Advanture Magazine issue 08 by Advanture Magazine

Advanture MAGAZINE N°8

ISSN 2696-9483

“Ethical hedonism and reclaiming life from work-slavery were also intrinsic in the politics and philosophy of the time.” J a n F l a h e r t y, g r o w i n g u p w i t h t h e N e w A g e Tr a v e l l e r s o f t h e 1 9 8 0 ’s

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EDITOR Alex Brown CO-EDITOR Mascha Blome CONTRIBUTORS Reece Markham, Glenn Ferguson, K e n d a l l B a g g e r l y, Ta r n A s h a , Christoph Goerissen, Mascha Blome, J a n F l a h e r t y, D a v i d H a m i l t o n - J o n e s , Brian Mundo, Jose Maria Piasentini, Jessica Rambo, Phil & Lui A special thank you to the Patreon supporters who are generously donating to the creation of this magazine. J a m e s Ye a r d l e y, J a n i k Vo t h , S a p t o . w w w. p a t r e o n . c o m / a d v a n t u r e m a g a z i n e

W E B S I T E w w w. a d v a n t u r e m a g a z i n e . c o m FA C E B O O K /advanturemagazine I N S TA G R A M @ a d v a n t u r e m a g a z i n e E M A I L editor@advanturemagazine.com

I L L U S T R AT I O N S

p70 Shaun Copp

COVER IMAGE Commissioned by Advanture Magazine. Artist Christoph Goerissen @coconut_pineapple_illustration

B A C K PA G E I M A G E Philipp & Luisa @philandlui photo b y @ Tw o a n d a v a n

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8 EDITORS NOTE

PARK UP: LET OUR PEOPLE CAMP

Eat, sleep, drive and work on the road. Sounds perfect, right? Our editor tries to find a work/life balance while on the road w i t h h i s f a m i l y.

While the whole vanlife world seems totally focused on finding that perfect wild camp spot to boast about, maybe we have in fact been overlooking the very best paid camp sites.

22 SHAPING DREAMS

34 COASTLINES

Tw o Au s s i e l a d s s e t t h e m s e l v e s w h a t looks like an impossible task, shaping surfboards while on the road in their c a m p e r s . H e a d o u t t o Au s t r a l i a i n t h i s a r t i c l e w i t h s o m e b e a u t i f u l p h o t o g r a p h y.

There might as well be salt water flowing through the veins of Mascha Blome. This is the story of what life looks like when you set your heart on living life by the ocean.

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42 OLD TIMERS

Britain belonged to Thatcher in the ‘ 8 0 s . Pe o p l e w e r e l e a v i n g t h e c i t i e s and hitting the road in search of i n d i v i d u a l i t y. I n 1 9 8 5 , B a t t l e o f t h e B e a n f i e l d r o c k e d t h e u t o p i a n s o c i e t y.

Spend enough time on the road and you’ll soon get the vision for what your ultimate adventure van would be, and develop the skills to get that dream out of the garage and onto the road.

SPOTLIGHT ON: IRAN

There is a different form of timekeeping i n Pe r s i a , o r I r a n a s We s t e r n e r s k n o w i t b y t o d a y. We v i s i t t h e c o u n t r y t h r o u g h the eyes of a small family from Andorra.

TALLER: ADVENTURE SPRINTER BUILD

INTERVIEW: SKOOLIE WAY OF LIFE

This is what a home on wheels is really about. School bus platforms come in a wide variety of lengths, offering a considerably bigger liveable space than the typical van does.

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Kendall and Glenn from Shaping Dreams on p20

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EDITORS NOTE D

igital nomad. That’s just pretending to work, right? I’ve only ever had one real job, the sort of one that society accepts as “normal” or “half-decent”. Nearly ten years ago my girlfriend and I were living in a van in Australia, rolling into Brisbane with just change on the dashboard. She picked up a cash-in-hand job at a cafe and I got myself a gig with a contract, dress code, a big salary and a truly horrible boss. Quickly I discovered that no salary was worth hours of precious life wasted slaving away for this ass-hole’s company. I lasted four weeks. Over the years surrounding that episode, I’ve pursued the dream of making it as a freelance photo and video producer, although never really having made much money out of it. But to be frank, the journey I have had up until now is worth way more to me than having a bank full of money, or the keys to a mortgage. I’ve seen the world. All of my work was done from a laptop, whatever WIFI I could connect to and more times than not has required me to go to different locations to produce work. It’s digital work but I don’t think there was much nomadic nature to it. So why does the vanlife scene cling onto the digital nomad thing like we’ve discovered the juice? In the last issue we ran a story in Park Up about how solar is enabling the modern vanlifer in a modern world. Parked up at the beach with my feet hanging out of the sliding door, a cold beer in my hand, typing editorial for Advanture mag on an ipad. I have tried to sell myself this romantic vision of how life could look time and time again, but for me it just doesn’t work.

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. . . w e c o l l e c t e d o u r p a y, put t he van in gear and never looked back.

Editing this issue has been a blast. There is so much going on in the community right now, and some things from the past that have thankfully never returned. Taking a look back to early ‘80s Great Britain was an eye opener and would have been quite a dark time if you didn’t fit into Thatcher’s Britain. If you think we have it hard today with pricey fuel and some no camping signs, go and find out how the New Age Travellers were treated in Old Timers . I also discovered how much I might love to be a Skoolie. I knew there were a few people converting old school buses to travel in, but I have come to find out that there is a growing culture of full-timers who literally create complete rolling homes within the hulls of those classic yellow school buses. It’s got me wondering, could I in fact start building a pad like this for myself in the near future? Maybe even run one as a mobile publishing bus? Lives are being played out for families living this real nomadic way of life, much like that witnessed in previous generations when there were other periods of sharp inflation and housing crises. On the lead up to summer and with a seriously strong urge to go see somewhere new, the decision was made from one moment to the next to pack and go. Barcelona had become uninteresting, we wanted to take our baby outside into nature, and we longed for that feeling of living on the road with little to no plans once again. Advanture mag 08 had been roughly drafted but all of the content needed writing and countless photographs would need curating. No problem to work on my long list of jobs while on the road, so I thought.

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Weeks into the trip I still hadn’t started writing. Distractions were strong. One afternoon while parked up with a magnificent view over km’s of natural park, enjoying early summer warmth somewhere in Asturias, I became a little motivated to write. After clearing a space in the van, putting the kettle on, rolling out the awning, helping change the baby, looking for a coffee cup, looking for the laptop. I finally sit down and am ready to type. Sure the daily chaos of living in a small Volkswagen slows down my ability to work, but I am building my own thing here, I must make it happen or end up working back at a job I don’t want to again. However, the thing standing in the way of getting any work done was the excitement of seeing new places, hiking stunning trails, exploring towns and literally everything else that you go on a road trip for. The baby throws her food around. Another 10 minutes spent cleaning that up... Working on the road looks and sounds beautiful to me and I really want to make it a sustainable long-term reality. But it’s not easy at all. On our six week road trip I barely got anything done and submitted myself to the lure of just enjoying the time on the road and living in the moment, together as a new family. Is anyone out there working digi nomad style and actually getting things done? I would love to sit by a camp fire with you, have a beer and find out how on earth you can stay focused with so much amazing life happening all around you all of the time. If you were curious to know what happened back in Brisbane? Well, we collected our first pay, didn’t even bother handing our notices in, put the van in gear and never looked back.

@alexbrowndop

ALEX BROWN

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PA R K U P Let our people camp

There comes a time and a place to check into a camp site. Words by Alex Brown

P15 Armand & Zia on a trip from Germany to Spain

@zia_suarez @armandpou

P16 Becky Brown and family. @vanventures_of_five

P19 Brien Godby roaming aruond the USA @theotherground

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LET OUR PEOPLE CAMP

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ave you been left searching for a place to park up in the evening, not having made a concrete plan earlier in the day? In no particular order of priority you’ll be considering the safety of a spot, and how amazing that sunrise view is going to look while you lay in bed peering out the window. While there are countless and sublime wild camping spots available across the planet, finding the best of them has never been easy. And it is getting harder. When the time calls there is an easier way, dare we say it. The camp site. The general vibe in the vanlife world leans towards seeking out epic wild camping spots, but when none are showing up, maybe you may have in fact overlooked searching out some of the best camp sites in the area you are exploring. While rules on wild camping in a van vary greatly between regions and countries, generally it takes that bit more effort and knowledge to camp for free and get away with it. So while we, the team at Advanture mag, daydream all the time about camping under stars on empty beaches, we do accept the reality that it isn’t often possible. One of the beautiful aspects of life on the road is in the massive diversity of people that are out there today. Asking them what would be the camping spot of their dreams would definitely return answers, none of which would be totally the same. It could be on an alpine pass with views over the mountain tops, in the vastness of a desert, deep in a rainy forest … we could go on. And this is where people may not be considering that there would be a camp site available close by to all of these locations. A legal, safe and serviced one. Recently Zia and Armand hit the road to explore parts of the Alps for the first time. This is a place to go for great hiking and fresh alpine air. “For us, the main priority is to sleep surrounded by nature,” Armand tells us. “We live in a big city, so

escaping was one of the main reasons for this trip. It was actually hard to find legal spots to camp across Germany, Austria and Italy, and we were always kind of nervous that someone would show up in the middle of the night to kick us out. We never found the perfect spot, but the ones we did find were special. In terms of security, central Europe always feels much safer than travelling across France or Spain. For me, sleeping somewhere close to the Mediterranean sea will be like the dream spot, but it’s too busy and crowded, so we were always looking for spots inland.” To eliminate the stress of needing to find places to stay every night, the couple opted for a mix of wild and paid sites. “We try to sleep in a camp site every two nights to fill up tanks, clean the van and maybe do a washing of sorts. For us, it was super important to find a camp site surrounded by nature.” See where the globe trotting duo Zia and Armand are heading next on Instagram. @zia_suarez @armandpou Having the ability to live for periods of time on the road and in your van, means that you’ll likely carry quite a bit of equipment around to increase your level of comfort. A set of good chairs and a table to relax on under an awning provides much needed refuge after a day spent exploring. The problem is, the countries that do tolerate wild camping often draw the line at taking things out of your vehicle. We won’t be able to even consider setting up a fire pit in this scenario. A camp site gives us this freedom to unpack, because sometimes, you are going to just want to get out your gear and use it. When checking out a camping site you can get a good idea for the layout ahead of arrival using Google Maps or something similar. Look to see what pitches have trees for cover, if you want it for shade or somewhere for throwing up a hammock.

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It was ha rd to f i nd lega l spots to camp across G e r m a n y, A u s t r i a a n d I t a l y. We w e r e a l w a y s k i n d o f ner vous t hat someone wou ld show up in t he midd le of t he n ig ht to ma ke us leave ... Armand Pou, Spain | @armandpou

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Some sites charge a premium for mountain or beach views, depending on the location you are visiting. But that extra few bucks per night will be worth it so you can check out the surf in the morning, or see the sun going down in the evening right from beside your van. It is all about the experience after all. Sites with services are also a consideration for those who have not been able to invest in as much gear for off-grid capacity. Camp sites often have areas to cook, clean and plug into for power. The price of a site should be looked at as more than just the pitch, as you’ll be able to use other services at the site and these should be seen as a way to justify the cost a little. Saving the gas or other facilities you would have used on board can go a long way if you are out for months at a time. If you have tanks in your van for dirty water or waste collected in a toilet, then you will definitely need to know where to respectfully empty them. Countries in Europe such as France and Spain are well set up, providing hundreds of free places to drain your grey and black water. But places such as the UK prove very difficult to find a solution, except for on camp sites. Many people have luck in asking at the reception to dump their tanks for a small fee, which

doesn’t mean you have to stay on the site for the night to get access. But there is also the option available to feel like you are out in the wilderness without needing to be. You just need to vet some camp sites to see things like the overall size and what they do, and do not have in the way of facilities offered. “So far we have only camped in camp sites or on the drive as there aren’t any places local to us where you are allowed to wild camp.” Becky Brown, wife and mother of three kids who love to adventure. “We are near the New Forest (UK) and almost no areas allow overnight parking. The paid sites that we choose are back to basics, with limited or no facilities so they have that wild camping feel to them. We have solar panels for charging phones so we don’t need EHU (electric hook up) and have a porta potti so don’t need toilets either. We try to avoid sites that are big or have lots of activities put on, as we would much rather the peace and sense of freedom than a loud bar and lots of people. We have also learned that it works well to stay at places where you can walk to visit nearby places of interest. With three young children we have car seats and bits to

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... paid sites t hat we choose are back to basics, wit h li mited or no facilit ies so t hey have t hat wild c a mpi ng feel ... Becky Brown, United Kingdom | @vanventures_of_five

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Some neighbourhoods are friendly and welcome van dwelling ... others see you crawl out your van and call t h e p o l i c e i m m e d i a t e l y. B r i e n G o d b y, U n i t e d S t a t e s | @ t h e o t h e r g r o u n d

move in and out each time we want to leave, which works - but it’s also nice to just be able to wander off to the forest for a walk, the beach for a swim or the pub for some treats. That being said, We love the idea of wild camping and will definitely look to do it in the future. We are planning a five week trip to Scotland next summer and wild camping is much more accepted there. We are hoping to go with a rough plan of the islands and other places that we want to visit. We’ll plan around the weather forecast and how we are feeling, moving on when we are ready.” @vanventures_of_five Looking beyond the UK and Europe, the experience vanlifers can have is totally different in destinations such as the United States and Australia. BLM land in the US offers vanlifers the recreational space to enjoy wild camping to the fullest. But if you are considering making visits to their National Parks, then you are going to need to make plans to find a camp site to stay at, avoiding any problems with the law. Ultimately, we need to respect the boundaries of all locations in order to preserve the good life that this lifestyle provides. Full-time vanlifer, Brien Godby, in the USA tells us a bit about how the scene looks there at the moment. “I’ve been living in my van for over four years and I’ve paid for a camp site less than five times. Because I have solar power and enough water storage to last me for weeks, I never have any reason to stay at a campground. There are so many free options to wild camp, so it never makes sense to stay at a site. The

only time it’s worth paying for a site is if it’s inside a National Park. It’s usually pretty difficult to find free spots close to park entrances. I’ve found it’s more difficult to find legal wild camping on the east coast of the United States than it is on the west coast. It’s much more developed on that side of the country, and much more regulated.” Available space back in Europe might also be the deciding factor on why wild camping is becoming harder to enjoy and increasingly more regulated. While there are places you can reach and feel properly disconnected, you will likely still be within an hour or two of the next populated area. While in larger continents such as Australia for example, there are areas you could drive for a day and not even find phone reception. Brien also tells us about urban camping. “As far as city camping goes, it’s becoming more and more difficult as vanlife grows in popularity. Cities are creating ordinances that prevent sleeping inside your vehicle, so even if you’re parked legally, they can kick you out or give you a ticket. Some neighbourhoods are friendly and welcome van dwelling as a part of life, where others see you crawl out your van and call the police immediately. It just depends on the locals of whatever city you’re in.” Brien creates some great digital art, inspired by his time spent on the road. @theotherground What is your preference when parking up for the night? Join in the conversation on Instagram and tag us in your stories to show us #advanturemagazine AM

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SHAPING DREAMS Surfing isn’t just part of some pop culture fantasy in Australia. It is embodied into the way of life of people of all ages and backgrounds. Meeting on the road, two young guys make a trip of a lifetime to Western Australia for a summer of endless days spent surfing perfect water, living out of their vans and setting up a mobile board shaping getup to top the experience off. Words and photos by Reece Markham and Glenn Ferguson

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One must be prepared for hitting the road in Australia. Crossing parts of the country means having to navigate the hostile and barren outback where temperatures can easily exceed 45c on a summer’s day. Situated on a peninsula jutting out into the Indian Ocean is the remote town of Exmouth. And this is where two Aussie lads have been shaping dreams recently.

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lenn, living with his partner Kendall, together have been travelling Australia for the last two years. Initially from the East Coast of Australia, their home is now a trusty old Volkswagen T3, which has taken them to most corners of the country. Reece and his partner Tarn embarked on the road from South Australia eighteen months ago and have been in Western Australia most of that time. Their large Iveco Daily was a self built camper project which has been their home base ever since. --Individually we had both toyed with the idea of shaping our own surfboards since we were young. As it goes, we always had found excuses not to, all because it was too hard at the specific time. It wasn’t until we met each other and became good mates that we really started to consider the idea more seriously. We spent so much of our time together talking about boards, board designs, fin set-ups and always exchanged boards to trial with when surfing. When travelling through Esperance (Western Australia) we finally decided to take the leap into shaping our own rides as we were planning to spend the upcoming winter in North West Australia, in a small town called Exmouth. As we both were going to continue to live out of our vans over the upcoming winter, we knew it was going

to be seriously tough to shape some surfboards. Boards are primarily shaped in a very predictable, controlled and closed environment. Exmouth is belted by intense sun almost everyday, very windy at times and sits on a remote desert which means a lot of dirt and sand would definitely be flying around. No one has shaped boards on the road because really, it’s a bit silly. With so many uncontrollable factors and the materials being very dependent on weather conditions, it makes it hard to keep a very particle and refined task up to the best standard that is required. Shaping a surfboard is a very challenging task even in a professional shaping bay. Electric tools and years of experience go a long way here, so we were definitely up against a challenge. Alone in a remote camp spot getting cooked by the sun, all we had was a few hand tools and absolutely no experience. This was the place where our dreams would be born. Our approach was a camping marquee and a few tarps on the floor. We both were quite confident we were going to be okay when it came to shaping the surfboard as we had basic experience with hand tools from having built out our own vans, but glassing was our main concern. Fiberglassing was completely foreign to the both of us and it is one of the most critical elements of a good end product.

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The shaping of the foam blanks went pretty smoothly. We took our time, meticulously measuring everything and the foam shapes came out quite well. We had both decided to shape mid-length twin fins due to our love for twin fins and both not having a longer board for bigger waves.

Follow the crew on Instagram @oakieonfilm (Reece & Tarn) @glennferguson_ @kendallbaggerly @solsidestudio

While set up in Northern Western Australia our lives feel pretty surreal. We all work as photographers and are embarking on our videography dreams, starting with this project as our first proper film material. When we aren’t “working” we are either hanging out at the beach with our dogs Leo & Finn, free-diving on the Ningaloo Reef or surfing. We check the forecasts every morning and depending on whether there is a good swell or not, depends if we go surfing all day or mix it up with other activities such as diving. Prevailing offshore winds during the winter means that the chances of getting that perfect glassy surf, luckily is a pretty common occurrence. Don’t miss the release of the duo’s first creative film, Shaping Dreams on YouTube

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W E L L- T R A V E L L E D IN S P IR AT I ON Words by Christoph Goerissen

What influenced me the most are the many vacations I took when I was a child. Today, I really like having found a way to travel with art, even if I’m sitting in my small studio with a cup of tea and not on the road in my own mini camper. I think so many people really love to travel using a van, tent or bike. And it excites me. I think about the joys of meeting new people who approach life in the same way as I do. Anticipation of all of those amazing places you know are out there. All of the roads you have not yet travelled, but already feel like you know them. Painting other travellers’ vans is a way for me to meet many people who share the same passion for camping and travelling, as much as they do for art. It connects me with strangers and quickly, we become friends. It’s great fun and completely fulfilling. Nothing makes me happier than being asked to draw someone’s mini home. Studying design helped me so much to improve my techniques. But at the core of my drawings, is the way I include countless details. A love for warm natural tones came about when I took a closer look at influences from nature. I like to sit at my desk with relaxing music playing. My watercolour box is well travelled, thanks to endless brush strokes taken across the paper. Where can which detail be installed? Where do I stand later with the bus? Everything is open and leaves plenty of room for creativity. I’m looking forward to many more vans, campers, trucks and other vehicles to draw. It’s just a lot of fun and it’s great to see the joy at the handover when another painted bus arrives with the owner. Be sure to visit Christoph on Instagram at @coconut_pineapple_illustration

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There is some serious exploration to be enjoyed in Iceland. Read our spotlight guide on page 86. @willicamper

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COASTLINES Wet skin is caressed by a cool breeze that wraps around your skin. An ocean view out the window. Sipping a sundowner cider with seagulls soaring overhead. Those who go searching for an endless summer can expect to be rewarded with moments that all the money in the world would struggle to buy. You need to submit yourself to putting in the time to wonder. There might as well be salt water pumping through the veins of Mascha Blome. Here is the tale of a girl drawn from the land, into the sea. Words Mascha Blome, photos Alex Brown

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might not be an old timer, but when it comes to spending time in a van, I would call myself “einen alten Hasen“ German for an old rabbit ... experienced in something. Since born I have spent almost all my holidays in small camper vans, mobile homes, pick ups, tents, cars and boats. Now thinking back, it was the cosiest and most adventurous childhood I could have imagined having. I also remember that people always gave their opinion towards it, with us having to justify how we could afford going on holidays for six weeks during summer to the other kids at school. I guess ten days Caribbean all inclusive and months on a camp site cost equally the same? Your choice to make at the end of the day. What others looked down on I looked at as fascinating. I wanted to be a circus girl, have a carousel and travel the world with my home, family and favourite things all on my back. Just like a little hermit crab. A different school every month sounded great to me, unfortunately working remotely probably wasn’t an option for my parents in the 80’s and 90’s. Once I had finished school, even though I did not have a van, my mind was set on destinations far beyond my home town. My travels mostly brought me to coastlines, shores, beaches and islands. Quickly I found myself far away from home, I loved it. Although travelling alone I found myself surrounded by like minded people whom I could share this wanderlust with. But I also had to start dealing with thinning connections back home. Keeping at it for long enough, you become a person for whom home is not a location anymore. I met my travel partner and “mobile home” for life, ten years ago and being vagabonds felt like our

natural way of life. I can still hear him say “I’m from the beach”, which at the time made me realise that I grew up landlocked without a sea or ocean at the end of my road. Since that moment all I have ever wanted to be able to say is that I now come from the beach! After only a short time experiencing vanlife in Europe together, we decided to leave our red T4 behind to travel the greater world. It would take us a few years, but we could not wait to get behind the wheel of a new van, somewhere, somehow. Eventually we made it to Australia and bought a tiny Mitsubishi L300, our home for a slow and steady trip with surfboards up the East Coast from New South Wales to Queensland. When we moved across to New Zealand, we sold the van and lived out of an old Honda station wagon; the seats folded down and we laid out sleeping bags in the rear. What stories we collected like this. Later back in Europe, vanlife became our weekend and holiday life, first with a white VW T4 from a flower shop in Spain, and now a luxurious VW T5 California. The vehicles have all been amazing, but it is the feelings of being outside and in the wild which fills me with some tantalising sensations. Window views of sunrises and sunsets, weather, waves, colours of seasons, bays and beaches, coastal towns and their flair became our hobby. For me, it is all about the perfect camp and bay for the day. To wake up in the van, have a peek out of the window to see the glassy fresh ocean and cool sand before the sun warms it up, makes you feel and smell it before even opening the door. You start moving 1000 things before you can put the coffee on and eventually find a dress to slide over the swimsuit that you slept in. By the time you have put sunscreen over the mosquito repellent from last night,

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the coffee is ready and the sun is slowly making its way across the sea and up to the beach. Everything changes in a moment, the sand turns golden and soft. The ocean is waking up, too. Small waves are licking the shoreline, making tempting lapping noises. You can hear seagulls and see schools of bait fish jumping in silver flashes. Nobody’s here yet, except us, drinking our coffee. One of us climbs out of the van to hang the still damp wetsuits into the morning sun, just as it starts to reach our bike rack. Once the coffee is finished I try to put my salty unbrushed hair into a bun, to then put on my unfortunately still wet and cold wetsuit .. nice! I squeeze contacts into sleepy eyes, find my mask and fins and run down the little road to the beach. The concrete is already warm and soft under the bare feet. I reach the sand, warm on top and cool beneath the crust. Closer to the water the sand becomes mixed with colourful shells, rolling around in the gentle laps of the tiny waves. The water is fresh, soft and

somehow sharp at the same time, tickling my legs and telling me so much about what I can expect for how the sea will feel this morning. Walking in with my mask on my head, I sit down in the shallow water to pull on fins. Fish circle my legs. The cold water finds its way into my wetsuit... I am still not sure if I love or hate this feeling. It’s special. Looking and feeling awkward, not human, not fish, but then I turn around, dive down to swim deeper out into the bay. Diving down you leave the world we know and enter another, more relaxing and calming one. Whilst you are observing the animals and colours your mind wanders off to other dives and other locations you have been to. In the same way as I can remember my favourite cafés, streets or beaches, I know the layout of the underwater worlds I have visited. Bays, rock faces and coral reefs in the Maldives, Spain, Sardinia and Australia. Even specific dives and animals I

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saw are vivid in my mind. Like the little seahorse I somehow spotted on the harbour wall in Sa Tuna on the Costa Brava, or clear shallow water on the East Coast in Sardinia, the amazing fairy pool full of young coral in Noosa Heads Australia. Coming back to the now, my eyes get a hint of something shiny deep below, and can’t wait to dive down to find a little treasure to bring back to my daughter waiting in the van back on Earth. An hour later I reach the beach, people are arriving, migrating to the coast with stacks of beach supplies for the day. Already they are sweaty and stressed from searching for a parking spot, it only just reached 9am. I go back to the van dripping wet and nicely cold from the dive, for once grateful for the warm air coming out when I open the door. Whilst trying to find a towel and slipping the wetsuit off, my attention turns towards the morning rituals ahead. We make another coffee, accompanied with eggs on toast. The

van seats turn wet, salty and sandy - we will clean it later - never do. It is barely 10am now and I feel awake yet sleepy at the same time. Still people are arriving and are looking enviously as I sit on the doorstep in my bikini. Salty and sandy, wetsuits and gear hanging all around, and a baby clinging onto the steering wheel. In towns and cities, people at this time of day are navigating rush hour traffic and sipping on bad coffee. Weekdays or weekends, call them what you like. Right now I am living free, free from the rules of a normal life. My engine won’t be switched on today, it didn’t yesterday either. Although, like during my childhood, many still often ask if we even work, live in the van full-time or are rich… I would say YES! But in a totally different currency than what you may think. Find Mascha underwater, or on IG @misstravelista

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I get back to the van dripping wet, cool sk in from t he d ive. For once I a m g ratef u l for t he warm air inside.

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OLD TIMERS Britain belonged to Thatcher in the ‘80s. Droves of people were leaving the cities and hitting the road in search of individuality. Friends would come together to buy old stage coaches for as little as £100, free festivals would see attendance numbers swell, and pressure was mounting on the Establishment to do something about it. In 1985, Battle of the Beanfield would rock the traveller community, changing the destiny of the utopian society forever. Words and photos by Jan Flaherty

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n the ‘80s and ‘90s vanlife was not a thing but New Travellers, or New Age Travellers – as branded by the media – were. Living in an eclectic mix of old painted buses, horseboxes and trucks they were noticeable. There was no notion of ‘stealth’ at all. New Travellers emerged from 1960’s hippy culture and the free festival movement of the 1970’s. Numbers of this nomadic culture escalated during the 1980s, in part because of a deep recession, social unease and growing homelessness. New Travellers provided an easy folk devil for the mainstream media to create a moral panic about. They were perceived as dirty, with scruffy vehicles, clothes and dogs. The term ‘crusties’ became a common label as the Travellers increasingly became viewed as problematic. They were also depicted as work-shy; the alternative gig economy of the festival scene didn’t count. --I remember first seeing the now-iconic image of a woman holding her baby surrounded by riot-gear-clad police in a field of buses, some burning. This was England 1985, at the ‘Battle of the Beanfield’. The New Travellers had been making their annual trip to the Stonehenge free festival when a last-minute high-court injunction placed a four-mile exclusion zone around the ancient site, effectively making the Travellers’ presence illegal. Police, with ID badges concealed, attacked the Travellers, smashed windows, and set alight to their live-in vehicles. More than five hundred Travellers were arrested, the largest mass arrest of civilians since the Second World War. My 15-yearold self was enraged at the injustice and immediately idealised the romance of a nomadic life for myself. I thought, “I want that”. I still do. Jump to 2020 and in a pause between lockdowns on a strikingly sunny day I drove to Sheffield to meet two blokes in a car park to see an old van. They said they were selling as they’d realised they weren’t legally allowed to drive it. The van was a standard white 2008 Vauxhall Movano, 17-seat minibus, all seats intact. The mileage was high at over 200,000 km, but the chassis was rust-free and on a brief test run it drove

well. I did the basic checks on the van’s history and condition; it wasn’t stolen and it seemed OK but as I’m no mechanic it was still a gamble. But it was cheap and what I was looking for, a base-van to convert for full-time vanlife in the UK and wintering in mainland Europe as much as possible. I bought it and caught the train the next day to collect it, buzzing with nerves and excitement. At the age of 51 I was finally getting back to life on the road. I write “getting back” because my idealistic teenage self achieved her non-mainstream ambition and by the end of the 1980s my partner and I were living in a converted green Leyland FG truck. The truck was a lovely thing with curved front wings, small glass panels at knee-height and a wooden front door at the back. As a people-carrying vehicle it had windows down each side, so it was light and airy. The black potbellied stove heated the van in about ten minutes and we slept in the cosy cab above the front seats, reached by a wooden ladder. It was simple; we had a Calor gas cooker, an oven and a washing up bowl. Paraffinfuelled hurricane lamps and candles provided all the light we needed. Although, I once remember seeing a halo around my head in the window before realising that I’d set my hair on fire! By contrast, my current van – converted with my brother’s help – has solar power which makes a world of difference in both comfort and convenience. The 100w solar panel, Victron MPPT solar charger and a good 125 AGM battery provide enough power for the LED lights and for charging my phone, kindle and laptop – items that certainly didn’t exist when I was van dwelling before. My new van has a foot-pump water system compared to the pour-outand-chuck-out version in the truck of the 80’s. Some things have stayed the same. I still have a wood-burner on board, albeit smaller than before, and I wouldn’t be without its warmth. There is something so homely about getting a decent fire going. About a third of the back of my van is taken up with wood that I gather as I travel, an act I enjoy in itself. Previously, no one had bathrooms in their trucks or buses as many vans do now. We had a spade. I still don’t have a dedicated shower or loo in my current van as I don’t want to sacrifice the room for a space that’s infrequently used.

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Being an old working vehicle, the Leyland FG was designed for men to drive. The steering wheel was enormous, like a ship’s helm, and the truck needed double clutching. Being 5ft and petite I struggled to reach the pedals the first time I drove it, but with cushions on the driving seat, a block on the pedal and my sights on Glastonbury festival I made myself go for it. At this time, 1990, the festival still had a free Travellers’ field. I rolled up to the main gate only to be told to go round the back. As I reversed and swung her round the narrow road I saw a figure on the hill opposite, it was a horse Traveller who rose from his make-shift fire, with its precariously balanced kettle, and greeted us by slowly waving, smiling all the while. It’s a scene I see clearly in my mind’s eye and I’m still moved by it. That wave, that wonderful gesture that stretches across time, a sign of welcome, acceptance and friendship. The Travellers’ field had its own stage and I remember the Levellers playing a great set to a fun crowd wild dancing and full of applause. Four years later they headlined at another Glastonbury, performing to 300,000 people, the largest audience number ever at the festival. A security fence was bypassed and gatecrashers couldn’t be kept out! The Traveller’s stage was also a general gathering place for exchanging news and general revelry, as well as a site of free food with leftovers brought over by stallholders from the main site. Living in a vehicle back then was a totally different way of being in the world, beyond materialism, careerism and prior to the omnipresent digital realm. By 1991 we were expecting our first child. As my due date got closer, we moved to a quiet country lane with one other couple and their bus. I went into labour in our truck and as we left to go to the hospital the guy from the bus joined us for the drive, playing wonderful tunes on his mandolin to welcome the moment. Unfortunately, the moment became slightly marred when a police car arrived to tell us to move. I had to lean on their bonnet as I was having contractions. I returned to the truck with my newborn daughter the following day, her first home.

Just like today, reasons for living in a vehicle back then are many and varied. For some it was a rejection of the materialism and waste in mainstream society, and many wanted to be closer to nature. For others it was a decision based on economic necessity. For many it was about creating a community of similar people, broadly sharing a non-mainstream philosophy together. For me it was a bit of each of them with the lure of an inherent sense of freedom one can gain from the lifestyle. As well as an alternative to mainstream society, it was also a microcosm of it. With a mix of the privileged and the needy, being on site together was a great leveller. As were the politics. Mutual aid was embedded in the anarchist politics of New Travellers. For example, in Oxford we parked up next to a camouflaged painted caravan, and this was available to anyone who was homeless or needed a place to stay. For as long as necessary to that person, and was never to be sold, just passed on to whoever was in need. It would be hitched onto any vehicle that could tow it to the next site the current inhabitants, and those towing, wanted to go. Similarly, any New Travellers living in benders – a basic dome tent made from willow or hazel sticks curved over and covered with a tarp – would grab a ride in someone’s vehicle when we moved on. Ethical hedonism and reclaiming life from work-slavery were also intrinsic in the politics and philosophy of the time. One bus had a full piano including candelabras on either side as well as nine white Husky Alsatians, it was a case of life becoming art. One part of the politics-as-party lifestyle was the crossover between New Travellers and the ‘rave’ scene of the time, a way to have fun and provide an informal income. The politics were embodied, in both the vehicles and the people. Many Travellers had locks (dreadlocks), created with love and beeswax. As well as symbolising a detachment from mainstream British cultural norms it made sense in an environment where washing your hair wasn’t easy or frequently carried out. Everyday issues were not so different back then as they are now, like finding water and park-ups for a night.

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Hard standing was always preferred in the British winter and the largely abandoned Victorian psychiatric hospitals in Surrey were perfect. Not only were there plenty of large tarmacked areas, enough for the numerous trucks and buses, but they were built to be intentionally isolated and therefore had acres of woodland and gardens for us to enjoy and not disturb the world outside. One morning while strolling with the dog, an enormous stag emerged from the mist. I was as stunned as it was. It remains for me one of those rare moments in life of absolute awe. The lived politics of then seems one of the significant differences to vehicle-living now. Hashtag vanlife isn’t necessarily a rejection of any part of ‘mainstream’ life. In the truck we rarely travelled alone whereas now I nearly always do. I may sometimes share a park up with others, but people often inhabit their own spaces rather than a shared outdoor space for any length of time. A lack of interdependency brings about isolation. In the 80’s and 90’s we travelled – much like the traditional Roma – as a convoy, occupying a piece of land as a group, which would be from a few vehicles to a dozen or more. Fruit picking and festival work were seasonal

staples in the summer and autumn, which also provided a place to park up. But the winter often meant signing on the dole (UK: claiming welfare benefits) and doing odd handyman and cleaning jobs wherever it could be found. For many park ups we would choose council land as that allowed for the longest time tolerated and the least trouble. A park up could maybe last for months, but weeks were more the norm. One time, a group of us pitched up on a large field in a village near Kidlington, Oxfordshire, belonging to the famous British entrepreneur of a record label and airline. His gardener was a gentle yoga-loving man who invited my partner and me in for tea. Walking through the magnificent property we passed a number of black swans swimming elegantly on the garden pond! The anti-traveller legislation of the 1986 Public Order Act had already disrupted both traditional and New Traveller ways of life before I’d even begun it. The 1994 Criminal Justice Act with its restrictions on ‘unauthorised encampments’ and free parties made a nomadic existence in larger groups challenging. Many New Travellers went to mainland Europe or just stopped travelling altogether. We went to a farm in

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My 15 -ye a r- old s e l f wa s en raged at t he i njust ice a nd i m med iately idea lised t he romance of a nomadic life. I t h o u g h t , “ I w a n t t h a t ”. I still do.

South Africa where our second child was born before returning to live in rural Wales for several years. Living in the truck was everyday life and I wish I’d appreciated it more at the time but maybe that’s just youth’s folly, whatever you do you take it for granted. I wish I’d spent more time at the fires, had more conversations, gone to more parties and just absorbed it all. My return to the road was much more purposeful and my first winter away more ambitious than in my younger travelling days. The UK is grey enough in the summer. Grey and freezing cold is too much. In 2020 I searched for bluer skies and wider vistas. And I found them. I drove slowly to Greece from the UK through France, starting at the Somme, the site of my Great Grandfather’s end in the First World War, down the centre to Provence and along the French and Italian Riviera before taking the ferry to Greece, arriving at 2am filled with joy. For a whole five months I wandered, with the broad destination ‘country’ followed by the wide-ranging objectives of ‘nature’ ‘history’ and ‘culture.’ I didn’t have any detailed plans beyond this and it was wonderful. I spent an amazing New Year with two German couples in their vans on the Island

of Poros and explored the Peloponnese and the wilder side of western Greece for six weeks before having to leave the EU due to Brexit restrictions. A month travelling around Albania followed, before gradually making my return to Britain via Croatia, Montenegro and back into Italy to see Venice and do a pet sit near Vincenza for a week. I can honestly say it was both more incredible and easier than I thought it would be. I rarely went on a camp site, only three times in total. I was often able to park in extraordinary beach side and mountain locations, staying from one to four nights. Travelling as a lone female was remarked upon by others but there were only two incidents over the whole journey when I felt I had to move for reasons of safety. The only other unfortunate incidents were a headlamp bulb blowing in the south of France and a screw embedding in the front tyre, on the Island of Lefkada. My van travelled 10,499 miles across Europe and I would say it was the trip of a lifetime. And once you’re on the road, it’s hard to get off it. Follow Jan via her blog www.thingslostlostthings.com

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OUR SPONSORS

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Thank you to the sponsors for this issue of Advanture. These are the brands who answered our call when we went looking for great adventure gear that w i l l ke e p t h e m o d e r n v a n l i fe r w e l l - e q u i p p e d o n t h e o p e n r o a d . We c h a l l e n g e d t h e b r a n d s t o c o n t r i b u t e i n t e r e s t i n g p a r t s o f t h e i r o w n adventure, to tell us something about themselves or their products that we would not find out otherwise. They now become part of the story driven content that you are presented with on the pages of Advanture magazine.

NON-STOP COMFORT FOR NEVER ENDING ADVENTURES C r e a t e d i n t h e 1 9 8 0 s o u t o f t h e G r a n d C a n y o n , Te v a i s t h e o r i g i n a l s p o r t s a d v e n t u r e s a n d a l . A g r o u p o f f r i e n d s ke p t l o s i n g t h e i r f l i p - f l o p s w h e n w h i t e w a t e r r a f t i n g , s o d e c i d e d t o u s e s o m e o l d w a t c h s t r a p s t o ke e p t h e i r s a n d a l s o n t h e i r f e e t - a n d t h a t ’s h o w Te v a w a s b o r n . T h e o r i g i n a l i c o n w a s c r e a t e d t o g i v e p e o p l e t h e f r e e d o m t o r o a m . We inspire those who crave experiences and connections, in whatever form t h e y t a ke . T h a t s e l f- d e f i n i n g i d e a o f f r e e d o m s t i l l h o l d s t r u e t o d a y. We l i v e for moments of discovery and awe. Finding newness and wonder in each n e w e x p e r i e n c e — f r o m t h e e v e r y d a y t o e p i c . We ’ r e f o r e v e r h u n g r y f o r k n o w l e d g e g a i n e d b y e x p e r i e n c i n g t h e w o r l d t h r o u g h d i f fe r e n t c u l t u r e s , people, and places. Day in and day out, we strive to be your guide for adventure in whatever form you choose. Every inch of our footwear is conceived as a canvas. As enduring as they are timeless, our signature straps are continually reimagined in a variety of patterns, dreamt up by our designers from around the globe. In 2020, we transitioned 100% of our iconic straps to traceable verifiable recycled plastic using REPREVE® yarn. Since then, we’ve diverted 40 million plastic bottles from landfills and put them to better use, strapping sandals to your fe e t . D e d i c a t e d t o t u r n i n g w a s t e t h a t p o l l u t e s o u r p l a n e t i n t o s o m e t h i n g that helps you explore it, we’re seeking out sustainable alternatives for ke y m a t e r i a l s a n d s i g n i f i c a n t l y r e d u c i n g o u r e n v i r o n m e n t a l f o o t p r i n t t o d a y to give those who come after us the freedom to explore the outdoors t o m o r r o w. A d v e n t u r e i s c a l l i n g a n d t h e H u r r i c a n e r a n g e i s m a d e t o ke e p u p e v e r y s t e p o f t h e w a y. S t e p o f f t h e p a v e m e n t a n d o n t o t h e t r a i l i n u l t i m a t e c o m f o r t . I c o n i c u t i l i t y f o r i n f i n i t e p o s s i b i l i t y.

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GET SUMMER READY WITH OMNIA Summer is upon us and that means lots of adventure, sunshine and of course great food! If you haven’t heard of an Omnia before, where have y o u b e e n ? I t ’s a v a n l i fe e s s e n t i a l a n d p e r fe c t f o r a n y t i n y k i t c h e n , i n d o o r s or outdoors. This compact stove top oven will change the way you cook when on the road f o r s u r e . T h e r e ’s p l e n t y o f a c c e s s o r i e s t o i m p r o v e y o u r c o o k i n g e x p e r i e n c e such as silicone moulds and a baking rack. It all tucks into a little bag ready t o b e s t o r e d s a fe l y w h e n n o t i n u s e . If you already have the infamous little red oven then get inspired and put it to good use. What better way to enjoy the sunshine than enjoying good food with friends? The Omnia opens up exciting possibilities to help you cook up a storm, and will help to impress. The possibilities of what to cook are endless, impress your friends with sweet and savoury meals. Why not try some nachos, pizza, spinach and ricotta rolls, or something for the s w e e t t o o t h e d a m o n g u s l i ke c a ke , b r e a d a n d b i s c u i t s . Yo u r e a l l y c a n c o o k all of this in an Omnia Oven, so get Summer ready and get your Omnia on the stove top. I f y o u a r e l o o k i n g f o r t i p s a n d r e c i p e s t o m a ke i n y o u r s t h e n h e a d t o v a n l i fe e a t s . c o m , a n d b e s u r e t o s h a r e y o u r f a v o u r i t e r e c i p e s w i t h fe l l o w v a n l i fe r s w h i l e y o u ’ r e t h e r e !

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O U T D O O R A P PA R E L M A D E F R O M A B L E N D O F C R E AT I V I T Y, P E R F O R M A N C E AND ECO-CONSCIOUSNESS E v e r y t h i n g w e d o a t V O I T E D r e v o l v e s a r o u n d t h e fe e l i n g o f c o m f o r t a n d warmth after an epic outdoor adventure. Each product and every little product detail fulfils a true need for outdoor enthusiasts. With the original o u t d o o r b l a n ke t s , i n s u l a t e d c h a n g e w e a r a n d t e c h n i c a l s l i p p e r s w e a r e t h e authentic cornerstone for water sports, snow sports, and outdoor athletes, w h e n e v e r t h e r e ’s a n e e d t o “ S t e p i n t o C o m f o r t ”. C o m b i n i n g a l o v e o f t h e outdoors and adventure sports with a commitment to reducing the impact of manufacturing on the environment, we create collections focusing on c r e a t i v i t y, p e r f o r m a n c e , q u a l i t y, a n d s u s t a i n a b i l i t y. We i n t e g r a t e o n l y t h e b e s t e c o - c o n s c i o u s m a t e r i a l s a n d m o s t u s e f u l fe a t u r e s . W h e t h e r y o u a r e a s u r fe r, k a y a ke r, m o u n t a i n b i ke r, c l i m b e r o r j u s t general nature lover - we design with multiple purposes, high functionality and sustainability in mind. Our lightweight, durable and packable products are equipped with useful details to save you time and space so that you can purely enjoy your adventures. B l a n ke t s | C h a n g e w e a r | F o o t w e a r | A c c e s s o r i e s

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U LT I M AT E L I T H I U M B AT T E R I E S U LT I M AT E R E L I A B I L I T Y WE ARE ROAMER

A t R o a m e r, w e ’ v e b e e n l i v i n g t h e v a n l i fe f o r o v e r 1 0 y e a r s a n d w e u n d e r s t a n d w h a t i t t a ke s t o t r u l y l i v e o f f- g r i d . F r o m t h e e x p a n s e s o f e a s t e r n Tu r ke y t o the peaks of the Alps, we’ve been there and bought the fridge magnets. We u n d e r s t a n d t h a t t r u s t i n y o u r e q u i p m e n t i s c r u c i a l , a f a u l t y h e a t e r o r u n r e l i a b l e b a t t e r y p a c k c a n m a ke t h e d i f fe r e n c e b e t w e e n a n e x h i l a r a t i n g w i n t e r a d v e n t u r e a n d a m i s e r a b l e w e e ke n d r o u n d t r i p . When we started designing our third generation of lithium leisure batteries, t o p o f t h e l i s t w a s u l t i m a t e r e l i a b i l i t y. T h e q u a l i t y o f o u r b a t t e r i e s h a s a l w a y s b e e n h i g h a n d w e b a c k u p o u r c u r r e n t r a n g e w i t h a 1 0 y e a r w a r r a n t y, b u t how do we eliminate product failures and ensure we are the go-to battery f o r e x t r e m e v a n l i fe ? T h i s t i m e w e w e n t b a c k t o t h e ( v i r t u a l ) d r a w i n g b o a r d and redesigned things from scratch… C e l l s a r e n o w b u i l t i n t o v i b r a t i o n r e s i s t a n t b r a c ke t s a n d l a s e r w e l d e d u s i n g a u t o m o t i v e g r a d e e q u i p m e n t . We a d d e d a n a c t i v e b a l a n c e r t o t h e B M S , boosted the Bluetooth range and swapped the cables for flexible copper busbars. Every battery now goes through a rigorous testing process before l e a v i n g t h e f a c t o r y a n d c o m e s w i t h a q u a l i t y g u a r a n t e e . F i n a l l y, w e c h a n g e d to ser viceable cases to allow for on the road repairs and BMS upgrades in t h e f u t u r e . I t ’s n o t q u i t e b u l l e t p r o o f b u t t h i s i s a s c l o s e a s i t c o m e s .

T h i r d g e n e r a t i o n R o a m e r B a t t e r i e s n o w a v a i l a b l e a t r o a m e r. c o m

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D E F I N I T I O N ( S PA N I S H ) TA L L E R n o u n , m a s c u l i n e ( p l u r a l : t a l l e r e s m ) . Wo r k s h o p , s t u d i o , s h o p , g a r a g e . A p l a c e w h e r e dream adventure vans are born.

With enough time spent pursuing on and off-road adventures, be it for biking, surfing or even skiing, you’ll be sure to accumulate two things. The vision for what your ultimate adventure van would be, and the skills to get that dream out of the garage and onto the road. Words David Hamilton-Jones, photos Brian Mundo

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ri has been into camper vans from the moment he could drive. While his mates in the UK were dreaming of sporty hatchbacks, at the age of 17, Bri purchased a 1972 Bay Window VW Transporter. Abandoned for years, he acquired a welder and a compressor and set about teaching himself the skills required to fix it up. At that time there was not the huge pool of DIY van information we have available to us today, but with a vision for how a comfortable life on the road could look like, Bri jumped right in. The motivation; a desire to travel and find adventure. A keen mountain biker, skier and also into water sports, for his first trip, Bri and his girlfriend threw in their gear and took off. For nine-months, they travelled the coasts of France, Spain and Portugal. Before their return, Bri was convinced a larger van was needed. Back in the UK he trained and worked as a carpenter and set up his own business as a bespoke kitchen fitter. This paid the bills and honed his trade skills but the desire to build interesting camper vans was a passion that never subsided. This meant he always had a restoration or camper van conversion project on the go and many people would come to Bri for help with their own projects. Over the years there were countless European and African trips. Mountain bike and ski guiding and working in water sports sustained the nomadic lifestyle, while living full time in adventure vehicles enabled an enviable simple life. Over the years Bri’s personal vehicles included VW Transporters, Mercedes Sprinters and Varios, Ford Rangers, Mitsubishi Delicas and even an American Chevrolet RV.

Lessons learned on the road With a lifetime of land-based travel and now with a family, Bri has a clear understanding of what makes a good adventure vehicle without straining relationships in a small space. “My key things are space for sports gear, a large kitchen, sufficient storage tanks and more recently, air conditioning!” In the myriad of vehicles Bri has enjoyed, with all manner of fixed and make-up bed options, he has learned a lot. Fixed beds can make you lazy and they pick up all of the cooking smells. He would rather have the routine of clearing the bed away in the morning and transitioning to the activities of the day. Connecting the outside with the inside is also important, as they spend as much time outside as possible. These factors have all influenced the design of his current home on wheels, a long-wheelbase Mercedes Sprinter. Design “I see the same layout repeated over and over and love it when someone tries something different. In this van I really wanted to do that; lots of storage, a shower and toilet, a large kitchen with a big fridge and a feeling of space were all important design factors.” Bri didn’t want to lose any space with a fixed bed and full-size beds for the kids. But security was also critical, so he opted not to fit side extensions or a poptop roof. Rather, the main bed is designed to be only half size when closed. Beds for the kids, who are 2 and 4, are Cabbunks that are made up over the swivelled front seats for night time, but the half bed is also a favourite place for the children to have a nap during

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the day. These design considerations mean a large kitchen and storage for long items like surfboards and fishing rods can be prioritised. The intention was self-sustained travel and camping, so significant reserves of water, gas and battery storage were planned in. “I didn’t want an Instagram pretty van; the design priorities were practicality over aesthetics” Bri’s experience as a carpenter and kitchen fitter also influenced material choice. “There was to be no ‘house’ kitchen carcasses or timber worktops.” The build “The build turned out amazingly well considering there was no actual drawing, I just knew what I wanted and made everything possible.” It had an element of evolving rather than sticking to a rigid design. This and the oversized electrical system made it possible to integrate previously-unplanned components like 12V air conditioning. The dramatic external look is achieved with a custom wrap, reminiscent of sand coloured military vehicles with a bold contrasting black and orange logo splashed across it. The custom lifted suspension, off-road wheels wrapped in all-terrain tyres, custom fabricated roof rack, ladder, rear box, wheel carrier, snorkel and winch all add to the go-anywhere capability and utility. Some more subtle touches include custom headlights that continue the orange colour theme.

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FIG.1

FI G .2

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FIG.3 ABOVE

FIG.4 BELOW

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Fig.1 The ultra-modern design is more akin to something found on a luxury yacht, rather than in the back of a Sprinter van Fig.2 A wash basin, toilet and shower are incorporated within the brightly lit wet room Fig.3 Brian made sure the entire electrical leisure system was easily serviceable, expertly wired up and finished the job off with some blue LED lighting to illuminate the system Fig.4 A pull out shelf extends the garage space beyond the vans interior. Perfect for working on the bike between rides Fig.5 The Mundolander Sprinter would not have been complete without a Campingaz double burner BBQ, stashed away in the rear lock-box mounted on the back door

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F IG .5

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Finally, there is a full-width awning with custom lighting, a 12V air-conditioning unit, 70-litre fresh and 50-litre grey water tanks, and a 65-litre LPG tank all mounted externally to keep precious internal space free. Inside there are plush custom alcantara touring seats mounted on offset swivels that create a lounge and eating area when turned to face the twin seats for the kids. All cabinetry is 12mm custom phenolic birch hex ply with aluminium inlay and handles imported from the USA. Worktops are solid surfaces and supplied by Brian’s own company. The electrical system employs a DC to DC charger to charge the two 160 Amp-hour Lithium-ion batteries while driving, two 175-Watt solar panels keep things topped up while camping, and a raft of electrical components tie it all together and enable monitoring of the system. These power the air-condition, a 140-litre fridge and 16-litre freezer, and all the lighting and charging ports as well as an upgraded stereo and speaker system. There is gas fired heating and hot water system for the kitchen and the shower room and a cassette toilet providing comfort for the whole family. How it performed “The 12V air con unit has been a massive bonus and I will use it in every overland build moving forward. The fridge is massive and a total luxury! As we are all vegetarian or vegan it was essential. I guess our electrical system was the biggest success. We didn’t

have to even think about consumption and used inverted 240V a lot.” Their last trip to Spain and Portugal was the first for Bri’s wife and kids. Luckily, they all loved it. Apart from the need to top up with fuel, water and restock the fridge, they found they could go for months with this setup. The biggest issue Bri found was having to find somewhere to empty the chemical toilet and to wash clothes. “If we were to make any changes it would be to find a way to build in the two things that limited our duration: a clothes washing capability and an incinerator toilet. We want to be able to go from months to years off grid.” Find out where Bri and his family have been recently instagram.com/theoverlandconversion AM

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Drawing has been a passion of mine since a young age, I rediscovered that interest a few years ago and started DrawnByShaun as a side hobby. Most of my work involves using a black ink line style to represent all aspects of the outdoors and van life. I live in sunny North Devon, England, so inspiration is everywhere. I’ve just finished DIY converting a 2003 VW T4 and will use it to explore the South West coast with my partner and two rescue dogs. Shaun Copp @drawnbyshaun

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P O R FAV O R Words by Alex Brown

Wedged in between a Citroen Jumper motor home circa ‘98 with a French number plate, and a newer VW California from Spain, I am glad that the 5x2m asphalt under my wheels is costing only a little more than €7 per night. And it’s hot, like 34c this morning. It feels like the parking lot is more akin to an oven for baking camper vans rather than a relaxing park up by the sea which I came looking for. Popular destinations, especially beach towns such as Biarritz where I have just arrived, have become unaccepting of the hundreds of camper vans freedom camping all over the place. As a visitor I am respectful of this, more than happy to forgo seeking out a perfect wild beach front parking and use the paid-for aire de camping. Upon arrival, nine times out of ten you’ll be looking for the most comfortable spot tolerable in what is nothing more than a parking lot with no view, no ambience and definitely no charm. This town hall planner does not live the vanlife I can assure you of that. There are mixed reviews about these rest areas. On one hand they are low or no cost options. They are an effort by the local town hall to provide a safe place for moho’s to stand, moving the hoards of white boxes and self-converted builders vans away from a classy broadwalk and back streets lined by yuppie owned second residences. Here we are though and home is where you park it. To make things a little more comfortable I unroll the awning a few turns and open the doors on one side to get some air flow moving through my van. It’s not the first time I’ve been on one of these spots and I still feel conscious of my new neighbours that I have squeezed between, considering those on both sides are just beyond arm’s reach from my bed. Breakfast is on and a deep rumble reverberates across the parking lot. It’s the 40ft Winnebago RV opposite, taking up two extra large bays and half of the one-way street with its pop-out living room. No doubt they’ve fired up the diesel generator to recharge the batteries after running the AC unit, TV and American sized fridge all night. Noticing all of the grown men standing around the aire staring at the bus for 10 minutes in disgust, I can’t help

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“

Act only accord i ng to t hat ma x i m whereby you c a n, at t he sa me t i me, will t hat it shou ld become a u niversa l law - I m ma nuel K a nt

myself much longer. I have to go and say something. The Swedish guy inside tells me he needs it running to cook breakfast, like everyone else is doing right now. Yes mate, but no one else needs to power a fifteen person diner to fry an egg. Buy yourself a campingaz burner? Ten minutes later and the VW next door has started up. I was enjoying some muesli, but the foul smell of an idling engine has started to choke me. I drive the exact same vehicle and I know that these ageing vans are not the lowest co2 emitters out there. It’s scary, but the couple are laying in the back, doors open, feet hanging out. Seeing charging phones in their hands tips me over the edge. Turn your fucking engine off. I don’t want to be that guy in the parking lot, but today I’m going for it. Like leaving a wild camp spot better than you found it, there has to be a few courtesies shared when there are so many vans packed in like sardines such as this. Environmental factors aside, we are all trying to enjoy some good road life. So next time the van beside you has gone beyond the realms of their fair use policy, feel empowered to remind them that their entitlement to freedom should stop at the detriment to those around them. But the most important thing I have learnt from this stopover, is to absolutely enjoy and respect that true wild camp spot the next time I do stop at one.

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SPOTLIGHT ON IRAN

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There is a different form of timekeeping in Persia, or Iran as Westerners know it by today. In the year of 1935 the government of the country requested that those who it shared diplomatic relations with would use the latter name. This could have been at the request of the Iranian ambassador to Germany, who had close relations to the Nazis. The country records time using the Jalaali Calendar, along with neighbouring Afghanistan. Unlike the rule based Gregorian Calendar, the one that most of the World has adopted as the common time and date standard, each year begins on the vernal equinox (in Spring). It is the day on which day and night are of equal length. Since it is observational based, the exact time varies slightly each year.

he modern calendar, Solar Hijri, was legally installed in March 1925. Ancient Persian names were rekindled, and the first six months all contain 31 days. The following five months have 30 days and the last month contains 29 days, or 30 on a leap year. When thinking about the passage of time it is fascinating to know that Persia is one of the oldest inhabited regions on the planet. Discoveries of human presence dates back to around 100,000 years. Nomadic tribes still exist to this day, and the Persians are said to be the Kings of Camping. Venturing far from their home in Andorra, a family of three went East, taking a look for themselves at a country which mainstream media may have successfully kept out of the travel spotlight for many years.

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“Time passes quickly while travelling and without realising it, we had spent three months in Iran. Iran is a huge country which we feel may have a lot left to show us. This trip helped us to understand that the Iranians have nothing to do with what they tell us on Western television. It was presented to us that the government is not the best, and the majority with whom we were able to speak with do not agree with the current regime. The Persians (as they like to be called) are extremely hospitable people and proud of their rich history and culture. They are great travellers of the region where conditions are varied, harsh and testing. Vast areas are covered with little to none vegetation, and unless you know where to find it, water is sparse. Without effort they erect tents, unroll intricate blankets, make fires and prepare traditional food, all of which is usually enjoyed as a family. In the bazaars it was easy to find all kinds of gadgets for outdoor cooking and camping. For three months we had no problems in our Sprinter camper van. On only a couple of nights the police woke us up to ask for passports during routine checks. They were always smiling and very friendly. We loved Iran because of places such as the sacred cities, each one different to the next so it was always interesting. Highlights for us were Qom and Mashhad. Other cities are full of monuments that demonstrate a rich history such as Isfahan, Shiraz or Yazd. All have impressive bazaars, but the one in Isfahan especially stands out, which is one of the largest and most beautiful in the world. Some others are smaller but equally as charming, such as Kashan, an oasis from which legend says that the Three Wise Men left for Bethlehem to take gifts to the baby Jesus. There are also incredible deserts, our favourite being the Lut Desert with its breath-taking formations called Kaluts. These formations made it completely different to other deserts we have found ourselves in. Remarkably, the Lut Desert is considered the hottest place on the planet where temperatures of over 70c have been recorded by NASA. The arid lands are dotted with ‘ab anbar’. These are traditional Persian reservoirs for drinking water used in Iran since ancient times and giving a ‘mystical’ touch to these lands. It was perfect for us, as we had no issues in finding drinking water throughout the entire trip.” José keeps a record of beautiful photography and trip reports on his Instagram @dandovueltas.van and blog www.dandovueltasfotos.com AM

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Kashan, an oasis from which legend says that the Three Wise Men left for Bethlehem to take gifts to the baby Jesus.

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In Persian, “Lut” means bare land without water and devoid of vegetation. Located in south-eastern Iran, the Lut Desert which is widely referred to as Dasht-e Lut, and is also the location with the highest temperatures recorded on earth at 70.7c.

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Surf arriving with the first-light at Sagres, Portugal. @alexbrowndop

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SKOOLIE WAY OF LIFE This is what a home on wheels is really about. School bus platforms come in a wide variety of lengths, offering a considerably bigger liveable space than the typical van does. So how is it to actually convert and live on a 40ft rolling home? We take a look at the Painted Buffalo, the second bus project for artist, mom and skoolie full-timer Jessica. Interview by Alex Brown, answers from Jessica Rambo

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Advanture: The Painted Buffalo Traveling Studio is the first skoolie we have featured in Advanture. Can you tell us what makes living in a bus different to living in a van? Jess: I think there are a few differences between living in a bus versus a van. Our bus is 40ft. long (12.2m), about 300sq. ft. (29m²) of living space. That is significantly larger than most vans you will see. Obviously more square feet equates to more living space and room for things that you wouldn’t have in a van, like art studio space, larger bed areas and room for bunks for the kids. The cons of this is a harder time trying to find parking, fuel costs, and driving skill. I don’t know what it is like in other nomad communities around the world, but there is a cultural difference between bus life and van life people here in North America. The bus life community is very tightly knit here, like an actual small family. What is the skoolie community like? How diverse is the crowd, are there many like minded people out there? Like anything we have been learning about the last few years, there could always be more diversity in ethnicity, culture, and race in all communities. With that said, you will find just about any type of person with all kinds of backgrounds out there in the skoolie community. Doctors, lawyers, active duty military, freelance artists, well paid employees and more are struggling to find their place in the world. I think the thing that is most beautiful about this is, some of my best friends in the community and I have nothing in common besides living in a bus and taking that leap of faith. But the more you get to know each other you realise, all the materialistic things that culture puts on us, is not what is weaving us together in friendship but it is all the other stuff more so. And when it comes to your vehicle, what is the overall specification? Our current bus is a 2001 BlueBird All American TC-2000 with an Allison transmission and Cummins 5.9L engine. This bus is a rear engine model which has its benefits, like noise control, and bigger engine space to work. My 1st bus was the same make and model but had a front engine. It was very loud. Do you need to plan in advance for the locations you visit with a 40ft bus? I do my best pre-planning out the logistics, but I don’t do as much planning as some other rigs out there. To my credit, I make a generic plan of locations, parking, water, fuel, groceries, and all the other stuff and then the rest I just wing. For me, I like to plan where I am headed but I don’t hold as tight to the plan and leave room for change, adventure, and friends to come and go when it fits. There are a

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few concerns people have with having such a large vehicle, and parking seems to be the number one question we get. For us and how I plan, the least of my worries is where to park at night. Here in the United States there are differences between the east and the west coast when it comes to parking, but I think what helps us is we don’t exclude parking spots like truck stops, gas stations, and box stores like Walmart and Home Depot. Once you realise every single day wont look like a beautiful instagram photograph, it gets a little easier to find parking. What sort of adventures do you look for, and how does the bus compliment the lifestyle you choose? In search of the best adventures and bonding with my children has been the guiding light in all of our travel plans that we find ourselves on. This lifestyle has allowed me not only to be more available to my children mentally and physically but has really helped in my mental health recovery and creative journey along the way. I have created studio space on this new bus that has been my go to place when I need a break from the outside world. That was an important feature I knew I needed to make this lifestyle work for us. Does everyone accept your alternative way of living? Over the last few years of building and travelling I have received countless messages, emails, and one on one conversations that have given me credit for inspiring other women, veterans and families to get out on the road and adventure. This lifestyle is not for everyone, there are so many variables individuals have to consider, but what I have to say about creating a life we don’t need a vacation from is this; that it can come from anywhere. You don’t have to live in the world’s smallest home to find that. But you do have to discard the layers of expectation and really focus on the things that actually matter to you. That answer is different for everyone. But for me, focusing less on other people’s opinions and more on what my children and I actually think was key. Shed the layers of expectation, the whole “it’s always been done this way” or the “what will others think of me” narrative and focus on what YOU want for your own life. It’s going to get uncomfortable, but getting comfortable in the uncomfortable is where you will find your growth. How did your needs as an artist influence decisions for the bus conversion? My background is in graphic design but I actually went to art school for sculpture/ ceramics after the military. This was the time I really connected my mental health recovery with manual art making labour. Art making and mindfulness are connected in my life interchangeably and I created a space, not only for my kids and I to create, but also a space for veterans to come and create with us. Ultimately

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I wanted to learn how to do all the making stuff and not have to pick just one lane, so our studio space has just about any type of art making machine that I could make fit. A Glowforge 3D laser printer is a new investment I have put in and has been amazing to use on the road. I had to make some adjustments in solar and power needs to make it work, but it has been really awesome to show artists the capabilities they too have on the road. Tell us a bit about the bus conversion. Did you have an idea of what you wanted to build, and how did you approach this? Building the first bus was a huge growth for my capabilities and learning how to do all aspects of a build. Although I touched every aspect of the build I had a lot of incredible people helping, educating me, and guiding. This second build was all of the things I wanted to change from the first build. Some of this included a larger studio, smaller couches but included an incredible motorised dining table, larger bunk areas and even more custom aspects throughout. How has the decision and experience living on the road, created a better ambience for you leading to a better way of life and mental health state? Living tiny has directed and opened up opportunities for my family we otherwise wouldn’t be able to have. This is all attributed to living the bus life and meeting people on the road. I started our non-profit Painted Buffalo Travelling Studio , which led to our main initiative The Paint Can Project out of looking for my own recovery. The program has grown to help other veterans out there in finding their voice, telling their own stories and getting out on their own adventure. Lastly, could you tell us about the idea to do the topo painting on the exterior. We love it and it looks like it really sets your bus out from the crowd. I got this idea to paint a topographic map on the bus a few years ago, but didn’t have time to do it on the first bus. For this bus I had a few ideas on what I wanted the map to be and look like. I played around with a few ideas like using vinyl but it just didn’t look the way I wanted it to look. So, I peeled it all off and started to hand paint. Over a few nights of friends helping and early morning coffee dates with myself, I walked around the bus and just added lines. Ultimately the map isn’t any specific place, but more a map of my mind. I have a few more ideas on what I wanted to add to the paint but for now, I think it really stands out on its own. I love maps, and have a few displayed from our travels inside the bus. This was a way of tying it all in together. Find out where in North America Jess and her family are @the.painted.buffalo

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@philandlui Camping together with @Hannahliza

Advanture Magazine issue 08 published from Brittany, France. Stories from the road by those who choose to call the road, home. Features in this issue: shaping surfboards in Australia, free diving the Mediterranean, indie artists, tales from 80’s-90’s Britain, Sprinter van outfit, spending time Persia and life on a skoolie. D L B 2 74 7 - 2 0 2 2

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