Saltscapes Food and Travel 2022

Page 64

Dinosaur Island PEI’s new fossil hunting tour STORY AND PHOTOS BY DARCY RHYNO

I

’m standing on a 10-metre-long tree trunk that fell 300 million years ago. It’s wide at the base and stretches out as straight as it was tall. The top is nowhere to be seen among the ordinary rocks on this rough red beach, but it must have been a giant in a forest of giants. “Pretty crazy,” says geologist Laura MacNeil. “Here we have PEI’s largest fossil. It starts right here and goes all the way to...” She takes a dozen steps from the base of the tree to where I’m standing. “To here. It’s a very cool site. I never get sick of seeing these fossils.” MacNeil has worked as an interpreter at Joggins Fossil Cliffs in Nova Scotia and the Royal Tyrrell Museum in Alberta. After returning home to the island, she started Prehistoric Island Tours. Today’s group tour is at a location she prefers not to disclose. Unlike those other famous Canadian locations, PEI has no natural history museum. The most significant of the recent discoveries on the island are in storage at PEI

National Park, but with no other resources, she fears sites like this could suffer from too much public attention. This 75-minute tour is the only way to see them. The tree I’m standing on, she tells us, is Walchia. “It’s literally the earliest known conifer tree in the rock record. Handing around an artist’s rendition of the living tree, she adds, “If you’ve ever heard of a Norfolk Island Pine, they look very similar.

We’ve found some fronds from the tree on PEI, but they’re softer and you need special conditions to preserve them.” A boy on the tour runs up to MacNeil with a handful of fossilized wood. Two species are quite common on this beach— Walchia and a type of tree fern. Everyone on today’s tour has found at least a few pieces of both. Fossils of the two species look completely different from each other. Tree fern fossils often have sets of tightly packed circles, which hint at the ancient growth patterns. Rather than trunks, tree ferns stand upright on small roots bound together. When these trees fell, PEI was a steaming swamp in the middle of the supercontinent, Pangea. “Imagine you’re standing right here 300 million years ago,” MacNeil says. “The temperature is 40°C. The closest

Scouring the beach for fossils on Prehistoric Island Tours. Top: cast of a pre-dinosaur creature that lived on what is now PEI.

64

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND


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ADVERTISING What Will Your #MaritimeFerry Adventure Look Like?

2min
pages 90-92

ADVERTISING: Join us on a Bay of Fundy adventure

2min
page 89

ADVERTISING: The CAT is coming back— and we’re faster than ever

1min
page 88

ADVERTISING Maritime Adventures from Ship to Shore

2min
pages 86-87

Of giant lobsters and drunken lampposts

4min
pages 83-85

Gaol bird tour

3min
page 80

Ecclefechan Tart from Birkinshaw’s Tea Room & Coffee House

2min
page 79

Border town twins

4min
pages 77-78

Canvas crush

7min
pages 74-76

Hot Lobster Sandwich Clara Harris style

2min
page 73

Don’t stop for winter

2min
page 72

Quark Cheesecake from Ran-Cher Acres

2min
page 71

Say cheese Atlantic Canada!

3min
pages 69-70

Beyond the ordinary

6min
pages 66-68

Island Hill Farm Breakfast Sandwich

1min
page 61

From royal fries to championship seafood

4min
pages 62-63

Dinosaur Island

5min
pages 64-65

Milk ‘n’ Make

4min
pages 58-60

Foodie days

5min
pages 54-55

Back to Birchtown Chutney

2min
page 40

Victorian gardens

4min
pages 51-53

Smoked Haddock Fishcakes from Seawind Landing

1min
page 50

“Here to stay”

4min
pages 48-49

Treading lightly

6min
pages 41-43

Cadillacs, cannons and sea caves

5min
pages 44-47

The missing chapter

4min
pages 38-39

Bridget’s Breakfast Risotto

2min
page 37

Two shores—two UNESCO gems

4min
pages 33-36

Three of the most popular French fry sauce recipes from Potato World

4min
pages 9-10

Potato road

2min
page 8

Well worth a side trip

4min
pages 26-27

Of gannets and Basques

4min
pages 28-29

The “great equalizer”

4min
pages 14-16

The island frozen in time

4min
pages 24-25

The country of the washerwoman

1min
page 6

Acadian Molasses Cake

3min
page 7
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