$10), capital of the Angkorian empire from AD 928 to AD 944, is now within day-trip distance of Siem Reap. Most visitors start at Prasat Krahom, where impressive stone carvings grace lintels, doorposts and slender window columns. The principal monument is Mayan-looking Prasat Thom, a 55m-wide, 40m-high sandstone-faced pyramid whose seven tiers oﬀer spectacular views across the forest. However, access to Prasat Thom is currently prohibited for safety reasons. Koh Ker is 127km northeast of Siem Reap (car hire around US$80, 2½ hours).

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