Adventures, entertainment, culture, history, and more — your Nova Scotian experience awaits!
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Crystal Murray
Vice-President of Sales
Fred Fiander
Senior Editor/Copy Chief
Trevor J. Adams
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Ifthis is your first time exploring Nova Scotia in a few years, you’ll notice immediately that things have evolved from what you remember.
The fabled Bluenose hospitality is as strong as ever, with communities around the province, from Atlantic Canada’s largest city to tiny fishing villages and farming hamlets, welcoming visitors as they have for centuries.
And today, visitors can have a richer experience than ever.
Nova Scotia is telling its cultural story more fully. In Sydney, Membertou Heritage Park (page 57) immerses visitors in Mi’kmaw culture, with enactments, artistic exhibitions, and demonstrations. Learn even more, and see millennia-old artifacts, at the Millbrook Cultural and Heritage Centre (page 34).
The story of the province’s Black community comes alive at the Black Cultural Centre for Nova Scotia (page 6) in Cherry Brook, which spans some 400 years of heritage, from slavery to Loyalist settlers to heroism during the world wars, to present day. Learn more about the early days in particular at the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre (page 7) near Shelburne.
2024 is the ideal year to learn more about our rich and resilient Acadian culture, which resisted government oppression and thrives today. In August, 28 communities surrounding Clare, Yarmouth, and Argyle host visitors from around the world for the World Acadian Congress (page 22), an international festival of Acadian and Cajun heritage, organized every five years since 1994, bringing the diaspora together for reunions, conferences, and shows.
And many other touchstones you may recall from earlier visits continue to be must-sees, such as the iconic Halifax Citadel (page 14), the living history of Highland Village Museum (page 55) in Iona, and Port-Royal National Historic Site (page 27), where the earliest French settlers tried to carve out lives in the New World.
You’ll also find plenty that’s traditional in Nova Scotia’s culinary offerings. The old favourites like fish and chips, seafood chowder, and lobster rolls are plentiful and justifiably popular, and there are now more opportunities for unique culinary adventures. Try an authentic Acadian feast on the coast with SeaRoots (page 32), sample artisanal local cheese at That Dutchman’s Cheese Farm (page 34), or enjoy a unique fusion of past and present — scrumptious Mi’kmaw fry bread, with artichoke parmesan dip and sweet grass molasses — at Kiju’s Restaurant (page 62) in Membertou.
The libations scene has similarly evolved, a journey exemplified every September at the Bridgetown CiderFest (page 24). Cider has been a beloved Nova Scotian beverage ever since the first settlers began planting apples. But today, alongside the traditional ciders, innovative producers are experimenting with flavours, creating varieties for every palate and earning a host of new fans for the time-honoured beverage.
We could fill a book discussing how the past and present are coming together for an exciting new Nova Scotia, but experience is the best teacher, so our final advice: hit the road with an open heart and an open mind. Whether you’re visiting for a month or day tripping for an afternoon, our province is prepared to surprise and delight.
— Trevor J. AdamsCome as you are
Celebrate the unique and diverse cultures thriving in our province
Festivals, music, exhibitions, special places, and community celebrations offer visitors a rich array of authentic Nova Scotian cultural experiences. Read on for some of our favourites.
Black Cultural Centre For Nova Scotia, Cherry Brook
Open year-round bccns.com
The Black Cultural Centre for Nova Scotia offers a learning experience about the country’s largest indigenous
By Ameeta VohraBlack community. It represents 400 years of African Nova Scotian culture and heritage as settlers descended in 52 communities across the province, including Africville, East Preston, Cherry Brook, Sydney, Shelburne, and Springhill. From the powerful role of the all-Black No. 2 Construction Battalion in the First World War to migration stories, the museum demonstrates the roots of one of our longest-existing communities. The centre has a gift shop with books sharing more
about the Black community and lived experiences.
Millbrook Cultural and Heritage Centre, Millbrook Open year-round millbrookheritagecentre.ca
The inviting lure of this attraction is Glooscap, the 12-metre statue that was erected in 2005 to represent the tides of the Bay of Fundy. Glooscap is the
Mi’kmaq creation god. The Mi’kmaq Museum has exhibits and artifacts deeply rooted in Mi’kmaq history. One of the highlights is the “Repatriation of Mi’kmaw Regalia” exhibit. The sacred artifacts had been taken to Australia, where they stayed for 144 years before returning home to Millbrook. Participate in hand drum-making experiences, or the entire family can enjoy workshops on journey stones, talking sticks, and playing games, which all have cultural significance.
Halifax Pride Festival
July 18-28
halifaxpride.com
There is excitement this summer as the Halifax Pride Festival returns for an 11day celebration of the East Coast’s largest 2SLGTBQ+ community. The festival will host 150 events highlighting queer
culture, history, activism, and resiliency. The annual highlight is the Pride Parade on July 20, as enthusiastic marchers and dozens of colourful floats glide through the downtown amidst a vibrant atmosphere that draws tens of thousands of spectators.
Black Loyalist Heritage Site
Open year-round blackloyalist.com
Nestled between Birchtown Bay and Shelburne Harbour is the Black Loyalist Heritage Site. Visitors can learn about the experiences and history of the Black Loyalists who fled the American Revolution to settle in this area in 1783. Stroll Aminata’s Walking Trail, explore the Old School House Museum with community artifacts, visit St. Paul’s Anglican Church, and cap your excursion at the Black Burial Ground and Monument Site for quiet
reflection. Sample the Back to Birchtown craft beer tasting flight at Boxing Rock Brewing. The inspiration came from Black Loyalists and is a collaboration with Change is Brewing, a group promoting diversity and inclusion in the beer industry.
Explore | CULTURE
Journey into the Night Sky (Dark Sky Preserve), Kejimkujik
Aug. 11-13
shorturl.at/fhHYZ
At the UNESCO Southwest Nova Biosphere Reserve, you can gaze at the stars under a dark sky and experience what it was like for Native people centuries ago. This event is a unique opportunity to learn about astronomy from the Mi’kmaw cultural perspective. At Kejimkujik’s protected forest, visitors can see the Dark Sky Preserve, a panorama that light pollution doesn’t taint.
Nova Multifest, Dartmouth
July 19-21
multifestns.ca
At Alderney Landing (where the Halifax Transit ferry docks in downtown Dartmouth), Nova Multifest celebrates the province’s diversity and culture. Communities join forces to showcase live performances, artwork, cultural outfits, and native cuisine. Participating groups represent expatriates from India, Germany, Egypt, the Philippines, the Caribbean, Scotland, Afghanistan, Turkey, and Latin America.
Festival de l’Escaouette, Chéticamp
Aug. 1-4
facebook.com/FestivalDeLEscaouette
During le Festival de l’Escaouette, you’ll find something for the whole family — it’s a boisterous annual community celebration of Acadian culture and history. This festival showcases this Cape Breton region’s rich French heritage with a variety of music, dance, theatre, kitchen parties, a parade, and activities for all ages.
Authentic Adventures and Hidden Treasures abound in glorious Atlantic Canada
We invite locals and visitors to share photos and stories about your East Coast adventures to enter our 2024 Hidden Treasures contest, brought to you by Atlantic Subaru dealers.
We look forward to helping more people discover the exceptional variety of rich traditions and worldclass culinary, cultural, and travel experiences available within Atlantic Canada.
We’re excited to celebrate the diverse and passionate people and the small and medium-sized businesses that o er these products and experiences to the world.
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Dramatization. Do not attempt. Always park your vehicle away from hazardous edges. Model shown is a 2024 Outback Wilderness. See your local Subaru dealer for complete details. Vehicles shown solely for purposes of illustration and may not be equipped exactly as shown. Accessories shown and corresponding lifestyle items are extra and may not be available at the dealer. See Owner’s Manual for complete details on system operation and limitations. EyeSight® is a driver-assist system, which may not operate optimally under all driving conditions. The driver is always responsible for safe and attentive driving. System effectiveness depends on many factors such as vehicle maintenance, and weather and road conditions. Ratings are awarded by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS). Please visit www.iihs.org for testing methods. See your local Subaru dealer or visit www.atlantic.subarudealer.ca for complete program details. Outback Wilderness and Subaru are registered trademarks. “welcome to uncommon” is a trademark of Subaru Canada Inc.
Where festive hearts flower
A bon vivant once said, “This city is for dancing.” Indeed, it is, and for eating, drinking, exploring, and anything else your heart desires
By Alec BruceAtthe beating heart of downtown Halifax, you’ll find Queen’s Marque (queensmarque.com), a new waterfront development that’s also a spectacular homage to the traditions of Nova Scotia’s past. This contemporary destination for dining, shopping, and connecting is an example of born-ofthis-place design, deploying materials, stories, symbols, and references that honour Maritime craftsmanship and history.
From local sandstone to marine-inspired forms jutting dramatically over the harbour, the result is a destination that is so shaped by our region, it could simply not exist anywhere else. Take, for example, Tidal Beacon, a dramatic 20-metre art installation that towers at
the harbour’s edge. Its appearance changes as its lights rise and fall with the tides, culminating in a 12-minute show four times a day. See it on foot or rent from Segway Nova Scotia (segwayns.com) or I Heart Bikes (iheartbikeshfx.com). Both also offer guided downtown tours.
The city boasts many other tour options, too. Enjoy a variety of culinary cruises and family-friendly fun with Ambassatours (ambassatours.com) or take a luxury pontoon boat tour with City Harbour Cruises (cityharbourcruises.com).
WHAT’S going ON?
Glad you asked. Here are just a (very) few of what will surely be your favourite things this year in Nova Scotia’s capital region.
May 2: Harlem Globetrotters, Scotiabank Centre, Halifax. tinyurl.com/yh7j9e7f
May 8-11: Halifax ComedyFest, various venues, Halifax. halifaxcomedyfest.ca
June 1: Eastern Shore Cold Waters Seafood Festival, Lake Charlotte. tinyurl.com/3jxp3vye
June 1: Sail Grand Prix Halifax, Halifax waterfront. See page 20. sailgp.com
June 3: Snoop Dogg Cali to Canada Tour, Scotiabank Centre, Halifax. scotiabank-centre.com
June 16: Antique Car Show, Memory Lane Heritage Village, Lake Charlotte. visitmemorylane.ca
June 28-July1: 2024 Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo, Scotiabank Centre, Halifax. nstattoo.ca
July 1: Canada Day Celebrations at Halifax Citadel, downtown Halifax. tinyurl.com/mrxzn8pk
July 5: Peggy’s Cove Area Festival of the Arts, various venues. tinyurl.com/je3a2jv6
July 9-14: Halifax Jazz Festival, various venues. halifaxjazzfestival.ca
July 18-28: Halifax Pride Festival various venues. halifaxpride.com
July 30-Aug 25: Dear Rita, Neptune Theatre, Halifax. neptunetheatre.com
July 31-Aug 5: BuskerFest 2024, various venues, Halifax. buskers.ca
Aug. 9-11: Great Outdoors Comedy Festival, Garrison Grounds, Halifax. greatoutdoorscomedyfestival.com
Aug. 14: Matt Mays and Zeus, Shore Club, Hubbards. tinyurl.com/3fj53dtz
Aug. 15-17: Halifax County Exhibition, Middle Musquodoboit. halifaxcountyex.com
Aug. 16: Rock the Harbour Classic Rock Festival, Alderney Landing, Dartmouth. tinyurl.com/3fj53dtz
Sept. 10-Oct. 5: A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Neptune Theatre, Halifax. neptunetheatre.com
Sept. 11-18: Atlantic International Film Festival, various venues. atlanticfilmfestival.ca
Halifax Harbour Tours (halifaxharbourtours.ca) offers an all-electric, environmentally friendly tour aboard a 1930s-style harbour launch, while J Farwell Sailing Co. (jfsailingtours.com) touts customized yacht tours and charters. There are Sea-Doo and kayak rentals from Harbour Watercraft Tours & Adventures (theharbourwatercraft.com), and if you feel the need for speed, Sea Halifax (seahfx.com) offers jet-boat tours.
“Most Feel-Good Shop in Nova Scotia”
The largest, most versatile collection of crystals and tumblestones on the east coast. Plus, tarot/oracle cards, sterling jewelry, pendulums, incense, salt lamps, singing bowls, candles, nuwati teas, imports and more. Many gi ed psychics, numerology, astrology, Aura Scans and dry salt treatments (Halotherapy Booth). Positive Energy in Abundance!
Back ashore, Halifax Citadel National Historic Site (parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/ ns/halifax) is the city’s iconic landmark, attracting tens of thousands each year. According to the Halifax Military Heritage Preservation Society, “the first Citadel was completed in September 1749, just three months after the arrival of the British settlers under Governor Edward Cornwallis. It was the first of a ring of five stockaded forts connected by wooden palisade walls. The second Citadel was designed as a series of elongated, irregular, polygonal fieldworks of earth and sod.” As imposingly prepared for conflict as it appears, the Citadel has never actually been attacked.
There’s more to see and do there than time permits, but it’s fun trying just the same. There are exhibits and attractions aplenty, including permanent exhibits, special exhibits, period rooms, artillery, and fortifications. The guided walking tour (shorturl.at/HK235) gives you the view up close and personal. Dare to be scared during the Citadel public or private haunted history guided ghost (shorturl.at/suBL6) tour. Also check out Citadel Adventures, (shorturl.at/aCLRW) a mystery game for kids ages nine to 15. Relax into the Distilled Experiences (shorturl.at/dnJPR)
JULY 9–14, 2024
6 DAYS OF INCREDIBLE MUSIC VENUES ACROSS THE CITY
FREE DAILY CONCERTS
Scan for info and tickets
halifaxjazzfestival.ca
tour and tasting with a kilted 78th Highlander. Finally, dress as a 78th Highlander and Ready! Aim! Fire! (shorturl.at/losAM) an authentic Snider-Enfield rifle or be a Soldier for a Day (tinyurl.com/mu3cd4zr). Grounds open year-round; dates and times for exhibitions and experiences vary.
In the heart of Halifax harbour, the place the Mi’kmaq called Kjipuktuk or “the Great Harbour,” Georges Island National Historic Site (parks.canada. ca/lhn-nhs/ns/georges/activ) offers scenic views from a new perspective. Discover how this small island and its fortifications played a key, and at times dark, role in Canadian history as a prison and internment camp for expelled Acadian settlers. Georges Island is on
Explore | HALIFAX REGIONAL MUNICIPALITY
Halifax Harbour and only accessible by sea. Take the ferry with Ambassatours Gray Line (ambassatours.com) or travel by private boat, canoe, or kayak. Ferry runs June 8-Oct. 13.
The Peggy’s Cove Coastal Region (peggyscoveregion.com) is one of the premier travel destinations in the province. Home to the iconic Peggy’s Point Lighthouse and the worldrenowned village of Peggy’s Cove, the area comprises much of the extensive rural section on the western side of Halifax Regional Municipality. It’s a special place, safe and friendly, offering a wealth of engaging experiences, activities, and adventures, including beaches, parks, picnic areas, boat tours, charters, marinas, cycling, golfing, hiking, kayaking, and sailing. There are also attractions like the Coastal Heritage Trail, Hooked Rug Museum of North America, and deGarthe Gallery and Museum. Located 45 kilometres from downtown Halifax, you’ll need wheels to get there. But it’s so worth it. Village and Sou’wester restaurant open year-round; other attractions vary seasonally.
THE beautiful GAME
the boisterous crowds at the pop-up stadium on South Park Street to see Halifax’s hometown soccer heroes, Hfx Wanderers FC (hfxwanderersfc.canpl.ca), in Canadian Premier League action throughout the summer.
The season continues through October, and if the home side does well, there is a chance Halifax will host Canadian Championship action, as Major League Soccer teams join the fray to battle for a chance to qualify for the FIFA Club World Cup.
On game day, head to Spring Garden Road an hour or two before kickoff, and you won’t have any trouble making new friends, as supporters gather at the street’s many pubs before marching to the Wanderers Grounds. Just follow your ears.
Explore | HALIFAX REGIONAL MUNICIPALITY
WAVE racers
During the Age of Sail, Halifax welcomed white-winged vessels from around the world. The high-tech hydrofoils of SailGP (sailgp.com) are a long way from those golden days, but it still feels like a homecoming of sorts to have the international sailing league make its first visit to the port.
Organizers promise two days of fierce competition on June 1 and 2 (weather permitting), as Captain Phil Robertson and his crew will battle nine other international teams, with Canada hosting the competition for the first time.
“Canada Sail Grand Prix will be the 11th stop on season four’s record-breaking 13-event calendar, which means teams will be putting it all on the line to move up the season leaderboard in the run up to San Francisco’s Grand Final,” says a press release from organizers.
Tickets are sold out, but with the action set to happen mid-harbour, there should be plenty of free vantages along the Halifax and Dartmouth waterfronts.
Heritage and celebration
Travel through time and discover vibrant communities with deep historical roots
By Barry RuegerThere are boisterous community celebrations throughout the summer in western Nova Scotia, with the season hitting critical mass in August.
This year marks the return to Nova Scotia of the World Acadian Congress (cma2024.ca) from Aug. 10-18. It’s a festival of Acadian and Cajun culture, organized every five years since 1994. Over the course of nine days in 28 communities surrounding Clare, Yarmouth, and Argyle, the festival brings together the Acadian diaspora for reunions, conferences, and shows.
Acadia became a French colony in 1604 and a century later Great Britain conquered it, expelling many of the francophone settlers. The Congress is the time when Acadians, and descendants of Acadia, reunite to celebrate their roots.
Just before the Congress, the Festival Acadien de Clare (festivalacadiendeclare.ca), offers a more local celebration on shores of St. Mary’s Bay from July 27-Aug. 3.
Around the same time, see the Annapolis Valley Exhibition (annapolisvalley exhibition.com) in Lawrencetown from Aug. 12-16. It’s a true agricultural fair, with draft horses, dairy cattle, oxen, and even rug-pulling and wood-working competitions. For the kids there’s a Teddy Bear’s Picnic, and Little Future Farmer contest.
And if those dates don’t work for you, there’s much more on the calendar.
If your tastes run to the supernational, you can start your visit with a Candlelight Graveyard Tour (tourannapolisroyal.com/graveyard. html) in Annapolis Royal nightly from Aug. 7-Sept. 4. Created in 1991 by internationally acclaimed heritage interpreter Alan Melanson, they have consistently been one of the most popular visitor experiences in Nova Scotia.
Explore | YARMOUTH, ACADIAN SHORES & ANNAPOLIS VALLEY
And on Aug. 17 and 18, Annapolis also hosts the 2024 Paint the Town festival (arcac.ca/paint-the-town.html) — a painting weekend with 80 artists setting up their easels at locations throughout the town. This popular event draws onlookers and art buyers from around Atlantic Canada and beyond.
When summer winds down, the schedule stays hot.
In September, quench your thirst at Bridgetown Ciderfest (bridgetown ciderfest.com) from Sept. 6-8, plus don’t miss the annual apple pie eating contest. Another favourite returns to the Acadian shore the next weekend, as 700 cyclists take on the Gran Fondo Baie Sainte-Marie (granfondobaiesaintemarie.ca) from Sept. 13-14, with courses up to 128 kilometres.
History buffs will want to start in Tusket with a tour of the Argyle Township Court House and Gaol (argylecourthouse.com), the oldest courthouse in Canada. Perhaps the most notorious trial to take place here was the 1922 murder trial of Omar P. Roberts — the last person executed by hanging in Yarmouth County.
In the Lobster Capital of Canada, lobster isn’t just a dish; it’s a story told by the sea, a flavour woven into the fabric of our coastal community.
Go ahead! Take the plunge, we'll make it unforgettable!
Top: Learn about one of Canada’s best-documented UFO sightings at Shag Harbour UFO XPO. Bottom: This region boasts some of the continent’s best star-gazing.
And a truly out-of-this-world experience comes to this area from Sept. 28-29, as Shag Harbour UFO XPO 2024 (shagharbourufoexpo.com) comes to Yarmouth. UFO enthusiasts from around the globe will gather to explore the 1967 Shag Harbour Incident, when several
people, including local police and an airline pilot, reporting seeing a mysterious glowing object flying erratically along the Nova Scotian coast, making strange noises before crashing into Shag Harbour and sinking beneath the waves. Search crews raced to the scene but found nothing. The mystery continues to fascinate UFO enthusiasts.
Even if you don’t see a flying saucer, Yarmouth and Acadian Shores is where you can find some of the darkest and clearest skies in North America. The region is so perfectly suited for viewing the night sky that the International Starlight Foundation named it the first Starlight Reserve in North
YARMOUTH, ACADIAN SHORES | Explore & ANNAPOLIS VALLEY
America, noting the clear skies and minimal urban light pollution. The Deep Sky Eye Observatory (deepskyeye.com) is a unique starlight tourist destination, where you can explore the night sky with telescopes and stay overnight in a Sky Bubble. A more luxurious option is the Trout Point Lodge (troutpoint.com) in nearby East Kemptville, in the heart of the UNESCO Southwest Nova Scotia Biosphere Reserve. The wilderness resort is set amidst an enchanting and pristine woodland, touting impeccable accommodations, hyper-local fine dining, and extraordinary creature comforts.
It has been more than 400 years since European settlers joined the local Mi’kmaq, and the abundance of museums up and down the Fundy Coast lets you explore that history. Fort Anne National Historic Site (parks.canada. ca/lhn-nhs/ns/fortanne) in Annapolis Royal is what remains of a long line of forts first erected by the Scots, then subsequently built by the French, and then taken over and rebuilt by the British. While you’re there, enjoy an al fresco boxed lunch from local eateries on the rolling manicured hills. The nearby Port-Royal National Historic Site (parks. canada.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/portroyal) features a reconstruction of a French habitation.
Explore
| YARMOUTH, ACADIAN SHORES & ANNAPOLIS VALLEY
From kitchen and forge to artisan’s quarters and the trading room you’ll feel how life was for 17th-century French colonists. Grounds open year-round, buildings open May 17-Oct. 13 for both historic sites.
The Firefighters Museum of Nova Scotia in Yarmouth (firefightersmuseum. novascotia.ca) is another year-round family favourite. Nova Scotia has a strong volunteer firefighting culture, and this museum showcases fire engines and other items from the 1800s to the present.
Yarmouth is also the place to catch The Cat (tinyurl.com/437ebbrp), a high-speed ferry between Yarmouth and Bar Harbor, Me. Or from Digby, take the Fundy Rose (tinyurl.com/yc29z467) ferry to Canada’s oldest incorporated city, Saint John, N.B. With departures from New Brunswick in the morning and Digby later in the day, it’s not suited for day tripping, but ideal for an overnight excursion to
Sticking to the coast, you’ll find Nova Scotia’s legendary lighthouses wherever you find a towering cliff, tricky passage, or rocky promontory. The biggest and best of these is Cape Forchu Lighthouse (capeforchu.com) near Yarmouth, where Willem Dafoe and Robert Pattinson filmed their acclaimed psychological thriller
Where Doers Stay
At Rodd Grand Yarmouth, we know you want to explore and do all you can while on vacation – and a good night’s rest is the best start to the day.
With the comfiest of beds, our on-site restaurant Gale’s Eatery, featuring local cuisine, on-site Haley’s Lounge, an indoor pool, gym and the friendliest team ready to host you – we are the perfect addition to your Nova Scotia plans.
The Lighthouse. Starting May 18, the real lighthouse opens for the season, with Climb the Light tours, Nichole’s Kitchen at the Cape restaurant, two gift shops, new observation decks, walking trails, and of course, gorgeous ocean views.
Also in the southern part of Nova Scotia, join the Acadia First Nation (acadiafirstnation.ca) for a Harvest Feast on Oct. 5. Drop into a cafe or try your luck at the gaming tables.
Have a nibble
Up and down the west coast of Nova Scotia, you’ll find seafood of all types — like fresh lobsters, steamed clams and snow crab at Les Beaux Vendredis Seafood Suppers (beauxvendredis.ca) at the Belliveau Cove Wharf along St. Mary’s Bay, Friday evenings from July 1- Aug. 30). Or enjoy tasty snacks, micro-distillery cocktails, and music at the Tipsy Gull (tinyurl. com/465xc66d) in Yarmouth. Or for the best view of the harbour, check out Rudder’s Seafood Restaurant & Brew Pub (ruddersbrewpub.com) on the water’s edge, where fresh seafood pairs with house-made beer.
For a once-in-a-lifetime gourmet experience, book early for this year’s SeaRoots (tinyurl.com/mrxc565f)
oceanside seafood culinary experience. Start the evening beach foraging with the chefs. then take a seat at our Acadian-style harvest table for a seafood feast, local beverage pairings, and live music. Wrap up with our stunning sunsets, a cozy campfire, locally roasted coffee, and light snacks.
Rural charm, nature’s beauty
LetMeet Nova Scotia’s most welcoming folk
By Trish Joudreyadventure and fascination lure you back in time with three-hundred-million-year-old fossils, entice you into the warmest waters north of the Carolinas, inspire you to hike coastal trails, learn about Mi’kmaw culture, and experience the highest tides in the world.
The “Hub of Nova Scotia,” Truro (truro.ca) welcomes you with various 19th and 20th century architectural styles including Queen Anne, Victorian, Craftsman, and Greek Revival. From here, you can easily hop aboard a zodiac boat on the Shubenacadie or Salmon rivers and ride the Tidal Bore (shubietidalborerafting.ca),
a tidal phenomenon that sees incoming tides surge into nearby rivers. Complete your adventure by sliding down the slick mud banks. It’s a wild and wet experience: the only place in the world to river-raft a genuine tidal wave.
Connect with Indigenous Heritage, and Nature’s Beauty
Nature awaits you in Truro’s Victoria Park (victoriaparktruro.ca), a 1,200-hectare sylvan wonder. There’s something for everyone: a playground, hiking trails, waterfalls, and natural gorges for nature lovers, a 175-stair climb up Jacob’s Ladder for the sports enthusiasts, and 40 kilometres of trails for bikers at the Railyard Mountain Bike Park.
Step into nature with the 18-kilometre Cobequid Trail (colchester.ca/ cobequid-trail) system, beginning in
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Truro. Meander through wooded paths, meadows, shaded brooks, marshlands, and mudflats, where spotting migratory birds, bald eagles, and osprey is possible. Nine different trails for walkers and bikers meander through woods, meadows, shaded brooks, marshlands, and mudflats, where you might spot migratory birds, bald eagles, and osprey.
Immerse yourself in Mi’kmaw culture and view artifacts over 7,500 years old at Millbrook Cultural and Heritage Centre (millbrookheritagecentre.ca), a living village exhibit. While you’re there, try Indigenous games, make Journey Stones or Talking Sticks, or shop for local indigenous clothing and art.
Did you know that one of the most significant archaeological sites in North American is right here in Central Nova? The Debert Palaeo-Indian National Historic Site (shorturl.at/ wAUY5) boasts the earliest evidence of human occupation in eastern North America, dating back 11,000 years. You can also walk the nearby rugged 4.4-kilometre trail to learn more about Mi’kmawey ancestors through interpretive panels and art by Dozay Christmas at Debert Interpretive Trail (shorturl. at/gyRX2).
Unique Experiences
A 15-minute drive west from Debert, you can feel poetic vibes emanating
from the Elizabeth Bishop House (shorturl.at/tV259) in Great Village. This 1874 historic home radiates literary memories of the late 1956 Pulitzer Prize winner for poetry, and former resident, Elizabeth Bishop. Nearby is That Dutchman’s Cheese Farm (thatdutchmansfarm.com) in Upper Economy. Don’t be scared off by cheese names such as Dragon’s Breath Blue, Old Growler, or Smeerkaas. Each is a mouth-watering experience. Walk the Animal and Nature Park, where Scottish Highland cattle, emus, geese, rabbits, and donkeys roam.
Dig into fossils at Parrsboro’s Fundy Geological Museum (fundygeological. novascotia.ca), the renowned gateway to experience over 200 million years of the Bay of Funday’s geological history. The working fossil lab, fossil exhibits, guided beach tours, Fossil Family Fun, and Fossils on Horseback Overnight Getaways programs provide educational adventures.
Discover Parrsboro’s hidden gem, Spencer’s Island Lighthouse (shorturl. at/EFLR9). Built in 1904, it commands an unobstructed view over the Minas Channel. Savour the panorama, have a picnic, or visit the Spencer Island Lighthouse Museum, open during July and August.
Joggins Fossil Cliffs UNESCO World Heritage Site (jogginsfossilcliffs.net) is a must-experience. Don your archaeological hat and search for three-million-year-old fossil treasures on the ocean floor at low tide by yourself or with a geological guide.
North Shore’s Local Favourites
The North Shore’s prize village, Pugwash (shorturl.at/bgCJV), is renowned for the Thinkers Lodge National Historic Site (thinkerslodge. org), birthplace of the first Pugwash conference on Science and World Affairs, which earned the 1995 Nobel
Tatamagouche’s historic waterfront, Creamery Square (creamerysquare.ca), has something for everyone: Farmer’s Market, Heritage Centre, Arts Centre, and Boat Shop. Sitting in the heart of town is Canada’s oldest standing railway station, the 1887 Train Station Inn and Railway Dining Car (tatatrainstation. com). The old red-brick building invites you in to sip a latte or browse the gift shop. The adjacent, vintage 200-metre CN train offers guest accommodations in
Five Fine Beaches on Northumberland Shore
Beachcomb and experience the warmest waters this side of the Carolinas.
Caribou/Munroe’s Beach, 2119 Three Brooks Rd, Caribou. Beautiful five-kilometre red sand beach. Watch for eagles and a variety of shore birds. Toilets and changerooms. shorturl. at/hkqRS
Melmerby Beach, Route 289, exit 27.
Broad, two-kilometre sandy beach with boardwalks, change rooms, showers, and toilets. shorturl.at/lvPX1
Rushton’s Beach, 723 Hwy 6, Marshville. Broad sandbars at low tide. The salt marsh attracts a large variety of birds. Boardwalk, toilets, and changerooms. shorturl.at/hJLV5
Blue Sea Beach
651 Blue Sea Rd., Malagash Point. Beautiful one-kilometre beach with warm water. Change rooms and toilets. shorturl.at/loILR
Pomquet Beach, 432 Pomquet Beach Rd., Pomquet. Three-kilometre golden sand beach with beautiful dunes, sand bars, and protected piping plovers. Change rooms and toilets. coastalnovascotia. ca/pomquet-beach-provincial-park
redesigned boxcars and cabooses. Added bonuses are the 4.5-kilometre Butternut Trail (novascotia.cioc.ca/record/ COT0033), part of the 107-kilometre Short Line Trail (tatamagouchetrails. ca/maps-details) and Trans Canada Trail, and the nearby restored 1874 historic landmark Balmoral Grist Mill (balmoralgristmill.novascotia.ca).
Walk back to 1773 along the Hector Heritage Quay (shiphector.ca) in Pictou, the “birthplace of New Scotland.”
Imagine what life was like for Nova Scotia’s first Scottish immigrants aboard the full-sized replica ship Hector. You’ll have a real North Shore experience at Pictou’s longstanding Pictou Lobster Carnival (pictoulobstercarnival.ca), July 5-7. There’s music, boat races, lobster dinners, fireworks, and more. Top off your visit with a sweet delight from Mrs. MacGregor’s classic shortbreads, a local favourite at 59 Water Street.
Festivals, Food and Scottish Heritage Fun
Ceud Mìle Fàilte (One Hundred Thousand Welcomes) to Antigonish, home of the celebrated Antigonish Highland Games (antigonishhighlandgames.ca), July 7-14. The 2024 Games brim with Scottish heritage: pipe bands, Concert Under the Stars featuring eminent performers such as Wendy MacIssaac, Mairi Rankin, and Mac Morin, and competitions such as Highland Dancing and Tir Nan Òg (a field event introducing youth to activities
Fundy Discovery Site
Tatamagouche
Tatamagouche Brewery
Cobequid Trail
such as caber toss, tug-a-war, and track and field). This year’s highlight of the 159th Games is the addition of the Celtic Comedy Show showcasing Darry Purvis on July 12. Visitors are welcome to try their luck in the Farmer’s Walk event — attempt to carry a 202-pound weight in each hand down a 100-metre course.
There’s more rocking music at Antigonish’s Nova Scotia Summer Fest (novascotiasummerfest.ca), Aug. 15-17. Visit the pre-festival Cook-Out on Aug. 15 for mouth-watering food and beverages from Nova Scotian producers, and a line-up of musicians who will keep your feet tapping for three days, including Joel Plaskett, Elyse Aeryn, and The East Pointers.
For the best in Canadian and East Coast music, New Glasgow’s riverfront Jubilee (thejubilee.ca), Aug. 2-4, is your stop. This year’s annual three-day lineup includes Sum 41, The Trews, April Martell, and more.
Top: Nova Scotia Summer Fest showcases home-grown talent. Bottom: Rock legends Sum 41, who recently announced their impending retirement, will play their final Nova Scotian concert at the Jubilee on Aug. 3.
CENTRAL NOVA & NORTH SHORE
Before you leave… Lastly, a trip to the North Shore is not complete without the spectacular drive north from Antigonish to Cape George, where the 1861 heritage Cape George Lighthouse (shorturl.at/ swzSW) welcomes you with breathtaking views over Cape Breton and P.E.I. Or drive south to a truly Nova Scotian maple syrup experience at Earltown’s Sugar Moon Farm (sugarmoon.ca).
Plan to spend a few hours, sampling Award Winning Dragon’s Breath and Gouda cheeses, browsing the shop of Dutch treats and gifts with Antiques in the attic, and stretching your legs in the rural, rustic setting of the Farm, Animal and Nature Park. There you can explore over 20 acres of woodland, along waterways, through the forest, past naturalized gardens, the park allows for an interactive family experience/ picnic. Located on the Funday Shore in Upper Economy, NS overlooking the beautiful Bay of Fundy.
www.thatdutchmansfarm.com
The seabound coast
Small-town hospitality shakes hands with wild places — beaches, trails, salmon streams, archipelagos, and a world-renowned folk festival
By Alec BruceCoastal Adventures (coastaladventures. com) in Tangiers, about 86 kilometres east of Halifax, is celebrating its 44th year in business as one of the province’s premier sea kayaking and coastal paddling operations. Catering to paddlers of any skill level, the company offers full- and half-day trips. There’s also extended tours throughout the region and instruction at their Kayak School. If you’re experienced, you can rent equipment and go solo.
“Along our coastline lies a little known, yet incredible, natural treasure,” say the owners. “It’s a vast and beautiful archipelago of over 100 wild islands ... The archipelago is one of the last remaining intact and ecologically rich island groups of its size in North America. The rugged beauty simply can’t be put into words.” Join Captain Brian Murphy for an interactive scenic boat tour to experience the tranquility and breathtaking views for yourself. Open July 1-Sept. 4, daily, 10 a.m.-1 p.m., 2 p.m.-6 p.m.
At Sherbrooke Village (sherbrooke village.novascotia.ca) on the banks of the St. Mary’s River, 83 kilometres southwest of Guysborough, staff want you to join them and the village artisans while they spin wool, turn wood, hammer iron, shape clay, and
snap ambrotype images on 21 beautiful hectares. “Our new season is sure to be full, with thrilling events and festivals with workshops galore for the young and young at heart.”
Experience life as it was in 1867 at the working woodturner shop, blacksmithy, pottery studio, and printery.
Sign up for multi-day learning camps and events. Visit Village Treasures & Gift Shop for unique village-crafted gifts. Enjoy a delicious meal at McDaniel’s Tea Room. Open June-Sept., ThursdayMonday, 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m.
Canso Islands National Historic Site (parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/canso), on a
low, windswept Atlantic archipelago, was once an abundant fishing site for the Mi’kmaq and early European settlers. Now imagine life in this remote outpost and one if its enclaves, Grassy Island Fort National Historic Site (shorturl.at/ekyBI). After war broke out between Britain and France in 1744, an expedition from Louisburg attacked Grassy Island and burned it to ground. The following year, an army of New Englanders used the island as a staging point to attack Louisbourg. With the capture of the French fortress, the New Englanders withdrew from Canso. Today, the island is a treeless, windswept memorial to the area’ s extraordinary history. Open July 1-Sept. 4, daily, 10 a.m.-1 p.m., 2 p.m.-6 p.m.
The Eastern Shore also means hikes, and plenty of them. There’s the Canso Waterfront Trail, overlooking Grassy Island Museum & Interpretive Centre. There’s the Port Bickerton Lighthouse walking trail near Sherbrooke, which offers a unique range of coastal terrain maintained by a dedicated group of volunteers and open to the public each summer. And there’s the Taylor Head Provincial Beach Park Trail system near Sheet Harbour: Beach Walk, Bob Bluff Trail, Bull Beach Trail, Spry Bay Trail, and Headland Trail. Visit coastalnovascotia.ca/outdoor-activities for trail details.
Tried and always true
No trip to the Eastern Shore would be complete without a visit to one of its many distinctive beaches. There’s Lawrencetown and Martinique, famous for surfing, even in winter. There’s rugged Tor Bay, Taylor’s Head, and Clam Harbour. There’s Port Shoreham (part of Port Shoreham Provincial Park), where the sand at low tide almost seems purple. You won’t confuse these coastal stretches for tropical paradises but if it’s beach combing you’re after, you’re in the right place. Details here: shorturl.at/suzDY.
Somewhere down the not-so-lazy river, just outside of Sherbrooke on Highway 7 heading toward Antigonish, is the St. Mary’s River Salmon Museum (shorturl.at/zMQU6). The museum boasts historic photos, fishing lore, a bookstore, and gift shop, all dedicated to spreading the word about this stunning watercourse that runs from Pictou County down to the sea at Port Hilford. One of the finest salmon rivers in Nova Scotia, a popular spot for anglers and nature lovers for decades, it hosted baseball legend Babe Ruth almost a century ago.
For nature lovers, the museum features displays on the wood turtle, birds, but terflies, bats, and other native species. Learn about fishing and conservation through an audiovisual presentation. It’s close to a provincial picnic park and nature trails. Open June 1- Sept
30, Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.; July and Aug., daily, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Stanfest (stanfest.com) is roaring back in Canso from July 25 to 28, showcasing
Canadian and worldwide grassroots musicians of all genres. Launched in 1997 to honour the eponymous Canadian folk singer, the event is formally named the Stan Rogers Folk Festival. With an abundance of international talent, it draws 10,000 music fans annually to this perfect little village, perched one of North America’s easternmost promontories. This year’s scheduled performers include The Once, the Hello Crows, Terra Spencer, Shiretown, J.P. Cormier, and Dave Gunning.
Eclectic treasures and an ocean backdrop
Culture, cuisine, and natural wonders aplenty— discover why the South Shore is an enduring favourite for visitors
By Barry RuegerSummer in Nova Scotia begins at the edge of the Atlantic. Splash in the surf or soak up the sun on the beautiful white sand beach of Summerville Beach Provincial Park (tinyurl. com/2w62d7jj) or enjoy a day on the deck of the historic Bluenose II in Lunenburg (bluenose.novascotia.ca).
Check the schedule to make sure it’s in port; it often sails during summer. Or you can just relax at the White Point
Beach Resort (whitepoint.com) and experience the most incredible sunrises and sunsets that you’ll ever see, plus some of the region’s finest dining.
The ocean is the backdrop to everything you’ll enjoy on the South Shore. Follow the Lighthouse Route southwest from Halifax to historic Lunenburg to visit the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic (fisheriesmuseum.novascotia.ca),
a UNESCO World Heritage site that shares how generations of Nova Scotians earned a living on the waves. At the other end of the route in Shelburne, learn more of Nova Scotia’s heritage at the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre (blackloyalist.novascotia.ca) in Shelburne, which tells the story of refugees who fled the American Revolution and built a new community in Nova Scotia.
From the earliest days of fishing, the ocean has been the heart of life in historic Lunenburg.
History also comes alive at many local fairs and festivals. In Liverpool on June 28 and 29, join the locals to celebrate Privateer Days (privateerdays.ca). See a battle re-enactment, a historic encampment, a rum run, and live music, plus an artisan and crafter’s market.
The whole country celebrates Canada Day (tinyurl.com/ptdjd6r4) on July 1, with fireworks, concerts, and community celebrations in most communities. And next on the calendar is the South Shore’s annual Pride Parade (tinyurl.com/5buzs27f), returning to Bridgewater on July 7.
Explore | SOUTH SHORE
From July 22-28, follow the crowds back to Bridgewater for the South Shore Exhibition (tinyurl.com/ 56cy7mca). Sprawling over 17 hectares, it’s the largest agricultural fair in the province. “The Big Ex,” as locals call it, boasts a midway, competitions, food vendors of all sorts, 4-H exhibits, arts and crafts aplenty, a beer garden, plus the International Horse Pull. And if that doesn’t fit your schedule, keep
trucking west. The Shelburne County Exhibition (tinyurl.com/mkkrnjwe) has agricultural events year-round, with the big exhibition running Aug. 6-10.
Lunenburg has plenty to celebrate too. The 48th annual Lunenburg Craft & Food Festival (tinyurl.com/2wjehshz)
returns July 13-14, showcasing all manner of memorable local creations, and a month later, hear the finest of East Coast
music at the Lunenburg Folk Harbour Festival (folkharbour.com) from Aug. 8 -11.
Head inland from the ocean’s shore to learn about Mi’kmaq history at Wildcat Reservation (tinyurl.com/ y67s93c5) or, if your timing is good, see Native artist Todd Labrador in action building birch-bark canoes at Kejimkujik National Park and
Fresh, local, organic Cafe & Eatery
National Historic Site (tinyurl.com/ ycx2hjz4).
Also inland, motorsports fans will find action at the Greenfield Dragway (nsdra. ca). Several weekends each summer they take over the South Shore Regional Airport near Liverpool, using the runway as a dragstrip. Walk the pits, meet the drivers, and thrill to the power of high-performance racing.
The first Europeans arrived in Nova Scotia in the early 17th century, and you can visit museums up and down the coast to learn more history. Near Shelburne, you can explore Nova Scotia’s African heritage at the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre. At Ross Farm Museum in New Ross, explore 24 hectares of rolling land to discover what life was like on a Nova Scotian farm in the 1800s.
Made RIGHT HERE
If you’re an artist or a crafter you’ll feel right at home on the South Shore. Every town has a gallery, and there are some great organizations to visit. The Lunenburg School of the Arts, on Montague Street, offers workshops, and their gallery showcases local artists. Further north the Chester Art Centre has programs for both young people and adults.
In Liverpool you can visit the Andora Gallery and Studios on Main Street to see pottery and paintings. The Village Glassworks in New Germany offers lovely stained glass. Pottery lovers should check out Sand Dollars Pottery in Rose Beach, or Westcote Bell Pottery in LaHave.
Your best bet though is to just watch the side of the backroads for a hand-painted sign offering “Crafts” or “Pottery.” You never know what treasures you’ll discover.
And you won’t want to miss Miller Point Peace Park, the Fort Point Lighthouse, Queens County Museum, the Hank Snow Hometown Museum, the Milton Blacksmith Shop and The Ovens. Learn about these places and others at visitsouthshore.ca/see-and-do.
Looking for music? The Old Confidence Lodge (oldconfidence.ca) in Riverport is a fully accessible music school, concert venue, and recording studio, hosting many public performances. Further south, catch a concert at the Lunenburg Opera House (lunenburgoperahouse.com), visit Liverpool’s Astor Theatre (astortheatre.ns.ca) for music or a movie, and see local and touring musical, dance, and theatrical performances at the Osprey Arts Centre (ospreyartscentre.ca) in Shelburne. If your tastes run to classical music,
the Lunenburg Academy of Music Performance (lampns.ca) has trained classical musicians since 2014, “creating the next generation of outstanding performing artists within the walls of a Canadian architectural treasure.” Check the website for the concert lineup.
Book lovers know that the South Shore has some of the finest bookstores in the Maritimes, and Lunenburg is the place for bibliophiles to start. Michael Higgins, a retired boat builder and carpenter, owns Lunenburg Bound (lunenburgbound.ca) and nearby in the eponymous town, you’ll also find Block Shop Books (blockshopbooks.ca), with both classic and modern offerings, emphasizing Maritime writers. And just down the street, you’ll find an array of used books, many from local authors, at Elizabeth’s Books (tinyurl.com/mr33ph3e).
At LaHave River Books (lahaveriverbooks.ca), on the riverbanks near Bridgewater, you can order a coffee and a baked treat and enjoy your new book on the pier
Spectacular Atmosphere… Surrounded by Ocean
Golf Course and Resturant are open to the public
18 Cove Rd • Lunenburg • NS (902) 634-4260
ww w.bluenosegolfclub.com
outside of their doors. And in Shelburne be sure to drop into Shorebound Books (shoreboundbooks.com), where owner Trasie Sands offers many books and records.
Food for all tastes
Monthly fish and chips dinners or pancake breakfasts help fund many South Shore volunteer fire departments — great places for an inexpensive feed of down-home grub, while mingling with the locals. Watch for signs or ask around.
The Emerald Light Kitchen and Bar (theemeraldlight.ca) in Shelburne celebrates Nova Scotia’s growing fine foods movement with amazing cocktails,
non-alcoholic house made lemonade, and a dynamic menu. It also won the annual South Shore 2024 Lobster RollOff competition, beating out restaurants from all over the region.
In Liverpool, the Main and Mersey Restaurant and Coffee Bar (mainandmerseyhomestore.ca) is a local favourite for pastries and coffee during the day, and Japanese fusion delights for dinner. Watch for the special tasting menus. Lunenburg offers all manner of food choices, with the focus on Atlantic seafood. The waterfront cafés will let you watch the boats move in and out of the harbour but climb up the hill to Montague Street for great small cafés and coffee bars.
Suzie Vinnick ~ and many more!
EVENING PASS $55
Ages 13-25 are half price!
Kids 12 & under are free!
Join us on the South Shore
visitsouthshore.ca
Perk ins Hous e
Best Western Plus Bridgewater Hotel & Convention Center
Heated salt water pool with water slide, complimentary hot breakfast onsite restaurant - 27 South access to multi use trails and much more!
Queens C
ounty Museu m
Queens County Museum
The grand celebration of Perkins House takes place Summer of 2022!
to step inside this architectural gem, built in 1766 by Merchant and Judge, Simeon Perkins Perkins was best known for the remarkable diar y he faithfully kept from 1766 to 1812. Some of the accounts in his diar y provide vivid details of ever yday life in a colonial town when the harbour teemed with Schooners, Captains, Sailors and Privateers In colonial times, Liverpool was a bustling centre of international shipping and trade
Discover the intrigue of Nova Scotian privateers, whom some considered protectors but others called pirates Learn about the impor tant role Perkins played in the local economy and in protecting the settlers during the American Revolution and later wars
you to step inside this architectural gem, built in 1766 by Merchant and Judge, Simeon Perkins Perkins was best known for the remarkable diary he faithfully kept from 1766 to 1812. Some of the accounts in his diary provide vivid details of everyday life in a colonial town when the harbour teemed with Schooners, Captains, Sailors and Privateers In colonial times, Liverpool was a bustling centre of international shipping and Discover the intrigue of Nova Scotian privateers, whom some considered protectors but others called pirates Learn about the important role Perkins played in the local economy and in protecting the settlers during the American Revolution and later wars
Our costumed sta invite you to step inside this architectural gem, built in 1766 by Merchant and Judge, Simeon Perkins. Perkins was best known for the remarkable diary he faithfully kept from 1766 to 1812. Some of the accounts in his diary provide vivid details of everyday life in a colonial town when the harbour teemed with Schooners, Captains, Sailors and Privateers. In colonial times, Liverpool was a bustling centre of international shipping and trade. Discover the intrigue of Nova Scotian privateers, whom some considered protectors but others called pirates. Learn about the important role Perkins played in the local economy and in protecting the settlers during the American Revolution and later wars. Enjoy your stay as you and your family partake in the ongoing programs of the day.
“Giving the Past a Future”
Enjoy your stay as you and your family par take in the ongoing programs of the day
Enjoy your stay as you and your family par take in the ongoing programs of the day
Open daily: June 1 to October 1
Open daily: June 1 to October 1
Monday to Saturday: 9:30am – 5pm
We invite you to explore the rich history of Queens County through our many exhibits featuring local Mi’kmaw culture, shipbuilding, and the history of privateering aboard our interactive ship, the Liverpool Packet. Visit our other nearby sites, Fort Point Lighthouse and the Queens Museum of Justice and Exhibit Centre, as you explore beautiful Liverpool. Check out our website for more information on individual site hours, locations, and events.
Adjacent to Perkins House, we invite you to explore the history o f our County. Come on in and e xperience o ur grea t new interactive Privateer Ship—The Liverpool Packet. Immerse yourself in the life of the Mi'kmaq, and engage in our marine history. Also home of The Thomas Raddall Research Centre. It's all here and more! Giftshop. Admission by donation.
Open daily: June 1 to August 31
Monday to Saturday: 9am – 5pm
Monday to Saturday: 9:30am – 5pm Sunday: 1pm – 5pm
Sunday: 1pm – 5pm
105 Main St., Liverpool, NS B0T1K0
Tel: 902-354-4058
105 Main St., Liverpool, NS B0T1K0 Tel: 902-354-4058
w w w.perkinshouse.novascotia.ca
w w w.perkinshouse.novascotia.ca
Sunday: 1pm – 5pm
Open 6 days a week: September 1 to May 31
Monday to Saturday: 9am-430pm
109 Main St., Liverpool, NS B0T1K0
109 Main St Liverpool , NS Tel: ( 902) 354-4058 wwwqueenscountymuseumcom
Tel: 902-354-4058 • w w w.queenscountymuseum.com
A wonderworld all its own
Travel a mile (or many) along any of Cape Breton’s trails overlooking stunning vistas. History comes alive everywhere in Unama’ki
By Alec BruceUp front and fabulous Cape Breton Highlands National Park (parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ns/cbreton), with entrances on the Cabot Trail at Ingonish Beach and Chéticamp, has been called “one of Nova Scotia’s most enchanting places,” where the mountains meet the sea. Hike and camp within the park. Play a round of golf at Highlands Links. Peruse artisan shops along the way. Book a sea kayaking, cycling, or whale watching tour. In winter, downhill and cross-country skiing, winter hiking, and snowmobiling will continue to delight you along the 298-kilometre Cabot Trail (shorturl.at/mzOTX). Rising from the sea, clinging to mountains, its roadways, paths, and stairs take you from
ocean vistas to quaint fishing villages. You can do it in an afternoon but it’s best to plan several days to experience the journey of a lifetime along one of the world’s most scenic drives. The best views come if you start in Ingonish Beach and proceed counter clockwise through the Highlands. With its charming seaside setting, distinctive Acadian culture, boutiques, and seafood restaurants, Chéticamp is the perfect place to conclude your adventure and recharge.
In Baddeck (in the centre of Cape Breton just off the Trans-Canada Highway, 90 kilometres from the Canso Causeway), take the White Glove Tour of Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site (parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/grahambell).
Join a small group in the White Glove Room for a rare glimpse into the oft-overlooked personal lives of the famous inventor and his loving wife, Mabel. Artifacts include Bell’s favourite jacket, a personal notebook, and a walking stick with an interesting backstory.
Peer into the singular heart and mind of the man who helped shape the modern world. Open May-October, daily, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.
In October 1902, the Italian warship Carlo Alberto, carrying copper aerials and one Guglielmo Marconi, arrived in Sydney. Wealthy patrons there pledged $80,000 (almost $3 million in today’s money) to finance his planned transmitter in Cape Breton. At the Marconi National Historic Site (parks.canada. ca/lhn-nhs/ns/marconi) in Glace Bay, see the roots of modern communications and learn how this man and his machine changed everything. Open July-Sept, daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
North America’s only living history
museum for Gaelic language and culture is here at Highland Village Museum | Baile nan Gàidheal (highlandvillage. novascotia.ca). This folk-life centre illustrates the story, culture, and identity of Nova Scotia Gaels. On a breathtaking
17-hectare property overlooking majestic Bras d’Or Lake in Iona, the heart of Cape Breton Island, the 11 historic buildings are staffed with first-person, costumed animators who are passionate about sharing Gaelic culture and identity. Buildings open seasonally; you can amble the grounds year-round.
Tried and always true
Nestled along the Bras d’Or Lake in Cape Breton’s rolling heartland, where the highlands meet the lowlands, is Eskasoni Cultural Journeys (eskasoniculturaljourneys.ca). Pjila’si! Welcome! Discover authentic Mi’kmaw culture along the picturesque 2.4-ki-
BRING CAPE BRETON HOME
VISIT OUR GALLERY SHOP AT 322 CHARLOTTE STREET, SYDNEY, TO FIND QUALITY CRAFT BY MORE THAN 110 CAPE BRETON ARTISANS.
lometre trail on Goat Island. A true acknowledgement of the life of the Mi’kmaq, historically and modern day, it invites visitors to share in a unique story while preserving Native culture. Open May-Oct, Monday to Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m.; evenings and weekends by appointment.
All rooms have private ensuites Breakfast included June to October Centrally located www.pepperellplace.ca for best prices 9383
A short drive is perfect for a weekend getaway or staycation
Membertou Heritage Park (membertouheritagepark.com) in Sydney is a two-hectare site also offering immersion into an ancient culture. Experience the stories and oral history of the Membertou Community through enactments and cultural presentations. Take a little piece of authentic Canadian tradition home with you from the Petroglyphs Gift Shop, which specializes in Aboriginal arts and crafts, and carries an assortment of traditional and contemporary Mi’kmaw wares made in Atlantic Canada. Open June-Oct, Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.4:30 p.m. and Sunday and evenings by appointment; November-May, Monday to Friday, 9 a.m.-4:30 p.m.
Bras d’Or Lake UNESCO Biosphere Reserve (blbra.ca) is an international showcase for “how to do it right,” with designation from UNESCO’s Man and the Biosphere Program. Discover solutions that balance the conservation of the natural environment with sustainable use. Stretching around the Bras d‘Or Lake, covering over 3,500 square kilometres of forest and watery ecosystems, it includes Baddeck, Dundee, St. Peter’s, and Iona, plus the First
Nations communities of We’koqma’q, Wagmatcook, Membertou, Eskasoni, and Potlotek. It’s a testament to community-based economic development. Embrace the environmental, economic, and cultural mission to improve balance in the biosphere by encouraging community capacity building, conservation efforts, and sustainable development.
Travel to the 1700s at Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site (parks. canada.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/louisbourg).
Home to a transplanted French community, it flourished for less than half a century, and then British forces conquered it. Archaeological excavation has yielded millions of artifacts and the ruins of fortifications and buildings.
Some 750,000 pages of documents and 500 maps and plans are copied from archives in France, England, Scotland, the United States, and Canada. Chat with reenactors: French soldiers, sailors, and servants while sipping Fortress rum and watching lacemaking. See children play 300-year-old games as stew simmers on an openhearth fire. The site reveals much about life at Louisbourg and provides an excellent base for the study of the French in North America. Open Oct. 15-May 18, Monday to Friday, 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.; May 20-June 30, daily, 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m.; July 1-Sept. 13, daily, 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m.
Foodie ESSENTIALS
For more than 30 years, Taste of Nova Scotia has inspired visitors and locals to eat and drink well as they roam the province. Discover vineyards and breweries, the perfect seafood chowder or lobster roll — food adventures await. The mobile app (shorturl.at/quvwB) makes it easy.
For more Taste of Nova Scotia offerings across the province, visit the Nova Scotia Culinary Trails sites: Good Cheer Trail (goodcheertrail.com), Chowder Trail (novascotiachowdertrail.com), and Lobster Trail (novascotialobstertrail.com).
CAN’T MISS: Celtic Colours
Returning from Oct. 11-19, Celtic Colours (celtic-colours.com) is a beloved autumn experience for visitors and locals alike.
The international festival is a unique celebration of Cape Breton Island’s living traditional culture. Hundreds of events and activities in communities across the island include concerts with some of the world’s finest roots musicians sharing the stage with Cape Breton’s best singers, dancers, players, and storytellers. Venues range from community halls and churches to modern schools and theatres.
With up to eight concerts a day, it’s impossible to see and hear everything, so festival organizers “take special care in the programming of each concert so that it is possible to get a taste of all that the festival has to offer on any given day.” Whether it’s Gaelic singing, Cape Breton fiddling, local dance traditions, or world-class bagpiping, tailor your musical experiences to suit your tastes.
This festival is hugely popular, so it’s best to make your bookings early, but if you’re feeling spontaneous, the vast schedule gives you ample opportunity to jump in.
STAYCATION
We thank all our readers for sharing their East Coast vacation pictures and stories during our 2023 Subaru and Saltscapes Staycation Contest!
Congratulations to our grand prize winner Robyn Houle from New Brunswick. Robyn will enjoy a brand new Subaru two-year lease.
“Every year the Atlantic Balloon Fiesta takes place in September, just after the long weekend. It’s amazing to see so many balloons floating in one place!”
— Robyn HouleGRAND PRIZE WINNER
Balloon Fiesta Sussex, N.B.
Whether it was a city, cultural, or culinary getaway with your sweetie, a relaxing, and remote cottage rendezvous, rediscovering a great annual festival, a long overdue party with friends and family, or going for a beach hike at a trail you’ve always wanted to visit, we enjoyed each of your submissions highlighting everything our beautiful Atlantic provinces have to o er.
Visit Saltscapes.com for ongoing contests.
Thank you for celebrating Canada’s East Coast together in 2023!
Go windswept, wild, or weird — Nova Scotia’s great outdoors
Adventure calls this summer, from glamping on the South Shore to helicopter rides in Halifax to running the Shubie bore to gondola dropping in Cape Breton
By Alec BruceGetting there from here has never been more thrilling thanks to Heli-Picnic Island Escape (tinyurl. com/mreycbnd) by Halifax’s Vision Air. Helicopter tours over Nova Scotia’s breathtaking coastline will bring you to Sambro Island. Explore a secluded cove before settling in beside the lighthouse for a tasty picnic, featuring charcuterie and cheese sourced locally, all hosted by your sommelier. Guests travel in groups of two to four passengers. Wear comfortable walking shoes and dress for the weather/season.
High-flying adventurers may also appreciate roughing it on the ground in style. Pamper yourself with a LaHave Island Glamping (tinyurl. com/ya4srr4e) sojourn at Bell’s Cove, between Bridgewater and Lunenburg. The adventure begins with a paddle to the island campsite where everything is provided. Foodies will love it. Indulge in fresh fruits de mer and local flavours prepared seaside. Try yoga on stand-up paddleboards. The package includes an experienced certified guide
and a wilderness chef; local delicacies, such as scallops, oysters, lobster, water buffalo mozzarella, sourdough breads, and fresh-baked goods, Maritimefurnished canvas wall tents with off-theground beds, bedding, camp chairs, and ambient lights. Available June 1-Sept. 30.
Kejimkujik National Park and National Historic Site, tinyurl.com/ ma4x9t7v), a short drive from Liverpool, Bridgewater, Digby, and Annapolis, in the heart of southwestern Nova Scotia, offers visitors backcountry woodlands, lakes, and rivers.
Canoe to one of the waterways used by the native Mi’kmaq, whose ancestors lived here for thousands of years. Discover Native petroglyphs. Hike or bike one of Kejimkujik’s 12 day-hiking trails, which are open year-round. Visitors can also set up at one of the many campsites throughout the park, including serviced sites with electricity. The Royal Astronomical Society of Canada named Keji a Dark-Sky Preserve in 2010; it’s a stargazer’s dream, with many clear nights offering unparalleled views of the heavens. Park services vary through the year; check the website.
For another spectacular panorama, spend the day at Cape Split (tinyurl. com/mw7te5c9) at the end of Highway 358 near Scots Bay. The provincial park sits on the most ecologically intact portion of the North Mountain, a ridge of basalt marking the northern
border of the Annapolis Valley. Hike through mixed forests to lookoffs with stunning views 60 metres above the tide-swept coastline. At the peninsula tip, the trail opens into a meadow revealing iconic sea stacks and basalt pinnacles that the world’s highest tides carved over centuries. Open year-round.
Grab onto your gunnels and get ready for a ride, with Fundy Tides & Fireside Adventure at Shubenacadie Tidal Bore Rafting Resort (raftingcanada.ca) at Urbania, between Halifax and Truro, off Highway 102. With this package you’ll climb into a Zodiac and “shoot” the tidal bore — the riverine surge of the world’s highest tides. When you’re done, test your adventurous spirit again on several kilometres of hiking trails, or enjoy the outdoor swimming pool. Savour a sandbar wine and seafood tasting and an authentic lobster boil at a bonfire capped with live music and an overnight stay in a charming cottage. Open May 1- Oct 31.
At Ingonish in Cape Breton, you can ride Eastern Canada’s only gondola (tinyurl.com/bdf8ezwt) to the top of Cape Smokey, a mountain playground with incredible views over the Highlands and ocean. It’s a year-round destination — skiing, snowboarding, and snowshoeing in winter, plus hiking trails, stunning vistas, kayaking and fun on the water at the marina, plus live music. Whale watching tours are available in summer and autumn.
East, drink, and be a merry Bluenoser
Unique culinary experiences abound in Nova Scotia — discover our favourites from Cape Breton to Halifax to the Acadian Shore to the Annapolis Valley, north and back again
By Alec BruceFor traditional Mi’kmaw-inspired cuisine, don’t miss Kiju’s Restaurant (kijus.com) at 50 Maillard St. in Membertou on Cape Breton Island. “Kiju” means mother. Say the proprietors: “Traditionally, our mothers were the fire keepers who prepared the food that nourished our families. In serving these meals to you, we share our connection to generations past. Kiju’s is committed to fresh ingredients, local offerings, and friendly service.” Try scrumptious Mi’kmaw fry bread, with artichoke parmesan dip and sweet grass molasses. Open daily, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Lupin Restaurant (lupindining.ca) in West Petpeswick, 50 kilometres northeast of Halifax along Highway 7, is a foodie’s paradise. Here, where Maritime cuisine meets Italian and French influences, Executive Chef Kim MacPherson showcases seasonal ingredients from her farm and local Nova Scotian suppliers. Every four or five weeks, a new seven-course menu offers an exclusive dining experience with a focus on fresh seafood, artisanal meats, and hyper-local produce. Do you need reservations? Does a duck quack?
Opens seasonally starting May 17, Friday and Saturday, with one seating at 6 p.m. Only the seven-course menu is offered; no a la carte options.
If you want to know what summer is all about “on the shore,” a stop at The Shore Club (shoreclub.ca) is a must. At, appropriately enough, 250 Shore Club Rd. in Hubbards, 50 kilometres southwest of Halifax along Highway 103, this old-fashioned joint’s been lovingly serving whole, fresh lobster since 1936. You get a pound of mussels with every entrée — in addi-
tion to the lobster, there steak, chicken, tarka dhal (an Indian lentil dish), salad, and fixings. The suppers are world famous. Just ask King Charles. He was here in 1983 when he was only a prince. Open Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. -6 p.m.; Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
New Scotland Brewing Company (newscotlandbrewing.ca) at 91 Alderney Drive on the Dartmouth waterfront is a community-based microbrewery plus a clothing store and music venue. “We combine comfort, style and quality
to earn the loyalty of our community so that you are proud to include New Scotland,” says the website. Aficionados note the exceptional quality of the small-batch beer, mead, and cider. Open most days and evenings.
Boatskeg Distilling Co (boatskeg.ca) in West Pubnico offers premium spirits, canned ready-to-drink beverages, and craft cocktails. It all began with two friends, one of whom had an old boatyard. The other was a descendant of bootleggers. Together, they converted
the boatyard into a distillery and cocktail bar. “We’ve combined the spirit of our bootlegging past with the art of spirits and cocktails to create our version of old-fashioned good times,” they say.
The patio is available June 1- Oct. 29.
Open Wednesday, 12 p.m.-7 p.m.; Thursday-Saturday, 12 p.m.-11 p.m.
The Church Brewing Company, (churchbrewing.ca), housed in an old stone church in downtown Wolfville, offers a carefully curated menu, sourced with seasonal, local ingredients from
From craft beer to fine dining to seafood favourites, Nova Scotia boasts more culinary options than ever.
Annapolis Valley farmers. This food is fun and flavourful, complemented with high-quality, locally brewed beer. Enjoy the picturesque patio inside the restaurant and drop by the market for beer and merch to go. The signature offering is Matriarch’s Chowder: Haddock, shrimp, scallops, potatoes, bacon, and local vegetables in a creamy broth, served with a house-made pretzel. Open Tuesday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Fox Harb’r Resort (foxharbr.com) in Wallace, on the Northumberland Shore off Highway 6, puts its award-winning team of chefs at your disposal, catering “to every taste with seasonally inspired menus showcasing the best of local fare, sustainable and fresh ingredients, and stimulating flavours.” Savour melt-in-your-mouth Atlantic lobster, scrumptious Tatamagouche rack of lamb, superb wines from an exemplary cellar and an assortment of enticing signature desserts. Open year-round, hours vary.
LOCAL SEAFOOD & CRAFT BEER
1869 Upper Water Street, Halifax PICKFORDBLACK.COM
GREAT STEAK. FRESH SEAFOOD. BIG WINE.
1662 Barrington Street, Halifax BARRINGTONSTEAKHOUSE.CA
ON-SITE HANDCRAFTED ALES. UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE. DELICIOUS FOOD.
5239 Sackville Street, Halifax GAHAN.CA
SPECIALITY COFFEE. HOUSE-MADE PASTRIES. CREATIVE CATERING.
1869 Upper Water Street, Halifax
Unique local shopping
Distinctive shops and boutiques showcase Nova Scotia’s heritage
By Ameeta VohraOur province boasts countless unique shopping experiences. From hidden treasures to local favourites, there is something for everyone.
Fisherman’s Cove, Eastern Passage
Open May 1-Dec. 24 fishermanscove.ca
A 20-minute drive from downtown Halifax, Fisherman’s Cove is a hidden gem, boasting a picturesque background and bright-coloured stores.
Shore Things is a family-run shop that sells handmade products made from reclaimed materials from the shore, including driftwood, sand dollars, abandoned lobster traps, and seashells. Kismet Designs has homemade jewelry and clothing. Hen and Goose has locally made dog apparel with sports and character prints. By the Ocean Art creates pebble art using Nova Scotian beach glass, stones, and wood. The 200-year-old fishing village is the perfect place to find Maritime treasures.
Tears of Glass, Inverness
Open June 15-Oct. 31 tearsofglass.ca
Tears of Glass Gallery and Studio creates beautiful and unique jewelry made of naturally unmodified, tumbled sea glass found at local beaches. The store has premade jewelry for sale, but visitors can get custom-made pieces done with their favourite piece of glass. Owner Brenda Reichel puts her personal touch to pieces by wrapping sea glass into metals and gauges while adding Czech glass, gemstones, and crystals to her designs.
Tap Root Fibre Spinning Mill, Greenwich
Open year-round taprootfibre.ca
Tap Root Fibre provides a unique made-in-Nova Scotia experience, using local fibres and dye-plants. Tap Root creates high-quality products made of linen and wool: placemats, totes, and rugs show detailed craftsmanship. The on-site mill also processes wool and linen into yarn.
Seaweed Soap Company, Chester Open year-round seaweedsoapcompany.com
Fresh off the Mahone Bay waters, seaweed, kelp, and Irish moss are used
in the soap products for health benefits and skin hydration. The business also carries beautiful soap dishes from local artisans and shop-made lip balm and salt scrubs.
Sara Bonnyman Pottery, Tatamagouche
Open June 15-Dec. 18 sarabonnymanpottery.com/ mugs-glasses
Sara Bonnyman Pottery provides a unique experience. Visitors can tour her workshop area and see the artist throw pots on her wheel. It’s a welcoming atmosphere where a large, vibrant garden full of plants is the backdrop for her creations. Popular products dinnerware items with fused
glass accents, ship mugs, and Moss Shaving Scuttle mugs for men. Bonnyman also sells fair-trade woven baskets, throws recycled from silk saris, and rug hookings of fish, ice shacks, and sunflowers.
Leather Works by Jolene, Indian Brook, Cape Breton Open year-round leather-works.ca
Along the Cabot Trail is a store with a rustic look and feel that oozes the
smell of leather. The store carries an array of leather bags, belts, and buckets. Flower vases, door handles, and potholders made of leather are must-see products to appreciate the detailed craftsmanship. There is an open workshop where you can see owner and artisan Jolene Dauphney working on leather. Dauphney will give visitors a tour of the workshop.
Tangled Garden, Grand Pré Shop open year-round, garden open from late May-November tangledgarden.ca
Looking for unique foods to take home? The Tangled Garden is the perfect spot. Products look like works of art as the vinegar, oils, chutneys, salsas, and jellies have herbs such as thyme, basil, and fennel liberally throughout. Popular choices include Rose Petal Honey, Tarragon Peppercorn Mustard, and Orange Thyme Jelly. Strawberry Rosemary and Rhubarb Mint are among the exquisite cordial flavours. The Rhubarb Blush Liqueur is crisp and refreshing. Ramble the 24-metre garden labyrinth, adorned with walls of flowers and a clover path. This is also a popular picnic site, with benches where you can soak in the Bay of Fundy’s splendour.
National Historic Site with guided tours and immersive exhibitions.
Plan your visit today Pier21.ca
Lieu historique national avec des visites guidées et des expositions immersives.
Planifiez votre visite aujourd’hui Quai21.ca