United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine October 2009 by Ahmed Aamir

HEMISPHERES A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER IN NEW YORK A A LL IA NC E ME MB ER PERFETHREEC T DAYS: HARBINTREAFTHESESPARIS’TPAINTINSHANGHAIGTHEOWNWITHSECRETIVETREET-ARTNSATIONHUNTORBURIEDSURENEWYORKOR PLUS BEN KINGSLEY, JULIA LOUIS-DREYFUS AND THE THIRST FOR COCONUT WATER

Best coverage worldwide. Best coverage claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. ©2009 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners. Coverage not available in all areas. att.com/global More phones that work in more than 215 countries, like Norway.

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3PD SHANGHAI | P. 82 Oct. STREET FIGHTER A French

BY LAURIE WERNER 827468 contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM BIBIKOW/PHOTOLIBRARYWALTERBYPHOTOGRAPH The view inside the Jin Mao Tower YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

BY RACHEL STURTZ FINDERS KEEPERS Scientist

Visitors to modern Shanghai are greeted by top-shelf restaurants and bars, and vertigo-inducing skyscrapers complete with futuristic forms and mesmerizing lights. artist-provocateur known only as JR travels to the world’s most dangerous places and documents their underprivileged citizens—on canvases four stories tall. and treasure hunter Ken Hayes is searching the murky waters separating Staten Island and New Jersey to ﬁnd $26 million in lost silver. He’s not the only one. SHANGHAI century ago, the largest city in China buzzed with art, architecture and fashion. Today, it’s returning to its former glory—and producing some darn ﬁne soup dumplings, too.

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departments COVER IMAGE Istvan Banyai // ist-one.com Last month’s cover illustration was by Jillian Tamaki // jilliantamaki.com. 8 Contributors 11 Voices Senior V.P. Kevin Knight discusses how United gets 60 million people a year where they want to go. 14 Connections United is upgrading cabins to upgrade your comfort. 16 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 19 Notes From All Over Hemingway’s musical debut; Nashville cools off with haute popsicles; hanging loose in Rio; the King of Pop’s velvet memorial; and video games go high-brow in Brooklyn. DIRECTIONS 25 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go 31 Goods Gizmos and gear 35 Whereabouts Actor Ben Kingsley ﬁnds comfort in Prague’s history. 36 Whirlwind Five hours in Stockholm CULTURE 39 Jean Therapy Gap designer Patrick Robinson is singing the blues—and reinventing affordable denim. // By Sarah Horne 40 OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED .C OM ARCHIVECLIMBHILLINTERNATIONALPEAKPIKESOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHWRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 40 The Early Riser Enigmatic R&B singer Meshell Ndegeocello throws listeners for another loop with Devil’s Halo By K. Leander Williams 42 Something Old, Something New Julia Louis-Dreyfus shakes the Seinfeld curse with her hit sitcom— and reunites with Jerry and the boys on Curb Your Enthusiasm By Adam K. Raymond 46 There Will Be Blood Readers are stillsinking their teeth into the ever-popular genre of vampire lit. By Doree Shafrir 49 Wonder Bread A Massachusetts mom turns a hobby into a national charity that offers hope and support, one loaf at a time. By Jonathan Vatner 51 On the Water Front Powered by electrolytes and a tidal wave of hype, coconut water has become big business. // By Alyssa Giacobbe 55

63 To Hall and Back A trip to the baseball mecca in Cooperstown creates an unlikely bond between a baseball obsessive and his skeptical girlfriend. By Yates Walker Artifact A souvenir from the ﬁeld Movies, television and audio programming Route Maps Terminal Diagrams quiz you? Pikes Peak Hill Climb,

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The Fish Less Eaten Eco-conscious sushi aficionados are finding tasty and sustainable alternatives to the endangered bluefin tuna. By Jane Black Higher Power Racers have tackled Pikes Peak since 1916. This year, a veteran attempts a record in a 800-horsepower Ford Fiesta. By Kelly Bastone

128 Beverages & Food 130 In Transit Who’s sitting next to

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GRANT STODDARD Stoddard has written for GQ, Glamour, Men’s Health and other publications. “My favorite place to travel is Rio,” says the Whistler, Canada–based writer. “It’s just incredibly vibrant and sexy. But I would love to go to Tokyo, which I imagine must be like visiting the future.” Stoddard dived into the past for “Finders Keepers” (page 74).

STEFAN KILLEN The pinhole photographer loves “the element of chance.” His work often puts him in precarious situations. “I was on a ferry, and a crew member told me I was making people really nervous with my little cardboard camera,” he says. After shooting “Finders Keepers” (page 74), his next project is ﬁguring out a point-and-shoot. “I would love to go digital,” he says. “But ﬁrst I need to learn how to use a regular camera.” Follow his progress at pinholeny.com.

DOREE SHAFRIR When not working on her own websites— PostcardsFromYoMomma.com (which publishes emails from mothers to their adult children) and doreeshafrir. com—Shafrir writes for The New Yorker and The New York Times, and reads vampire lit (page 46). “I devoured the Twilight series,” she says. “Though I have yet to see the movies.”

8 contributors OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.C OM EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy ASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Fine, Porter Fox, Jason Gay, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Willa Paskin, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERNS Katie Gant, Tiffanie Green, Peter Koch, Ashley Venable PHOTO INTERN Valeria Suasnavas GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Michael Keating US EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com ONLINE TEAM Salah Lababidi, Martin Buhr, Andy Shaw ADVERTISING PUBLISHER Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Al Loise, Catherine Hanson, Cynthia Carns, Emily Anton, Issac Ingram, Jonathan Ebert, Jorge Abadi, Ryan Smith REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVES COLORADO Lauren Grillo TEL: +1 HAWAII303-256-6986 Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SE ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST PRODUCTIONTEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLER Grace Rivera TEL: +1 678-553-8080 EXT 135 Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

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OLIVER JEFFERS Having just ﬁnished his sixth book of illustrations, The Heart and the Bottle, Jeffers is working on a collaborative project called Look at Book. In his spare time, he draws maps for “Whirlwind” (page 36), which suits him well. “When I go on a book tour, I always set aside a few hours of unscheduled time in each place,” he says. “I’ve breezed about Bologna, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong and Mexico City—each in under ﬁve hours.”

K. LEANDER WILLIAMS Based in Brooklyn, New York, Williams contributes to Entertainment Weekly and describes himself as “a freelancer who’s been around the block a few times but has yet to tire of the scenery.” He’s also enjoying the audio landscape, grooving to Meshell Ndegeocello (page 40) and looking forward to this month’s releases by Rosanne Cash, The Roots and Anouar Brahem.

RACHEL STURTZ A Fitness editor and Hemispheres contributor, Sturtz also writes for Marie Claire and Esquire While reporting this month’s proﬁle of street artist JR (page 68), she helped paste up building-size photos on Paris walls. “That project inspired me,” she says. “I’d like my grandmother’s face to cover a building. She had the most beautiful wrinkles.”

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• Save from 5% to 50% on next year’s travel.* • Use your business travel to save on your vacation. • Start ear ning your savings as soon as you book and fly. V isit united.com/savemore now to learn more or to register. The more you ﬂ y this year, the more you can save next year. 1 2 3 4 5 6+ 5% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% QUALIFYINGTRIPSHOW IT E-CERTIFICATEWORKS%DISCOUNT *E-certificate is valid for travel between February 1, 2010 and May 31, 2010. Some blackout dates may apply. To qualify for this offer, members must register, then purchase and complete at least one paid, qualifying roundtrip flight on United® or United Express® operated flights within the following ticketing and travel periods. For this offer, roundtrip travel is defined as two each-way segments with outbound travel from an origin city to a destination city and return travel from the original destination city to the original departure city. All segments must be on United or United Express, booked under one reservation and on one ticket. Open jaw and circle trips do not qualify. Offer valid for members residing in the U.S. (including Hawaii), Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands. Ticketing period: September 14 - December 31, 2009. Travel period: September 14 - December 31, 2009. Not combinable with other noncombinable offers. Registration requirement: Registration is required anytime prior to travel, or within 30 days after travel, but must be completed by December 31, 2009 in order to qualify for the program. Passenger must be a member of United’s Mileage Plus frequent flyer program in order for travel to qualify for this offer. Flights must be credited to the member’s Mileage Plus account in order to qualify. Offer valid on all paid, published fares in United First,® United Business® and United Economy.® Not valid on government fares. E-certificates will be emailed 4-6 weeks after the offer period ends, to the email address submitted during registration. E-certificate is valid for travel within the United States, or between the United States and Canada, Puerto Rico, or the US Virgin Islands. Valid for travel on United- and United Express - operated flights only. Not valid on United-marketed code-share flights operated by other carriers. Miles accrued, awards issued and bonus offers are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. The Mileage Plus program, including accruals, awards and bonus miles offers, is subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. For complete details about the Mileage Plus program, visit the Mileage Plus section of united.com. Offer subject to change without notice. Other restrictions may apply. (MPD579) ©2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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A self-proclaimed “airline junkie,” he had a keen interest in becoming How does Kevin Knight, United’s senior vice president of planning, manage the airline’s complex and ever-shifting ﬂight schedule and pricing plans? Very carefully, and very well. BY ROD O’CONNOR

IT’S NOT AN EASY THING, predicting the future. But with the help of some sophisticated algorithms, optimization models and a dedicated staff, Kevin Knight, United’s senior vice president of planning, looks into a crystal ball every single day.

Knight and his team are charged with forecasting the demand for each seat on each flight to the more than 200 destinations across the airline’s expansive international flight map. Based on that potential demand, they begin work well in advance to develop a global flight schedule and pricing plan.

“In essence, we’re responsible for determining where we ﬂy and for pricing our product,” says Knight, 53, whose glasses convey a studious demeanor, but whose calm conﬁdence projects a man totally at ease with a job that moves at lightning speed.

The process is a massive undertaking, requiring constant analysis of streams of ﬁnancial information, competitive data and operational factors. Knight’s team of revenue managers and scheduling analysts must also consider the schedules and connection possibilities with United Express partners and fellow Star Alliance members. And all that number-crunching and prognosticating is focused on one goal: creating a competitively priced product that best meets customers’ needs and allows the airline to operate proﬁtably.

Of course, even the most skilled fortune teller couldn’t have predicted the depth of the current economic downturn, which has resulted in signiﬁcant declines in demand for air travel. This has caused United, like other businesses, to resize its service to ﬁt the marketplace. For the year, United’s capacity will be down roughly eight percent, a number that’s in line with other major carriers. Knight acknowledges that any service reduction represents an inconvenience for someone.

IntoMatrixthe voices 11 SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPH HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

THROUGHOUT THE MONTH of October, United and United Express employees are showing their support for the Breast Cancer Network of Strength and its effort to provide services for individuals and families touched by breast cancer. By purchasing and wearing specially designed neckties, scarves and hats, our colleagues are helping to provide ongoing support to those affected by breast cancer—including patients, their family members, friends and coworkers. October is National Breast Cancer Awareness month, and United is a proud, committed partner in the ﬁght against cancer. Over the past ﬁve years, United employees, friends and family have participated in the Breast Cancer Network of Strength’s annual Mother’s Day Walk to Empower events across the country—and through the enthusiastic fundraising efforts of our Walk to Empower teams, we’ve raised nearly $2 million for the organization. If you’d like to support the Breast Cancer Network of Strength through the donation of your Mileage Plus miles, visit united. com/charitymiles.

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPH

“What I take the most pride in is our network itself—we have one of the most compelling network propositions in the industry,” Knight says. “But beyond that, it’s the day-to-day victories that are most satisfying. If we provide convenient schedules at an attractive price and they make ﬁnancial sense for the airline—that’s a very good day.”

He’s crunching the pricing data from United’s competitors; he’s also looking at aircraft availability and traffic information at both airports. “I’m conﬁrming the additional trip works operationally and in a costeffective way for the airline,” Moeller explains. Everything checks out, and with a click of his mouse, the ﬂight goes live—from idea to reality.

12 OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

voices After more than 30 years in various planning positions, Knight has pored over enough analytics to know that any airline’s success depends on the constant tightrope walk matching capacity with demand.

a pilot and enrolled in the aviation program at Westminster College. He worked at airports all through college—as a customer service representative and ramp worker, in the freight office, pretty much everywhere—and ultimately chose the management route, where he could combine his passion for ﬂying with his knack for business.

After more than 30 years in various planning positions with airlines including Hughes Airwest (a small carrier once owned by Howard Hughes), Northwest Airlines and, since 1993, United, he’s pored over enough analytics to know that any airline’s success is attributable at least in part to the constant tightrope walk matching capacity with demand.Tobuild its schedule, United must look at more than simply how many people want to go from point A to point B; the company also has to take into account the revenue potential of every market and the operational costs—staffing, airport fees, maintenance—requiredequipment to serve each destination. “There are situations where our customers would love us to provide nonstop service to a point, and it’s simply not viable for us to do so,” he says. This is a reality every carrier faces. However, one of United’s distinct competitive advantages is its strength of schedule: Five hubs, all in large markets (Chicago, Denver, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Washington, D.C.), the United Express partnerships and key global air rights in Asia, Europe and Latin America through Star Alliance, have helped United weather the recession.

“We look to match United’s capacity with market demand,” Knight explains. “In some cases we’re flying larger aircraft, and other times smaller aircraft with higherConstantfrequency.”updates to United’s schedule require a staggering amount of work behind the scenes. In many ways, the process is something like an assembly line; planners set schedules six or more months in advance and then pass them along to colleagues who “operationalize” them by ensuring gates are available, that each plane has enough ground time to be cleaned and loaded, and that proper flight and ground crews are assigned.Bythetime a schedule arrives on the desk of Michael Moeller, one of Knight’s analysts, there are just 45 days to go. And right now, Moeller sees an opportunity to add a weekend flight from Chicago to Columbus, which explains why he’s power-scrolling through two computer screen’s worth of data that look like something out of The Matrix performanceheSimultaneously,scrutinizesflight-histories.

Pink Is in the Air

Despite a drop in capacity during the downturn, United serves approximately the same number of cities it did a year ago. The airline has even increased service in some markets, for instance offering new nonstop ﬂights from Washington, D.C., to Moscow, Dubai and Geneva. And leveraging the smaller aircraft of its regional partners has allowed United to maintain service in cities that can’t support larger jets.

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THERE’S A GOOD CHANCE you’re seated on a United or United Express ﬂight right now. And except for the aroma of freshly brewed Starbucks coffee or the view outside the window, nothing should distract you from this magazine.

Why? Because United has invested signiﬁcantly in cabin upgrades to ensure that your experience is a comfortable one.

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPH

A CABIN EXPERIENCE THAT’S TRULY FIRST CLASS If you’ve joined us recently in our United First or United Business cabins on a Boeing 747 or 767, you may have been seated in one of our new lie-ﬂat seats with ondemand entertainment. We plan to start reconﬁguring our B777 aircraft in 2010. And we expect a project to cover United First seats with leather on most Unitedoperated aircraft in North American markets will be complete by late 2010. These changes come from the feedback of thousands of customers who have completed online surveys. In summer 2009, groups of frequent travelers stepped onboard United aircraft in Denver, San Francisco and New York with our Marketing and Maintenance teams to tell us what they think is most important when they rank cabin condition. Because of their feedback, you can look forward to more great changes to come.

Notice a brighter, cleaner appearance? We hope so. We’re installing “cool white” lighting on United aircraft and, perhaps most importantly, we’ve doubled the frequency of our most thorough interior aircraft scrubbings. And our cleaning solutions are EPA-rated as environmentally friendly. We’ve upgraded audio and video systems, and increased the frequency of inspection, maintenance and replacement of seat controls, reading lights and window shades. All of that means that when you want to recline your seat, your seat will recline. When you want to dive into that great new mystery novel, you’ll have a working reading light. Because when a ﬂight attendant encourages you to “sit back, relax and enjoy your ﬂight,” we want to make sure you can.

For example, if you ﬂy frequently in North America, you’ll notice new leather seating throughout the cabin on many of our Airbus A320 aircraft. And all United aircraft are getting new, updated upholstery and carpeting.

14 connections

Visit United.com Sit Back, Relax... Cabin upgrades make it easier for you to enjoy your ﬂight.

KIND OF BLUE // A horseman cools off his herd at the end of a hot Caribbean day. OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 16 wish you were here

DICKENSON BAY, ANTIGUA // PHOTOGRAPH BY PATRICK MCCARTHY

dispatches

Don’t Tell Papa London

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009 NOTES FROM ALL OVER

After the curtain call, sympathetic fans wait by the stage door to congratulate the cast. The show’s librettist, Roberto Trippini, is ﬁrst to emerge. “Please, no—not for me,” he says of the halfhearted applause that greets him. “The real stars are still to come.” A few minutes later the cast appears and

London’s theater critics are thought to be fairly generous compared to their Broadway counterparts, but every once in a while, a show brings out their darker side. This season, Too Close to the Sun—nicknamed “To Close on Sunday”—was that show. At preview performances, audience members broke into laughter at serious moments, earning a scolding from the production manager. A critic suggested that the singing would be “best appreciated by canine members of the audience.” After the musical posted its closing notice, a small group of devotees—people the Daily Mail called “connoisseurs of stage disasters”—began turning up for the remaining shows, not to revel in its failure so much as to remind themselves just what a miracle it is when a show actually works (London standouts this year include A Streetcar Named Desire and Waiting for Godot).

When a West End musical about Ernest Hemingway’s ﬁnal days gets savaged by critics, a hearty band of camploving theatergoers braves its ﬁnal curtain. BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU

ON A RECENT EVENING in the West End, the aroma of Korean food wafts through the Comedy Theatre, where Too Close to the Sun—an unlikely musical about the days leading up to Ernest Hemingway’s demise—is halfway through its ﬁnal performance. As the house lights come on for intermission, a theatergoer tucks into a chicken curry. Smuggling hot food into a theater is usually frowned upon, but there are few fellow audience members around to complain. “It’s the highlight of the evening,” the diner says.

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“I bring the stories, and we all decide which game works best,” explains Kim. “They’re the experts.”

In the tiny Brick Theater, six teenage actors in shorts and sneakers sit behind laptops, their backs to the audience. As the Xbox logo begins glowing on a large white sheet hanging on the stage, the house lights go down and armor-clad soldiers from the popular game Halo 3 appear. An act of 21st century puppetry begins unfolding as the faceless troops become characters in a 2,000-year-old story of hubris and suffering. “May her insults recoil on her own head!”

“There’s a lot of creativity involved,” says Maura Verne, whose son Connor is in the play. “They’re not just playing video games.”

SETH KUGEL is showered with confetti (theatergoers, in a winking reference to the show’s climactic shotgun blast, have brought party poppers).

dispatches HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

ADAM K. RAYMOND

One balmy afternoon pedestrians walking along Rua Gonçalves Ledo on their way to work stop and stare as the pair literally hang out, attached to the building by rock-climbing equipment that allows them to maneuver from bolted-in bed to dining table to dresser. Since July 1, Tiago, 27, and Gabriel, 20, have spent an average of 12 hours a day on theWhatbuilding.drove them up a wall? In a word, art. The vertical living space occupies an external wall of A Gentil Carioca, one of a growing number of art galleries in a downtown neighborhood better known for the bustling Saara shopping area and a thriving nightlife. The gallery has been sponsoring bizarre art projects on the wall for four years, but this twomonth residency is the ﬁrst time the artists themselves were part of the exhibit. Tiago denies that the brothers—both art students—have any deep message. No commentary about urban landscapes, modern society or Rio’s homeless. “We just want to make it as interesting as possible,” he says, reclining on the chair and sounding suspiciously slackerish. Gawking levels indicate a mission accomplished. This afternoon, a passerby asks if the room is for rent. Another wants the hammock when the exhibition ends. “No way,” says Tiago. “It’s from my bedroom.”

The evening began with a Japanese Noh theater classic performed within World of Warcraft and a Samuel Beckett piece translated into Warcraft 3.

The story is acted out via Xbox controller, with a metal-faced behemoth portraying Apollo. Instead of shooting arrows, he squeezes off rounds from a machine gun. After one particularly violent sequence, the game announces: “Triple Kill!”

Tiago

The Play’s The Thing Brooklyn, New York 21

This is the tale of “Niobe and Her Children” from Ovid’s Metamorphoses. And it might be theater’s future.

Back onstage the recorded voice of 15-year-old Maxime Olshan-Cantin recounts the story of Niobe, a mortal woman in ancient Greece who insults the goddess Leto, angering her son Apollo. He climbs a hill, ﬁery arrows in tow, and begins picking off Niobe’s children one by one. You don’t talk about Apollo’s mother.

Rio de Janeiro

ABOVE IT ALL

Primo and his younger brother Gabriel spent much of the summer relaxing on a cushy orange chair, napping in a hammock, playing video games and enjoying leisurely lunches (ham and cheese sandwiches, mostly). Their lifestyle might have been the envy of slackers everywhere were it not for one key detail: They did it all suspended from a wall 30 feet above a hectic street in Rio.

The evening concludes more with a whimper than a bang. “It’s a bit like commiserating with the family at a funeral,” observes a fan after the actors disappear into the night. “After all, Ernest Hemingway has just died, and so has the show.”— PAUL EWING

“Sometimes the audience is confused, but we want that,” says Eddie Kim, the 31-year-old head of the drama department at Connecticut’s Pierrepont School, who made the 90-minute drive to take part in “Game Play: A Celebration of Video Game Theater.”

James Graeme, who gamely portrayed the singing-anddancing author, seems to enjoy the attention, smiling sheepishly as one fan yells, “You’re ﬁnally free!”

It’s a muggy afternoon in Nashville’s 12South neighborhood, and the usual line has formed under the hot sun in the parking lot at the corner of Kirkwood and 12th, next to the Suite One Salon. There’s no sign indicating what these people have come for— unless you count a pile of multicolored sticks in a trash can—but the locals mostly know. A crowd of regulars sweats it out under the ﬁre escape of the two-story brick structure. Some appear a tad bleary-eyed—honky-tonk fans, by the look of things, just waking up. There are moms with antsy young kids in tow, ofﬁce workers on break, and a guy from New York who’s in town for a nursing convention. They’re all here for the same thing: popsicles.

Residents of Music City seem to have wholeheartedly adopted the custom. “Outside, the world is very complicated,” Irma says. “In here, everything’s simple.”

—PAM GROUT

22 Tokyo

A server nods approvingly as she passes with a tray of tea for a young couple on a ﬁrst date. “She’s the prettiest and often travel on business, and many apartments have no-pets policies, so animal companionship can be hard to come by. Enter cat cafés like Calico, where for just $10 a hour, patrons can sip tea and stroke one of the twentyodd exquisitely bred, docile felines padding around or curled up having a nap. The trend is growing: A bunny café recently opened its doors in Tokyo. Sounds like a cat ﬁght. MIMI HANAOKA girl we have at our café,” she tells the woman, who’s eyeing the white cat. “Everybody wants to pet her.” When it opened in March 2007, Calico was viewed as something of a curiosity. These days, it’s often booked to capacity on weekends, and business is brisk throughout the week. Dozens of similar establishments have opened their doors in Tokyo, Osaka andBeyondKyoto.a national love of cuteness, or kawaii—from Pokémon to Hello Kitty to Sony’s AIBO robotic dog—what accounts for the phenomenon? Many Japanese work long hours dispatches

The sisters were raised on paletas, as they’re known in Mexico. “They’re part of the daily diet, part of the culture,” says Irma Paz-Bernstein, a former news producer for Telemundo and Univision, who grew up in Guadalajara and shares blending, squeezing, chopping and pureeing duties with big sister Norma Paz-Curtis. “You stop by a paleteria after school, before Mass, again after Mass.”

“I chose to attend this convention solely to try these paletas,” notes Bunny, who discovered the popsicle shop, Las Paletas, and its proprietors, the Paz Sisters, on a foodie website. “My favorite so far is avocado, but they’re all sublime.”

In the four days he’s been here, the chalkboard has listed everything from mango and peanut butter to pineapple-chili, chocolate-wasabi, cucumberjalapeño, rose petal and prune.

Some Like it Nashville, Tennessee CAT FANCY

Cold

The nurse, who goes by the name A. Fuzzy Bunny (it checks out; he had it legally changed), cranes his neck, trying to get a peek through the window at the menu.

At the Calico cat café in Tokyo, an establishment devoted to the appreciation of man’s second-best friend, a smartly dressed Japanese businessman in his forties dangles a plush fuzzball over the impeccably clean carpeted floor with what looks like a miniature fishing rod. He coos, smiles and flicks the rod back and forth, trying to catch the eye of a sprightly snow-white member of the “feline staff.”

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

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Intrigue The Great Wall, the 2008 Olympics, Peking duck—those are the things that come to mind when you think of Beijing. Add romance to the list, thanks to a new luxury resort. An enchantment-themed retreat is now open on the northwest edge of the city. Aman at Summer Palace (the Aman luxury chain’s ﬁrst outpost in China) features idyllic quarters set around imperial-style courtyards, with new amenities including a movie theater and indoor lap pool tucked away underground. Through special arrangement with the government, the property has its own private entrance to the Summer Palace next door. The 250-year-old lakefront complex is where the last emperors retreated when temperatures soared. amanresorts.com/amanatsummerpalace/home.aspx

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009 25

Palacenews

TRUNK SHOW //

THE 10TH MUSE // Born out of an art-science curriculum at Harvard, new iPhone application MuseTrek takes the ho-hum out of museum tours via a social networking platform that helps visitors experience artwork through the eyes of someone else. Starting this month, trek through the Louvre—among other European museums—listening to commentary by an 11-year-old, a Hitchcock obsessive or a fashion junkie, or create your own. Expect treks at museums around the world by year’s end. musetrek.com

PARTY LIKE A ROCK STAR //

Celebs love The Setai in Miami Beach because it’s serene and exclusive. Regular folks like it because they feel like celebs there, and never more so than when they splurge on the Rock Star package. The three-night deal includes Veuve Clicquot upon arrival, airport pickup in a Range Rover and (here’s where the rock star really comes in) 12 hours in an onsite recording studio designed by Lenny Kravitz. The total cost is $6,000. Throwing your TV out the window is (deﬁnitely) not included. setai.com

Life-size technicolor elephants on the streets of Amsterdam? You’re not hallucinating: Dutch artists have painted pachyderm sculptures and placed them around town. Proceeds help Asian elephants. The pieces will be auctioned off on November 12, and you can buy miniatures—so you’ll never forget. elephantparade.com

OCTOBERCALENDAR

AUTO FOCUS // To the Batmobile! After that, take a look at the Scooby-Doo Mystery Machine and the General Lee from Dukes of Hazzard. The Picture Car Museum, the newest addition to the Warner Bros. Studio VIP Tour in Burbank, California, it puts you within inches of the actual vehicles used in the movies. warnerbros.com

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10-11 WAYNESVILLE, OHIO // The Ohio Sauerkraut Festival will supply seven tons of the German staple, along with crafts for sale and live music. You bring the antacids. sauerkrautfestival.com 14-29 LONDON // Unlike that snooty fest in Cannes, the Times BFI London Film Festival welcomes the hoi polloi. Though if you happen to bump into confirmed guests Meryl Streep or George Clooney, remember to say “Excuse me.” bfi.org.uk/lff 16 SAN FRANCISCO // Sniff, swirl and sip—no gulping!— more than 200 varieties of high-end firewater at the San Francisco WhiskyFest. maltadvocate.com 21-22 LAS VEGAS // The subject of Monopoly may be Atlantic City real estate, but the world championships are in Vegas, baby. Rich Uncle Pennybags will be there, and so will art inspired by the game. monopoly.com

8-11 NEW YORK CITY // Giada DeLaurentiis, Tom Colicchio, Paula Deen, Rachael Ray—the Food Network gang will be passing on their secrets at the New York City Wine and Food Festival. Plus: Dim Sum & Disco Brunch and Meatball Madness! nycwineandfoodfestival.com

12-14 HONOLULU // Grass-skirted hip-wigglers from all over ﬂock to the World Invitational Hula Festival—it’s as good a reason as any for a trip to Hawaii. worldhula.com

ABBEVILLE, LOUISIANA // The people of southwestern Louisiana know that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. That’s why they’ve made a 5,000-egg omelet every year since 1984. giantomelette.org

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HEY, YOU! // This month, Chicago’s Museum of Science and Industry welcomes “You! The Experience,” an exhibit on human biology comprising more than

23-25 LOS ANGELES // Economic woes got you down? If only you could turn lead into gold! Let the good folks at the International Alchemy Conference show you how. alchemyconference.com

MICHELIN MANUAL // Want to know where all the cool people are eating? Check the Michelin Guide. Their coveted stars are the Oscars of the culinary scene. This month, they release the 2010 New York Edition, plus guides for other major cities, and affordable dining. This year, the guides are also available as iPhone apps for $6.99 per city. michelinguide.com

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 28

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OCTOBERCALENDAR

NATIONAL TREASURE // Nothing inspires wanderlust quite as much as ﬂipping through an issue of National Geographic. So how about adding 120 years’ worth of issues to your DVD collection? Reading lists compiled by editors, photographers and featured stars will help you navigate the set, and a trivia game will keep it from collecting dust. It’s also available as a hard drive for those more inclined to sit in front of the computer than in front of the TV, and naturally there’s social networking support behind it. If nothing else, this set will allow you to clear those musty magazine stacks out of your basement. completenatgeo.com

ROWING ON THE RIVER // Boston’s Charles River has gotten a bit of a bad rep. (Perhaps you’ve heard “Dirty Water”?) Well, prepare to see another side of the River Chuck at the Head of the Charles Regatta. The largest two-day boat race in the world draws spectators and participants from all over. In addition to copious faceoffs, fried dough purveyors and trinkets for sale, the race tends to fall on the most gorgeous fall weekend of the year, so you can see for yourself what leaf-peeping is all about. hocr.org

30- NOVEMBER 1 NEW ORLEANS // You know what’s better than candy on Halloween? The Voodoo Experience music festival— where you can see Eminem, KISS and Gogol Bordello all in one place. thevoodooexperience.comSpooky 7-8

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OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 32 3. RADIO DAYS The Magno radio is handcrafted by Indonesian carpenters out of Moreharvestedsustainablywoods.importantly, it looks amazing. $250 / momastore.org 2. PEAR NECESSITY Sending a loved one roses is nice, but they won’t taste as good as a box of Harry & David’s famous Royal Riviera pears. $26 / harryanddavid.com 1. PROJECT AND SERVE Few innovations in the bloated world of digital cameras are worth noting. But the Nikon Coolpix’s built-in projector absolutely is. $430 / nikonusa.com 4. HELPING HAND Making espresso by hand has never been so easy. In fact, the Handpresso is the ﬁrst product designed to make it possible. $141 / handpresso.com goods 1 2 3 4

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35 DIRECTIONS | OCTOBER 2009

BEN KINGSLEY stars in Martin Scorsese’s upcoming thriller, Shutter Island

OUTLINEFACTOR/CORBISDAVISBYPHOTOGRAPH

“There’s a restaurant called the Alchymist that I always go to. Even if it’s been three or four years since my last visit, they’re very welcoming. I love Czech food, and the service is lovely. It’s a beautiful place in a wizardy way. I also really like U Patrona, near the Charles Bridge. You must go in the fall so you can walk across the Charles very slowly; in summer, it's too crowded.”

Places I Go: Ben Kingsley

“I’M NOT GOOD AT SIMPLY GOING ON HOLIDAY. I don’t enjoy being told what I’m looking at by a guide, however well-intentioned, and I can’t just stand and look at the beach. I have to be part of the landscape. I have to be engaged. I’ve done three films in Prague, and I find it very sustaining. It’s not like New York or L.A.—there’s so much history. The first time I went, it was to visit a friend who was working on a movie. I went for a long weekend and stayed right on the Vltava River. We were pretty high up, and I remember looking out over all those copper roofs that have turned green. A few years later, I went back to do a miniseries about Anne Frank. It was really something to come off the set and find myself still surrounded by all that history. My most recent holiday there was with my darling wife for New Year’s Eve, which is also my birthday, and we watched the fireworks over the Vltava.

The whereabouts

Leaving Stockholm without appreciating its art history is heresy. Take a cab to the Nationalmuseum (Södra Blasieholmshamnen, nationalmuseum.se) and check out some 17th century furniture; unlike some of Sweden’s more modern stuff, this was built to last. ( 5:00 ) OLIVER JEFFERS

Stockholm is best enjoyed by boat, so walk to Räntmästartrappan and board a ferry to Djurgården (Djurgardsfarjan, waxholmsbolaget.se). Take in the panoramic view as you cross the Riddarfjärden and think of all the tasty lax swimming below. ( 2:40 )

Stroll over to the Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet, Galärvarvsvägen 14, vasamuseet.se) and marvel at the impressive 17th century Viking ship. Sure, it’s a little beat up, but if you spent more than 300 years on the ocean ﬂoor, you would be too. ( 4:05 )

Head down to the pedestrian-friendly Drottninggatan on the way to Gamla stan, Stockholm’s historic old town. Pop into the H&M clothing store (you’re in its homeland, after all) on your way to the Royal Palace ( Slottsbacken 1, royalcourt.se ), where the only things more beautiful than the architecture are the guards. ( 1:45 ) Hungry again? Wow, you’re insatiable. Hop into Melanders Fisk Skeppsbron (Tullhus 2, melanders.se) for a Swedish classic like the rimmad lax med dillstuvad potatis (salmon with dill potatoes). ( 2:10 )

One block from Central Station, you’ll ﬁnd the Nordic Sea Hotel (Vasaplan 4, nordicseahotel.se), where you can slip on a cozy thermal cape and descend into the frigid Absolut Ice Bar to sip vodka from glasses made of ice and sit on chairs made of...ice. Pretty cool. ( 0:20 )

Once on the island of Djurgården, skip the garish amusement park and head straight to Skansen (Djurgårdsslätten 49-51, skansen.se), the world’s oldest open-air museum. Make a beeline for the zoo for a glimpse of Scandinavian wildlife and learn an important lesson: Reindeer can’t ﬂy. ( 3:25 )

Warm up with a brisk march over to Konditori Vete-Katten (Kungsgatan 55, vetekatten.se) for a midday ﬁka the Swedish custom of drinking coffee, socializing and eating sweets. Try the semla, a gooey almond paste and whipped cream–ﬁlled bun. Then try one more—you have time. ( 0:50 )

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Palm Tree Pendant with Diamonds$379 Matching Earrings available from $399 Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold Chain additional OAHU: Ala Moana Center Waikiki Beachwalk Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Lahaina Cannery The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) Hyatt Regency Maui Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIGISLANDOFHAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOSANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SANDIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SANFRANCISCO:Pier 39 SANJOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

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MIND THE GAP Patrick Robinson, left, and his denim

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009 39

TherapyJean

With a whole new demin line, Gap fashion bigwig Patrick Robinson is slinging the blues.

// BY SARAH HORNE

PATRICK ROBINSON, the Gap’s executive vice president of design, has classic casual down pat. “I’m an authentic, straight guy,” he says. He’s referring to his straight-leg pants, of course—a salient point given that he recently unveiled his brainchild, 1969 Premium Jeans, a line of denim a year and a half in the making that execs hope will breathe new life into the brand.

Reviving a storied public company comes with a lot of pressure, and Robinson, who has overseen Gap’s design since 2007, concedes that “starting from scratch with the denim is complicated.” Picking his own wardrobe? Not so much.

“I’ve worn Gap every day since I’ve started this job,” he laughs. “Even weekends! Everything on my body, even the socks and the underwear, are Gap. If there’s one person who thinks the brand is cool,” says Robinson, “it should be me.”

SARAH HORNE has vivid memories of trying to master the perfect peg-legged cuff on her ﬁrst pair of Gap jeans (circa 1989).

culture

ARTstyle

The designer, who earned his fashion stripes at Giorgio Armani and Perry Ellis, has brought new cred to what had become an increasingly out-of-touch label. “People know Gap the way they know Coca-Cola,” he says, sitting in his Chelsea office, clad in a ﬂannel shirt and dark jeans with a strategically placed hole above the knee. “My job has been to make the brand relevant again, to channel that affection people have and to get them in the stores.”

To that end, Robinson has gotten back to basics. “I don’t say, ‘This season it’s about robots,’ or fairy wings or Morocco.” Instead, he ﬁnds his inspiration closer to home. “There are these little neighborhoods all over America, in San Francisco or Minneapolis. Young people starting little businesses and building communities—doing things with purpose. This is not the one percent of the one percent who are buying couture.” Making Gap meaningful to these people, says Robinson, is all about keeping his eyes open. “How does America want to dress now?” The answer, it seems, is for $69 or less. As with most things Gap, the new look is basic, the denim soft, the rivets copper (and one blue one on each pair of pants, but that’s about as wild as it gets).

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ALSO THIS MONTH What else to listen to on the go in October

This lanky Texan’s latest cold-oneeffortlessoffering—anblendofoldcountry,gospelandragtime—exhibitsthedarkdepthofTownesVanZandt,thegrowlygritofSteveEarleandthepop-open-a-vibeofHankWilliamsIII. Straight outta the Poconos, McKay deploys her coquettish voice and bizarro lyrics to evoke a sort of rap-singing cabaretin-space, complete with virtuoso ukulele. Somehow, combined with the songs of Doris Day, it works. This massive, 90-CD box set and 312-page thecomprisecompanionhardcoverbookacollectionofthecellist'scareersocomplete(and,at$789,sopricey)thatit'sprobablyonlyformostinsatiableofMr.Ma’sfans.

SHOWBIZ MYTH NO. 3: Rock stars don’t keep the same hours as the rest of us. Mythbuster? It’s just shy of 2 p.m. in bucolic upstate New York, and bassist/ singer/songwriter Meshell Ndegeocello is preparing lunch at her home after several hours of rehearsal for an upcoming tour. Practice has gone well, and Ndegeocello and her band are buoyant—especially considering they started practice around the time most of us are hitting the snooze bar. “We had work to do,” Ndegeocello explains, her husky voice deepening even further, feigning seriousness before breaking into a chuckle. “Believe me, I’m quite capable of sleeping all day,Still,too.”the rehearsal schedule adds yet another (thin) layer to Ndegeocello’s mystique. She has spent two decades keeping audiences guessing about everything from her sexuality (album title from 2007: The World Has Made Me the Man of My Dreams) to what sort of artist she really is. Ndegeocello scored a hit single with a duet with John Mellencamp back in 1994 (a raucous cover of Van Morrison’s “Wild Night”), but since then she’s ﬂitted between genres, from the grooveoriented autobiography of 1999’s Bitter to the instrumental jazz of 2005’s

“There have been times when I’ve considered not making any more records, just to be rid of this whole music industry process of categorization,” she confesses. “What keeps me doing it is how much I enjoy the process of making something that people can listen to forever, no matter what the style of musicNdegeocellois.” feels Devil’s Halo, her latest disc, is yet another departure from previous efforts, not so much musically as lyrically. “It’s not as autobiographical,” she says, referring to her signature frankness about lovesickness, promiscuity and spiritual awakening. “I see these songs more as people-watching, which I’ve been doing a lot of when I’m at my apartment in Brooklyn.”Perhapsthe piece that’s closest to her heart is the dreamy cover of the ’80s R&B group Ready for the World’s slow jam, “Let Me Love You Down.” “It’s a favorite from childhood, and there’s a real drama about transcending age differences in dating,” she says. “It’s cool that it’s about the lyrics as well as the beat. You can either nod your head to the music or check out the story.”

Neo-soul pioneer Meshell Ndegeocello is one of the great riddles in R&B music today. Her newest album, Devil’s Halo, provides a couple of clues.

The Spirit Music Jamia: Dance of the Inﬁdel.

// BY K. LEANDER WILLIAMS

Brooklyn-based writer K. LEANDER WILLIAMS burns the candle at one end.

The Early Riser

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ACEVEDO Something Old, Something New vision

// PHOTOGRAPH BY

WHEN SHE WAS JUST THREE years old, Julia Louis-Dreyfus strategically placed several raisins in her nose and made two startling discoveries. One: She liked making people laugh. Two: Raisins don’t go in noses. “I sucked them in too hard after making my mom laugh, and we had to go to the emergency room,” she says. More than 40 years later, LouisDreyfus’ comedic technique has matured considerably. Though she’s still a master of slapstick, she’s better known for her indelible portrayals of highly neurotic women—from Elaine Benes, her frantic Upper West Side editor on Seinfeld, to Christine Campbell, the frazzled suburban divorcée she plays on The New Adventures of Old Christine But this fall, when the cast of Seinfeld reunites on HBO’s Curb Your Enthusiasm, she’ll play a more challenging character: herself. She spoke with Hemispheres about her latest adventure. How is it you’re so good at playing a hapless divorcée when your own life (22year marriage, two sons, two successful sitcoms) is so perfect? Well, ﬁrst of all, nothing’s perfect. In fact, I’m miserable.… I’m kidding! Actually, I’m the product of a divorced family, so I know the world of divorce well. Do you draw on that to play Christine? Yes. And the show’s not just about divorce; it’s about being a working mother, which I am. I’m a working mom who’s trying to do the right things and failing very frequently. The anxiety about failing is ever-present, so that’s an easy thing to tap into. On the show you run into failure quite often. If things worked out for Christine, we would be in the drama category. So how will Christine embarrass herself this season? Well, Barb, played by the sublime Wanda Sykes, is going to be deported to the Bahamas. I try to retrieve her and it turns into a whole mess with 42 Now appearing in her ﬁfth year on The New Adventures of Old Christine, Julia Louis-Dreyfus is reuniting with the Seinfeld crew for the new season of Curb Your Enthusiasm. As Elaine would say, “Get out!”

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND MELANIE

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In theaters October 28 When the computeranimated Astro Boy movie comes out this month, we’ll be watching the original Japanese anime instead. With its heartfelt stories of human and robot interaction, it’s easy to see why Astro Boy became the Mickey Mouse of Japan. On DVD October 6 Anvil! The Story of Anvil Astro Boy: The Beginning This Is It What else to watch on the go in October ALSO THIS MONTH vision

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ADAM K. RAYMOND will be watching, if he can ﬁnd the remote. “If things worked out for Christine, we’d be in the drama category.” This pudgier,Canadiandocumentarycompellingstrangelyfollowsthehard-lucklifeofAnvil,anobscureheavymetalbandthat’sshreddedinobscuritysincethe’70s.Anvil’smembersmaybebalderandbutthatdoesn’tstoptheheadbanging.

On DVD October 6 As he moonwalked his way through his ﬁnal touchinggivenfamilyofwasstillMichaelrehearsals,Jacksondancedlikeit1985.FootagethosemovesandinterviewswithhisandfriendsarethedocumentarytreatmentinthiseulogytoM.J.

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED .C OM

44 lost passports, etc. We also have Eric McCormack guest-starring for a few episodes as my psychiatrist and potential romantic interest. So it’s very conflicted and ugly. Those are just a couple little snippets. I read that the show’s writers have challenged themselves to cook up something so humiliating that you refuse to do it. Have they succeeded? Not yet. But we’re about to start shooting the new season, so it’s still possible. They might succeed, but I’m always willing to give something a shot if it gets a laugh. The idea of the Seinfeld reunion is that it's actually taking place within the context of Curb Your Enthusiasm, the series based around the life of Seinfeld cocreator Larry David. It's all a little bit mind-boggling. What else can you tell us about doing that show? Not much. Larry said he will shoot me, and I take him very seriously. But I can tell you that it was a surreal experience and an enormous amount of fun. Did you ever think you guys would get back together? Never. But when Larry called I said, “Oh, well, that makes sense.” The show within the show idea is a cool way of doing it. Any other way, it’s not cool. Reuniting in the old for mat would have… ...It would have been depressing! But this, well, I hope it’s not depressing. Is shooting Curb different from what you’re used to? Well, it’s improvised. So you go into a scene knowing the beats you have to hit, but beyond that you’re kind of riding bareback. Is that any easier or harder? Just different. You have to exercise different muscles in the brain. But I do adore it. You’re said to be notoriously foulmouthed. Since Curb is on HBO, you can finally let loose, right? Heck yes, every other word is [a swear word]. Not something CBS is very keen on? They’re not keen on it, and I’m guessing Hemispheres isn’t very keen on it either. Let’s abruptly change the subject. What are the biggest differences between Old Christine and Seinfeld. There’s a lot more work for me to do because it’s my show. Because of that, it’s also more female-oriented. Our executive producer is a woman too, so the point of view and the sensibility are very different from Seinfeld. And having done TV for many, many years, I certainly know more now than I did way back in nineteen-ninetywhatever-it-was. Long ago. Yeah! God almighty. When did we start that show? Eighty-nine to ninety-eight, I think that’s what is was. That would make it 20 years this year. Ugggggh Even after all that time, do people still call you Elaine? It’s like sixty-forty Elaine. Christine is catching up, though. Does it bother you? Not at all. The truth is, either one is fine because it’s a great gift to be connected to a character that people recognize. It means they’re watching, and I dig that. That’s a problem you ran into with your last show, Watching Ellie. No one seemed to be watching. Yeah, but I remain very, very proud of Watching Ellie. Frankly, I think it was ahead of its time. It was a single-camera show before singlecamera shows were popular, and it had a great premise. The idea of doing a show in real time was really a challenge to the writers and actors. It was obviously a big disappointment when it got canceled, but now I’m making Old Christine, which I love totally and completely. Why do you think this show has been such a success? A couple reasons. First of all, it’s very well written. When it comes to comedy you can’t fake funny. It’s also a fresh take on the American family—a divorced couple that’s trying to remain civil and raise a child in two different households. People can relate to Thethat.New Adventures of Old Christine premiered September 23 on CBS and Curb Your Enthusiasm September 20 on HBO.

Opening October 2009

The future of cancer care will soon open its doors.

The culmination of 60 years of advanced cancer research and treatment is soon to become a reality. Smilow Cancer Hospital at Yale-New Haven. It will be the most comprehensive cancer facility in New England. And it will be the most patient friendly, with inpatient and outpatient treatment facilities together in one building, along with a rooftop healing garden. For thousands more cancer patients and their families, cancer care is not only inﬁnitely more promising, it’s going to be inﬁnitely easier to attain. To learn more, visit Yale-New Haven Hospital is the primary teaching hospital of Yale School of Medicine and is ranked among the nation’s best hospitals by U.S.News & World Report. Smilow Cancer Hospital at Yale-New Haven works in partnership with Yale Cancer Center –A National Cancer Institute-designated Comprehensive Cancer Center.

DOREE SHAFRIR is a New York–based freelance writer who rarely ventures out during daylight. Garlic, anyone? As two new books—not to mention the latest Twilight movie—make clear, vampire lit is the genre that will never die.

There Will Be Blood

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED .C OM

“IT’S NOT SO EASY being a vampire,” says Otto Penzler, owner of New York City’s Mysterious Bookshop and the editor of the new anthology The Vampire Archives (Vintage, $25). “It’s not all blood and roses.” Penzler should know. In The Vampire Archives, out this month, he’s compiled an exhaustive collection of vampire lit from what he calls the “Pre-Dracula” era (Edgar Allan Poe, Ambrose Bierce) to “Modern Masters” (Ray Bradbury, Peter Tremayne). Along the way he checks in with everyone from Guy de Maupassant, Arthur Conan Doyle and D.H. Lawrence to Bram Stoker, author of vampire touchstone Dracula. Penzler’s 1,056-page tome will undoubtedly find a receptive audience. Tales of bloodsuckers have won legions of devoted readers since the Victorian era. In recent years, Stephenie Meyer’s blockbuster Twilight Saga, a series of four books originally targeted at teenagers, has proven that even a stake through the heart wouldn’t be enough to kill this genre. (The books have sold more than 40 million copies; the second film in the series, The Twilight Saga: New Moon, opens next month.) Meanwhile, The CW just premiered The Vampire Diaries, and HBO continues to gorge on True Blood, currently its most popular offering. In that series, vampires and humans are learning to coexist due to the invention of synthetic blood, which seems fitting for a culture in which social relationships are increasingly virtual. As sci-fi and fantasy writer Neil Gaiman writes in the introduction to The Vampire Archives, “We get the vampires we deserve.”Meanwhile, Dacre Stoker takes a more traditional approach in Dracula the Un-Dead (Dutton, $26.95), also out this month. A sequel to the most famous vampire novel of all, it’s based on the notes of his great-granduncle Bram. The story begins in 1912, a quarter century after Dracula’s “death,” when the team of vampire hunters who “killed” him begin dropping one by one. Will vampire tales ever die? Perhaps not, but one master seems to have slaked her thirst for the genre. Interview with the Vampire author Anne Rice left bloodsuckers behind years ago and just released the first book in her new series...about angels.

What if happiness and goodness are genetically determined? That’s the premise of Richard Powers’ luminous novel, in which a young Algerian withcaptivatesimmigrantateacherherunaccountablyopenheartednature.Afterageneticscientistgetsinvolved,thenewsmediapounces.

BY DOREE SHAFRIR

A.S. Byatt offers up a spellbinding new novel that follows Olive Wellwood, a children's book author and expert in fairy tales who introduces a talented runaway to her privileged social circle. Set in England in the decades before the First World War, it brings the era grippingly to life. print

I Am The New Black The Children’s Book Generosity, an Enhancement ALSO THIS MONTH What else to read on the go in October Tracy Morgan of Saturday Night Live and 30 Rock fame ﬁnally gets serious—but not too serious—in his new memoir. bothalcohol,andhishisrelatesactor-comedianThethestoryofroughupbringing,overnightsuccesshisstruggleswithdemonstratinguncommoncandorandunfailingwit.

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“Everybody is connected to bread somehow—through religion or a memory or a family tradition. I thought it would be cool if we could get people to start sharing that bread with others.”

•

“Everybody is connected to bread somehow—through religion or a memory or a family tradition.”

NAME • KAREN KIEFER, 49 MISSION Delivering happiness to strangers via homemade bread. When Karen Kiefer taught her mother’s Irish soda bread recipe to her daughters, they baked way more than they could eat, so they handed out the surplus loaves to neighbors. It was so much fun, they did it again this time packaging loaves with friendly messages and delivering them to homeless shelters and churches in their hometown of Wayland, Massachusetts. Soon, other families broke out their bread pans, and Spread the Bread was born. The Kiefers’ driveway now serves as a collection and distribution point for vast varieties of baked goods, and Kiefer coordinates efforts elsewhere in the world via email. Recipients include the homeless, ﬁrst responders, the elderly, soldiers abroad and anyone else in need of a little gratitude or hope.

FABULOUS BAKER GIRLS Kiefer with daughters, from left, Madison, 13; McKenna, 14; and Rose, 8. Emma, 11, was at camp.

Wonder Bread

•

The third annual Million Bread Bake, an effort to surpass one million loaves, started on September 11 and runs until New Year’s Day. Last year, the effort tallied a whopping 733,203 loaves. Kiefer’s driveway must be huge. Visit spreadthebread.org to download a starter kit.

•

FAVORITE RECIPE “One of my favorites is cantaloupe bread. It tastes just like a wildly delicious and moist carrot cake.”

MOTIVATION

CULTURE | OCTOBER 2009 49hero

Massachusetts mom Karen Kiefer started baking bread for those in need of cheer. Now, Spread the Bread is on the rise. BY JONATHAN VATNER // PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID CICCONI

ISLES OF THE NORTH AEGEAN Lastly, sail north up the Aegean to explore the Sporades (including Skiathos, Skopelos and Skyros), and the northeast Aegean islands. Among these you’ll ﬁnd Limnos, characterised by black rocks and steep mountains, and Lesvos, Greece’s third largest island famed for exquisite ouzo, oils and cheeses. But there’s still much more to discover…

Paradise Stunning cupolas with the Caldera (volcano) in the distance on the Greek island of Santorini – one of the 39 CycladesVenetianIslandsHarbour at night with restaurants, Rethymno, Crete Myrtos Beach in Kefalonia

The tiny, picture-perfect isles of Hytra, Aegina, Poros and Spetses are just a short boat ride from the Greek capital. With a sheltered position and

FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.GNTO.GR

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

DODECANESE These isles are a sun-drenched crossing point of seas and strong winds, off the southeastern tip of Greece. Visit Lipsi for white-sand beaches or Leros with its deep, natural harbours. Stop at Kos to go mountain trekking or Rhodes for nightlife.

CYCLADES

OFTHEEXPERIENCEISLANDSGREECE

CRETE Crete is the largest Greek island of all, with a varied coastline of secluded bays and steep, rocky cliffs, as well as cosmopolitan resorts. The marinas at Heraklion, Aghios Nikolaos and Rethymno make excellent bases. Keep binoculars ready to spot sperm whales, which inhabit the waters here year-round.

Discover the unspoilt bays of Kefalonia, or the secluded sea-caves of Paxos reachable only by boat Everybody must explore the hundreds of beautiful Greek Islands at least once during their lifetime... mild climate, they’re the ideal weekend getaway for Athenians.

Our nautical journey begins in the Ionian Sea, and its famous islands lining the west coast of Greece. Discover the unspoilt bays of Kefalonia, or the secluded sea-caves of Paxos reachable only by boat. Off Zakynthos, keep an eye out for native sea turtles.

ARGOSARONIKOS SEA

A fusion of stone, sunlight and shining sea, the Cyclades lie to the east of the Peloponnese. They stretch as far as Samos and Ikaria to the east. The poet Odysseas Elytis described their peculiar volcanic formations as “stone horses with rampant manes”.

IONIAN SEA

T he extraordinary beauty of the Greek islands awaits. Sparkling seas, endless sunshine and vivid landscapes… Greece is the perfect destination to explore by sea.

BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE BY PAUL BLOW

ONE WINTER EVENING in 2003, twentysomething New Yorkers Michael Kirban and Ira Liran were cutting loose in a Manhattan bar, enjoying a few cocktails, eyeing the ladies. The childhood pals—Kirban had started a software company; Liran, a marketer, was between jobs—sidled up to a pair of pretty Brazilian expats. They wanted to know what the women missed most about their homeland. The beaches? The wildlife? The waxes? “Agua de coco,” the women replied; the water inside young coconuts, which Brazilians drink “practically from birth” and revere as the most delicious and nutritious drink in the world. At the time, the United States was in the throes of a specialty-beverage boom, with customers clamoring for “functional” drinks with ambitious names—SmartWater, Rockstar, Guru— and lofty promises of healthier, brainier, sexier lives. Looking into coconut water, Kirban and Liran learned it would ﬁt in to the category quite nicely: An 11-ounce serving (roughly one coconut’s worth of water, which is not to be confused with coconut milk, which is derived from the meat of the fruit) has more potassium than two bananas and 15 times more electrolytes than the average sports drink. With no fat or added sugar, it averages a mere 60 calories. It was also more rehydrating than anything on the market and, they discovered through diligent testing, a pretty decent hangoverCoconutﬁx.water was, as the women noted, wildly popular south of the equator, but in the United States it remained largely unavailable. Latin food distributor Goya sold it to bodegas and ethnic groceries, but the company added a preservative and packaged it in a can, which didn’t do much for the taste—already somewhat metallic—or the aesthetic appeal. Kirban and Liran envisioned coconut water in its natural On the Water Front How did coconut water become the trendy new miracle beverage? In a nutshell—shrewd marketing.

51industry

CULTURE | OCTOBER 2009

// ILLUSTRATION

ALYSSA GIACOBBE writes for In Style, Nylon, Men’s Health and Boston Magazine. She takes her coconut water on the rocks, with salt. Yoga fanatics obsess over Zico, but don’t let that scare you. It’s fresh-tasting and has twoandﬂavors—mangopassionfruit.

Vita Coco reports that sales have increased at least 200 percent annually, with 2008 revenues hitting $6 million and 2009 revenues predicted to reach $20 million. Every year since launching, Zico has doubled sales, and O.N.E. has tripled them. “Coconut water is one of our fastest-growing beverage segments, especially over the past year,” says Perry Abbenante, global grocery buyer for Whole Foods, which stocks all the brands nationwide. “All three are promoting heavily at retail, and we’ve seen sales increases in the triple digits. Customers are responding veryWhilepositively.”eachcompany attributes its success to an increased interest in healthy living, coconut water brands have something else going for them: the American obsession with the latest and greatest. “The beverage industry lives off of new things happening,” says Harry Balzer, chief industry analyst at market research company NPD and author of Eating Patterns in America. This particular trend, as he sees it, is less about the popularity of coconut water than the enduring appeal of plain old water. “Bottled water—and the fact that we’d be willing to pay for it—was the biggest change the beverage industry has ever seen,” he says. “And along the way there grew a segment that will always be looking for the new version of that.” As the awareness of coconut water grows, the three brands are rapidly moving beyond natural-foods and specialty markets into more conventional supermarkets and other arenas. Last month, Vita Coco launched an exclusive partnership with airport candy and drink chain The Grove, which has stands in 50 airports across the U.S. It’s now sold in corner convenience stores in most major cities, thanks in part, says Kirban, to ﬂavored versions like mango-peach and pomegranate-açai that appeal to those of us with more “mainstream” tastes. Zico is aligning itself with Bikram yoga, a practice that takes place in 105-degree heat. Rampolla says that he’s worked hard to cultivate a “feeling of relaxation and replenishment on a psychological level.”

For all the new adherents out there singing the praises of coconut waters, the poster child for the elixir’s powers may be Vita Coco’s Liran. The Brazilian hottie he met in the bar? He married her.

Which coconut water is for you?

state and, anticipating the bottled-water backlash, packaged in eco-friendly containers.Sixyears later, Kirban and Liran’s brand of coconut water, Vita Coco, is sold in more than 10,000 stores across the United States. The competition, unsurprisingly, has increased, and Vita Coco now shares what has become a multimillion-dollar market with two top rivals: Zico, founded in 2004 by New Jersey native Mark Rampolla, and O.N.E., founded in 2005 by Brazilianborn Rodrigo Veloso. The differences between the waters are slight—after all, each company deals in the same product, extracted directly from coconuts—but they’ve carefully targeted different segments of the market: Zico the yogis, runners and triathletes; O.N.E. the healthy eaters, moms, and the occasional celebrity (Gisele Bündchen is a fan, they’re happy to note); and Vita Coco the younger, workhard, play-hard types, who might enjoy what its website calls a “hydration vacation” where “bikinis are optional.”

TESTING THE WATERS

“We’ve seen sales increases in the triple digits.”

A consistent taste test winner, O.N.E. comes in a and,metallicfashionablebluebox,bonus,it’sGiseleBündchen’sfavorite. The industry leader, Vita Coco is also the easiest to fnd at a convenience store near you. O.N.E. VITA COCOZICO “Coconut water is our fastest-growing beverage segment,” says a rep for Whole Foods.

52 OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.C OM

O.N.E. makes a big deal about giving back and recently launched O.N.E. Water, a spring water packaged in a paper carton. The proﬁts, says Veloso, will go to charity. “Education campaigns have been crucial,” adds Veloso, whose company regularly stages demos and samplings at locations throughout the country. For instance, Manhattan’s Crush Wine & Spirits shop recently held a blind tasting for those occasions when you “need something even more crisp than muscadet.” Vita Coco, meanwhile, has deployed splashy vans decorated with beach scenes and no fewer than 2,000 real green coconuts. They prowl the streets of New York, Boston, Miami and Los Angeles, blaring reggae music and braking for dehydrated passersby. All those efforts are clearly paying off, with increasing numbers of consumers happy to spend up to $3 per 11.2-ounce carton of the stuff.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

Our growing love for sushi spells doom for popular selections like blueﬁ n tuna. A new movement preaching tasty alternatives might save them from oblivion—but will the customer bite?

BY JANE BLACK // ILLUSTRATION BY RODRIGO CORRAL

The Fish

MY DATE TONIGHT, Trevor Corson, arrives early at Washington, D.C.’s Sushiko to have a little talk with the chef. There will be a few rules for our dinner. Specifically, no eel. No salmon. And definitely no tuna. The chef is puzzled. Those are the Big Three. Tuna, salmon and eel are the most popular items at every sushi bar. But then, Corson isn’t your average diner. He’s a sushi concierge, a personal valet for aficionados who want an authentic sushi experience, and I’ve asked him to help me navigate the waters of what’s known as sustainable sushi. Historically, the tradition of sushi has shown great respect for the ocean, Corson explains, as I sample a bit of orange clam dusted with truffle salt. But now the silky bluefin tuna we prize has been fished almost to extinction. And the salmon and eel in restaurants, delis and grocery stores generally come from farms that environmentalists charge breed disease and damage the oceans. Corson is careful not to preach—he still recommends the Big Three to some clients—but his message is clear: To be an authentic sushi consumer, you need to be a responsible one. It is well reported that the oceans, 55 once considered inexhaustible, are now in a global state of crisis. Half of all fish stocks monitored by the U.N. are already fully exploited, according to the Marine Stewardship Council. More crucially, when it comes to our presentday sushi craving, the World Wildlife Fund warns that if fishing practices don’t change, the Atlantic bluefin tuna faces extinction by 2012. And the only way to change fishing practices is to rethink the way we eat fish, especially sushi. In other words: Say sayonara to your toro nigiri. Here’s the good news: Sustainable alternatives to the Big Three are getting food&drink Less Eaten

In January, Trenor—who helped the Monterey Bay Aquarium develop wallet cards that consumers can consult before ordering—published a book, Sustainable Sushi: A Guide to Saving the Oceans One Bite at a Time. A year earlier, he had opened Tataki as an experiment designed to prove that sustainable sushi was both possible and proﬁtable. Nothing on the menu at Tataki is environmentally harmful. Instead of farmed salmon, there’s arctic char. Instead of yellowtail, there’s amberjack. Trenor even banned farmed tuna, since most are adults plucked from the ocean, where they might otherwise mate.

When a chef explained to one diner why he was no longer serving tuna, she was dismissive:

food & drink OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 1970197519801985199019952005 YEAR 20,00010,000 CAUGHTTONSMETRIC 80,00070,00060,00050,00040,00030,00090,000

CHANGE YOUR TUNA Since 1970, stocks of bluefin have dwindled to catastrophic levels.

In Portland, Oregon, Bamboo Sushi serves ﬁsh with a Marine Stewardship Council stamp of approval. The council okays sea creatures including haddock, halibut, hake and herring (and that’s just the H’s). Sustainable sushi should be an obvious next step for eco-conscious consumers who regularly shop at farmers markets and scour restaurant menus for words like “line-caught,” “heirloom” and “heritage breed.” However, says Corson, “somehow when people eat sushi, the rules don’t apply.”

“It’s their own fault for tasting so good.”

At San Francisco’s Tataki Sushi & Sake Bar, patrons stand in line for as long as two hours for the restaurant’s famous “faux-nagi,” sableﬁsh seared and brushed with a sweet, sultry sauce that mimics the taste of the ever-popular (but unsustainable) unagi, or eel.

Farming actually increases pressure on wild fish stocks. Most customers support the change, says Bamboo’s head chef, Brandon Hill, but not all. When he recently explained to one diner why he was no longer serving tuna, she was dismissive. “She said it was their own fault for tasting so good,” Hill says. Some call sustainable sushi a fad. Hill disagrees. “Something has to be done, or I’m going to be out of work in fifteenSustainableyears.” sushi evangelists are spreading the word. Last month, Trenor helped chef Hajime Sato remake the menu at his 15-year-old Seattle restaurant, Mashiko. Caroline Bennett, founder of London’s Moshi Moshi and Soseki restaurants, formed Pisces Responsible Fish Restaurants, a nonprofit that helped devise an ad campaign with celebs like Greta Scacchi and director Terry Gilliam posing naked to raise awareness about the plight of the bluefin (more power to them, right?). Sting, Charlize Theron and Sienna Miller have publicly boycotted glitzy Japanese restaurant Nobu, which continues to serve bluefin tuna. (To its credit, Nobu has a warning on its menu: “Bluefin tuna is an environmentally threatened species. Please ask your server for an alternative.”)

Tataki cofounder Casson Trenor has a theory about why sushi gets an environmental pass: Those glistening jewel-colored rectangles just don’t look like ﬁsh. “There’s a disconnect there. No one knows where sushi comes from,” Trenor says. “And if you don’t know that, how can you make good decisions about sustainability?”

Tasty though the Big Three may be, they aren’t irreplaceable. Back at Sushiko, Corson and I take up a set of chopsticks and attack a roll of creamy spot prawns topped with shiso leaf and perfectly poached lobster. Afterward, we plow through briny sea urchin. By now, I’ve forgotten all about blueﬁn tuna. Come to think of it, this menu seems eminently sustainable. Despite her love of the sea, Washington Post staff writer and sushi fanatic JANE BLACK will dearly miss toro nigiri.

easier to ﬁnd—and tastier. At Moshi Moshi, a chain of sushi bars in London, diners can opt for eco-dishes like seabass sashimi and prawn nigiri.

Many sushi chefs remain skeptical. Some view themselves as artists and, naturally, don’t want to give up the ruby-colored canvas of blueﬁn tuna. Others claim they’re merely giving the customers what they want.

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TURN, TURN, TURN Grönholm negotiates one of the course’s many switchbacks.

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Higher Power With 156 blind turns and dizzying drops, the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb is one of racing’s toughest challenges. Superstar driver Marcus Grönholm aims to set a new course record—on his very ﬁrst try.

// BY KELLY BASTONE

So today, less than 24 hours before the race, Grönholm pilots a Ford Flex SUV slowly up Pikes Peak’s steep, snarled curves for a final “walk-through” of the course. He motors past wind-raked high-country grasses and boulder fields. Meanwhile, in the passenger seat, codriver Timo Alanne recites the features of each of the road’s twists, switchbacks and straightaways, like a tutor drilling a student for a physics final. Any student would be anxious about this test, where the penalty for braking a split second too late is a long swan dive

MARCUS GRÖNHOLM doesn’t look nervous, but he probably should be. The gravel road beyond his steering wheel disappears into the clouds, so he can’t see the next hairpin turn or the sheer 2,000-foot drop just beyond. And though he’s a veteran racer, a two-time World Rally Champion and one of the best wheelmen in the world, he’s a rookie at the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb. Yesterday’s practice run up through 156 precarious corners was his ﬁrst time on the course and nearly his last: As he was speeding into a turn, the hood of his turbocharged, 800-horsepower Ford Fiesta came unlatched and ﬂipped up onto the windshield, obscuring everything except the milky Colorado fog in the side window.

CULTURE | OCTOBER 2009 59

“Poof!”way.Grönholm

CLIMB;HILLINTERNATIONALPEAKPIKESOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

BLUE SKY // 10,560 FT. GLENN COVE // 11,440 FT. DEVIL’S PLAYGROUND // 12,780 FT. BOULDER PARK // 13,380 FT. UPPER GRAVEL PIT // 13,060 FT. BOTTOMLESS PIT // 12,760 FT. ELK PARK // 11,900 FT. HALFWAY PICNIC GROUNDS // 9,960 FT. N FINISH LINE // 14,000 FT. START LINE // 9,390 FT.

PEAKING EARLY From above, the ﬁrst sidecar; Jerry Unser in 1957; Michele Mouton in 1985; spectators in the ’30s prize in mind: hot chocolate and donuts. He’d read in a guide book that the summit concession has top-notch pastries, so he and Alanne happily join the long line. After all, the driver officially retired from racing after the 2007 season, and competing on Pikes Peak is his version of a vacation—one he’s hoping will make him the fastest driver ever to reach this cloud-piercing summit.

MCLEODKAGANBYILLUSTRATION into a sea of rocks. Last year’s race was delayed by 14 serious accidents, and one participant was ﬂown by helicopter to a nearby hospital. For his part, the lanky Finn is his usual stoic self today, if a bit cheerful in a somewhat macabre sort of exclaims as he removes one hand from the wheel to mimic a car launching off the road and into the Reachingabyss.the 14,000-foot summit, which is thick with clouds and tourists, Grönholm unfolds himself from the Flex and smears the toe of his racing boot across the loose grit on the ground. He’d hoped for some rain to tamp down the dust and make the course tacky enough to yield a new speed record. The Japanese racer Nobuhiro Tajima clocked 10:01 in 2007, and since then everyone has been trying to break the 10-minute mark.

PIKES PEAK IS A LEGENDARY RACE, the second-oldest in America after the Indianapolis 500 and a feather every off-road racer would like in his cap. Part of its mystique is the road’s breathtaking implausibility. Hacked into the rugged rocky mountainside in 1915, Pikes Peak Highway is the brainchild of Spencer Penrose, who owned the grand Broadmoor Hotel at the foot of the mountain. To celebrate the road’s completion, he hosted a race to the top the following summer. Since then, the Hill Climb has drawn the world’s best drivers. At the mountain’s height, engines lose 30 percent of their power, drivers’ reﬂexes grow sluggish, and snow and hail are commonplace, even in July. All great races have their unique demands: Baja has sand, Rally Finland murderously

Now, though, Grönholm has another high speeds. Here, the challenge is altitude. And those brutal turns. Racing is in Grönholm’s blood: His father, Ulf, was one of Finland’s top drivers, and his Finnish countrymen have long dominated the sport of rally racing. One of the most famous carracing movies ever made, Climb Dance, captured Finnish driver Ari Vatanen as he drifted around Pikes Peak’s dusty corners in a Peugeot, his tires tracking mere feet from the road’s fearsome dropoff. (Remarkably, only three drivers have died in the race’s 92yearWhenhistory.)Grönholm’s friend, four-time Swedish Rally champion Andreas Eriksson, asked him to come out of retirement and join a Pikes Peak assault, the feisty Finn couldn’t say no. It’s a risky move. He’s a little rusty and, at 41, a tad old for such a tough race. “If the driver makes a mistake here, Oy! Oy! Oy!” says Grönholm, shaking his head at TURN PIKE Racers climb 4,720 feet and turn 156 times

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.C OM 60 sports

AT 7 A.M. ON RACE DAY, Grönholm stands in the pit sipping a bottle of water. He’s got a cowboy’s build, tall and lanky, with a hard-edged jaw and long legs that propel him quickly along without ever seeming hurried. Next door, Tajima sits in his car, waiting. Grönholm’s Fiesta is splayed open beside Eriksson’s, like a patient on an operating table, as the white-shirted engineers bustle about. They’ve worked through the night, tweaking both vehicles, and now they look haggard.

SKID MARCUS Grönholm‘s Ford Fiesta is fitted with an oversize wing to counter the thin air near the summit. Grönholm slides into his racing seat, buckles his harness and straps on his helmet. He revs his engine to the redline, then slams it into gear. All four tires spin and the Fiesta rockets forward. He has no clue how fast he’s going—there’s no speedometer—but as he whips around the first corner, the raw acceleration sends a shiver through the crowd. A helicopter shadows him from above, filming Peak Performance an homage to 1989’s Climb Dance He hits all his turns perfectly, Alanne calling commands into his microphone from the passenger seat. But just three miles from the top, where the course steepens and drivers prepare for a final punch to the summit, the Fiesta’s turbo quits, cutting the power in half. Grönholm plows ahead, mulishly urging the failing Ford up the last switchbacks. A fire breaks out. Just a quartermile to go. He persists, trailing flames in the final turns. When he crosses the finish line, a rear tire is engulfed.“Iwanted to get to the top,” Grönholm says later, with a grin. Amazingly, he finished with the day’s fifth-fastest time. But he takes comfort in knowing that Tajima didn’t break 10 minutes either, despite finishing intact. There’s always next year. “I know what I need to do now to come back and be fastest,” he says. Besides not catching on fire, he plans to skip the donuts.

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Boulder, Colorado–based writer KELLY BASTONE races a 1964 Volkswagen Beetle convertible, which rarely crosses any ﬁnish line ﬁrst.

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the consequences. He’s fond of making comic-book sound effects, though he’d rather avoid a slapstick ending.

BOARDING PASS Pikes Peak may be full of twists and turns, but Denver is a straight line from more than 100 cities throughout North America. United connects Denver to more of the world than any other airline.

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The Fiestas are specially tailored for Pikes Peak. Despite their extra-large race wings (to compensate for the mountain’s thinner air), they look a lot like the showroom Fiestas Ford will roll out in summer 2010—except, of course, they have bigger brakes, a roll cage, a high-test turbo charger and a stampede of additional horses under theEriksson’shood. car also boasts a rebuilt shell, since he wrecked it in practice three days before the race. So it’s really up to Grönholm to challenge the 10-minute mark. “Today I’ll prioritize safety,” Eriksson says from the doorway of the team truck. “Marcus, he does everything right, all the little stuff. When he makes a mistake, it’s huge, a real screwup.” But such snafus are rare, which is why rally fans revere Grönholm and expect a dazzling performance from him on a course that’s famous for intimidating lesser drivers. Adds Eriksson, “Marcus is not afraid of anything.”

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Why Lunch Dating Specialist Amy Brinkman asks “Why waste time on online pro ﬁ les and the bar scene when you could be on a date right now?”

“When you are ready to start dating, you want to immediately.”start

How does It’s Just Lunch “match” singles? We believe that nothing replaces the human touch, and we don’t believe in “computer matches.” It doesn’t matter if you both like to jog, both like Chinese food, and both would like something long term – you can like all the same things and still not like each other. That’s why we use our intuition to create the match. First we interview each client like you would get to know a new friend, learning about their personalities, their likes and dislikes, and their relationship goals. Then, we call to arrange their fi rst date. We contact both clients, get their schedules, fi nd an easy time and place for them to meet, and even make them a reservation. As part of our policy, we don’t give out our clients’ last names or phone numbers. There are no online profi les for the world to see and it’s up to the client if they want to share more details during their date and exchange cards in order to meet again, or not. What kind of people would I meet through It’s Just Lunch? Our clients range from business owners and engineers to programmers and lawyers. We seem to have someone for just about everyone. Some of our clients have just moved and are new to town. All of our clients have one thing in common though: they’re ready to meet someone new. Any advice for the conversation? Rule number one: Never talk about a past relationship. It can instill feelings of jealousy, awkwardness, or insecurity in seconds. If it comes up, give a brief answer and change the subject. Avoid topics such as politics and religion until you’ve gotten to know each other bett er. Make a conscious eff ort to ask or answer questions from your most positive perspective. Studies show people fi nd you more interesting when you ask questions about them. If you don’t know what to ask, just pause a moment to think . . . silence can be sexy and mysterious.

When we started It’s Just Lunch eighteen years ago, singles simply introduced themselves and began talking – done. Now, couples chat, email, instant message, tweet, text and even video chat. People relate through their computers and mobile phones. Th is makes it easier than ever to stay in touch with someone you already know – but nearly impossible to meet someone you don’t. Now the methods that people used to rely on for romantic introductions are gone. But busy singles don’t have the time or desire to cruise the bars or scan online profi les. Th is is exactly where It’s Just Lunch comes in. We introduce our clients to real people – not online profi les or phone numbers. We provide that missing network, and we do it in a way that fits into everyone’s hectic schedule.

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On the eve of the World Series, one obsessive baseball fan ﬁnds that a trip to Cooperstown, New York, feels a bit like coming home.

“TO LIGHT A CANDLE, NOT FILL A BUCKET.” It might sound saccharine to some, but that quote from National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum curator John O’Dell—a reference to his goal of inspiring museumgoers rather than just collecting memorabilia—simply stuns me with its imagery every time I hear it. In fact, those are the words that finally convince my new girlfriend, Bobbi, to make the trip to Cooperstown with me. It’s a risky move. We’ve only been seeing each other for six weeks, and our new relationship somehow feels even newer than that. A 26-year-old Ph.D. in linguistics, Bobbi is taking a postdoctoral sabbatical from hobnobbing with brainiacs and scholars to date me. She has zero interest in baseball and suspect interest in yours truly, but O’Dell’s line intrigues her, so, on a crisp Thursday, we take a drive to upstate New York. An early morning departure from Cleveland and six hours on I-90 delivers us deep into a nearly pristine wilderness. The entire landscape is dusted white by a recent snowfall and, for a while, it appears to go on forever. Then, almost at once—Cooperstown.Sure,it’sacharming little hamlet replete with vintage streetlights, homey storefronts and untouched 1930s quaintness, but that’s not why my heart is aflutter. A solitary thought echoes in my mind. The Hall. The Hall. The Hall. It’s so close. I’m here—truly, finally, actually here—in Cooperstown, baseball’s Vatican City. Ruth. Cobb. DiMaggio. Heroes and villains of the best game there ever was. Legends and magic and Cool Papa Bell. I can’t wait, can’t sit still. I roll down my window, and even the cold, crisp bite of February tastes sweeter than usual. As Bobbi naps next to me, I actually giggle in anticipation. Two quick left turns, and it stands before me—the Baseball Hall of Fame—a stately structure, three-stories of red brick. My boyhood dreams realized. “We’re here,” I announce. Bobbi stirs and drowsily sits up in her“Isseat.that it?” she asks. I answer breathlessly and without taking my eyes off the building. “Yes.”

BY YATES WALKER // ILLUSTRATIONS BY KATE O’CONNOR 63diary

CULTURE | OCTOBER 2009

To Hall and Back

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.C OM

In the lobby, the first thing I notice is noise. There’s chatter from all directions as queues form and snake across the floor. The lobby is alive with energy, a craving for the experience about to be had. There are maps to grab, tours to choose, tickets to buy. Men in ball caps are making plans, discussing the order of exhibits they want to see. Parents and teachers marshal children. All around, eyes are aglow. Everyone wants to be there—except for the people who don’t. After purchasing our tickets, Bobbi and I follow a map down a hallway to find a section dedicated to baseball’s origins and Abner Doubleday, the Zeus in baseball’s pantheon. I can feel my heart pounding in my ears as I walk the halls. I tell myself that the experience won’t officially begin until I stop walking and pore over my first exhibit. I am intentionally ignoring the museum displays that I pass. I will return to them later. For the moment, I’m trying to hold off until I find the perfect beginning because, as soon as I begin, the inevitable end is closer. The anticipation is better than a first kiss. When I can resist no longer, I stop at a glass case mounted on a wall. It is a glimpse into 19th century America. There are historical references to an English game called rounders from which baseball apparently evolved, but that’s not what interests me. I’ve found my perfect beginning. It is captured in a few old photos of a semiprofessional team from 1880s Corinne, Utah. Looking at black-and-white stills of long-dead men, forever 20 years old and in pinstripes, one immediately senses a game without time. It’s how I always thought of our national pastime: pure, forever, American. There were no steroids, no millionaires. It was just baseball, just the game and its heroes, and, oh, what a game. I feel an irresistible surge of patriotism as I stare at a 100-year-old bunch of laced leather. It is a rudimentary glove, probably made for a son by a stitching mother and a farming father who killed the cow and treated the hide himself. A ball demonstrating similar craftsmanship rests beside it. I can’t imagine attempting to use such a mitt to catch such a ball, but I love that someone did. That was baseball. From its very beginning, the game was ugly and hard, but good at its core, just like the country that played Unfortunately,it. that kind of sentiment isn’t readily transferable, and soon Bobbi tells me that she’s taking a cigarette break. Her departure might warrant more attention, except that, the moment before, I’d found Tyrus Raymond Cobb. Ty Cobb. Quite possibly the greatest player of all time. The original Georgia Peach. And the meanest SOB ever to swing a bat. In various photographs, Ty wears several different faces. He looks almost charming in the photos that capture him promoting Coca-Cola in the soft drink company’s infancy. He is homely handsome on tobacco cards in his Detroit Tigers uniform. But in a few of the photos, you can catch a glimmer of the famous vicious streak he’d shown by shouting racist epithets, attacking fans and cleating fellow ballplayers with the intent to maim. I walk down another hall, looking for signs of Bobbi. She’s been a good sport simply by making the trip. I want to help her enjoy the experience. But when I find a wing dedicated to the Negro Leagues, I briefly forget I have a girlfriend. The Monarchs of Kansas City. Chicago’s Brown Bombers. Satchel Paige. Josh Gibson. Cold electricity shoots up my spine as a smile spreads across my face. Yes, it was baseball’s apartheid. Yes, it’s a shameful reminder of my country’s racist past. But it was also glorious. I can almost feel the celebrated and singular carnival atmosphere of black baseball. The Negro Leagues had a unique spirit, a renegade essence and a fierce independence. The joy for the game was the same. A miniature movie theater with antique drapery draws me inside. I take a seat and soon find myself fighting back tears as I watch black-and-white footage of Jackie Robinson and Larry Doby. As the two men integrate the major leagues before my eyes, I can’t stop thinking about how they helped begin to heal a divided country’s wounds. I spend three hours by myself, discovering and rediscovering my heroes, Yogi Berra and Carlton Fisk and Mickey Mantle, reading about the Chicago Black Sox scandal that almost destroyed baseball and Babe Ruth, who saved it. There are too many stories to put in one article, but there’s a truth that occurs to me in Cooperstown that I think is worth Professionalsharing.baseball has never been pure. Today’s steroids are just the latest bit of hideousness. At times throughout its existence, the sport has been marred by racism, riddled with corruption, governed by greed and played by cheaters. Indeed, baseball is a dirty game. But also a great one. And it belongs to America. It is the people’s game. We start playing it at age five. And that moment when a young man—or, increasingly, a young woman— stands defiantly at the plate, eyes glinting, fingers gripping a Louisville Slugger, is transcendently, incorruptibly American. It is good versus evil, the one against the many. And when we can no longer swing a bat, we replay that moment in our minds. And that’s why the game has such longevity. Certainly, 64 diary Baseball has never been pure. Today’s steroids are just the latest bit of hideousness. Indeed, baseball is a dirty game. But also a great one.

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SURESH JEYACHANDRAN, IBEAR MBA ‘09 Prior to entering the IBEAR MBA, Suresh was chief consultant, Corporate Software Engineering Center, Toshiba Corporation, in Tokyo.

Classmates…in Los Angeles

65 baseball can get dirty, but we can stand up and brush off the dirt because—once again, like the country that plays it— baseball is capable of righting itself. I’m staring at a photo of Lou Gehrig as he says goodbye to Yankee Stadium when I decide that there are people who love baseball and people who don’t, and the people who don’t just haven’t looked closely enough. Then I feel a tap on my shoulder and turn around. It’s Bobbi. “I love this place,” I tell her, pulling her“Iclose.dotoo,” she answers earnestly. In answer to my look of disbelief, Bobbi explains that in our time apart, she discovered and became bewitched by a section devoted to baseball’s inﬂuence on the American lexicon. “I like baseball!” she admits with a note of surprise. “Who’d’ve guessed?” On the long ride home, Bobbi and I talk about our favorite exhibits. I tell her about baseball’s history and fundamentals. She relates to me a new fascination with baseball’s inﬂuence on regional dialects. I explain to her that the designated hitter is fundamentally un-American. She tells me that baseballese has affected her understanding of discourse analysis. She’s a lot smarter than me. We’re still dating. And I think it’s partially due to a now-shared love of baseball. For John O’Dell, two more candles lit in Cooperstown. Against all odds, YATES WALKER never made the T-ball Hall of Fame. www.ibear.com ibearmba@marshall.usc.edu213-740-7140

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67 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009 A pair of sturdy, handmade jade chopsticks will come in handy as you explore the delectable world of Shanghai’s soup 82dumplings.artifactP. 68 STREET FIGHTER On the rooftops with the world’s most daring artist By Rachel Sturtz 74 FINDERS KEEPERS Hunting for sunken silver in New York Harbor By Grant Stoddard 82 3PD: SHANGHAI Beijing’s little brother is all grown up. By Laurie Werner PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

STREET FIGHTER OCTOBERUNITED.COM2009 68 A 26-YEAR-OLD PARISIAN ARTIST TRAVELS TO PLACES THAT ARMIES AVOID TO MAKE SOME OF THE WORLD’S MOST COMPELLING, IMPORTANT AND DANGEROUS ART. AND ASIDE FROM A FEW OF HISFRIENDS, NO ONE NAMEHISKNOWS. BY RACHEL STURTZ

JR reaches out, yanks him in and slams the door shut. A few minutes later, it’s over. The boys return to the steps and the Frenchmen return to their work. It’s just another day in the favela—except, if you look from a distance, you can see the 20 paper-covered sets of concrete stairs in this slum start to reveal a giant image of a woman’s chin.

A SUNNY DAY IN THE FAVELAS OF RIO DE JANEIRO. Five young Frenchmen slop wallpaper glue on the steps of a rough stone staircase. Some boys watch them with curiosity. A woman in a colorful tank top climbs past and continues up the stairs, which slice through a steep maze of dilapidated shacks. The Frenchmen have paid two shady characters to guard them, and they occupy the steps above. The woman passes them, turns down one of the narrow alleyways and climbs stairs that fork a dozen times over between homes, like a game of concrete Chutes and Ladders. The Frenchmen unroll a length of paper as long as the steps are tall—around 100 feet—and smooth the paper over the glue. They’re busy brushing one more layer of glue over the whole thing when, from above, ﬁve gunshots pierce the air. There is no screaming, just the sound of feet in motion and chopped French phrases. “This way!” The team scrambles into the nearest doorway, which leads into a courtyard where people are already huddled against a wall. The artist in charge of the project—a tall man sporting a well-trimmed beard and Ray-Bans who goes only by the name JR—leans out the door and yells, in English, “Kid! Kid!” at a young boy standing alone on the stairs, in the sun, not knowing which way to run.

A large black-and-white picture of an older woman’s face is pasted over the speakers. Her eyes bug out and her lips are pursed, and as the speakers throb, sections of her eyes, nose, mouth and forehead move with the heartbeat. JR is pleased. Three days from now, this installation will occupy a wall in Paris’ esteemed Emmanuel Perrotin Gallery, as part of “Stages,” an art exhibition organized by Lance Armstrong to coincide with the Tour de France. The piece is a departure

OCTOBER 2009 70 SELF PORTRAIT Below, appearsJRin the eyes of his subject; opposite, a wall in London.

BACK IN HIS PARIS STUDIO, JR stands before his newest project: a stack of 40 large box speakers glued and screwed together to form a 10-foot tall oval, which is currently blasting the bass-heavy loop of a heartbeat. He sips an espresso and scratches the top of his forehead, which is hidden beneath a straw fedora. Behind his sunglasses, he squints.

When he switched to photos, he started small, shooting pictures of his friends spray-painting around Paris. Then he’d print out the black-and-white images, return to the place he shot them and quickly glue them to the wall. Thirty seconds

The walls of his studio are lined with more giant vignettes of faces and eyes, each belonging to the Brazilian, Cambodian, Indian and African women who lined up to have their picture taken. This October, during fashion week no less, Parisians will see these faces on their bridges, banks and city buildings when JR wraps up his project with exhibitions around the city and the release of his book, Women Are Heroes But for now, he needs to ﬁnd two more speakers to even out the left side of the woman’s pulsating face.

the adoration of the favela children means the women—the mothers, aunts and sisters—will follow suit. And if the women trust JR, the men—the fathers, uncles and brothers, who are also the drug traffickers and street enforcers—will give him the space to work and even spare his life if a “situation” arises. The process is the same in every country he’s visited, hotspots like Kenya, Liberia, Sudan, Sierra Leone, Cambodia and India.

JR ﬁrst came to Rio last year, after a particularly brutal event caught his attention. In December 2007, the Brazilian government began a program to rehabilitate a crumbling favela. To ensure the safety of the workers, soldiers accompanied them. What should have been a feel-good gesture to the residents quickly disintegrated into a nightmare that summer, when soldiers carted off three “unruly” boys. The poor in Rio are well-versed in corruption, but what happened next knocked them to their knees: Instead of taking the boys to jail, the soldiers handed them over to drug lords from a rival favela. The traffickers killed them and tossed the bodies into theThegarbage.media broadcast the story globally, shining a light on the endemic corruption. JR watched the news from his Paris apartment. Two months later, he landed in Rio, armed with a camera and a supply of wheat paste.

You get the picture: JR doesn’t do galleries. His last project, the 2007 series “28 Millimetres: Women,” was more typical. Depicting women surviving in difficult circumstances, it led JR from Kenya to India to Brazil to take close-up photos of women’s faces and blow them up to superhuman size before pasting them all over various cities.

“JR is able to use art to confront people with a point of view about society without it being political or malicious,” says Marc Schiller, cofounder of international street art blog the Wooster Collective. “Instead, it’s life-affirming.”

EVEN AS AN 18-YEAR-OLD GRAFFITI ARTIST in Paris, JR had an affection for forgotten places. His earliest work—tiny tags that read “JR was here”—were sprayed under electric boxes in Metro tunnels and hidden corners of rooftops. His only fans were fellow artists and vagabonds.

“When I started, it felt like I was walking on the moon and leaving the ﬁrst human mark,” he says. “I knew then that graffiti only speaks to people who like graffiti. But I soon realized that photography would speak to everyone.”

“He takes risks without a safety net,” says Marco Berrebi, his longtime friend and collaborator. “But by going in with no protection, he’s relating to people on a human level.”

for JR, a 26-year-old Paris native, mostly because it is neither illegally displayed nor four stories tall and affixed to the side of a building, which is his preferred canvas. (Other canvases of choice include rooftops, swimming pools, buses, trains, crumbling brick, broken doorways.)

“THE KIDS ALWAYS SHOW UP FIRST,” JR says as he opens a photo on his laptop of ﬁve Brazilian boys from Morro da Providência, the oldest and most dangerous favela in Rio. Leaning up against one another, laughing with arms crossed, the boys hold sheets of newspaper that they’ve twisted and folded into the shape of guns. Trust takes time in the favelas, which are notoriously hostile to outsiders, and JR relies on the curiosity of its youngest residents to gain access. In another photo, the boys have returned, and instead of guns, they’re carrying newly constructed newspaper cameras, turning the tables on JR’s crew. This is a good sign. Gaining

“The media only gives us one angle, and it’s usually from a helicopter circling a riot or war,” JR says, motioning up in the air with a pen made from a bullet casing he found in Rio. “You only see the guns and violence. I’m hoping to give people another angle.”

“JR goes to see these people to create something with them,” says Berrebi. “There is no stage, no border. Whatever he creates belongs to them.”

As part of the exhibition, he pasted the photos around the ghettos in Montfermeil and Clichy-sous-Bois, to the youths’ delight, and then wallpapered the wealthy arrondissements in Paris, to the residents’ disgust. After that he made “Face 2 Face,” photographing Israelis and Palestinians who held the same jobs—actors, musicians, hairdressers—and pasted their images together along the West Bank and on shops in Tel Aviv, Jerusalem and Bethlehem. He wanted to see if people could tell the difference between the two faces.

later, he was done, running down an alleyway before the police caught on. Soon, documenting his friends wasn’t enough. “Graffiti was about the action,” says JR. “As I began to paste bigger pictures, I wanted more. And when I began going to other cities, it became aboutTheconcept.”ﬁrstconcept was social unrest. He turned his lens to the youth involved in the 2005 Paris riots, which led to his ﬁrst complete project, 2006’s “Portrait of a Generation.”

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“They are so proud of their story,” says JR, ﬂipping through one of the oversize books. “They are the true owners of these photos.”

Whenever he goes into a community, JR sits down with restaurant owners, businessmen and priests to explain his project and get their blessing to paste on their walls. Even so, it’s generally illegal. City officials consider JR’s work vandalism, and they’re often confused when a business owner charges up to defend him as they try to make an arrest. Which is why when the media comes calling, he (usually) lets his work do the talking. He prefers to be anonymous, so much so that no one outside his circle of friends knows his real name, he never attends his exhibitions (his assistant Emile goes in his stead) and almost never grants interviews. His intentions at the start of a project are simple: shoot and paste. Occasionally, though, he gets much more involved. After a few days of photographing the women in Kenya, he pasted the roofs with vinyl pictures instead of paper to protect the shoddy homes from rain. In Rio, he turned an empty house into a community center for the children (which he continues to finance) and rebuilt a home for one of the favela ’s poorest families by hiring local men to do the job. Finally, when he finishes each project, he creates a special-edition book of stories and photos for the community he’s visited.

RACHEL STURTZ , whose street art experience is limited to hopscotch chalk drawings, is a writer living in New York City.

PAPER TRAIL Clockwise, Rio, Paris, Cambodia and inbelow,OppositeLiberia.andtrainsKenya

“I realized in the Middle East that there are places in the world where people have no concept of art, especially the kind you’d ﬁnd in the street,” says JR. “In Paris, people can walk by street art and recognize it and put it in a frame. But in the Middle East, the photos actually made people stop and ask questions. And the discussion it creates is far stronger than my message. That is the purpose of art.”

// SOMEWHERE BENEATH THE MURKY WATERS DIVIDING STATEN ISLAND AND NEW JERSEY, THERE’S A MISSING CACHE OF $26 MILLION IN SILVER BARS, AND KEN HAYES THINKS HE KNOWS WHERE. NOW, IF HE CAN JUST FIND IT BEFORE SOMEONE ELSE DOES.. . // BY GRANT STODDARD BYPHOTOGRAPHSSTEFANKILLEN // FINDERS KEEPERS OCTOBER 2009 75

An accident that befell the famous family business 106 years ago is the reason this trash-strewn shipping channel is buzzing with activity. Here’s what Hayes knows: At 2 a.m. on September 27, 1903, a tugboat called Ganoga departed a pier in the East River towing a chain of 14 river barges to a smelting plant 15 miles away in Perth Amboy, New Jersey. However, a drunken tug crew—“the dumbest skunks I ever had do with,” reported one sailor—lashed the barges together sloppily. At some point after the convoy passed the Statue of Liberty and entered the Arthur Kill, the last one in line started listing to starboard, and the silver bars slowly fell overboard, one at a time. By the time the convoy reached Perth Amboy, 7,000 “pigs” wereMostgone.ofthis precious load was recovered in the days immediately following the expensive mishap, but the rest is still down there, somewhere. Now, Hayes feels he is tantalizingly close to ﬁnding what dozens of prospectors since could not.

“I’M A SCIENTIST, NOT A TREASURE HUNTER,” says Hayes. “Treasure hunting is just an interesting application of the technology we utilize in the other things.” But it’s ﬁnding lost treasure that puts the gleam in Hayes’ eyes, and he’s no stranger to the pursuit. Over the past few years, Aqua Survey has been subcontracted on several salvages, including that of Nuestra Señora de Atocha, a Spanish ship that wrecked off the Florida Keys in 1622. Hundreds of millions of dollars’ worth of gold have been recovered from the

Robert E. Hayes (named after his father), which looks more like a miniature oil rig than a seagoing vessel, Hayes is feeling optimistic. Three 80-foot-tall iron legs pierce the boat’s ﬂat deck; at Hayes’ command, one of the crewmen pushes a series of levers, and the legs lower onto the river bottom 25 feet below. A minute later, the hull is lifted out of the water, transforming the vessel into a stable platform. Workers busily prepare the sled—a custom-made, high-tech metal detector about the size of two picnic tables—to be lowered in the water. One of Aqua Survey’s smaller boats, the Delaware, will drag it across the river bottom as it scans the muck. So how did this silver trove end up in Arthur Kill? The trail starts in Manhattan, not far from the Chrysler Building. Before the silver hit the river bottom, it belonged to a wealthy mining baron named Meyer Guggenheim, whose son Solomon was a philanthropist and an art collector. Solomon commissioned Frank Lloyd Wright to build the famous Fifth Avenue museum bearing the family name in part with the fortune Meyer amassed from mining and smelting metals.

In the distance, highlights of the world’s most famous skyline emerge: the Empire State Building, the twinkling spire of the Chrysler Building. Factories and warehouses line the shore, and dozens of rusting, crumbling hulks of scuttled and abandoned ships sit in the tidal mud near the riverbanks. It’s the mud that interests Ken Hayes. More specifically, what lies beneath the mud. Tall and lanky, with a graying beard and an easy laugh, Hayes is a 56-year-old scientist who specializes in finding things underwater. His Jersey-based company, Aqua Survey, Inc., usually spends its days engaged in pretty mundane stuff: dredging, marine construction, soil and sediment toxicology, and locating the surprisingly prodigious amount of unexploded ordnance lurking in the waters around the United States. But today, Hayes is working on his favorite— and potentially most profitable—project: finding the lost Guggenheim silver, valued at around $26 million. Standing on the deck of his 72-foot research craft, the // A HOT MIDSUMMER MORNING ON ARTHUR KILL, A CROWDED 10-MILE TIDAL STRAIT THAT SEPARATES STATEN ISLAND, NEW YORK, FROM THE INDUSTRIAL MAINLAND OF NEW JERSEY.

IT’S

site, and while Aqua Survey has earned just a fraction of that, its success leaves the team in high demand. But the Arthur Kill project is Hayes’ baby. “I think we’re pretty close,” he says with a smile. “We have theSuddenly,technology.”acrewman announces over the radio that there might be a problem with the sled. “I said that we have the technology,” Hayes says, turning back to me with a grin. “I didn’t say it’s been perfected.” In fact, the entire morning on the Arthur Kill has been less than perfect. First of all, a competing prospector has arrived and is watching Hayes’ crew from afar. Hayes isn’t too concerned (“They’re pretty ﬂy-by-night”). More irritating are threats from local crabbers, who’ve tailed the Aqua Survey team from their dock in Jersey City. They demanded money—what Hayes called “rent”—for the right even to be in this part of the Kill, and when Hayes refused, they dropped crab pots in the expedition’s path. This morning, the crabbers were asking for $300, Hayes says. Apparently, with the approach of noon, the price has gone up to $800. THE BAY // Rotting piles jut out of the water, while beyond, the Outerbridge Crossing spans Arthur

REMAINS OF

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A crewman on the foredeck of the Robert E. Hayes maneuvers the sled aboard for a quick repair.

On the boat’s starboard side, shaded by the wheelhouse, Hayes produces a laminated photocopy of a New York Times article from October 17, 1903, which details the barge accident and recovery. It’s effectively a treasure map in article form, Hayes contends, replete with apparent red herrings that he believes could yield important clues. Since ﬁrst hearing about the silver in the mid-’80s, Hayes has studied the piece like the Rosetta Stone, identifying words whose meanings have altered and dissecting logic gaps and inconsistencies in police reports. He’s plied local people for old rumors about the incident and tried to separate myth from historical fact. Tales abound of a local Native American man who resided in a nursing home with just one possession: an ingot of Guggenheim silver. Hayes never found him, but he did travel to the Mexican works where the bars were ﬁrst cast. “I wanted to see examples of what we’re looking for.”

DETECTIVES //

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“They’ve got to be kidding,” Hayes chuckles as a team member relays the revised price. “What’s stopping them from telling their buddies at the bar tonight? How much will they want tomorrow? Tell ’em no deal!”

MYSTERY SHIP //

“There’s some junk down there,” says a machinist as a derrick begins lifting the sled to the surface. “There’s old trucks, refrigerators—who knows what else. It’s bound to get snagged every now and then.” “Some junk” doesn’t come close to describing the amount of rotting, rusting detritus clogging the banks of the waterway.

When its three 80-foot-long legs are lowered, the Hayes transforms into a work platform.

While we’ve been chatting on the Hayes, the Delaware has been towing the sled back and forth across the channel in a sweeping pattern, like a lawn mower. Technicians are now convinced the sled has sustained some structural damage.

Arthur Kill is a veritable graveyard of abandoned machinery that manages to look eerie and haunted even in the blazing summer sunshine. Derelict, oxidized tugboats beached in the shallows have slumped in on themselves; superstructures on half-submerged hulls poke through the murky surface like the ribs of some gargantuan sea monster. Meanwhile, enormous modern supertankers glide quietly by, laden with oil. Despite appearances, this is a body of water that’s actually seen some ecological improvement. Hayes points out that the silversides swimming near the surface have only recently returned to the

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“It’s amazing, isn’t it?” says Hayes, hands on the guardrail as he peers into the murk. “This silver is mined and made into bars in Mexico, shipped to Galveston, shipped to Manhattan —that’s thousands of miles over open ocean, mind you—then just a mile or two shy of the reﬁning plant it slides into a shallow brackish channel. Incredible!” Sure enough, the sled has collided with an obstacle, ripping some of the plastic sheeting from the frame. Extra holes are quickly drilled, more plastic gizmos affixed (for obvious reasons, Hayes doesn’t discuss technical details), and within minutes the sled is sent back down to the bottom.

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Awakened by the splashes, Captain Peter neverthelessMoore fails to notice the Harold listing in the rear of the convoy. Upon arriving at the works, ThebasedaheMoorebars,discoverstevedoresthemissingandwhenisquestioned,canofferonlyroughposition,onthemoon.load,nowworth$26million,isstilldownthere.

Late at night on September 26, 1903, the Harold, a barge laden with 7,000 bars of silver bullion, leaves Manhattan. One of 14 barges pulled by a tug boat, the Harold is en route to a smelting plant in Perth Amboy, New Jersey At a speed of just a couple knots, the convoy makes its way around the tip of Manhattan, past the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island, into Arthur Kill. The Harold is improperly tied by a reportedly drunken crew, and it begins to list to starboard. Starting around 2 a.m., just a few miles short of the smelting plant in the mouth of the Kill, the Harold rolls and spills all but 200 of the “pigs,” most likely in small batches along the riverbed.

area, a sure sign, he says, that the ecosystem is slowly headed back to health.“Seehow some crabbers have set their pots mostly on the Jersey side of the channel?” asks Ken.

“That’s because New Jersey has higher standards when it comes to water pollution. Our ‘friends’ are over on the New York side. Different rules. And what they catch might be eaten in a fancy Manhattan restaurant tonight.” Within a few minutes, the sled is hauled onto the deck and the bottom sludge hosed off. It looks homemade, because it is: plastic drainpipes held together with epoxy form the sled frame, corrugated plastic sheeting is affixed to the underside of the drainpipe frame with plastic zipties. On the topside of the sled sits the heralded technology: two red rectangular boxes that can “see” deep into sediment that has hidden the booty for over a century.

UNDER COVER OF THE NIGHT

The $26 million trove is hidden just miles from Manhattan’s Financial

Whether it’s Hayes who’s the ﬁrst to stand in a courtroom clutching a 75-pound bar of silver or the shady competitor buzzing nearby on the Kill, he remains philosophical at the prospect of being bested.

Should he ﬁnd the silver, Hayes’ next step is to get a sample in front of a judge in Manhattan, who will decide who gets to keep the money and how much. “In any other state but New York you’d present any artifact you’d salvaged from the area to a judge,” he says. “It could be anything, a screwdriver, a pipe, whatever—and you’d get salvage rights to that area.” In New York, Hayes has to show up with an actual bar of silver.

“To be honest,” he says, “I think I’d feel some sense of relief. I’d be able to let it go. Look, I’d rather someone, anyone, found it than have it sit down there forever.”

SILVER LINING //

A frequent contributor to Men’s Health and New York, GRANT STODDARD hopes to buy stock in Aqua Survey, Inc.

District.HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMOCTOBER2009

“And who knows how many more people will come out here looking for it?”

One of the largest, most mysterious cities in the world has emerged 82 OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

84 DAY ONE Exploring the Bundexquisitedistrict 89 DAY TWO Getting massagea at Dongtai Lu 90 DAY THREE Chowing down at Fry-DumplingYang’s THE SECRET GARDEN The almost surreal view of Shanghai’s skyline from a long slumber to become a major player on the global scene. Three Perfect ShanghaiDaysBYLAURIEWERNER

JUST THE WORD CONJURES IMAGES OF DECADENCE AND GLAMOUR: the Opium Wars, gambling dens, Jazz Age expats and spies from all corners trading secrets as champagne flowed. This portrait of Shanghai took hold in the popular imagination in the ’20s and ’30s as the city, then one of the most cosmopolitan in the world, gained an international reputation as the exotic Eastern hub of trade, finance, fashion and intrigue. Then World War II broke out, and the party stopped; the Communists took over in 1949 and all but shut down outside commerce in Shanghai for decades. These days, the largest city in China—and with some 19 million residents, one of the largest in the world—is once again the most vibrant. Its coming-out party is next summer’s World Expo, an extravaganza expected to make Shanghai a focus of world attention for six months. What sights will greet visitors? Vertigo-inducing, blinking skyscrapers, teeming bars and top-shelf restaurants, a thriving art scene and shop-houses filled with haute designers. Not to worry: Though Shanghai is reborn, it still seems like old times.

SHANGHAI.

In the hotel lobby, you’re struck by the sheer breadth and depth of the grand breakfast buffet, a furious amalgam of pancakes, stir-fried Shanghai noodles and dumplings that seems to extend forever. You quickly decide not to linger and instead grab a fresh, flaky pastry and bracing coffee and meet up with Spencer Dodington, director of Luxury Concierge China, who gives you a brief overview of the city and an introductory walk. It’s hard to overstate the colonial opulence on display in the Bund. The buildings are referred to by number, and their architecture reflects the piles of money made by traders in the ’20s. You marvel at the gilded columns, intricate marble floors and gold-lined skylight in No. 24 (2), once a Japanese bank but now the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China. No. 12 (3) was built in 1923 with the intention of dominating the neighborhood. Mission

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SHANGHAI SIGHTS

Clockwise from right, the Bund at night, a colorful local, a colonial clock tower, and Mao notebooks at the Dongtai Lu antiques market 1

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM 84

DAY ONE You wake up in Puxi, Shanghai’s swank central district, throw open the shades and take in what may be the best view in the city, from the Hyatt on the Bund (1), a modern, airy hotel overlooking the stately former European bank buildings that make up the small, well-touristed neighborhood called the Bund (an Urdu word imported by British traders). To the left you see the arc of the busy Huangpu River, and to the right the bizarro towers of the ﬁnancial district known as Pudong (Puxi denizens refer to this workmanlike burg as “Pu Jersey”).

CONCESSION STANDS For designer shoes, cafés and Maoist kitsch, head to the leafy French Concession.

Now you’re wondering, What other myths do I need to investigate?

Head south to the Old City in search of Shanghai’s most delicious creation, the soup dumpling. You find the dim sum emporium, Din Tai Fung (5), and order the pork and crab dumpling. It isn’t the tidiest of meals, but they’re worth the mess. (Tip for beginners: Cradle the dumpling in the ceramic spoon and make a small incision with your teeth; as broth then burbles into the spoon, slurp it slowly before gobbling the rest.) The dumpling, you realize, is anything but a knockoff Walk to Yu Garden (6), a 400-year-old oasis of pebbly ponds, wisteria and ginkgo trees, jade rock formations and dozens of peaceful pavilions—some quite whimsically named, like the “Pavilion for Viewing Frolicking Fish” (yes, they frolic). Then dash through the knickknack bazaar to the newly restored 15th century Chenghuang Miao, Temple of the City God, which protects the spirits of the departed citizens of Shanghai. Light a stick of incense, and on the way out watch a medicinal healer tap a hopeful customer’s head with a bundle of herbs—an ancient remedy. You briefly consider a dose, but it’s only day one, and things are going well. So far. Dinnertime comes at you fast. Luckily, the hotel concierge already made reservations for you at Shintori Null 2 (7), a minimalist hipster mecca serving expert sushi in a neighborhood du jour known as the French Concession. Pass through a narrow grove of bamboo trees and enter the former factory space. The ceilings are high enough to hush the crowds, and the sashimi and tempura are fresh, simple and light, a perfect counterpoint to the soup dumplings. Afterward, drop into the JZ Club (8) nearby, where a swing band is firing up. The club is dark, crowded and smoky, a paean to the Prohibition era. After a couple of drinks, you’re transported back to a roaring world 86

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accomplished: The result is so stunning that Communist Party elders grabbed No. 12 as their prized local headquarters in 1955. Elsewhere on the Bund, the swank new Chinese style is on display. No. 18 (4), home to Zegna and Cartier, has enormous, glowing red Murano chandeliers. Once inside, browse the shelves of the clothes shop

GARY YU RESTAURATEUR //

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE 3PD SHANGHAI

Younik, which stocks all the best current Chinese designers. The dramatic cuts and lush fabrics will make you question China’s reputation as the land of cheap knockoffs.

“There’s a great hidden Spanish restaurant called el Willy. It’s quite new, and everyone loves it already. One little thing not many people know is there’s a Japanese restaurant above it, run by the same owner. It’s very tiny, only 14 seats. I love both places because they’re a mash-up, just like new Shanghai.”

“I like to hit the boutiques on Huaihai Road. My favorite are two French Colonial villas in a small garden behind the street that now contain Vacheron Constantin and Dunhill stores. And I always like to go to Lu Xun Park to watch the opera singers, particularly in spring when the cherry blossoms bloom.”

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SCRAPING BY // Shanghai’s otherworldly skyline comes at a price // By late 2010, there will be a projected 5,000 skyscrapers within Shanghai’s city limits. The buildings elicit a range of opinions. Some gape at the otherworldly shapes and technicolor lights. The most eye-catching ediﬁce is the 1,535-foot Oriental Pearl TV Tower, shaped like a rocket ship that’s skewered giant bowling balls. The tallest building in the city is the high-tech Shanghai World Financial Center, a 101-ﬂoor goliath with a rectangle cut from the top that makes it look like a bottle opener.

89 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

RAISE THE RED (AND YELLOW) LANTERNS A well-lit alleyway near Yu Garden; a taste of the nightlife; and a taxi home you thought disappeared with Louise Brooks. But it’s late, so you step outside, back to 2009, and hail a cab home.

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DAY TWO Forgo a taxi (though they’re inexpensive—the longest ride on this itinerary costs no more than four dollars) in favor of a brisk walk to People’s Square (1), a bustling mall packed with—what else?—people, and grab croissants and coffee at any one of the dozens of dim sum stalls. Then stroll Nanjing Lu and check out the shops, which reflect a fine balance of cutting-edge fashion and the highly negotiable prices of Old Shanghai. You’ve discovered the sweet spot between the fashionable present and the cut-rate past. Take advantage without guilt. Cross the square to the Shanghai Museum (2), which resembles a large cooking pot, complete with jug handles, and houses 120,000 objects of fine art, including collections of ceramics, weapons and sculptures dating back to the Neolithic Era. You’ll also see the calligraphy paintings of misty mountains often found in dentists’ offices. Except, you know, these are the real thing. Double back to the French Concession and walk until you encounter the seductively named street Calm Heaven. Here, you’ll find the bustling restaurant Jesse (3). Boisterous waiters are anything but calm as they weave magically through the warren of crowded dining rooms bearing steaming plates of boiled red hairy crabs, roasted fatty pork and carafes of local wine. Opt for the house special, a soothingly tender salt-cured chicken. Now it’s time for Shanghai’s worldrenowned foot massage. There is an abundance of stylish day spas that will competently pet those barking dogs, but the adventurous tourist should take what locals insist is the truly authentic route: Find a salon in which the masseurs are blind. Skeptically, you make your way to Lulu’s (4), where the sightless experts use intuition to isolate (sometimes with uncomfortable vigor) whatever ails you. Trust them: The after-effects are eye-opening.

Others aren’t as thrilled. Miles of historic 19th century homes known as shikumen rowhouses adorned with stone gates and lush courtyards—were torn down in the 1990s to make way for new projects. To visit the last remaining shikumen, wander the streets of the French Concession. But hurry: Development continues next door on the Shanghai Tower. When it opens in 2014, it’ll be the world’s secondtallest building.

KATE LORENZ REALTOR //

ROCK STEADY Ancient stone sculptures at the Shanghai Museum, left, and a 16th century writing desk on display at the Shikumen Open House 3

DAY THREE Occupying the top floors of the Shanghai World Financial Center, The Park Hyatt in Pudong is the highest hotel in the world. So you opt to start the day there, for a little perspective on Shanghai’s architectural madness. You sip coffee at the infinity pool on the 85th floor and prepare for a walk down Taikang Road Art Street (1) Don’t let the wet laundry hanging from bamboo rods and stray dogs throw you off: This neighborhood is home to a thriving art scene in the process of goingTheglobal.warren of trendy galleries and boho cafes is nearly hidden, but you seek out the alley numbered 210, where collectors and gallerists gather. Here you’ll find Deke Erh Art Center, run by renowned local author and photographer Deke Erh. His collection runs from sublime Tibetan-themed oil paintings to still-wet watercolors by local art idols. The galleries wind around the alleys of Taikang and eventually overwhelm you. You take a seat and get your bearings at a new arrival called Shanghai Cupcake (2), a sugar-dappled bakery and cafe

HENRIETTA HO MARKETING EXECUTIVE // “I love TMSK, a bar that’s the vision of Loretta Hui-Shan Yang, a former Taiwanese actress who has trendy boutique glassware shops in town. But the bar at TMSK is made almost entirely out of colored glass, and there’s a pool filled with floating flowers.” MEAN YOU NO HARM

From Barbie to Bambi, American culture lands in Shanghai // This is a city rich with cultural tradition, but not so rich that it doesn’t enjoy importing some from the West. Take the world’s only Barbie store, a 35,000-squarefoot behemoth, which opened last March stocked with thousands upon thousands of Barbie- and human-size products. The six-ﬂoor playhouse comprises a spa, a chocolate shop and a pink escalator enclosed in a pink tunnel with glowing pink neon lights and speakers blasting a continuous soundtrack of giggling girls. If that sounds like overload, it would be wise to wait for the arrival of the ultimate symbol of Western culture—Disneyland, whose carnival of roller coasters, funnel cakes and adults dressed up as cartoon characters opens in 2014.

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Let your happy feet carry you to the Dongtai Lu antiques market (5), a long stretch of stalls whose chatterbox proprietors are experts at the hard sell. The products range from high-end antiques to Communist kitsch (such as a scale ceramic Chairman and Mrs. Mao relaxing in ceramic armchairs). Don’t be afraid to haggle, and don’t let the shouting of the hawkers throw you off—they’re here to argue. All that spirited commerce gins up an appetite, so you head to Fu 1039 (6), a bistro in a converted 1930s-style clapboard house that’s tucked away in an alley in the French Concession. The food is a mix of classic and nouveau Shanghainese and comes in onerously large portions. You can skip the soup dumplings and go straight to the crispy local smoked herring and drunken chicken poached in shaoxing wine. Just be sure to keep in mind as the waiter offers you another glass of the deceptively smooth shaoxing: It’s the chicken that’s supposed to be drunken, not you. Off to bed.

STANKIEWICZSTEVEBYILLUTRATIONMAP 91 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009 1 1 1 5 8 7 6 4 5 4 23 3 6 4 253 3PD SHANGHAI BOARDING PASS Visit the most populous city in the most populous country with the U.S. airline with the most service to China. United links Shanghai daily with Chicago and San Francisco, with convenient connections to and from dozens of cities beyond. NeihuanElevatedRd. NanpuBridge Fuxing East Rd. FuzhouRd.BeijingWestRd.NeihuanElevatedRd. 0 1 mile THOSE 3 PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Hyatt on the Bund 199 Huang Pu Rd.; Tel: 21-6393-1234 (2) No. 24 24 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu (3) No. 12 12 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu (4) No. 18 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu (5) Din Tai Fung Shop 11A, Building 6, Xintiandi South Block; Tel: 21-6385-8378 (6) Yu Garden 132 An Ren Rd. (7) Shintori Null 2 803 Julu Lu; Tel: 21-5404-5252 (8) JZ Club 46 West Fuxing Rd.; Tel: 21-6431-0269 DAY TWO (1) People’s Square Renmin Ave. near South Xizang Rd. (2) Shanghai Museum 201 Renmin Ave.; 21-6372-5300 (3) Jesse 41 Tianping Rd.; Tel: 21-6282-9260 (4) Lulu’s 597 Fuxing Zhong Rd.; Tel: 21-6473-2634 (5) Dongtai Lu antiques market Dongtai Rd. at Xizang Rd. (6) Fu 1039 Lane 1039 Yu Yuan Rd.; Tel: 21-5237-1878 DAY THREE (1) Taikang Road Art Street Taikang Rd. at Tianzi Fang (2) Shanghai Cupcake Lane 210 Taikang Rd.; Tel: 21-6474-1279 (3) Yang’s Fry-Dumpling 54-60 Wujiang Rd. (4) Fuxing Park Luwan (5) M on the Bund 5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, 7th Floor; Tel: 21-6350-9988 Shanghai• CHINA 2

For your last night, return to the Bund and have an exquisite Chinese-French dinner at M on the Bund (5), the swank restaurant that announced Shanghai’s entrance to the global dining scene 10 years ago. The artichokes and crispy suckling pig make a strong case for continued Franco-Chino relations. Afterward, you amble to the silvery Glamour Bar next door to mingle with the international crowd. They toast one another and their good fortune. As the money and champagne ﬂow, it seems like old times.

This afternoon, bridal couples pose for their official photos, women sing opera accompanied by ﬂutes, tai chi practitioners slowly practice their moves, and couples dance to waltzes on tape. In the corner, in a surprisingly rare public nod to Communism, severe statues of Marx and Engels survey the action.

WHAT A DUMPLING!

that serves the best cupcakes in town—and perhaps all of China. Have a tea, but save the cupcake for later. Lunch comes ﬁrst.

PLANETELMS/LONELYGREGBAIL/PHOTOLIBRARY,MANFREDRAGA/PHOTOLIBRARY,FUSTEJOSEFUNG,TAIDINOFCOURTESYLEFT:TOPFROMCLOCKWISE

A contributing editor at Forbes Life, LAURIE WERNER has tried unsuccessfully to replicate Yang’s Fry-Dumpling’s pork and crab recipe.

OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

GEORGE MICHELL ART GALLERY OWNER //

The perfectly fried dumplings are ﬁlled with intensely ﬂavorful pork doused with a tincture of vinegar and sprinkled with sesame seeds. There are rumors that Yang’s may fall victim to development, but hopefully they’re just rumors. This is a true Shanghai gem.

The city’s signature soup dumpling; crowded Nanjing Lu; strolling in hip Puxi; dining at M on the Bund; and a sample of M’s delectable crispy suckling pig

BUNDTHEONMOFCOURTESYIMAGES,

“A lot of people don’t know about the city’s jazz heritage, but it was really popular here in the ’20s. It stopped during the Cultural Revolution but came up again in the ’90s. Now I like to go to the Cotton Club and the JZ Club, which are restarting the tradition.”

Afterward, you eat the cupcake on the way to the wildly popular Fuxing Park (4), modeled after a Parisian city park, with wide promenades, banks of plane trees and manicured ﬂower beds.

Yang’s Fry-Dumpling (3), on nearby Wujiang Lu, is a simple but sensational dumpling joint. If you arrive during the lunch rush (between noon and two), prepare for a worthwhile wait.

TRAVEL GUIDE Hot Tix is a program of the League of Chicago Theatres. For more information, visit ChicagoPlays.com or call 312-554-9800. Discover the “theatre capital of America!” The Guardian, London HALF-PRICE TICKETS to more than 200 Chicago theaters! Online at Hottix.org CHINA TOURS 5 NIGHTS HONG KONG (AIR & HOTEL) $1099* (Fuel Surcharges Included) 11 DAY GOLDEN ROUTE SUPERVALUE (Beijing, Xi’an, Guilin, Shanghai) MARCH 2010 (LAND ONLY) FROM $1,899* 12 DAY HISTORIC CITIES & YANGTZE SUPERVALUE (Shanghai, Yangtze River, Chongqing, Xi’an, Beijing) MARCH 2010 (LAND ONLY) FROM $1,899* 13 DAY HISTORIC CITIES & YANGTZE GOLD EXPERIENCE (Beijing, Xi’an, Guilin, Yangtze River, Shanghai) SMALL GROUP DEPARTURES MARCH 2010 (LAND ONLY) FROM $3,499* 800-221-7179 www.paciﬁcdelighttours.com

95HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009 Harding Park Golf Course San Francisco’s Finest Tradition Continues Bookwww.presidentscup.comOctober6-11,2009yourTeeTimeatHarding Park today and Play where the pros play. 99 Harding Road, San Francisco, CA 94132 415-664-4690 • www.harding-park.com Please call our sales team at (888) 864-1733 To advertise inTo HEMISPHERESinPleasecallour Visituncrowded,unspoiled Moloka‘i we’re “HawaiianbyNature.” Fromspectacularseacliffstothree-mile beaches,topristinerainforestsanddeep valleys,towide-openspaces. Kayaking,mountainbiking, deep-seafishing,and snorkeling–theisland neverrunsoutof contrastsor surprises. 1-800-800-6367 www.molokai-hawaii.com Ifyouareinto100%purefun, noartificialkicksandallnaturalhighs, cometoMoloka‘i. Book lodging through Crested Butte Vacations and receive FREE lift tickets and a FREE half-day ski or snowboard adult group lesson* 11/24 – 12/16, 2009 *One lesson per adult when staying in a CBMR Property. (800)643-9516 skicb.com TM

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It’s surprisingly affordable to travel this well. For instance, Premier Travel costs as little as $47 from Washington, D.C. to New York City, $56 from Los Angeles to San Francisco, or $167 from San Francisco to Tokyo. To learn more about Premier Travel, or to learn about all the other ways you can use Travel Options by United to customize your next trip, visit united.com/traveloptions.

PREMIER TRAVEL, one of the newest Travel Options by United,SM makes every aspect of your trip more comfortable and convenient. Because Premier Travel isn’t just a single product, it’s several, wrapped up into one enjoyable, affordable package that will help you arrive at your destination refreshed and ready for work or play.

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Looking to stretch your legs, or have more room to open your laptop? Economy Plus® gives you up to 5 inches of extra legroom near the front of the Economy cabin. With Premier Line,SM you can take the fast track through the airport with access to the Premier® check-in line, the priority security line (where available), and priority boarding. Premier Travel also allows you to check two standard bags with no fees, and earn a 25% mileage bonus on your flight. And if you’d like to travel in an even more luxurious fashion, Premier Travel PlusSM offers additional benefits: access to the Red Carpet Club,® a travel oasis with complimentary WiFi, snacks and beverages; and a 100% mileage bonus, allowing you to accumulate miles even faster, getting you closer to your next awards trip. In keeping with the theme of ease and comfort, buying Premier Travel and Premier Travel Plus couldn’t be simpler. You may do so at any time: when booking online at united.com, by selecting “Travel Options” after logging in to “My Itineraries” at united.com, when using EasyCheck-in Online,® or at the airport at an EasyCheck-in® kiosk. Mileage Plus® elite members enjoy many of these benefits every time they fly. In order to preserve their experience, Premier Travel sales are limited.

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Purchase Premier Travel and get: Premier Line. SM Access to the Premier® check-in line, priority security line (where available) and priority boarding. Economy Plus.® Up to 5 inches of extra legroom. Mileage bonus. Earn 25% more Mileage Plus® miles on your ﬂ ight. No checked bag fees. Check 1 or 2 standard bags for free. Purchase Premier Travel Plus and get all of the above plus: Red Carpet Club.® Get club access during your trip. Additional mileage bonus. Earn double Mileage Plus® miles on your ﬂight. How to PremierPremierpurchaseTravelorTravelPlus: Online at united.com When booking By visiting “My Itineraries” When checking in using EasyCheck-in Online® At the airport At an EasyCheck-in® kiosk Economy Plus BonusMileage Premier Travel isn’t just a single product, it’s several…that will help you arrive at your destination refreshed and ready for work or play. ••••••••freeforbagsstandardtwoCheck

THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE

A NON-SURGICAL TECHNIQUE TO FIGHT AGAINST ARTHRITIS AND SPORTS INJURIES

The Knee Diaries: SJ is a 60-year-old male with bone on bone osteoarthritis of the left knee. An X-ray showed arthritis of the knee (X-ray on the left). Patient started receiving treatments at The Center For Regenerative Medicine. Today he is feeling better (X-ray on the right). This is how it works: The physician introduces Cell Therapy into damaged, arthritic cells by means of a precise injection. This process is followed by infrared laser as well as several other modalities including Collateral Artery Flow Exercises (C.A.F.E.), in order to accelerate the process. Depending on tissue damage, severity of the condition and the size of the joint that needs to be injected, people usually need a series of 1 to 6 treatments to improve. There is usually no down time, and people can go back to their usual activities or work immediately. The treatments can help most musculoskeletal problems such as low back pain, neck pain, knee pain, shoulder pain, whiplash, sciatica, tendinitis, sprain, strains, torn ligaments and cartilage damage.

Located at 9573 Harding Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, The Center For Regenerative Medicine includes a team of professionals that are dedicated to improve your quality of life, paving the way to enhance the science of non-surgical orthopedic medicine. World champions, sports legends, professional and amateur athletes, dancers, and people with just plain pain and arthritis go to The Center For Regenerative Medicine for non-surgical orthopedic care. Using the facility to improve their condition, thousands of successful cases have been treated over the past nine years.

For more information please visit: International:orwww.arthritisusa.netcall(305)866-8384(305)866-6995

MEDICINE

ENTERTAINMENT 102 Films & Television 109 Audio Programming 124 Crossword 126 Sudoku & INFORMATIONQuiz 112 United Destinations 116 Terminal Diagrams 121 Alliances & Partnerships 122 Customs & Immigration 128 Beverages & Food OCTOBER 2009 PLAY Get cozy with the prehistoric creatures in the latest installment of Ice Age.

OCTOBER 16-31 Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii OCTOBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Tim Gunn’s Guide to Style 30 Rock [T] OCTOBER 16-31 The Ofﬁce [T] Globe Trekker The Simpsons

Frasier [T] House [T] Eureka [T] OCTOBER

OCTOBER

OCTOBER 1-15 and a 16-31 1-15 of the 16-31 Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian 1-15 Anatomy [T] 16-31 and a Half Men [T]

OCTOBER

Frasier [T] House [T] Grey’s

Two

OCTOBER

OCTOBER 1-15 The Brothers Bloom OCTOBER 16-31 Stone of Destiny 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] Top Chef The Ofﬁce [T] OCTOBER 16-31 Two and a Half Men [T] Cities of the Underworld 30 Rock [T]

FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONFILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION “The film doesn’t get dated, I think. It’s more magical. You’re transported elsewhere.” Adrien Brody on The Brothers Bloom, Collider.com

OCTOBER 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] Chuck [T] Cities of the Underworld

OCTOBER 16-31 30 R ock [T] HBO Stand Up Comedy [T] Eli Stone [T]

OCTOBER 1-15 S tone of Destiny OCTOBER 16-31 The Brothers Bloom [S][V] Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii OCTOBER 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] Top Chef The Ofﬁce [T] OCTOBER 16-31 Two and a Half Men [T] Cities of the Underworld 30 Rock [T] OCTOBER 1-15 Ice Ag e: Dawn of the Dinosaurs

Dinosaurs Ice Age 3. El Origen de los Dinosaurios OCTOBER

Eure ka [T] Chuck [T] OCTOBER 1-15 The Bro thers Bloom [S][V] OCTOBER 16-31 Stone of Destiny OCTOBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] The Mentalist [T] Top Chef OCTOBER 16-31 The O ffice [T] Treasure Quest Eure ka [T]HAWAIIAMERICANORTHJFK—SFO/LAXMEXICO&CARIBBEAN OCTOBER 1-15 Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs OCTOBER 16-31 Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian OCTOBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Tim Gunn’s Guide to Style 30 Rock [T] OCTOBER 16-31 The Office [T] Globe Trekker The Simpsons &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. SOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND

OCTOBER 1-15 The Bro thers Bloom [S][V] OCTOBER 16-31 Stone of Destiny

OCTOBER 1-15 Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian

Two

Ice Ag e: Dawn

Half Men [T] Chuck [T] Ugly Betty [T] OCTOBER

[S][V]

OCTOBER 16-31 Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian

STONE

DIRECTED BY Charles Martin Smith Arclight Films 1 hr. 31 min. 1 hr. 45 min.

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM: BATTLE OF THE SMITHSONIAN Night has fallen upon the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.—yet something incredible is stirring as former night guard Larry Daley finds himself lured into his biggest, most imagination-boggling adventure yet. Ben Stiller is accompanied by a cast rounded out by many from the original film and several new characters from history.

ICE AGE: DAWN OF THE DINOSAURS

103HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

FEATURING Ben Stiller, Amy Adams, Owen Wilson

FEATURING Billy Boyd, Charlie Cox, Kate Mara

DIRECTED BY Shawn Levy 20th Century Fox

DIRECTED BY Carlos Saldanha 20th Century Fox 1 hr. 34 min. DESTINYOF

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

THE BLOOMBROTHERS [S][V] Con artists the Bloom brothers are ready to retire after one last grand scam. Younger brother Bloom insinuates himself into the life of Penelope, a bored heiress, who joins the brothers and their “associate,” a sexy explosives expert named Bang Bang on an ocean liner going around the world, Penelope becomes addicted to the illicit thrills, while Bloom begins to wonder if his brother has devised the most dangerous con of his life.

Stone of Destiny tells the story of Ian Hamilton, a dedicated nationalist who reignited Scottish national pride in the 1950s with his daring raid on the heart of English colonialism to bring the Stone of Scone back home. At the heart of Stone of Destiny is the passionate journey to ri rong.

1 hr. 48 min.

The subzero heroes from the worldwide blockbusters Ice Age and Ice Age: The Meltdown are back, on an incredible adventure. This time, they’re beneath the ice, discovering a world of dinosaurs: Sid the Sloth gets into trouble, and the gang, on a mission to save him, ventures into a mysterious underground world, where they battle ﬂora and fauna, run amok and meet a weasel named Buck.

FEATURING Adrien Brody, Rachel Weisz, Mark Ruffalo

DIRECTED BY Rian Johnson Summit Entertainment

VOICES BY Ray Romano, John Leguizamo, Denis Leary

FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMFILMTELEVISIONTELEVISION INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在 747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different line-up before and after the start of each month. If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket. &FILMTELEVISION—B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING CHINAJAPAN & HONG THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONG The Brothers Bloom [S][V] (C) Stone of Destiny (J)(C) Imagine That (J) 童一個夢想 (C) *Easy Virtue (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD only Grey’s Anatomy [T] (J) Eureka [T] (J) Frasier [T] (J) Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C) Eureka [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S] (J)(C) Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C) Eureka [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C) Eureka [T} (C) / Frasier [T] (C) DISCOVERY Treasure Quest (C) NextWorld (C) Time Warp (C) BBC WORLD Exploring Malaysia (J) / Click (J) HARDtalk (J) / Peschardt’s People (J) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S] (J)(C) E asy Virtue (J)(C) BBC WORLD Exploring Malaysia (J) Click (J) HARD t alk (J) Peschardt’s People (J) Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong S tar Trek [V] (J)(C) State of Play [V] (J)(C) Grey’s Anatomy [T] (J) Eureka [T] (J) Frasier [T] (J) BBC WORLD Exploring Malaysia (J) Click Peschardt’sHARDtalk(J)(J)People (J) The Bro thers Bloom [S][V] (J)(C) Stone of Destiny (C) Imagine That (J) 童一個夢想 (C) Easy Virtue (J)(C) Ice Ag e: Dawn of the Dinosaurs 冰河世紀 3 : 大威龍駕到 (J) Night at the Museum: Battle o f the Smithsonian (J) 博物馆奇妙夜 2 (C) The Proposal (C) *St ate of Play [V] (J)(C) * East Coast/ORD flights only Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs (J) Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian (J) 博物馆奇妙夜2 (C) The Proposal (C) State of Play [V] (J)(C) Star Trek [V] (J)(C) BBC WORLD Exploring Malaysia (J) / Click (J) / HARDtalk (J) / Peschardt’s People (J) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City EASTBOUND WESTBOUND Grey‘s Anatomy [T] (G) NCIS [T][V] (G) 30 Rock [T] The Brothers Bloom [S][V] Die Brüder Bloom (G) Stone of Destiny (G) Imagine That (G) *Easy Virtue *West Coast only House [T] (G) The Mentalist [T] The Big Bang Theory [T] Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs Ice Age 3—Die Dinosaurier sind los(G) Night at the Museum: Battle of the NachtsSmithsonianimMuseum 2 (G) The Proposal (G) *State of Play [V] (G) *West Coast only The Bro thers Bloom [S][V] (G) Stone of Destiny Imagine That (G) Easy Virtue The Mentalist [T] Top Chef The O ffice [T] Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs (G) Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian (G) The Proposal (G) St ate of Play [V] (G) Chuck [T] Cities of theClickUnderworldAUSTRALIAGERMANY

1 hr. 38 min.

EASY VIRTUE

GHOSTS GIRLFRIENDSOF PAST [S]

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

FEATURING Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto, Zoe Saldana DIRECTED BY J.J. Abrams Paramount Pictures 2 hr. 1 min.

FEATURING Eddie Murphy, Nicole Ari Parker, Vanessa Williams DIRECTED BY Karey Kirkpatrick Paramount Pictures

FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Ryan Reynolds DIRECTED BY Anne Fletcher Touchstone Pictures 1 hr. 48 min.

FEATURING Jessica Biel, Colin Firth, Kristin Scott Thomas

1 hr. 47 min.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

Photographer Connor Mead loves freedom, fun and women—in that order. His mockery of romance is a buzz-kill for his brother, Paul, on the eve of Paul’s wedding. Just when it looks like Connor may ruin the wedding, he is visited by the ghosts of his former jilted girlfriends, who take him on an odyssey through his failed relationships.

THE PROPOSAL Margaret, a high-powered book editor, faces deportation to her native Canada, so she says she’s engaged to her assistant, Andrew. He agrees to play along, and she heads to Alaska to meet his family, where she ﬁnds herself in one comedic situation after another.

DIRECTED BY Stephan Elliott Sony Pictures

STAR TREK [V] The story chronicles the early days of James T. Kirk and his fellow USS Enterprise crewmembers at Star Fleet Academy, with adventures stretching from earth to Vulcan. Baby Spock is logical and Scotty complains about the ship’s overworked engines. Kirk and Spock are brought center stage as the ﬁlm tracks how they became ofﬁcers aboard the Enterprise

An Englishman marries an American divorcee in the South of France and then must face his family. Based on the play by Noel Coward, which was ﬁrst adapted by Alfred Hitchcock, Easy Virtue is the epitome of British wit. The cast is led by Colin Firth, Kristin Scott Thomas and—as the American interloper—Jessica Biel. The result is a wicked, high-toned comedy.

FEATURING Matthew McConaughey, Jennifer Garner, Breckin Meyer DIRECTED BY Mark Waters New Line Cinema

105HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

IMAGINE THAT Eddie Murphy stars as a successful financial executive who has more time for his BlackBerry than his sevenyear-old daughter. When he has a crisis of confidence and his career starts going down the drain, he finds the solution to all his problems in his daughter’s imaginary world. As his career rebounds, though, will he manage to balance his priorities?

STATE OF PLAY [V] A rising congressman and a journalist are embroiled in a case of seemingly unrelated killings. Russell Crowe portrays the D.C. reporter who untangles a mystery of murder and collusion that connects to a young politician, who is the future of his political party. The investigation reveals a cover-up that threatens to shake the nation’s power structures to their core.

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

FEATURING Russell Crowe, Ben Afﬂeck, Rachel McAdams DIRECTED BY Kevin Macdonald Universal Pictures 2 hr. 1 min. 1 hr. 37 min.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

THE SIMPSONS “Papa Don’t Leech” Marge and Homer aid country singer Lurleen Lumpkin by reuniting her with her deadbeat father.

Leonard is concerned when his date with Penny ends abruptly and she starts blowing him off. When told the truth, Sheldon would rather move out than keep her reasons a secret from Leonard.

THE OFFICE [T] “Golden Ticket” Michael asks Dwight to be the scapegoat for a business idea that has backﬁred badly on him. But when an unexpected upside emerges, Dwight still takes credit and Michael becomes furious.

GLOBE TREKKER “Great Natural Wonders” From the deepest oceans to the highest mountains, from lush rainforests to arid deserts, in extremes of heat and cold, explore the greatest natural wonders in the world.

TIM GUNN’S GUIDE TO STYLE “Meredith”

TOP CHEF “Showing Your Craft” Tom Colicchio takes it home to his very first restaurant, as the chefs are asked to serve more than just judges—although the customers’ opinions may make them long for the tried-and-true.

THE BIG BANG THEORY [T] “The Bad Fish Paradigm”

&FILMTELEVISION

30 ROCK [T] “The Bubble” Liz feels uncomfortable with her unusually handsome new boyfriend; Tracy quits the show to avoid negotiating a new contract; and Jenna tries to cut her hair for publicity and attention.

TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

Years of working in D.C.’s political world have left Meredith’s wardrobe ultra-conservative and boring. Now that she’s moved to New York, Meredith has decided to ﬁnd her own style.

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

Book your ﬂ ight at united.com with your Visa card, and you could win a trip for two to the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games courtesy of Visa. You have a chance to win one of four trips for two to the Olympic Winter Games, or one of twenty prizes of 50,000 United Mileage Plus® miles. Go to united.com/teamusa to register your Mileage Plus number or to sign up for one. Then, every time you book a ﬂight on united.com with your registered United Mileage Plus number and your Visa ® card between 10/1/09 and 11/15/09 and complete your travel by 12/1/09, you could win a trip you’ll never forget.

NO PURCHASE OR OBLIGATION NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN the United & Visa Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games Sweepstakes. NON-PURCHASE ENTRIES AND PURCHASE ENTRIES HAVE AN EQUAL CHANCE OF WINNING. Open only to legal residents of the fifty (50) U.S. and the D.C., 18 years of age or older as of 10/01/09. The Sweepstakes begins at 12:00:00 a.m. P.T. on 10/01/09, and ends at 11:59:59 p.m. P.T. on 11/15/09. Register your United Mileage Plus membership number and use it when you book a flight on united.com with your Visa card between 10/1/09 and 11/15/09. All eligible flights must be completed by December 12/01/09. For details on how to enter without purchase, registration or mileage account, see Official Rules, which govern this sweepstakes at www.united.com/teamusa. Estimated odds of winning a Grand Prize are 1:95,000; odds of winning a First Prize are 1:19,000; however, the actual odds of winning a prize depend upon the total number of eligible entries received. Void in Puerto Rico and where prohibited. The Sponsors of this Sweepstakes are United Airlines, Inc., 77 West Wacker Drive, Chicago, IL 60601 and Visa U.S.A. Inc., P.O. Box 8999, San Francisco, CA 94128-8999. 36USC220506 Visa, Worldwide Partner of the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games and United Airlines, Official Airline Sponsor of the U.S. Olympic Team. © 2009 United Air Lines, Inc. © 2009 Visa U.S.A. Inc. All Rights Reserved.

T he Olympic Winter Games are coming to Vancouver.

Thanks to Visa, you could be too.

L et United PassPlus® point your business in the right direction. Business can take you anywhere at a moment’s notice, so it’s important to exercise control over your travel. United PassPlus entitles frequent travelers and businesses to: • Fare discounts of up to 25% • Greater flexibility when booking flights • Red Carpet Club ® access • Bonus miles • Mileage Plus ® elite memberships, and more Wherever you venture on business, United PassPlus can make your travels more affordable and rewarding. To learn more or to sign up, visit united.com/passplus . Participating airline partners include: ©2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM. CH. *Live communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. This month, SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents The Bangles. One of the ‘80s biggest bands, The Bangles “tune up” and treat you to a live performance of their hits including “Manic Monday” and “Hazy Shade of Winter” on this episode of the original series Artist Confidential.109HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009 777 2-CABIN A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747757 & 767 2-CABIN 737 17161512111054321687913141819 MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE English From the Flight Deck Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary HitsAdult Contemporary Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Top 20 Hits MOVIE English MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz Top 20 Hits Unavailable From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits MOVIE English Top 20 Hits From the Flight Deck New Age New Age Classic Rock Classic Rock New Alternative ’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits Children’s Programming MOVIE English Top 20 Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Children’s Programming Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits From the Flight Deck ’60s Hits ’60s Hits ’60s Hits’60s Hits’60s Hits ’60s Hits MOVIE English Unavailable Unavailable Unavailable Top 20 Hits Top 20 Hits Blues Classical Pops From the Flight Deck ’80s Hits ’80s Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits Adult Album Rock Adult Album Rock Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Classic Soul Original XM Programs Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents two revealing interviews and performances from original music series “Artist Conﬁdential.” The Bangles treat you to hits “Manic Monday” and “Hazy Shade of Winter.” Singersongwriter Kenny Loggins performs “I’m Alright” and “This Is It.” For more on SIRIUS XM’s “Artist Conﬁdential,” go to sirius.com or xmradio.com.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters

MODERN ADULT HITS It’s the ’90s and no w! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the Dave Matthews Band. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain Whit e T’ s ’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than ever—from singer-songwriters and classic rock to R&B and disco.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Duran Dur an, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dream, K e vin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals. It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s. WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

CLASSICAL POPS Listen to classic al music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati Pops, Andr ea Boc elli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa ’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac

CLASSIC ROCK Hold your lighters in the air. It’ s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater Revival, The Beatles, Pink Flo y d, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

NEW AGE Spa is a plac e o f peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, ﬂowing music.

ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO CHANNELS & ARTISTS

NEW ALTERNATIVE The lat est alt ernative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway play s the v ery latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Wee zer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Plac e Live features award-winning original content blended with a music mix of the most popular kids’ movie and TV soundtracks, plus Children’s Programming’s recording artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inﬂight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

111HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS

The Blend is the musical soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton, John Mellencamp

’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits surﬁn’ tunes, “girl groups,” the British invasion, Woodstock. Featuring legendary DJ Cousin Brucie. WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan

TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 is the world’s ﬁrst fully interactive hit music experience, playing just the songs you vote for. Cast your vote anytime at 20on20.xmradio.com; then plug in and hear what’s hot. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Black Eyed Peas, Fall Out Boy, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Kanye West

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapolisDesSpringfieldPierre Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150Miles 050100150200Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle ChadronAlliance Alamosa Scottsbluff Cortez Cheyenne Worland LiberalDodge City FargoDickinsonKearney Farmington GilletteGarden City Hays Laramie North Platte Pueblo Riverton Rock Springs Sheridan Williston LakePage/Powell CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ Casper Durango FresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperial Monterey Oxnard San Luis SantaObispoMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Huron Show Low Mexico City Billings Salina Manhattan Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend Kapalua Great Bend McCook Hilo MoabVernal SidneySaskatoonLewistown Miles City WolfGlasgowPoint Prescott MercedVisalia LakeMoses Regina ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United Route United Express Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner • Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Cities served by Star Alliance members Time zone boundary UNITED HUB Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Greenville/SpartanburgWestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston Columbia Columbus Nashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Greensboro/HighNewarkPoint/Winston-SalemRapidsGrandLexington Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis inneapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South pringfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeState Key West Wilkes ScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta CorningElmira/ Erie Halifax Ottawa PensacolaSarasota/BradentonTallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip Lynchburg New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0100200300400Miles 0100200300400500600Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenvillekansasrthwest RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantownBurlingtonWaynesville FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton London 113HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2009

Sydney Adelaide Brisbane Cairns Gold CoastPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga Cook Portland OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) AucklandMelbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalaSan Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Manag Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Canberra Dalian Saipan ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Code Share route serviced by a United Partner • Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

PhiladelphiaMiami Aruba New YorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCapeTownMadrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna AtlantaDallas Detroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires uatemalaSalvadorCity Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte Malabo JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul 115 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

Roadway CENTERBUS/SHUTTLE To Remote Parking CONCOURSE L CONCOURSECONCOURSEK CONCOURSEHCONCOURSEG F CONCOURSE E ParkingF3RoadwayLOTGarageAF1 E1 B2 B3 B4B5B6B7B8 C9 C3C5C7C1 C4C6C8C2 B9B10B11C11 C10 C15C17 C12C16 C18 C20 C22C24C26C28C30C32C31C19 C21 C23 C25 C27C18AC29 B12B14B15B16B17B18 E1A E2A E2E3 CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE C CONCOURSE M TERMINALTHREE TERMINALTWO ➡ F4 F5 F11 F2 F9F7F14F12F10F8 B22B21B20B19 TerminalInternationalFive TERMINAL ONE B1 F6 E10 H H H H H H Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in bmi Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana UndergroundCheck-inCorridors, Moving Sidewalks Elevated Airport Transit Systems (ATS) ★ United Easy Check-in Medical Center ★ Airport Play Area—Kids on the Fly EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. Hotel Courtesy Shuttle, Pace Bus, Regional Buses, Off-Site Rent-a-Car, Off-Site Parking Shuttle. Follow the overhead signs in Baggage Claim. HOTEL TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKINGDOMESTICYOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Language Assistance (Asian) 800-426-5560 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination ORD

6668B TERMINAL 3 TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 TERMINAL 7 TERMINAL 8 Roadway 70A70B7275A75B7371B71A 80 76747769B 8887868583828184 MezzanineLevel1284B US Airways Ticket Counter (Upper Level)US Airways Club ★ ★ HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONS At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards. Flight canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard. What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we C20 ArrivalsInternationalBuilding Parking UpperTerminalLevel PedestrianWalkway Z GATES D14D16D8D6 CONCOURSE D C27C23C19C17 C24C22C18C16C14C12C8C6C4C2 C3C1 C9C7 D18D20D30D4D2 D3D1 CONCOURSE C Transportation to International Arrivals Building for PassengersWashingtonOnly International Arrivals Facility for (LowerPassengersConnectingLevel) C Connector Tunnel CONCOURSE BCONCOURSE A TERMINAL CONCOURSE A D11D7D5C11 D15 D10 B41B37 B47 B79B45 D23 C26C28 B39 C5 A32A14/16 A4A6A2 A5A3A1 ★ ★ ★ WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United InternationalCheck-inArrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Gate Area Lufthansa Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in ANA Fuji Lounge/Gate Area Austrian Airlines Check-in Austrian Airlines Gate Area SAS Gate Area BWIA ShuttleGateTrain EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. South African Airways US Airways Gates ★ United Easy Check-in US Airways Check-in LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Thai Airways Check-in Air Canada Check-in Air New Zealand Check-in ANA Inter-TerminalCheck-in Shuttle Bus Stop (Arrival Level) Singapore Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Check-in US Airways Gates Asiana Check-in ★ United Easy Check-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. LAXIAD 117HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

6 7 ParkingRoadwayGarage 8 91011 CENTRAL CONCOURSE DIAMONDHEAD EWA TERMINALINTERISLANDCONCOURSE DIAMOND HEAD CONCOURSE GATES 6-11 GATES 14-23 GATES 26-34 GATES 12-13 GATES 24-25 GATESGATES55-6649-54 ★ SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Arrivals and Departures (Domestic) United Premier Check-in United Domestic Check-in United International Check-in & Departure Gates United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite (lower level) Singapore Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Air China Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Airlines Air New Zealand Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club (Third Level) Air New Zealand (Courtyard, Lower Level) ANA (Courtyard, Lower Level) Air Canada Gate Area US Airways Check-in Pedestrian Inter-TerminalCorridorShuttle Bus Stop Medical Center (Courtyard, Lower Level) EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. CONCOURSE A CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE C Terminal EastTerminal West 15 19 2317 21 25 27332931 3735 16 20 2418 22 26 28 3230 3634 39 6159575553514947454341 29 38 6058565452504846444140 42 43 ★ ★ ★ ★ 8381 87859189 57 63 677169 73797577 8280 86849088 92949593 33 35 3028 DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United InternationalCheck-inArrival Processing Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Gate Area Underground Train Medical Center (level six) ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. International Terminal Secure ConnectorDENSFOHNL TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. 68697071 7 73 7574 CONCOURSE F 81808283848586 87908889 87A TERMINAL 3 CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE G(Gates G91-G102) B26 B28B27 B29B30 72 CONCOURSE A TERMINAL 1 (Gates 1-12) 79 78B 78A77B77A76A76B 61 Medical Center ★ United EasyCheck-in ℞ Harmony Pharmacy & Health Center is in the Terminal 3, Concourse F hub DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS

SATELLITE 3 SATELLITE 4 Gates 31-47 SATELLITE South Wing Gates 51-58 Gates 21-25 Gates 11TERMINAL 1 SATELLITE 2 SATELLITE 1 North WingPedestrianTransferTunnel47 44454643424138 5251 55 56 57 373533315832 B300-B303B332-B340 PIERC PIER BPIERA,LEVEL2(GatesA1-A42)PIERA,LEVEL3(GatesA51-A65) Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel B10 C6 C5 C4 B11-B16B20 B22 B23 B30-B35B42B1,B3-B9B2B41 B43 B44 B46B45 B47 B48B28 B27 B25B26 B24 C1-C3 C7-C9 Escalator TERMINAL 1 C8 Train to Terminal 2 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Arrivals Suite United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Senator Club Lufthansa Business Class Lounge Air Canada Check-in Train Station US Airways Gates US Airways Check-in Medical Center TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United and Star Alliance Premier Check-in United and Star Alliance Check-in Air New Zealand (Terminal 2) United Red Carpet Club (Third Floor) United First International Lounge (Fourth Floor) Medical Center ANA Lounge TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 16 18 17 19 21 23 25 27 28 26 31 29 27 11 23 13 20 22 21 19 17 16 18 BUS To/FromTRANSFERTerminals 3, 4 & 5 BUS To/FromTRANSFERTerminals 1, 2, 3 & 5 29 TERMINAL 4 39 41 43 48 50 52 54 4636 9 303234 36403842 35 1 3 574 90 88 86 84 82 80 7876 56 1357 TERMINAL 2 (Closing Early 2009) 5TERMINAL 24 9 12 1114 13 15 2 4 6 8 10 3 5 7 9 40423837 25 7 11 6 8 LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Premier Check-in Arrivals SASLufthansaLoungeCheck-inCheck-inbmiCheck-inStarAllianceDeparture Lounge Flight ConnectionsLHRFRANRT 119HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS US AIRWAYS HUBS CONCOURSE D D17-D26Gates D1-D14Gates D31-D43Gates CONCOURSE A CONCOURSE B B19-B25Gates B9-B17Gates A10-A15Gates A17-A23Gates B6B2B1A3 A5 A8 A7D50-D58Gates LAS VEGAS / MCCARRAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counter PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counters ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. Gates 1-9 Gates 10-19 Gates 20-26 2 Food CourtCONCOURSE E CONCOURSE C CONCOURSECONCOURSEB A CONCOURSEGatesD 2-19 Gates 1-16 Gates 1-13 4 ★ CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counter ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. 1 3 5 7 9 1113CONCOURSE F CONCOURSE E CONCOURSE D CONCOURSE CCONCOURSE BCONCOURSE A EAST TransatlanticGates(AllCarriers) 17161514 CONCOURSE A WEST Continuous1 Shuttle Bus Pickup and Drop-off Between Gates F10 and C16 Gates 18-26 Gates1-16 Gates16-31 GatesGates1-2324-39 ★ PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways International Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counters US Airways Express Check-in US Airways Club and Envoy Lounge ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. TERMINAL 2 5137 ★ Gates INTERNATIONALCONCOURSEB TERMINAL CONCOURSE4 BCONCOURSE A A17-A30Gates A1-A14Gates B1-B14Gates B15-B28Gates PHXPHLLASCLT MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.

ENJOY THE WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE BENEFITS AND PRIVILEGES ON CONTINENTAL AIRLINES. Beginning October 27, 2009, you will be able to earn and redeem miles on Continental’s more than 2,785 daily ﬂights to 265 destinations worldwide. The qualifying ﬂights you take on Continental count toward your elite status in Mileage Plus. Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand AsianaANA SwissSpanairSouthSingaporeShanghaiScandinavianLufthansaLOTEgyptAirContinental*bmiAustrianAIrlinesPolishAirAirlinesAirwaysAirlinesAfricanAirwaysInternationalAir Lines TAP AdriaUSUnitedTurkishTHAIPortugalAirlinesAirwaysAirways(regional member) Blue 1 (regional member) Croatia Airlines (regional member) Mileage Plus Members can earn miles and redeem award travel on all Star Alliance partners. * Continental Airlines will become a Mileage Plus partner airline beginning October 27, 2009, for accrual and redemption on all of their flights AFRICA PACIFICASIA CANADACARIBBEANEUROPE AMERICALATIN MEXICO MIDDLEEAST UNITEDSTATESSTAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS Frequent flier benefits not offered on all flights. Contact United Reservations for details. Aer Lingus Air VirginTAMTACAQatarJetIslandHawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlinesAirAirwaysAirwaysGroupBlue AFRICA PACIFICASIA CANADA EUROPE MEXICO MIDDLEEAST UNITEDSTATES EARN REDEEM Operated Gulfstreamby REGIONAL ALLIANCES CARIBBEAN AMERICALATIN FREQUENTBENEFITSFLIER 121HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Número de pasaporte 7. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 8. País donde reside 9. Ciudad donde tomó el avión 10. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 11. Fecha del visado (Diá/Mes/Año) 12. Dirección durante su estancia en los EE.UU. (Número, Calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Apellido 15. Nombre 16. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 17. País de ciudadania ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded ammunition,firearms,gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, fish, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país.Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 123HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot. Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

*Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) Número de Pasaporte 7. Línea Aérea y Número de vuelo 8. País de residencia Ciudad de embarque 10. Domicilio en Estados Unidos (número y calle) 11. Ciudad y Estado 12. Apellido 13. Nombre 14. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 15. Nacionalidad SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

*Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , ﬁrmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

CROSSWORD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 65 ACROSS 1. Suite spot 6. Gardener’s need 11. Home paper 15. Kind of aerobics 19. Something in the air 20. Some lions’ features 21. Land measure 22. Get wind of 23. Former CIA director George 24. Room at the top 25. Not us 26. “ bitten, twice shy” 27. Money drawer 29. Tiny part 31. Like some humor 33. Government building 36. Not so hot 37. Shopping place 38. Manual calculator 39. Traffic stopper 40. Ointment ingredient 43. Clever comment 44. Object 46. It’ll knock you out 48. Tendon 50. A deadly sin 52. Grow old 53. Symbol of strength 54. Listlessness 55. Little piggy 56. Hidden means of support? 57. Scattered 60. Make, as money 61. Kind of cake 63. Song holder, once 66. Little bit 67. Unbending 70. Small jar 71. Not often 73. Shock’s partner 74. Eating place 77. It's a snap 79. Arm or leg 81. Cold dessert 82. Sanction 83. Venom source 86. Slow mover 88. A small dinner 89. Mongrel 90. Type of fish 92. Catlike 93. Matter of debate 96. Tiny creature 98. Kind of testing 99. Make bigger 101. Roam 103. Outstanding 105. Pressing need? 106. Eagle’s nest 107. Side glance 108. Pour out 111. Snail mail requirement 112. Instrument for Orpheus 113. Claim 114. Choir part 116. Unexpected sports outcome 119. Extreme 123. Oversee 124. Rod attachment 125. Gulch 126. Tartan 127. Forms of creative beauty 128. Sailing vessel with two masts 129. Leg part 130. Ballroom dance DOWN 1. Pillbox, e.g. 2. Mine find 3. Large amount 4. Nauseant 5. An imaginary line 6. Like some talk 7. Wheel of Fortune’s Sajak 8. Picnic crasher 9. Defroster 10. One that got away 11. No longer in 12. Repeat performance? 13. Poetic conjunction 14. Abase 15. A hyphen 16. Carnival sight 17. Apiece 18. The hunted 28. Give the slip to 30. In perfect condition 32. Became an issue 33. Send the kids for the summer 34. Scrub 35. Place for a barbecue 36. Radial, e.g. 37. Sell 39. Some lumps 40. Car dealer’s offering 41. Present from birth 42. Kind of network 45. Foal’s mother 47. Cowboy’s companion 49. Breezy 51. Sandwich shop 56. Memory unit 57. Prepare for surgery 58. Stop 59. Black ink item 62. Play part 64. Certain horse race 65. Graze 67. Lively dance 68. Pang 69. Stay 70. Marine 72. Expression of pride? 75. Name 76. Not always a home 77. Feather in one’s cap 78. “Take this!” 80. Table game 84. Alternative to a convertible 85. Lose one’s cool 87. Live and 89. Hamster’s home 90. Chapter 11 91. Like some beds 94. Carbamide 95. Winter head warmer BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ©97. In use 100. Club 102. Baby bottle part 104. Spanish dish 106. Castaway’s site 107. Adjust 108. Spreadsheet numbers 109. At any time 110. Small change 111. Fret 115. Grazing area 117. Total 118. Relative of an ostrich 120. Beachgoer’s goal 121. Fix 122. Hoopla 124 OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED .C OM MONOPOLY Just type in www.shoebuy.com/united to start enjoying FREE Shipping And FREE Returns Over 800 brands and hundreds of thousands of product reviews The World’s Largest Site For ShoesSHOEbuy.com®

D. “Gangsta’s Paradise”/“Wonderwall”/“We Are Family”

Name the artists behind each of the three popular songs. Clue: Their names are phonetically linked. For example: “I Believe I Can Fly”/“Since U Been Gone”/“I Got You Babe” results in R. Kelly/Kelly Clarkson/Sonny and Cher. “Mellow Yellow”/“Runnin’ with the Devil”/“Freebird” B. “Love Is a Battleﬁeld”/“It’s the End of the World as We Know It (And I Feel Fine)”/ “The Real Slim Shady” C. “(You Gotta) Fight for Your Right (To Party)”/“End of the Road”/“The Safety Dance”

E. “Holding Back the Years”/“Give It Away”/“When a Man Loves a Woman”

G. “This Land Is Your Land”/“Joy to the World”/“Sister Christian”

ANSWERS 1.

2. THREE DEGREES OF MUSICAL SEPARATION

E. “For the toast at the bachelor party dinner, the groom rises and with him all the men at the table. He raises his glass and says, simply, ‘To the .’” 2. 3.

B. “An occasional game of bridge, canasta, backgammon, or even poker can be enjoyable, but the best after-meal entertainment is stimulating .”

3. ETIQUETTE FLASHBACK Fill in the blanks from these quotes lifted out of an etiquette book—from 1963.

A. “During the meal at an informal dinner party, are usually offered. At formal meals they never are, no matter how much food there is.”

C. “In summer, the is one of the most popular forms of entertaining and one in which the men of the family shine.”

D. “Tea is never, never served in the kitchen and passed on a tray, and it should never be made with . These little horrors do a great disservice to tea.”

F. “Tainted Love”/“My Heart Will Go On”/“Runaround Sue”

QUIZ THE NUMBERS GAME // BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN SUDOKU 1.A.WIENERSCHNITZELB.CLAMSCASINOC.SPANAKOPITAD.CROQUEMONSIEURE.PADTHAI F.CHICKENTIKKAMASALA2A.DONOVAN/VANHALEN/LYNYRDSKYNYRD;B.PATBENATAR/ R.E.M./EMINEMC.BEASTIEBOYS/BOYZIIMEN/MENWITHOUTHATSD.COOLIO/OASIS/SISTER SLEDGEE.SIMPLYRED/REDHOTCHILIPEPPERS/PERCYSLEDGEF.SOFTCELL/CÉLINEDION/ DIONG.WOODYGUTHRIE/THREEDOGNIGHT/NIGHTRANGER 3.A.SECONDHELPINGSB.CONVERSATIONC.BARBECUED.TEABAGSE.BRIDEMODERATEEASYHARD 1.2.3. SOMETIMES IT REALLY IS WHAT YOU KNOW // BY NOAH TARNOW ASSOCIATIVE PROPERTY 126 OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED.COM PUZZLESPUZPUZ©SUDOKUBIGQUIZTHING.COM.ATQUIZONINFOMORE 1. CONFUSED CUISINE Each item features the name of a well-known international dish, but as an anagram (the letters are scrambled). It is accompanied by three of its ingredients. Name the dish. For instance: a conceited trufﬂe (pasta, butter, Parmesan), is fettuccine alfredo. A. Entices zen whirl (veal, lard, bread crumbs) B. Nasal comics (mollusks, bacon, lemon juice) C. An okapi spat (spinach, olive oil, feta cheese) D. Unique rec rooms (bread, ham, Gruyère) E. A phat id (rice noodles, peanuts, ﬁsh sauce) F. Ahem—I lack a knit sack (chicken, tomatoes, yogurt)

HAVE DRINKREFRESHINGA NONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES WINES • Soft Drinks • Tonic Water • Seltzer Water • Natural Spring Water • Milk • Tea • Assorted Fruit Juices • Starbucks Regular and Decaffeinated Coffees BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS UNITED FIRST, BUSINESS AND ECONOMY Starbucks Coffee Coke Diet Coke Sprite Sprite Zero Ginger Ale Bloody Mary Mix Apple and Tomato Juices Spring Water Selections may vary on United Express flights. It is United policy on all flights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international flights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin. Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. BEER • Miller Genuine Draft • Miller Lite • Heineken Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some international flights. COCKTAILS • Bloody Mary • Screwdriver SPIRITS • Bacardi Rum • Canadian Club Reserve • Dewar’s White Label Scotch • Finlandia Vodka • Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey • Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey • Tanqueray Gin LIQUEURS • Courvoisier VSOP Cognac • Bailey’s Irish Cream • Kahlúa The following are available only on international flights: • Absolut Vodka • Chivas Regal Scotch • Di Saronno Amaretto • Glenlivet (premiumScotchcabins only) &FOODBEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK Beverage service is available on most United flights. Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic flight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6 on most flights. United First and United Business international flights, please refer to the printed menu. UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS DOMESTIC FLIGHTS You will be offered a choice of red and white wines. Selections may include the following: RED • Trapiche Malbec 2008 Mendoza • Bushman’s Gully Shiraz 2008 Southeastern Australia WHITE • Canyon Road Chardonnay 2007 California • Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Western Cape THE FOLLOWING IS AVAILABLE ON SELECT UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS: SPARKLING WINE • Bodegas Covides Duc de Foix Brut UNITED ECONOMY ALL FLIGHTS RED • Redwood Creek Cabernet Sauvignon WHITE • Redwood Creek Chardonnay

EACH SANDWICH IS SERVED WITH A BAG OF CHIPS. SMOKED TURKEY AND SWISS CLUB WRAP Thin-sliced mesquite turkey breast and turkey bacon, topped with crisp romaine lettuce, cucumber, tomato, red onion and Swiss cheese, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla.

GRILLED ASIAN CHICKEN SALAD Grilled Asian chicken breast served with a blend of radicchio and Napa cabbage along with fresh cilantro, cucumbers and julienne carrots, served with an Asian sesame-ginger dressing.

GRILLED TUSCAN CHICKEN AND SALAMI WRAP Sliced marinated chicken breast, thinly sliced Genoa salami and provolone cheese, topped with baby spinach, shredded Napa cabbage, roasted red tomato and kalamata olives, with a basil garlic-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla. TURKEY, CHEDDAR AND ASPARAGUS WRAP Sliced oven-roasted turkey breast and cheddar cheese, topped with shredded Napa cabbage, baby spinach, asparagus and roasted red tomato, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla.

ENJOY A SNACKBOX OR A FRESH FOOD ITEM. Active and Classic snackboxes are $6; Luxe and Organic are $7; fresh food items are $9. Individual à la carte snack items are available for $3 each on flights two hours and longer. Due to limited space, all snackboxes may not be available on all flights. SNACKBOXES // AVAILABLE ON NORTH AMERICA MAINLINE FLIGHTS OF TWO HOURS AND LONGER. $6–$7* • Stoned Classics Tortilla Chips • Heinz Salsa • Blue Diamond Almonds • Think Fruit PomegranateChocolatePowerBar • Newman’s Own Organic Raisins • Hannah’s Honey Cured Turkey Stick • Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips • Oreo Cookies • Jelly Belly Gourmet Jelly Beans • Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers • Sparrer Beef Salami • Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Rondele Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips • Mediterranean or Vinaigrette Olives • Wild Garden Hummus Dip • Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks • Ashers Dark Chocolate Pretzel • Late July Organic Cheddar Cheese Crackers • Terra Nostra Organic Dark Chocolate Square • Kettle Valley Organic Fruit Snack • Nature’s Path Organic Pumpkin Flaxplus Granola • Bare Fruit Organic Cinnamon Apple Chips LUNCHSANDWICHESANDDINNER SALADS Smoked Turkey and Swiss Club Turkey and Bacon Cobb Salad United First and United willbetweenIntra-PacifitravelersBusinessonflightsbetweenHonoluluandJapan,selectcflightsoriginatingfromJapan,andUnitedFirsttravelersHawaiiandtheU.S.mainlandenjoylegendaryTraderVic’scuisine. FRESH FOOD ITEMS // ONE CHOICE AVAILABLE ON SELECT FLIGHTS OF FIVE HOURS AND LONGER. $9* Snackbox contents may vary slightly based on product availability. None of the items in the snackboxes contain peanuts, peanut flour or peanut oil. Some products have been manufactured in a facility that also processes peanuts and are labeled as such. Flight attendants will advise which selections are available on your flight.

ALL SALADS ACCOMPANIED BY A SELECTION OF FRESH, SEASONAL MIXED FRUIT.

129 ACTIVE CHOICEMENU ACTIVE CHOICEMENU CLASSIC CHOICEMENU LUXE CHOICEMENU ORGANIC HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | OCTOBER 2009 • banana miniloaf • raspberry breakfast cake • apple Danish BREAKFAST An assortment of gourmet cheese and crackers, accompanied by a seasonal fresh-fruit mixture, fresh yogurt and one of the following: *United flights within North America, and to/from South America and transAtlantic destinations, accept credit/debit cards only. United Express flights will only accept cash. • Lay’s Stax Potato Chips • Walkers Shortbread Cookies • Toblerone Chocolate Bar À LA CARTE ITEMS On flights two hours and longer. $3* • Clif Bar Oatmeal Raisin Walnut • Odwalla Banana Nut Granola Bar • Fisher Nut Mix

JULIENNE CHEF SALAD Crisp romaine lettuce topped with Black Forest ham, julienne ovenroasted turkey breast, Napa cabbage, shredded cheddar cheese, diced tomato, chopped black olives and sliced hard-boiled egg, served with ranch dressing.

TURKEY AND BACON COBB SALAD Crisp romaine lettuce topped with diced roasted turkey, chopped bacon, diced tomatoes, sliced black olives, diced Swiss cheese and hard boiledegg wedges, served with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing.

WHO MICHAEL ST. JACQUES, OFM / 55 / Franciscan brother, student WHY I’M FLYING I just ﬁnished a year of training with the Franciscans, and we couldn’t really leave the property. I got sprung yesterday, so now I’m off to Pennsylvania to go camping with my sister and godson.

WHAT I’M WEARING It’s called a habit. We have the choice to wear it, and a lot of us make a real effort to because it acts as a magnet. People tell me things they’ve never told anyone. Complete strangers will confess something they did thirty years ago and ask if God can forgive them.

“Completestrangers will confess something they did thirty years ago and ask if God can forgive them.”

WHEN I’M FINISHED STUDYING I’m going to continue working with at-risk teens, which is what I was doing before I joined the Franciscans. I’m also hoping to get involved with a program in Chicago that helps homeless teens ﬁnd resources to change their situation.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND GETTING TO KNOW YOU

in transit OCTOBER 2009 | UNITED .C OM 130 PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON

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United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine October 2009

Articles inside

Beverages & Food

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld

discusses how United gets million people a year where they want to go.

To Hall and Back A trip to the baseball mecca in Cooperstown creates an unlikely bond between a baseball obsessive and his skeptical girlfriend.

There Will Be Blood Readers are

Higher Power Racers have tackled Pikes Peak since 1916. This year, a veteran attempts a record in a 800-horsepower Ford Fiesta.

The Fish Less Eaten Eco-conscious sushi afi cionados are fi nding tasty and sustainable alternatives to the endangered bluefi n tuna.

Wonder Bread A Massachusetts mom turns a hobby into a national charity that offers hope and support, one loaf at a time.

On the Water Front Powered by

Something Old, Something New

The Early Riser Enigmatic R&B singer Meshell Ndegeocello throws listeners for another loop with

Jean Therapy Gap designer Patrick Robinson is singing the blues—and reinventing affordable

Connections United is upgrading cabins to upgrade your comfort.

Whereabouts Actor Ben Kingsley fi nds comfort in Prague’s history.

Contributors

Goods Gizmos and gear

Notes From All Over Hemingway’s

Voices Senior V.P. Kevin Knight

News Where to stay, what to see when to go