Saltscapes Food and Travel 2022

Page 24

The island frozen in time A trip to Battle Harbour is a must-do STORY AND PHOTOS BY DALE DUNLOP

O

ne adventure on many Atlantic Canadians’ bucket lists is a visit to a true Newfoundland and Labrador outport, before they all disappear. Fortunately, there is one in Labrador that is being preserved and rapidly becoming one of the province’s top travel destinations. Battle Harbour was once the unofficial capital of Labrador; it’s now a National Historic Site with its own Historic District where visitors are welcome to stay for a night or more and immerse themselves in the outport experience.

Planning your visit Battle Harbour is not the type of place where you just show up and expect to be accommodated. It is located on an island 14.5 kms. from the village of Mary’s Harbour, on the southeast coast of Labrador, and is only accessible by boat. Mary’s Harbour is more than a two-hour drive from Blanc Sablon, Quebec, where the

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ferry from St. Barbe, Newfoundland lands. St. Barbe in turn is a six-hour drive from Port aux Basques, or over three hours from Deer Lake airport. There is only one boat departure a day to Battle Harbour. The Trinity Pride departs at 11am and it is impossible to connect with it on the same day as you arrive in Labrador, so you must stay at least one night in Labrador before arriving at Mary’s Harbour. The upside is that there are a lot of things to see and do in this part of Labrador, so plan on making this at least a four-day trip. Before leaving home, you must visit the website listed below and make reservations for your accommodations, select the activities you wish to participate in and save your spot on the Trinity Pride. There are a wide variety of places to stay, from the semi-luxurious Earle Suite to an old-fashioned bunkhouse. It’s not easy getting to Battle Harbour—but trust me, it’s absolutely worth the effort.

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

The Battle Harbour experience The trip from Mary’s Harbour takes over an hour and is the start of a great adventure as you look for whales, dolphins, seals and a variety of sea birds. The arrival in Battle


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ADVERTISING What Will Your #MaritimeFerry Adventure Look Like?

2min
pages 90-92

ADVERTISING: Join us on a Bay of Fundy adventure

2min
page 89

ADVERTISING: The CAT is coming back— and we’re faster than ever

1min
page 88

ADVERTISING Maritime Adventures from Ship to Shore

2min
pages 86-87

Of giant lobsters and drunken lampposts

4min
pages 83-85

Gaol bird tour

3min
page 80

Ecclefechan Tart from Birkinshaw’s Tea Room & Coffee House

2min
page 79

Border town twins

4min
pages 77-78

Canvas crush

7min
pages 74-76

Hot Lobster Sandwich Clara Harris style

2min
page 73

Don’t stop for winter

2min
page 72

Quark Cheesecake from Ran-Cher Acres

2min
page 71

Say cheese Atlantic Canada!

3min
pages 69-70

Beyond the ordinary

6min
pages 66-68

Island Hill Farm Breakfast Sandwich

1min
page 61

From royal fries to championship seafood

4min
pages 62-63

Dinosaur Island

5min
pages 64-65

Milk ‘n’ Make

4min
pages 58-60

Foodie days

5min
pages 54-55

Back to Birchtown Chutney

2min
page 40

Victorian gardens

4min
pages 51-53

Smoked Haddock Fishcakes from Seawind Landing

1min
page 50

“Here to stay”

4min
pages 48-49

Treading lightly

6min
pages 41-43

Cadillacs, cannons and sea caves

5min
pages 44-47

The missing chapter

4min
pages 38-39

Bridget’s Breakfast Risotto

2min
page 37

Two shores—two UNESCO gems

4min
pages 33-36

Three of the most popular French fry sauce recipes from Potato World

4min
pages 9-10

Potato road

2min
page 8

Well worth a side trip

4min
pages 26-27

Of gannets and Basques

4min
pages 28-29

The “great equalizer”

4min
pages 14-16

The island frozen in time

4min
pages 24-25

The country of the washerwoman

1min
page 6

Acadian Molasses Cake

3min
page 7
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