It is a Balancing Act

By Carrie Prowant, Educator and Extension Artist, BosleyMD

Protecting "bio hair" while wearing extensions is a balancing act.

As a hair extension specialists, we have all faced concerns from guests if hair extensions will ruin their hair. The answer to this question is hardly a simple one. There are many variables, but the additional service we have the obligation to provide is care for their biological hair strand. Since 85% of all salon guests have fine or compromised strands, this care is paramount to providing a safe service for our guests.

Learning the Methods

While learning hair extension application methods, stylists will find that every company has a technique they believe is best for every client no matter hair texture and density. Unfortunately, hair extension applications are not "one size fits all." Just as the rules of hair color are often broken, the rules for hair extensions are as well. The safest hair extension technique becomes the one that fits the needs of the client and protects their biological hair most effectively. Learning several different applications will allow for the stylist to learn the reactions of the hair strand, which tells so much in the health of the hair.

One important skill obtained when learning several different application methods is noticing the differences of how hair reacts to the application. You may find that one technique does well at the scalp level, but then causes a high lift blonde’s ends to tangle or break off easily due to extra tension placed on the ends of the hair. Breakage of the ends is still hair loss, just in a different form. At the scalp level, you may find that one technique does not allow for a natural shedding process to release during the resetting of the extensions, causing too much weight on the biological strand. One technique may recommend a shallow application method, but the biological hair requires a deeper application to maintain a density for a match. Knowledge of different applications allows the stylist to take into consideration all that was learned to effectively watch how the hair is reacting. A broader approach to application knowledge allows options in order to combat any stressors that may be put on the biological hair.

Protect the Investment

Any hair addition is a significant investment. However, it could be argued that the most important investment is the one that is a lifelong investment: Biological hair. There are products on the market that tout their effectiveness for softening hair extensions, drying extensions more quickly, and protecting the extensions. But to ignore biological hair that is "under the hood" of extensions is a disservice to the guest.

So, is it possible to have the best of both worlds? Can we treat the hair extensions while also treating the biological hair? In a word, yes. But as stylists we need to also think "outside of the box" as to what we are treating. These following areas of the scalp and hair are often forgotten when the "magic" of hair extensions happens for our guests:

Hair follicle and hair base: There is no application that involves zero tension on the biological hair. Therefore, it is so important to protect and strengthen the integrity of the hair follicle and base. Supplements such as healthy hair growth vitamins and DHT blockers help to nourish the biological hair from the inside out. This can provide a healthy environment for hair to grow and anchor the hair in place. Any time there is an environment for less shedding, there is an environment for less tangling, which helps the hair develop a strong base.

Scalp: There is a push in the industry to a more botanically-based approach for cleansing the scalp. In addition to effective cleansing, ingredients such as saw palmetto, biotin, niacin and panthenol can help to reduce scalp inflammation, and aid in providing a healthy environment for hair to grow and be anchored.

Compromised anchor points: There are areas of the scalp (such as hair near the hairline) that a guest may have a change in density, texture, or hair strength. Hair products that specifically treat these areas may be necessary in combatting conditions such as traction alopecia.

Ends of the hair: Often, when a guest is wearing hair additions, the ends of the biological hair can be a forgotten area, especially when adding length. Heavy creams appropriate for a thicker denier found in the hair extensions may cause limpness and heaviness for the biological hair strand. The weightless property of hyaluronic acid is an amazing alternative that serves the biological hair and the hair additions, while also preventing breakage.

There truly is nothing more rewarding than providing our guests with a service that gives them confidence and a style that they have only ever dreamed to have. The "true magic" happens when the hair additions are removed, and the guest realizes that the service that you provided has also helped to treat their biological hair. Providing such care will build an immeasurable lifelong trust.