Climbing in Cornwall Adventure Information Pack by Adventure Eyes

ADVENTURE EYES INFORMATION PACKS date

2011

sport

Climbing

location

Cornwall ✂

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A Quick Word Before you Dive in... Every attempt is made to ensure that the information provided on the Adventure Eyes publications is accurate, however locations and organisations change over time and therefore we cannot be held accountable should details change. Any reliance you place on the information contained on the Adventure Eyes publications is therefore strictly at your own risk. Many of the activities and adventures discussed on the Adventure Eyes publications are by their very nature, potentially dangerous. In choosing to undertake those activities you do so at your own risk. Whilst we actively promote adventures we urge you to ensure that you are appropriately knowledgable and skilled to undertake the activities safely. Alternatively, we recommend that you use an experienced, qualified instructor to help you to develop the initial skills and knowledge required. Now thatʼs said, enjoy reading through this Information Pack and enjoy your adventures in Cornwall!

The Adventure Eyes Team

Contents Introducing Cornwall Travelling Around Climate & Weather Cornwallʼs Classic Crags Accommodation Providers Nearby Climbing Providers, Coaches & Shops Bosigran What & Where Routes & Guidebooks Classics & Whatʼs Nearby Sennen What & Where Routes & Classics Guidebooks & Whatʼs Nearby Chair Ladder What & Where Routes & Classics Guidebooks & Whatʼs Nearby

Cheesewring Quarry What & Where Routes & Classics Guidebooks & Whatʼs Nearby Carn Gowla What & Where Classics, Guidebooks & Whatʼs Nearby Thank you, donations & support Other Publications

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Introducing Cornwall... Soaring granite cliffs, sandy beaches and an enviable laid back atmosphere. Cornwall has soooo much more than just pasties!! (as delicious as they may be). Whilst there are no National Parks in Cornwall, there are 167 Sites of Scientific Interest, 12 areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and some fantastic climbing locations! The beautiful land of Kernow offers a wealth of interesting geological features and in addition to the granite cliffs, tors and formations you will also find sandstones and impressively folded shales. As well as providing useful information about visiting and staying in Cornwall, this Adventure Information Pack covers a selection of Cornwallʼs classic crags that are definitely worthy of inclusion on most climbers ʻvisit listʼ. © Adventure Eyes 2011

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Traveling Around? There are three main road routes into Cornwall: The A39 (The Atlantic Highway), the A30 & the A390. All of them are pleasant enough but be warned, on a sunny day in the summer you will not be the only vehicle desperately trying to head West! The traffic along these roads can be monstrous particularly in the summer holidays. Although it is potentially easier and quicker by car, it is possible to use public transport to get to each of the crags in this Information Pack. You have a number of options if you are planning to head down by train (see the map below) and there is a reasonable bus service connecting the key destinations. For detailed information either visit www.cornwallpublictransport.info or alternatively call Travel Line on Tel: 0871 200 22 33 (calls from a landline cost 10p per min, calls from a mobile will be more).

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Climate?

Checking the Weather?

The south westerly position of Cornwall means on average it enjoys over 1600 sunshine hours a year. However, Cornwall's position also means that it receives the brunt of the South Westerly winds and with the exception of Western Scotland it gets the strongest winds in the UK.

The Adventure Search on AdventureEyes.Com has live forecasts for each of the crags. Alternatively you can call Weathercall (Calls cost 60p per min):

The warmest months are July and August when temperatures average 19 degrees celsius but regularly soar beyond this. As for the winter months, there may be a biting wind but the temperatures rarely fall below freezing. In summary, it can be damp, it can be breezy, but on average Kernow tends to be warmer and sunnier than many places in the UK. Why else would boardies and flip flops be so popular?!

Telephone: 09068 500 404 for the ʻDevon & Cornwallʼ area and then input the following codes: For a telephone weather forecast for the Cheesewring Quarry the code is:4000 For a telephone weather forecast for Carn Gowla the code is: 4044 For a telephone weather forecast for Bosigran, Sennen, and Chair Ladder the code is 4005

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Cornwall’s Classic Crags at a Glance...

The Cheesewring Quarry

Carn Gowla

Bosigran Sennen

Chair Ladder

Chair Ladder: Coastal; Granite; South West Facing; Multi Pitch; Tradʼ, Base accessible by scramble/abseil; A range of grades available.

Sennen: Coastal; Granite; West Facing; Single and some short Multi Pitches; Base accessible by scramble; A range of grades available. © Adventure Eyes 2011

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The Cheesewring Quarry: Inland; Granite; Sheltered; Single Pitch with some short Multi Pitch routes; Tradʼ with some old ʻinsitu gearʼ; Base accessible by path; Range of grades available although opportunities for protection is limited on some; Access needs to be checked beforehand due to bird restrictions. Carn Gowla: Coastal; Greenstone; West facing; Tradʼ with some old ʻinsitu gearʼ; Single and Multi Pitch; Base accessed by scramble and/or abseil; Majority of routes are in the higher grade range. Bosigran: Coastal (non tidal); Granite; West Facing; Multi Pitch; Tradʼ; Base accessible by path; Routes available throughout the grade range.

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Featured Accommodation Providers Near to the Crags Elm Farm Camping Portreath, TR16 5UF Tel: 01209 891498 www.cornwallcycletrails.com accommodation@thebikebarn.org

Gwithian Holiday Suites Gwithian, TR27 5BW Tel: 01736 755 493 www.gwithianholidays.com enquiries@gwithianholidays.com

The Cheesewring Quarry

Carn Gowla

Bosigran Sennen

Sanderling Holiday Cottages Sennen Cove, TR19 7DF Tel: 01625 572 443 Mob: 0785 22 44 504 www.sanderlingcottages.co.uk info@sanderlingcottages.co.uk

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Luxury Cornish Yurts Rosecraddoc, PL14 5AG Tel: 01579 343 896 Mob: 07962 224285 relax@luxurycornishyurts.co.uk www.luxurycornishyurts.co.uk

Pure Holidays Range of Accommodation Options Tel: 01637 852754 www.pure-holidays.co.uk bookings@pure-holidays.co.uk

Chair Ladder

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Featured Climbing Activity Providers, Coaches and Shops Nearby

Adventure International provides activities for individuals, families and groups. Climbing sessions take place at climbing wall and bouldering at the Adventure International centre in Bude. Tel: 0870 7775111 bookings@adventure.uk.com www.adventure.uk.com Salt Air Adventures caters for individuals, families and groups. They provide half or full day climbing sessions available at a range of locations throughout Cornwall. You can also combine a climbing session with a coasteering experience! Tel: 07828 246 278 info@saltair.co.uk www.saltair.co.uk

Pure Holidays provide a wide range of activity options for individuals and groups included full and half day climbing sessions at different locations in Cornwall. Get in touch with them for more information. Tel: 01637 85 27 54 bookings@pure-holidays.co.uk www.pure-holidays.co.uk The Barn Climbing Centre and Shop is based in Milton Abbott, Devon but it is very close to the border with Cornwall and certainly worth a visit if youʼre nearby. They provide indoor climbing, a shop and coaching for individuals and groups. Tel: 01822 870 521 info@barnclimbingwall.co.uk www.barnclimbingwall.co.uk

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Bosigran: Coastal, Granite, West Facing What to Expect? A majestic granite crag that gradually reveals itself as you scramble down and around the approach path. Bosiʼ is a multi pitch haven and there is a grade for pretty much everybody, except perhaps those looking for the monstrous extreme granite experience! A beautiful location, and an absolutely stunning place to climb through to the evening, and then sit on top and watch the sun go down over the Atlantic coast.

Bosigran

Approach Track

Bosiʼ has the beauty and atmosphere of a sea cliff but is situated high enough to avoid being caught by the waves. So climbing is possible throughout all states of the tide. The crag and surrounding area is owned by the National Trust and it is also a SSSI area. There are no fixed restrictions on climbing but, as always, care should be taken during the nesting season (March-July).

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Parking Area

Where is it? Grid Reference for the Crag SW 416 369 Grid Reference for the Car Park SW 421 365 Nearest Post Code TR20 8YX OS Landranger Map: Landʼs End & Isles of Scilly Sheet 203

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What are the routes like? There are over 90 routes on Bosiʼ. Most are multi pitch and all are ʻtradʼ (i.e. no bolts), so a full rack including a range of camming devices would be ideal. Two ropes and/or long extenders are handy on some of the routes to prevent rope drag. Abseiling isnʼt necessary as there are descent paths/scrambles at either end of the crag.

What are the Best Guide Books? For a comprehensive coverage... Climberʼs Club (2000) West Cornwall: Bosigran, Chair Ladder and the Lizard. Climbersʼ Club Guides For a selection of routes in the area... Glaister, M (2010) West Country Climbs. Rockfax OR Littlejohn, P (2002) South West Climbs: A selection of fine rock climbs from Cornwall, Devon, Somerset, Dorset and Jersey. Diadem Books © Adventure Eyes 2011

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Classic Routes? Black Slab D Ochre Slab, Route 2 S (4a) Ding HS (4b) Doorpost HS (4b) Little Brown Jug VS (5a) Zig Zag VS (4c) Ochre Slab, Route 1 VS (4c) Anvil Chorus HVS (4c) Suicide Wall E1 (5c) Bow Wall E2 (5b) The Ghost E3 (5c) Raven Wall E3 (5c) Kafoozalem E3 (6a) Evil Eye E4 (6b)

Whatʼs Nearby? Pub: Gunnardʼs Head Hotel on the B3306 towards St Ives. (1m/1.6km) Cafe: Zennor (2.8m/4.5km) Public Toilets: Zennor (2.8m/4.5km) Hospital with A&E: West Cornwall Hospital, Penzance, TR18 2PF (10.3m/16.6km) Town: St Ives (7.4m/11.9km) Gear Shop: Chapel Idne in Sennen Cove is mainly surf focussed but does sell a few climbing items. (11m/17.7km)

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Sennen: Coastal, Granite, West Facing What to Expect?

Where is it?

If youʼre looking for single pitch, granite classics with a view of the sea and within easy reach of the car, a pint and a pasty, then Sennen should definitely be on the list!

Grid Reference of Crag: SW 347 262 Grid Reference of Car Park : SW 350 263 Nearest Post Code: TR19 7DB OS Landranger Map: Landʼs End & Isles of Scilly Sheet 203

Parking Area

Approach Track Sennen Crag

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What are the Routes Like?

Classic Routes?

There are over 140 routes at here and with the exception of a couple, they are all single pitch. The majority of routes are over 20 metres and all are ʻtradʼ routes, therefore a rack with a selection of camming devices is recommended. There are descent routes to the base of the crag which can be used at all states of the tide (these do involve scrambling so care would be needed with youngsters). Most of the crag is considered to be non tidal but if there is a big swell running, the crag (and anyone there!) can get quite a dramatic drenching! Another warning should perhaps be shared about the grading... Some people find Sennenʼs routes a touch on the ʻstiffʼ side, so when you first go there it is perhaps worth easing into it gently rather than launching on to your max grade.

Corner Climb D Banana Flake VD Double Overhang HS (4b) Vertical Crack HS (4c) Demo route HS (4b) Africa Route VS (5a) Zig Zag HVS (5a) A Swift Flight of Fancy E2 (5c) Golva E2 (5c) Gillian E3 (5c) High Street Blues E4(6a) Superjam E5 (6b) and if you really want to, thereʼs always ʻAmazoniaʼ, which apparently is a poorly protected 3 star, E7 6c... Nice?!

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What are the Best Guidebooks? For a comprehensive coverage... Climberʼs Club (2000) West Cornwall: Bosigran, Chair Ladder and the Lizard. Climbersʼ Club Guides For a selection of routes in the area... Glaister, M (2010) West Country Climbs. Rockfax OR Littlejohn, P (2002) South West Climbs: A selection of fine rock climbs from Cornwall, Devon, Somerset, Dorset and Jersey. Diadem Books

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Whatʼs Nearby? Sennen Cove is a small village but it has a pub, cafes, shops and public toilets. ʻChapel Idneʼ is also based in Sennen Cove (in the Pay & Display car park at the opposite end of the village to the climbing). They are mainly surf focused but they do sell a few climbing items. For those surfer climbers out there, Sennen is ideal... great surf combined with classic climbing! The nearest town is St Just (5.4m/ 8.7km) and the nearest hopsital with an A&E is West Cornwall Hospital, Penzance, TR18 2PF (9.2m/14.8km). There is also a ʻFirstʼ bus service that goes to and from the village. Take the 504 from Penzance and the 501 from Landʼs End.

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Chair Ladder: South West Facing, Coastal, Granite What to Expect? Chair Ladder is a magnificent crag positioned on the southerly 'toe' of Britain. However, her southerly position is not her most notable feature. It is the abundance of atmospheric adventure she has to offer that appeals to most. Her buttresses contain numerous low to mid grade classics, however this should not encourage the delusion of simplicity! If your headed for a day on Chair Ladder then be prepared for a potential adventure.

Parking Area

Approach Track

Where is it? Grid Reference for the Crag: SW 365 216 Grid Reference for the Car Park: SW 371 217 Chair Ladder

Nearest Post Code: TR19 6JP OS Landranger Map: Landʼs End & Isles of Scilly. Sheet 2

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What are the Routes like? There are approximately 130 routes on the various buttresses and walls that form Chair Ladder. The majority of these are multi pitch and will require a full trad rack including a range of camming devices. The crag is tidal and quite complex in terms of route identification, so itʼs definitely worth getting your bearings before you head to the base. There are a number of descent routes but it is possible, and may be preferable for some, to abseil in.

Classic Routes? Flannel Avenue S (4b) Pendulum Chimney S 4b) Terrierʼs Tooth HS (4b) Pegasus HS (4b) South Face Direct VS (4c) The Mitre VS (4c) Seal Slab VS (4c) Diocese VS (5a) Private Performance HVS (5a) Midnight Runner E1 (5b) Bishopʼs Rib E1 (5b) The Spire E3 (5c)

The base of most parts of the crag can be reached for about three hours either side of low water, after this the waves can start chasing your heels adding to the excitement and atmosphere of one of Cornwallʼs premier climbing spots.

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What are the Best Guidebooks? For a comprehensive guide: Climberʼs Club (2000) West Cornwall: Bosigran, Chair Ladder and the Lizard. Climbersʼ Club Guides For details of selected routes from the area: Glaister, M (2010) West Country Climbs. Rockfax Littlejohn, P (2002) South West Climbs: A selection of fine rock climbs from Cornwall, Devon, Somerset, Dorset and Jersey.Diadem Books

Whatʼs Nearby? Pub: The Logan Rock Inn, Treen, TR19 6LG (2.8m/4.5km) Public Toilets: Porthgwarra (0miles) Cafe: Porthgwarra (0miles) Hopsital with an A&E: West Cornwall Hospital, Penzance, TR18 2PF (10.4m/16.7km) Beach & Surf: Porthcurno (2.7m/4.3km) Gear Shop: ʻChapel Idneʻ based in Sennen Cove, TR19 7BT (4.4m/7.1km). They are mainly surf focused but they do sell a few climbing items. Page 9b © Adventure Eyes 2011

The Cheesewring Quarry: Inland, Granite, South East & West facing What to Expect? The Cheesewring Quarry may be granite, but beyond this it shares little in common with the other key crags in Cornwall. Perhaps unsurprisingly, the impact of human intervention is clear throughout, both in terms of the venue and the routes. Whilst it may not have the atmosphere or classic crag status of Chair Ladder and others, there are some worthwhile routes here. The quarry can be easily accessed along a level track (10-15mins walk) and the enclosed nature of the quarry can also provide quite a sheltered sun trap when the wind is blowing elsewhere!

The Cheesewring Quarry

Approach Track

Where is it? The quarry is approximately 1km North of Minions Village. Grid Reference: SW 256 729 Nearest Post Code: PL14 5LL OS Landranger Map: Plymouth & Launceston Sheet 201

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Parking Area Minions Village

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What are the Routes Like? There are just over 100 single and multi pitch routes at the Cheesewring of differing grades, quality and levels of protection. There is some insitu gear but a rack is still necessary, itʼs also worth bearing in mind that protection is pretty sparse on some of them, so their appeal may be dependent on your desire for potentially marginal gear and long run outs! Hawkenʼs guidebook provides handy details on the levels of protection on routes, so it lets you know in advance if youʼre planning to head up a ʻno protectionʼ wonder or one thatʼs ʻadequateʼ!

Classic Routes? Purple Revrac HS 4b Direct Route VS 4c Central Route VS 4c Nocturne HVS 5a Central Corner HVS 5b Simanon Direct HVS 4c Khyber Wall E2 5c Eyeful Tower E2 6a Warrior F6c+ / E3 5c Double Agent F7a / E46a Rampage F7b E5 6b Mauritius E5 6b/c F7b Psychokiller E6 6c F7c+

If youʼre planning to visit the quarry, check out the BMC Regional Access Database first as a peregrine falcon has recently been spotted nesting there so climbing is under date restrictions.

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What are the Best Guide Books? For comprehensive coverage... Hawken, S. (1998) Cheesewring & South East Cornwall: A Climbersʼ Guide.St Ives Printing & Publishing Company (You will need to hunt down a second hand copy of this as it is currently out of print) For a selection of routes in the area... Glaister, M (2010) West Country Climbs. Rockfax

Whatʼs Nearby? Thereʼs free parking on the edge of Minions village, which is small but has various facilities, including public toilets, and places to eat and drink. The nearest hospital with an Accident and Emergency Department is Derriford Hospital in Plymouth, PL6 8DH (24.2m/38.9km) away. The Cotswold shop in Plymouth and the Barn Climbing Wall in Milton Abbott are your nearest options in terms of buying climbing kit.

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Carn Gowla: Coastal, Greenstone, West Facing What to Expect? Carn Gowla is made up of a number of cliffs located on the Atlantic coastline near to St Agnes. There are numerous single and multi pitch routes here, the majority of which are in the higher grades. In terms of protection, you will find insitu gear but this certainly cannot be relied upon. Similarly, for those who would rather not abseil off the ominous looking stakes at the top it is possible to scramble to the base of the cliffs. There are some classic routes here but climbing at Carn Gowla has a slightly foreboding reputation, whether this is justified is perhaps for you to find out, but needless to say, the challenges of reaching and ascending the routes here are not to be underestimated.

Carn Gowla

Where is it? Grid Ref SW 698 512 Nearest Post Code TR5 ONU OS Landranger Map: Truro & Falmouth Sheet 204

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What are the Best Guide Books?

Classic Routes?

For a comprehensive coverage... Hope,D., & Wilkinson, B. (2000) North Devon and Cornwall. Climbersʼ Club Guide

Journey to Ixtlan HVS (4c) Crystal Voyage E1 (5a) A Sackful of Clowns E1 (5b) Mecury Direct E2 (5b) The Tomb E2 (5b) Mausoleum E3 (5b) The Awakening E3 (5c) Rainbow Games E2 (5b) America E4 (5c) Guernica E6 (6b)

Alternatively, for a selection of routes in the area... Littlejohn, P (2002) South West Climbs: A selection of fine rock climbs from Cornwall, Devon, Somerset, Dorset and Jersey. Diadem Books OR Glaister, M (2010) West Country Climbs. Rockfax

Whatʼs Nearby? St Agnes is less than 2miles away and has a number of pubs, cafes, shops and restaurants. There are also public toilets there. The nearest hospital with an A & E is the Royal Cornwall Hospital (Treliske) Truro, Cornwall, TR1 3LJ (8.1m/13km). Truro is also home to Penrose Outdoors (TR1 2HJ), the largest gear shop in the area.

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Thank you...

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Just a few of the other Information Packs that are on their Way... Kite Sports in Cornwall-Surfing in Cornwall-Walking in Cornwall-Biking in Cornwall-Climbing in Devon Page 13b © Adventure Eyes 2011