Good G R A C I O U S
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Summer 2021
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Compliments of
Embracing ethnicity full page Fabulous salads for summer dining
Cooking oils, demystified What's healthier? What's not?
High spirits on the Rock Newfoundland Distillery's local flavours
For the seafood lovers Grilling fish just got easier with our Fresh Atlantic Salmon Cedar Plank Kit with your choice of dill, maple chipotle or honey Dijon glaze.
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Embracing ethnicity Fabulous salads with cultural flare
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These tasty morsels are turning heads and winning fans
The non-mobile food truck
by Alain Bossé
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High spirits from The Rock Unique local flavours make great sipping by Alain Bossé
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Out and about More than just great chowder by Alain Bossé
Local hot spot by Alain Bossé
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Cooking oils, demystified Everything you need to know about the best oils for cooking by Maureen Tilley, PDt.
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One family, three farms
BIGSTOCK/MILKOS
Coldwater shrimp, anyone?
The LeBlancs of Margaree by P.J. Wall
Good Taste is a special insert in Saltscapes magazine, published by Metro Guide Publishing, 2882 Gottingen Street, Halifax, NS B3K 3E2. Tel: 902- 464-7258, Sales Toll Free: 1-877-311-5877 Contents copyright 2020/2021. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent of the publisher. PRINTED IN CANADA.
STEVE SMITH/ VISIONFIRE
by Alain Bossé
COURTESY OF POINT PRIME CHOWDER HOUSE
STEVE SMITH/VISIONFIRE
STEVE SMITH/ VISIONFIRE
G R A C I O U S
L I V I N G
Summer 2021
O N
T H E
E A S T
C O A S T
Compliments of
Embracing ethnicity Fabulous salads for summer dining
Cooking oils, demystified What's healthier? What's not?
High spirits on the Rock Newfoundland Distillery's local flavours
On our cover: Refreshing summer salads to try. Photo by Steve Smith/VisionFire
GOOD IS IN EVERY ® BLUE DIAMOND ALMOND Almonds are packed with nutritional goodness and make snacking fun with popular flavors. • PEANUT FREE • PRODUCT OF CALIFORNIA
© 2015 Blue Diamond Growers. All rights reserved.
DOWNHOME RECIPES
Embracing ethnicity in foods There’s more to ethnic meals than chicken balls and Singapore Slings Story by Alain Bossé Photography by Steve Smith/VisionFire
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grew up in a small town, and the only exposure that I had to ethnic food was fried chicken balls and egg rolls at our local Chinese restaurant. It seemed so exotic and foreign and I couldn’t get enough of it! Eating it made me feel worldly and very grown up. The restaurant was moody and dark; it was all reds and blacks with mysterious gold symbols on the walls and dragons with colourful tassels on the counter. When I turned 19, I was able to add another ethnic experience to my meal; our Chinese restaurant specialized in Singapore Slings! If chicken balls made me feel worldly, then that fruity pink drink with gin and cherry brandy floating on top made me feel a sophistication that was until then unbeknownst to me. The somewhat senior version of me looks
back on these memories with fondness—mingled with a slight bit of embarrassment at my own naivety. How things have changed in the past 20-30 years. We are so fortunate to live in an area that embraces multi-culturalism and the foods that come from those amazing cultures; we celebrate it with food festivals, we seek it out at little mom and pop restaurants, and we do our best to recreate dishes in our homes. Atlantic Canadians have enthusiastically embraced many ethnic foods; our favourites as a region include Chinese, Italian, South Asian, Thai and Mexican cuisines, among others. Our own children grew up eating Pho soup, a Vietnamese street food that feeds the body and soul; grilled octopus in a rich tomato broth was a favourite; and they always looked forward to a meal of moussaka or spicy curry. And while it helped that Dad was a chef and a foodie, these certainly weren’t foods that were unavailable to the mainstream population, if they wanted to and chose to seek them out.
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Recreating these meals at home has never been easier. Ingredients that were difficult to get in the past can now be found in the international sections of most grocery stores, and ethnic grocers have become much less mysterious and are welcoming to people of all races. For me any trip to Halifax isn’t complete without a trip to my favourite Asian grocer, Tian Phat, located in Bedford, where I spend hours wandering the aisles, sourcing what I know and educating myself on new products. The internet and television have also brought ethnic food into the mainstream; although I do remember watching Wok with Yan as a child, at that time it was well over my head.
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DOWNHOME RECIPES
East Indian Spicy Cucumber Salad Serves 4
6 mini English cucumbers, cubed 12 cherry tomatoes, diced 1 serrano pepper, diced ½ tsp (5 mL) chili pepper flakes ¼ cup (50 mL) unsalted peanuts, roasted ¼ cup (50 mL) unsweetened coconut, shredded 2 tbsp (30 mL) coconut oil 2 limes, juice only 2 tbsp (30 mL) maple syrup 1 ½ tsp (7 mL grainy mustard 1 tbsp (30 mL) cumin seeds 3 sprigs cilantro, chopped 2 sprigs mint, chopped 1 tsp (5 mL) sea salt In a medium size bowl mix cucumber, tomato and serrano peppers and toss; add coconut oil, lime juice, cumin seeds, salt, grainy mustard and maple, toss till well incorporated then add coconut, peanuts and herbs and spices. Toss again and let rest in refrigerator for 30 min to one hour before serving.
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DOWNHOME RECIPES
I think it bears mentioning that the foods that many of us recognize as being truly ethnic, especially in some restaurants, have been modified for a North American palate. I urge you to seek out chefs that specialize in true authentic foods from their respective countries.
If you would like to try your hand at dishes that are inspired by the diversity of other countries, you do not have to delve headfirst in making Peking duck; start simple with dishes that use easier to find ingredients that produce a delicious yet easily palatable flavour, such as a
tabbouleh salad. Perhaps try the salads that we’ve shared here. Who knows, if you’re new to ethnic foods you may just end up experiencing that sophisticated, other worldly feeling felt by a certain teenager in a Chinese restaurant a long time ago.
Mexican Black Bean Salad Serves 4
1 1 1 1 ¼ cup (50 mL) 1 2 tbsp (30 mL) 2 tsp (10 mL) 3 1 tsp (5 mL) ½ tsp (2 mL)
can black beans, rinsed can corn niblets tomato, diced avocado, diced red onions, diced jalapeno, diced fresh cilantro, chopped cumin limes, juice only coarse sea salt pepper
In a medium size bowl add corn niblets, black beans, red onions, hot pepper and tomatoes. Toss lightly then add avocado, cilantro, cumin, lime juice salt and pepper; fold in and serve.
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DOWNHOME RECIPES
Moroccan Chickpea Salad Serves 4
2 X 14oz (398 mL) can chickpeas, rinsed ¼ cup (50 mL) red onions, diced 2 cloves garlic ¼ cup (50 mL) golden raisins, chopped 2 lemons, juice only 2 tbsp (30 mL) soya sauce 1 tsp (5 mL) cumin 1 tsp (5 mL) sweet smoked paprika ½ tsp (2 mL) cinnamon 1 cup (250 mL) baby spinach, chopped 2 tbsp (30 mL) parsley, chopped ½ cup (125 mL) coconut yogurt ¼ cup (50 mL) pistachios, chopped *If you have it, the salad is even better served with pomegranate molasses on the side. In a good-size bowl mix chickpeas, red onions, garlic, golden raisins, soya sauce and lemon juice. Then toss; once combined, add herbs and spices then retoss and refrigerate until ready to serve. Before serving, add yogurt in the centre and top with pistachios.
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G R A C I O U S
Feron Kitchen Inc 110 Chain Lake Dr., Unit 31 Halifax, NS (902) 450-5144 • 1-800-565-4044 dferon@feronkitchens.com
MacArthur Appliances Inc 96 Mount Edward Rd. Charlottetown, PEI (902) 368-2200 macarthur@macarthurapp.pe.ca
Wildwood Cabinets 400 Collishaw St. Moncton, NB (506) 858-9219 info@wildwoodindustries.com
Creative Appliance Gallery 560 Windmill Rd. – Suite 202 Dartmouth, NS (902) 481-3313 info@creativeappliance.ca
Dave’s Appliance 1 Sandy Point Rd. Saint John, NB (506) 634-1888 sales@davesappliance.ca
Davidson Food Equipment 1245 Hanwell Rd. Fredericton, NB (506) 450-4994 ross@davidsonfoodequipment.com
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PRODUCER TO PLATE
Coldwater shrimp, anyone? Delicious and versatile, perfect for summer meals By Alain Bossé Photography by Steve Smith/VisionFire
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PRODUCER TO PLATE
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roduits Belle Baie limitée is a company that has faced its share of challenges, and in true Atlantic fashion has survived to tell the tales. Belle Baie has been in business for more than 50 years, having started operations in 1969 in Caraquet, NB where they opened their snow crab meat processing plant with 125 employees. In 1970, they diversified their operations and added a shrimp (coldwater) cooking and peeling processing department. In 1971, a production line for ground fish was added and in 1977, Belle Baie opened its new cold storage facility with a holding capacity of 3 million pounds. This cold storage building also houses a modern filleting production line for herring and alewives (gaspereaux). By 1983, 725 employees were working for Belle Baie, processing seafood supplied by 27 local boats employing 97 fishermen. Given the challenges in securing crab supplies due to fierce competition in raw material costs, Belle Baie had to rationalize its production lines. In the 90s, the federal government closed various ground fish fisheries in the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Within a few years, access to cod, redfish (ocean perch) and other species were unavailable due to conservation purposes. This left no alternative to Belle Baie but to focus their attention on herring and coldwater (northern) shrimp. Today, Belle Baie is active in coldwater shrimp and herring processing with their products being sold in Asia, Europe and North America. Ironically, the biggest G R A C I O U S
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challenge for the company nowadays is to find a way to sell the benefits of eating coldwater shrimp to the Maritimes and the rest of Canada. Belle Baie concentrates their efforts on processing the Pandalus borealis shrimp which is the Latin name of the Canadian coldwater shrimp, also known as Nordic shrimp or pink shrimp. The shrimp are caught mostly in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, at a depth of 200 to 500 metres, in icy cold and pristine waters. They are also found in other parts of the Atlantic and Arctic oceans. They grow very slowly and can live five to eight years, feeding on zooplankton near the ocean floor. Once the shrimp have been harvested, they are processed at the plant, which is still located in Caraquet. These shrimp are 100 per cent wild caught and 100 per cent locally produced. Pandalus borealis is not a shrimp species that can be cultivated or farm raised. Before COVID-19, Belle Baie was exporting about 90 per cent of its shrimp production to Europe, Asia and USA. The remaining 10 per cent was sold on Canadian markets. Nowadays, due to COVID-19, most of their product is sold within Canada. In season, Belle Baie offers fresh and frozen shrimp. The also pack the seafood in brine, fresh or frozen. Their products can be found at various grocers and independent retailers and fish stores in New Brunswick. The company plans to expand into the entire Atlantic region, as well as developing an online shop in the near future. E A S T
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2021 Saltscapes Recipe Contest Every year, Saltscapes magazine invites readers to enter a recipe contest. The theme for the 2021 edition is an East Coast Saltbox 3-Ingredient Challenge! This year, we wanted to make the recipe contest especially easy for the cook. No need to get fancy or complex. What can you make that tastes delicious with a handful of all local ingredients? Here is a list of our 2021 made/grown right here ingredients (you must include 3 from this mandatory list) and whatever other ingredients you wish in your recipe submission: •
Wild Blueberries
•
Smoked or Fresh Salmon
•
Craft Beer
•
Cheese
•
Maple
Great taste, creativity, and uniqueness are all appreciated. Submit your recipe and a photo for a chance to win!
Enter to Win! GRAND PRIZE A dishwasher from Bosch, featuring European design that blends in seamlessly to any kitchen style. Retail price: $1999.00 BOSCH-HOME.CA
1st PRIZE
2nd PRIZE
3rd PRIZE
$500 in gift cards ($250 each from Comeau Seafoods & Sobeys)
$250 in gift cards ($125 each from Sobeys and Comeau Seafoods)
$125 Sobeys gift card
Winners will appear in the Feb/March 2022 edition of Saltscapes
COMEAUSEA.COM
SOBEYS.CA
Entries must be yours, original, and unpublished. Amateur cooks only, please. One recipe per person. All entries become the property of Advocate Media, which reserves all rights to the material to avoid duplication in other publications.
Recipe Contest Deadline: October 31, 2021 Go to saltscapes.com for prizes, updates, and full contest rules.
PRODUCER TO PLATE
Belle Baie Coldwater Shrimp Fried Rice Serves 2-4
2 tsp (10 mL) sesame oil ¼ red onion, very finely diced ½ large carrot, finely diced ¼ cup (50 mL) green peppers, finely diced 1 pound (500 g) coldwater shrimp 1 egg, slightly beaten 1 tsp (5 mL) fresh dill Salt and pepper to taste 1 cup (250 mL) frozen peas 2 cups (500 mL) long grain rice (already cooked) 1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh lime juice ¼ cup (50 mL) soya sauce 2 green onions, chopped Place sesame oil into a large skillet and heat until very hot—the oil will start to shimmer. Add onions, carrots and peppers and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Push vegetables to the side and add egg, stirring quickly. Once egg has reached a scrambled consistency stir in with vegetable, add salt and pepper along with dill. Add peas and hot rice and stir to combine, add cold water shrimp, lime juice and a quarter cup of soya sauce. Taste and adjust salt, pepper and soya sauce to liking. Top with green onions and serve.
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PRODUCER TO PLATE
Belle Baie Coldwater Shrimp Naan Pizza Serves 2
2 X 8 inch fresh naan bread 1 tbsp (15 mL) butter ½ cup (125 mL) Maple Tomato Basil Chutney (see recipe below) 3/4 pound (300 g) coldwater shrimps 1 small red onion, julienne 4 oz (125 g) sliced fresh mushrooms 2 tbsp (30 mL) cilantro chopped 1 fresh mozzarella ball sliced 1 tsp (5 mL) caraway, crushed 1 tsp (5 mL) oregano arugula sea salt molasses *Pre heat oven and pizza stone at 400°F (205°C). To assemble brush naan bread with melted butter, add a generous portion of Maple Tomato Basil Chutney, add shrimp, red onions and mushrooms. Sprinkle with herbs and top with mozzarella ,and bake in a 400°F (205°C) oven for 8 to 10 min on a pizza stone. Cut in desired pieces and finish with arugula, a drizzle of molasses and a pinch of coarse sea salt.
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Kingsbrae Arms: luxury boutique inn Located In St Andrews by-the-sea!
"Come, enjoy and linger longer!"
Add a pinch of White Point.
The recipe for whipping up a satisfying batch of ‘happy’ begins with a big bowl – preferably filled with fresh local mussels. To this we add salt air, water sports, and a little smoke from the evening bonfire. Mix in nightly live entertainment, pair it with a glass of Tidal Bay, and chill for a few hours. This timeless recipe serves one, or an entire clan of beach lovers... and it’s a provincial favourite!
Enjoy 30% discount on stays for 2 nights or longer booked through our site! Includes a full luxury breakfast. Grand mansion built in 1897, each room is uniquely decorated with old world charm. Balconies, fireplaces, jacuzzi tubs and king beds available.
Maple Tomato Basil Chutney
ds
ki er d 5 & unt
ea free!
www.kingsbrae.com
1.800.565.5068 whitepoint.com
Makes 2 cups (500 mL)
2 cups (500 mL) grape tomatoes, diced 2 cups (500 mL) yellow onions, diced 1 jalapeno pepper, deseeded and chopped 1 tbsp (30 mL) butter ¾ cup (175 mL) apple cider vinegar 1 tsp (5 mL) Dijon mustard ¾ cup (175 mL) brown sugar ¼ cup (50 mL) maple syrup In a large sauté pan melt butter then add onions, jalapeno pepper, and tomatoes. Sauté for 3 minutes, deglaze pan with apple cider vinegar and Dijon mustard for a few more minutes, then add brown sugar and maple. Let simmer for 30 or 35 minutes on low heat, stirring occasionally until you have a jamlike consistency. Cool, then place in a jar and refrigerate.
SOME GOOD: SWEET TREATS
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An extra helping of delicious recipes to delight everyone at your dinner table.
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A whole new way of thinking about Newfoundland food.
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YOUR COOKBOOKS ARE HERE
WWW.BREAKWATERBOOKS.COM G R A C I O U S
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DRINKS
High spirits from the Rock
Unique local flavours make great sipping By Alain Bossé Photography by Steve Smith/VisionFire
“They say the closer you get to sea level, the better the distillation process.” The Newfoundland Distillery Company facility can be found hugging the shores of Clarke’s Beach, overlooking the stunning vistas of Conception Bay. Clarke’s Beach has long been a favoured retirement area for Newfoundlanders and come-from-aways alike. However, for friends William Carter and Peter Wilkins, it was less about winding down and more about winding up.
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William (aka Bill) had been working as a very successful Cordon Blue-trained chef in Ottawa for the previous 20plus years. It was an auspicious career that included cooking for three former American presidents. Peter was no slouch himself. He had enjoyed a very interesting career that involved world travel, exploring cultural approaches to alcohol for British television. Peter also happens to be a renowned artist whose works have been
exhibited internationally. Creativity is certainly not lacking from their business partnership. When Bill decided to return to Newfoundland, he did so with a plan to make whiskey. He asked Peter if he would like to team up and Peter was more than enthused; however he also recognized that it would take three years to properly age their whiskey, so he asked Bill if he knew how to make gin—which he did. It was fantastic—so fantastic that to their
DRINKS
NL Distillery Salty Seaman
surprise, they ended up building and running a distillery! Peter and Bill began Newfoundland Distillery Company in 2016 and produced their first salable product, a vodka, in May of 2017. Their line of products has continued to expand to now include gin, rum and aquavit; and in a full-circle moment from that original discussion, the pair laid Newfoundland’s first barrels of whiskey in 2020. The distillery has won numerous awards for its products, which draw on many local flavours; they use juniper and botanicals that are picked locally, as well as interesting ingredients such as chaga mushrooms in their rum (a product that won them best spiced rum in Canada). This dedication to unique local flavours including cloudberries (bakeapples) and partridgeberries has set them apart from everyone else. They are also the first craft distillery in Newfoundland to use locallygrown barley as a base. The most popular items the team produces are their Seaweed Gin and the Gunpowder and Rose Rum; although they feel that the rum may surge ahead as it is now available in Quebec and Ontario. The entire range of products are available through the Newfoundland and Labrador Liquor Corporation; the Seaweed Gin and Gunpowder and Rose Rum will be in NS soon, with expansion into New Brunswick and PEI in the near future. We asked Peter what he hopes the future for the Newfoundland Distilling Company looks like. “We hope it looks bright!” he says. “We’ve been very lucky and have been growing steadily each year and entering new markets. Last year was Alberta and Quebec. This year we are now in Ontario, and this summer we should also be in the UK. We love what we’re doing and the idea of lifting people’s spirits up with some very fine spirits. “Most of all we want to ensure people will enjoy our spirits and the only way we can really do that is by making sure the tasting and sampling of the spirits make us happy. Then we hope everyone agrees with us!” G R A C I O U S
Servings: 1 Drink
2 oz (57 mL) ¾ oz (24 mL) ¼ oz (7 mL) ½ oz (14 mL)
Seaweed Gin lime juice lemon juice simple syrup Dash Seaweed and Nettle Bitters Pinch of salt
Add ice to a shaker and pour over the Seaweed Gin, salt, lemon juice, lime juice, and simple syrup. Shake well for no more than 10 seconds, and strain into a chilled glass. Drop in a dash of Seaweed and Nettle Bitters, garnish with a lime and enjoy!
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NEW Follow these simple steps to grill your Fresh Atlantic Salmon Cedar Plank Kit Soak Compliments cedar plank in water for 30 min. While plank soaks, place fish in large baking dish or on platter. Pour choice of marinade (honey Dijon, maple chipotle or dill) over fish, if using. Cover and chill. To grill, place plank on barbecue over direct heat at medium level, about 180°C to 200°C (350°F to 400°F). When wood begins to lightly smoke, place marinated fish, skin side down, onto plank. Close lid. Cook, checking occasionally, until fish turns opaque, flakes easily with fork and reaches its ideal internal temperature of 70°C (158°F), 10 to
12 min. Plank will char. Have metal baking sheet handy: Once fish is cooked, transfer entire plank (with fish) to pan and let rest for 10 min. before serving. Slide metal spatula between skin and flesh, if you like. Lift to plate fillet and enjoy. For more grill-worthy tips and tricks, visit us at: www.sobeys.com/summer
DRINKS
NL Distillery Minty Moscow Mule Servings: 1
1 ½ oz (42 mL) ½ oz (14 mL) 2 oz (57 mL)
vodka lime juice ginger beer fresh mint
Fill a tumbler with ice. Add all ingredients and stir gently. Garnish with a lime slice and mint. Enjoy!
NL Distillery Dark & Stormy Servings: 1
1 ½ oz (42 g) ½ oz (14 mL) 2 oz (57 mL)
Gunpowder & Rose Rum lime juice ginger beer
Fill tumbler with ice. Add rum, lime juice, and top with ginger beer. Stir gently, garnish with a lime slice and enjoy!
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More than just great chowder A visit to a local favourite By Alain Bossé
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Owners Paul and Karen Lavender relocated to the island after deciding on a career change; after 32 years of being chef and owner of several restaurants in Windsor and Georgian Bay they opted for a more seasonal career that would allow for travel during the winter months. When they discovered the Point Prim property, they knew that it was exactly what they were looking for. Their friends and family, however, were less convinced. To say that the project has been a labour of love would be an understatement. What started out as a takeout stand for lobster rolls and chowders has, over the past eight years, become a well-known seasonal seafood restaurant and chef Paul is once again back in the kitchen doing what he loves. The menu relies on fresh seafood and produce to create succulent seafood
TOURISM PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND
here are so many reasons to visit Point Prim Chowder House, that it’s honestly hard to know just where to begin. Situated on the most easterly peninsula of Prince Edward Island in Belfast, and only 10 minutes from the NS/PEI ferry, the chowder house makes its home in a former Irish moss-drying shack. As if that wasn’t quaint enough the chowder house also happens to be situated next to the island’s oldest lighthouse which also happens to be Canada’s only circular brick lighthouse. Are you intrigued yet? The restaurant is located at the end of a red dirt road at the very tip of Point Prim—if you happen to go in the late spring, the lupins are glorious. Wonderful natural scenery surrounds you as you dine along the shore of Point Prim Beach.
COURTESY OF POINT PRIME CHOWDER HOUSE
OUT & ABOUT
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dishes such as their famous Steamer Pot, brimming with mussels, clams, shrimp, haddock and lobster tails all steamed in a rich tomato broth. If you’re looking for lighter fare you might try the butterpoached lobster roll, or their famous chowder that is rich in scallops, shrimp and smoked haddock. If seafood isn’t your thing, you mustn’t let that stop you from taking in this fabulous spot. Chef Paul offers wonderful non-seafood items such as Chili Corn Chowder, Smoked Turkey and Swiss Panini or his delicious Buddha Bowls. Most menu items can be made glutenfree and vegetarian options are available as well. The restaurant is also fully licensed and offers a selection of local craft beers, wines and cocktails to accompany your meal. The Moonshine Mojito comes highly recommended! Point Prim Chowder House is seasonal and is operational daily from June 21 to September 30. They open at 12pm and respectfully ask that all orders be placed by 6pm. While the building itself houses the kitchen all restaurant seating is al fresco on a lovely oceanside patio, so it’s important to dress for the weather. I would like to note that this is not just a takeout window operation; (although take out is available) despite being outdoors, full table service is offered. Besides, with the gorgeous views offered and ocean as far as the eye can see, would you really want to be indoors? Reservations for dining are limited, walk-ins are welcomed and pets are always met with a friendly greeting. Located at 2150 Point Prim Road, Belfast, PEI; website chowderhouse. online; phone (902) 659-2187.
LOCAL HOT SPOT
The non-mobile food truck Finny’s offers great food on Cape Sable Island
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that since they sell a lot of seafood, she decided to change the name slightly, so it became Finny’s on Route 330. They still say “Route 330” when people call in their orders and their sign says they serve “Hook’n good food.” There are several popular dishes that always sell out quickly on the days that they’re open. The Donair Poutine (nicknamed Big Much Chucka) is a big seller; the Seastar Ringer burger is their most popular burger; of course their fresh seafood is popular with everyone. They also serve a regular battered fish but also offer a “Beaver Dam” style which is a puffy batter like a beer batter and is always in demand. One of Leslie’s passions is creating new burgers. You can choose a Donair Burger, a Big Dill burger for the dill pickle aficionados, or that popular Seastar burger topped with onion rings. Last year she introduced the Big Finn burger, which features deep fried haddock, onion rings, bacon, cheese and tartar sauce on a bun.
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If you’re not a fan of burgers, you can opt for a Philly Cheesesteak, several chicken dishes as well as fish or donair tacos, a salad plate and an extensive list of sides and extras. Like many other restaurant operators in rural areas Leslie said that getting supplies can be a bit of a challenge but the support from the local community has been amazing. Finny’s Route 330 is open Wednesday to Sunday, 11am to 7pm and is located on Main Street in Clark’s Harbour on Cape Sable Island, (across from the West Head wharf). The food truck is seasonal; operating from May until October and their phone number is 902-745-0930. Visit the Facebook Group Route 330 Takeout Finny’s for a full menu and for any changes to open hours.
Finny's on Route 330's sign says they serve “Hook’n good food”
COURTESY OF FINNY'S
eslie Nickerson, the proprietor of Finny’s on Route 330 in Clark’s Harbour, NS, is one of five siblings who grew up on Cape Sable Island—a place that she still calls home. She has always enjoyed cooking and had worked in local restaurants for several years but always dreamed of having a food truck. When the opportunity came along, Leslie took a leap of faith with support from her family and bought a food wagon. Her original plan was to attend local events in the community and serve seafood and burgers; a plan that was playing out nicely until 2020 when COVID-19 came along and Leslie found herself stationary. She did not let that stop her. The food truck is now located across from the West Head Wharf in Clark’s Harbour—a quick trip across the Cape Sable Island causeway from Barrington Passage—and offers take outs to locals and tourists alike. Up until July of 2020 the original name was Route 330 Mobile for the highway number. However, Leslie says
COURTESY OF FINNY'S
By Alain Bossé
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NUTRITION
Cooking oils, demystified
Everything you need to know about the best oils for cooking By Maureen Tilley, PDt.
Registered Dietitian & Author
Fatty acids
Oils are made up of varying ratios of fatty acids called saturated fat and unsaturated fats which include monounsaturated (MUFA) and polyunsaturated (PUFA). They can also provide a source of vitamins and disease fighting substances called antioxidants. The particular make-up of an oil can impact our health for better or for worse. PUFAs (including omega 3, 6) and MUFAs decrease lousy LDL cholesterol and triglycerides (fat in the blood), while increasing the healthy HDL cholesterol. High levels of LDL cholesterol are linked to heart disease and stroke. Unsaturated fats, in particular PUFA, have shown to play a positive role in various diseases including diabetes, high blood pressure, cancer, Alzheimer’s, rheumatoid arthritis and digestive conditions. Many different antioxidants play varying roles. Antioxidants obtained from foods including oils, may play a role in decreasing inflammation, as well as, preventing and reversing damage done by free radicals, therefore reducing risk of chronic diseases including cancers, cardiovascular disease and death from all causes. Saturated fat comes from animal
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products (fatty cuts of meat, high fat dairy, butter, lard) and tropical oils (coconut oil, palm and palm kernel oil). High saturated fat gives oil its semi-solid texture at room temperature. Liquid oils contain a small amount of saturated fat but the ratio of unsaturated is much higher. We need a small amount of saturated fat every day, but excessive intake has been linked to increasing LDL cholesterol. Saturated fat intake should not exceed 10 per cent of total daily calories. Some health organizations like the American Heart Association recommends less than 6 per cent of total calories. Based on a 2,000-calorie diet, that’s 13-22g a day. It can add up quickly! For example, a single tablespoon of coconut oil has 12g saturated fat (more on tropical oils below) Aim to include 2–3 tablespoons of unsaturated oil (from MUFA and PUFA) every day and most importantly replacing saturated fat choices with unsaturated fats, such as swapping butter and coconut oil for olive oil.
heat causes loss of the antioxidant profile and its related health properties. If you’re looking for an unrefined oil with all the potential health benefits, choose products labelled as ‘unrefined’ ‘cold-pressed’, ‘extra virgin’. Olive oil is one of the most widely available unrefined oils; others may require a little more searching.
Smoke points for cooking
Heating oil beyond its smoke point causes oxidation. Oxidation changes the oil’s makeup, leading to an unpleasant taste and formation of harmful free radicals. It’s important to choose the correct oil based on its smoke point. If your oil is smoking, throw it out and start again. Exposure to light and oxygen also causes oxidation, with some oils being more susceptible than others. As a general rule, all oils should be tightly
Refined vs unrefined
Various methods are used to extract oil from parts of the plant. Refining oils involves pressing, heating, and adding food-grade chemical solvents. For unrefined oils, the extraction process is done by mechanically pressing/crushing without heat and chemical solvent. The customer and industry advantages of refining provides a larger yield, increases shelf and heat stability, and at a lower price tag. Refining also produces a milder-tasting, light-coloured oil, which can be a positive or negative thing depending on its use. Refining still retains the fatty acid composition but the
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hoosing a cooking oil can be a confusing task. There are many considerations from the type of oil, processing, impact on health and culinary use according to flavour and temperature stability (aka smoke point). If researching the topic, we’ll quickly come across an abundance of conflicting information. Let’s break down data so you have reliable information to make an informed choice.
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capped, and stored in a cool dark place. Fish, some nut and seed oils tend to be most susceptible and should also be refrigerated. Check the expiration date. Oxidation accelerates once opened and depending on the type of oil, your products can last three to eight months (for specific oils check foodsafety.gov/keep-food-safe/ foodkeeper-app). Always toss oils that smell and/or taste rancid. Consider your oil usage—the bigger bottle may not be the most cost efficient.
Choosing an oil
Your top choice is always olive oil, particularly extra virgin olive oil (EVOO). This unrefined oil is the healthiest of olive oils, and in fact it’s commonly the top recommendation of all oils. It’s a staple in the heart-healthy Mediterranean diet and the most researched of all oils for its health benefits. In addition to its high MUFA content, it is also rich in antioxidants called polyphenols, which have been shown to potentially decrease risk of cancer, diabetes, and Alzheimer’s. EVOO has a peppery and at times
pungent flavor, making it great for salad dressings, adding that finishing touch to vegetables and savoury dishes. It can be used in cooking at low to moderate temperatures, but not beyond 320-375°F (160-190°C). Evolving research has shown that EVOO can be heated beyond that temperature, as its rich antioxidant and fatty acid content may play a protective role against oxidation. ‘Classic’ or ‘Pure’ or ‘Virgin’ or simply ‘Olive oil’ is a blend of refined and extra virgin. This has a moderate flavour and a smoke point is 391-410°F (144-210°C). Due to the partial processing, the benefits of the antioxidants is diminished. Extra Light or Light olive oil is a refined oil. The fatty acid composition provides health benefits, but limited antioxidant benefit. It is the most versatile with a higher smoke point (390-470F), a mild flavour and at a lower cost. Keep in mind, ‘Light’ does not mean lower in calories. The runner up is avocado oil, the newer oil on the shelf. Unlike olive oil, this oil lacks a lot of scientific research but it’s predicted to have similar health
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benefits due to its comparable nutritional make-up. Unrefined avocado oil is more versatile than olive oil with an unusually high smoke point at 482°F (250°C) and a milder flavour. As more research evolves, avocado oil may be sharing or taking over the podium.
Common vegetable oils
Corn, safflower, peanut, canola, soybean oils have varying ratios of unsaturated fat and a low level of saturated fat. These oils tend to be refined so health benefits are reduced. Unrefined versions are uncommon and may be challenging to find, as well as available at a higher cost. The particular added benefits of these unrefined oils is not well known as they’re not commonly consumed or researched. Vegetable oils can be used in baking and cooking due to their mild flavour and medium to high smoke point from 400450°F (204-232°C).
Tropical oils (palm oil, palm kernel oil, coconut)
Coconut oil has hit the market by storm. While some studies have shown that they C O A S T
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“Your top choice is always olive oil, particularly extra virgin olive oil (EVOO). This unrefined oil is the healthiest of olive oils” Canada’s recent ban on the more harmful trans-fats has increased palm oil use as a replacement for partially-hydrogenated oil—in essense, replacing a high trans fat with high saturated fat. Coconut oil provides a distinct flavour in certain recipes, just be conscious on how much and often you use it. Substitute for a low saturated fat oil when appropriate, add it cooking when it’s a key flavor. Its smoke point is 350°F (177°C)
for unrefined, 400°F (204°C) for refined. For vegans who may consume very little saturated fat, coconut oil may be your source of choice.
Nut/Seed oils
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may increases HDL, it’s more than 90 per cent saturated fat content also increases LDL cholesterol. There are some coconut oils sold in liquid form, this does not change the saturated fat content. Palm kernel oil has a similar saturated fat make up to coconut, while palm oil is lower, around 50 per cent saturated fat but still considered high. Palm oils may not be as popular as coconut oil, but are commonly used in processed foods.
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Sesame seed, walnut, hemp seed, flax seed oil all consist mainly of unsaturated fats. Walnut, flax and hemp seed oils provide a higher amount of a PUFA, omega-3. This fatty acid is well known for its heart healthy benefits. These oils are more prone to oxidation and should be stored in dark bottles in the fridge. These oils have a moderate smoke point with the exception of flax seed oil at 225°F. Their nutty flavour goes well in a salad dressing, drizzled over food, or added to a smoothie. Sesame seed oil consists mostly of MUFA; its smoke point is 350°F (177°C) refined to 450°F (232°C) for semi-refined. It has a strong flavour and a little goes a long way when added to a stir-fry and other Asian cuisine. So there you have it and that’s just the basics on cooking oils! The bottom line: all oils liquid at room temperature provide some benefit, especially when used to replace saturated fat. If you’re looking to fine-tune your oil choice, EVOO is the top choice as your everyday oil. Use avocado when cooking at a higher heat and/or looking for a milder flavour.
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Three farms, one family The LeBlancs of Margaree By P.J. Wall
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he first thing I’m told on entering the henhouse with Miss Dee is, “Watch that rooster; he’s nasty.” Miss Dee is Denise LeBlanc, heading to collect the eggs laid overnight by her hens. She picks brown and white eggs from the sawdust-covered floor, and carefully places them in the woven basket that’s been the recipient of thousands over the years. “Got to have both colours,” says Denise, “Some customers are fussy, so, we aim to please—always.” Denise loves the moniker, Miss Dee. It was affectionally bestowed by a plethora of children she taught in her A to Z play school for 28 years. Forced to retire when Nova Scotia introduced the pre-primary program, she admits, “I really miss the children, but I’ve got lots to do around the farms; it’s 24/7, there’s three of them, you know.” She explains, “My husband, Leo, and I own, live, and work this one here in Fordview; it’s been in Leo’s family for four generations.” She continues, “On this unforgettable hill we’ve raised a family of four. Our eldest boy, Joe, lives in Guysborough; the other two, Ben and Peter, now have their own farms in Margaree. Our daughter, Adèle, teaches at the culinary school in Hawkesbury.” Egg collection finished, we step into the cool-late-morning air and bump into Leo on his way from the sheep shed, followed by his two Maremmano sheep dogs, Bella and Beau, sniffing for the treats in his jacket pocket. “Coyotes don’t
have a chance with these fellas around,” says Leo. “They’re native to Italy and great guard dogs.” “They’re big, too,” I remark a bit uneasily, as I carefully back away to the safety of my car. “Don’t go yet,” he insists; “Come and see the new lambs.” Into the barn we go and there, in separate pens, are the ewes and their newborns, some black, most white, feeding and bonding. Just across the walkway from the sheep, and beside one another in the same stall, are two huge draft horses, Leo’s pride and joy: Digger and Diamond, contentedly munching on their hay. After an affectionate slap on each horse’s rump, Leo says, “I use them, mostly, to help spread manure. Although it’s faster to do it by tractor, I love to work them and, on this hill, we’ve got places a tractor can’t go. “And,” he adds, “Once a year, I fancy up their harnesses, hitch them to our wagon and take kids on hayrides at our annual festival, the Margaree Highland Games.” The pride in his voice is evident, particularly when he suggests—almost demands—I go talk to the boys about their farms. “And—don’t forget Adèle,” yells Miss Dee. I give a symbolic salute and head south to Margaree Forks in search of Peter’s operation, Front Porch Farm. He’s hard to contact but eventually, we meet at his hardwood-encircled, riverside organic farm. It’s an idyllic site, where the alluvial soil and nearby-water source virtually
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guarantee the litany of first-rate organic produce and herbs for which he’s well known. If it can be grown in NS, it’s here. The growing says Peter, is the easy part; done by nature with some luck thrown in. “With cash crops, it’s the cultivating through marketing that demands all my time and energy. My family helps if I’m stuck; we’re all here for one other.” Most summer days it’s dawn to dusk for Peter, even with three helpers. Some are part of the Worldwide Opportunities on Organic Farms organization (WWOOF), a multinational system that links visitors with organic farmers. His biggest challenge is weather, particularly the last few years; springs are late and wet—summers hot and dry. This he blames on climate change but—whatever the reason—it required him to institute an expensive irrigation system. Pests, too, create havoc and are difficult to control. These challenges increase production costs and while some can be absorbed, most must be passed on to his customers. “That’s the most unpleasant part of farming,” says Peter. His marketing strategy involves selling to restaurants and retail stores; at various farmers markets; roadside venues; online selling through the Cape Breton Food Hub; and participation in the local CommunitySupported Agriculture system (CSA). The latter, where he has 50 customers, is a socio-economic model of agriculture and food distribution. It allows the producer and consumer to share the risks of farming. His customers pay a yearly upfront fee for their vegetables and herbs. Then, each week during the growing season, Peter delivers a box of fresh product to their door. The up-front fee is great for everyone, says Peter. “It provides me with much needed cash at the beginning of the season, when my costs are highest, and my customers get fresh-from-the-ground product all season. It makes everyone happy and farming worth-while.” Farming connections have certainly been fruitful for Peter’s brother, Ben. On Peter’s farm, he met Shandel, now his wife. Born in Edmonton, Alberta, Shandel has a master’s degree in environmental education. From home, which now
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Top: A horse-drawn hay ride is always a popular pastime at the annual Highland Games in Margaree. Left: New lambs in the spring. Above: Beef cattle gazing at a visitor to their pasture.
includes one-year-old daughter, Mattie B, she practices her profession amidst the complexities of the life they love on Rural Roots Farm. Ben takes the lead with the field work, where they raise lambs, hogs, Black Angus, Charolais and Simmental beef cattle. Spring, although hectic, is Ben’s favourite time of year. It’s a time of birth—new calves and lambs. Calving begins mid-February and often coincides with lambing time. It’s a 24/7 period for
Ben, his dad Leo and Shandel, in order to prevent casualties during the birthing process. Intervention is sometimes necessary. “With lambs, it’s relatively easy,” says Ben, “but when dealing with an eighty-pound calf, unable to leave the birth canal, it’s intense. Working together, our losses are infrequent. We’re fortunate; it tells us our adherence to healthy-herd management works.” With the birthing cycle complete, it’s on to pasture fertilization, fence mending, readiness for haymaking
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and—although not as labour intensive— marketing strategies. Currently, live animals must be shipped to Pictou for processing, as there isn’t a licensed abattoir on Cape Breton Island. “That’s a huge impediment to keeping our costs and customer prices reasonable,” says Ben. Products are sold at their farm-gate, online through the Cape Breton Food Hub, to grocery stores, a health food store, restaurants and soon, on their own website. Last spring, likely due to the pandemic, meat demand increased by 20 per cent. “Keeping 10 per cent of those
new customers would be wonderful for our future bottom line,” says Ben. Meanwhile, largely from behind the scenes, marketing strategies are always buzzing in sister Adèle’s head. With a degree in tourism and hospitality management and her current position as assistant for culinary programing at a Nova Scotia Community College (NSCC) campus, she’s a great resource. Besides some teaching, she’s in daily contact with food-industry partners who are constantly searching for suppliers of good-local food.
“I’m grateful, and proud, of the opportunity to help students of all ethnicities experiment with food from many farms, including ours,” says Adèle. She adds, “the effectiveness of wordof-mouth experiences is boundless yet, often, unsung. It not only sells food, but places, as evidenced by the rising trend toward rural living.” That’s a movement she embodies, being from a family that thrives on a labourious lifestyle. They are an inspiration to all who aspire to live the agrarian way.
Adèle’s “Two-way Coconut Beet Stir-Fry Recipe” As a topper: 1 tbsp 1 2 cloves 4 1-2 tbsp
butter medium onion, minced of garlic, minced large beets, washed, peeled & grated raw salt & pepper, to taste coconut oil, to taste
As a salad:
All ingredients above, plus the additional ingredients below 1 splash of fresh orange juice 1-2 tbsp fresh dill, roughly chopped 1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled handful of chopped pecans or walnuts, optional
Method 1. M elt butter in cast-iron skillet. Sweat onion and garlic on medium heat for
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5-8 minutes. stirring frequently. 2. A dd grated beets and sauté for 1520 minutes, stirring frequently, until desired tenderness is reached. 3. S eason with salt & pepper and stir in coconut oil. 4. I f making a salad: remove beets from heat and stir in orange juice, fresh dill, and feta cheese. Top with nuts prior to serving. The simple yet nutritious and flavourful possibility of beets make this duo recipe a fun way to explore this common root vegetable. The warm tangy salad can be served as a fun side with your favourite chicken dinner or pork roast. If feeling inspired by the stir-fried coconut beets alone, feature them as a creative burger or pizza topping!
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