United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine September 2009 by Ahmed Aamir

FORONRICHARDMAYORHOPES2016CHICAGO’SOLYMPICM.DALEYGOINGTHEGOLD PG. 11 OLYMPICTHESUPPORTLONG-STANDINGANDSHAWNMEDALISTGYMNASTICSJOHNSONUNITED’SOFU.S.TEAM PG. 14 TRAVEL TIPS FROM CARLIMEDALISTSOCCERLLOYD PG. PLUS130 BUDAPESTDAYS:PERFECTTHREE

Budapest is ﬂourishing again, its grand buildings refaced, its potted streets once more lined with Belgian blocks. city’s rebirth hasn’t diminished its bohemian dreaminess. city has an Old World

But don’t worry—the

feel and rich history accented by raucous bars and trendy shops. No wonder its denizens are so protective of it. BY SARAH HORNE 627076 contentsUNITED.COM|HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM BAKERYMEDIABYPHOTOGRAPH Fisherman’s Bastion in Budapest YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

3 PERFECT DAYS | P. 76 Sept. THE WATCHMAN French thethetimepiecesRichardwatchmakerMilleisbringinguptospeed,creatingmostcomplex,thelightestandmostextravagantavailable. BY STEPHAN PHOTOGRAPHSTALTYBYSTEEVE IUNCKER THE EMPEROR HAS NEW CLOTHES After conquering the Asian market, Japanese retail giant Uniqlo sets its colorful sights on the rest of the world. BY MARK PHOTOGRAPHSHEALYBY JOSHUA LUTZ 3 PERFECT DAYS: BUDAPEST The Hungarian

departments COVER IMAGE Mark Ulriksen // markulriksen.com 6 Contributors 11 Voices With Chicago’s Olympic bid under consideration, Mayor Richard Daley discusses the city’s future. 14 Connections United helps Team USA go for the gold. 16 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 19 Notes From All Over Baseball’s way-way outfield; Josephine Baker’s château; a prettiest-donkey contest; the Berlin Wall rebuilt; and throat singers serenade Brooklyn DIRECTIONS 23 News What to see, where to stay, when to go 27 Goods Gizmos and gear 30 Whirlwind Five hours in St. Louis 33 Whereabouts Actress Rebecca Romijn prefers to play on la playa CULTURE 35 Uncommon Scents Halston gets haute again with a new signature fragrance. By Sarah Horne 37 Scarlett Fever Pete Yorn and Scarlett Johansson make sweet music together on Break Up By Jenny Eliscu 40 SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM INNOVATIONBOOFCOURTESYOUTLINE,ETTLINGER/CORBISMARIONLIBRARY,DALFIANO/PHOTODOCOBYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT,FROMWRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 38 A Shot of Wry The Soup's Joel McHale goes primetime on NBC. By Willa Paskin 40 Collective Memory Author E.L. Doctorow on his latest novel, Homer & Langley By Aaron Gell 42 Cheap Thrills Online game producer Zynga amasses a fortune, one dollar at a time. By Diane Mehta 47 Wok on the Wild Side Chinese food gets a molecular makeover in Hong Kong. By Jay Cheshes 50 Fantasy Football The NFL could use a little help boosting its profile, don't you think? By Jason Gay 53 Hero Lauren Bush's FEED bags are right on trend—and help kids, to boot. By Layla Schlack 55 In Praise of Jet Lag A frequent traveler shares his cure—embrace it and carry on. By Adam Sachs 59 “Shoes” In Cuba, footwear can be the stuff of dreams. By Luís Rafael Hernández 61 Artifact A souvenir from the field 91 Featured Promotion: Investing in People 2340 PLAY 102 Movies, television and audio programming 112 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 124 Crossword, sudoku and quiz 128 Beverages & Food 130 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? +47

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SARAH HORNE A senior editor at Page Six Magazine, Horne has already spent six perfect days with Hemispheres—the ﬁrst three in San Diego and then this month in Budapest (page 76). “It’s a city that immediately gets under your skin—in a good way,” she says. “Though you can’t help but suspect that Hungarians are reluctant to let you in on their secret.” She also writes for Elle, Allure, The Daily Beast, Fashion Week Daily and New York, among others.

JOSHUA LUTZ Usually drawn to “spaces right outside of cities— somewhere between urban and suburban,” Lutz photographed the northern New Jersey mire that’s home to Giants Stadium for his book, Meadowlands, which was recently named one of the Best Photography Books of 2008 by Photo District News. For Hemispheres, he shot Uniqlo (page 70), and “picked up a pair of pants before I left—for less than thirty dollars, of course.”

MARK ULRIKSEN In addition to being an accomplished dog-portraitist, Ulriksen has done illustrations for advertising agencies, book publishers and most major magazines in the U.S., including The New Yorker, to which he’s been a regular contributor since 1983. His latest assignment, this month’s Hemispheres cover, inspired him to go to Budapest. “I’ve never been,” he says, “but I’d like to get there soon.”

ROD O’CONNOR A lifelong Chicagoan and a regular Hemispheres contributor, O’Connor has written for ESPN the Magazine, The Believer, SPIN, Frommer’s Budget Travel, Chicago and Time Out Chicago. The die-hard White Sox fan stepped out of his comfort zone to write about the Cubs this month (page 19). “As a baseball fan, I can’t resist the Wrigley Field mystique.”

6 contributors SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy ASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Fine, Porter Fox, Jason Gay, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Willa Paskin, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Barry Blitt, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERNS Katie Gant, Tiffanie Green, Peter Koch, Ashley Venable PHOTO INTERN Valeria Suasnavas GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Michael Keating US EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com ONLINE TEAM Salah Lababidi, Martin Buhr, Andy Shaw ADVERTISING PUBLISHER Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Al Loise, Catherine Hanson, Cynthia Carns, Issac Ingram, Jonathan Ebert, Ryan Smith REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVES NORTHEAST PJ Lucus TEL: +1 COLORADO973-366-1368 Lauren Grillo TEL: +1 HAWAII303-256-6986 Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SE ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST PRODUCTIONTEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLER Grace Rivera TEL: +1 678-553-8080 EXT 135 Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

JENNY ELISCU A writer for Rolling Stone since 1999 who “can barely remember life before that,” Eliscu is also a DJ on Sirius XMU, an indie station. Her favorite thing about Break Up, by Scarlett Johannson and Pete Yorn (page 37), is that “it really works well as a complete thought,” she says. “I’ve got a soft spot for the cover of Chris Bell’s ‘I Am the Cosmos.’” She’s also excited about Up From Below by Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeroes, “this incredible band from L.A.”

MARK HEALY The director of editorial projects at GQ, Healy has also written for The New York Times and T. An avid traveler, he says his favorite destination is “a place I haven’t been yet but will one day return to.” Of shopping at Uniqlo, the Japanese clothier he proﬁles on page 70, Healy notes, “I spend twenty minutes, tops, in their store, and it’s completely satisfying. I love the clothes and ﬁnd it amazing what they can deliver at such low cost.”

to send your bags ahead. to fly through security. for an oasis in the airport. to stretch out in coach. to let yourself relax. Customize the way you fly at united.com/traveloptions RedClubCarpet®Premier LineSM Economy Plus®Door-to-DoorBaggage

MAYOR RICHARD M. DALEY, the chief executive of the city of Chicago for 20 years now, has been known to hop on his mountain bike for the occasional spin around his South Loop neighborhood. But if he could be an Olympic athlete, he’d be a rower. “It’s a fascinating sport,” says the mayor, who has attended several Olympics. “I really appreciate the discipline, the emphasis on teamwork, the cadence, the need to understand the wind factor—all of it.” Not to mention the incredible view of his favorite city one can get from a seat in a four-man shell kniﬁng through the waters of Lake Michigan. At 67, Daley isn’t apt to actually grab an oar any time soon, but after a near-marathon as Chicago’s mayor, he knows which way the wind is blowing in the so-called Windy City. And having been reelected in 2007 with 71 percent of the vote, he seems to have his constituents pulling together. As he awaits the International Olympic Committee’s October 2 verdict on Chicago’s highly touted bid to host the 2016 Games, Mayor Daley takes a few minutes to speak with Hemispheres about the Olympics, going green and Chicago’s future.

A century ago, urban planner Daniel Burnham laid out The Plan of Chicago, which shaped the city. Did his famous exhortation to “Make no little plans” inﬂuence your own vision? Burnham was right. You can’t limit your goals, or you’ll never be able to fulﬁll them. A great city can’t stand still. You respect the past and honor the present, but you’ve got to look to the future. Whether it’s reversing the Chicago River, keeping the lakefront open, holding the 1893 and 1933 World’s Fairs during tough economic times or creating Millennium Park and Northerly Island, we have never shied away from big plans. How do you keep your eye on the future when there are so many pressing concerns to deal with? It’s easy for mayors to get caught up in the day-to-day, but if you

Mayor Richard M. Daley has spent two decades positioning Chicago to meet the challenges of the 21st century. Now, his biggest gamble yet, the city’s bid for the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games, is heading for the ﬁnish line. BY AARON GELL

The voicesRushGold 11 FISHBEINJIMMYBYPHOTOGRAPH HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

“I don’t lose sight of education or jobs or healthcare or public safety. But it’s also important to look ahead.”

12 SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

voices

There’s a global trend toward urbanization. What challenges and opportunities does that pose? Over the next twentyﬁve years, more and more people around the world will be moving into cities. The cities are where opportunity is, education, jobs. There are huge environmental issues that go with that, housing issues, public transportation. We have to be prepared. What Olympic event are you most looking forward to? Well, you look at the gymnasts and think, “What amazing athletes.” But then you see the swimmers. And the paralympians. They’re really all so amazing. People don’t always realize the discipline that they have and the sacriﬁces that athletes make in their lives to make it to the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Let’s assume Chicago’s bid is successful. What are the chances you’ll be watching as mayor? [Laughs] Well, this is bigger than Mayor Daley. It’s the combined vision of a lot of people. Younger people especially want this for Chicago. They have a real understanding and appreciation for how it can transform their city, shape the culture here and improve their lives.

“Between this team of employees, those within our expansive airport operations at O’Hare, our customer contact center and those already based at the new world headquarters at The United Building, the people of United will be more than 13,000 strong within Chicago city limits,” said Glenn F. Tilton, United chairman and chief executive ofﬁcer. “This represents a further deepening of our commitment to our world-class hometown.”

inUnitedChicago

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don’t see beyond that, a city slowly dies. I don’t lose sight of education or jobs or healthcare or public safety. But it’s also important to look ahead. Has the job of mayor changed in the last 20 years? When I was first elected, it was very uncommon for mayors to travel. In the past ten years, as I see more of the world, I realize that we all are faced with the challenge and opportunity of living and working in a global economy. We no longer compete just with cities in our own countries for jobs, business and tourism, we compete with cities all over the world. What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned during your time in office? Always be willing to change. Nothing’s written in stone. How do you see Chicago’s chances against Rio de Janeiro, Tokyo and Madrid? This is a tough competition. These are great global cities, in great countries, and their governments are supporting their bids financially. In the U.S., that’s not the case. You have to raise private-sector money. So far no government money has been spent at all. That, to me, is amazing. That said, we have the full backing of the Obama administration. He supported us during his campaign, and that’s important because we represent the United States. It’s all part of changing the old image of America. How would the Olympics and Paralympics benefit Chicago? Hosting the 2016 Games is a historic opportunity. From the global attention we’ll receive, the economic growth and the investments we’ll make in our neighborhoods, our city could be transformed. It would also inspire young people around the world to participate in sports. What do you regard as the city’s top selling point? The people. And then our incredible architecture and green space. It’s a little gem. Until you come here you don’t realize how beautiful it is. Are you risking your own political capital with this bid? Maybe, but if you don’t have any vision, what do you stand for? You just worry about making a mistake all the time. Clearly it’s a big challenge in a recession. Everyone’s naturally skeptical. They’re worried. Unemployment is high. But you need to give people some form of hope. What advice do you have for other mayors who might want to lure the games? You need the business community and the nonprofit community working with you, and public support. Beyond that, good planning is essential. We’re not going to build white elephants. For instance, our plans for the Olympic Stadium call for an 80,000-seat venue, but after the games it becomes a much smaller stadium and the additional seats get used in other stadiums and venues.

AS “CHICAGO’S HOMETOWN AIRLINE®,” United is inextricably linked with the Windy City. In early August, our long history of working together, including United’s support of the modernization program at Chicago O’Hare International Airport, took another major step forward: We announced United will move its Operations Center to Willis Tower in the heart of downtown, creating a much-improved work environment for our 2,800 employees and bringing increased tax revenue to the city. Subject to approval by Chicago City Council, this win-win move will ﬁll 460,000 square feet of prime ofﬁce space, representing the largest relocation of jobs to Chicago in recent history and making United the largest private employer based in Chicago.

See for yourself what a world-class city Chicago is. United and United Express touch down in the Windy City more than 500 times a day, with nonstop service from airports on four continents. And whether you’re visiting from the City that Never Sleeps, the City of Angels, the City of Brotherly Love or the City of Lights, stretch out in roomy comfort in United Economy Plus and enjoy up to ﬁve inches of additional legroom. If you’d like to be in Copenhagen on October 2 when the International Olympic Committee selects the site of the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games, United and our Star Alliance partners will get you there. Fly United to London, Frankfurt, Paris, Brussels or Amsterdam and connect seamlessly on SAS or Lufthansa into Copenhagen. God rejse! (That’s Danish for bon voyage!)

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SHAWN JOHNSON would love to see Chicago selected as host city of the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games. For one, the charismatic 17-year-old gymnast knows a little something about the Olympic Games—she brought home gold and silver medals for the U.S. Olympic Team in 2008 in Beijing.

And as a native of the U.S. Midwest—Shawn’s hometown of Des Moines, Iowa, is just a hop, skip and a backflip from Chicago—seeing the games in the Windy City “would be the greatest thingUnitedever.”Airlines shares Shawn’s enthusiasm for the Olympic and Paralympic Games and, like Shawn, is hoping Chicago is selected to host the 2016 Games. Chicago’s bid has been widely supported by the region’s business community, nonprofits, elected officials, athletes and—perhaps most importantly—by Olympics fans across the country. As Chicago’s hometown carrier, United has played an important role in the city’s bid for two years, providing transportation around the world for Chicago 2016. And United will proudly fly the organization to Copenhagen, Denmark, for the October 2 announcement of the selection.

United proudly supports the Olympics and U.S. Olympic Team

GOOD

United has served as the official airline of the U.S. Olympic Team for three decades. For United employees—from customer service agents and ramp workers at dozens of airports to ﬂight attendants on board and pilots in command—ﬂying the U.S. Olympic Team is a tremendous source of pride. For a specialized group of reservations sales agents, staffing United’s dedicated Olympic Desk has been a unique privilege, enabling them to get to know U.S. Olympic Committee employees personally. These are relationships that—to United—are worth their weight in gold. Visit chicago2016.org for more information.

For the Gold

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

CUBS SCOUT Shawn Johnson throws the ﬁrst pitch at Wrigley Field.

SPORTS 14 connections

IMAGESTAMA/GETTYMARIOBYPHOTOGRAPHCADDO LAKE, TEXAS // PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDY ANDERSON SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 16 wish you were here

STILL WATERS // Cypress trees draped in Spanish moss frame a fisherman on a still Texas morning.

“It’s not the team philosophy to hit the three-run homer anymore,” laments the mustachioed Moe Mullins, 58, who started ballhawking at the age of eight and has a collection of more than 5,200 baseballs. His usual spot is between two oak trees on Waveland. “Your Sosas and McGwires are gone. And it’s a shame.” Ballhawks arrange their work shifts around games and study weather forecasts for hints on wind speed and direction. In exchange, they tend to acquire amazing collections of memorabilia. Buhrke’s stash includes a ball hit by Willie Mays, and Mullins sold a Sammy Sosa homer on eBay for, well, a lot. So far tonight’s game is a throwback to power: six home runs, including a fourth-inning grand slam to left-center and onward to West Waveland. It ﬂoats near Mullins’ oak trees, but Dave Davison—the

dispatches

ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU 19

BackstreetBallers Chicago To ﬁnd the most dedicated Chicago Cubs fans, you have to leave the stadium.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | S EPTEMBER 2009 NOTES FROM ALL OVER

“SOONER OR LATER, somebody’s gonna pull one to left-center,” predicts Rich Buhrke, a wiry 63-year-old in a Chicago Cubs cap. He grabs his baseball glove and jogs back to his preferred spot near the corner of West Waveland and North Kenmore avenues, just outside the walls of Wrigley Field, and waits for a home run to sail over the red brick cornice above.

Buhrke has been roaming Wrigley’s shadows as a “ballhawk” for 50 straight seasons, one of a rotating cast of 10 or so characters who chase balls that clear the bleachers, something that seems to happen less and less often.

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM dispatches

“It didn’t land,” he responds proudly. “I caught it.”

“We used to end the tour here,” says Saint-Exupéry, “but it was too sad.” Now the youngest and ballhawk—streaksfastestby and snags the ball in midair. All’s fair in the world of the ballhawk. The fans looking down from the bleachers above roar at Davison’s athleticism.Astheecstatic crowd pours out of Wrigley (the Cubs, who are ﬂirting with .500 ball, won 9–5), two middle-aged guys walk up to Davison and ask where the ball landed.

One warm summer morning on a quiet street in East Berlin, a tall, bespectacled Russian muralist named Dmitri Vrubel stands in front of a section of the Berlin Wall, surveying an expanse of fresh whitewash. He’s here to repaint a famed piece of graffiti that has graced this stretch of concrete for years. Around him stand a handful of fellow artists who, like him, decorated the once-forbidden east side of the wall in the autumn of 1989, during the German reunification. They are part of a preservationist movement seeking to repair a structure they once cursed. Since the first days of Reunification, which became official 19 years ago next month, the Berlin Wall has been systematically dismantled by a euphoric populace, not to mention hammer-wielding tourists and souvenir collectors. Chunks of the graffiti-covered concrete turned up in museums, private art collections and on eBay. A few sections of this 96-mile-long symbol of totalitarian brutality remain, however. And now Vrubel and 117 other artists, known as the Artists Initiative East Side Gallery, have taken up the task of repairing one such section, which featured Vrubel’s most famous work, now an emblem of the fall of the Soviet Empire. Called the “Bruderkuss,” it depicted bushy-browed Soviet Premier Leonid Brezhnev planting a Communist smooch on the lips of his East German counterpart, Erich Honecker. For years, teenagers wore T-shirts featuring the “brother kiss” and tacked it to dorm room walls, even as the original artwork faded and peeled. They’ve begun repairs just in time, says Kani Alavi, an Iranian-born artist who heads the Initiative. “If the city hadn’t finally agreed to do something,” he says, “the wall would have just fallen over.” —RACHEL NOLAN Off the Wall Berlin 20

Périgord, France SIREN SONG As birthday gifts go, the Château des Milandes was pretty sweet. Though a ﬁxerupper, the 15th century pile on a hillside in southwest France, which Angélique de Saint-Exupéry’s parents bestowed upon her when she turned 25, had real promise. In the eight years since, she has planted 4,000 box hedges, replaced sections of the roof and made the interior over into a museum celebrating the legacy of chanteuse Josephine Baker— known in France as simply La Baker—who lived here from 1947 to 1969. The château is where the performer located her “World Village.” Before Madonna or Angelina or even Mia Farrow, Baker became a tabloid sensation by adopting a “rainbow tribe” of 12 children, each of a different nationality. On a balmy morning in June, 41 years after Baker lost the deed to the property and vowed never again to sing in France, SaintExupéry regales a group of visitors with tales of the diva’s life (admission to the property runs eight euros), as an older man lingers nearby. This turns out to be Akio Bouillon, Baker’s eldest son, a Korean orphan adopted in 1954. Bouillon turns up randomly a few times a year, just to chat with visitors. He prefers not to enter, however, because the memories of times that were at ﬁrst wonderful and then not so good are simply tooInside,intense.visitors move through rooms displaying Baker’s sparkly frocks, her scandalous banana skirt and her famous bathroom, inspired by a Lanvin perfume bottle. A few of them peer closely at a photo of Baker at Martin Luther King’s 1963 March on Washington. They follow Saint-Exupéry into the kitchen, where a penniless Baker barricaded herself in a futile attempt to avoid eviction, an incident Bouillon, 16 at the time, prefers not to relive.

ROD O’CONNOR

The ensemble is in Brooklyn to play a gig at Zebulon, a cozy bar off Bedford Avenue. During sound-check, Quirk, who sports granny glasses and a reddish ponytail, explains the nuances of xöömei, as throat-singing is known. By enhancing overtones present in ordinary vocalizations, a xöömei singer produces multiple pitches simultaneously. The eerie sounds are said to imitate nature as experienced on the Tuvan steppe: The low-pitched drone called kargyraa evokes the lowing of a yak, while sygyt, a shrill whistle, resembles the wailing of the wind.

As Quirk ﬁnishes speaking, band members appear onstage in silken costumes and take up their instruments, which resemble lutes topped by wooden horse heads. As they play to a packed house, Quirk passes a bucket around for donations. “Siberia’s a long way from here,” he says.

beastshavetheirhavethoughtmockumentary—“anditwouldbefuntoacontestwithkidsanddressed-upburros.”Thisyear,20childrengiventheirfamilyanewburdenofsorts,

“This is the best,” says Larry Castriotta, an American realtor who, like the other guests, paid $28 to attend. “The burros are hysterical.” Though she didn’t win, fourth-grader Leticia Paredes Mendoza smiles broadly as she pulls her bridal-clad burro toward the mariachi band. “I love having all these people in our town. It’s like the biggest wedding ever.”

—JEFF BERCOVICI andSweetLow Brooklyn, New York 21 ﬁnale is a dining room with a grand piano. A wax ﬁgure of a young, glamorous Baker presides over a table set for 12. Photos on the piano include one of Saint-Exupéry on her wedding day at the château. “We destroyed the parquet,” she recalls with a laugh. “So much dancing!” “Josephine wouldn’t have minded,” someone says.

The four members of Alash Ensemble, a traditional throat-singing group from the Russian republic of Tuva, have seen a lot in their global travels. They’ve played a private concert for Vladimir Putin, recorded with banjo virtuoso Béla Fleck and appeared on Late Show with David Letterman. But nothing seems to have prepared them for a sight that greets them on their recent trip to New York: Williamsburg hipsters. “I tried to explain what they are, but I failed,” says Sean Quirk, Alash’s American-born manager and interpreter. “The Tuvans were like, ‘Are they a gang?’”

A former bike messenger from Wisconsin, Quirk is the foremost Western practitioner of xöömei. In 2003, he moved to Tuva on a Fulbright fellowship, and he became a member of the national orchestra, married a local woman and started a family. Life in a former Soviet province inﬂuenced by the nomadic culture of nearby Mongolia has required some adjustment. “I had to learn little things, like never shake hands with somebody through a doorway,” he says, “and big things, like when I invited some people to my house for a drink and three days later they’re still there.”

JEANNIE RALSTON one in a wedding dress. Nor one in black go-go boots. Which is why fans turn up each year in the poor pueblo of Jalpa, just outside San Miguel de Allende, for the annual Burro Festival. “Burros are such an integral part of campo life in Mexico,” notes Sara Tylosky, codirector of FINO, a local nonproﬁt, as she giggles at a reluctant pageant participant that has to be pushed across the ﬁeld. FINO sponsors the event to raise money for the classes in English and leadership it offers the children of Jalpa. “A few years ago, one of our volunteers saw Best in Show”—the dog show

CAROLINE TIGER Jalpa, Mexico LET US BRAY On a dusty soccer field ringed by mountains and elephanteared cacti, a small burro does a sort of striptease, its pajama pants slowly slipping off its hindquarters as it parades in front of 300 spectators huddled under tents, parasols and mesquite trees. A burro in pajamas is not a common sight in Mexico. But then, neither is wrapping multicolored beads around stout necks, poking holes in straw hats to accommodate floppy ears and slipping stockings over spindly legs. Each child entering the pageant receives a different bilingual book from a local bookstore; each burro gets a bushel of carrots and an award, such as Most Elegant, Best Tail and Least Stubborn. This year’s Best in Show prize—decided by audience applause—goes to third-grader Guadalupe Parades Anaya and his burro Gofi, who sports a floral skirt, a long braided wig, thick blue eyeshadow and black construction paper eyelashes that render its huge brown eyes unimaginably soulful. Guadalupe is awarded a pair of walkie-talkies; Gofi gets braying rights. After the pageant, the locals treat visitors to a meal of gorditas, carnitas, enchiladas and chicharones.

FOR A TOUGHWORLD™ TOUGHBOOK Intel, the Intel logo, Centrino, Centrino Inside, Intel vPro and vPro Inside are trademarks of Intel Corporation in the U.S. and other countries. Toughbook notebook PCs are covered by a 3-year limited warranty, parts and labor. Toview the full text of the warranty, log on to panasonic.com/business/toughbook/support.asp. Please consult your Panasonic representativeprior to purchase.Panasonic is constantly enhancing product speciﬁcations and accessories. Speciﬁcations subject to change without notice. (*CF-52EV, CF-52GF and CF-52GU, **CF-30K, ***CF-F8EW are Intel® Centrino® 2 with vPro™ technology)©2009 Panasonic Corporation of North America. All rights reserved. Wireless_H_PCS_FY09-1 INYOUR YOUDON’TWORLD,HAVE TIME TOSTOP TOCONNECT.FORCOFFEE Toughbook 30**Toughbook 52*ToughbookH1Toughbook F8***ToughbookU1 Panasonic recommends Windows Vista® Business. BUYNOW: $50OFF THEPURCHASEPRICEOF YOURFIRSTTOUGHBOOKCOMPUTER AVAILABLE FROMPORTABLECOMPUTERSYSTEMSAT 1.877.357.3350 /PANASONIC.PORTABLECOMPUTERSYSTEMS.COM. OFFERAPPLIESTOALLTOUGHBOOK MODELS. LIMITEDTIMEOFFER.COUPON CODEUNITED

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009 23

Romannews Holiday

Through the end of the month, camera-toting tourists in Italy’s capital have the chance to take part in something usually reserved for the ghosts of slain gladiators: a nighttime stroll through the Colosseum. The after-hours tour will lead visitors through an exhibit on the Flavian dynasty, which erected the giant stone stadium almost 2,000 years ago. A couple blocks away, the Temple of Romulus is also providing a rare treat: It’s opening its doors. Usually closed to the public, the temple will allow visitors a peek at its eighth century frescoes. 060608.it

PICTURES/PHOTOLIBRARYXBRANDBYPHOTOGRAPH directions

smithsonianmag.com/museumday

GOOD EVENING, VIETNAM // As tensions rose in Saigon in 1959, sanctuary-seeking journalists ﬂocked to the Caravelle Hotel to nervously sip cocktails at the rooftop bar. Fifty years later, Saigon is Ho Chi Minh City and its streets are considerably calmer, but the Caravelle remains. To celebrate its golden anniversary, the hotel is knocking half off the price of rooms booked online through the end of the month. It won’t bring rates back to those of the Kennedy era, but it’ll leave you with enough to grab a drink on the roof. caravellehotel.com

COURTIMAGES,BUCHANAN/GETTYCHADBORLENGHI,ROLEX/CARLOOFCOURTESYPHOTO,THIAN/APVINCENTBYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISEESY FOUNDATIONFAMILYDISNEYWALTOFCOURTESYHILLYER,ART/JONATHANOFMUSEUMHIGHOFCOURTESYHOTEL,CARAVELLETHEOF

SEPTEMBERCALENDAR24 10-13 SAN FRANCISCO // Watch yachts blow through the bay at the Rolex Big Boat Series, and be glad you’re on solid ground. regattanews.com 11-13 ISLE OF WIGHT // With a name like Bestival, this zany music fest is bound to be good. Perhaps even the best. bestival.net 12-13 LONDON // Celebrating bodies of water is always more fun than it sounds. Allow the Thames Festival to demonstrate. thamesfestival.org 15-20 LOUISVILLE // Learn the delicate art of a bourbon distillery or, you know, just sip some at the Kentucky Bourbon Festival. kybourbonfestival.com 19- OCTOBER 14 MUNICH // There’s more to Germany than lederhosen, like absolutely enormous pretzels. Never is that more clear than during Oktoberfest. oktoberfest.de 2-4 AUSTIN // Yes, the Austin City Limits Music Festival is named after the PBS series. And no, Jim Lehrer will not be there. Pearl Jam will. aclfestival.com

TOON TIME // When people hear the name Walt Disney, they’re more likely to think of mice, movies or amusement parks than the visionary who created those things. That may change once The Walt Disney Family Museum opens in San rodent.helpbusiness—withbiggestwhoofthemdrawingsofmuseumiconiclendPresidio.Francisco’sMeanttoinsightintotheanimator,theholdsmanyDisney’searlyandusestotellthestoryaboyfromChicagobecameoneofthenamesinshowtheofalarge-eared disney.go.com

PRIX-VIEW // Remember that racecar bed you had as a kid? You’d close your eyes and suddenly be rocketing down Monte Carlo streets at 220 miles per hour, leaving a hapless Mario Andretti in your dust. This month, you can experience some of that thrill again with Fullerton Hotel Singapore’s Grand Prix package. Guests will receive exclusive entry to the Fullerton’s trackside rooftop during the Singtel Singapore Grand Prix. There, they’ll have a bird’s-eye view of racers screaming around the hairpin Turn 13, all for the princely sum of $1,400 per night. Unfortunately, the beds don’t look like racecars here, but on the plus side, they’re much more relaxing. fullertonhotel.com

FREE RIDE // There’s no excuse not to be cultured—not after September 26. That’s when hundreds of museums across the country will ﬂing open their doors for free as part of Smithsonian Museum Day. Your toughest decision won’t be whether to visit, but how many.

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LEICA DREAM D-Lux 4 Safari / $995 / leica-camera.com 27 DIRECTIONS | SEPTEMBER 2009

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The exalted German cameramaker Leica has been inventing new ways to snap beautiful pictures since 1923. Their latest offering, the limited-edition digital compact D-Lux 4 Safari, is just the thing for travelers looking to stylishly capture wildebeests and giraffes. The 10.1-megapixel camera has a 24- to 60-millimeter zoom lens and a three-inch LCD display with Leica’s own color-matching, contrast and picture-deﬁning systems, so you know right away exactly how good your pictures look. Just as important, though, is how good you look when you're taking them.

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 28 1 3. PUNCTUALFASHIONABLYPresident Obama knows what time it is: He sports a Jorg Gray 6500, originally designed for the Secret Service. $325 / jorggray.com 2. IN THE BAG Bodhi’s sleek and functional ostrich briefcase means no more having to bury your head in the sand. $2,688 / bodhibags.net 1. MADE IN THE SHADES Oliver Zodiac,andincludingthroughdesignsGoldsmith’sfromthe1940sthe’70s,theAudreythetortoiseshellareback. / $362 / 4.olivergoldsmith.comSCENTOFAMAN The new Coach for Men is fresh and leathery (what would you expect?) and was inspired by president Reed Krakoff’s travels around the world. $75 / coach.com goods 5. THE WHEEL DEAL The three-gear Townie by Electra Bike boasts Flat Foot Technology for stability and comfort. Time to replace the car? $498 / electrabike.com 2 4 3 5

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Step outside and—wait, is that a casino over there? Yes, it’s the Lumière Place (999 N. 2nd St., lumiereplace. com). Stop in for some ﬂeet-footed high-class shopping, and on the way out, slap a $20 on black. ( 1:10 )

Collect your winnings and ask a cabbie to take you past the Old Cathedral, the ﬁrst west of the Mississippi; the Old Courthouse, where the Dred Scott case was tried; and the new Busch Stadium, where the honorable Albert Pujols presides. ( 1:16 )

Grab another cab to Forest Park, home to spectacular ﬂora, energetic fauna and a boatload of cultural institutions. Speaking of boats, stop by the newly renovated Boathouse (6101 Government Dr., boathouseforestpark.com), hop in a paddleboat and work off that stout. ( 3:05 )

Forgot where you put your thrill? There it is—at Blueberry Hill (6504 Delmar Blvd., blueberryhill.com), where guitar legend Chuck Berry regularly performs in the Duck Room. Kneel and declare, “I am not worthy.” Then order “The Lou’s” favorite dish: toasted ravioli. ( 4:40 )

Finally, run across the street to Fitz’s Root Beer (6605 Delmar Blvd., fitzsrootbeer.com), slap a bill on the soda fountain, tell them you have a plane to catch, and demand one of their magnificent root beer floats. While you’re waiting, watch the “jerks” bottle the delectable root beer, which is made right there on the premises. How refreshing. ( 5:00 )

Hop out at the Schlafly Tap Room (2100 Locust St., schlafly.com), the state’s first brewpub and now St. Louis’ largest locally owned brewery. Try the beer sampler and leave with a souvenir shirt heralding your support for the 21st Amendment (that’s the one that repealed Prohibition). ( 2:12 )

Enter the city with a walk under the Gateway Arch (gatewayarch.com). Wow, it’s big. No time to climb to the top, but poke your head in the Museum of Westward Expansion and see if you can tell the difference between Lewis and Clark. ( 0:25 )

Find your way to Delmar Loop (Delmar Blvd. between Kingsland and Des Peres aves., ucityloop.com) for a relaxing stroll down the St. Louis Walk of Fame. Step on local greats: Miles Davis, Maya Angelou, T.S. Eliot—and some not-quite-as-greats—bowling “legend” Dick Weber, rapper Nelly. ( 3:55 )

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33 DIRECTIONS | SEPTEMBER 2009 COHENDOMINIQUEBYJEWELRYVERSACE,BYDRESSOUTLINE;GUY/CORBISJACKBYPHOTOGRAPH

“Now we have six-month-old twins, Dolly Rebecca Rose and Charlie Tamara Tulip, so travel is tough. I have a lot of family in Holland, so we'd love to take them there soon, but it's basically just been road trips since they were born. We’ve taken them on one plane ride so far. Hopefully they’ll be old enough to hang out on the beach in Mexico soon.”

The PlacesIGo: Rebecca whereaboutsRomijn

“WE REALLY LIKE GOING down to Mexico, the Caribbean side. My husband, Jerry O'Connell, and I have gone to Playa del Carmen four or ﬁve times. It’s magical. We love the Latin culture. I don’t want to reveal the place we stay, because it's so tiny and private, and I don’t want it to become overrun. The ﬁrst time, we went for three days, and we just totally fell for it.

REBECCA ROMIJN stars in Eastwick, premiering this month on ABC.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009 35

In the 1970s, gasoline wasn’t the only precious ﬂuid Americans lined up to buy. Now Halston’s beloved signature scent is making a comeback.

IMAGESMCDARRAH/GETTYW.FREDBYHALSTONOFPHOTOGRAPH

SARAH HORNE is a lover of all things fashion—except for the romper fad.

UncommonScents

FASHION PLAY Halston and Elsa Peretti’s perfume bottles

culture

ART & COMMERCE style

// BY SARAH HORNE IN THE DREARIEST HOURS of the 1970s, when oil prices were as high as the hemlines, Halston’s shirt dress made him the ultimate American sportswear designer. It was the embodiment of minimalism, but with a sexy wink—equal parts Jackie Kennedy and Bianca Jagger. Halston deﬁned ’70s fashion in the same way that Andy Warhol (a friend of the designer’s) epitomized the art world, and his self-titled fragrance became the second-best-selling of all time. In 1984, six years before his death, Roy Halston Frowick lost the right to his name—and his legacy. Money men swooped in to divide the spoils, resulting in an endless string of déclassé licensing deals. An unlikely hero arrived in the person of movie mogul Harvey Weinstein, who acquired the brand in 2007, leading to hopes that it would once again attire moneyed beauties and lend bankable stars that cool, decadent whiff of Studio 54. Since its relaunch, Halston has been quietly gaining momentum. When the Spring 2010 collection debuts this month in New York under the creative direction of Marios Schwab, the front row will get a preview of Pure Metallic, Halston’s revamped fragrances for men and women, in platinum-ﬁnished versions of the bottles originally created by jewelry designer Elsa Peretti. And just like in the ’70s, a dab at the neck may be just the thing to stave off recession fatigue.

Palm Tree Pendant with Diamonds$379 Matching Earrings available from $399 Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold Chain additional OAHU: Ala Moana Center Waikiki Beachwalk Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Lahaina Cannery The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) Hyatt Regency Maui Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIGISLANDOFHAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOSANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SANDIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SANFRANCISCO:Pier 39 SANJOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

CULTURE | SEPTEMBER 2009

// BY JENNY ELISCU

Alex Chilton’s beloved and inﬂuential 1970s power-pop act gets a lavish box-set treatment. Highlights of the four-discunmissablesetaretoonumeroustonameandaremanifestly,unfailinglybig.

THE IDEA OF RECORDING an album of duets with Scarlett Johansson came to Pete Yorn like a bolt of lightning. It happened during an afternoon nap and started with crooner Serge Gainsbourg and Brigitte Bardot. “The image I had in my head of Bardot brought Scarlett to mind,” he says. This was back in the spring of 2006, and Yorn didn’t know that Johansson was already working on her own album— Anywhere I Lay My Head, a collection of Tom Waits covers. For the actress, it sounded like a fine idea. “He said, ‘Hey, I had this crazy dream that we made an album. Do you want to record one with me?’” she recalls. “And I said, ‘Sure, why not?’” Yorn’s dream is realized with Break Up, a graceful collection of nine winsome, woozy retro-pop duets that muse on variations of romantic disentanglement. The ethereal “Someday” is dirgelike and bittersweet, with a haunting banjo refrain. “Relator” uses a honky-tonk guitar line and folksy verse-trading, evoking Lee Hazlewood and Nancy Sinatra at their contentious best with its sour-grapes chorus: “You don’t relate to me, little girl.” “We wanted to capture the unspoken conversation between two people when they break up—the frustration you feel when you know the relationship’s not going anywhere, but you can’t let go,” says Johansson, who last year married hunky actor Ryan Reynolds. “We are really speaking to each other through theScarJosongs.”brings the same authentic cool to her singing as she does to her film roles. At times, her aloof delivery echoes Nico, the doomed chanteuse of the Velvet Underground. Break Up is an ideal showcase for Johansson’s voice—a smoky rasp she’s had since she was a girl. “I wanted to be a Broadway kid, so I used to sing a lot of Gershwin,” she says. “I was listening to our album the other day for the first time in a while,” says Yorn, “and I remember thinking, ‘Did we put an old-timey effect on her 37 voice later?’ But that’s just the way she sounds naturally, which is very bizarre.”

JENNY ELISCU is a contributing editor at Rolling Stone. sound Lately, PJ has become a steady touring act. But their ﬁrst release in three years is a raucous, deﬁant declaration that the boys from Seattle still have studio chops. As Eddie Vedder sings on “The Fixer”: “Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah!”

Scarlett Fever

Pearl Jam BACKSPACER Big Star KEEP AN EYE ON THE SKY Os Mutantes HAIH OR AMORTECEDOR ALSO THIS MONTH What else to listen to on the go in September Hollywood honey Scarlett Johansson and songwriter Pete Yorn open up about Break Up, their new album of smoky, love-gone-wrong songs.

Adored by everyone from Kurt Cobain to Beck, the legendary São Paulo ensemble, which melded British invasion sounds with bossa nova, releases its ﬁrst album in 35 years. As hoped, it’s beautiful and bizarre in equal measure.

“Even as a kid, I had a deep voice,” Johansson says. “Everyone would ask me if I had a cold, and I’d say, ‘No, I just sound like this.’ I wasn’t able to sing anything from Annie, but I could belt out a good Ethel Merman.”

A Shot of Wry

“If you had told me ten years ago that I would be doing a television show with Chevy Chase I would have been like, alright, what kind of drug are you on?” McHale says, “because that seems very unlikely.” To cope with the strangeness, McHale likes to pepper his costar with lines from Fletch, to which Chase happily replies in character.

JOEL MCHALE FANS, it’s your lucky day. This fall, the longtime host of E!’s The Soup, the smart and scathing weekly dissection of reality TV, is taking on a new gig: leading man in NBC’s big-hearted single-camera comedy Community, about Jeff Winger, a fasttalking lawyer forced to return to community college. (“I thought you had a bachelor’s degree from Columbia,” an old client says. “And now I need to get one from America,” Jeff replies.)

Ken Burns partners with PBS for an epic six-parter exploring National Parks from Death Valley to the Grand Canyon. With tales of tree-huggers and wily opportunists, Burns pulls off a coup—he makes parks exciting. Debuts September 27. Decadent and incisive, this jet-settingshowcasesdocumentarytheorange-tintedfashiongod’slavishlifestyle—aroundwithhisposseofpugs—andtheattentiontodetailthat’smadehimalegend.

BY WILLA PASKIN

On DVD this valentinomovie.commonth. The best primetime soap in the history of drama (sorry, Aeschylus) is back, with some spawn of the old cast mingling with Hollywood vixens andresistWe’dtwentysomethings.reallyliketoit,butthenwesaidthatabouttheoriginal,too.

Asked what he would study if he wound up going back to college, McHale, a husband and father of two, ponders for second before suggesting gymnastics. “I should probably have skipped college,” confesses the actor, who holds an MFA in acting from the University of Washington. “I kind of dillydallied around when I was there.” Somehow, we don’t doubt it. But he seems to have made something of himself after all.

Certainly, the schedule will be punishing: The comedian works on jokes for The Soup while on set for Community and tapes his E! show late on Thursday night. The worst part of that hectic schedule may be the way it’s cut into his TV-watching time. “That’s sad,” he says. “But then again, some people don’t consider missing The Bachelor tragic. They see it as liberating and cause for celebration.”

Needless to say, McHale’s days of being mistaken for Ryan Seacrest are over. “I ﬁgure that at any moment I’m going to be struck by lightning while choking on a chicken bone, and it’ll all stop,” McHale says of the good fortune that now has him starring in two television shows simultaneously (he is also appearing in October’s Steven Soderbergh farce The Informant!).

(MELROSE)CWDESMOND/THEMICHAELOFCOURTESY(PARKS),MELLISHCRAIGOFCOURTESY(MCHALE),RUTHERFORDMARLABYPHOTOGRAPHS

With Community, his new NBC sitcom, funnyman Joel McHale of E!’s The Soup finally makes the grade.

Community, an ensemble show about a diverse group of back-to-schoolers who meet, bicker and bond in an adulted Spanish class, has NBC’s plum Thursday night comedy spot, right after The Office. The show costars Chevy Chase as a politically incorrect student (sample line: “Sexually harassing you? That makes no sense to me. Why would I harass someone who turns me on?”).

Premieres September 8.

The National Parks: America’s Best Idea Melrose Place Valentino: The Last Emperor vision What else to watch on the go in September ALSO THIS MONTH

WILLA PASKIN is the features editor for BlackBook magazine.

©2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Opt for the lines less traveled. Premier Line.SM Purchase access to the Premier ® check-in line, priority security line, and priority boarding. united.com/traveloptions

// BY AARON GELL

A Scottish medical student delves into the intellectual ferment in post-RevolutionaryParisin Rebecca Stott’s provocative new novel, a swirl of history, andevolutionaryphilosophy,scienceintrigue,withabitofromancethrownintothemix.

A couple years ago, New York–based author Colin Beavan and his family resolved to reduce their No.howhisfootprint—toenvironmentalzero.Inwrylyfunnynewmemoir,heexplainstheydidit.(Hint1:notoiletpaper.)

Global warming got you down? Cheer up! It could be much, much worse—at least if the brilliant Margaret Atwood’s latest dystopian yarn is any indication. Think humanity in peril, genetic mutants running amok and other treats. The Coral Thief No Impact Man The Year of the FloodTHIS MONTH What else to read on the go in September

ALSO

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM print

Hemispheres editor in chief AARON GELL really ought to straighten up his workspace.

The notorious Collyer brothers lived like hermits in a Fifth Avenue brownstone packed to the rafters with newspapers and junk. With Homer & Langley, novelist E.L. Doctorow pays the boys a visit.

40 FEW NEW YORKERS took much notice of the failed 2002 proposal by the Harlem Fifth Avenue Block Association that Collyer Brothers Park, a tiny uptown parcel, be renamed Reading Tree Park. But to E.L. Doctorow, author of Ragtime, Billy Bathgate and The March, among other historically minded novels, the bid to bury one of the city’s more fascinating chapters felt like an affront. A pair of notorious hermits from a well-to-do family, the magniﬁcently disheveled Homer and Langley Collyer occupied a stately Fifth Avenue brownstone ﬁlled with auto parts, pianos and other refuse scavenged from the city’s streets. Battling local authorities, bill collectors and neighbors, they became objects of intense tabloid fascination before being found dead in 1947. (Langley’s demise was especially poignant: He was felled by a booby trap of his own devising and buried under toppled bales of his newspapers.) “They achieved a kind of mythic status,” Doctorow says of the subjects of his latest novel, Homer & Langley, sitting in his office overlooking Upper Sag Harbor Cove. “They became part of the folklore of the city.” The author bristles at the view of the brothers as “pack rats,” preferring to see them “aggregators—sortas of like Google.” In some ways, they resemble Doctorow himself, who has been known to make good literary use of scraps of history the rest of us overlook. “You do pick things up along the way and store them in your mind,” he says, admitting his home office could use tidying up. “My wife has compared me to the Collyers,” he says with a sigh.

In Doctorow’s ﬁction, however, there’s nary a word out of place. Homer & Langley is sparse and poetic, at times conjuring whole eras—the Jazz Age, the late ’60s— in just a few haunting passages. One of the book’s great pleasures is the way it casts a strange new light on American social history by essentially viewing it through the slats of the brothers’ shuttered windows. “I think of it as a road novel in which they don’t actually leave the house,” he says. “Instead, the world comes to them.” Naturally, the author has taken a few liberties. For one, he’s extended the Collyers’ lives by several decades. “I’ve given them longevity,” he jokes, “and they didn’t even have to go on a diet!” He’s also relocated their townhouse a good mile south on Fifth Avenue, to the Upper East Side. The brothers’ former neighbors would surely approve.

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BY DIANE MEHTA BY JOHN HERSEY

// ILLUSTRATION

42 industry SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM Cheap Thrills

Online game company Zynga based its business on social networking and Now it’s reaping the rewards.

YOUR NEW NEIGHBOR “Steph” just sent you some cherries and avocados, which will ﬁt nicely in a tidy little plot next to your eggplants. You’ve still got your heart set on growing oranges, but unless another friend decides to throw some extra inventory your way, they’re still well beyond your means. That is, unless you cheat by enhancing your virtual spending power with actual cash. After all, this isn’t a real farm, but a wildly popular social networking game called FarmVille, which is played on Facebook around the world. While the game itself is free to play, real cash can go a long way. Ten bucks gets you 15,800 “coins,” enough for a toolshed, some corn, a bunch of apple trees, a chicken and those oranges. Want to invest? Buy a cow with the leftover change, milk it and earn even more coins. In the wild new frontier of online social gaming, such microtransactions are

Since becoming the top application developer on Facebook last year—with 50 million active monthly users—Zynga has earned as much as $100 million (the company prefers not to disclose the actual ﬁgure). Between the various available platforms, 15 million people play the top four Zynga games every day. That’s a lot of microtransactions. And as the technology pushes social gaming beyond Facebook, Zynga, which already has a hammerlock on more than half the social network gaming market, is only going to get bigger.

REALITYVIRTUAL PHOTOLANCIA/ISTOCKGIUSEPPEBYPHOTOGRAPH

Zynga isn’t the only gaming company reaping high margins from micropayments, and while a virtual pinky ring may sound frivolous, so do many of the goods offered by Zynga’s competitors. In Pet Society, for instance, a game developed by Playfish, users can outfit their free virtual pets with accessories like a hot tub ($1.70) or a chalkboard ($2.55). Remarkably, Playfish is forecast to pull in about $30 million this year. That’s a lot of imaginary chewtoys. Meanwhile, an ecosystem of companies is involved in each microtransaction: PayPal and Paymo handle the money, for instance, and companies such as Blockbuster insert ads and coupons. Now Facebook, sensing an opportunity, is set to introduce “credits” for purchase that can be used in any Facebook apps to buy virtual goods. That’s a game changer—and it’s not the only one. Apple’s new OS 3 for the iPhone, which arrived this summer, will be a boon for companies such as Zynga. Whereas before you could download its iPhone apps for free, the phone didn’t allow in-game microtransactions; OS 3 does. Want to purchase a new barn for your FarmVille farm? Go ahead. Nick Gibson, an analyst at Games Investor Consulting, says in 2008 the market for social networking games was about $90 million in North America and Europe; with the introduction of the OS 3 iPhone, he predicts the business will triple in 2009.

Cost of a hen in FarmVille: 400 coins (or less than $1) Cost of a hen in real life: $2.32 purelypoultry.comat

To that end, Zynga recently released two new entries: a restaurant game called Café and the breakout hit FarmVille, a nod to Pincus’ interest in sustainable foods. FarmVille isn’t exactly a riveting game. Oftentimes it’s quite literally as exciting as watching grass grow. But no matter how silly it sounds, FarmVille already has two million daily users. Launched this summer, Café is a throwback to the popular Diner Dash, in which players run a virtual restaurant and expand by satisfying their customers. Combining that concept with a sort of interactive Top Chef, Café pits users’ restaurants against one another and allows participants to interact—hiring friends to work in their kitchens and trading ingredients. According to Pincus, Zynga’s next frontier is charitable giving. In June, Zynga asked YoVille users to purchase $5 virtual dogs and cats from an in-game SPCA shelter. They made $40,000 in six weeks and donated the money to a real-world SPCA. “I love the idea that what players do on a fantasy level within our games can actually affect what happens in the real world. So if our players purchase virtual farmland and seeds for crops in FarmVille, we can send those proceeds to farmers in Guatemala,” says Pincus. Still, when it comes to tending to the needs of a ﬂock of peckish hens, most users would probably prefer to keep the action purely virtual.

increasingly big business. And Zynga, the creator of FarmVille (and more than a dozen other games designed to be played on the iPhone and social networks) is shaping up to be a Silicon Valley colossus.

The brains behind Zynga is a 43-yearold Harvard-educated entrepreneur named Mark Pincus, who launched the hit social networking site tribe.net in 2003. Whippet-thin, with a shaggy haircut, bushy eyebrows and permanent five o’clock shadow, Pincus holds an ever-present herbal tea in his hands as he paces the corridors of Zynga’s headquarters in San Francisco’s Potrero Hill district. This refashioned potatochip factory has the freewheeling aura of a dot-com company from the Digital Golden Age, complete with Segways, massages, foosball tables and free meals prepared daily by culinary academy–trainedZynga’schefs.games—which include Texas Hold’em Poker (the largest social gaming poker app on the planet), Pirates, YoVille and Scramble—are free to play, which explains their popularity. Mafia Wars is the most outwardly exciting of them all—players start out as Mafia stooges and advance by accruing weapons and whacking rivals. But no matter the game, after a user is hooked, he or she is then often persuaded to spend a dollar here and there on enhancements: a pistol, say, or a schooner. And those dollars add up.

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

“In the next eighteen months, social gaming will become a mainstream activity for the entire Western world.”

PLAYING CHICKEN Few things bring as much joy as raising hens—except perhaps virtual hens, which you don’t have to clean up after.

“Microtransactions in a virtual economy represent the third business plan of the internet,” Pincus says, sitting in his airy office. “Web 1.0 was all about e-commerce, banner ads and low margins. Web 2.0 was considered the Google Search Economy with cost-per-click, but it was only a great business plan for Google. Now we’re in what I like to call ‘Web 3,’ where users pay for virtual goods and services, and everyone wins. High margins for all.”

A contributor to Slate, The New York Times and Fast Company, DIANE MEHTA has lost 17 ﬁghts in Maﬁa Wars.

Pincus is even more bullish. “In the next eighteen months,” he says, “I want to see social gaming become a mainstream activity for the entire Western world.”

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CULTURE | SEPTEMBER 2009

GREAT LEAP FORWARD Bo Innovation; below, Leung’s Thousand-Year-Old Egg in Ginger Cone

Although Leung has adopted the techniques of molecular gastronomy, the marriage of cutting-edge science and old-fashioned cooking that has been shaking up haute cuisine in the U.S. and Europe for the past decade, don’t pigeonhole him as a “molecular” chef.

Leung prefers to describe his food as “X-treme Chinese.” With their aperitif, his diners often receive miniature bites of Chinesesausage ice cream frozen in liquid nitrogen and

While some of us are still learning to use chopsticks and pronounce “General Tso,” Alvin Leung Jr. is giving Chinese cuisine a high-tech upgrade. JAY CHESHES

// BY

HONG KONG’S MOST buzz-worthy chef doesn’t spend much time in the kitchen. You’re more likely to ﬁnd Alvin Leung Jr. at his “unofficial office”—a private cigar club in the city center—perusing contracts, ﬁelding phone calls and squeezing in the occasional meeting, in between taking his friends’ hard-earned cash. “Business is down,” he jokes when I catch up with him there one afternoon, huddled around a frenzied card game. “I’ve got to make the rent.”

The ﬁrst Chinese chef to fully embrace the avant-garde cooking techniques pioneered in Europe in the 1990s at places like Fat Duck in Britain and elBulli in Spain, Leung is an unlikely evangelist for 21st century Chinese cuisine. A crass, cigar-chomping bad boy with a Dee Dee Ramone haircut, a dangling jade earring and the words “demon chef” emblazoned on his bicep in Chinese, the 48-year-old Leung—who has no actual culinary training—only found his true calling recently, after abandoning a career as a sound engineer. Four years ago he opened Bo Innovation, the ﬁrst

“I don’t like to be labeled,” he complains. “I do touch on molecular stuff, and it’s fun, but you also have to introduce comfort.”

Wok on the Wild Side INNOVATIONBOOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

food&drink restaurant in China to deconstruct the world’s most popular cuisine.

BUBBLICIOUS How to “spheriﬁmakeed” xiao long bao dumplings)(soup

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1 32

Leung took to the challenge, quickly scrapping the Japanese concept in favor of the sort of food he’d been serving to his houseguests. Within a year, Bo Innovation was born. The restaurant (now in its second incarnation, having relocated last year to spiffier digs) is easy to spot. Just look for the giant mural of Leung’s sneering mug out front. Although the kitchen 48 food & drink

“Her food was really awful, like instant noodles everyAfterday.”attending college in Canada, he moved back to Hong Kong to become a sound engineer (he still owns factories on the mainland that produce noise-prooﬁng equipment). In his spare time, he indulged his passion for cooking, hosting extravagant dinner parties in his tricked-out home kitchen. These get-togethers quickly became legendary among Hong Kong’s smart set, and Leung began visiting the world’s ﬁnest restaurants.

MIX Mix xiao long bao broth with thickeners (Xantana and Gluco) HEAT Remove spheres and heat in oil

served with crisped rice, a play on local specialty lap mei fun, a homespun winter favorite. And the chef’s sci-ﬁ version of a Shanghai soup dumpling uses spheriﬁcation (a technique developed by culinary madman Ferran Adria) to form a chemically induced yolklike skin around bubbling pork broth—a dumpling without any dough.

NOODLING AROUND Uni dan dan noodles with salmon roe; Leung in the kitchen; and the staff at work

“Alvin really only found success in his 40s,” says his partner in the restaurant, young ﬁnancier Vincent Kwok, who recently began scouting locations for a third Bo Innovation (a second is in the works in the south of France). “I want Alvin to focus on establishing himself globally,” he says. “Then the branded products will come, and the cookbook and maybe the restaurant in New York.” When I manage to pry the chef away from his card game, he agrees to lead me on a tour of the local food market. A tangle of stalls a few blocks from his restaurant, Wanchai Market features Hong Kong’s most pristine produce along with seafood so fresh much of it is still Leungwriggling.pauses periodically, cradling a bundle of mushrooms, running his ﬁngers through a trough of dried Szechuan pepper, eyeing a hanging loin of glistening pork, but declines to wax poetic about the bounty. “All this nonsense about sourcing, it’s all hype,” he says. Unlike so many of his contemporaries, he’s not a fetishist for locally grown ingredients. “Just because you know where something came from and you say it’s organic, is it really the best?” he asks. “I don’t think so.” His food comes from trusted suppliers—his foie gras is French, his caviar Chinese— and that’s all that matters.

“I’ve been everywhere,” he says. “If you haven’t, how the heck can you create? I’m not like a Mozart.”

SPOON Spoon mixture into a solution of algin and water

The leap from home hobbyist to culinary revolutionary began six years ago, on a whim. Leung had taken a stake in a friend’s underground restaurant, Bo InnoSeki, one of the unlicensed speakeasies that were all the rage in the city at the time. The restaurant, named for a co-owner, was in dire straits. “It was just after SARS,” Leung says. “Nobody was eating out.” One day the chef, who served kaiseki-style Japanese food, walked off the job.

Last year, in Michelin’s ﬁrst ever guide to the region, such dishes earned him two coveted stars.

Leung was born in London to Hong Kong natives who ﬂed the colony during the pro-Communist riots of the 1960s. While many chefs cite their mother’s home cooking as an inspiration, for Leung it was a different story. “I always say if my mother could cook I wouldn’t have needed to learn how to,” he says.

“People started saying, ‘Wait a minute, why doesn’t Alvin cook?’” recalls Kwok. “It was mostly in jest. But then he started showing up. When I went to dine there, I was impressed.”

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

SEPTEMBER CROSSWORD ANSWERS

JAY CHESHES has written for Saveur and Gourmet. A pleasant surprise is in store for him, according to his latest fortune cookie.

Harding Road,

“This is my Chinese breakfast,” he explains as a miniature white bowl arrives ﬁlled with a delicious savory custard. “You have caviar, chicken congee, abalone. You’ll want to suck up all the caviar ﬁrst.” Pause for dramatic effect. “You won’t get seconds.”

49 staff does a ﬁne job running the place when the chef’s not around, he makes an appearance most evenings, assuming the role of disaffected showman (his charisma will come in handy if the TV show he’s negotiating comes through). Even as he assists his crew, putting ﬁnal touches on dishes as they emerge from the kitchen, a gnawed-on cigar is rarely far from his lips. On a recent evening, he offers color commentary as his 14-course tasting menu is served to VIP diners seated at the “chef’s table” (actually stools at a bar peering into the kitchen).

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The NFL has dominated American professional sports for so long, it’s almost impossible to imagine a world in which it struggles for attention. But we can try...

BY JASON GAY BY BARRY BLITT

// ILLUSTRATION

50 SEPTEMBERsports2009| UNITED.COM

AS SUMMER TURNS TO FALL and America goes berserk for the Major League Lacrosse playoffs, the Vuelta a España bike race and the return of the Chinese Badminton Association—better known, of course, as the CBA—we’d like to suggest sharing a little love with another sports league, one that desperately needs your support. The ThatNFL.acronym stands for National Football League. The group has been around since 1920, when it launched as the American Professional Football Conference, before changing its name two years later. And you know what football is, right? No, it’s not soccer— that’s a common mistake in America, where every family huddles around the television watching soccer every night. Football is the game with the helmets and oblong brown ball and the guy who calls himself Ocho Cinco. Yeah, you remember it. It’s on Sunday afternoons. That’s right, the sport that comes not long after Face the Nation with BobFootballSchieffer.needs your help. It doesn’t have the glamour of badminton or the household names of lacrosse, like legendary attackman John Grant Jr., who won two consecutive MLL MVPs with the Rochester Rattlers. People don’t grow up following football teams the way they do European cycling squads, with children marching off to school wearing spandex outfits advertising their chosen teams, be they Rabobank, Silence-Lotto or our personal favorite, Liquigas. Football is fighting for attention. It’s so unpopular, in fact, teams play only 16 regular season games a year. Basketball plays 82 and baseball a brisk 162. Fan interest is static. Take the case of the New England Patriots—they’re one of the best teams, with the quarterback who’s married to Gisele. Last year the Patriots drew 550,048 fans, filling 100 percent of the seats in their 68,756 seat stadium. But the previous year, they drew the exact same number. That, my friends, is known as zero growth. There are other dispiriting signs. Each year, more and more football followers are so dissatisfied with the real product the NFL puts out, they’re forced to create their own “fantasy” teams. Meanwhile, the NFL also runs an embarrassing sideshow each year called the “draft,” in which clean-cut college stars are selected by teams and forced against their will to travel to Fantasy Football

Of the nearly 40,000 pro football players between 1920 (the NFL’s ﬁrst year) and 1984, there were never more than eight in any season who weighed over 300 pounds In the 2006 season there were 570. HEAVY DUTY

3. RENAME EVERYONE. Ocho Cinco is on to something. He used to be named Chad Johnson. Boring! You’ve already forgotten Chad Johnson. But Ocho Cinco works beautifully. Let’s rename other stars. Tom Brady? Greg Brady. LaDainian Tomlinson? LaDainian Gaga. Romo? Tony Obama. Just try to forget the Cowboys quarterback has the same last name as the president of the United States.

The NFL is a growing league 8 1920 1984 20081985 570

JASON GAY played exactly 10 seconds of high school football. His coach slapped him on his helmet, and he decided to run cross-country.

5. UPGRADE TO THE EVEN-MORE-SUPER BOWL. This is nonnegotiable. We’ve got to make the Super Bowl better. Yes, we’ve had some classic ones lately— Pittsburgh’s thriller over Arizona, and the New York Giants’ shocker against the Patriots. But why not spice it up with another sporting event? Yes: a soccer game, played simultaneously on an adjacent ﬁeld. Think of the television ratings and water-cooler arguments. We know that old viewing habits are hard to break, especially if your family is used to sitting down on the couch after Thanksgiving dinner and watching several hours of badminton. But we’ve got a soft spot for football, and we believe you, too, will enjoy this niche sport. Better yet, if you promise to watch, Favre promises to play next year. With Bruce, onstage, at the halftime show.

The games are Sunday and Monday nights, and if you’re interested in getting a divorce, you can watch all the contests on satellite TV.

CULTURE | SEPTEMBER 2009 51

1. LOSE THE AGGRESSIVE ATTITUDE. If you’ve spent any time following sports in this country, you know if American audiences can’t stand anything, it’s violence. Bench-clearing brawls, pro wrestling, episodes of The Hills…we can’t stand it. The NFL should cease its celebration of hard-knock contact by encouraging something more humane. Firm handshakes? All-caps text messages? Extreme pouting?

IMAGESASSOCIATES/GETTYBERSTEINBYPHOTOGRAPH sports distant cities to play the game they love. This draft is attended by thousands of angry fans, who drink beer and loudly boo the players who get picked. Usually, they are dressed in green and white, signifying an allegiance with a team called the New York Jets. But what’s most troubling is the behavior of the league’s biggest stars. Last year, Plaxico Burress, one of football’s most gifted wide receivers, was caught wearing sweatpants to a nightclub. We’re not sure how you were raised, but we’ve never worn sweatpants to a nightclub. White polyester, silk shirts and gold chains, perhaps, but never sweatpants. Oh, and as if it couldn’t get any worse, there was something about Burress shooting himself in the leg with his own handgun. But that’s what you get for wearing sweatpants, dude. Then let’s take the case of Brett Favre. He’s one of the all-time great NFL heroes—he’s won a Super Bowl, which is football’s equivalent of the Major League Lacrosse championship. But he doesn’t even know if he likes football anymore. Every summer, Favre vacillates about returning to the game like a guy debating a pelvic wax. Does he really detest football so? Or how about the Dallas Cowboys? They’re one of the more recognizable teams in the NFL, even if they have to share a city with the Dallas Stars of the National Hockey League. They generate a fair amount of attention, some of it for their players’ private lives. Their quarterback, Tony Romo, dated the exwife of Nick Lachey, the co-owner of the Tacoma Rainiers minor league baseball franchise. Poor girl. Talk about a step down in the sports world. But the news isn’t all bad. Football can be a highly entertaining sport, except when it’s played in Detroit. There are games on Sunday nights and Monday nights, and if you’re interested in getting divorced, you can watch all the contests on satellite TV. The NFL also has cheerleaders, who have all the same responsibilities as the New York Knicks City Dancers—except coaching a basketball team. Still, we’ve got a few suggestions to improve the NFL and raise its proﬁle to another level.

2. PUT ANALYSTS ON THE FIELD. Look, the truth is that a lot of the NFL TV personalities are better known than the athletes themselves. So why not incorporate them into the action? Put Chris Berman at midﬁeld on a barstool. Chris Collinsworth, dressed in a suit, running pass routes. John Madden just retired, but see if he’d like to lie down in the end zone, as an obstacle.

4. OFFER WEEKLY HALFTIME SHOWS. If there’s one NFL event that everyone cares about, it’s clearly the halftime show at the Super Bowl. Bruce Springsteen, Tom Petty, Prince—what’s not to like? All-time legends playing selections of the greatest hits. So why not expand it? We’re sure that Bruce would love playing halftime at a Bengals-Rams game in October.

Respondents were also polled on their awareness of obstructive sleep apnea (OSA), a condition in which people repeatedly stop breathing during sleep: 66% of all respondents had heard of OSA.

“People lose sleep either because they cannot sleep or because they are not setting aside enough time for sleepboth of which can happen because of work-related stress in the current economic environment,” said Dr David White, chief medical officer for Philips Home Healthcare “PeopleSolutions.simply need to take sleep much more seriously. Sleep is not optional – it is absolutely critical to people’s health,” said Dr White.

Price per person per night, based on double occupancy standard room. Taxes & gratuities included. Offer valid for stays from October 30 to December 23, 2009. Consult terms & conditions. Subject to availability. Airfare not included. RIU is not responsible for errors or omissions published in the contents of this publication. GRAND OPENING OCTOBER 30, 2009 Riu Guanacaste Hotel Come and enjoy the splendor of Costa Rica, graced with natural exuberance, beautiful beaches and a surprising variety of activities. We guarantee your stay will be a unique experience, so take advantage of this special opportunity. Treat yourself to this hotel’s ﬁne specialty restaurants, bars, sports facilities, a world-class Renova Spa and many more amenities and services, all accompanied by our ﬁrst-class service and 24 hours All Inclusive program. 24 HOURS ALL INCLUSIVE Per Person Per Night Advertising feature *

The survey was undertaken by TNS during March 2009, polling 2,500 managers in the UK, Germany, USA, Japan and The Netherlands. As a health and well-being company – and leader in the sleep management market - Philips commissioned the survey to get an indication of peoples’ sleep habits and their awareness of the impact of sleep on health and quality of life. Philips offers sleep therapy products that are designed to encourage patients’ acceptance of OSA therapy through increased comfort. The end result is improved sleep and, ultimately, improved quality of life. Find out more at www.Philips.com/because.

Americans are more likely than other nationalities to lose sleep because of stress at work, a survey by Philips has Nearlyfound.athird of American managers blamed stressful work for their lack of sleep, followed by 27% of Germans, 24% of Britons, 20% of Japanese, and just 12% of Dutch Themanagers.global survey found that 72% of them were not getting the recommended eight hours a night. The worsening global economy was cited as the major reason for poor sleep by 40% of respondents.

In 2007, the model and presidential niece launched the FEED 1 Bag—a simple cotton and burlap sack—to raise money for the United Nations World Food Programme. (Each bag sold feeds one student for an entire school year.) This month, she’s launching three new products.

AND IN HER SPARE TIME? • She works on her clothing line, Lauren Pierce, and hangs out with B.F.F. Elizabeth Berkley of Saved by the Bell fame.

hero

“Not everyone can cut a huge check to make a donation, but most of us can buy a bag here and there.”

theRockTote

INTERNATIONALMONTEZINOS/ICONJOSEPHBYPHOTOGRAPH

This fashionista has charitable giving in the bag.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK NAME • LAUREN BUSH, 25 MISSION • Ending world hunger.

The FEED 2 Kenya Bag—a more stylish model of the original, available at Bergdorf Goodman and feedprojects.org—feeds two children in Kenya for a school year. The FEED Health/ MV Backpack (sold at Kenneth Cole) is made of recycled plastic nylon. For every backpack sold, another loaded with supplies goes to a Millennium Village community health worker in Uganda. Next up: the FEED/ READ 3 Bag, at Barnes and Noble. “It’s in time for backto-school,” Bush says. “We’re supporting the U.N. World Food Programme and Room to Read. For each bag you buy, three children get lunch and a local language textbook.”

MOTIVATION • Serving as a U.N. World Food Programme ambassador while a student at Princeton, Bush went on a trip to Guatemala. “I live in New York, so it was only a few hours away, but there was so much malnutrition,” she says. “What I was really moved by was seeing these kids helped by the World Food Programme.” And why the bag? “It’s a real, measurable, tangible contribution,” she says, adding, “Not everyone can cut a huge check, but most of us can buy a bag here and there.”

CULTURE | SEPTEMBER 2009 53

A NON-SURGICAL TECHNIQUE TO FIGHT AGAINST ARTHRITIS AND SPORTS INJURIES

THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE MEDICINE

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Of course it’s unsettling to feel out of sync with the world around you, but instead of complaining about jet lag, maybe it’s time to wake up and smell the coffee.

BY ADAM SACHS

I WAS IN TOKYO

A couple of weeks ago. After clearing customs in Narita, I did what I normally do when I get to Tokyo. I did something really stupid. It’s become a little ritual of mine, though I mix it up to keep myself guessing. Sometimes I leave my wallet on an airport chair. Or I buy a ticket for the wrong train, heading away from the city. This time, I got my exchange rate mixed up and tried to extract $15,000 from several wisely unwilling ATMs. Luckily I never got the cash, or I’d probably have found a way to leave a fat wad of yen on a chair somewhere.

CULTURE | SEPTEMBER 2009

Later, at dinner, as I was nodding off into a tumbler of Yamazaki whiskey, my friends said what people usually say to me in Tokyo and elsewhere in the world: “You haven’t adjusted yet. Your body is still on New York time. For you it’sWhenyesterday.”youtravel a lot, you get used to people always reminding you what time it is for you. As if everyone can peer inside your brain and read a little personal clock there that shows all the data about why exactly you’re feeling sluggish, the time of your last meal and which side of the bed you woke up on. And the diagnosis is always the same. Driving the rental car the wrong way out of the airport? Jet lag! Wandering the streets hungry at 4 a.m.? Jet lag! See, it’s okay. The world understands why you’re lost, cranky, distracted or dyspeptic (or, as happens more often than we’d like to admit, all of the above). Your clock just needs resetting. And I know the world is basically right. My readings are haywire, my compass is off, night is day. I’m either alert at the wrong time, or not at all. Scientists even have a nifty name for this condition, desynchronosis, which makes it sound like a medical disorder of some kind even if it’s simply a natural response to being suddenly plopped down far from home. We are all governed by circadian rhythm, or a 24-hour cycle that tells us it’s breakfast time in our home continent even though the sun is setting before us now. But I’m not quite ready to attribute the condition entirely to something as banal as my scrambled sense of time. After all, anybody who’s seen me dance at a wedding knows my rhythm isn’t great under the best of

In Praise

of Jet Lag

// ILLUSTRATION BY CLARE MALLISON 55diary

TIME BANDITS Can jet lag be “cured”? Probably not, but it seems as though everyone has a trick to mitigate its effects.

Some imaginative ﬂiers claim that simply pretending they’re not on a plane lessens the problem.

WHETTINGWHISTLEYOUR GETTING IN TOUCH WITH NATURE TRUE WEST MAKE BELIEVESUNSHINE ON SHOULDERSYOURMELATONIN

Jet lag is part of the fun. We should savor it the way a dog sticks his head out a car window and feels the wind in his face.

Not only can it make you happy, sunshine can clock.“reset”theoreticallyyourbody’sIt’saseasyasgoingoutside.

And why do we insist on blaming the flying itself? Sit me upright in an easy chair for 13 hours, replay the Bourne trilogy three times, ply me with gin-andtonics and let me doze off with my chin tucked into my clavicle…. I’m pretty sure I’d wake up feeling weird without ever leaving my living room. The main thing, though, is this: Tokyo is really far away from New York. other-side-of-the-worldof-milesThousands-and-thousands-faraway.Around-the-bend,faraway.And when I get there—when I finally arrive and somehow restlessly fumble my way out of Narita and into that big, overwhelming city—I experience the rush of displacement all over again. Tokyo is thrillingly, exhaustingly, wonderfully foreign to my everyday life. Sure, part of the reason I’m at Tsukiji market at 5 a.m. on my second day there, watching men cut up giant tuna and looking forward to my beer and sushi breakfast, is because my body just won’t let me sleep. But it’s just as true to say I’m awake because I’m so excited to be here. Giant tuna! Homicidal motorized carts speeding everywhere! Beer with breakfast! I say, enough with the whining: It’s time to give jet lag a second look. Yes, it’s sometimes inconvenient to feel grouchy or lost or incoherent, but that lost feeling is a significant part of travel, a reminder that distance is real, that miles aren’t just something we tally up in our frequent-flier accounts. Sitting at home at the computer, soaking up the news from a TV, it’s easy to believe that the world is small. But it doesn’t feel small when you’re out in it. This, it seems to me, is one of the profound gifts of being alive now: the ability to get up and go everywhere, to experience the world in a kind of rush that previous generations couldn’t have dreamed of. We should savor that rush, take it in the way a dog sticks his head out a car window and feels the wind in his face. A sense of dislocation comes with the territory. Indeed, it’s part of the fun. I’d go so far as to say that an essential component of my love for Tokyo is the simple fact that I always feel so gloriously messed up and out of my element when I’m there. The world is big, and frankly, it should wear us out to try taking it all in. We should be righteously freaked out by all the traveling we do. We should be dizzy with awe that these big planes deliver us to faraway places, and at the wonders that we find there. And while I’m all for making it to meetings on time and not drooling in public, maybe we shouldn’t try so hard to fix the unfixable nature of living in an exhausting time. diary

circumstances.

Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water and avoiding caffeine alcohol—which,and to some of us, sort of defeats the purpose of vacation. Some New Age types insist that walking barefoot on the earth or swimming in the ocean can help by “grounding electromagneticyoursystem.” It’s claimed that jet lag is less severe on fromfrequent-ﬂimaginetrips.westward-bound(AndjustalltheiermilesyoucangetﬂyingChicagotoNewYorkviaTokyo.)

And where are these experts when I feel exhausted at home? How to explain my general habit of working in the middle of the night, eating at the wrong hours and dreaming all day about naps? With 24/7 media overstimulation coming at me from every corner of the planet, do I really need a jet to throw me off my sleep schedule? Trust me, you can forget what day it is even without a passport.

Taking small doses of this youhormonesleep-inducingnaturalmayhelpfallasleepatthepropertime(or,dependingonwhatcountryyou’veﬂownto,itmaygetyouarrested).

CLAYMANELLIEBYICONS

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

Travel writer ADAM SACHS has no idea where he is half the time, but he can usually ﬁnd out by checking adamsachs.org.

Everyone’s got a cure, of course, a pill, a routine, a bit of trusted quackery that promises to take the edge off, knock you out inflight, get you on your feet when you land, uncramp your muscles, march you through customs, order room service and tuck you in at night (see Time Bandits). Admittedly, I long considered Ambien a trusted friend, until the time I woke up from my slumber on a long flight and, in a zombie state, punched up You’ve Got Mail with unidentifiable subtitles on my personal inflight entertainment system. What kind of friend lets you do that? Recently I got a press notice about a British juice drink called Mile High. It modestly claims to eliminate “any negative side effects of frequent flying and long haul travel such as fatigue and nausea” through the power of antioxidants. Not having joined the Mile High drink club, I can’t say for sure, but my guess is what causes fatigue isn’t oxidants but lack of sleep. A scientific journal from the International Society for Computational Biology reported recently on tests to fight jet lag by exposing test patients to “interventional light stimuli.” By the time I got to the end of the article, my eyes were strained and my head was throbbing—not unlike my response to a typical transatlantic red-eye. I wouldn't be surprised if scientists do someday manage to alter the body’s rhythm with light—I’ve heard the same technique works wonders on egg-laying chickens, to say nothing of marijuana plants—but flashing lights on and off during sales meetings might not be quite what it takes to close a deal. So, no thanks.

Bestworldwide.coverage

A 2007 Argentine study showed that small doses of the impotence medication helped Thesimulatedrecoverhamstersfromjetlag.effectontheirsexliveswasnotreported.

While science chases a cure, I’ll stick to wandering around gaga before passing out cold and sleeping dreamlessly through the Returningnight.from Japan last month, I was in New York for a couple of days before flying down to Louisville, Kentucky, then over to London and around the north of England, back to New York and on to Denver. To see these cities in these quick flashes in less than a month made me light-headed. I was struck by a kind of geographical dizziness. Staring out the window of a shuttle bus from the Denver airport heading to Boulder, I had strange, dreamy notions. Hey, I didn’t know they had Chuck E. Cheese’s in Yorkshire…I wonder if the big mouse talks with an accent? Clearly all these time zones had left me more than a little unhinged. But I liked the confusion. It felt like a modern ailment. A little sleepiness, a touch of bewilderment, I realized, even as I nodded off, is nothing more or less than a normal, rational, authentic response to the still-astonishing fact of being flown around the world. To chalk this all up to something as mechanical as the resetting of an invisible clock seemed absurdly reductive, but more than that, it seemed to miss the point of travel altogether. We don’t need a cure for jet lag, I thought, my eyes flickering shut as the bus rumbled onto the Northwest Parkway. We need a nap.

VIAGRA LIGHT VISOR

Best coverage claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. ©2009 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners. Coverage not available in all areas. att.com/global

More phones that work in more than 215 countries, like Morocco.

Defy darkness and make Trekkies jealous by donning a faceprogrammablegeeky,lightvisorthatshinesbrightlightonyourinsyncwiththedaylightpatternofyourdestination.—PETERKOCH

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TRANSLATION OF “ZAPATOS,” FIRST PUBLISHED IN WORDS WITHOUT BORDERS, AUGUST 2009. TRANSLATION © TOBIAS HECHT. FOR MORE INTERNATIONAL FICTION, SEE WORDSWITHOUTBORDERS.ORG.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009 59ﬁ ction

THE CLAMOR OF CHILDREN GREW MORE FAINT.

BY LUÍS RAFAEL HERNÁNDEZ

The father is speechless, dazed by the shiny glass, the colorful ribbons, the lights—unlikely wonders on display. “Those shoes aren’t for sale,” he says ﬁnally. “It’s a museum.”

The boy smiles and squeezes his father’s hand. They cross the street and walk in silence. The father grabs his son’s hand again. “Let’s cross, this is the dumbos’ side.” “Why is it the dumbos’ side?” “Because it’s where the sun hits. People who walk on the sunny side are dumbos.”

“And the ones who go by car, Papa?” “They’re like us, only they don’t need to walk.” “But they’re on the sunny side.” After a while the boy stops again and points at his left shoe. “Look, there’s a hole in it.” His father examines the worn-out sole. “Why did they wear out so fast? I bet you weren't taking care of them. You kids at school, with all your running around.”

“Papa, they have shoes. Will you buy all of them for me?”

“Oh,” his son whispers, "a museum.” He glances back at the window overﬂowing with new shoes, so many he couldn’t even count them. “What a beautiful museum, Papa.”

The boy laughs and repeats “the dumbos’ side…the dumbos,” as if he’d memorized a new lesson. Cars drive right past them, and his eyes follow the speeding colors.

“Maybe, but we have to get going.” The father walks faster, not noticing how hard the boy works to keep up. They turn right. “What a great truck,” the father says, pointing toward the street. But his son has his eyes ﬁxed on a store window.

“Mama has too.” “You have to learn to take care of things.” “If we had a car I bet my shoes wouldn’t fall apart. How come you don’t buy me a new pair?”

TRANSLATED FROM THE SPANISH BY TOBIAS HECHT Shoes FROM THE BOOK ECLIPSE , AN UMBRAGE EDITIONS PUBLICATION. PHOTOGRAPH BY ZALAMÏ.

The son stops and looks at his father gratefully, even admiringly. “Before Mama sees, so she won’t notice what happened.”

“How come? Because there aren’t any…there aren’t any shoes anywhere.” Worried, the boy lowers his gaze. “It’s no big deal,” the father says, patting him on the head. “I’ll take them to the shoemaker and they’ll look like new again.”

“But I take them off at school when I play.” “I’ve seen how you twist your foot around when you sit down. That’ll break ’em, I’ve told you a thousand times.”

“It’s good you came to get me early. Mom always takes forever. Why don’t you pick me up every day?” “I had today off. But I’d like to come and get you every day.”

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61 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009 You don’t need to spend three perfect days in Budapest to discover that the Hungarian national spice is paprika, but you might as well. artifact 76P. 62 THE WATCHMAN The tale of a man and his time machines By Stephan Talty 70 THE EMPEROR HAS NEW CLOTHES Can stopanythingUniqlo? By Mark Healy 76 3PD: BUDAPEST Decoding Hungary’s ravishing capital By Sarah Horne PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

UNITED.COM09.2009THE WATCHMAN BY STEPHAN TALTY PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEEVE IUNCKER BY CREATING THE MOST COMPLEX, LIGHTEST AND—AT AROUND $400,000—MOST EXPENSIVE TIMEPIECES IN THE WORLD, RICHARD MILLE IS DRAGGING THE TIMELESS WORLD OF WATCHMAKING INTO THE FUTURE. 62

To begin with, he’s French. When he meets you for a tour of his factory, he looks like a Parisian viscount who’s been forcibly ejected from an F. Scott Fitzgerald novel. Dressed in a crisp white oxford shirt, jeans and handmade brown leather shoes, his appearance is a far cry from what one might expect from the CEO and chief designer of a luxury goods brand. But Mille’s real secret is that he approaches watchmaking as a certain type of Frenchman would. One like louche crooner Serge Gainsbourg. Or Napoleon. Whereas a brand like Patek Philippe produces heirloom pieces that look as though they could have been made a hundred years ago, Mille is looking to reinvent the game with watches that resemble nothing ever strapped on a wrist.

sculptor working in his atelier. f one has a headache, he simply goes home. Better that than scratch a base plate on a watch that costs half a million dollars.

“I wanted to create a cool space,” Mille says, nodding at a man polishing a titanium watch bezel. “I hate rushing. Sometimes, the assembly of a single piece can take an entire month, so the factory has to reflect that.” Mille is an admitted perfectionist. He rejects 35 to 40 percent of the finished products because they aren’t up to his standards. Or they just don’t look right, meaning the entire design has to be altered. Often when Mille’s marketing team is ready to announce the delivery of a much-anticipated watch, he will pull it back for a few modifications. He is at perpetual war with his salespeople.

His recent diver’s timepiece, the RM 025, is a brawny monster packing 30 jewels; its titanium parts have been “sapphire blasted” to create the perfect ﬁnish—the diver’s watch taken to its ridiculous, luxurious extreme.

“Sometimes we shout, we kiss, we celebrate after creating a great watch,” says the designer, gesturing toward the factory ﬂoor, where men dressed in blue dust-free suits work on his latest designs. “This you can only ﬁnd in an object of Mille’spassion.”factoryis sleek as a battleship, with huge windows framed by gray stone. It houses 50 technicians who produce about 2,000 watches a year. (Mille hopes to increase that to between 3,000 and 4,000 in a couple of years, but he has vowed never to become a mass-market house.) Every worker stands in his or her own small, sectioned-off space, where each stamps tiny balance wheels or fashions the struts that make a Mille piece tick. Each has as much freedom as a MAKING WATCHES IS, ON ITS SURFACE, SERIOUS BUSINESS. The best practitioners make solid timepieces that are worn by presidents and industrialists and Jay-Z, but share in none of their clients’ fame or glory. Their products don’t glow in the dark, aren’t typically encrusted with diamonds and are not the size of drink coasters. These watches always show the correct time because their makers are painstaking types who hold engineering degrees, collect vintage cuckoo clocks and look as if they run the unsexy parts of large banks. Not Richard Mille, however. At his factory at Les Breuleux, 90 miles northeast of Geneva, the master watchmaker is turning out new pieces with the brio of a deranged Renaissance sculptor. He’s created the most expensive line of timepieces in the world, along with the lightest watch, the RM 009,

PUNCHING THE CLOCK Mille’s Les Breuleux factory, where 50 workers build 2,000 timepieces a year

and the most complex, the RM 008, which has more than 500 moving parts. In July, he shipped his RM 020 pocket watch, a $440,000 throwback to another era. Collectors and global timepiece fetishists are clamoring to see it. Right now, Mille is to watches what Enzo Ferrari was to racecars—the man who revolutionized the form. And he’s a little bit mad about the whole thing. “They say to do this job you must have killed your father and mother,” Mille says without cracking a smile, as he strolls across the ﬂoor of his factory. What he means is that you have to be dedicated to the work to an unhealthy degree. “Watchmakers are like surgeons,” he says. “Sometimes they collapse; sometimes they cry.” Perhaps Mille is different from the average watchmaker because he’s an interloper in the world of haute horology.

The engineering of the watches is all done on computers, but when he dreams them up, Mille’s technique more closely resembles a cartoonist’s than a technician’s. “I always begin with a concept and then turn it into a mechanical thing,” he says. “I have little balloons where I draw the components in three dimensions. But the most important thing is not to lose the spirit of the original idea. I’m a bulldog when it comes to keeping the soul of the drawing in the ﬁnal piece.”

Mille grew up in the south of France, went to business school and ended up at the French accessories company Mauboussin, where he rose to become CEO of the jewelry division. But he always wanted to create something of his own.

“At some point, it’s boring to ask people’s advice,” he admits. “I love to do what I want to do.” Mille has been fascinated by timepieces since he was nine, when he took one apart to see how it worked (and was unable to reassemble it). But

09 . 2009 64 VUAGENCE SEPTEMBERUNITED.COM 2009

“My life is miserable,” he jokes, his eyes lighting up mischievously, “because they are always pushing me, pressuring me for Thatdeliveries.”kindofdrive is what people want in a super-high-end watch. “My customers are buying a piece of art, not just a timepiece,” Mille says. “If we don’t add that personality, they’ll get fed up.”

MILLE HAS SLICED 30 DIFFERENT STONES TO POWER ONE WATCH. 66

WATCH ME NOW Mille’s workers are given the freedom of artists. If they have a headache, they go home. SEPTEMBERUNITED.COM 2009 09 . 2009

it was the classic Cartier Tank that got him dreaming of designing them. “I was in my 20s when I ﬁrst noticed it,” he remembers. “I was so impressed with it. Very good volume, very wellbalanced—a perfect piece.”

TIME IS MONEY Clockwise from right, the RM 019, the gears that make the RM 008 tick the RM 020 pocket watch and the RM 025 diver’s watch

With his space-age materials and radical design, Mille has traveled a long way from that classic. He is known for choosing unusual materials, some of which belong on a Formula One car or an Abrams tank rather than a timepiece. He’s always searching for the next metal that will serve his complex visions. He’s sliced 30 different kinds of stone into razor-thin wheels to power one watch. For his gorgeous Tourbillon RM 012—which, with its visible braces and tubes, resembles the exterior of the John Hancock Center skyscraper in Chicago—Mille employed the aluminum alloy Anticorodal 100, normally used in ships and—no surprise—high-rise buildings. He incorporated electroplasma techniques typically used in the production of medical instruments for the RM 016, the sleek, gray model he’s wearing at the moment. “The way it catches the light, the softness to the touch, very sexy,” he says, looking at it lovingly. There’s only one material that’s defeated him: barium, which is used on space shuttles. Unfortunately, it proved too dangerous to bring into the factory. When the Frenchman isn’t sketching out new models, he’s at his English country home or traveling the world promoting the brand. He could afford to slow down. His sales this year are up 17 percent at a time when luxury ﬁrms are watching their proﬁts free-fall. But Mille is pushing ahead, sketching new models even as he jets to Las Vegas for the world’s biggest jewelry show.

The ideal customer? “John Malkovich,” Mille says instantly. “For me, he would be the ideal man.” Perhaps not the obvious choice, but the new RM 020 pocket watch would certainly ﬁt the quirky actor. It’s a typically exotic production, with a titanium chain and a baseplate made of carbon nanoﬁber (used in the U.S. Air Force’s combat jets) created at temperatures of 2,000 degrees Celsius. Close up, the heavy rectangular piece is unlike any watch you’ve ever seen. Its skeletonized construction enables you to see the movement at work and gives the watch a threedimensional presence. It doesn’t just give you the time, it lets you observe the time being made. And its red gold exterior, also available in white gold or titanium, gives it a touch of conspicuous excess.

“Everyone told me the pocket watch was dead,” Mille says. “I decided to revisit the idea. I ﬁnd it very unusual. We need to do something new, add an artistic dimension. At this kind of price, people must be buying pieces of art.”

STEPHAN TALTY ’s recent book, The Illustrious Dead, is about a typhus epidemic that struck the armies of Napoleon, who wore a Breguet watch.

BOARDING PASS Capitol Hill and the entire andwiththeformetropolitanWashingtonarea,thatmatter,meet“capitalofpeace”United’snonstopﬂightsbetweenWashingtonDullesGeneva.TravelersinUnitedFirstandUnitedBusinessenjoyawholenewworldofservice.SuiteDreams!

“My dream watch would have all the information projected directly into the eye,” he says, leaning forward enthusiastically. “Like the aircraft pilots have with some of their instrument panels. You close your eyes and you have all the Milleinformation.”closeshiseyes. He is dreaming. He is happy. His assistant quietly takes the pocket watch and sneaks away.

In the coming months, Mille will also be introducing an expanded women’s line and another big diver’s watch that is surprisingly light on the wrist (a Mille hallmark). But if you ask him about the timepiece he dreams about, his Holy Grail piece, he talks about a watch out of a science ﬁction movie.

“Why? Because it’s very interesting,” Mille says. “I love to mix the theater of life and the theater of business.” Even though his watches cost about the same as a nice townhouse, Mille insists he designs them to be worn. He hates the idea of collectors snapping them up and placing them in vaults to be viewed only on special occasions. The Formula One driver Felipe Massa, his official representative, wears his RM when screaming around tracks at over 200 miles per hour. “Formula One is a killer, and I like that. When they go around the turns, the G forces are very tough on the watch.” That is what Mille likes to imagine his customers doing with his timepieces, testing what he calls their “mechanical limits” by day and then wearing them out on the town at night.

The designer plays with a prototype, attaching it to a chain hooked to his jeans, and then holds it up to the light. One of his assistants watches him nervously, perhaps worried Mille will decide to change the ﬁnish at the last moment. But the designer only smiles and places the watch on his desk. After months of development and production, he’s happy with it.

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Once as unmistakably Japanese as nori rolls and Hello Kitty (Uniqlo has provided the uniforms for Japan’s Olympic teams in 2002 and 2004), the company’s expansion beyond Japan—throughout Asia, Australia, the U.K., the U.S. and, most recently, to France—is proof of its universal appeal. But after building its reputation on staples like fleece pullovers, sweaters and polos in a staggering variety of colors, Uniqlo appears ready to take some risks. After watching its competitors forge high-profile, fashion-forward alliances—the Gap hired Patrick Robinson (formerly of Perry Ellis) to update its lines; Swedish giant H&M established buzz-generating partnerships with brand-name types like Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Madonna; and this past spring TopShop released its ninth collection designed by Kate Moss—Uniqlo is following suit. This summer, Yanai announced what could amount to an industry game-changer: German design stalwart Jil Sander will become Uniqlo’s creative director. On the surface, it’s unquestionably a major coup: Sander’s low-key sophistication is as good a fit with the Uniqlo philosophy as her famous stovepipe trousers. Then again, the arrival of a top fashionista would seem to contradict the understated, proudly generic charm of a brand that still gives its denim styles names such as S-001 and S-002.

TEN YEARS AGO, Uniqlo opened its first Tokyo store in the trendy Harajuku district. By the end of 2009, it’ll have 900 spread across four continents. The lone American location, a 36,000-square-foot monolith in the heart of New York’s downtown flagship district (Apple, Prada, H&M, Old Navy and others all have high-profile stores nearby), opened three years ago. “Uniqlo makes sense in all areas of the world,” claims Liz Meltzer, senior vice president of global merchandising. “We make clothing that can be worn by everyone.” This fall, Uniqlo will put that boast to the test, opening a new flagship in Paris—its first full-fledged foray into the crowded, cutthroat fashion world of continental Europe. The invasion started with a modest Paris test store in 2007, but the real charm offensive began in May, at the Cannes film festival, where Uniqlo erected pop-up shops and sponsored a contest to design the festival’s official T-shirt. Then, in July, the company opened a series of temporary stores around the über-trendy Marais district, which displayed just enough of Uniqlo’s basics to get the message across. CEO Tadashi Yanai at his headquartersTokyo Mannequins at the store A sunny of high walls in New York City burst with a wide palette of

HE RICHEST businessman in Japan believes in you. He believes in your taste, your good sense, your personal style. He thinks you’re smart and sophisticated and discerning. He knows you value style over status, design over ostentation, and quality over fleeting fashion. He knows you’re too independent to chase trends, too smart and selfassured for slavish brand identification. More than anything, he’s confident that you know how to dress yourself. Since 1984, these beliefs have made Tadashi Yanai, the 59-year-old founder of Uniqlo, one of the world’s most successful retailers. And now, while other big apparel manufacturers are limping through a global recession, Yanai is positioning the low-key store he started 25 years ago in a Hiroshima shopping center to be the largest, most dominant clothing company in the world. He’s off to an impressive start. Built on the simple promise of well-made, smartly designed clothes at practically irresistible prices, Uniqlo’s parent company, Fast Retailing, posted an increase of 28 percent in profits over a nine-month period that ended in July, while Uniqlo’s April sales were up 19 percent over the previous month. Yanai was recently added to Forbes’ list of the world’s 10 wealthiest executives, with a reported worth of $6.1 billion. Shrewd business moves are part of the story, of course, but central to Uniqlo’s success is what has so far been a firm grasp of how the world wants to dress. Already the biggest retail clothing company in Asia, and with more than 750 stores in six countries around the world, Uniqlo (a contraction of “unique” and “clothes”) now finds itself with the money, the reach and the ambition to challenge the Gap and H&M for world dominance. The Gap opened in San Francisco in 1969 and essentially invented the formula that Uniqlo has adopted: stylish and affordable basics. Now, as the Gap has spent the past year limping along with double-digit sales declines, Yanai is publicly flirting with buying the competition outright, calling the notion “not such a crazy idea.”

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But what exactly is the message? Meltzer offers up a bit of corporate boilerplate—“It has always been the company’s goal to give the people what they want: exceptional clothing at affordable prices”—which differs not at all from the Gap’s. The thing that really distinguishes Uniqlo, and that it hopes will lure Parisians, just as it lured Londoners and New Yorkers before them, is its supersoft secret weapon: the jarringly inexpensive $90 signature cashmere sweater. Uniqlo’s cashmere calling card is cleanly and classically cut, comes in 20 colors (enough for a decent Crayola set) and is made of quality knits that rival sweaters retailing for double the price. This is the end result of Uniqlo’s remarkable economy of scale. When you sell more than a million cashmere sweaters a year and police the manufacturing from shepherd to clothes rack, as the company does, it’s not too hard to undercut rivals. And that’s part of what makes the company recession-proof. When Uniqlo opened its New York store, its reputation as “the Gap of Japan” (a comparison Uniqlo’s executives bristle at) was already percolating. But it was the sweater that made the typically jaded fashion press—from market editors at Elle to bloggers like The Budget Fashionista—take note. This is not “disposable” fashion, however. Yanai still examines many new designs before they reach the racks. When New York designer and boutique retailer Steven Alan went to Tokyo to ﬁt some limited-edition items he created for the company, he was shocked when Yanai himself stopped in to approve it. “We were in the room, and there’s probably about ten very high-level people there, and Yanai walked in,” Alan says. “It was as if a three-star general had just entered a room full of new recruits. Everyone backed up, like, ﬁve steps, and there was dead silence for a long time as he looked at everything. Then he smiled and shook my hand and said, ‘I like it.’”

If things go according to plan, in the next ﬁve years Uniqlo will have opened stores in dozens of major cities in Europe, North America and Asia. No wonder, then, that Yanai has become so outspoken about his goals. “I want to be No. 1 in the world...to be bigger than the Gap,” he said last year. “I think it is only part of our human nature that we want to be the best at something.”

9. When the New York City store ﬁrst opened, long lines eagergreetedshoppers.

In this anything-goes economy, when seemingly impregnable corporate titans collapse overnight, being the best is riskier than ever. But Uniqlo marches on: Today the cashmere sweater, tomorrow the world.

IN THE LARGE storefront windows of Uniqlo’s New York flagship, passersby see...practically nothing. There are no tableaux of the good life as lived in Uniqlo casualwear, no clever, carefully accessorized arrangements of colorful merchandise. But just inside the entrance stands a massive glass box with an enormous, handcrafted bamboo koi fish. The work of artist Stephen Talasnik, it is simple, precise, playful and undeniably Japanese. Lest we forget this is a clothing store, beneath the koi are rotating mannequins in summer specials: plaid sport shirts and polos over cargo shorts, accessorized with rubber boots and fishing nets. (The koi, it is promised, is crossing the pond for the Paris opening.) Beyond the sculpture, we see another side of the Japanese aesthetic—the glossy, frenzied pop of the Shibuya district— which immediately sets Uniqlo apart from the H&M down the street. Stacked 50 feet high on the walls is a vast array of kooky, colorful street fashions: graphic T-shirts depicting a myriad of manga characters, doodles by artists like Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring, and images by countless lesser-known designers. Somehow these coexist with the ultratraditional (Women’s Yakuta Set, $39!) and summer suits that could have stepped off a Merchant Ivory set. It’s part Brooks Brothers, part Hot Topic, but without the strenuous pretentions of either.

6. The acclaimed $90 customers’caughtsweatercashmereﬁrstAmericaneyes.

The company’s high-low embrace is calculated. To celebrate Pac-Man’s 30th anniversary, the SoHo store hosted a Pac-Man bonanza, with two machines on the mezzanine. But Uniqlo has figured out that the kid in the skinny jeans and day-glo shirt may be the same guy (on the same budget) trying on a wool navy suit. On a recent trip to buy a whipcord summer suit I’d heard about, I also picked up three pairs of dress trousers practically identical to ones I’d paid much more for elsewhere. The total? $209. And they hem the pants for free. Uniqlo’s attire has a sophisticated, slender fit—one that’s decidedly un-American. In fact, few things at the New York store would look good on an XXL frame, which raises the question of just how easily Uniqlo will win over shoppers beyond the skinny precincts of Manhattan. Yanai has made clear he intends to expand throughout the U.S. (and has even indicated a willingness to adjust the fit of some items), but to do so effectively, the company will likely stick to the trendier areas.

The director of editorial projects at GQ, MARK HEALY buys his pants—Uniqlo slim ﬁt ﬂat-front trousers—three at a time.

7. mezzanine.SoHostepsTranslucentleadtothestore’s

BOARDING PASS Join the throng of Big Apple tourists singing “I Love New York.” Okay, maybe there aren’t throngs of tourists bursting out in song, but you’ll love getting there on United’s transcontinental premium service ﬂights. Not going coast to coast? Don’t fret: United also serves New York/ Newark from Chicago, Denver and Washington, D.C.

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78 DAY ONE Crossing the Danube and having a bath 83 DAY TWO Dining alfresco and listening to cellos 84 DAY THREE Spice shopping at the MarketGreatHall CROSSING THE LION The Chain Bridge links Buda with Pest. For centuries a tumultuous crossroads of art, architecture, invasion and rebellion, the bohemian capital of Hungary has ﬁnally found serenity. But it’s still got a maverick soul. // BY SARAH HORNE 3 Perfect Days Budapest

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And yet, in spite of it all, Budapest is ﬂourishing again, its grand buildings refaced, its pitted streets once more lined with Belgian blocks, its edgy spirit thriving in unexpected corners. But don’t worry—the city’s rebirth hasn’t diminished its bohemian dreaminess. Hollywood couldn’t have concocted a more evocative, nostalgic scene. All you have to do is step into one of the city’s smoke-ﬁlled bars, where locals squabble good-naturedly until dawn. Or you can take in the buildings skirting the Danube (which splits the city in two: Buda and Pest), all moody in the hazy afternoon light. Budapest is moving forward, but its heady past is everywhere.

And rest assured—the shopkeepers are still delightfully surly.

FLICK THROUGH ANY HISTORY OF BUDAPEST and it’s abundantly clear that for every ﬂourishing of the arts and architecture, for every golden decade ﬁlled with pastries and sweet coffee and endless conversation, residents have had to endure less lovely periods. It’s no wonder Budapestians have a reputation for telling it like it is. Suffering invasions by the Turks, the Germans and the Communists, the city’s denizens developed a taste for both decadence and rebellion, tempered by a hefty dash of sunny resignation.

DAY ONE Channel the minor European aristocrat within as you wake up under starched sheets at The Gresham Palace (1), a 1906 Art Nouveau masterpiece ravaged during World War II and restored to its former glory in 2004 by Four Seasons. Descend to the lobby and linger for a while, transported back to the height of Budapest’s Golden Age, when The Gresham’s shopping arcade was ﬁlled with every fop and dandy worth knowing.

HOTELDESIGN19LANCHIDOFCOURTESYCASELLA/PHOTOLIBRARY,GRAZIAMARIAPHOTO,SIME/ESTOCKnook at the Lánchíd 19 Design Hotel DANUBE lobby of The Gresham Palace; the Szechenyi Baths; and, opposite, the Buda Castle District beyond the Chain Bridge

HIT THE DECK! A peaceful

Steel yourself for a day of walking with a carafe of strong coffee, fresh bread, cheeses and dried meats—vegans beware, you’re in Hungary now—at the Gresham Kávéház, where British bankers in pinstripes seal their investment deals with a handshake. Step through the whimsical peacock-adorned wrought-iron gates and out into the Crosscity.onfoot from Pest, the commercial 19th-century city, to Buda, its leafy, medieval counterpart, by way of the landmark Széchenyi Lánchíd (Chain Bridge) (2) and keep your eyes out for the façade of the Lánchíd 19 Design Hotel (3), a cutting-edge building designed by Hungarian architects and artists on the Buda side of the river. Its high-tech shutters move constantly in response to the shifting daylight, rippling like translucent ﬁsh scales. Ascend to Castle Hill

1 SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 78

SEASONS,FOUROFCOURTESYLEFT:TOPFROMCLOCKWISESPREAD);(PREVIOUSLEPRE/PHOTOLIBRARYLUCIANOBYPHOTOGRAPHS

The

TOWER AND THE GLORY The steeple of St. Stephen’s BasilicaontolooksPest.

GALLERY

VERONIKA HARCSA MUSICIAN // “Go to Citadella, the old fort on Gellert Hill, and have a look at Budapest from above. Whenever I travel to Paris, London, Rome or Helsinki, on my ﬁrst day I try to ﬁnd a high spot to have a look at the city from above. It gives you a certain point of view.”

HOLLWECK/PHOTOLIBRARYFERDINANDLARREA/PHOTOLIBRARY,JAVIER

POOL PLAYERS Immersed in the timeless thermal baths ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

After imbibing a postdinner sour cherry pálinka, waddle back to your hotel absurdly sated, and sleep like a baby.

Walk a few short blocks to Café Kör (7), a wood-paneled institution with clubby green library lights where the night’s Hungarian dinner specials are scrawled on a sheet of craft paper on the wall. Order wine from the Lake Balaton region, a hearty plate of chicken paprikas and rice, and sit back and wonder how you can possibly consume portions this large for the next 48 hours.

on the quirky funicular railway and set about exploring Várhegy, the tourism nerve center, before the crowds gather. After surveying the cobbled streets and taffy-hued cottages, wander over to the Fisherman's Bastion (4), a purposeless fantasia erected at the start of the 20th century to evoke medieval ramparts, and take in the stunning views of Pest and the Gothic Revival Parliament building across the river through the arches. Inevitably, a charmingly impoverished music student nearby is playing a mournful tune on his violin. Before you give up on the ever-so-slightly artificial-seeming Buda, take a taxi down the hill to Krisztina Tér and lunch at the landmark Café Déryné, a 1914 coffeehouse and patisserie once frequented by Budapest’s literati and now restored and refreshed as a funky French-Hungarian bistro. Watch local swells flit about in scarves and hornrimmed glasses as you dunk fresh-baked bread into finely spiced pumpkin soup. Next, hop onto the No. 18 tram. Alight from the kitschy buttercup-yellow vehicle in front of the Hotel Gellért (5), named for an 11th century Italian bishop who was martyred when he was rolled from the heights of Gellért Hill inside a barrel lined with nails. (Ouch!) Cheered by this news, enter the dramatic 1918 building and follow signs marked “swimming pool”—a vast understatement. Pass through the turnstile into the amazing tiled baths, don a bathing cap and do some laps with the local gentry before slipping into hot and cold underground pools. The ritual will leave you pleasantly befuddled and invigorated. Back on the Pest side of the river, don some stylish duds and take a stroll down the pedestrianized Zrínyi Utca, the imposing St. Stephen’s Basilica (6) looming before you.

ROGUES Fantastical Fisherman’s Bastion and its stern-faced protectors

PHOTOS,MADEI/BILDERBERG/AURORAOHIN/PHOTOLIBRARY,JEABYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:FROMCLOCKWISEN-LUCB

STEP INTO LIQUID The sublime Gellért Baths

TOKAJ WINE // Thought to have been discovered by accident when a 16th century Hungarian princess postponed the wine harvest (due to those pesky Turkish invaders), Tokaj wine is produced partly with grapes that have been afﬂicted with “the noble rot.” Fans of the stuff include Peter the Great, Louis XIV and Queen Victoria. Go on, indulge in a glass or three.

EGÉSZSÉGEDRE!

At the swank bistro Klassz, a serving of roasted duck leg with red cabbage DAY TWO Make your way back toward the Basilica and step in line for a pastry and a strong brew to go from the California Coffee Company (1), a local favorite near the steps of the church. Then make your way to Andrássy Út (Andrássy Avenue), an elegant boulevard built in the 1870s and seemingly invented for peacocking and pontificating. The avenue has recently undergone a renaissance, luring luxury brands like Gucci, Roberto Cavalli and Louis Vuitton, though it’s also retained its historic charm. Tucked between these designer behemoths are vintage spots such as the Müvész Kávéház (2), where tweedy types drain espressos under glinting chandeliers. After absorbing some of the beatnik grooviness, cross the street and peer into the lobby of the Hungarian State Opera House (3)—which is all but plastered in gold leaf—where Gustav Mahler once directed the opera. Then it’s on to lunch at Klassz (4), a swank wine bar and bistro. Peruse the bottles of local wine in the back and take a seat at one of the tables in the bar for a leisurely Hungarian lunch with a modern twist—don’t miss the lemon ginger risotto or the zucchini cream soup, poured ceremoniously at the table from a copper sauce pan. Descend into the underground and take the M1 train, the second-oldest subway line in the world, emerging at Hösöck Tere (Heroes Square) (5). Behind the square sits Városliget (City Park) (6), home to the neo-Baroque Széchenyi Baths and the peculiar hodgepodge of Vajdahunyad Castle (7), built for the 1896 millennial celebrations marking the arrival of the first Magyar tribes in Hungary. Ignore the agricultural museum inside and feel a sense of awe as you bask in the shadows of the castle’s Disneyfied extravagance. Find your way back to Liszt Ferenc Tér, a tree-shaded square decked with a contemporary statue of the composer Franz Liszt, who called Budapest his home for stretches in the 1870s and 1880s, and make your way past the Academy of Music (8), built in 1907 and also bearing Liszt’s image. Listen for the strains of students rehearsing cello and piano, and toast Budapest’s enduring love of classical music at Menza (9), a fashionably retro café and bar on the square, decorated in 1960s style in homage to the campy communist canteens of the era. Order a house beer and watch the nowcontented capitalists quaffing cocktails and ordering (with a touch of irony) Hungarian staples such as goulash and dumplings.

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ANDY HEFLER ACTOR // “I love Bambi, a kitschy coffee shop in Buda that’s a throwback to the Communist era. You’ll see little old ladies in orthopedic shoes and men playing dominoes, and the waitresses are notoriously mean. It’s just so great—and so typical.”

PÁLINKA // Downed with breakfast in the countryside, and 24/7 in Budapest, this fruit brandy comes in many varieties (all throatsearing) and has been described as “a necessity at village pig killings” by food writer Carolyn Banfalvi. Sour cherry is a good bet, but if you’re feeling a surge of patriotism, go for the “Barack,” which means apricot in Hungarian.

(HEMISPHERES)UNICUMFOREXCEPTDUNAI,DAVIDBYPHOTOGRAPHS

3PD BUDAPEST

ONE KLASSZ-Y JOINT

UNICUM // First prescribed by a Dr. Zwack to the AustroHungarian royals for the treatment of digestive troubles, this powerfully bitter national institution isn’t just a kitschy nostalgia act. Pop into just about any corner grocer and ask for a bottle of the black bitters. Take a swig and see if you still need that Rolaids.

Even if you can’t pronounce the national toast, you can still partake like a local.

SZANDRA SANDOR FASHION DESIGNER, NANUSHKA // “Budapest’s a great design city. I love to check out what’s going on in Hungarian fashion at Retrock Deluxe, a boutique (that also sells my clothes) on Henszlmann Imre Utca. For retro 20th century furniture there’s Möbelkunst, and for quirky objects or gifts, I also love Forma.”

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WATER WORLD Diving into Budapest’s inscrutable spas // It’s not easy to understand the rituals of the Hungarian spa, but never mind the obtuse entry procedures: It’s best to plunge right in. People have been “taking the waters” in Budapest since the days of Aquincum, when the Roman colonists took great pleasure in turning themselves into prunes in a steamy communal setting. At storied old baths like the Széchenyi in City Park, you'll be privy to an anthropological experience central to life in Budapest. Note the placards imploring you not to smoke or eat Sachertorte in the pools. From the sidelines, oiledup octogenarians watch the healthful proceedings approvingly, all the while eating fried chicken sandwiches and pufﬁng away on ciggies. You do a lap or two, watch some old guys playing nearly-naked chess, and lie back on your scratchy towel. Ah, relaxing

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Then it’s on to dinner at M (10), a delightfully kitschy hole in the wall. Ask for venison stew chased with a bottle of Villány red, which will inevitably be consumed amid a haze of cigarette smoke (don’t bother protesting). Before you know it you’re chatting with the artists at the next table, draining a shot of Unicum and following your new friends to Szimpla Kert (11), a bar in the old Jewish quarter. A discreet sign leads into what appears to be an abandoned building, and suddenly you’re in a beer garden crowded with young night owls. Before you know it, it’s well past three. The Budapestians show no signs of letting up, but you call a taxi and fall asleep before your head hits the soft goose-down pillow.

FINE TUNED A pianist at the Academy of Music, and the opulent Gerbeaud Coffeehouse

DAY THREE Now a devoted habitué of Budapest’s medicinal baths, you trudge to The Gresham’s top-ﬂoor spa and steep yourself in its hot tub, allowing last night’s toxins to evaporate in a cloud of steam. It’s all beginning to make sense. After a good 20 minutes, you emerge wrinkled like a prune, ready to face the day. Walk the Danube and watch the pleasure boats bound for Vienna. Stop in at Café Gerbeaud (1), a grand, 150-year-old coffee shop once favored by Sissi, the Queen of Hungary. Step inside to admire the historic interiors and scarf down a doughnut. Then it’s on to the Great Market Hall (2) for further lessons in Hungarian gastronomy. Watch as salesmen proffer bags of sweet or spicy paprika, fruit brandies, Pick salami and piles of fresh cherries to little old ladies carrying wicker baskets for their shopping. Feeling overwhelmed by the vast quantities of sausage on display—which really doesn’t travel well, let’s be honest— it’s on to the Hungarian National Museum (3) and somewhat more cerebral pursuits. Across the street, browse in one of a halfdozen bookstores, where you can get lost thumbing through antique maps of Hungary and vintage books in Magyar. Head for a highly intellectual lunch at Múzeum, and watch professors from the nearby university locked in serious conversation, seemingly oblivious to the powder-pink tablecloths.

THOSE 3 PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) The Gresham Palace Roosevelt tér 5-6; Tel: 36-1-268-6000 (2) Chain Bridge Between Roosevelt tér and Clark Ádám tér (3) Lánchíd 19 Design Hotel Lánchíd utca 19-21; Tel: 36-1-419-1900 (4) Fisherman’s Bastion Hunyadi Janos út (5) Hotel Gellért Szent Gellért tér 1; Tel: 36-1-889-5500 (6) St. Stephen’s Basilica V. Szent István tér 33 (7) Café Kör Sas utca 17; Tel: 36-1-311-0053 DAY TWO (1) California Coffee Company Teréz körút 38.; Tel: 36-30-465-2195 (2) Müvész Kávéhás Andrássy út 29; Tel: 36-1-352-1337 (3) Hungarian State Opera House Andrássy út 22; Tel: 36-1-332-8197 (4) Klassz Andrássy út 41 (5) Heroes Square Andrássy út at Dozsa György út (6) City Park Állatkerti körút (7) Vajdahunyad Castle Városliget (8) Academy of Music Liszt Ferenc ter 8; Tel: 36-1-341-4788 (9) Menza VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 2; Tel: 36-1-413-1482 (10) M VII. Kertész utca 48; Tel: 36-1-342-8991 (11) Szimpla Kert Kazinczy utca 14; Tel: 36-1-352 4198 DAY THREE (1) Café Gerbeaud Vörösmarty tér 7-8; Tel: 36-1-429-9000 (2) Great Market Hall Vamhaz körút 1-3; Tel: 36-1-366-3300 (3) Hungarian National Museum Múzeum korut 14-16; Tel: 36-1-338-2122 (4) Museum of Applied Arts Üllöi út 33-37; Tel: 36-1-456-5100 (5) Arcade Bistro Kiss Janos Alt. utca 38; Tel: 06-1-225-1969 (6) Gödör Klub Erzsébet térSTANKIEWICZSTEVEBYILLUTRATIONMAP 85 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 20093PD BUDAPEST GERMANYPOLANDCZECHREPUBLICSLOVAKIAROMANIABULGARIAGREECEMACEDONIAITALYSERBIAMONTEGROALBANIABOSNIAAUSTRIA Budapest• HUNGARY SLOVENIACROATIA körútJósefRákócziut Andrássút BudaiAlsorakpartPestiAlsorakpart Rottenbillerutca DózsaGyörgyut 2 3 1 4 567 1 2 3 4 9 8 11 5 7 6 1 2 3 4 5 6 10 0 3 miles

TOURISMHUNGARYCOURTESYPHOTOLIBRARY,

THIS LITTLE PIGGY WENT TO MARKET Above, a sampling of the local pork products sold at the Great Market Hall; and the exterior and interior of the Museum of Applied Arts, below

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 86

SARAH HORNE has never felt so ravishing as she did wearing a standard-issue Gellért Spa bathing cap.

In the late afternoon, it’s time to wander farther into the Józsefváros district until you finally stumble on the fantastical Museum of Applied Arts (4). An art nouveau Hungarian hybrid, the museum is inspired by Hungary’s Turkish and Asian roots (dating back to the days of Attila the Hun), with nearly every surface adorned with colorful Zsolnay tiles. Just when you’ve rebounded from the last multicourse meal, it’s on to the next. Take a taxi to Arcade Bistro (5), a chicly understated restaurant located on a quiet back street in Buda. Indulge in the sweet pea soup, rich, tender duck and a dessert of homemade ice cream and fresh raspberries.Hopataxi to Gödör Klub (6), an outdoor bar with an anything-can-happen vibe, housed amid the unfinished foundations of what was to be the National Theatre on Erzsébet Tér—a fine example of the Budapestian knack for turning disappointment into an excuse to party. Here, the capital’s young scenesters throng around café tables and talk about how Budapest has changed over the years. Without much effort you’re absorbed into a group of expats, who insist that the city is becoming a more cosmopolitan place. But everyone, even the traditionalists resistant to such changes, seem to agree: Budapest is still delightfully raw and decadent. In the small hours of the night you wander back to The Gresham, its sophistication standing in stark contrast to the hip gypsy band you’ve just heard at the Gödör. Intrigued by this enigmatic city, you throw back your heavy teal drapes and step out onto your balcony, awestruck by the nighttime view of Buda Castle and the Chain Bridge, the glittering, ominous currents of the Danube swirling below.

BLACK SOUP Coffeehouse culture done right // Hungarians are rightfully proud of their gorgeous kávéházes, where turn-of-the-century writers and intellectuals once energized endless debates with the local joe (dubbed “black soup”). Today, the tradition continues. Kávéházes still offer artist-friendly prices, suitably sudbued venues to write and think, and three meals a day. Fine brews can be found at glitzed-up grande dames like Café New York (at the New York Palace Boscolo Hotel); and the more wellworn, like Café Central, where you might actually spot a writer or two settling in for a day's scribbling, laptop at the ready. Then there's the funkily restored Dunapark, ﬁrst opened in 1937, where, as Metternich had it, “the coffee is as black as the souls of diplomats.” We think he meant it in a good way.

VANDAD KHASHEFI PHOTO STUDIO OWNER // “If I want some quiet I head to Margaret Island, right in the middle of the Danube. Parts of it feel quite wild, and there’s an old ruined church on the island that looks like something out of an eerie fairy tale—lovely, weird and out of place.”

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Structure, function and operation of ﬁnancial markets; security valuation methods; diversiﬁcation and portfolio management; and investment performance analysis.

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The MBA programs are accredited by The Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business International (AACSB), the premier accrediting organization for business schools worldwide.

Leadership and motivational concepts and skills, alternative leadership models, alternative reward systems and performance management.

www.spisales.com/SSU.aspxSalesPerformanceInternational4720PiedmontRowDrive,Suite400Charlotte,NC28210USAt:+1.704.227.6500 Don’t Get Left Behind 94 | HEMISPHERES PROMOTION Investing in People MANAGERProfessionalCertifiSELLERSolutionSellingedSolutionSellingSeller ProfessionalSolutionSellingManager SolutionSellingMasterSeller ManagerSolutionSellingMasterSolutionSellingCertifiedCertifiSolutionPROFESSIONALCERTIFIEDMASTERSelling®cation UNIV ERSITY

The Certiﬁcation Program Includes: tests, and resources via an industry leading Learning studies, and downloadable tools needed to complete the course live situations and informal, just-in-time learning assets and resources

There is a clear imperative in today’s global economy – move from selling commodity products to high value solutions, or get left behind.

The Solution Selling Certiﬁcation Program is designed to provide corporations with a model sales university which offers rigorous sales teams to deﬁne, track, and validate professional development paths for new hire or current employees or as a function of the recruiting process.

www.spisales.com/SSU.aspx to learn more and enroll as an individual or create a corporate sales university.

Large-scale studies conducted by leading companies who invested in Solution Selling have yielded compelling outcomes in key sales performance areas investment in Solution Selling education – Assurant Health

Certiﬁed Solution Sellers Outperform!

Don’t Get Left Behind!

Recession proof your business and your career.

Why Invest in Solution Selling® Certiﬁcation?

The BIG Team Regatta

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION | 95

An annual bicoastal corporate challenge to beneﬁt non-proﬁt youth and adaptive sailing programs in Washington, DC and The San Francisco Bay Area.

2009 Date & Locations: October 2nd - Annapolis, Maryland & Berkeley, California

For program information and registration please visit: www.gelcorp.com/united.php

Gel stands for Group Experiential Learning and helps organizations build cohesive teams via high impact sailing experiences and consulting services. Leading companies including GE, Microsoft, Gatorade/QTG, Booz Allen Hamilton, and Northrop Grumman have turned to Gel to forge new teams, implement acquisitions, strengthen bonds with clients, and extend their management training curriculums. With programs across the U.S. and select international locations, Gel has made sailing accessible to any team, regardless of age, physical dexterity, or even fear of the water. People with any level of physical ability can sail and absolutely no experience is necessary. Gel’s professional sailing instructors routinely coach non-sailors and non-swimmers--Gel’s most enthusiastic alumni. Why sailing? Unlike a ropes course, go-karting, or team-cooking, sailing requires constant, real-time collaboration between all team members. A boat’s performance immediately highlights communication or leadership issues. Participants see and feel how an unspoken question, a garbled exchange or lack of consensus can stop their boat dead in the water. Most of all, sailing is fun.

Investing in People

A Taste of BoatWorks

2009 Dates & Locations: September 23 - Annapolis, Maryland October 14 - San Francisco, California

Gel BoatWorksPrograms: is a high impact sailing experience that focuses on leadership development. BoatWorks gets your group gelling as they battle the wind and the currents while making tactical and strategic decisions themselves. The program culminates in a special challenge that requires collaboration across the ﬂeet. RaceWorks is perfect for enhancing relationships with key clients or rewarding an intact team with a friendly competition. Participants rotate through all positions, learning how to work together to sail fast and win. RaceWorks programs have been staffed with Olympic and America’s Cup sailors to add to their uniquely special nature.

A complimentary afternoon of experiential training for Senior HR & Line of Business Executives.

Custom Programs are Gel’s forte. Gel routinely works with internal and external consulting organizations to add experiential components to organizational development initiatives, strategy off-sites or executive retreats.

t:Groupwww.gelcorp.comExperientialLearning888.GEL-TEAM(888.435.8326) Primary Annapolis,Venues:Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Newport, San Francisco, San Diego, Tampa/St. Petersburg Upcoming Programs

2010 Dates & Locations: April 22 - San Franciso, California May 5 - Annapolis, Maryland May 19 - Chicago, Illinois

This graduate degree is designed for professionals who would like to improve their ability to lead—locally and globally. MBA A global MBA tailored to the unique needs of the adult learner. International MBA in Global Leadership

Bachelor of Science in Business Administration

This cutting edge degree enables you to lead change and manage large scale projects. Master of Science in Technology Management

This program not only looks at where technology is at today, but where it is going in the future.

Even in a recession there lies tremendous untapped opportunities. Recessions seem to have a unique way of making you look in the mirror and take stock of your life. It allows you to pause and ask, “What do I need to do to get ahead, have ﬁnancial security and stay marketable?”

Upcoming

Where do you see yourself in one, two, or ﬁve years from now?

A general business degree perfect for anyone looking to gain a broad business background. Graduate Programs in Sustainable Business

City University of Seattle is for you. CityU was founded more than 35 years ago to provide education to anyone with the desire to learn. CityU is a leading not-for-proﬁt University attracting and catering to a diverse cross-section of adults throughout the US and 11 other countries serving undergraduates, graduates and business leaders returning to school. CityU of Seattle will help you ﬁnd the right program perfectly suited for your career path whether you choose a traditional Master of Business Administration (MBA) degree, Master of Arts in Leadership (MAL) or a Master of Science in Technology Management (MSTM). Take this opportunity to explore your career path. Find out why CityU is the right choice. Visit us online at www.CityU.edu/united or call 888-422-4898.

Investing in People

Master of Arts in Leadership

So if education is the key, where do you turn to advance your career and develop this competitive edge? How do you ﬁnd a university with a comfortable environment, especially if you’ve been out of the classroom for several years? For most people looking at going back to school, they’re hoping to join a classroom of like-minded learners. They want peers sitting across from them in a classroom or online who are juggling similar responsibilities from family life to career ambitions.

A distinctive international MBA that allows you to learn in three different countries.

Courses 96 | HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

Short of winning the lottery, education is a key to your future that you can bank on. Just look at the hard facts: The U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics recently reported people with a master’s degree earn 30 percent more per year than those with a bachelor’s degree. An advanced degree increases your chances of employment by upwards of 25 percent while adding to your annual earning potential.

Education is Recession Proof

One of the few accredited universities that offers a graduate certiﬁcate or MBA emphasis in Sustainable Business.

Master of Science in Project Management

Citywww.CityU.eduUniversityofSeattle11900NEFirstStreetBellevue,WA98005t:888.422.4898

t:Charlottesville,P.O.TheSemesterwww.semesteratsea.orgt:Bellevue,1000Bellevuewww.bellevue.eduUniversityGalvinRoadSouthNebraska68005800.756.7920atSeaInstituteforShipboardEducationBox400885VA22904434.243.4301 HEMISPHERES PROMOTION | 97

Businesses today are looking for leaders. One of the most effective ways for adults to demonstrate they have the knowledge and skills necessary for the job is a Bellevue University master’s Bellevuedegree.

University is a leader in adult learning with 15 online master’s degree programs that cover case studies and concepts current to business today including healthcare, management, leadership, and more. The ﬁrst to offer the MBA online, Bellevue University now offers the MBA with 11 concentrations in career-relevant subjects including healthcare, MIS, international management, and more. Find out more at 800-756-7920, and see

The modern, ocean-going campus of the MV Explorer has been described as one of the safest ships aﬂoat. Since 1963, Semester at Sea has sailed on 100 voyages, educated more than 50,000 students from 1,500 institutions, and traveled to more than 60 countries. Adult learners may also participate. Sail abroad today!

AddBellevue.edu.atrulyglobal semester to your college education.

Operated by an educational non-proﬁt, Semester at Sea’s unique shipboard study abroad program stands apart. Worldwide itineraries integrate rigorous coursework with ﬁeld assignments and service learning in up to 12 international destinations, providing the skills necessary to compete in today’s rapidly globalizing world. Credit earned is transferable by the University of Virginia.

Investing in People

The Rice MBA’s rigorous curriculum provides students with fundamental business disciplines and specialized electives that allow you to further integrate your knowledge and career Letobjectives.theworld-class faculty and talented students of the Rice MBA connect you to your next level of success.

The MBA in the College of Business at Washington State University has been developing leaders for over 50 years. Programs are delivered state wide to meet your leadership development needs:

Learn to evaluate business from new perspectives in the Rice MBA program. Located in Houston, Texas the Rice MBA from the Jones Graduate School of Business is designed to enhance business acumen while emphasizing a solid foundation in management and leadership skills.

Executive: Combines face-to-face and online learning; focus is on problems germane to your organization.

98 | HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

Full-Time: Focuses on professional development and personal growth while delivering course content relevant to business leaders of today.

Joneswww.business.rice.eduRiceUniversityGraduateSchoolofBusinessOfﬁceofAdmissions–MS5316100MainStreetHouston,TX77005t:888.844.4773or713.348.4918e:ricemba@rice.eduwww.mba.wsu.eduWashingtonStateUniversityPOBox644710Pullman,WA99164-4710t:509.335.7617e:mba@wsu.edu

Investing in People

Professional: Developed for working professionals, students attend a face-to-face program on a college campus part-time.

Online: Courses are robust, challenging, and interactive – all delivered by our world-class faculty in a state-of-the-art online learning environment.

you

you think. t:Reno,RoomAnsariUniversitywww.business.unr.eduofNevada,RenoBusinessBuilding409MailStop:0024NV89557-0024775.784.4912 HEMISPHERES PROMOTION | 99 Investing in People

Given its location nestled near the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the University of Nevada, Reno offers students a perfect learning environment in what has been dubbed “America’s Adventure Place” by travel writers throughout the country. The College of Business at the University of Nevada, Reno meets the needs of full-and part-time students by offering high quality undergraduate programs in marketing, accounting, management, ﬁnance, economics, international business, supply chain management and information systems. The College offers a variety of graduate programs including a part-time MBA which has been ranked as the 17th best part-time MBA program in the United States by BusinessWeek magazine. business is more than

University of Nevada, Reno Business is more than think

COLLEGE OF BUSINESS

To learn more about the exciting opportunities waiting for you visit www.business.unr.edu because

SEPTEMBER 2009 PLAY ENTERTAINMENT 102 Films & Television 109 Audio Programming 124 Crossword 126 Sudoku & INFORMATIONQuiz 112 United Destinations 116 Terminal Diagrams 121 Alliances & Partnerships 122 Customs & Immigration 128 Beverages & Food Jessica Biel revs her engine in Easy Virtue, playing this month.

FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONFILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION “Ryan [Reynolds] and I have been friends forever, at least nine years, before both of our marriages. Our timing seemed compatible, but you just don’t know until you get into a scene together.” Sandra Bullock on The Proposal, Harper’s Bazaar SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Proposal SEPTEMBER 16-30 State of Play [V] SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Office [T] This American Life Two and a Half Men [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 Time Warp Cities of the Underworld The Simpsons SEPTEMBER 1-15 Easy Virtue SEPTEMBER 16-30 Imagine That *Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii SEPTEMBER 1-15 30 Rock [T] Top Chef The Big Bang Theory [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 Parks and Recreation [T] Cities of the Underworld The Office: An American Workplace SEPTEMBER 1-15 State of Play [V] SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Proposal *Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Office [T] This American Life Two and a Half Men [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 Time Warp Cities of The Underworld The Simpsons SEPTEMBER 1-15 Imagine That SEPTEMBER 16-30 Easy Virtue SEPTEMBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Chuck [T] Top Chef SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Office [T] Dealiest Catch Eli Stone [T] SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Proposal SEPTEMBER 16-30 State of Play [V] SEPTEMBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] House [T] Ugly Betty [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 Everybody Hates Chris [T] Eureka [T] Chuck [T] SEPTEMBER 1-15 Imagine That SEPTEMBER 16-30 Easy Virtue SEPTEMBER 1-15 Frasier [T] Chuck [T] Desperate Housewives [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 Two and a Half Men [T] Eureka [T] Chuck [T] SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Proposal SEPTEMBER 16-30 State of Play [V] SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Mentalist [T] Cities of The Underworld SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Office [T] Deadliest Catch Eli Stone [T]HAWAIIAMERICANORTHJFK—SFO/LAXMEXICO&CARIBBEAN SEPTEMBER 1-15 Imagine That SEPTEMBER 16-30 Easy Virtue SEPTEMBER 1-15 30 Rock [T] Top Chef The Big Bang Theory [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 Parks and Recreation [T] Cities of the Underworld The Office: An American Workplace &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A309 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. SOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND

1 hr. 47 min.

A young Englishman marries an American divorcee somewhat spontaneously in the South of France and then must return home to face his family. Based on the play by Noel Coward, which was ﬁrst adapted by Alfred Hitchcock during the silent era, Easy Virtue is the epitome of British wit. The cast is led by Colin Firth, Kristin Scott Thomas and—as the American interloper—Jessica Biel, and the result is a wicked, high-toned comedy.

FEATURING Jessica Biel, Colin Firth, Kristin Scott Thomas

STATE OF PLAY [V] Academy Award–winner Russell Crowe leads an all-star cast in this blistering thriller about a rising congressman and an investigative journalist embroiled in a case of seemingly unrelated, brutal killings. Crowe portrays the D.C. reporter who untangles a mystery of murder and collusion that connects unexpectedly to an unﬂappable young politician (Ben Afﬂeck) who is the future of his political party. As the investigation continues, it reveals a cover-up that threatens to shake the nation’s power structures to their very core.

FEATURING Eddie Murphy, Nicole Ari Parker, Vanessa Williams

THE PROPOSAL Margaret, a high-powered book editor in New York, faces deportation to her native Canada. She declares that she’s engaged to her assistant, Andrew, whom she’s tormented for years. She clues him in, and he agrees to participate with a few conditions of his own. When the couple heads to Alaska to meet his family, the city girl finds herself in one comedic situation after another. With a wedding in the works and an immigration official on their tails, Margaret and Andrew vow to stick to the plan, no matter the consequences.

DIRECTED BY Anne Fletcher Touchstone Pictures

IMAGINE THAT Eddie Murphy stars as a successful financial executive who has more time for his BlackBerry than his seven-year-old daughter. When he has a crisis of confidence and his career starts going down the drain, he finds the solution to all his problems in his daughter’s imaginary world. As his career rebounds, though, will he manage to balance his priorities?

EASY VIRTUE

FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Ryan Reynolds

DIRECTED BY Stephan Elliott Sony Pictures 1 hr. 37 min.

DIRECTED BY Kevin Macdonald Universal Pictures 2 hr. 1 min. 1 hr. 48 min. Forgot your headphones? Buy them on board. Starting this fall, a limited number of headsets will be available for purchase in United Economy® on domestic ﬂights.

103HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

DIRECTED BY Karey Kirkpatrick Paramount Pictures

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

FEATURING Russell Crowe, Ben Afﬂeck, Rachel McAdams

FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISIONFILMTELEVISION INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在 747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different line-up before and after the start of each month. &FILMTELEVISION—B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING CHINAJAPAN & HONG THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONG The Proposal (J)(C) State of Play [V] (J)(C) The Great Buck Howard (J)(C) *Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S](J)(C) *East Coast/ORD only Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Frasier [T] Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Frasier [T] 17 Again セブンティーン・アゲイン (J) Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Frasier [T] Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T} / Frasier [T] DISCOVERY Dirty Jobs How Stuff Works Time Warp BBC WORLD Exploring Malaysia / Click HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People 17 Again セブンティーン・アゲイン (J) 青春高校: 回到 17 歲 (C) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S] (J)(C) BBC WORLD Exploring Peschardt’sHARDtalkClickMalaysiaPeople Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City Dragonball Evolution (J) Dragon Ball 七龙珠 (C) Star Trek (J)(C) Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Frasier [T] BBC WORLD Exploring Peschardt’sHARDtalkClickMalaysiaPeople The Proposal (J)(C) State of Play [V] (J)(C) The Great Buck Howard (J)(C) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [T][S](J)(C) Imagine That (J) 童一個夢想 (C) Easy Virtue (J)(C) The Soloist [T] (J)(C) *Star Trek [V][S] (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD flights only Imagine That (J) 童一個夢想 (C) Easy Virtue (J)(C) The Soloist [T] (J)(C) Star Trek [V][S] (J)(C) Dragonball Evolution (J) Dragon Ball 七龙珠 (C) BBC WORLD Exploring Malaysia / Click / HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City EASTBOUND WESTBOUND Desperate Housewives [T] NCIS [T][V] The Office [T] The Proposal Selbst ist die Braut (G) State of Play [V] (G) The Great Buck Howard (G) *Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [T][S] (G) *West Coast only House [T] This American Life Two and a Half Men [T] Imagine That Imagine That Die Kraft der Fantasie (G) Easy Virtue (G) The Soloist [T] (G) *Star Trek [V][S] (G) *West Coast only The Proposal (G) State of Play [V] (G) The Great Buck Howard (G) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [T][S] (G) House [T] Top Chef The Big Bang Theory [T] Imagine That (G) Easy Virtue (G) The Soloist [T] (G) Star Trek [V][S] (G) This American Life The Mentalist [T] Click AUSTRALIAGERMANY

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

105HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

1 hr. 40 min.

STAR TREK [V] [S]

1 hr. 42 min. 1 hr. 30 min.

FEATURING Jamie Foxx, Robert Downey Jr DIRECTED BY Joe Wright Paramount Pictures

2 hr. 7 min. IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

EVOLUTIONDRAGONBALL

FEATURING Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto, Zoe Saldana DIRECTED BY J.J. Abrams Paramount Pictures

17 AGAIN

FEATURING Matthew McConaughey, Jennifer Garner, Breckin Meyer DIRECTED BY Mark Waters New Line Cinema

The Great Buck Howard is a mentalist: He can read minds and hypnotize a room full of people. In his heyday, he had a marquis act in Vegas. Still, when Troy Gable tries to explain to his dad why he dropped out of law school to work for a mentalist, it doesn’t go over well. It’s obvious that Buck’s act has lost its luster. But Buck is convinced his comeback is around the corner. And Troy sticks around to ﬁnd out.

The story chronicles the early days of James T. Kirk and his fellow USS Enterprise crewmembers at Star Fleet Academy, with adventures stretching from earth to Vulcan. Baby Spock is logical and Scotty complains about the ship’s overworked engines. Kirk and Spock are brought center stage as the ﬁlm tracks how they became ofﬁcers aboard the Enterprise

THE BUCKGREATHOWARD

In the class of 1989, Mike O’Donnell is a star on his high school basketball team with a college scout watching him play and a bright future ahead. He decides instead to share his life with girlfriend Scarlett and the baby they are expecting. Almost 20 years later, Mike is given another chance when he is transformed back to the age of 17.

Photographer Connor Mead loves freedom, fun and women—in that order. His mockery of romance is a buzz-kill for his brother, Paul, on the eve of Paul’s wedding. Just when it looks like Connor may ruin the wedding, he is visited by the ghosts of his former jilted girlfriends, who take him on an odyssey through his failed relationships.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

THE SOLOIST [T] Journalist Steve Lopez discovers a vagrant who can play the violin. He learns his name is Nathaniel Anthony Ayers, a former classical music prodigy with schizophrenia. Lopez brings Ayers to a shelter where he can practice and turns Ayers into a local celebrity.

A live-action adaptation of the hugely popular manga, Dragonball centers on a humanoid alien named Goku who is trying to fulﬁll the wish of his dying grandfather: He must collect all seven mystical Dragon Balls in the world—which are said to grant the holder one perfect wish—to keep them out of evil hands.

FEATURING Zac Efron, Leslie Mann, Matthew Perry DIRECTED BY Burr Steers New Line Cinema

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

FEATURING John Malkovich, Tom Hanks, Colin Hanks DIRECTED BY Sean McGinly Summit Entertainment GHOSTS GIRLFRIENDSOF PAST [S] [T]

FEATURING Justin Chatwin, Yun-Fat Chow, Emmy Rossum DIRECTED BY James Wong 20th Century Fox

1 hr. 25 min.

1 hr. 54 min.

The guys examine dangerous ﬂying glass from stormblown windows. Then, Time Warp cameras take on paintballs, fancy bartending and professional yo-yos.

&FILMTELEVISION

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

Hundreds of ruins reveal clues to bloody Mayan rituals, advanced architecture and a belief in an unforgiving underworld of Mayan gods.

THE “PrinceOFFICEFamilyPaper”

Michael’s conscience gets the best of him after he and Dwight go undercover to scout a family-run competitor. Everyone else spends the day debating whether Hilary Swank is hot. Eastbound passengers can catch the action the second half of the month.

TOP “MeltingCHEFPot”

CITIES OF THE UNDERWORLD “Maya Underground”

Seventeen new chefs demonstrate their skills in challenges that send them into the ethnic districts of New York City Top Chef is nominated for ﬁve Emmy Awards this year.

TIME “Paintball”WARP

The universal experiences of growing up are exempliﬁed by people all across America named John Smith. This season ﬁnale is nominated for four Emmy Awards this year.

30 ROCK In “The Funcooker,” Jack needs a name for GE’s new pocket microwave, Liz tries to get out of jury duty, Jenna takes pills to help her stay awake, and Tracy tries to get fined by the FCC. 30 Rock has received 22 nominations for this year’s Emmy Awards—more than any other show.

HOUSE [T] “Dying Changes Everything” House’s preoccupation with Wilson leaves his team without direction and endangers the patient, a female whose exhaustive work schedule and demanding boss may have caused her condition. House is nominated for three Emmy Awards this year.

THIS AMERICAN LIFE [T] “John Smith”

The Ofﬁce has received nine nominations for this year’s Emmy Awards.

TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

years Awards

L et United PassPlus® point your business in the right direction. Business can take you anywhere at a moment’s notice, so it’s important to exercise control over your travel. United PassPlus entitles frequent travelers and businesses to: • Fare discounts of up to 25% • Greater flexibility when booking flights • Red Carpet Club ® access • Bonus miles • Mileage Plus ® elite memberships, and more Wherever you venture on business, United PassPlus can make your travels more affordable and rewarding. To learn more or to sign up, visit united.com/passplus . Participating airline partners include: ©2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

a sampling of XM’s

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer exclusive music channels enjoyment. Find model on the below on the to now communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents Wynonna. Her musical journey has taken her to the world’s biggest stages, first as one half of the award-winning duo The Judds, then as a charttopping solo artist. She brings her powerful voice into the SIRIUS XM Studios to sing her biggest hits and songs from her latest CD Sing: Chapter 1.

and review the selections

on XM. CH. *Live

for your inﬂight

SIRIUS

your aircraft

grid

channel listing. Everything worth listening

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO

109HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009 777 A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747757 & 767 737 17161512111054321687913141819 ’60s Hits MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE English ’70s Hits From the Flight Deck Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary HitsAdult Contemporary Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Top 20 Hits MOVIE English MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed ’60s Hits ’70s Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits Classical Pops From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz Top 20 Hits Unavailable ’60s Hits From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz ’70s Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits Classical Pops MOVIE English Top 20 Hits From the Flight Deck New Age New Age Classic Rock Classic Rock ’60s Hits New’70sAlternativeHits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming ’60s Hits MOVIE English Top 20 Hits Modern Adult Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming Classical PopsClassical Pops From the Flight Deck ’60s Hits MOVIE English UnavailableUnavailableUnavailable Top 20 Hits Top 20 Hits Blues Classical Pops Classical Pops From the Flight Deck ’80s Hits ’80s Hits ’80s Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits Adult Album Rock Adult Album Rock Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Classic Soul Original XM Programs

SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals. It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO CHANNELS & ARTISTS

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

CLASSIC ROCK Hold your lighters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac

MODERN ADULT HITS It’s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the Dave Matthews Band. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

CLASSICAL POPS Listen to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati Pops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa ’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Duran Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues.

NEW AGE Spa is a place of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, ﬂowing music.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay NEW ALTERNATIVE The latest alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain White T’s ’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than ever—from singer-songwriters and classic rock to R&B and disco.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents interviews and performances from original series “Artist Conﬁdential.” Wynonna comes to SIRIUS XM Studios to sing her biggest hits and songs from her latest CD, Sing, Chapter 1. Grammy-nominated rockers Fall Out Boy talk about their new album Folie à Deux and perform live. For more on SIRIUS XM’s “Artist Conﬁdential,” go to sirius.com or xmradio.com.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater Revival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dream, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s. WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes Forgot your headphones? Buy them on board. Starting this fall, a limited number of headsets will be available for purchase in United Economy® on domestic ﬂights.

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live features award-winning original content blended with a music mix of the most popular kids’ movie and TV soundtracks, plus Children’s Programming’s recording artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters

ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

111HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS The Blend is the musical soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton, John Mellencamp ’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits surﬁn’ tunes, “girl groups,” the British invasion, Woodstock. Featuring legendary DJ Cousin Brucie. WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan

TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 is the world’s ﬁrst fully interactive hit music experience, playing just the songs you vote for. Cast your vote anytime at 20on20.xmradio.com; then plug in and hear what’s hot.

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inﬂight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Black Eyed Peas, Fall Out Boy, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Kanye West

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapolisDesSpringfieldPierre Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150Miles 050100150200Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle ChadronAlliance Alamosa Scottsbluff Cortez Cheyenne Worland LiberalDodge City FargoDickinsonKearney Farmington GilletteGarden City Hays Laramie North Platte Pueblo Riverton Rock Springs Sheridan Williston LakePage/Powell CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ Casper Durango FresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperial Monterey Oxnard San Luis SantaObispoMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Huron Show Low Mexico City Billings Salina Manhattan Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend Kapalua Great Bend McCook Hilo MoabVernal SidneySaskatoonLewistown Miles City WolfGlasgowPoint Prescott MercedVisalia LakeMoses Regina ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United Route United Express Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner • Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Cities served by Star Alliance members Time zone boundry UNITED HUB Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Greenville/SpartanburgWestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston Columbia Columbus Nashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Greensboro/HighNewarkPoint/Winston-SalemRapidsGrandLexington Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis inneapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South pringfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeState Key West Wilkes ScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta CorningElmira/ Erie Halifax Ottawa PensacolaSarasota/BradentonTallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip Lynchburg New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0100200300400Miles 0100200300400500600Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenvillekansasrthwest RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantownBurlingtonWaynesville FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton 113HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

Sydney Adelaide Brisbane Cairns Gold CoastPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga Cook Portland OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) AucklandMelbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalSan Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Canberra Dalian Saipan ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Code Share route serviced by a United Partner • Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundry Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

PhiladelphiaMiami Aruba New YorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCapeTownMadrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna AtlantaDallas Detroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires Guatemala City San Salvador Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte Malabo JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul 115 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

Roadway BUS/SHUTTLE CENTER To Remote Parking CONCOURSE L CONCOURSE K CONCOURSE H CONCOURSE G CONCOURSE F CONCOURSE E Parking Garage LOTA Roadway F3 F1 E1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 C9 C7 C5 C3 C1 C4 C6 C8 C2 B9 B10 B11 C11 C10 C15 C17 C12 C16 C18 C20 C22 C24 C26 C28 C30 C32 C31 C19 C21 C23 C25 C27 C29 C18A B12 B14 B15 B16 B17 B18 E1A E2A E2 E3 CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE C CONCOURSE M TERMINAL THREE TERMINAL TWO ➡ F4 F5 F11 F2 F7 F9 F14 F12 F10 F8 B19 B20 B21 B22 International Terminal Five TERMINAL ONE B1 F6 E10 ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in bmi Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana UndergroundCheck-inCorridors, Moving Sidewalks Elevated Airport Transit Systems (ATS) ★ United Easy Check-in Medical Center ★ Airport Play Area—Kids on the Fly EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. Hotel Courtesy Shuttle, Pace Bus, Regional Buses, Off-Site Rent-a-Car, Off-Site Parking Shuttle. Follow the overhead signs in Baggage Claim. HOTEL CONTACT AND TERMINAL INFORMATION MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Language Assistance (Asian) 800-426-5560 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination ORD

and

66 68B TERMINAL 3 TOM BRADLEY INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6TERMINAL 7 TERMINAL 8 Roadway 70A 70B 72 75B 75A 73 71B 71A 80 74 69B7776 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 Mezzanine Level 12 8 4B US Airways Ticket Counter (Upper Level)US Airways Club H H TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS At United, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. Sometimes weather or other operational challenges make it necessary to delay or cancel a flight. The following information will help you understand what happens and what to do during these events: Flight canceled? Missed a connection? We will confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will provide you with new flight information and a boarding pass – and help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you standby and are not boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight until you are on board. What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. In some cases, your bags may arrive at your destination before you. United will secure the bag at your destination until you arrive and claim it. See a baggage claim representative upon arrival for assistance. WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United InternationalCheck-inArrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Gate Area Lufthansa Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in ANA Fuji Lounge/Gate Area Austrian Airlines Check-in Austrian Airlines Gate Area SAS Gate Area BWIA Gate EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. South African Airways US Airways Gates ★ United Easy Check-in US Airways Check-in LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Thai Airways Check-in Air Canada Check-in Air New Zealand Check-in ANA Inter-TerminalCheck-in Shuttle Bus Stop (Arrival Level) Singapore Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Check-in US Airways Gates Asiana Check-in ★ United Easy Check-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

united.com/easyupdate.

and apologize

What if I have to stay overnight? United will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher if your trip is delayed due to be able help at a If can at If you decide not to travel as a result of a canceled or delayed ﬂight, you may be able to use your ticket for a future trip or get a refund. Call us at 1-800 UNITED-1 for details and to cancel your itinerary. safety satisfaction are important. ness for any inconvenience may have experienced.

you ﬁnd a local hotel

not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see a baggage claim agent to request one. Help us keep you informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our complimentary messaging service, and receive automatic updates regarding any ﬂight changes. Enroll online

LAXIAD 117HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

a mechanical issue or another reason within our control. For uncontrollable events – such as weather – we may

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6 7 ParkingRoadwayGarage 8 91011 CENTRAL CONCOURSE DIAMONDHEAD EWA TERMINALINTERISLANDCONCOURSE DIAMOND HEAD CONCOURSE GATES 6-11 GATES 14-23 GATES 26-34 GATES 12-13GATES 24-25 GATESGATES55-6649-54 ★ SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Arrivals and Departures (Domestic) United Premier Check-in United Domestic Check-in United International Check-in & Departure Gates United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite (lower level) Singapore Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Air China Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Airlines Air New Zealand Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club (Third Level) Air New Zealand (Courtyard, Lower Level) ANA (Courtyard, Lower Level) Air Canada Gate Area US Airways Check-in Pedestrian Inter-TerminalCorridorShuttle Bus Stop Medical Center (Courtyard, Lower Level) EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. CONCOURSE A CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE C Terminal EastTerminal West 15 19 2317 21 25 27332931 3735 16 20 2418 22 26 28 3230 3634 39 6159575553514947454341 29 38 6058565452504846444140 42 43 ★ ★ ★ ★ 8381 87859189 57 63 677169 73797577 8280 86849088 92949593 33 35 3028 DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United InternationalCheck-inArrival Processing Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Gate Area Underground Train Medical Center (level six) ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. International Terminal Secure ConnectorDENSFOHNL TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. 71706968 7 73 7574 CONCOURSE F 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 90 89 87A TERMINAL 3 CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE G(Gates G91-G102) B26 B28B27 B29B30 72 CONCOURSE A TERMINAL 1 (Gates 1-12) 79 78B 78A77B77A76A76B 61 Medical Center ★ United EasyCheck-in ℞ Harmony Pharmacy & Health Center is in the Terminal 3, Concourse F hub DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS

SATELLITE 3 SATELLITE 4 Gates 31-47 SATELLITE South Wing Gates 51-58 Gates 21-25 Gates 11TERMINAL 1 SATELLITE 2 SATELLITE 1 North WingPedestrianTransferTunnel47 44454643424138 5251 55 56 57 B300-B303373533315832B332-B340 PIERC PIER BPIERA,LEVEL2(GatesA1-A42)PIERA,LEVEL3(GatesA51-A65) Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel B10 C6 C5 C4 B11-B16B20 B22 B23 B30-B35B42B1,B3-B9B2B41 B43 B44 B46B45 B47 B48B28 B27 B25B26 B24 C1-C3 C7-C9 Escalator TERMINAL 1 C8 ➔ Train to Terminal 2 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Arrivals Suite United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Senator Club Lufthansa Business Class Lounge Air Canada Check-in Train Station US Airways Gates US Airways Check-in Medical Center TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United and Star Alliance Premier Check-in United and Star Alliance Check-in Air New Zealand (Terminal 2) United Red Carpet Club (Third Floor) United First International Lounge (Fourth Floor) Medical Center ANA Lounge TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 16 18 17 19 21 23 25 27 28 26 31 29 27 11 23 13 20 22 21 19 17 16 18 BUS To/FromTRANSFERTerminals 3, 4 & 5 BUS To/FromTRANSFERTerminals 1, 2, 3 & 5 29 TERMINAL 4 39 41 43 48 50 52 54 3646 9343230 3836 40 42 35 1 3 574 90 88 86 84 82 80 7876 56 1357 TERMINAL 2 (Closing Early 2009) 5TERMINAL 24 9 12 1114 13 15 2 4 6 8 10 3 5 7 9 40423837 25 7 11 6 8 LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Premier Check-in Arrivals SASLufthansaLoungeCheck-inCheck-inbmiCheck-inStarAllianceDeparture Lounge Flight ConnectionsLHRFRANRT 119HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS US AIRWAYS HUBS CONCOURSE D D17-D26Gates D1-D14Gates D31-D43Gates CONCOURSE A CONCOURSE B B19-B25Gates B9-B17Gates A10-A15Gates A17-A23Gates B6B2B1A3 A5 A8 A7D50-D58Gates LAS VEGAS / MCCARRAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counter PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counters ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. Gates 1-9 Gates 10-19 Gates 20-26 2 Food CourtCONCOURSE E CONCOURSE C CONCOURSECONCOURSEB A CONCOURSEGatesD 2-19 Gates 1-16 Gates 1-13 4 ★ CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counter ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. 1 3 5 7 9 1113CONCOURSE F CONCOURSE E CONCOURSE D CONCOURSE CCONCOURSE BCONCOURSE A EAST TransatlanticGates(AllCarriers) 17161514 CONCOURSE A WEST Continuous1 Shuttle Bus Pickup and Drop-off Between Gates F10 and C16 Gates 18-26 Gates1-16 Gates16-31 GatesGates1-2324-39 ★ PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways International Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counters US Airways Express Check-in US Airways Club and Envoy Lounge ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. TERMINAL 2 5137 ★ Gates INTERNATIONALCONCOURSEB TERMINAL CONCOURSE4 BCONCOURSE A A17-A30Gates A1-A14Gates B1-B14Gates B15-B28Gates PHXPHLLASCLT MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. With more than 17,000 daily ﬂights, United and the other 23 Star Alliance carriers can take you to 916 destinations in 160 countries around the world. The qualifying ﬂights you take on Star Alliance carriers count toward your elite status in Mileage Plus. Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand AsianaANA SwissSpanairSouthSingaporeShanghaiScandinavianLufthansaLOTEgyptAirbmiAustrianAIrlinesPolishAirAirlinesAirwaysAirlinesAfricanAirwaysInternationalAir Lines TAP AdriaUSUnitedTurkishTHAIPortugalAirlinesAirwaysAirways(regional member) Blue 1 (regional member) Croatia Airlines (regional member) Mileage Plus Members can earn miles and redeem award travel on all Star Alliance partners. AFRICA PACIFICASIA CANADACARIBBEANEUROPE AMERICALATIN MEXICO MIDDLEEAST UNITEDSTATESSTAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS Frequent flier benefits not offered on all flights. Contact United Reservations for details. Aer Lingus Air VirginTAMTACAQatarJetIslandHawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlinesAirAirwaysAirwaysGroupBlue AFRICA PACIFICASIA CANADAEUROPE MEXICO MIDDLEEAST UNITEDSTATES EARN REDEEM Operated Gulfstreamby REGIONAL ALLIANCES CARIBBEAN AMERICALATIN FREQUENTBENEFITSFLIER 121HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Número de pasaporte 7. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 8. País donde reside 9. Ciudad donde tomó el avión 10. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 11. Fecha del visado (Diá/Mes/Año) 12. Dirección durante su estancia en los EE.UU. (Número, Calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Apellido 15. Nombre 16. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 17. País de ciudadania ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, fish, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

*Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) 6. Número de Pasaporte 7. Línea Aérea y Número de vuelo 8. País de residencia 9. Ciudad de embarque 10. Domicilio en Estados Unidos (número y calle) 11. Ciudad y Estado 12. Apellido 13. Nombre 14. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 15. Nacionalidad SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país.Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , ﬁrmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot. Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 123HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot. INFLIGHT

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom. *Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

STAYING FIT:

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender.

CROSSWORD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 49 ACROSS 1. Mouse action 6. Aberdeen native 10. Hair or tooth maybe? 15. Bookie’s quote 19. Marsh wader 20. Make lower or quieter 21. Indian coin 22. Gratis 23. Spin doctor’s concern 24. Farm measure 25. None of the above 26. Diplomat’s asset 27. A fruitcake or screwball 28. Impress on paper or metal 30. Bright thought 32. Acquire 33. Carpet layer’s calculation 35. Provide 39. Teatime treat 41. Flax fabric 44. Target 45. Thin out 46. Heavy fabric that resembles velvet 48. Coarse file 49. Bathroom cleaner? 50. Chipping choice 51. Not present 53. Nonwinner 54. Musical chairs goal 55. Not budging 57. Smooch 61. “___ magic!” 62. Priest of the East 65. Kuala homelandLumpur’s 67. “ a chance” 68. African antelope 69. Honor thieves 71. Gave out 72. Rocks, to a bartender 73. Spoil 74. Country that borders Thailand, Laos and Vietnam 78. Game piece 79. 20-20, e.g. 80. Call from the flock 82. British midafternoon meal 83. Told a whopper 84. Beside 86. Mouthed 88. Italian car 89. Begin 90. Advance 91. For all to see 93. Ill health or ail 95. Cry like a baby 96. Stopped in one’s tracks 97. Lagoon surrounder 98. French brandy 100. Computer info 104. Café alternative 105. Ardour 107. Big to-do 111. A.T.M. need 112. Forum wear 114. Not quite right 117. Dead against 118. Country with more than 6,000 islands 120. Arabic for “commander” 121. Arrangement 122. Increase, with “up” 123. Cognizant 124. Cost of living? 125. Bunk 126. “Encore!” 127. “Calm down” DOWN 1. 2008 Olympic site 2. Madagascar primate 3. Boiling mad 4. Minor player 5. “Trick” joint 6. Concrete section 7. 1985 sci-fi movie 8. Not theirs 9. Head lock 10. Sis’s sib 11. Same old, same old 12. Type of battle 13. Squalid 14. “Try this!” 15. Frequently, in verse 16. Make last too long 17. Adequate 18. Couch 29. Computer offering 31. “All kidding ...” 34. Apportion 36. Land on Lake Victoria 37. Type of government service 38. Soft diet 40. Court employee 42. Charge carrier 43. Victorian, for one 45. Remove impurities from 46. Battle of Hamburger Hill site 47. Wipeout? 48. 500 sheets 49. Miniature trees 52. Type of filled chair 53. Complete outfit for a new baby 54. Greek letter 56. “Spy vs. Spy” magazine 58. First 59. A formal association of people with similar interests 60. Knight mare? 62. Varnish ingredient 63. Passionate 64. Instant 66. Absorbed, as a cost 70. Caught 75. Renounce 76. Lion’s lunch or maybe a Chevy 77. Long, long time 81. Area of South Africa 83. Like composition paper 85. Big dipper 87. ’easter 88. Casbah headgear 89. Sweet liqueur 90. Delay 92. Betting group 93. “Is anything the ?” 94. Not out 95. Dried and flaked fish used in Japanese dishes BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ© 96. A printed note placed below the text on a printed page 98. Tiny part 99. Great divide 101. Dismay 102. It may be fit for a queen 103. Add on 106. Mascara site 108. “I’m you!” 109. Snowman prop 110. Like some doors 113. “A jealous mistress”: Emerson 115. Institute proceedingslegalagainst 116. Operative 119. Amazement 124 SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM THE FAR EAST Just type in www.shoebuy.com/united to start enjoying FREE Shipping And FREE Returns Over 800 brands and hundreds of thousands of product reviews The World’s Largest Site For ShoesSHOEbuy.com®

QUIZ PLAYING THE NUMBERS SUDOKU 1.A.COSMOPOLITANB.ZOMBIEC.KAMIKAZED.SIDECARE.HARVEYWALLBANGER2.A. J.P.MORGANB.P.T.BARNUMC.O.J.SIMPSOND.P.J.HARVEYE.L.L.BEAN3.A.FRIENDS (COURTENEYCOX,JENNIFERANISTON,DAVIDSCHWIMMER)B.ER(ANTHONYEDWARDS,MEKHI PHIFER,GEORGECLOONEY)C.MOONLIGHTING(BRUCEWILLIS,CYBILLSHEPHERD,CURTIS ARMSTRONG)D.BUFFYTHEVAMPIRESLAYER(ALYSONHANNIGAN,MICHELLETRACHTENBERG, SETHGREEN)E.SEINFELD(JULIALOUIS-DREYFUS,MICHAELRICHARDS,JASONALEXANDER)F. STARTREK(WILLIAMSHATNER,LEONARDNIMOY,NICHELLENICHOLS).MODERATEEASYHARD 1.2.3. ACTUALLY, YES, IT IS WHAT YOU KNOW // BY NOAH TARNOW SUMMER SCHOOL 126 SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

Name the mixed drink, based on the ingredients and the cryptic clue.

Name the famous people who are primarily known by their initials—without the initials. For example, “Oanne Athleen, extremely popular fantasy writer” indicates Joanne Kathleen Rowling, a.k.a. J.K. Rowling. Ohn Ierpont, iconic businessman Hineas Aylor, huckster circus showman decidedly controversial Olly Ean, Eon Eonwood,

D. Combine brandy with orange-ﬂavored liqueur and lemon juice; shake with ice and strain, and you’ll be tagging along with the two-wheeler.

A. Shake vodka and triple sec with lime juice and cranberry juice, and you can take a quiz to ﬁnd out how spontaneous you are in the bedroom.

1. THE MIXOLOGY MINDBENDER

E. Float Galliano liqueur on top of vodka and OJ, and the imaginary rabbit will be pounding on the room divider.

C. Mix vodka, triple sec and lime juice with ice; strain, and die for the glory of the emperor.

C. Renthal Ames,

B. Blend several kinds of rum with apricot brandy, orange juice, lime juice, pineapple juice, passion fruit syrup, powdered sugar and ice, and you’ll be eating brains in no time.

2. INITIALLY KNOWN

supreme and

English indie-rock musician E.

Maine mail-order magnate 3. MOVIE + MOVIE + MOVIE = TV Take one star from each ﬁlm. Put them together, and you get the partial cast of what TV show? A. Ace Ventura + Along Came Polly + Madagascar = ? B. Revenge of the Nerds + 8 Mile + Good Night and Good Luck = ? C. Die Hard + Taxi Driver + Better Off Dead = ? D. American Pie + Harriet the Spy + Austin Powers = ? E. Christmas Vacation + Coneheads + Pretty Woman = ? F. Dodgeball + Invasion of the Body Snatchers (1978) + Are We There Yet? = ? ANSWERS 1. 2. 3.

retired athlete D.

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HAVE DRINKREFRESHINGA NONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES WINES • Soft Drinks • Tonic Water • Seltzer Water • Natural Spring Water • Milk • Tea • Assorted Fruit Juices • Starbucks Regular and Decaffeinated Coffees UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Please refer to the printed menu. BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS UNITED FIRST, BUSINESS AND ECONOMY Starbucks Coffee Coke Diet Coke Sprite Sprite Zero Ginger Ale Bloody Mary Mix Apple and Tomato Juices Spring Water Selections may vary on United Express flights. It is United policy on all flights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international flights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin. Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. BEER • Miller Genuine Draft • Miller Lite • Heineken Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some international flights. COCKTAILS • Bloody Mary • Screwdriver SPIRITS • Bacardi Rum • Canadian Club Reserve • Dewar’s White Label Scotch • Finlandia Vodka • Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey • Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey • Tanqueray Gin LIQUEURS • Courvoisier VSOP Cognac • Bailey’s Irish Cream • Kahlúa The following are available only on international flights: • Absolut Vodka • Chivas Regal Scotch • Di Saronno Amaretto • Glenlivet (premiumScotchcabins only) &FOODBEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK Beverage service is available on most United flights. Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic flight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6 on most flights. UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS DOMESTIC FLIGHTS You will be offered a choice of red and white wines. Selections may include the following: RED • Montevina Sierra Zinfandel 2005 California • Trapiche Malbec 2008 Mendoza WHITE • Canyon Road Chardonnay 2007 California • Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Western Cape THE FOLLOWING IS AVAILABLE ON SELECT UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS: SPARKLING WINE • Brut D’Argent NV UNITED ECONOMY ALL FLIGHTS RED • Kingfish Shiraz • Redwood Creek Cabernet WHITE • Kingfish Chardonnay • Redwood Creek Chardonnay

EACH SANDWICH IS SERVED WITH A BAG OF CHIPS.

ALL SALADS ACCOMPANIED BY A SELECTION OF FRESH, SEASONAL MIXED FRUIT.

SMOKED TURKEY AND SWISS CLUB WRAP Thin-sliced mesquite turkey breast and turkey bacon, topped with crisp romaine lettuce, cucumber, tomato, red onion and Swiss cheese, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla.

ENJOY A SNACKBOX OR A FRESH FOOD ITEM. Breakfast is available on flights departing before 10 a.m. A choice of snackboxes, salads and sandwiches is available on flights departing after 10 a.m. and prior to 8 p.m. Active and Classic snackboxes are $6; Luxe and Organic are $7; fresh food items are $9. Individual à la carte snack items are available for $3 each on flights two hours and longer.* SNACKBOXES // AVAILABLE ON MAINLINE FLIGHTS OF TWO HOURS AND LONGER. $6–$7* • Stoned Classics Tortilla Chips • Heinz Salsa • Blue Diamond Almonds • Think Fruit PomegranateChocolatePowerBar • Newman’s Own Organic Raisins • Hannah’s Honey Cured Turkey Stick • Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips • Oreo Cookies • Jelly Belly Gourmet Jelly Beans • Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers • Sparrer Beef Salami • Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Rondele Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips • Oloves Mediterranean or Vinaigrette Olives • Wild Garden Hummus Dip • Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks • Ashers Dark Chocolate Pretzel • Late July Organic Cheddar Cheese Crackers • Terra Nostra Organic Dark Chocolate Square • Kettle Valley Organic Fruit Snack • Nature’s Path Organic Pumpkin Flaxplus Granola • Bare Fruit Organic Cinnamon Apple Chips À LA CARTE ITEMS On flights two hours and longer • Lay’s Stax Potato Chips • Walkers Shortbread Cookies • Toblerone Chocolate Bar • Clif Bar Oatmeal Raisin Walnut • Odwalla Banana Nut Nutrition Bar • Fisher Salty Nut Mix LUNCHSANDWICHESANDDINNER SALADS Smoked Turkey and Swiss Club Turkey and Bacon Cobb Salad On selected intra-Pacific flights originating from Japan, enjoy a Trader Vic’s meal in United First or United Business. FRESH FOOD ITEMS // ONE CHOICE AVAILABLE ON SELECT FLIGHTS OF FIVE HOURS AND LONGER. $9* BREAKFAST An assortment of gourmet cheese and crackers, accompanied by a seasonal fresh-fruit mixture, fresh yogurt and one of the following: • banana miniloaf • raspberry breakfast cake • apple Danish *United flights within North America (including U.S., Canada, Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean) accept credit/debit cards only. Effective September 2, Europe and South America flights will accept credit/debit cards only. United Express flights accept cash only. Due to limited space, all snackboxes may not be available on all Snackboxflights.contents may vary slightly based on product availability. None of the items in the snackboxes contain peanuts, peanut flour or peanut oil. Some products have been manufactured in a facility that also processes peanuts and are labeled as such. Flight attendants will advise which selections are available on your flight.

GRILLED ASIAN CHICKEN SALAD Grilled Asian chicken breast served with a blend of radicchio and Napa cabbage along with fresh cilantro, cucumbers and julienne carrots, served with an Asian sesame-ginger dressing.

JULIENNE CHEF SALAD Crisp romaine lettuce topped with Black Forest ham, julienne oven-roasted turkey breast, Napa cabbage, shredded cheddar cheese, diced tomato, chopped black olives and sliced hardboiled egg, served with ranch dressing.

GRILLED TUSCAN CHICKEN AND SALAMI WRAP Sliced marinated chicken breast, thinly sliced Genoa salami and provolone cheese, topped with baby spinach, shredded Napa cabbage, roasted red tomato and kalamata olives, with a basil garlic-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla.

129 ACTIVE CHOICEMENU ACTIVE CHOICEMENU CLASSIC CHOICEMENU LUXE CHOICEMENU ORGANIC HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

TURKEY, CHEDDAR AND ASPARAGUS WRAP Sliced oven-roasted turkey breast and cheddar cheese, topped with shredded Napa cabbage, baby spinach, asparagus and roasted red tomato, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla.

TURKEY AND BACON COBB SALAD Crisp romaine lettuce topped with diced roasted turkey, chopped bacon, diced tomatoes, sliced black olives, diced Swiss cheese and hard boiled-egg wedges, served with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing.

SEPTEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 130 PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON GETTING TO KNOW

I NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT My eye mask and neck pillow, and I wear Skins compression tights under my pants, which help keep my legs from swelling. Also, I stay connected with my laptop and BlackBerry, and I always stop for a huge bottle of water before boarding. You’ve got to stay hydrated.

WHO CARLI LLOYD 27 / Chicago Red Stars pro soccer player (and 2008 Olympic gold medalist) WHY I’M FLYING I’m heading to Los Angeles with the U.S. Women’s national team for a two-week training camp. We’re preparing for the 2011 World Cup in Germany. I’m on a plane seven or eight times a month.

IF I WEREN’T A SOCCER PLAYER I’d love to be a pilot. Flying’s a part of my life now, and I think it’s really cool. It’s a dream of mine to be in a cockpit.

BY PETER KOCH in transit YOU

“I’d love to be a pilot. Flying’s a part of my life now, and I just think it’s really cool.”

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The world’s first digital noise canceling headphones, by Sony ®. In an independent, blind test, frequent business travelers rated them #1 twice as often as either the Bose ® QC ™ 2 or QC ™ 3 in overall noise cancellation and audio quality. Learn why digital noise canceling is better at sony.com/headphones © 2009 Sony Electronics Inc. Sony and the Sony logo are trademarks of Sony. Bose, QC are trademarks of Bose Corp. Sony ® Digital Noise Canceling headphones reduce 99% of ambient noise. NC500D

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine September 2009

Articles inside

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Beverages & Food

“Shoes” In Cuba, footwear can be the stuff of dreams.

Wok on the Wild Side Chinese

Fantasy Football The NFL

In Praise of Jet Lag A frequent

Cheap Thrills Online game producer Zynga amasses a fortune, one dollar at a time.

Collective Memory

A Shot of Wry The Soup's Joel

Voices With Chicago’s Olympic bid under consideration, Mayor Richard Daley discusses the city’s future.

News What to see, where to stay when to go

Scarlett Fever Pete Yorn and Scarlett Johansson make sweet music together on Break Up.

Uncommon Scents Halston gets haute again with a new signature

Connections United helps Team USA go for the gold.

Goods Gizmos and gear

Notes From All Over Baseball’s

Whirlwind Five hours in St. Louis