African Diver Issue 21

February - March 2012 | Issue 21

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Aliwal Shoal Edition 2 0 1 2 - G e t t o k n o w t h e S h o a l

Yo u r F r e e O n l i n e D i v i n g M a g a z i n e

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Contents REGULARS

3

Ed’s Logbook

80

Aliwal Shoal Cover Photographed by Allen Walke r

Editors:

Published by:

Cormac McCreesh & Paul Hunter

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5

A tribute to Aliwal Shoal

Fiona Ayerst

Destinations 62

Maldives

Conservation 56

Penguin Promises

72

Sustainable Seas Trust

www.africandiver.com

Fax: 086 503 7177

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Contents

E d’s Logbook I relocated from Johannesburg to Durban last year, to be closer to the sea and to dive more. It was an inspired move that blew the cobwebs of over 30 years of Johannesburg out of my system. I rediscovered the city of my youth where I first donned a mask, snorkel and fins.

Finding myself back in Durban led to me doing more dives on Aliwal Shoal and re-discovering the delights the Shoal (as it is also commonly known) has to offer. It was a natural step to dedicate this issue to promoting the Shoal as a premier diving destination in southern Africa Lying in a transition zone of tropical and temperate marine waters, Aliwal Shoal is home to an interesting collection of tropical and warm temperate marine species. Mostly known for its ragged-tooth and tiger sharks the Shoal serves up a full range of species that will suit every diver ’s tastes from macro subjects to fish of all sizes.

On a good day, there’s nothing to beat diving the Shoal. Blue waters, an abundance of species, interesting topography and wrecks. The Shoal offers it all: baited diving with tiger and black tip sharks, open water diving with ragged-tooth sharks, exploring and penetrating wrecks and observing myriad species of tropical and temperate fish.

The Shoal is an exciting melting pot of species, pioneering divers and dive operators, characters and seascapes. It is a diving destination that is a must-visit at least once ... and maybe more than once.

Our Aliwal feature dominates this issue and we hope you’ll find the other articles of interest too. We’ve chosen to feature two of our favourite conservation groups alongside an article on the Maldives and our featured photographer, Fiona Ayerst.

We hope you enjoy this issue, safe diving and may your bubbles always be free.

Cormac

Co n t e n t s

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African Diver Special Feature

Aliwal Shoal

2012

An African Diver feature exploring the famous diving of the Aliwal Shoal.

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History of Aliwal Shoal

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Aliwal Shoal The Evolution of a World-class Dive Site

Written by: Jo Young

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History of Aliwal Shoal

In a previous life, when the river mouth

It wasn’t until the 80s that divers began

was much deeper and wider, Umkomaas

to make the four-hour trip by boat from

was selected as a port to service Durban to

Durban.

the north. Unfortunately, the treacherous

persuaded local fishermen (Bob and

river mouth claimed many vessels in the

Anthony Janssens and Clive Holme)

1900s, as did the neighbouring shoal.

to take them out when the fish weren’t biting.

Later,

divers

from

Durban

Neither a four-hour boat trip

Umkomaas persevered over the years

nor fishy gear lent itself to long-term

until Aliwal Shoal was commercialized,

sustainability, so in the late eighties the

and the small town was rejuvenated as a

first commercial operation opened its

dive destination.

doors.

The shoals’ namesake didn’t actually

A few years afterwards, numerous other

come to grief on the reef, but the captain of

operations set up shop in Umkomaas

the Aliwal was the first to communicate the

and its surrounds, and Aliwal Shoal was

presence of the dangerously shallow reef

reinvented as a dive destination. Many

to other mariners. For this good deed the

of the original operators remain in town

shoal was named Aliwal Shoal.

today, albeit working with different operations.

The discovery of Aliwal Shoal as a prime dive spot is said to have arisen from

The hard-hulled boats of the era proved

salvage operations on the Aimee Lykes in

challenging

to

navigate

out

of

the

1963. People did dive the Shoal in the 60s

river mouth, but they were preferable

and 70s, but it was spear fishermen from

to the fishing boats. The river mouth

all over South Africa that made use of the

remains challenging to navigate and the

location for its immense numbers of game

Umkomaas skippers are some of the best

fish, reef fish and sharks.

in the world.

Photo by: Allen Walker

Co n t e n t s

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History of Aliwal Shoal

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Even a brief history of Aliwal Shoal is not complete without mentioning the sinking of the Produce.

On a winter ’s day in 1974, the ship hit the shoal and started to sink quickly.

A

dramatic

rescue

followed

as

two

commercial ski-boats, a South African Air Force helicopter and the S.A. Oranjeland rescued survivors.

Two local fishermen, Clive Home and Anthony Janssens (later dive operators), risked their lives in rough seas and rescued the crew members from their skiboat as the townspeople looked on from the shore.

Newspaper articles from the time can still be seen around the town and the Produce remains one of the most popular dive sites in South Africa.

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Aliwal Shoal

History of Aliwal Shoal

“one of the top 10 dive sites worldwide.”

Over the years Aliwal Shoal has been promoted as, “one of the top 10 dive sites worldwide.” Although this could very easily be argued, (and we ain’t saying it isn’t so) it stems from a myth that Cousteau proclaimed it to be true.

Local dive pioneer Mark Addison clarifies, “He never said it. Not even sure where it came from. In 1968 and 1972, my father, Brent Addison, hosted the Cousteau team on Calypso.

They did not dive Aliwal.

In 1993, I hosted the scouting for the Cousteau team at Aliwal. In 1994/95, the team came to South Africa… making two shows… Capt. Cousteau had still not dived Aliwal and he does not mention any “top 10” rating in the narrative of either of the two films.

In 1996 he was to come out to meet Mandela and I was to meet him in Capetown. Unfortunately he contracted pneumonia, and that was the beginning of the end, which came on the 25th June 1997. On his deathbed he very kindly signed a copy of his book, Ocean World, thanking me for the collaboration, but that was it.”

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Aliwal Shoal - Planning your trip

Photo by: Ivan van Heerden

Aliwal Shoal Planning your trip

Written by Jo Young Pa g e 1 1 | www.africandiver.com

Contents

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Photo by: Allen Walker

Aliwal Shoal - Planning your trip

The Basics This reef and its surrounds boast both coral and rocky reef species, wreck dives, ragged-tooth sharks (raggies) and open-water tiger shark diving! An hour south of Durban, Aliwal Shoal is ideally located for easy land or air access and the opportunity to enjoy everything else Kwa-zulu Natal has to offer IF you can tear yourself away from all the shoal has to offer.

Aliwal Shoal sits five kilometres offshore, but the trip out of the river mouth alone can be quite eventful, just like the diving. The entire area has been designated a Marine Protected Area (MPA) so you will need a SCUBA permit. What this means for your dive is that boats cannot drop anchor. This makes drift diving the norm. The dive master carries a buoy on a line, which skippers use to locate your group. As the current carries you along you will get to enjoy some of the best diving in South Africa, if not the world as a smorgasbord of species is presented to you as you drift along.

Co n t e n t s

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Aliwal Shoal - Planning your trip

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

When to visit the Shoal Aliwal Shoal is well known for its dynamic moods.

The seasonal exceptions are mainly the pelagics, which

Its behaviour is governed by the Agulhas current and

pass by during their migrations. The docile raggies arrive

inshore of this force of nature the local, but intermittent,

in May/June – which coincides with the start of the

Natal Pulse.

sardine run – and they stay until summer. Interestingly, individuals have been sticking around well into the

Some days Aliwal offers 25-metre visibility in calm water, while other days it presents you with a screaming

summer months of late. The warmer months also bring the tiger sharks.

current and 5-metre visibility. The visibility is affected by river runoff and disturbed sediment.

A trip to Aliwal in the summer means you get to enjoy the sub-tropical climes of Kwa-zulu Natal. The winter

Aliwal’s mood dictates the dive site you will get to enjoy on any given day, but there is always an option to

climate is just as pleasant - cooler but dryer – although cold fronts may mean cold weather.

suit the conditions and something for someone at every level. The sea is generally calmer in the summer with less wind.

Sea temperatures rise to around 27C in summer and fall to around 21C in winter. A five mm wetsuit is suggested at any time of year due to the local water movements,

The diving is excellent all year around - most of the

which may drag colder, deeper water inshore.

residents inhabit the reef all year around.

Co n t e n t s

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Aliwal Shoal - Planning your trip

The Sardine Run Photo taken by Andrew Woodburn Pa g e 1 4 | www.africandiver.com

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The sardine run is said to be the largest biomechanical event on Earth, surpassing that of the Serengeti

along the coast locate the sardines, and the dive operators in turn use the gannets to hone in on the action.

migration.

Once located the gannets rain down en masse in an Nonetheless, it remains less well known. A range

aerial assault. The sharks sense the action and on arrival

extension – don’t call it a migration - that occurs during

dart through the bait ball. Then the whales arrive on

the winter months, the action begins in June when the

the scene and gulp massive mouthfuls of the nutritious

ocean currents change and allow the silvery fish to

fish with each pass. For this reason, and so you’re not

follow a cold slither of water up the eastern coast of

mistaken as food, it is advisable for divers to stay at the

South Africa.

periphery of the bait ball.

If the conditions are not to their liking, the sardines

Although this annual diving sensation is more

do not “run,” remaining in deeper, colder water

commonly associated with Port St. Johns further down

offshore. Unfortunately, their behaviour cannot be

the coast, it does occur in the waters around Aliwal as

predicted, so divers should take this into account

the sardines stream northward.

when booking travel.

Additionally, it was residents of Umkomaas who first When the run does occur bait balls only last up to 20 minutes – divers must be prepared to enter the

pioneered diving amongst the mêlée of sardine, dolphins, sharks, gannets and whales.

water quickly - as the predators pick away at the sardines (Sardinops sagax) mouthful by mouthful until it disappears.

Local filmmaker and dive operator Mark Addison and South African wildlife filmmaker Peter Lamberti, upon a request from the BBC, shot some of the first bait ball

The sardines are corralled into densely packed swirling groups by the dolphins. Gannets patrolling

Co n t e n t s

footage that resulted in the film “The Greatest Shoal on Earth.” This label stuck

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Photo by: Allen Walker

Aliwal Shoal - Planning your trip

Dive Operators Umkomaas houses between 8-10 operators at any one time, so dive sites may get crowded in the winter when groups converge to see the seasonally resident raggies. Until recently, some of these dive operators worked out of Gazebo’s on the beach, similar to the system found in Sodwana – the other popular South African dive site near the Mozambique border.

Nowadays you can find luxury B & B’s and basic lodge-style accommodation. Restrictions sometimes dictate that you must stay with an operator to dive with them.

You may also find accommodation-only lodging that ties you to their chosen operator. However, there are some great options and most of the dive master ’s have extensive experience on the shoal, which is essential due to the challenging dive conditions.

Conditions ensure that equipment takes a beating, especially launching out of the river mouth, so make sure you select an outfit that is diligent about equipment care and safety. You will need experienced people for a truly great dive on Aliwal, so obviously choose accordingly.

Co n t e n t s

The operators have agreed on minimum dive prices, but differ, especially when it comes to accommodation options.

Each operator offers a shark diving experience, such as getting up close and personal with the raggies or baiting tiger sharks.

When baiting, some use the traditional washing machine drum method, but some have moved to a more shark-tooth friendly set up referred to as ZIBS (Zero Impact Baiting System).

Find out from your operator whether the daily schedule changes when a bait dive is planned. The longer the bait is in the water the greater the number of sharks that converge.

If you’re rushing back for the boat to head out with the next dive group you might not get the same experience as you would with an operator that allows ½ day, or heads out to drag a line before you even join them, allowing you to fit in another dive while they are doing all the hard work.

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Aliwal Shoal - Planning your trip

Photo by: Brett Louw

The Launch

Written by BJ Holtshauzen

One of the highlights of diving Aliwal Shoal is actually the boat trip out to the reef.

The normal luxury live-aboard, or cruiser, is not quite what you should expect. Instead, a medium-sized open eight metre R.I.B. (Rigid Inflatable Boat), or dive duck, loaded with 11 divers gripping onto ropes, is skilfully launched by a skipper through what is classified as one of the most difficult launch sites in the world, the Umkomaas River.

The launches are weather and tide dependent, you just never know what you’re going get. For this reason the skipper / coxswain, really has to know what they are doing.

Skill and fast hand-to-eye coordination is imperative, as they have to negotiate huge waves and massive sand banks, along with many other “exciting” obstacles. For them the launch is like a real life playstation game at its best.

The river mouth takes no prisoners and is definitely not for the faint hearted, but at the end of all the thrills, hopefully without the spills, awaits the famed Aliwal Shoal.

Co n t e n t s

During winter, when there is less rain, the river mouth may silt up. The skipper may then choose a beach launch. The preference is for a river launch to avoid pushing the boat off the beach.

Once the divers are intensely briefed by their dive master they are welcomed on board by the skipper. This is followed by a stern and serious briefing on the do’s and don’ts of the launch. What you can expect to be told is, “Please ensure that you hook your feet into the foot straps, sit upright on the pontoons, hold on very tight with two hands on the ropes behind you, lean back and not forward so you don’t knock your head on the tank rack, and only relax once we are through the surf zone.” Then you get to do the whole thing in reverse on the return trip. It’s rare that a dive boat tips over but when it does happen it is usually due to equipment issues (such as engine problems) not skipper error.

After hearing this type of briefing you’ll know that there is something special waiting just around the corner. There are two ways that you can experience this wonderful place, and that is in ultra-calm conditions or in “adventure” conditions; Most of the time it’s the latter.

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Aliwal Shoal - Raggies

Photo by: Allen Walker

Aliwal Shoal Diving with Raggies

Written by Jo Young Pa g e 1 8 | www.africandiver.com

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Aliwal Shoal - Raggies

It’s a no-brainer as to where the raggies got their name, with their mouthful crammed full of seemingly haphazardly placed teeth. Known as grey nurse sharks or sand tiger sharks in Australia and the US respectively, ragged-tooth sharks seems the most apropos.

The most famous [seasonal] resident of

Aliwal Shoal are the main attraction for many divers.

Juvenile raggies arrive at the shoal during austral winter when the cooler water temperatures brought in from the shifting aghulas currents allows. Adult females also arrive at the shoal in early winter (June) to mate on their way up the coast towards northern South Africa and Mozambique.

Unfortunately, those that wait until the warmer months may encounter shark nets on their migration, and if entangled few survive.

The sharks are fully protected within the Aliwal Shoal MPA, but fishing and shark nets have placed them on the IUCN threatened species list. There have long been concerns that diving pressure may impact the raggies at Aliwal Shoal, and sightings are declining.

Dive operators have established a code of conduct. These practices protect the raggies but also ensure a successful dive - if success means a close encounter with a raggie.

Remember that shark physiology means they can sense you even if they cannot see you visually. Don’t go to them. Do not enter any of the ledges.

And remember the sharks always have right of way.

The main sites for raggies sightings are NE potholes, raggie cave, cathedral and chunnel. Some of these areas have narrow entrances so don’t block them. Remember your bubbles also act as a barrier, so position yourself accordingly.

Photo by: Ivan van Heerden

Move slowly, breathe slowly (to reduce

Individuals still pass through during early spring and some stay until summer; at the time of writing - January 2012 - a few individuals still remain. Their arrival coincides with the sardine run, so fortunately shark nets along the eastern coast of South Africa are removed, allowing the sharks to travel up the coast.

Co n t e n t s

bubbles), and don’t shine lights towards them.

The sharks rest during the day but if you hang nearby, they may come and investigate you when their curiosity gets the better of them.

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Aliwal Shoal - Raggies

The following is reproduced from the “Aliwal Shoal Dive Guide” with the permission of the author, Jenifer Goldberg.

Raggie Respect 10 points for a great raggie dive 1. Get your dive leader to provide a shark-dive briefing.

2. Give the sharks space by not approaching closer than

three meters. If a shark is relaxed it may close the gap.

3. Relax, maintain buoyancy, breathe slowly and evenly and don’t make any sudden movements that might startle the sharks.

4. Observe the sharks but don’t disturb them by attempting to touch, chase or ride them.

5. Don’t attract sharks with chum (ground-bait), or feed sharks.

6. Use torches, camera flashes and strobes with discretion.

Do not shine lights into the sharks’ eyes.

8. Do not descend on top of sharks, block their exits or corner them in any way.

9. Do not enter into the core areas of Cathedral, Raggie Cave and Chunnel Cave. Rather obseve the sharks from the recommended vantage points at the

peripheries of these areas. Do not do training skills or scratch for sharks teeth on the associated sand

patches. Do not disturb the sharks in other possible rest areas, including overhangs near Anvil Rock,

North Sands, the sand patches at Raggie Cave and Chunnel and the northern recess at Raggies Cave.

10. During peak times limit your dive time to fifteen

minutes at Cathedral, Raggie Cave and Chunnel

Cave. The number of dive groups should preferably be limited to two per dive site.

7. Give the sharks right of way. Avoid head-on approaches

by moving out of their path. In strong currents pass over or around the sharks, not through them.

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Photo by: Ivan van Heerden

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Aliwal Shoal - Raggies

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Photo by: Robert Pakiela

Aliwal Shoal - Tiger Sharks

Aliwal Shoal

Tiger Shark Diving - My experience and history of diving with the tigers of Aliwal Shoal Article by Walter Bernadis Pa g e 2 2 | www.africandiver.com

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Aliwal Shoal - Tiger Sharks

Around 2000, I was approached to host Nigel Marvin from “Discovery” and try to attract tiger sharks using bait. Until then, the only baiting I had done was with the raggies. To add to the challenge, I only had 3 days to complete the shoot.

I carried; a 30-metre anchor rope, with a buoy attached to the end; a five metre trailing line; and a second buoy, just in case the divers missed the first one. This created a lot of drag, so I had to swim hard and fast to the bottom.

In those early days we didn’t know what to expect when diving with tigers. The literature I read pointed to this animal being very aggressive. The method being used at the time by another Umkomaas local, Mark Addison, was to find a cave that could fit eight people and was shallow enough to give at least one-hour bottom time. Then a tiger shark dive could be attempted with some modicum of safety.

I didn’t always hit the cave on the first dive, and in bad conditions it took up to five dives to get the rope tied off at the cave. Once I had secured the rope, I would surface, grab a sack full of sardines, dive back down again and secure the sack on a ledge near the cave, and then return to the surface once again. I would give everyone a briefing and a conditions report.

pieces into crevices just in front of the cave. In the beginning, I would take some spare bait with me. Big mistake! On one occasion a tiger arrived, smelled the bait, and wanted to join us in the cave.

Luckily we always carried spear guns and I managed to push the shark off and get rid of the bait as fast as possible, just one of many heart-stopping moments for us in those early days.

Our practice became to dive for an hour then swim up the rope, do a safety stop, and surface. We were getting more and more instances where the sharks were still circling outside the cave when we had to

This method took a lot of preparation to get right. In those days GPS was available but quite expensive, so we mostly used triangulation. If you are a hairs breath off one mark, due to rain or smoke or suchlike, it could put you several metres off the location. To find the cave you had to line yourself up on your marks and judge the current so that when you swum down the current carried you to the cave area.

Co n t e n t s

When the divers hit the water they grabbed the rope and pulled themselves to the cave. Sometimes the current was so strong that it took the first buoy down and only the trailing buoy stayed visible.

On days like this we’d never be able to get into the cave at all if it wasn’t for the anchor rope. I would usually take some fresh tuna back down with me and place

leave.

We didn’t know what to expect at first - we were very nervous - but we soon realized that they weren’t acting aggressively towards us. This was when we started realizing that is was possible to dive in open water with tigers.

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Aliwal Shoal - Tiger Sharks

We tried baiting using the same style as the great white cage diving operators. That is, a sack of bait placed over the side to create a “chum line” and teaser bait with a small buoy attached. It wasn’t easy going in those early days and we could bait for anything up to five hours waiting for the tigers.

With perseverance and the knowledge gained from hours in the water we now have that average down to an hour max. As soon as we had a tiger on the surface we threw a rope over the side with a heavy weight belt tied to the end. We would then slide into the water and hang onto the end of the rope at about 15 metres, like a trapeze artist.

The top-man would then pull the bait right over our heads so the tigers followed it. A very unique perspective I must say.

The only problem was that as the boat went up and down you were jerked around with it. It was even worse when there was a big swell! One day - totally by accident - the anchor rope broke and the boat drifted free.

The penny dropped. The next day we rigged a 25-litre plastic drum full of holes, tied it to an eightmetre rope with an empty 25-litre drum as a float and started baiting. As soon as a shark arrived we dropped the bait bucket into the water, took the boat off anchor and entered the water. Again, we still had a lot to learn.

First, if the buoy on the surface is large, and the wind and current are strong, you end up swimming after the bucket all day. Second, if you used a nylon rope the shark could easily bite through it, or get tangled up in it.

Next, we also found that if you used a plastic bucket a large shark could take the whole bucket in its mouth.

Once the bait fell out the shark would follow the bait to the bottom and stay there. We quickly came up with a solution to all of these problems; we used a low profile buoy on the surface, a stainless steel cable joining the bucket to the buoy, and a slightly altered stainless steel washing machine drum. A method we still use today.

Suddenly there was very little current and the harsh jerking motion was gone. Best of all, the sharks followed the boat. We were drifting free, sharks swimming around us!

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Tiger Shark Diving Today One of our main concerns always was, and is, safety. We spent hours in the water with up to nine tigers at any time swimming around us, observing their behaviour. Through trial and error and hundreds of dives we came up with a dive briefing that encompassed all our knowledge.

The dive briefing goes like this: Tiger sharks are very primitive animals, so their basic response to everything is fight or flight. Either we represent danger, or we represent food.

We don’t want to represent danger so the sharks take flight, and we don’t want to look or act like food for obvious reasons.

A safe tiger dive revolves around these principles and is split into four basic points.

1.

Everything that swims in the sea

swims in a horizontal position.

2.

Aliwal Shoal - Tiger Sharks

Don’t look like fish or act like fish.

If you’re completely black the tigers take We arrange ourselves in an open “C” formation on one side of the bucket in the

very little interest in you, but put on a pair of bright fins and they are all over you.

vertical position. When the shark looks at us he doesn’t quite know what we are.

Also, don’t act like prey. Prey tries to get away, so the last thing we do is try and

An open “C” also offers the shark a clear entry and exit route to and from the bucket.

swim away from a tiger; we stand our ground.

The “C” formation lends protection to the group; the whole is seen as larger that the individual.

The tiger senses tell them, they don’t look like fish, they are all upright, and they don’t sound like fish (scuba noise).

If one diver strays from the group, the

Then as she (nearly all the tiger sharks

tigers immediately give him/her a lot of

on Aliwal Shoal are female) approaches

unwanted attention. Sharks aren’t stupid;

the group it stays together and seems

they know exactly where your eyes are.

unafraid.

They will often try to sneak up from behind or below you. There are usually two guides

Yet, it is recording smells and heartbeat

on every shark dive, one on the left hand

and knows that these things are alive

side of the “C” and one on the right.

and have eyes. If it decides to get closer, what do we do? We further confuse the

The further you are away from a guide

tiger by suddenly shouting through our

the further you are away from help, so stay

D’s (demand valve). The sudden noise

close.

and bubbles will cause the shark to turn away and re-evaluate the whole situation.

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Aliwal Shoal - Tiger Sharks

3.

We discovered that the tigers

operate similarly to apex predators on

land; it goes for the slowest, injured or inexperienced member of the group.

We have found that the tiger shark is

4.

A tiger dive also means 20 – 50

black tips or dusky sharks, depending on the time of year.

These sharks are very active and have

no fear of divers. They often brush past

a mix between the perfect hunter and

fins or bump into your flash during a dive.

when dead fish sink the tigers would

things.

the perfect scavenger. We noted that immediately go for them.

So they link sinking to weakness, injury

or dead food.

The golden rule is to always stay at the same level as the group and the bucket .

If you sink down you are going to have

the tigers all over you, this is not a

pleasant experience. Of course, some

seasoned photographers use this to their advantage to get really close up shots away from the bucket.

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They are not dangerous if you do two

I. Keep your hands folded in front to you.

II.Keep your pressure gauge and any shiny dangly loose bits tucked away. Because you are only diving at 8 – 10 metres, the sunlight is very strong and the black tips will try and bite reflections thinking it’s bait.

Not a pleasant experience that usually results in a perforated high-pressure hose and the end of your dive.

It is almost impossible to communicate with someone who is looking away from you and over three metres underwater.

For a long time this was a problem until I was introduced to the underwater quacker. There are three signals.

One quack means I’m just trying to get your attention, maybe to tell you to move a little closer or to point to a tiger shark.

Two quacks are a little more serious and mean that the shark is getting close. On hearing two quacks the diver should look behind and below him.

If the shark is approaching you the act of turning and making eye contact will eliminate the element of surprise and the shark will turn away.

The third signal, a continuous blast, is an emergency. The shark is near someone. On hearing a continuous blast the diver should immediately do a 360 scan. It’s the signal you don’t hear too often.

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Always be aware of what is going on around you. Don’t fixate on what’s happening at the bucket but scan your three-dimensional space regularly. Don’t rely on the dive guide to spot them.

The dive usually lasts one hour. We normally limit the contact time so that the tigers don’t get a chance to get too familiar with the group.

Once you are on the surface remember that your body is still in the water, so be diligent. Tiger sharks are known to investigate objects floating on the surface.

If a shark does approach, making eye contact is usually enough to deter any further advance. Should it continue, stand your ground, maintain eye contact, yell through your DV and/ or slap the surface of the water with your hand. This has worked every time.

On the surface the main danger is actually from the boat. As you hit the surface locate the boat and signal to the skipper and confirm that he/she has seen you. Alternate between scanning the water below you, and around you, and watching the boat advance towards you. At the last minute a wave can catch Pa g e 2 7 | www.africandiver.com

Aliwal Shoal - Tiger Sharks

the boat causing it to deviate from its intended path. If your head is in the water and not watching the boat this could lead to a serious injury.

Once the boat is within three metres of you keep your eyes on the boat and nothing else. When you are attached to the boat you are 99.9% safe. To sharks the boat is a big animal; it has movement, sound, and smell. Being a cautious animal the tiger shark will not approach the boat easily. In fact, it has proven very difficult to get tigers close to the boat with bait.

Photo by: Robert Pakiela

A lot of divers ask if it’s safe to pee in their wetsuits and I can quite safely say there is no danger. You can pee all day in your wetsuit or bleed underwater (yes, this is from experience) and the sharks will not change their behaviour. On the other hand, grab a handful of sardines and break them up in the water and you’d better get out the way.

Each one of the rules we have comes from observing behaviours and responses and learning from any incident, while bearing in mind the primitive nature of this species of shark.

Photo by: Robert Pakiela

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Photo by: Allen Walker

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Aliwal Shoal - Smaller stuff

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Aliwal Shoal Smaller stuff

Article by Jennifer Olbers Pa g e 2 9 | www.africandiver.com

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Aliwal Shoal - Smaller stuff

For divers with a keen eye, diving on Aliwal Shoal becomes an entirely different and magical experience. The little critters that live bound to, or close to, the shoal’s surface hold mystery that many divers are unaware of. The dynamic topography of the shoal makes for an interesting array of little critters that have adapted in some fascinating ways to live in the nooks, crannies and hidey-holes.

The Shoal is littered with sea goldies, which are protogynous hermaphrodites.

This means that they are born female and change sex as required based on internal or external triggers. Sea goldies live in a harem system with a dominant male and a handful of females. If the male dies the highest-ranking female will change sex to replace the harem leader.

Photo by: Allen Walker

is thought to have little impact on the ecosystem due to its small size and detritus feeding habits. The spinetipped star, or African red-knob sea star, is a new resident first recorded on the Shoal - and in South Africa in 2007. Although this beautiful sea star is a popular aquarium fish it is incompatible with most species as it eats coral, sponges, tubeworms, clams, other starfish and a host of invertebrates.

Novice divers often descend feet first on the reef and are startled when they disturb rays lying upon the sandy surfaces. One such ray is the round ribbon-tailed ray.

Although fairly common, little is known about their habits. They can reach up to 1.6 metres in width.

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

The tiny six-arm brittle star is a very common resident of the shoal. This is one of two alien species of echinoderm in South Africa and the only one in KwaZulu-Natal; it was probably introduced to Durban harbour prior to 1950 via a ship from Asia. Currently, it Co n t e n t s

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Aliwal Shoal - Smaller stuff

A variety of sea urchins also graze upon the shoal and keep the algae growth in check. Unfortunately, these animals are popular in the ornamental and traditional medicine trade. Sea urchins are readily available at curios shops for home decorations and can be found in their thousands at traditional medicine markets around the world.

Some species have been reduced to unsustainable levels worldwide.

strong currents. It is also one of the few sponges that contain zooxanthellae (symbiotic photosynthesising algae similar to that found in coral), which are dependent on light for survival.

Consequently, they occur in areas of the shoal that have plenty of light.

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Anyone familiar with Aliwal Shoal will recognise the sponge that spreads like a carpet over large areas. This brown to dark maroon sponge has two adaptive features that make it an ideal resident of Aliwal Shoal.

Its morphology (physical structure) is encrusting and thin, so it is able to withstand high wave-energy and Pa g e 3 1 | www.africandiver.com

The corals found on Aliwal Shoal have had their spawn carried in currents from the northern coral communities, such as Sodwana Bay, and are now surviving in conditions that are not ideal for their proliferation.

This is a well-recorded phenomenon where a number of dominant species, such as the smooth cauliflower coral, will always occur, whereas less common species will only be recorded from time to time.

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Aliwal Shoal - Smaller stuff

Therefore, if a species list for corals is drawn up, the species list will grow over time, but not all the species on the list can be found at any one time. 15 species of hard coral have been recorded on the shoal since 1985.

Photo by: Allen Walker

Numerous overhangs and crevices play host to species of fish, which have large eyes to aid their nocturnal lifestyle; this includes the crown squirrelfish and the blotcheye soldier who take refuge in the deep dark crevices and caves of the shoal.

Occasionally a cowrie or two can be seen. These beautiful creatures slowly navigate the nooks and crannies of the Shoal. They enclose their shells with their mantle, which protects the shell from erosion.

Photo by: Allen Walker

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Honeycomb oysters are a common feature on the edge of the overhangs, but they are seldom seen due to their excellent camouflage. Even if you not looking for this bivalve you’ll need to be aware of the characteristic jagged edge of their two shells!

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Aliwal Shoal - Marine Protected Area

Photo by: Allen Walker

Aliwal Shoal Marine Protected Area

Written by: Wayne Munger Pa g e 3 3 | www.africandiver.com

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Aliwal Shoal - Marine Protected Area

Aliwal Shoal has bore witness to a variety of controversies over the last three decades, concerning shark diving, shark nets, user conflict, management issues, and resource pressure.

The majority of these issues have been sparked by the mega-resources; the ragged-tooth sharks; tiger sharks; potato bass, which once flourished; and also the pelagics, such as whales, dolphins and whale sharks that move through the area seasonally during their migration or to feed.

Aliwal Shoal is now managed by Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife under mandate by the Department of Environment Affairs sub directorate Oceans and Coast.

The Aliwal Shoal MPA was established to mitigate and manage consumptive and non-consumptive activities within the area, and allow over-exploited fish stocks to recover by controlling fishing practices and protecting this breeding ground and nursery. Its express motivations include the promotion of ecotourism activities, research and education projects and programs that highlight the marine environment at Aliwal Shoal.

The Legislation & You In 2005, Aliwal Shoal was declared a MPA under section 43 of the Marine Living Resources Act, 18 0f 1998. This regulates and limits the activities that can take place. This includes the water, seabed and the airspace up to 500 meters above sea level within the MPA boundaries.

The MPA is zoned into two Restricted Zones and one Controlled Zone, which primarily differ with regards to fishing and diving rules and regulations.

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

In terms of the diving, the legislation dictates the following:

• A scuba diving permit is required when diving within the Aliwal Shoal Marine Protected Area • All vessels that have deployed divers must display the alpha flag.

• No vessel may be attached to a demarcation buoy.

• No anchoring or mooring within the Marine Protected Area.

This legislation will hopefully ensure that the diversity of the shoal is preserved for all to enjoy and ensure that it remains a worldclass dive site.

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Aliwal Shoal - Marine Protected Area

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Aliwal Shoal - Dive Sites

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Aliwal Shoal Dive sites

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Photo by: Allen Walker

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Photo by: Brett Louw

Castle

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Cathedral

• 15 – 22 metres

• 16 – 25 metres

Castle lies to the south end of the reef and sits inline with the town of Scottburgh. The dive starts at about 15 metres and goes down to about 22 metres; this makes it the perfect dive for nitrox (enriched air) as it will extend your bottom time greatly.

The dive site known as Cathedral is the result of wave action that eroded fossilized sand dunes causing a natural arch over a large pothole. You enter through a large archway located on the outside edge of the reef.

Because of the overhangs and gullies it is advisable to use a torch to see the macro life on display. One of the highlights of this dive is the longnose hawkfish.

There are beautiful swim throughs and amazing topography, which can hide frogfish, mantis shrimp, harlequin shrimp, and razor fish.

As with Eel Skin a long safety stop is advisable. If you hang around here you have a great chance of seeing some blacktip sharks during your stop. Where else in the world can you brief your divers that on the safety stop they will have an 80% chance of seeing sharks! From July until November raggies can also be found here. Last year there was a lone “lost” raggie shark here for most of the year!

It is a small area and best dived with little current. If the current is strong you do need to be able to shelter in the gullies and overhangs.

Cathedral is very popular with both raggies and a very large potato bass that resides just under the top of the arch. Large turtles are often found in the small cave to the left of the entrance. However, it is not all about the large animals. The walls of the “pothole” are teeming with a myriad of macro invertebrates and fish.

During the winter aggregation of raggies Cathedral really comes into its own. There is a very convenient rock ledge at the entrance that divers can kneel before. Once situated the locals will come and investigate, often coming very close and showing no signs of aggression if you don’t make sudden movements. It is during these times that one truly feels you are partaking in a religious experience, thus making the name Cathedral even more apt.

The top of the reef is roughly 16 metres deep and you can peer into the bowl that forms the main part of the area. The true beauty of Cathedral is best appreciated when on the bottom, at 25 metres, looking up through the arch and into the blue water beyond.

It is another area that is great during the winter when the sharks are about, but it is also a good choice on days with big swell due to its depth.

Writer: Brett Louw Photo by: Allen Walker

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Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Writer: Ivan van Heerden

Photo by: Ivan van Heerden

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Chunnel

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

• 6 – 14 metres

• 10 – 18 metres

In a slight north to south current there is no better place to blow bubbles than the Aliwal Shoal. In particular, you can start on the big patch of sand that is locally known as North Sands, swim on to the rocks through Ledges and Overhangs, then and as you swim southward you arrive at a sandy patch called Chunnel Sands, which is the start of the Chunnel area. The main feature is a huge pinnacle, which comes as shallow as six metres.

Eel Skin sits to the south of the main Aliwal reef and consequently it is not dived nearly as much as it should be.

A shallow dive about 1 kilometre long at the end of the reef, it allows for long bottom times and offers a huge amount to see.

At the base of the pinnacle is an overhang that, in winter, is often full of raggies.

However, the last few summers some of the sharks have “forgotten” to leave Aliwal and have hung around all year. When there are sharks in any of the overhangs, the local practice is NOT TO ENTER, and observe from the side of the entrance. This is done to ensure that the sharks are not stressed and decide to leave.

After observing the sharks for a while you can swim through the small cave at the back of Chunnel. This is known as Pineapple Cave, because of the pineapple fish that have taken up residency. Most of the time you will also find banded pipefish hanging around too. Just make sure to check the cave before entering; sometimes rays lay in the sand resting. Chunnel is a great spot to head for during the winter to meet up with the resident shark population but the location should be avoided during a big swell.

Writer: Vegard Kvam

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Eel Skin

Photo by: Allen Walker

If you take your time you will get to see the best that Aliwal has to offer at macro level, such as loads of nudibranchs. This is a dive where you will want to spend time with your “head in the sand” looking for the smaller things.

Eelskin is best dived with a slight south to north current so you can spend some time in the gullies and drop offs. In a strong current it is possible to start a dive here and end up leaving the reef at North Eastern Pinnacle.

This allows you to spend more time underwater and make the most of your dive.

Due to prevailing currents and the way the reef is situated you do need to pay attention to where your divemaster is, because sometimes they need to hide from the current or go against it to get to another part of the reef.

Writer: Brett Louw

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Inside Edge

Photo by: Allen Walker

• 13 to 15 metres

• 12 – 15 metres

As the name suggests, the Inside Edge is the edge of the shoal that runs north to south closest to the shoreline. This is one of my favourite dives and definitely not dived enough. I love to start at the south, in line with Cathedral, and spend some time in Ledges and Overhangs, before slowly making my way north and finishing on North Sands.

Any diver who has trained on Aliwal Shoal probably knows the big patch of sand called North Sands. I would suggest that it could be one of your best social dives ever if you have patience.

Sometimes you have to let things come to

Along the way you have the chance to see lion fish, turtles, rays, whitetip reef sharks, nudibranchs, moray eels and clownfish. If this is your second dive of the day, your chance of seeing dolphins on North Sands increases; for some reason you tend to find dolphins on North Sands around midday.

The best thing about this dive site is that you can do it no matter what the currents are doing; You either start south and head north or visa versa. Just use the current to pull you along the side of the reef. It’s suitable for all levels as you can stay at 13 metres or dive at 25 metres – depending on your certification – and keep the whole group in sight.

Writer: Brett Louw Photo by: Allen Walker

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North Sands

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

you.

North Sands hides numerous treasures above and below her sandy bottom.

The local dolphin pods, mantas, eaglerays, raggies, bass, king and queenfish often visit the sands for their daily cleaning rituals. Take a look around you for ribbontail rays, giant guitarfish, pipefish, false stonefish and paperfish. Below, juvenile wrasse hide in the sand where a treasure trove of shark’s teeth also lay hidden, and maybe even the odd old glass paraffin lamp.

The changing seasons bring different species to the sands, and they gather in their numbers, jostling for space or partners. The Northern Sands are well known for the large numbers of rays and sand sharks that gather between December and February. Of course, when the raggie numbers are up this is a favourite spot, especially in the evenings when they are more active.

Any conditions are good! North Sands is definitely a good starting point when you have moderate to strong north to south current. It allows dive group’s time to get to the bottom and visually monitor the dive master until everyone has descended. The more important factor when diving North Sands is what time you dive. She is pretty colonial if you get my drift.

Writer: Allen Walker

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Photo by: Allen Walker

Northern Pinnacles

Photo by: Allen Walker

Outside Edge

• 6 - 16 metres

• max 27 metres

The Northern Pinnacles is one of the most spectacular dive sites on Aliwal Shoal, and it can easily be compared to some of the top dive sites in the world.

Its abundance of potholes, crevices and rock formations (pinnacles) provide sanctuaries for fish to lay eggs, offer protection for nurseries, and supply hideouts for juveniles.

As the name suggests, Outside Edge sits on the seaward edge of the reef. Consequently, you may often experience quite a fast drift dive along the length of it. This area also encompasses Cathedral and Shark Alley, so it is no surprise that raggies are common here.

However, prolific hunters also hang out here such as, frogfish, paperfish, trumpet fish, flute fish, false stonefish, devil firefish, cardinals and morays.

The Northern Pinnacles is synonymous with large schools of batfish, bigeye kingfish, bluefin kingfish, manta’s, eaglerays, bluespotted stingray, round ribbontail rays, potato bass, turtles, dolphins and whitetip reef sharks that gather and hunt. The surface is also littered with needlefish and garfish. I can most probably recite Dennis and Rudy’s “Sea Fishes of South Africa Guide.”

If you’re lucky you can discover green coral trees, dragon moray, batfish, longnosed pipefish, pineapple fish, honeycomb morays, sailfish, hammerheads, and seasonally, whale sharks, tiger sharks, and ragged-tooth sharks.

This can be a tough dive, especially in strong current or surge, when it is recommended that you avoid the Pinnacles. The Pinnacles can be a problem for divers and boats.

Advanced divers should not have a problem in moderate swell and current. It is however a must do when there is no current. Additionally, because of its species diversity and shallow depth, the Pinnacles is an excellent dive during bad visibility.

There are a few small cleaning stations to examine, but on the outside edge of South Sands and Cathedral look out into the blue to see passing pelagics, such as the game fish, which first attracted spear fishermen to the area, and also turtles, rays, and schooling hammerhead sharks. The Outside Edge drift dive is especially rewarding in a north to south current which brings in the big game fish like giant kingfish (GT’s), sailfish, marlin, brindlebass and numerous others.

Look out into the blue and you may see hammerhead sharks, marlin, sailfish, couta, zambezi sharks, dolphins, or schools of devil rays. Here the list is like a lucky dip; I have even seen humpback whales on this dive profile.

In a south to north current the Outside Edge drift dive has an advantage due to its profile - diving from deep to shallow and ending on the outer pinnacle reef – which allows for longer dive times. The north to south profile requires discipline; divers need to keep monitoring their depth, because it is always tempting to quickly go and have a look at something, especially in the bay of caves area!

It is best dived in a north to south current due to the warmer, cleaner water.

However, dives during a south to north current can be just as rewarding.

Writer: Allen Walker

Writer: Allen Walker Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Photo by: Allen Walker

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Photo by: Allen Walker

Ledges & Overhangs

Photo by: Allen Walker

Raggies Cave

• 7 – 15 metres

• 15 – 19 metres

Ledges & overhangs is an obvious continuation from the southern end of North Sands to the mid-section of the reef. It runs inshore, parallel to the central pinnacle ridge, so you’re diving the inside edge (or basin) of the pinnacle ridge.

This architectural masterpiece of caves, tunnels and overhangs, creates stunning photo opportunities, from macro to wideangle.

Raggie’s Cave is known to be a favourite hangout of the seasonal raggie population.

However, the common belief that the raggies only rest in the actual caves is false. Although they do prefer the caves for shelter when the current is moderate

Ledges & overhangs boasts numerous treasures - the latest additions to the family are two whitetip reef sharks. Not only are you virtually guaranteed a sighting of these stunning sharks, but their presence is unusual in that it represents a species range extension – these animals are not usually found this far south. Raggies also like to hang out under the overhangs.

Juvenile pineapple fish use the caves to develop before venturing out into deeper water. Marlin, sailfish and hammerhead sharks are often spotted hunting in this area due to the abundance of schooling fish near the surface. The area hides huge potato bass and ribbontail rays, but one of the best things commonly sighted in this area is octopus; just keep your eyes open and don’t always just look down. You may also see batfish, spadefish, and hammerheads.

to strong, the raggies move throughout this entire area because it is all protected from current. You will often find them on the sands or the eastern section of Raggies Cave. Sometimes divers push them out of these areas, so this dive site requires that divers implement proper shark diving etiquette to ensure everyone can enjoy it with the raggies present.

Ragged-tooth sharks remain one of the mains attractions but various species of rays, large schools of bigeye stumpnose, neon fusiliers, german’s and bigeye kingfish can be seen. The area also offers turtles, geometric eels and much, much more.

This is a well-sheltered dive site and any conditions are good. Raggie’s Cave is a good starting point for dives in a North to South current. It allows a good dive profile for open water divers starting at 18 metres and then working along the outside pinnacle ridge up into the pinnacles.

Writer: Allen Walker

This area is best visited when there is no to moderate current. Normally this would be a continuation of a nice easy dive from North Sands to the end of Chunnel. If you dive further than this in one go you have definitely missed most of what this dive has to offer.

Writer: Allen Walker Photo by: Allen Walker

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Photo by: Ivan van Heerden Co n t e n t s

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Photo by: Allen Walker

South Sands

Photo by: Allen Walker

• 13 – 17 metres South Sands is normally used as a starting point for open water divers in a moderate to strong, south to north current.

For me, South Sands is a very special dive site that I normally like to dive in a north to south current, starting at the northern most tip of South Sands then working down, keeping the ridge inshore of me.

The sands stretch down the southern side of the shoal and lead you to the Southern Pinnacle Ridge. This area is infrequently dived, which is a pity as it is just magnificent. My suggestion, get a knowledgeable local dive master to take you on this profile. You will love it!

South sands is macro heaven with cuttlefish, nudibranchs, cowries, and numerous types of juvenile fish. It is also a haven for redfang triggerfish.

Once again, your usual suspects frequent this area - rays, dolphins, sharks - but with some added bonus species. The further south you go the more likely you are of encountering pickhandle pike, couta, spotted eaglerays, floral morays, poenskop, white steenbrass, baardman, threadfin, juvenile golden kingfish, rainbow runners, bluefin kingfish, queenfish, shoals of Indian scad, and last but not least, blacktip sharks and tiger sharks.

Like North Sands, water temperature and the changing seasons bring different species to the South Sands, and they gather en masse jostling for space or partners. Late afternoons may deliver a viewing of natural predation, especially if there are large numbers of rays around. South sands is always a good dive, no matter the conditions.

Writer: Allen Walker

Photo by: Brett Louw

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Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Photo by: Allen Walker

Photo by: Ivan van Heerden

Landers • 22 – 30 metres Landers reef lies approximately five kilometres offshore, almost directly opposite the popular launch site of Rocky Bay. The reef is a deeper dive, with the top of the pinnacle at about 22 metres and the sand at between 27 – 30 metres. A series of steep-sided gullies wend in and around the site.

In addition to the depth this is an advanced dive because there is often a current.

This is a great enriched air dive site.

The soft corals and green coral colonies are particularly stunning. You can sometimes get lucky and find frog fish lurking in these colonies. Fish abound and you can often see very large schools of amberjack and kingfish during the summer months.

Outer Landers consists of several large flat sections of reef with steep sides that are covered with gorgonians and various types of seaweeds. Lacy scorpion fish are common and divers can often count over ten different species of nudibranch on a single dive!

Writer: Ivan van Heerden Photo by: Ivan van Heerden

Photo by: Ivan van Heerden

The Southern Reefs The southern reefs sit in a deeper area and necessitate advanced certification. They require a launch out of Rocky Bay to the south of Umkomaas. They are just as spectacular as the Aliwal dive sites so they also deserve a mention.

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Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Umzimayi Wall

Photo by: Ivan van Heerden

Fern, Cowries and Butchers

• 24 metres average

• 21 – 27 metres

This deeper reef averages 24 metres.

This three reef-system lies to the north of Rocky Bay and extends along the coast to Scottburgh. As it is fairly close to shore, it is prone to bad visibility brought on by surge and flooding rivers. Nonetheless when the conditions are right these reefs offer some great diving.

Marine life abounds here but not just on the reef, blue water pelagics such as tigers, blacktips and, very occasionally, the elusive thresher shark are seen on this dive site.

Cowries reef lives up to its name with large numbers of very large cowry shells with their gorgeous mantles exposed.

Due to the depth and the prevailing current, this site is often done as a drift dive, which makes for some challenging photography options.

Fern coral reef exhibits large stands of soft corals, which provide hiding places for juveniles and a testament to how easily reefs are damaged by anchors.

For those that persevere a plethora of macro opportunities abound with longnosed hawkfish, juvenile clown triggerfish and paperfish to be found.

Butchers reef is so named because in the past whaling ships anchored in the vicinity while their catches were processed. Thankfully, all that remains is the name and the myriad of boulders give the site the feel of a long-abandoned construction yard. Nudibranchs abound, as do many juvenile fish species, while guitarfish lurk in sand patches between the boulders.

The soft corals, which these fish call home, are in very good shape indeed

Writer: Ivan van Heerden

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Writer: Ivan van Heerden

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

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Photo by: Allen Walker

Aliwal Shoal WRECKS

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Photo by: Andrew Kemp

The Produce wreck

Photo by: Allen Walker

The NEBO Wreck

• 18 - 32 metres The Produce lies in 32 metres of water just inshore of the Aliwal Shoal. The local conditions - frequent strong currents and big swells - have broken up the wreck quite badly. The middle section lies completely flat, while both the stern and the bow remain somewhat intact.

The Nebo is situated inshore of Aliwal Shoal, approximately four kilometres from the Umkomaas river mouth. This steam ship sank en route from England to Durban, carrying railway equipment for the Amanzimtoti railway bridge. It did not hit the reef, but was caught

However, the stern is showing signs of collapsing, so penetrating the wreck here is not advisable. Divers must be careful not to get entangled or otherwise disturb the fragile pieces on the deck side of the wreck. When diving always keep an eye out for debris above you and remember to look out for the scorpion fish that cover this wreck, as they are very well camouflaged and blend in with the background. Take care, if and when you touch the wreck, since large parts of the metal is covered with fire coral; so gloves are recommended.

in the swells and capsized. This was due to badly stored cargo; the ship was top heavy.

Unconfirmed rumours claim that this was the third ship named Nebo, from the same shipping company, which sank on its maiden voyage.

When the conditions are right, this is one of the best and most dived wreck spots in South Africa. The marine life is amazing, with everything from the smallest nudibranch to the resident brindle bass and passing pelagic marine life. The wreck is teeming with harlequin goldies, which for reasons unknown only seem to be found on wrecks.

The bow section is the popular hangout for most of the brindles that inhabit the wreck. This section is also full of big holes and if it is empty you can swim through from the broken area to the cargo hatch on the deck; however, keep an eye out for the brindles sitting inside the wreck.

This dive should only be attempted when conditions are favourable with little to no current; otherwise you will struggle to stay on the wreck. To get the most out of your dive on the Produce, it is best to start deeper then work your way shallower. The shallowest part of the stern comes up to approximately 18 metres but is more exposed to the current, so it is not advisable to stay this shallow for long. It is therefore necessary to possess advanced certification.

Writer: Vegard Kvam

Co n t e n t s

The surrounding sand is full of bottom fish, like sand sharks and crocodile fish, and we also often see dagga salmon hovering over the sand. The wreck is covered in debris from its cargo, providing perfect living conditions for crayfish and other fish that like to live in small holes and overhangs.

On a good day, you will have difficulty spotting the wreck due to the vast number of baitfish covering it. It is like diving in an aquarium. There is no better dive when the conditions are right; the amount of life on this wreck and in the surrounding waters is mind-blowing.

For the macro enthusiast, this is heaven. The number of different nudibranchs and anemones is astonishing. Combine this with the scorpion fish and sea urchins, and you can go wild taking pictures.

The Nebo lays in 25-27 metres of water and is partly buried in the sand. The shallowest part comes up to 19 metres, but this area is very small so the majority of the dive is at 23-25 metres. The wreck rests out in the open, so the dive can only be done when there is little to no current. Another limiting factor is that its proximity to shore means it is affected by dirty river water that washes out to sea.

Writer: Vegard Kvam

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Aliwal Shoal - Species list

Photo by: Andrew Kemp

Aliwal Shoal Species List

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Contents

Aliwal Shoal - Species List

Cartilaginous Fish - Sharks and Rays Sharks

RAYS & GUITAR FISH

Bony fish

Blacktip shark

Caracharhinus limbatus

Baardman (Tasselfish)

Umbrina canariensis

Hammerhead shark

Sphyrna sp.

Banded pipefish

Dunckerocampus boylei

Ragged-tooth shark (Raggies)

Caracharias Taurus

Batfish

Ephippidae

Bigeye kingfish

Caranx sexfasciatus

Bigeye stumpnose

Rhabdosargus thorpei

Bluefin kingfish

Caranx melampygus

Brindlebass

Epinephelus lanceolatus

Clown triggerfish

Balistoides conspicillum

Common cuttlefish

Sepia vermiculata

Couta (King mackerel)

Scomberomorus cavalla

False stonefish

Scorpaenopsis diabolus

Geometric eel

Gymnotorax griseus

German

Polyamblyodon germanum

Thresher shark

Alopiidae

Tiger shark

Galeocerdo cuvier

Whale Shark

Rhincodon typus

Whitetip reef shark

Triaenodon obesus

Zambezi (bull shark)

Carcharhinus leucas

Bluespotted stingray

Neotrygon kuhlii

Devil ray

Mobula kuhlii

Floral moray

Echidna nebulosa

Giant guitarfish / sandshark

Rhynchobatus djiddensis

Golden kingfish

Gnathanodon speciosus

Rhinobatos leucospilus

Harlequin goldiefish

Pseudanthias connelli

Helmet frogfish (angler)

Antennarius commerson

Honeycomb moray

Gymnothorax favagineus

Indian Scad

Decapterus russelli

Indo-Pacific sailfish

Istiophorus platypterus

Kingfish sp.

Carangidae

Kingfish sp.

Caranx sp.

Lacy scorpion fish

Rhinopias aphanes

Greyspot guitarfish / sandshark

Co n t e n t s

Bony fish

Honeycomb stingray

Himantura uarnak

Manta

Manta birostris

Round ribbontail ray

Taeniura meyeni

Spotted eagleray

Aetobatus narinari

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Aliwal Shoal - Species List

Bony fish Bony fish

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Bony fish Bony fish

Lion fish

Caracharhinus limbatus

Threadfin

Polynemidae sp.

Longfin amberjack

Pterois volitans

White steenbrass

Lithognathus lithognathus

Longfin batfish

Seriola rivoliana

Wrasse

Labridae

Longnose hawkfish

Platax teira

Longnosed pipefish

Oxycirrhites typus

Marlin

Istiophoridae

Neon fusiliers

Pterocaesio tile

Painter frogfish (angler)

Antennarius pictus

Paperfish

Taenianotus triacanthus

Pickhandle pike

Sphyraena jello

Pineapple fish

Monocentris japonica

Poenskop (black musselcracker)

Cymatoceps nasutus

Potatoe bass

Epinephelus tukula

Queenfish

Scomberoides commersonnianus

Rainbow runner

Elagatis bipinnulata

Redfang triggerfish

Odonus niger

Sailfish

Istiophorus platypterus

Sardine

Sardinops sagax

sea goldies

Anthias squamipinnis

Spadefish

Platax sp.

Squirrelfish

Sarocentron sp.

Stonefish

Synanceia verrucosa

Photo by: Allen Walker

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Aliwal Shoal - Species List

Mammals

Bryde’s whale

Balaenoptera brydei

Humpback whale

Megaptera novaeangliae

Indian Ocean bottlenose dolphin

Tursiops aduncus

Long-beaked common dolphin

Invertebrates

Delphinus capensis

Southern right whale

Eubalaena australis

African red-knob sea star

Protoreaster lincki

Blotcheye soldier

Myripristis murdjan

Brown to dark maroon sponge

Suberites kelleri

Cowrie

Cypraea sp.

Crayfish Harlequin shrinp

Hymenocera picta

Honeycomb oysters

Hyotissa hyotis

Sea urchins sp.

Reptiles - Turtles

Co n t e n t s

Six-arm brittle star

Ophiactis savignyi

Smooth cauliflower coral

Stylophora pistillata

Leatherback

Dermochelys coriacea

Loggerhead

Caretta caretta

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Aliwal Shoal - Bio’s

Aliwal Shoal

Getting to know our contributors:

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Allen Walker

Brett Louw

Allen is passionate about South Africa and her stunning heritage,

Brett started Scuba diving in Umkomaas in 1988, before he

and through his photography and

left school.

a philosophy of “reward equals time and effort,” he wants to

He has been a DM and owner of dive operations In Umkomaas since

make a meaningful contribution to the promotion of effective conservation.

1992 but has found the time to dive all over the world. He now owns Agulhas House.

Wayne Munger

BJ Holtshouzen

Ezemvelo KZN Marine Community Conservation Officer coordinating community awareness and education programmes and initiatives.

.

BJ acquired most of his launching skills at Umkomaas, which has been invaluable when working in other places. During his 10 years skippering he has worked in the Seychelles, Mozambique, and mostly southern Africa

Contents

Aliwal Shoal - Bio’s

Aliwal Shoal

Getting to know our contributors:

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Walter Bernadis

Ivan Van Heerden

Walter has been diving Aliwal for 30 years and was one of the

Ivan has been diving for the

original pioneers of open water tiger shark diving. Walter’s

for the last 6. He was trained

by Mauricio Handler of

company, African Watersports has been serving Aliwal since 1989.

Nat Geo fame.

Jennifer Olbers:

Vegard Kvam .

Marine Ecologist for Ezemvelo for the last 5 years and working on Aliwal since 2004.

Vegard has been diving for 23 years, including 9 years as an instructor in Umkomaas. He has over 4500 dives logged on Aliwal Shoal and is currently working as resident instructor and dive leader at Agulhas House Dive Centre.

last 22 years and shooting

Contents

Aliwal Shoal - Bio’s

A special thank you to: • Allen Walker • Andrew Kemp • Brett Louw, Vegard Kvam and BJ Holtshouzen from Agulhas House.

• Clive Holmes • Ivan van Heerden • Jenifer Goldberg

Aliwal Shoal

• Jennifer Olbers from KZN Wildlife

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• Mark and Gail Addison from Blue Wilderness • Mickey Louw from Agulhas House • Walter Bernadis from African Water Sports • Wayne Munger from KZN Wildlife • Dennis King • Mike Fraser • Jean Perreira from Oceanworx diving

Contents

Photographed by Evert Nel

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Contents

Conservation - Penguin Promises

PENGUIN PROMISES

Saving the African Penguin, one promise at a time.

Article by Gabby Harris | Photos by Penguin Promises

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Contents

Conservation - Penguin Promises

CONSERVATION African Penguins are endemic to Southern African.

An indicator species, their demise reflects an ecosystem in trouble. There has been a 60% decline in the African Penguin population in the past decade.

The minimum viable global population is 50,000 pairs, but the current population is around 26,000 pairs. Reasons for their decline include overfishing, climate change, pollution and habitat destruction.

Healthy ocean ecosystems are critical for penguins and for the humans.

In 2011, the Animal Keepers Association of African (AKAA) selected the endangered African penguin for their annual conservation project. For this awareness campaign, rather than focus on the doom and gloom that research has shown disempowers and overwhelms people, AKAA chose to focus on the positive actions people can take to help our environment. That is, real actions, which lead to positive environmental behaviour change.

THE CAMPAIGN

Co n t e n t s

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Through www.penguinpromises.com and an associated social media campaign we provide people with promise suggestions. The aim is to encourage as many people as possible to make a promise, support the campaign and make a tangible difference however big or small. Research shows that simply giving money to a cause eases environmental guilt without modifying behaviour. Given the impact that humans are having on our planet, it is essential that we adopt more environmentally responsible behaviours.

Conservation - Penguin Promises

• uShaka Sea World hosted a “black and white” day on International African Penguin Day. Visitors to the park were given discounts if they dressed in black and white.

• A group of Durban cyclists have created: Penguin Promises cycle gear

THE LAST YEAR Various AKAA inspired activities have generated awareness for this campaign.

These include: • “Waddling for a Week”

A 130 kilometre walk from Gansbaai to Simonstown in May 2011.

The walk was completed by eight penguin enthusiasts from five AKAA affiliated facilities - uShaka Sea World, South African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds (SANCCOB), Two Oceans Aquarium, the National Zoo and Gold Reef City.

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to race in. The cycle group includes one professional, Nedene Cahill.

• School talks have been conducted by members of South African Marine Rehabilitation Centre (SAMREC), uShaka Sea World, Lowry Park Zoo and FreeMe Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre.

• Penguin enthusiasts have participated in various fun runs and other public events.

• Significant Media attention includes 50/50 television, 5 FM radio, SAFM, East Coast Radio, Sunday Times Newspaper, and more.

• Various celebrities have retweeted Penguin Promises. @penguinpromises

• uShaka Sea World‘s redesigned penguin exhibit interpretation promotes penguin promises and includes a post box for people to post their promises.

It is important to remember that

• A local band produced a campaign song called “Open Your Eyes” Anyone can download the tune from penguinpromises.com. Every time the band plays the song they promote the cause.

the campaign is free for anyone to join and does not belong to any facility. This demonstrates the synergistic effects of building partnerships between conservation organisations .

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Conservation - Penguin Promises

P e n g u i n P r om i s e a c ti v i t i e s in 2011

Top Left: Cyclists design special Penguin gear to raise awareness for the cause.

Top Right: Two cyclists showing off their special desinger penguin gear for the race.

Bottom Left: Posting letters of Penguin promises at the Penguin display at uShaka Sea World Durban.

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Contents

Conservation - Penguin Promises Results?

To date over 13,000 people have visited the website. Promises have been made via the website, facebook, twitter, a text line and at uShaka SEA WORLD. The most popular promises are “not to litter” and “to recycle”.

Penguin Pormises will be contacting people to see if they remembered to keep their promises.

THE FUTURE...

Penguin Promises began as a yearlong awareness campaign, but a decision was made to keep the momentum going and continue the cause indefinitely. This year Waddling for a Week will occur in the third week of April; the aim is to ensure that this event becomes an annual occurrence with public involvement.

A key message is that it does not matter where you live in the world - along the coast or far inland – our actions can help penguins and our planet.

Co n t e n t s

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Conservation - Penguin Promises

Make your promise and encourage others to do the same.

The future of our African Penguin is at stake.

For more information and to make a promise go to www.penguinpromises.com Alternatively contact us at gabby@seaworld.org.za

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Contents

Destination HOT SPOT - Maldives

Article & Photos by Edvin Eng, owner of Ocean Xplorer

Pa g e 6 2 | www.africandiver.com

Contents

Destination HOT SPOT - Maldives

The Maldives is often referred to as paradise and one of the most beautiful places on earth. Its white sandy beaches are topped by swaying palm trees and surrounded by inviting pale blue waters. It is a tropical paradise possessing luxurious resorts. But the true beauty of the Maldives lies with its rich coral reefs and diverse marine life.

Comprising 1 190 tropical islands some 340 kilometres southwest of India, the Maldives is an island nation in the Indian Ocean. Stretching 823 kilometres north to south and 130 kilometres east to west, this is one of the most disparate countries in the world. Only 201 of the islands are inhabited and 99 are developed exclusively as tourist resorts.

I recently spent a week on the luxury yacht, “Handy Cruise�, cruising some of the Maldives’ dive sites.

The islands are scattered over a large area, and because I wanted to experience great marine diversity and a variety of sites I chose to spend my time on a liveaboard.

Co n t e n t s

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Destination HOT SPOT - Maldives

Although many of the dive sites are suitable for inexperienced divers, strong and

unpredictable

down-currents

do

occur and such sites can be a bit more problematic and challenging for those who are less experienced. With the exception of a few sites, most of the diving is drift diving; either outside or inside an atoll.

Diving outside of the atolls is done during an outgoing current. The outside of the atoll is generally made up of steep slopes in steps or a wall that plunges into

“Diving the lagoons inside the atolls is generally safe and easy diving for all levels...”

the abyss. These sites are great for sighting large pelagics and it is recommended to stay close to the reef to avoid the risk of being washed out to sea.

Diving the lagoons inside the atolls is generally safe and easy diving for all levels, when dived with an incoming current and not near a channel. Inside the atoll you often find pinnacles of rock rocketing up from the bottom to just below the surface.

These are known locally as ‘Thilas’ and are covered in soft corals and sponges of all colours. Thilas are also home to numerous schools of resident fish.

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Diving

in

only

barrier reefs surrounding many of the

reefs structures, which need to be alive

divers

local islands. These barrier reefs are very

for this unique environment to survive in

because of the tidal currents. These tidal

healthy and pretty much untouched.

the future.

currents bring clean, nutrient rich water

Most are shallow and almost completely

with incoming tides while outgoing tides

surround each island.

This was the

While locals fish for their livelihood and

wash out the dirty water. The best time to

perfect setting and location for many

they depend on the beauty of the reefs

dive these channels is with an incoming

over-under and reef reflection shots.

and islands for their tourist industry

recommended

the for

channels

is

experienced

tide when visibility is at its greatest.

they need their people and visitors to

Hanging close to the reef but away from

Diving in the Maldives can be done all

the mouth should provide the best vantage

year round. April to June are the hottest

point to view the underwater show.

months of the year and, due to plankton blooming, the best time to see manta rays

Some of the dive sites I visited include

and whale sharks.

Wreck,

Rashdoo

and

order to sustain their living.

For example, during the El NiĂąo of 1998 some of the shallower coral reefs were

Manta Point, Dhigurah Arch, Fish Head, Fesdu

take care of the natural environment in

seriously affected by bleaching, which

Madivar

December to March are the months with

had a detrimental impact on tourism.

Kandu and a great number of Thilas.

the best visibility. The wet season, which

Fortunately, the general view is that while

While diving these sites I encountered

is between May and August reduces

these reefs are returning to their former

manta rays, whale sharks, grey reef sharks,

visibility and restricts the number of

glory, the marine life has not dwindled.

white & black tip sharks, napoleon wrasse,

accessible dive sites because of poor

guitar sharks, mobula rays, marble rays,

conditions.

In an admiral show of commitment,

dogtooth tuna, eagle rays, turtles & much

the Maldivian President has even taken

more. The pristine conditions and clarity

For the most, the weather is usually

his cabinet diving so they could learn

of the water provide an ideal environment

perfect - sun kissed days and breezy

about the direct connection between the

for divers and photographers alike.

nights.

Maldives islands and its ‘environment’.

The

average

temperature

throughout the year is 30 degrees Celsius.

For me, and many of my fellow divers, the

Recently the government instated a

highlight of the trip was the encounters

The island eco-system has a direct effect

number of regulations, which provide

with the numerous mantas and whale

on all facets of Maldivian life as the

a natural protection for the otherwise

shark but my favourite memory is of the

islands are protected by thousands of

fragile islands.

Co n t e n t s

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Destination HOT SPOT - Maldives

These laws protect a number of endangered marine species and corals. Furthermore, a ban has been imposed on the fishing and collection of certain species of fish and corals.

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Contents

Destination HOT SPOT - Maldives

Shark feeding has, fortunately, also been totally stopped now.

Last year the Maldivian government declared a 90 000 square kilometre section of the Indian Ocean, as a shark sanctuary free from all shark fishing and also banned all imports and exports of shark fins.

They recognize that sharks are one of the key reasons tourists visit to dive there.

Let’s hope

more countries follow suit.

Co n t e n t s

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Destination HOT SPOT - Maldives

In closing I leave you with a paragraph from an old Maldivian folk song:

“In horizon of the vast Indian Ocean grow green palms This is my homeland, this is the Maldives From the clear blue seas, we grow like pearls, This is my homeland, this is the Maldives Pa g e 6 9 | www.africandiver.com

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Photo by: Allen Walker

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Contents

Co n t e n t s

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Conservation - Sustainable Seas Trust

What is SST? SST arose from the African Coelacanth Ecosystem Programme in 2007, with a view to provide long-term sustainable support for worthwhile conservation initiatives. All too often in Africa, projects start and then stop after the initial funding runs out; a cycle that SST aims to halt. To ensure long-term sustainability, half of all donations in a calendar year are used in that same year, and the rest are invested into a trust account to support projects in the future.

A major goal of SST is to establish Sustainable Education and Skills (SEAS) Centres for Employment.

SEAS Centres will be carbon-neutral, “green� buildings located in coastal communities. Their focus will be on equipping impoverished residents with skills, helping them achieve pride in employment, and mitigating their need to damage the marine environment through unsustainable practices.

Article by Stephanie Stack | Photos by Sustainable Seas Trust

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Conservation - Sustainable Seas Trust

SEA PLEDGE LAUNCHED: GOOD NEWS FROM COP 17 The famous diver and ocean conservationist Dr. Sylvia Earle stated, “Without blue, there would be no green.”

These same words were spoken by Chairman of the SABC and former Premier of KwaZulu-Natal, Dr. Ben Ngubane, to the Global Ocean Forum at COP 17 during the official launch of SEA Pledge on the 3rd of December, 2011.

The message is that if we do not care for the oceans, life on land and life in general, will be threatened. Drs. Ben Ngubane and Sylvia Earle are both trustees of Sustainable Seas Trust (SST).

What is SEA Pledge?

In 2011, SST launched its newest initiative, SEA Pledge: a crusade to care for the seas. SST aims to raise awareness about the impact lifestyles can have on the marine world and have people take educated steps in their daily lives.

SEA Pledges are not glorified New Year ’s resolutions; they are commitments to improve our environment. After all, it is only when the masses demand a change that industry and government will take notice. If people make active choices not to abuse the oceans, such as eating less seafood and choosing only sustainably caught fish species, then this will ease the pressures on the marine resources. Scuba divers tend to belong in a group we call the “converted”, meaning they understand the threats to the oceans and already make efforts to live sustainably.

We need the diving fraternity to help us reach those who are “unconverted”.

Scuba diver Robyn Ellor in Sodwana Co n t e n t s

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Conservation - Sustainable Seas Trust

Coastal Tour From October to December 2011, a team of SEA Pledge volunteers travelled the coast of South Africa visiting towns between Saldanha and Sodwana.

The purpose was to spread awareness of the COP 17 meeting in Durban, as well as to meet with government, academics, businesses and individuals about the SEA Pledge initiative and forge partnerships in achieving common sustainability goals.

The team gave lectures, visited schools, met with municipalities and forged partnerships with a number of businesses.

The response to the tour was overwhelmingly positive and enthusiastic.

Many people shared their existing passion for conserving the oceans and wanted to be a part of the change, but they just needed some guidance about how to take action.

SEA Pledge is proud to be a leader and a partner to those wanting to create change.

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From left to right : Jillian Leonard, Jens Currie, Stephanie Stack and Tony Ribbink in Sodwana Bay Contents

Map of coastal road trip Pa g e 7 5 | www.africandiver.com

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Conservation - Sustainable Seas Trust

SEA Pledge Launch SEA Pledge launched on Oceans Day in Durban, on the 3rd of December 2011.

Instead of protesting on the COP 17 Day of Action, SST arranged for people all around the country to head to beaches, where hundreds of people participated in beach days, braais, scuba diving and sailing.

Scuba divers in Sodwana Bay and Gordon’s Bay wrote their Pledges both above and below the surface. In Hermanus, a group gathered to build a giant “handprint for change” sand sculpture.

SAMREC and SEACC students have a Penguin Release at SEA Pledge day (3 Dec) in Port Elizabeth SEACC=South East African Climate Consortium , SAMEC=South African Marine Rehabilitation and Education Centre

In Port Elizabeth, SEA Pledge partnered with the South African Marine Rehabilitation and Education Centre (SAMREC) to organize a penguin release.

In Cape Town, artists from Wavescape and Skeleton Sea painted a mural of a coelacanth and wrote their Pledges on the painting. In Scottburgh, the mayor of the Hibiscus municipality went for a boat ride to, “See the seas”; she even assumed the role of skipper and drove the boat herself!

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Skeleton Sea artist painting Coelacanth mural in Cape Town

Mayor Nomusa Cynthia Mqwebu and Mark Addison of Blue Wilderness Contents

Conservation - Sustainable Seas Trust

These fun activities sent a positive message to the UN that people care about the oceans and want to protect them.

Dr Ribbink conveyed reports on these activities to a high-powered international audience during his SEA Pledge presentation for the Global Ocean Forum at COP 17.

After his presentation, four South African children presented a petition and resolution to the Global Ocean Forum, which they read aloud, calling upon the Global Ocean Forum and the United Nations to support the call for greater care for the oceans and to declare an International Year of Oceans and Coasts. Dr. Biliana Cicin-Sain, president of the Global Ocean Forum, accepted the resolution and vowed she would take the resolution forward to the United Nations and support the call to declare an International Year of Oceans and Coasts.

Picture to the right - Back Row: Luyanda Cele: Head Prefect, Kingsway High School Prashna Buddan: Student, Kingsway High School Amy Cuff: Head prefect, Kingsway High School Front: Ella Addison, Scottburgh Primary School Co n t e n t s

Photo Above (Left to Right): -Biliana President, Global Ocean Forum -Wendy Watson-wright: Executive secretary, Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission of UNESCO -Ben Ngubane: Chairman, SABC Board -Gustavo Fonseca: Head, Natural Resources, Global Environment Facility (GEF) -Tony Ribbink: Director, Sustainable Seas Trust -Philippe Vallette: Co-President, World Ocean Network (WON) -Ella Addison: Student, Scottburgh Primary School (Featured swimming with sharks) -Amy Cuff: Head prefect, Kingsway High School -Prashna Buddan: Prefect, Kingsway High School -Luyanda Cele: Head Prefect, Kingsway High School

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Conservation - Sustainable Seas Trust

Plans for 2012 and Beyond On the road tour SST discovered that although a huge number of divers are certified each year, few continue diving.

One potential reason for this is a lack of goal-oriented diving; some divers need to feel they are making positive and meaningful contributions to conservation or the body of scientific information.

SST would like all divers to place their dive groups on the SEA Pledge Map. An important objective of this is to promote diving in South Africa, while increasing dive tourism and revenue and promoting best dive practices.

Indigo Scuba divers in Gordon’s Bay holding Pledges

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In 2012, SST’s goal is to form partnerships with as many divers and dive companies as possible, to begin the promotion of tourism and involve divers in meaningful research and other conservation projects.

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As a not-for-profit organization staffed by a team of volunteers, SST relies on public support.

To make your Pledge or donation, or to learn more, please visit our website at

www.sst.org.za email info@sst.org.za.

Additionally, stay up to date and support the cause by following @SEAPledge on Twitter and liking the ‘Sustainable Seas Trust and SEA Pledge’ page on Facebook.

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Introducing Pa g e 8 0 | www.africandiver.com

Featured Photographer

Contents

For Fiona the ocean is a mystical and magical place believing the oceans to be a sanctuary worth preserving in a world where sanctuaries are increasingly becoming far too rare and hard to find on earth.

Water as a medium gives a dreamlike silky quality to images and, being drawn to water, Fiona is intent on pursuing this quality and depicting it through her images. With this passion for water foremost in her images she has won international and local photographic competitions. Fiona’s best local success was receiving the award and title of South African Fuji/Getaway Wildlife Photographer of the year award in 2003. In 2002 and 2005 Fiona won the advanced section of the annual Sodwana Shootout competition. Fiona also enjoys sometimes venturing above the water and in 2005 won the Getaway Magazine Image of the year with a climbing shot.

Fiona Ayerst is a freelance photographer and photojournalist. She specialises in adventure sport and underwater stills and has a special interest in sharks. Fiona turned to professional photography in April 2006 after having practised as an Attorney for twelve years. She has not looked back since.

Fiona’s passion for her subjects, their behaviour and what affects them is clear from her images and she uses her images to show divers and non-divers alike the beauty of the ocean and its inhabitants. With a near missionary zeal, Fiona uses her images to promote the oceans to the general public and particularly those who may never get a chance to experience the oceans first hand.

Co n t e n t s

Featured Photographer

She has recently completed a 13-day hike called the Rim of Africa- walking 130 km’s through the wilderness areas of the Kouebokkeveld and Cederberg. Fiona has a particular interest in sharks. This is not only because she was an Attorney, but more importantly because of the rapidly dwindling shark numbers and her interest in their protection and conservation! Every year 100 million sharks are killed worldwide, mostly for their fins while the rest of the body is often tossed overboard as waste. Sharks are interesting and challenging fish to photograph for many reasons, not least of which is their refusal to hang around humans for any length of time (contrary to popular belief).

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Generally a photographer may only catch a fleeting glimpse of a shark as it rushes away into the blue. If one has the luck and patience to get

Fiona is hoping, through her photos and writing, to guide people into taking notice of this fact and then doing something about it.

close enough to photograph one then their muscular lines and colour tones make them incredibly beautiful fish to photograph. They produce

Water doesn’t only occur in the oceans of course, and recently Fiona has

magnificent images that people love looking at. Fiona is a founder

realised that there is much work to be done in dams, pools, ponds and lakes,

committee member of an NPO called Sharklife. This organisation

not to forget – rivers. In fact wherever there is a puddle Fiona would like to

is involved in educating people about the value and beauty of these

be there to try and capture unforgettable images.

creatures.

Fiona’s clientele is diverse, ranging from magazines and commercial Africa is a super-awesome place for photographers and in South Africa

diving/spear fishing companies to private individuals. Recently Fiona has

we live in an incredibly photogenic country with a massive coastline. It

ventured out of her vast blue playground of the ocean and into another

is viable (and easy!) to arrange one day diving with great whites and

blue world - a swimming pool. Fiona currently lives in Mossel Bay where

seals near Simonstown or Mossel Bay and the next with makos and

the visibility makes the area difficult to dive for at least 300 days in the

blue sharks off Cape point, then the following with tigers and raggies

year. Satisfying her need to be underwater, Fiona has spent many hours in

off Durban and then to top if off with whale sharks and mantas in

swimming pools. Very young babies, in particular, make great (and willing)

Sodwana (perhaps with a day of leopards, lions and cheetahs in Phinda

underwater models and up until the age of about 6 months they have no fear

or Umfolozi thrown in for good measure).

of water - small babies automatically hold their breath underwater; perhaps being enveloped by the soft water they are reminded of the womb.

Fiona’s favourite dive spots in Southern Africa include Aliwal Shoal at Umkomaas and Sodwana Bay. The long and lazy coastline of Mozambique

Fiona’s latest venture is an underwater photography internship program

is just on our doorstop and offers Fiona wonderful opportunities for

that kicks off in May 2012 and she is trying to spend a couple of hours a day

diving and adventure along its thousands of kilometers.

away from her 2 year old son, Finn, to write.

South African divers really are spoilt for choice however what many

We asked Fiona what her favourite subject to shoot is; ”I love shooting

don’t realise is that much of it is under threat of one sort or another. Fiona’s

anything that is a challenge and I can’t say I have a favourite subject but I

goal is to take photos that show not only the beauty of our coastline and

think that trying to shoot things from a different and interesting perspective

the animals that live in it, but also the damage and degradation that is

is where I am at right now with my art. Close up wide-angle shots are my

constantly taking place. People have always assumed that the oceans

favourite but this year I am looking into using more negative space in my

can “bounce back” but these days we can’t be so sure of this.

images”.

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Fiona travels the world whenever she gets the chance and writes about adventure travel and conservation for various local and international publications. She also teaches underwater photography, running specialist workshops for photographers in different locations around Africa. She also leads annual trips taking underwater photographers to special places she has found around the world.

Fiona is busy arranging a workshop in Madagascar for April 2012 so please contact her via her website if you feel you would like more information on this. Information on all her comings and goings can be found on www.fionaayerst.com

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”I love shooting anything that is a challenge and I can’t say I have a favourite subject but I think that trying to shoot things from a different and interesting perspective is where I am at right now with my art.

Close up wide-angle shots are my favourite but this year I am looking into using more negative space in my images”.

Fiona Ayerst

Pa g e 9 1 | www.africandiver.com

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