all quieter (& cheaper!) on the eastern front LIKE THE SOUND OF EMPTY BLACK RUNS, A$50 DAY PASSES, A$10 BEER & FOOT LONG SAUSAGE LUNCHES, PLUS CHARACTER AND HISTORY IN SPADES? THEN READ ON, DAVE WINDSOR HAS A THIRSTY SKIER’S GUIDE TO SKIING THE CZECH REPUBLIC AND A BIT OF NEIGHBOURING POLAND TOO. The ‘Giant Mountains’ that divide the regions of Bohemia, Czechia and Silesia, Poland (Krkonoše in Czech or Karkonosze in Polish) are giant by name, but not by nature - when compared to the Alps, Rockies or Andes. The topography and views of and from them are comparable to Victoria – serene, picturesque, rural and max out at 1,603 metres. Unlike Victoria, they are home to scores of ski areas, and they certainly make the most of what mother nature has provided. Last visit in 2020, a lack of snow had us skiing Austria instead. This time, leaving in mid-January with my Polish-Aussie mates Andrzej and Marek, I thought we might suffer a similar fate. But the cold and snow finally arrived. Our Eastern Euro roadie was saved by 40-90cm of natural snow,,which had lifts, snow guns and runs firing – particularly on the Czech side of the border. From Andrzej’s delightful holiday house in the forest above the Polish tourist town of Szklarska Paręba, the Czech border was just 15 minutes away. Handy! We bundled into his trusty Skoda Octavia and headed north, south, west and east, hitting seven ski areas (One Polish and six Czech), driving about 750 kilometres direct to and fro, plus a few hundred sightseeing kilometres too. “The resorts in Czechia are very well appointed, staff are sympathetic and they have plenty to offer,” says Marek, “I advise everyone to ski in Czech.” The language barrier was a little challenging. But a smile, my Polish mates and google translate helped. Consistently freezing temps kept the snow as crisp, stable and chalky as anywhere I have ever skied. Hourly to multi-ride to multi-day tickets are available at most areas, and some even have weird point
systems that I didn’t bother with. Buying/topping up online can save you a few bucks, so it’s worth doing a bit of research before heading out. Getting around was extremely easy once we navigated our way through the frozen narrow streets of Szklarska and hit the open roads. All roads were cleared, well signed, and in excellent condition, leading directly to slopeside car parks of varying size and condition. Some are free, or otherwise cheap at A$5-7 per day. Skiing aside, we also took in the sites, visiting terrific towns and cities such as Görlitz in Germany, Jelenia Gora and Wrocław in Poland, and the Czech capital Prague. Prague is the prime reason the skiing in these parts is so plentiful. It’s an easy two-three-hour drive via the quick D10 Motorway (130km/h limit) to get to the foothills. Plenty of billboards promote the coaches to and from Prague for day trippers and holiday makers to hit the likes of Harrachov, Rokytnice, Černá Hora-Pec and Špindlerův Mlýn. If you’re not as lucky to have a mate with a car and holiday home then there is tons of accommodation in Poland’s Sklarska area for rent, including a brand spanking new Radisson. Alternatively, you could lodge across the border in neighbouring Harrachov, Czechia, which not only has its own ski area but sits at the crossroads between Prague (two hours south) and the dozens of ski areas in this neck of the woods. Hiring a car is best to explore at your own pace. Take in the sights on weekends when ski fields tend to be crowded. Aussies can stay 90 days in 180 in Schengen area countries, driving passport free across the borders just like the locals. SNOWACTION.COM.AU
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