United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine September 2010 by Ahmed Aamir

A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER PERFECTTHREEDAYS: PARIS STYLE SPECIAL WITH MICHIGANINANNAHILFIGER,TOMMYJOHNVARVATOSANDWINTOURTHEHOTSEATTHESAGAOFFOOTBALL’SRICHRODRIGUEZ PLUS: ROBERT PLANT, THE HARRY POTTER THEME PARK, AUTHOR JONATHAN FRANZEN AND ADVENTURESNINTENDO’SIN3-D

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Committed food fanatics, Parisians cheerfully let lunch stretch to three hours whenever possible. 3PD | P. 82 Sept. STAR POWER NASA astronaut Scott Kelly lands at Moscow’s Star City training center. BY JAKE RUDNITSKY PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS 64 contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM FERT/PICTURETANKBRUNOBYPHOTOGRAPH Café Bastille in Paris’ Merci Boutique YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 76 8272 THE HEMI Q&A: ANNA WINTOUR The editor in chief of Vogue on the business of fashion BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER ROCK STEADY Menswear superstar John Varvatos celebrates his company’s 10th birthday at the Milan spring shows. BY AARON GELL THREE PERFECT DAYS: PARIS To make the most of the City of Light, linger over your meals and put on your walking shoes. BY SARAH HORNE PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRUNO FERT/ PICTURETANK

COVER IMAGE Alanna Cavanagh // alannacavanagh.com 4059 WRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 8 Comments 11 Voices A message to fliers 14 Connections What’s new at United 18 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 21 Notes From All Over Harry Potter casts a spell on Orlando; herring costs a pretty penny in the Hague; video games enter the arena of competitive sports in Seoul; the new wave of Harley riders in Sturgis, South Dakota, is decidedly white collar; and Los Angeles residents are nuts for fruit. DIRECTIONS 27 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go 33 Goods 36 Whirlwind Five hours in Miami 39 Hero Tommy Hilfiger has a new passion: combating global poverty. BY LAYLA SCHLACK CULTURE 41 Style Coach goes beyond handbags and opens its first men’s boutique. BY SARAH HORNE 43 The Big Ten Robert Plant, Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps and what else to watch, read and listen to this month 46 Tech Nintendo’s latest device puts 3-D at your fingertips. BY TOM SAMILJAN 48 Whereabouts Novelist Jonathan Franzen gets his culture fix in Berlin. 50 Sports NCAA football coach Rich Rodriguez fumbled when he moved to Michigan. Can he recover? BY JOSH DEAN 55 Industry For Serious Materials, eco-friendly construction is no laughing matter. BY ROD O’CONNOR 59 Food & Drink Chefs Karen Urie Shields and John Shields lure foodies to tiny Chilhowie, Virginia. BY JAY CHESHES 63 Artifact A souvenir from the field PLAY 103 Movies, television and audio programming 114 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 126 Crossword and sudoku 138 Beverages & Food 142 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? KLEIN-DAVISSTEPHANIEBYPHOTOGRAPH Lamb with red wine foam from Town House UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM comments EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler DESIGNERS Ellie Clayman, Chris MacManus PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matthew Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Oliver Jeffers, Sasha Nialla, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERNS Tana Megalos, Rachel Rohinsky PHOTO INTERN Alexis McNutt EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stephen Andrews ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Greg Maddock ADVERTISING SALES MANAGERS Christa Abdou, Andres Conde, Catherine Hanson, Ari Kasimov, David Levy, Danny Litton, David Low REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVE HAWAII Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 N.E ACCOUNT MANAGERS MARCUS GUEST, BRIAN MCLAUGHLIN, LIZ MORINA, SCOTT STONE AUTOMOTIVE ACCOUNT MANAGER CARL MISCHKA LOS ANGELES ACCOUNT MANAGER MARINA CHETNER HAWAII TERRITORY MANAGER ROBERT PRODUCTIONWIEGANDMANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLERS Grace Rivera, Stacy Willis MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER Nikkole Wyrick Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor afﬁliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

SARAH HORNE Paris (“Three Perfect Days,” page 82) is like a second home to Horne, who is an editor at Page Six Magazine “I spent a year living in France,” she says. “Whenever I’m in Paris, one of my favorite pastimes is leering at the taxidermy curiosities at Deyrolle.”

PETER EDWARDSFRANK “Moscow’s Star City space complex (“Star Power,” page 64) was really interesting,” says the photographer, who also contributes to Travel + Leisure and Gourmet. “The name gives the idea that it might be all high-tech, but in fact it is very green and wooded.”

AARON GELL Hemispheres’ editor in chief traveled to Milan to watch John Varvatos mount his spring menswear show (“Rock Steady,” page 76). “I realized it’s probably time to up my fashion game,” he admits. “The Varvatos shades they gave out at the anniversary party are now my prize by all of our Heroes, so we’re thrilled when they strike a chord with our readers as well. Judging by the comments at HemispheresMagazine.com, our proﬁle of Prosper Ndabishuriye (“Building Peace,” July) certainly did. Steve Haas wrote in to say, “Prosper is the real deal!” and Naomi Kamau seconded the notion: “Here in Kenya, [Prosper is] welcome, and personally I am ready to support [him] in any way I can.” Nancy Y. Hazen agreed. “Prosper is right,” she wrote. “We must all work together as a world community and treat each other as brothers and sisters.” We couldn’t have said it better ourselves. Our website was also graced by a visit from Randall Grahm, subject of “The Grape Nut” (July), who writes that his overarching mission in creating hybrids is to change the way terroir is expressed. “Can there be a methodology that leads one to a greater ampliﬁcation of site characteristics?” he asks. “I do hope to have a bit of fun getting to the ever-receding end point.” We’ll be following closely!

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 ? Hero’s ContributorsWelcome 8 HEMISPHERES WHEEL WORLD THE GREATEST ROAD TRIPS EVER THREE PERFECT DAYS: AMSTERDAM BRET EASTON ELLIS, VINTNER RANDALL GRAHM AND MAD MEN’S ELISABETH MOSS THE MAVERICK TALKING TRASH WITH BILLIONAIRE MARK CUBAN COOKOUT! ONE MAN’S GLOBAL BBQ ODYSSEY // // //

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SEPTEMBER IS HUNGER ACTION MONTH and Feeding America, the nation's leading hunger-relief charity, is inviting you to join the fight against hunger. Today more than 49 million Americans — 1 in 6 people — struggle with hunger. You can help by donating United Mileage Plus miles, contributing food or funds, volunteering, and by reaching out to your legislators to raise awareness for Americans in need. Donate miles at feedingamerica.org/united or visit hungeractionmonth.org to learn more ways to help. 1 in 6 ©2010 Feeding America. All rights reserved. Feeding America is a 501 (c)(3) non-profit recognized by the IRS. Official Sponsor of Hunger Action Month TURN MILES INTO MEALS. Join us in supporting Hunger Action Month and donate your United miles to help fight hunger in America.

Knowledge Is voicesPower

INTEGRATING CUTTING-EDGE technology with its day-to-day operations to improve the customer experience is an ongoing focus for United. Some of that is visible to the United customer— self-service kiosks, mobile check-in, baggage tracking and proactive email notiﬁcations for things like itinerary changes—but much of the tech magic takes place behind the scenes. The newest generation of technology, says Keith Halbert, United’s Senior Vice President and Chief Information Officer, allow us to focus on improving the experience of the United ﬂier. “I got into the airline industry because it’s exciting and fast paced,” Halbert says, “and I really love working with customers.” An Orlando native, Halbert grew up a self-described “Air Force brat,” who has traveled extensively and spent most of his career in the transportation industry. He joined United in the winter of 2008. What attracted him to United is its focus on innovation. “There are tremendous opportunities at United that can be obtained through technology,” Halbert says. “We have a focused leadership team that’s using technology to improve the overall travel experience for customers. That is truly exciting to me.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

The first priority at United, Halbert says, is to operate a safe, clean and ontime airline. To refine this, his team is focusing on several new technologies that are already being rolled out. The first is a new flight-planning system that optimizes flight paths. “The impact for our customers is that the routes will be optimal based on the latest conditions, and that means that they will get to their destinations on time,” Halbert says. “That’s a great benefit for United fliers because it’ll ensure they get to their destination as scheduled.”

Keith Halbert with Suresh ManagingKrishnan,Director,CustomerChannelDelivery

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPH FOR UNITED CHIEF INFORMATION OFFICER AND SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT KEITH HALBERT, IMPLEMENTING NEXT-GENERATION TECHNOLOGY MEANS HELPING CUSTOMERS HAVE A HASSLE-FREE TRAVEL EXPERIENCE. // BY MIKE GUY

Another system deals smartly with unforeseeable delays. “We call it ‘service recovery technology,’” Halbert says. “In the event of a major weather situation, this technology allows us, in real time, to reschedule the airline while focusing on minimizing cancellations, delays and equipment changes, and rescheduling ﬂights in a way that preserves our commitment to the customer.” To

This communication contains “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the safe harbor provisions of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995 that are not limited to historical facts, but reflect Continental’s and UAL’s current beliefs, expectations or intentions regarding future events. Words such as “may,” “will,” “could,” “should,” “expect,” “plan,” “project,” “intend,” “anticipate,” “believe,” “estimate,” “predict,” “potential,” “pursue,” “target,” “continue,” and similar expressions are intended to identify such forward-looking statements. These forward-looking statements include, without limitation, Continental’s and UAL’s expectations with respect to the synergies, costs and other anticipated financial impacts of the proposed transaction; future financial and operating results of the combined company; the combined company’s plans, objectives, expectations and intentions with respect to future operations and services; approval of the proposed transaction by stockholders and by governmental regulatory authorities; the satisfaction of the closing conditions to the proposed transaction; the timing of the completion of the proposed transaction; and other factors that are set forth in the “Risk Factors” section, the “Legal Proceedings” section, the “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” section and other sections of UAL’s and Continental’s Annual Reports on Form 10-K, subsequent Quarterly Reports on Form 10-Q, recent Current Reports on Form 8-K, and other SEC filings. All subsequent written and oral forward-looking statements concerning Continental, UAL, the proposed transaction or other matters and attributable to Continental or UAL or any person acting on their behalf are expressly qualified in their entirety by the cautionary statements above. Neither Continental nor UAL undertakes any obligation to publicly update any of these forward-looking statements to reflect events or circumstances that may arise after the date hereof.

“We’re running a great airline and also delivering a seamless ﬂying experience that customers really want.”

voices

IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR INVESTORS AND STOCKHOLDERS

Not to mention customizing a flier’s trip. Using the new capabilities on united.com, the mobile phone app and the check-in kiosk, customers can upgrade to Economy Plus or a Premium seat, or pre-order specialty meals. “They can also opt to be a premium passenger for a day,” Halbert adds. “That means they can get in the first class line, and get one-day access to the Red Carpet Club.” When United’s predictive software is able to accurately predict delays, it will know if you’re expecting a long layover, and can ask if you’d like to join the Red Carpet Club for the day. “There are times when weather makes delays inevitable. Things like that reduce the pain of waiting out a storm,” Halbert says. As United works to complete its merger with Continental Airlines, he expects that the technological advances are going to multiply. “The merger presents an exciting opportunity to take each airline’s focus on the customer and technologies and blend them together,” Halbert says. “It’s going to be a great partnership, and our customers are really going to benefit from it.”

In addition to the online check-in available at united.com, a new mobile phone application enables customers to check in and get ﬂight details wirelessly. “In the past few months, we’ve also introduced the electronic boarding pass,” Halbert says. “So ﬂiers can go directly to the gate with their phone. It’s all about streamlining the customer’s experience.”

For Halbert, building the technology was the difficult part. Now, the real fun begins. “We’re running a great airline and also delivering a seamless ﬂying experience that customers really want,” Halbert says. “I believe that with these new technologies, in the end the customer really can have it all. I’m excited!”

This communication does not constitute an offer to sell or the solicitation of an offer to buy any securities or a solicitation of any vote or approval. The proposed merger of equals transaction between UAL Corporation (“UAL”) and Continental Airlines, Inc. (“Continental”) will be submitted to the respective stockholders of UAL and Continental for their consideration. In connection with the proposed transaction, UAL has ﬁled with the Securities and Exchange Commission (“SEC”) a registration statement on Form S-4 that includes a preliminary joint proxy statement of Continental and UAL that also constitutes a prospectus of UAL. UAL and Continental also plan to ﬁle other documents with the SEC regarding the proposed transaction.

UAL AND CONTINENTAL URGE INVESTORS AND SECURITY HOLDERS TO READ THE PRELIMINARY JOINT PROXY STATEMENT/ PROSPECTUS AND OTHER RELEVANT DOCUMENTS THAT WILL BE FILED WITH THE SEC (INCLUDING THE DEFINITIVE JOINT PROXY STATEMENT/PROSPECTUS) CAREFULLY AND IN THEIR ENTIRETY WHEN THEY BECOME AVAILABLE BECAUSE THEY CONTAIN IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE PROPOSED TRANSACTION. Investors and stockholders may obtain free copies of the preliminary joint proxy statement/prospectus and other documents containing important information about UAL and Continental (including the definitive joint proxy statement/prospectus), once such documents are filed with the SEC, through the website maintained by the SEC at www.sec.gov. Copies of the documents filed with the SEC by UAL will be available free of charge on UAL’s website at www.united.com or by contacting UAL’s Investor Relations Department at (312) 997-8610. Copies of the documents filed with the SEC by Continental will be available free of charge on Continental’s website at www.continental.com or by contacting Continental’s Investor Relations Department at (713) 324-5152. UAL, Continental and certain of their respective directors and executive officers may be deemed to be participants in the solicitation of proxies in connection with the proposed transaction. Information about the directors and executive officers of Continental is set forth in its proxy statement for its 2010 annual meeting of stockholders, which was filed with the SEC on April 23, 2010, and the preliminary joint proxy statement/prospectus related to the proposed transaction, which was filed with the SEC on June 25, 2010. Information about the directors and executive officers of UAL is set forth in its proxy statement for its 2010 annual meeting of stockholders, which was filed with the SEC on April 30, 2010, and the preliminary joint proxy statement/prospectus related to the proposed transaction, which was filed with the SEC on June 25, 2010. These documents can be obtained free of charge from the sources indicated above. Additional information regarding the participants in the proxy solicitation may also be included in the definitive joint proxy statement/prospectus and other relevant materials to be filed with the SEC when they become available.

12 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM do this, United uses real-time event-driven software that, in the future, will predict overall system slowdown hours before a human can. “Before, when we had a major snowstorm, the process of rescheduling everything could take hours. With these new tools, it takes just minutes to rebuild a new schedule with substantially fewer cancellations and fewer aircraft changes, which means fewer customers’ schedules are needlessly disrupted.”

United has also rolled out wireless handheld devices to its ramp workers to optimize baggage routing and delivery. “We’re also providing handheld devices to a lot more of our customer service agents that enable them to provide rebooking information to help check in customers and make changes to their itineraries, particularly when there are large groups of people waiting to check in at high-volume hours.” Called “Line Busters,” these agents can attack the line to help shorten the time a customer has to wait in it.

CAUTIONARY STATEMENT REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS

available at: WITH OUR HEADPHONES, EVEN A CROWDED FLIGHT FEELS LIKE A PRIVATE FLIGHT. Pick up a pair of Panasonic’s RP-HC700 headphones and hardly ever hear an outside noise again. With advanced noise canceling technology, they cancel both low- and high-end frequencies, and reduce outside noise by up to 92% (22dB) at 200Hz.* So go ahead – plug in, tune out and have a peaceful ight. www.panasonic.com/headphones *RMS sound pressure levels.

destinations worldwide, connect

BE A STAYFRIEND.INTOUCH. United launches The Optathlon TRY YOUR HAND AT THESE NEW GAMES THAT OFFER UP DAILY PRIZES AND A CHANCE TO WIN A MILLION MILES.

SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 14 connections SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPHS We connect customers to

conversationsof

us on Facebook and be

IF YOU SPENT YOUR SUMMER MONTHS training for that five mile run, then you’re more than ready to take on United’s new collection of online and mobile games, called the Optathlon. Trade in your running shoes for a computer or mobile device for a chance to win 1 million Mileage Plus miles or one of the 1,000 daily prizes, instantly. Go to games.united.com to play the five interactive video games based on some of our favorite Travel Options by United. Play Legroom Legend and juggle objects in front of your spacious Economy Plus seat, or try Line Jump Hero to see how far you can fly to the front of the line for Premier Line access. Multiply your miles, fly your bags or just relax when you play the games from Award Accelerator, Door-to-Door Baggage and Red Carpet Club. Away from your computer? No problem. Just download the free Apple iPhone or Google Android mobile apps and play on the go. You’ll have a chance to unlock unique prizes instantly, including Economy Plus upgrades, Premier Line access and Red Carpet Club passes, when you play the mobile games on the day you fly. If you’re one of the lucky customers, show your “Instant Win” prize screen to a United customer service representative and receive your prize immediately. On your mark, get set and go to games.united.com on your computer, iPhone or Android mobile device and play to win instantly with United’s Optathlon. more than 1,000 with with Join a part of all kinds about travel. Follow us on Twitter and keep up with the latest news and information about United. Visit United’s official Facebook page at withforwardunitedairlines.followunitedairlineswww.facebook.com/andusonTwitter@Welooktochattingyou.

the communities we serve and now connect

our fans and followers online!

• At a future date, after the merger closes, the two frequent ﬂyer programs will be combined into one. Until then, we’ll continue to operate both programs.

Located around the world, the people of the new United Airlines will be focused on delivering the high-quality service our customers expect. The company will emphasize a Working Together culture that creates an environment where employees enjoy coming to work, treat each other and customers with dignity and respect, and deliver great service.

• Both airlines are members of Star Alliance, providing further frequent ﬂyer beneﬁts.

LET’S FLY TOGETHER

The new United will have an unparalleled global route network with comprehensive service to six continents – North America, South America, Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia. In total, 10 hubs will p rovide travelers with convenient connections wherever they need to go.

WHAT

16 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

SHOULD KNOW Members of United’s Mileage Plus program and Continental’s OnePass program will continue to have excellent mileage earning and redemption opportunities, and elite members will enjoy special recognition as a result of their status.

• Members of either program currently have the ability to earn and redeem miles on either airline’s ﬂights.

CUSTOMERS

A NETWORK LIKE NONE OTHER

3 THINGS FREQUENT FLYERS

The MergerContintentalUnited DOES THIS MEAN FOR YOU? WILL NOT SEE ANY CHANGES UNTIL AFTER THE MERGER CLOSES

UAL, Continental and certain of their respective directors and executive officers may be deemed to be participants in the solicitation of proxies in connection with the proposed transaction. Information about the directors and executive officers of Continental is set forth in its proxy statement for its 2010 annual meeting of stockholders, which was filed with the SEC on April 23, 2010, and the preliminary joint proxy statement/ prospectus related to the proposed transaction, which was filed with the SEC on June 25, 2010. Information about the directors and executive officers of UAL is set forth in its proxy statement for its 2010 annual meeting of stockholders, which was filed with the SEC on April 30, 2010, and the preliminary joint proxy statement/ prospectus related to the proposed transaction, which was filed with the SEC on June 25, 2010. These documents can be obtained free of charge from the sources indicated above. Additional information regarding the participants in the proxy solicitation may also be included in the definitive joint proxy statement/ prospectus and other relevant materials to be filed with the SEC when they become available.

A PLACE TO RELAX Global travelers have special needs, including having a place to work and relax at the airport. United Red Carpet Club and Continental Presidents Club lounges provide comfort and amenities that help business travelers be more productive at 69 locations worldwide.

For more information, please go to Unitedcontinentalmerger.com.

TARGET TIMELINEMERGER THE INTEGRATION PLANNING FOR THE NEW UNITED IS PROGRESSING WELL. WATCH FOR MERGER INTEGRATION TO OCCUR IN A SERIES OF STEPS. MAY 3, 2010 Merger agreement announced SEPTEMBER 2010 Stockholders vote on merger proposal* 4TH QUARTER 2010 Legal merger expected to close Continental and United begin painting aircraft with new United livery* 2011 Customers’ travel experience will begin to be streamlined with uniﬁed check-in facilities and airport lounges* FIRST HALF 2012 Continental and United operate as one carrier with single FAA certiﬁcate* *expected OUR COMBINED AIRLINE WILL BRING TOGETHER THE BEST OF BOTH COMPANIES. COMBINED HUBS CHICAGO • CLEVELAND • DENVER • GUAM • HOUSTON • LOS ANGELES • NEW YORK/ NEWARK • SAN FRANCISCO • TOKYO • WASHINGTON, D.C.

The current reciprocal privileges for members of the two programs will be enhanced in 2011 with the introduction of a single, uniﬁed membership.

CAUTIONARY

STATEMENT REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS This communication contains “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the safe harbor provisions of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995 that are not limited to historical facts, but reflect Continental’s and UAL’s current beliefs, expectations or intentions regarding future events. Words such as “may,” “will,” “could,” “should,” “expect,” “plan,” “project,” “intend,” “anticipate,” “believe,” “estimate,” “predict,” “potential,” “pursue,” “target,” “continue,” and similar expressions are intended to identify such forward-looking statements. These forward-looking statements include, without limitation, Continental’s and UAL’s expectations with respect to the synergies, costs and other anticipated financial impacts of the proposed transaction; future financial and operating results of the combined company; the combined company’s plans, objectives, expectations and intentions with respect to future operations and services; approval of the proposed transaction by stockholders and by governmental regulatory authorities; the satisfaction of the closing conditions to the proposed transaction; the timing of the completion of the proposed transaction; and other factors that are set forth in the “Risk Factors” section, the “Legal Proceedings” section, the “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” section and other sections of UAL’s and Continental’s Annual Reports on Form 10-K, subsequent Quarterly Reports on Form 10-Q, recent Current Reports on Form 8-K, and other SEC filings. All subsequent written and oral forwardlooking statements concerning Continental, UAL, the proposed transaction or other matters and attributable to Continental or UAL or any person acting on their behalf are expressly qualified in their entirety by the cautionary statements above. Neither Continental nor UAL undertakes any obligation to publicly update any of these forward-looking statements to reflect events or circumstances that may arise after the date hereof.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR INVESTORS AND STOCKHOLDERS

18 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COMwish you were here

STUCK IN THE MIDDLE // The ancient Miao village of Xijiang GUIZHOU, CHINA // PHOTOGRAPH BY MORANDI BRUNO SIME/ESTOCKPHOTO

OAHU: Ala Moana Center Waikiki Beachwalk Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Lahaina Cannery The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) Hyatt Regency Maui Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center MatchingavailableEarrings The Original Hawaiian Slipper Pendant with Diamonds Various sizes available Petite Slipper Pendant with WhiteChainDiamondsadditionalorRoseGold

Inside is the village of Hogsmeade, an exacting reproduction of the Warner Bros. movie set, complete with crooked chimneys, plastic icicles and snow that seems to mock the Florida heat. And everywhere, ever more lines: bag-toting Potter fans queuing up for Hogwarts Castle (a four-minute ride that chases Harry’s broomstick), Olivander’s wand emporium, Honeyduke’s sweet shop and the Hogs Head (where you can purchase a plastic ﬂagon of nonalcoholic butterbeer—more refreshing than you might think).

FANS OF HARRY POTTER have been waiting years for this moment: opening day at The Wizarding World of Harry Potter, the massive, $275 million, J.K. Rowling–sanctioned theme park built within the walls of Universal Orlando Resort. The June air is already simmering at dawn as the crowds turn up in droves. By 9 a.m., the numbers exceed 20,000, with more still ﬂooding in by car and van and tour bus. Some even come on foot, toting brooms. Thirty minutes later, a half-mile line leads to the arched entrance to Wizarding World.

Despite the heat, legions of wannabe wizards and witches are decked out in ankle-length Hogwarts robes, with striped neckties and wool scarves patterned in the crimson and gold of Gryffindor. They kill time by hexing each other with homemade wands, comparing lightning scars and round-rimmed black plastic glasses, and quoting passages from the books from memory.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

SWEEPS INTO FLORIDA. ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU 21 NOTES FROM ALL OVER dispatches

“As you enter, please make room for those who follow,” says a monorail driver named Michael, beelining for a butterbeer. “And today please switch out that goblet of ﬁre for a bottle of water.” —TED KATAUSKIS POTTER

NobodytheBeatsWiz ORLANDO HARRY

“The wait to get inside is seven hours at minimum,” announces a security guard through cupped hands. He then adds, sotto voce: “No amount of magic is gonna make it shorter.”

THE HAGUE DUTCH TREAT

Once a basement pastime, the game has become a way of life in videogame-crazed South Korea, where such contests are a spectator sport, more popular in terms of viewership and dollars spent than baseball, soccer or any other sport in the country. Koh is among the nation’s most beloved celebrities, and when the 22-year-old takes his seat and offers a thumbs-up, the female fans in the audience shriek as though John, Paul, George and Ringo have just taken the stage at Shea Stadium.

JORDAN HELLER dispatches

“The ﬁrst auction is very symbolic,” says Dutch Fish Marketing Board spokeswoman Lisette Wassenaar, adding that this year’s herring has been tasted by culinary experts and a chef and been given a qualiﬁed approval.

“It is very good but a little less fatty than last year,” Wassenaar adds, which perhaps accounts for why 2009’s first keg fetched a higher price at 66,000 euros. (The record, set in 2006, is a whopping 75,000 euros.) That may seem extravagant, but proceeds from the first barrel go to charity, and subsequent barrels fetch much less. More modest herring lovers can enjoy a single fillet of the raw fish, lightly salted and dipped in chopped onions, and wash it down with an ice-cold shot of korenwijn, a traditional Dutch malt wine. Total cost? Ten dollars.

Then an announcer calls his name, and 5,000 spectators applaud wildly. Koh strides onto the stage, smiling and waving to the crowd. Online, more than three million viewers have logged on to watch him compete in his chosen sport: a science-ﬁction videogame called StarCraft.

After a month of grueling training, Koh Seok-hyun is stern-faced as he steps out of the wardrobe room backstage at OGN, an “e-sports” stadium, with freshly applied makeup. He paces nervously. “I have trained for eight hours a day for this,” Koh says. “I’ve studied every aspect of attack.”

It’s an early June afternoon in Scheveningen, the seaside fishing district of the Hague, and the promenade along the harbor is teeming with a colorful mix of shanty choirs singing ancient songs of the sea, local families, gaggles of tourists strolling the docks with cameras at the ready and flocks of herring connoisseurs awaiting the arrival of the first fillets of summer—what has come to be affectionately called “DutchHollandsesushi.”Nieuwe, or new herring, is a Dutch delicacy fished out of the North Sea in and around the month of June—the first time every year that schools of these oily, silver swimmers are fat enough to eat. The townsfolk have made a custom of the fish’s harvest and consumption, with the official start of herring season marked by a public auction of the first barrel. This year’s first keg, which contained just 45 herring, sold for 58,000 euros (nearly $70,000, which works out to roughly $1,500 for each fish).

Like a chess player, Koh has dissected his opponent’s playing style and crafted his own attack down to the second. To win, he’ll need to build a small army of Zerglings, or alien bugs, and deploy them at exactly the right moment: a mere two minutes, 13 seconds after the game begins. Shortly after that, if all goes well, he’ll swiftly attack his opponent’s human colony. It’s a risky strategy. The announcer declares the start of the game. Koh whips his fingers across the keyboard like a virtuoso pianist. Three minutes, 16 seconds later, he’s victorious. That’s actually longer than he had hoped but nearly a recordbreaking time nonetheless. As the crowd cheers, Koh high-fives his teammates and coach. “I was confident,” he says. “But if I failed, I could always just say ‘good game’ and leave it there.” Outside, after the match, a cluster of young women crowd him for autographs. “You’re my hero, Koh!” one says.—GEOFFREY CAIN

22 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

Craft Work SEOUL

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As if on cue, a group of riders rumbles past ﬂying a banner that reads, “Bikers With Briefcases: New York Chapter.” Wearing riding chaps and bandannas, and even the occasional tattoo, they actually bear a passing resemblance to Brando’s wild“Therecrew.it is,” says Entenman. “Those guys are attracted to that bad-boy mystique. Any other week of the year, they’re perfectly normal.”—JEANETTE HURT

dispatchesUNITED.COMOne

FruitLow-Hanging LOS STURGIS,ANGELESSOUTH DAKOTA HOG WILD

Every summer for the past seven decades, the pastoral peace of quaint Sturgis, South Dakota, is ceremoniously disturbed by the revving engines of around half a million Harley-Davidsons. This year—the 70th anniversary of the Black Hills Motor Classic, or, for those in the know, the Sturgis Rally—a record number of hogs are expected to rumble in a cloud of dust down Main Street. And the locals don’t appear to mind.

“The truth is, the average rider has changed,” says Terry Rymer, general manager of the Black Hills Harley-Davidson dealership in nearby Rapids City, who’s just parked his black chrome Road Glide in front of Jambonz Grill & Pub. He isn’t the glowering, leatherclad ruffian portrayed by Marlon Brando in The Wild One, but a soft-spoken man in Nike sneakers. With custom bikes costing as much as $50,000, most of the riders are actually doctors, lawyers or even kindergarten teachers.

24 SEPTEMBER 2010 |

Built from repurposed industrial food bins growing tomatoes, cilantro and jalapeno peppers, the pyramid will eventually yield the ingredients for a fish taco feast during the November closing ceremony, including the tilapia swimming in a pond at its base. This monument to the Slow Food movement is just part of EATLACMA, a yearlong collaboration between the museum and Fallen Fruit, which was founded by David Burns, Matias Viegener and Austin Young. It’s their first gig in an official space, and it’s a doozy, with exhibits such as “The Way Potatoes Go,” a potato field growing between two buildings; “Breeding Is Bittersweet,” a tunnel of melons growing on trellises; and “Indexical Strawberry Flag,” pallets of strawberry plants nourished through an elaborate system of IV bags near the main entrance. They’ve also created a map of the museum that highlights the fruits found in the permanent collection, including works ranging from ancient Chinese ceramics to prints by 20th century Japanese artist Yozo Hamaguchi. According to Viegener, the apple reigns in popularity as a subject for artists, closely followed by the grape. As befits a group whose events are traditionally free to the public, Fallen Fruit skipped the fancy opening night fête in favor of a Sunday picnic on LACMA’s lawn. “This is how it used to be a hundred years ago,” says Burns, happily surveying the noshing crowd, which includes local art luminaries and even the occasional activist/actor (Entourage’s Adrian Grenier stops in for a bite). The nature of Fallen Fruit’s events, Burns adds, keeps the people smiling and the vibe sweet. “It’s impossible to argue about fruit.”—STEFFIE NELSON

Sunday afternoon at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, the three men behind the art collective Fallen Fruit—best known for mapping the trees growing fruit in public places throughout L.A.—are putting the ﬁnishing touches on an exhibit called the “Food Pyramid.”

“Let’s face it,” says Rymer, “a new Harley isn’t the least expensive motorcycle you could purchase.” In fact, the average Harley rider is married, in his midto late forties, with a college degree and a household income of more than $83,000. And more than 10 percent of riders are women.

“Thirty-ﬁve years ago, the demographics of people who were riding were a little bit on the rough side,” admits Jim Entenman, who co-owns two nearby dealerships. “There is a bit of an outlaw image, and riding a Harley is about individualism.”

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 27 WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO news

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One of London’s most famous hotels is reopening after a three-year overhaul. In business since 1889, the Savoy was ready for a face-lift. The architects paid careful attention to detail in restoring the Edwardian/ Art Deco look of the place—going so far as to replicate the original showerheads. The remodeled hotel, run by Fairmont, will also have a glass-domed winter garden in which guests can enjoy a spot of tea. fairmont.com

Savoy, Oh Boy

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DAY/ISTOCKPHOTOALICEBYPHOTOS,NAVYU.S.OFCOURTESYELISSEEVA/SHUTTERSTOCK, news 8-12 NORTHFIELD, MINNESOTA // An infamous bank robber pays his debt to society at Defeat of Jesse James Days, with a robbery reenactment and other activities beneﬁting local nonproﬁts. djjd.org

SEPTEMBERCALENDAR

A MAN OF LETTERS Hotshot designer Didier Benderli has applied a literary touch to the Pavillon des Lettres, a boutique hotel opening this month in Paris. Each of the 26 rooms is styled after a different letter of the alphabet and an author whose name starts with that letter, so if you get H, think Victor Hugo. Lest you imagine the hotel is stuck in the past, every room is also furnished with an iPad (in case you ﬁnish your book). pavillon-de-la-reine.com

SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

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22-25 BUENOS AIRES // Argentine wines are gaining traction among oenophiles. Stay ahead of the curve at Vinos y Bodegas Wine Exhibition. expovinosybodegas.com.ar

22-25 ILLINOISCHAMPAIGN-URBANA, // The Pygmalion Music Festival is known for its intimate venues, so you can get up close and personal with bands such as Built to Spill and Caribou. pygmalionmusicfestival.com

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With a Robert Trent Jones–designed golf course, a sweeping lagoon-style pool and activities ranging from sushi making and tango classes to laser skeet shooting and catamaran sailing, Costa Rica’s eco-friendly Paradisus Playa Conchal resort makes it almost too easy being green. conchal.comparadisus-playa-

MEMORIAL DAYS // History buffs will get their day in the sun—and sand and surf—this fall, when the Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort & Spa offers the “WWII Pearl Harbor & USS Missouri 65th Anniversary” package. Starting September 2 (the 65th anniversary of the peace treaty signing on the Missouri), the package includes tours of the Arizona, the Missouri and other World War II sites. marriottwaikiki.com

*Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate ﬁnancing offers may be available for s elect products. See website for details. Down payment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. Then, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active ﬁnancing program per customer. ©2010 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and free shipping offers not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. Quotes reprinted with permission. C_008472

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8-11 SINGAPORE // Whether you’re a contemporary art aﬁcionado or just think you are, ARTSingapore is the place to see some of the best work in Asia, by established artists and up-and-comers. artsingapore.net

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DRESSED TO THRILL // Don’t fret about what to wear to Fashion’s Night Out. The whole point of the Vogue-sponsored event is to pick up something new. From September 7 to 16, cities around the world will host events that bring together models, designers, celebrities, fashion editors and clotheshorses of every stripe. Stores will stay open late to host performances and, of course, shoppers. fashionsnightout.com IN TREATMENT Spa

TRUE SOUTH // Warning: This book may cause wanderlust. In celebration of Mexico’s bicentennial, powerHouse Books is releasing Revealing Mexico, a collection of pictures and interviews by photographer John Mack and writer Susanne Steines that paints a vibrant picture of the nation’s history and traditions. powerhousebooks.com

30 news

25-26 CARDIFF, WALES // Feel free to bring your own crackers to the Great British Cheese Festival. They’ll provide the beer, cider and, of course, the cheese. thecheeseweb.com

26 VIENNA // Last year, 15 cheerleaders squeezed into a Smart car. See what records will be broken at this year’s Vienna Recordia, a festival devoted to the most, longest, fastest, shortest—and many other superlatives. viennarecordia.com

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18-OCTOBER 4 MUNICH // Oktoberfest has become a worldwide event, but Munich’s original is still the best. munichsoktoberfest.com

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QUOTH THE RAVEN // This is the best time of year for golﬁng in the Front Range of the Colorado Rockies, and Raven at Three Peaks Golf Club, an hour west of Denver, is the best course up in them thar hills. Winding through towering pines, lakes splashing with trout and willowy aspen, this par-72 beauty plays hard, but the biggest challenge is trying to putt with all those distracting mountain views.

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NOTES FROM THE UNDERGROUND Bond No. 9 Cooper Square $230 / bondno9.com If pressed, one could make the argument that a New York City neighborhood doesn’t really exist until Bond No. 9 immortalizes it in an eau de parfum. To date, the fragrance house has distilled spots such as Central Park (bergamot, lime blossom), Chinatown (thankfully more peach blossom than dried ﬁsh) and Astor Place (mandarin zest, red poppy buds) into colorful star-shaped bottles. Their newest men’s scent pays tribute to the hotel bars, construction workers and former beatnik population of the Bowery’s Cooper Square with notes of cognac, timberwood and patchouli. Spicy!

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Stick with the Deco theme as you head to The Wolfsonian-FIU (1001 Washington Ave.; wolfsonian.org). This very SoBe museum showcases a permanent collection of industrial art, political propaganda and architectural models created from 1885 to 1945. (3:15)

BOARDING PASS Grab sunscreenyour and swimsuit and let United take care of getting you to Miami—one of the greatest hotspots in the world.

Once on the South Beach strip, you’re feeling a bit Hollywood, so you stop by Love Hate Tattoo Studio (1360 Washington Ave.; lovehatetatoos.com)—the home of TLC’s Miami Ink. You’re just browsing, of course; the dragon for your shoulder will have to wait for another day. (1:40)

Given the climate, an occasional beverage is key. Good thing Larios on the Beach (820 Ocean Dr.; bongoscubancafe.com) is only a couple of blocks away. Try one of their mojitos; they were voted the best in town by Miami Herald readers. (4:10)

Before returning to the airport, ﬁnd your way to Smith & Wollensky (1 Washington Ave.; smithandwollensky.com) in the spectacular South Pointe Park, which recently underwent a $22 million renovation. You’ll have a front-row seat to watch cruise ships come in and out of the port, the perfect complement to a shellﬁsh bouquet. (5:00)

Driving to the beach, enjoy the view on Julia Tuttle Causeway, a four-mile bridge over Biscayne Bay. If it’s sunny—and it’s always sunny—stop at Wells Fargo (750 Arthur Godfrey Rd.) to discover one of the city’s best-kept secrets: dozens of enormous iguanas lying in the parking lot. (1:00)

For something you can take with you, head to The Webster Miami (1220 Collins Ave.; thewebstermiami.com), a three-story boutique housed in a stellar example of South Beach’s famous Art Deco architecture. It features the best labels—women’s and men’s—along with accessories and photography exhibitions. (2:15)

First stop: coffee. Strong, Cuban coffee in a demitasse cup from Versailles Restaurant (3555 SW Eighth St.), a landmark eatery on Calle Ocho in Miami’s Little Havana. When you get to South Beach—SoBe for short—a vibrant strip of sand where retirement community meets party town, you’ll be glad for the boost. (0:20)

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• The Tommy Hilﬁger brand celebrated its 25th anniversary this year, and Assouline recently published a limited-edition 144-page book titled Tommy Hilﬁger, which chronicles the label’s development. “The book is really a scrapbook,” he says. “It’s got lots of photos and little quotes from people I’ve worked with over the years.”

WHO • TOMMY HILFIGER, 59 MISSION • To aid Millennium Promise in reducing extreme poverty. Hilfiger has committed $2 million over five years to the Ugandan community of Ruhiira. “We’d like to make a difference and really teach the people of the village to help themselves,” he says. “We’re helping them get jobs, support their community. We’re not giving them fish—we’re teaching them how to fish.” He’s also opening the door for his staff to get involved: All 10,000 Tommy Hilfiger employees around the world are encouraged to take free volunteer vacations to Ruhiira.

MOTIVATION

FASHION ICON TOMMY HILFIGER TEAMS UP WITH MILLENNIUM PROMISE TO HELP ERADICATE POVERTY. BY LAYLA SCHLACK hero

HAPPY BIRTHDAY

• After achieving tremendous success as a designer, Hilﬁger felt compelled to give back. “We did a lot of research and found that Millennium Promise was one of the strongest organizations associated with the UN. Of the money that’s given, most of it gets distributed on the ground.”

Over 290 and including Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Sears 10 808.955.9517 WE LOVE HOW EASY IT IS

“The male customer has evolved over time, taking a more adventurous and global approach to fashion,” says Mike Tucci, the company’s president of North American retail. “Historically they gravitate toward staple shades like black and mahogany, but I think that’s changing as we introduce more offbeat colors, like cranberry and chambray.” Bring out the single malt—we’ll drink to that.

styl e HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 41culture ART & COMMERCE COACHOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

Where the Boys Are YOU KNOW THE SCENE: A befuddled male shopper wanders through the sparkly maze of a chic boutique. A rugged washed canvas weekend bag catches his eye, but he hesitates, noting a display of peep-toe pumps a few feet away. His brow furrows as he wonders if he’s really stumbled upon the men’s section after all.

In the last ﬁve years or so, fashion-forward retailers have begun catching on to how men prefer to shop, banking on the fact that fellows feel at ease in unabashedly masculine spaces uncluttered by pencil skirts and evening clutches. Surrounded by old leather club chairs, goes the logic, gents will happily splurge on boat shoes and calfskin billfolds. Throw a hunting riﬂe and some antlers on the wall—even better, serve neat single-malt Scotch—and they’ll pick up rugby shirts without a care in the world. A slew of boutiques have followed that model, keeping their men’s and women’s shops entirely separate. When J. Crew launched a boutique in downtown Manhattan in 2008, the gruff ambiance at the resulting men’s shop was underlined by its setting, a former liquor store, where sherbet-hued cashmere sweaters lined the heavy oak bar. This summer, the trend has gathered steam, led by Coach, the luxury leather goods and accessories emporium. In May, the label opened its own clubby men’s-only spot on Manhattan’s Bleecker Street where this season’s preppycool accessories come in casual materials perfect for a sailing getaway. But though the Bleecker Street shop clearly caters to the outdoorsy, All-American Coach customer, that doesn’t mean the guys are afraid to get a little trendy.

COACH, THE LUXURY LEATHER CRAFTER, OPENS A MEN’S BOUTIQUE. BY SARAH HORNE

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RETURN OF THE GEKKO

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What happens when the paparazzo becomes the subject? Adrian Grenier tries to ﬁgure it out in Teenage Paparazzo, his documentary about 14-year-old photographer Austin Visschedyk. A big hit at Sundance, the documentary makes its debut on HBO. 27

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1 3 43 CULTURE | SEPTEMBER 2010 arts The Big Ten WHAT TO WATCH, READ AND LISTEN TO THIS MONTH THROUGH THE LENS •

Michael Chiklis does what he does best— play a police ofﬁcer—opposite Julie Benz in No Ordinary Family, a new ABC drama about a clan with superpowers. Look for a new twist on childrearing during those difﬁcult high school years. 28

SEPTEMBER

WILD WEST The list of guest rappers associated with Kanye West’s new album is longer than the track listing and includes Drake, Q-Tip, Wu-Tang’s RZA and Pete Rock. If it’s half as big a hit as 2008’s 808s & Heartbreaks, West can certainly afford the help. SEPTEMBER 14 OF Beloved soap opera As the World Turns is calling it quits after 54 years and more than 13,000 episodes. Or is the show just faking its death to come back as a villain? Stay tuned.

NEXT-DOOR HEROES •

SEPTEMBER 17 4 5

The ’80s are back: ripped T-shirts, acid-wash jeans and now Gordon Gekko. Michael Douglas reprises his 1987 role in the Oliver Stone–directed Wall Street: Money Never Sleeps, which takes on the 2008 stock market crash. 24 BY CHLOÉ FLEURY

GOING VIRTUAL Now that the world has begun to catch up with the imagination of cyberpunk pioneer William Gibson, the beloved sci-ﬁ novelist is ﬁnding material in the present day. His beguiling new novel, Zero History, concerns a marketing tycoon, an extreme sports star and arms dealers (the shadowy kind, naturally).

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44 PREP WORK • A sassy update to the tonguein-cheek 1980s The Ofﬁcial Preppy Handbook, True Prep modernizes its lists of preppy necessities to include, among other things, appropriate texting etiquette. BRB, G2G2JC (“Got to go to J. Crew”). SEPTEMBER 7

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TAKE A LOOK AT HIM NOW • Phil Collins’ Going Back, an album of 1960s-era Motown, R&B and soul covers, pays affectionate tribute to the songs that piqued his interest in music, including Stevie Wonder’s “Uptight (Everything’s Alright).”

HOLD ON • Perched at the midpoint between poignant coming-of-age tale and creepy sci-ﬁ thriller is Never Let Me Go, based on the novel by Kazuo Ishiguro. Mark Romanek directs Keira Knightley and Carey Mulligan in this haunting ﬁlm. SEPTEMBER 15

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• “Counter Space: Design and the Kitchen,”ModernatNew York’s MoMA examines prefab kitchens of the past century. Please refrain from whipping up a snack in any of them.

COOKINGSOMETHING’S

“People call this album Americana, and that’s a very gracious and glorious term,” Plant says between rehearsals in Nashville. “But basically it’s a walk through the great land of the American song—a chance to peek through the door into a land I was hardly aware of before.” Band of Joy’s songs range from the old-time country dirge “Satan, Your Kingdom Must Come Down” and Townes Van Zant’s “Harm’s Swift Way” to the ominous drone of Low’s “Silver Rider.” He and coproducer Buddy Miller cowrote a couple tracks as well, including the bluesy “Central Two-O-Nine.”

The 62-year-old’s new album, Band of Joy (named after his ﬁrst ensemble), is the natural follow up to Raising Sand, Plant’s 2007 Grammy-winning collaboration with Alison Krauss. A headlong plunge into the history of American song, Band of Joy covers bluegrass, gospel, country and rockabilly.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

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WHEN ROBERT PLANT was the curly-locked frontman of Led Zeppelin, his voice was as steely and untiring as Jimmy Page’s jagged guitar. Nearly 40 years later, it’s no longer the “best voice in rock” (as Page called it), but it’s smarter than ever.

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“Of course, with Led Zeppelin we were heavily into the blues,” Plant says. “And sometimes you’re trapped by your previous success, but I feel like I’m now dancing to an unknown beat. And it feels brilliant.”

THE LED ZEP FRONTMAN HAS A WHOLE LOTTA LOVE FOR THE AMERICAN SONGBOOK. BY MIKE GUY Robert Plant

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The Knee Diaries: SJ is a 60-year-old male with bone on bone osteoarthritis of the left knee. An X-ray showed arthritis of the knee (X-ray on the left). Patient started receiving treatments at The Center For Regenerative Medicine. Today he is feeling better (X-ray on the right). This is how it works: The physician introduces Cell Therapy into damaged, arthritic cells by means of a precise injection. This process is followed by infrared laser as well as several other modalities including Collateral Artery Flow Exercises (C.A.F.E.), in order to accelerate the process. Depending on tissue damage, severity of the condition and the size of the joint that needs to be injected, people usually need a series of 1 to 6 treatments to improve. There is usually no down time, and people can go back to their usual activities or work immediately. The treatments can help most musculoskeletal problems such as low back pain, neck pain, knee pain, shoulder pain, whiplash, sciatica, tendinitis, sprain, strains, torn ligaments and cartilage damage.

LIKE IT OR NOT, the 3-D revolution will be televised, whether via Blu-ray discs of Avatar, ESPN broadcasts on DirecTV or your PlayStation 3. New laptops from Toshiba and Hewlett-Packard are also going 3-D. And soon you’ll have the technology in the palm of your hand, in the form of the remarkable new Nintendo 3DS, a 3-D image–generating version of the Japanese gaming giant’s popular portable console, due in stores this year. Located at 9573 Harding Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, The Center For Regenerative Medicine includes a team of professionals that are dedicated to improve your quality of life, paving the way to enhance the science of non-surgical orthopedic medicine. World champions, sports legends, professional and amateur athletes, dancers, and people with just plain pain and arthritis go to The Center For Regenerative Medicine for non-surgical orthopedic care. Using the facility to improve their condition, thousands of successful cases have been treated over the past nine years.

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The 3DS is a modern wonder. Best of all, you don’t need special glasses to appreciate it.

47 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

Tech writer TOM SAMILJAN might just sit out this latest innovation and wait for 4-D.

One of the handheld’s most compelling features is a slider (similar to a volume control) that allows you to instantly adjust the level of 3-D, in case you’re feeling a little…out of your depth. But the 3DS does more than gaming. It can also take and display 3-D stills, thanks to three different built-in cameras, as well as show 3-D movies from Disney, Warner Bros. and DreamWorks.Thatsaid,the image itself doesn’t look like much of an upgrade beyond those 3-D stills we’ve all known and loved since childhood (you know, the ones they gave out in Cracker Jack boxes). And as with other home 3-D offerings, the screen must be viewed straight on for the effect to be visible.

Unlike some TV-based threedimensional experiences, which basically use 1950s-era technology, the 3DS is a modern wonder: small but stunning, with eye-popping depth of ﬁeld. Best of all, you don’t even need special glasses to appreciate it.

Tilt the device in your hand even slightly—a common occurrence in the twitchfest that is gaming—and your entire perspective on the screen changes. Hardcore thumb jockeys aren’t quite sold on the technology just yet. “Gaming at the highest level is about precision,” says Sundance DiGiovanni, CEO of Major League Gaming, a professional gaming league. “I think it’ll take a couple of interactive evolutions before 3-D games are solid enough for serious folks to play competitively.” Those serious folks are a tough audience. We all remember how they scoffed at Nintendo’s last great innovation, a little thing called the Wii, which remains the best-selling game console on the market.

ROTDMANN/LAIF/REDUXBYPHOTOGRAPH

“For outdoors people, it’s just a short drive to the rural countryside in East Germany and only a little longer to Poland. I’m a birdwatcher, and I’ve had great sightings of cranes, which nest on these old farmhouses. There are lots of small birds you can’t see elsewhere, and it’s eagle country, too. It’s amazing to leave a very modern city like Berlin, drive a short way and feel like you’re in the 1800s.”

SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 48 whereabouts

One of my favorite places to eat is Renger-Patzsch, a German restaurant that uses some modern techniques. It’s a very casual place with really top-notch cuisine, and that attitude for me represents Berlin as a whole.

The Places I Go:

FOR THE NATIONAL BOOK AWARD–WINNING NOVELIST, CENTRAL EUROPE IS FOR THE BIRDS.

“Berlin is a very exciting city that doesn’t wear its excitement on its sleeve. It’s got so much going on artistically and culturally, but, at the same time, it’s very intimate. The streets are lovely and quiet. The city’s infrastructure was built for many more people than the number living there, so people congregate. And the local chefs are doing a lot to reinvent German food.

Jonathan Franzen

Jonathan Franzen’s longawaited new book, Freedom: A Novel, is in stores now.

BEING THE HEAD COACH of a major college football team is the best job in sports—until it’s the worst. Just ask RichThreeRodriguez.yearsago, things couldn’t have looked brighter for Rodriguez. The then44-year-old head football coach had just led his West Virginia University team to within one game of its first-ever national championship appearance, coasting to 10 wins on the back of the country’s most exciting offense. In his seven years of wearing the headset at WVU—his alma mater and a program of near-religious significance for the people of the Mountain State— Rodriguez (aka RichRod) had piled up the accolades: four Big East titles, three straight seasons of at least 10 wins, two Big East Coach of the Year awards and the first back-to-back Top 10 finishes in school history. He’d also turned down an overture from Alabama the previous off-season, passing on one of the best COACH RICH RODRIGUEZ HAD IT ALL AT WVU. AND THEN HE WANTED MORE. AFTER TWO DISASTROUS YEARS AT MICHIGAN, CAN RICHROD MAKE A COMEBACK? BY JOSH DEAN // ILLUSTRATION BY ANDY FRIEDMAN Blues sports

SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 50

Varsity

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RICK PITINO GEORGE O’LEARY MAD MEN Other ill-fated coaching career moves O’Leary coached Georgia Tech before going to Notre Dame in 2001, where he was quickly sacked for faking his résumé.

Left a resoundinglyUniversitychampionshipofKentuckyteamtobecomealoathedcoachoftheBostonCeltics. Departed a top University of Florida team in 2002 to coach the Washington Redskins for two dismal seasons.

STEVE SPURRIER SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 52 jobs in the country and convincing Mountaineer fans that this local boy might just stay true to his roots. Cut to one frigid December night late in the 2007 season. WVU is playing its archrival, the University of Pittsburgh—an unranked team with a losing record. If they win, the Mountaineers advance to the Bowl Championship Series title game, sealing the young coach’s legacy as one of the most beloved West Virginians of all time. If he wins this game, RichRod can run for governor. Statues will be raised in his image. You see where I’m going here. The Mountaineers did not beat Pitt. In fact, Rodriguez coached one of the worst games of his career. During his last game in the stadium that could one day have borne his name, Rodriguez was booed off the ﬁeld. What we all learned later was that RichRod already had one foot out the door—he was being wooed by the University of Michigan to succeed the outgoing coach, Lloyd Carr, in one of the biggest jobs in football. I don’t subscribe to the conspiracy theories that still echo in the hollers of West Virginia, that Rodriguez lost the Pitt game on purpose. The logic, if I understand it correctly, is had they won the game, the Mountaineers would have played for the national title in January. No coach would quit a job with a chance to play for the greatest title in his sport. Meanwhile, Michigan, unable to woo him, would have moved on to another coaching candidate. Thus, many a West Virginian will forever believe, Rodriguez had to lose in order to take the better job. As conspiracy theories go, it’s not completely bonkers. Shortly after the Pitt game, Rodriguez announced his resignation, effective immediately, and he left for Ann Arbor in a hurry. Then the Mountaineers, under the guidance of an interim coach, went to their runner-up bowl game and, playing like a team scorned, laid a whupping on an Oklahoma team widely held to be among the best in the country. Nevertheless, for RichRod, the future as head coach of Michigan must have seemed bright indeed.

COACHES OF THE COUNTRY’S major college programs live by one simple rule: Win. Win and you are deiﬁed—sane humans with respectable jobs will lay prostrate at your feet and name children in your honor (seriously). Win and you can coach forever, like Joe Paterno at Penn State. Win and you can even mess with sports people’s heads, retiring and then sort of unretiring and then fully unretiring, all in a few months’ time, as Florida’s Urban Meyer did this off-season. Just don’t lose. Ever. In Rodriguez’s case, it didn’t take long for plans to go pear-shaped. He unpacked his bags, signed an excellent class of recruits, installed his famed spread offense—in the process tossing out a system that had been in place for decades—and then went 3-9 for the season, ending Michigan’s 33-year streak of playing in bowls (one of the longest such streaks in college

IMAGESMESSERSCHMIDT/GETTYALIMAGES,DOLE/GETTYRICKSTEWART/ALLSPORT,RICKBYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:FROM

HERE’S THE GOOD NEWS for RichRod: College football fans have short memories. If Michigan goes 10-2 and beats Ohio State and plays on New Year’s Day—heck, if it just qualiﬁes for a bowl and beats Ohio State—most of this will be forgotten. The truth is that it takes time to overhaul a system.

And the next season things did look up—brieﬂy.

Then again, this is Michigan, where fans have never had to be patient. One more bad season and, well, Rodriguez might be leaving Ann Arbor with a maize-and-blue bootprint on his polyester coaching shorts. New York Jets receiver Braylon Edwards, who is Michigan’s all-time leading receiver, certainly isn’t willing to give Rodriguez much more leeway. “We don’t accept failure,” he recently told a reporter. “There will be no excuses this year. He has to win games, and if he doesn’t then he’s in trouble. And that’s not me. That is just how the alumni feel. He has to win games and especially the you-know-what game.”

In press conferences last year, RichRod had begun to take on the beleaguered visage of a haunted man. “Is there a sense of urgency? Sure,” he said. “But there was a sense of urgency last year, the year before and twenty years ago at Glenville State College” (where, at age 27, Rodriguez ﬁrst coached). If RichRod ever wonders if the grass is still greener back home in Appalachia, he need only gaze over at Bob Huggins (aka Huggy Bear), the coach shamed out of Cincinnati who now oversees the basketball team at WVU. Much as the football team did under RichRod, the Mountaineer basketball team has blossomed into a perennial contender for the Big East title. This past season, Huggy Bear took the Mountaineers to the Final Four for the ﬁrst time in 51 years. Afterward, he joked that if he took a tour of the state, he’d be hailed as a hero at every stop. Coaching a major college team really is the best job around. Until it isn’t.

The Wolverines started the season 4-0. Then they collapsed, ﬁnishing 5-7. For the second straight year, they failed to qualify for a bowl. And that’s only part of it. The NCAA launched an investigation into allegations that the team had violated practice rules. One player transferred to hated rival Ohio State, citing “a lack of family values.” A website called Fire Rich Rodriguez emerged and began agitating for his dismissal. This off-season Michigan released the results of its internal investigation. The school admitted to several violations and announced that seven staff members had been reprimanded, including RichRod. The school’s athletic director, David Brandon, was sanguine. “I don’t think this is a black eye,” Brandon said. “This is a bruise.”

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JOSH DEAN maintains his objectivity on this issue despite his near-pathological love of WVU athletics. Here’s the good news for RichRod: College football fans have short memories. If Michigan goes 10-2 this year, all will be forgotten.

The problem is that the bruise is on college football’s most hallowed program. Michigan is the winningest program of all time and plays in the biggest stadium in the land. Talk about a fumble.

football, by the way). Fans howled with rage, but many gridiron sages counseled patience.

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Serious Materials, an eight-year-old company that’s become a poster child for the opportunities—both in terms of reducing carbon and increasing proﬁts— that exist in building green. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, buildings

“Other windowmakers said, ‘No, you can’t reuse the windows,’” says Kevin Surace, the company’s founder and CEO. “In fact, you can.” Today, he has a team working around the clock in a 5,000-square-foot processing space on the building’s fifth floor. They take glass from existing frames, separate it and clean it. Then they insert new spacers, a suspended coated film and special gas before reinstalling the now superinsulated glass back into the frames. The new windows provide almost four times the thermal resistance of the old versions, contributing to a reduction in energy costs to the tune of $400,000 per year.

SERIOUS MATERIALS IS BUILDING A GREENER FUTURE, ONE SUPERINSULATED WINDOW AT A TIME. BY ROD O’CONNOR A New industryFoundation 55 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2 010 WALL drywall.isCEOSeriousMONITORMaterialsKevinSuracereinventing INC.MATERIALS,SERIOUSOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

Among those bidding on the job, only Serious Materials, a Sunnyvale, California–based maker of green building materials, had a tenable solution: retroﬁt the existing glass.

A DOZEN YEARS AGO, Tony Malkin, the environmentally conscious owner of the Empire State Building, installed 6,514 dual-thermal-pane windows in his iconic skyscraper. Over time, he was disappointed to ﬁnd they were only marginally more energy efficient than the single-pane versions they’d replaced. So last year, when the building became the test subject for a $500 million upgrade program with the goal of reducing energy use by nearly 40 percent, Malkin carefully considered his options. Replacing all of the windows again—this time, with triple-glazed glass—would reduce the heating and cooling costs. But at $2,200 per window, they’d be too expensive to achieve the desired return on investment.

The process is the ﬁrst of its kind. It’s also a perfect example of what Surace calls “disruptive innovation,” a swingfor-the-fences approach to business typically associated with rock stars like Apple’s Steve Jobs. That attitude deﬁnes

INC.MATERIALS,SERIOUSOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

TOTAL REWALL SchwarzeneggerArnoldwith Kevin Surace; top, a Serious Materials window; left, the company’s windows being installed in a scene from Extreme Makeover: Home Edition

The construction and operation of buildings accounts for 52 percent of the world’s greenhouse emissions.

SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 56 are a huge culprit when it comes to carbon emissions. The operation of residential and commercial buildings accounts for a whopping 40 percent of the world’s carbon dioxide emmissions. While we’ve been preoccupied with raising fuel efficiency standards and developing alternative energy for vehicles, we’re still building with essentially the same materials we’ve been using for decades.

Serious Materials has developed dozens of patents in a bid to improve these numbers. They’ve won awards for products such as EcoRock, a gypsum drywall alternative made of recycled waste, and been selected as a 2010 Technology Pioneer by the World Economic Forum. Along the way, Surace has been applauded by President Obama and been named Inc magazine’s Entrepreneur of the Year. But perhaps the company’s greatest accomplishment is bringing a rapidﬁre, Silicon Valley mentality to a sector resistant to change. “As slow as the car industry is, the people who make building materials are ten times slower,” says Surace, 48, chatting on his way to a meeting. “Most of us are from the tech world. We came to the industry and said, ‘There’s change on the horizon, and the change is around saving energy in buildings. If we can rapidly bring the best products in the world in that space, we should be a major supplier.’”

Over the years, the commoditization of building materials has sapped any motivation for R&D, Surace believes, and now “you have 2,400 windowmakers and they all make the same darn window.” In just a few years, Serious Materials has shot up to the top ﬁve percent in the residential window category, he “Windowssays.areone of those things that have been lacking,” notes Blake Bilyeu, co-owner of Bilyeu Homes, Inc., an Oregon-based building company that focuses on high-performance residential construction. He says that before Serious Materials came into the market, high-performance windows were available only from Europe, Canada or small domestic boutique shops. Surace hasn’t always been green (he admits he used to drive an SUV), but he’s always been an entrepreneur. After ventures in wireless, handheld communications and online shopping,

57industry SEPTEMBER CROSSWORD ANSWERS in 2002 he reconnected with a former colleague and took over a company that made a liquid polymer to soundproof automobiles. When potential customers called about using the product on their walls, he invented QuietGlue, a substance that dampens sound when spread between layers of drywall. That product evolved into the soundproof drywall sheets still sold by Serious Materials, called QuietRock. It wasn’t until 2005 that Surace became interested in climate change.

On a recent summer day, Roy, a fiftyish man with a salt-and-pepper beard and shirtsleeves rolled above his elbow, leads a group of Illinois policymakers on a tour of the 270,000-square-foot Serious Materials window factory on Chicago’s Goose Island—an industrial corridor just northwest of downtown. The site is the former home of Republic Windows, a company that made national news after its 2008 bankruptcy, when 250 workers staged a sit-in. After striking a deal with the local union, Serious Materials scooped up Republic in early 2009 (along with another shuttered window factory in Vandergrift, Pennsylvania) and has been in the process of bringing back employees as work ramps up. During the tour, workers are busy filling an order made possible by funds from the Department of Energy’s Weatherization Assistance Program, which helps improve the energy efficiency of low-income homes. Large sheets of glass are lowered onto an airflow table as a computer-directed machine punches out glass sizes, which line employees snap at the designated score marks and place into racks. At the moment, the plant is operating far from peak capacity, but those on hand seem likely to be joined by their former colleagues very soon.

ROD O’CONNOR, a freelance writer based in Chicago, doesn’t do windows.

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The political winds are also in Serious Materials’ favor, with about $20 billion in U.S. federal stimulus dollars dedicated to the renovation and construction of government buildings and low-income housing. With so much cash available, Serious Materials now has staff like Robin Roy, a vice president of projects and policy, actively meeting with stakeholders on the local level to spread the gospel about the beneﬁts of the company’s high-performance products.

www.nvidia.com/optimus

“The great thing about Serious Materials is this is a real business,” says Malkin. “They have real capitalization— and a real ability to execute. We’re not sitting here with a bunch of starry-eyed, garage-based venture capitalists.”

And when he saw An Inconvenient Truth in 2006, he says, “It woke me up, and we turned all of our R&D toward saving energy.” Even so, he’s as passionate about the bottom line as he is about the issue. “We have a rule: Green has to mean dollars,” he says. “You have to show a return on the customer’s investment. Once you accomplish that, it doesn’t matter if you’re selling to the staunchest Republican in the world. Saving money isn’t a red or blue issue— it’s a purple issue.”

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THE TOWN HOUSE restaurant, nestled in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains of southern Virginia, boasts its own cozy inn, with clawfoot tubs, pillow-top beds and antique rocking chairs ripped from the pages of Martha Stewart Living. Good thing, too, since most accommodations in the area are spartan, to say the least. But a meal at the restaurant is hardly a homespun aff air. At a recent threehour dinner (the tasting menu maxes out at 10 courses), one cutting-edge dish featured puréed orange frozen into a sphere with liquid-nitrogen then stuffed with mussels and saffron mayo. Another included an edible bouquet of foraged ﬂowers and herbs.

THE NEW CAPITAL OF FINE DINING? CHILHOWIE, VIRGINIA. THIS BLINK-ANDYOU’LL-MISS-IT TOWN IN THE BLUE RIDGE MOUNTAINS IS HOME TO ONE OF THE NATION’S TOP KITCHENS. BY JAY CHESHES food & drink

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

“One of the great meals of our lives,” gushed Food & Wine, going on to name its chefs, John Shields and Karen Urie Shields, the best in the country. Entries from notoriously snarky Chowhound.com stutter with superlatives: “Phenomenal,” “Stunning,” “Unforgettable.” You’d be Sweet Virginia

VEGGING OUT Chef John Shields’ chilled “Minestrone”vegetable hard-pressed to ﬁnd food this inventive in New York or Los Angeles, let alone the town of Chilhowie, Virginia— population 1,800 and a per capita income of just $17,000. And yet there it is, across the tracks from a McDonald’s playground—destination dining in a remote corner of the country. While great rural restaurants such as Michel Bras in the French Alps and El Bulli in the Catalan countryside in Spain draw plenty of traffic to remote corners of Europe, they have virtuallyKLEIN-DAVISSTEPHANIEBYPHOTOGRAPH

TOMATO ICE 6 tomatoes Salt to taste Coarse salt for garnish Olive oil for garnish

•

Simmer for 20 minutes until tender, then remove peaches to a container and add the verbena and lemon peel. Chill the peaches; once cold, remove the skin.

The Town House—ﬁve hours south of Washington, D.C., and en route to very little—is a test case for bringing the European model to American soil.

The young couple, who’d just started dating, turned down the chance to open Trotter’s new Vegas outpost and instead began scouring want ads for the right solo endeavor. Shields spied a posting on Craigslist heralding “a great place for a husband-and-wife team,” so he dashed off a résumé.

•

TOWN & COUNTRY Chefs Karen Urie Shields and John Shields outside the Town House

TOWN HOUSE’S PEACHES POACHED WITH SAKE AND LEMON VERBENA, SERVED WITH SHAVED TOMATO ICE 4 peaches (remove and save pits) 1½ cups water 1 cup sake 1 capful almond extract 3½ tbsp sugar 6 sprigs of lemon verbena 1 lemon, juiced and zested with a peeler Pinch of salt

The Town House may look like the same neighborhood bistro that the Bishops (who made a fortune in scrap metal) opened in 2002 as a basic meat-and-potatoes joint, but for the last three years it’s been far more ambitious than that.

“I called John, and I said, ‘You realize where we are, right?’” Kyra BishopShieldsrecalls.hadno idea. “I looked up the place online,” he says. “I was like, ‘No way in heck am I moving out there.’” But he agreed to a tryout. “We made them dinner,” he recalls. “They invited us back to their house, we drank wine, we talked about life and food and travel.” By the end of the evening, he was“Oursold.friends from Chicago said we were crazy,” Shields says. “‘You’ll be back soon enough,’ they said.” food & drink

•

The Bishops turned out to be generous patrons of the culinary arts. The new Town House would be a labor of love, less about proﬁt than foodie cachet. To sweeten the deal, they built a new kitchen, decked out with $50,000 worth of cutting-edge gastronomic gadgetry. Shields’ food, a mix of Trotter-style reﬁnement and the edgy technique he picked up from Grant Achatz at Alinea—the country’s most acclaimed avant-garde restaurant—hit rural Virginia with the shock factor of performance art.

•

TOMATO ICE: Blend the tomatoes with the salt for 10 seconds and pour into a cheese cloth (or coffee ﬁlter) to drain. Taste for seasoning, then pour into a shallow pan and freeze. Scrape with a fork to create a ﬁne ice.

The restaurant, casually outﬁtted with dark wood tables and faux-gas chandeliers, is a remarkable bargain (four lavish courses cost just $58) and a family aff air. At the start of service one night, Kyra Bishop, the maître d’, who owns the place with her husband, Tom, offers wine from what was once her private collection. Her daughter is a server and shuttles entrées from the lablike kitchen, where earlier in the day a young cook spent hours painstakingly cutting raw squid into morsels no bigger than grains of rice (for a mock risotto).

•

PEACHES: After pitting the peaches, crack the pits in half and add to a small pot. Then add the peaches, water, sake, lemon juice, almond extract, sugar and salt.

Meanwhile back in Chilhowie, the Bishops, who’d posted the ad, had already narrowed their search for a new chef to a few promising candidates. They never expected to hear from two of Chicago’s most creative young epicureans.

KLEIN-DAVISSTEPHANIEBYPHOTOGRAPHS

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SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 60 no equal on this side of the pond. Sure, a few venerable spots require a bit of travel (French Laundry outside San Francisco, Blue Hill at Stone Barns just north of New York), but those are short drives from major metropolises.

The owners lured Shields and his then-girlfriend Karen south from Chicago in 2007. The chefs—he cooks savory, she cooks sweet—had been working for Windy City icons Charlie Trotter and Grant Achatz at their restaurants when they decided to strike out on their own. “We’d put in our time working for other chefs,” says Urie Shields. “We were ready to start doing our own stuff.”

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TO SERVE: Place half of the peach in a bowl and ladle some of the cooking liquid over top with some tomato ice, a pinch of coarse salt and olive oil.

“The hipster chefs have arrived!” booms Mike “Ratface” Riley, from the farmer’s market steering committee. Despite the local adulation—and the Shieldses’ newfound national renown—the Town House still struggles, often serving just one or two tables on weeknights. “We would have been out of business long ago if not for the Bishops,” says John. Still, the chefs are enjoying the freedom that the slow pace affords them. They closed up shop for two weeks not long ago and jetted off to Europe for a food-focused honeymoon, hitting restaurants with a total of 22 Michelin stars. And they devote plenty of time simply to honing their“We’recraft.really dedicated to this,” says Urie Shields. “It takes time. We know that. For right now we’re really satisﬁed with being inﬂuenced by the environment, nature, the landscape and the artisans.”

JAY CHESHES , who writes for Saveur and The New York Times, will happily cross multiple time zones for the right meal.

FARM grilledcanteloupeeggplantCaramelizedFRESHandwithmango

“At ﬁrst we went through a busy period when everybody wanted to see what we were doing,” he recalls. “Then we went through a period when people saw what we were doing and didn’t come back. We rocked the boat.” They had dropped the customary plate-size steaks and shrimp cocktail from the menu, and, consequently, business declined precipitously. But the chefs stayed the course. By the fall of 2008, Shields had begun a blog, a visual diary of dishes, which caught the eye of a Chowhound.com contributor who later dropped by. His subsequent post declared the visit “probably in my top ﬁve meals in North America” and put the Town House on the national map. Six months later, a New York Times writer dropped in, followed by the Food & Wine scout. This summer, the magazine featured Shields in its annual roster of best new American chefs.

Among the local farmers they’ve come to rely on for much of their produce, the chefs have become fullﬂedged celebrities, which makes for slow going as they wander through the weekly green market in the nearby town of Abingdon. Looking over the season’s ﬁrst strawberries one Saturday, the Shieldses are crowded by well-wishers.

In the last three years their food has become more naturalistic— many dishes appear to have sprung up fully formed on the plate, and much more reﬂective of their Appalachian surroundings. One recent dish—described on the menu as “representing spring rain”—was inspired by an early morning stroll Shields took in the woods. It features banana ice cream, foraged nasturtiums and fresh peas with parmesan water as rain drops on the plate. A dessert looks like a bucolic still life, with chocolate soil topped with fragrant ﬂowers and herbs.

“There’s something really romantic about having a destination restaurant,” says Urie Shields. “We’re not inﬂuenced by chef colleagues or neighboring restaurants—because there aren’t any. So we’ve really been able to tune into who we are as chefs. I don’t think that would’ve happened as fast if we’d stayed in Chicago.”

Standard Awards guarantee any United seat that’s for sale + Saver Awards + new One-Way Awards + Hotel & Car Awards + Miles & Money Awards + 35 airlines worldwide + easy redemption at the all-new mileageplus.com The mileage program that wants you to use your miles. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.Miles with the clout to book any open United seat. Guaranteed.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 artifact “There’s nothing more tragic than eating badly in Paris.” 64 STAR POWER An American astronaut prepares for blastoff in Moscow. By Jake Rudnitsky 72 THE HEMI Q&A Behind the shades with Anna Wintour By David Carr 76 ROCK STEADY John Varvatos’ menswear is far from button-down. By Aaron Gell 82 THREE PERFECT DAYS: PARIS Like all good things, the City of Lights can’t be rushed. By Sarah Horne FEATURES 63 82P. PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

POWERSTAR TO PREPARE FOR HIS COMMAND OF THE INTERNATIONAL SPACE STATION, NASA ASTRONAUT SCOTT KELLY HEADS BACK IN TIME TO RUSSIA’S SPRAWLING TRAINING GROUND, STAR CITY. GREAT SCOTT Astronaut Kelly poses in front of the Soyuz training capsule. BY JAKE RUDNITSKY PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS

THE RUSSIA HOUSE The entrance to the Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center; opposite, an ISS training module

“Landing in the Soyuz is a little more sporty than the space shuttle,” says Kelly, with understatement.characteristic“Theparachute, the hard landing—I’d much rather land on wheels. But the Soyuz is very effective.”

For instance, “American space suits are way more maneuverable during spacewalks,” Kelly says. “But the prebreathe takes four hours.” Russian suits operate at a higher pressure, so a cosmonaut can be out the hatch in just 30 minutes.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2 010 67 NASA ASTRONAUT SCOTT KELLY STANDS IN A FORMERLY TOP-SECRET RUSSIAN TRAINING FACILITY NEAR MOSCOW,

Its role will grow even more critical after the final flight of the space shuttle in early 2011. Indeed, despite the fact that eight-track tapes were cutting-edge when the Soyuz flew its first manned mission in 1967, its nearperfect record has led the European Space Agency to label it “the most reliable means of space travel.”

The launch vehicles are another example of Russia’s intensely down-toearth approach. Where the U.S. space shuttle is a reusable mobile laboratory that can multitask, the single-use Soyuz does one thing: deliver people into space.

“We’re very fortunate to have the Russians as partners,” Kelly says. Kelly is in Star City to learn the Russian sections of the station. He’s hanging out in mock-ups of the Russian modules and learning everything from the craft’s plumbing to its complex computer systems.

The Russian Federal Space Agency (RKA) likes to brag that its enormous centrifuge is one of a kind, and it is: 60 feet long, with a bulbous capsule at the end, it weighs 300 tons and can produce as many as 30 Gs—enough to really hurt. Taking a spin in the centrifuge is a necessity for anyone training to ﬂy in the Russian space program, whose cosmonauts reenter the atmosphere in old, Apollo-style Soyuz space capsules that offer a notoriously bumpy ride. Next month, Kelly will be riding shotgun in one with Russian cosmonauts Alexander Kaleri and Oleg Skripochka on a trip to the International Space Station (ISS). Once there, he’ll assume a six-month command of the ISS, which has increasingly become a global village in the sky (in addition to the U.S. and Russia, the ISS hosts astronauts from Canada, Japan and the 18 member countries of the European Space Agency).

surrounded by consoles covered in blinking lights and switches that wouldn’t be out of place in an old episode of Buck Rogers. He’s just spent a minute in a human centrifuge, whizzing around in a circle at a harrowing eight Gs. “That was fun,” the barrel-chested Orange, New Jersey, native reports, as he waves his arms to get the blood circulating. “Sort of like a sharp stick in the eye is fun.” Here on planet earth there aren’t too many reasons to subject a person to those kinds of forces (a NASCAR driver banking at more than 200 mph might have to handle ﬁve Gs for a split second).

The joke resonated, in part, because of the novel moneymaking ideas developed by the RKA around that time, including commercial space programs. The ﬁrst space tourist, Dennis Tito, paid $20 million for an eight-day trip to the ISS in 2001. Last year, Star City was transferred from military to civilian control, and groups of tourists now pass through daily.

Officially named the Yuri Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center, Star City— with its ’60s-futuristic aesthetic—is an unlikely place to prepare for orbit.

Kelly’s previous two space ﬂights were in the U.S. space shuttle, which he says is space travel’s Cadillac; the Soyuz is a Lada.

For Kelly there will never be anything quite like the ﬁrst eight and a half minutes in a shuttle. “When the solid rocket motors light, you get the sense that you’re heading somewhere in a hurry, and it isn’t Florida,” he says. “Seven point ﬁve million

Although much of the technology in use was developed decades ago, the space program here is successful because it emphasizes functionality at the expense of innovation.

“It’s the Ritz compared to when I ﬁrst visited in 2000,” says Kelly. Back then, Russia was still reeling from its post-Soviet transition to a market economy. When cosmonaut Valery Polyakov spent a record 14 months in space aboard the Mir space station in 1995, a popular joke in Russia had it that the government couldn’t afford to bring him back down.

Tucked away in a lush patch of forest 27 miles outside of Moscow, the collection of Soviet buildings is more William Shatner than Chris Pine.

He ﬂashes a sardonic smile. “And it works most of the time.”

The Russian capsule may not get high marks for comfort, but its dependability has made it crucial to the survival of the ISS. Commercial space programs from Virgin’s Richard Branson and Tesla’s Elon Musk are in the works; in the meantime, the Soyuz is earth’s intergalactic workhorse.

SKY LAB Tucked

“The hardest part is being locked up for months without fresh air, the color green, a breeze or my kids,” Kelly says, as he climbs to the capsule hatch.

Moscow-based writer JAKE RUDNITSKY once pulled ﬁve Gs doing a jackknife dive at the YMCA pool in Greenwich, Connecticut. away in 20 acres of forest, Star City is home to 1,000 scientists and their families; below, a control console

“The travel can be challenging,” he says. “Try flying halfway around the world and showing up the next day for an eight a.m. class to learn stuff that’s potentially very critical to your future.” Still, the dream of space flight is a powerful tonic, and on the scale of difficulties that astronauts face, jet lag rates pretty low. But in Kelly’s mind, all the sacrifice—the discomfort of training and then space flight, the physical punishment, the three months of rehab for atrophied muscles after returning to earth and, of course, the mortal risk—all blur together as minor inconveniences. Eight Gs is a small price to pay for all that space.

BOARDING PASS Fly United countryWashington-DullesfromtoMoscowandfallforRussia—athatspans11timezonesandtwocontinents

In the 1990s, NASA and the RKA developed even closer ties, with the shuttle making multiple trips to Mir and paving the way for cooperation on the ISS. “NASA probably understands Russians, their culture, their way of making decisions and how to work 71 with them better than any other U.S. government agency,” Kelly says. “And that’s because we’ve done something so difficult together in this incredibly challenging environment.” That’s putting it mildly. The ISS, which is so big it can be seen from earth with the naked eye, is made up of 14 highly pressurized modules that fit together like an intergalactic Erector“TheseSet.sections are flying at 17,500 miles per hour in a near vacuum with temperatures ranging from plus- to minus-two-hundred fifty degrees, and we connected them to each other using complicated robotic procedures,” Kelly says with unfeigned awe. He adds “It’s amazing that we’ve done it as an international effort.”

KELLY AND KALERI are practicing docking procedures early one morning at the Gagarin complex, a series of cavernous, fluorescent-lit rooms joined by a maze of hallways. A Soyuz replica around twothirds the size of a Toyota Prius stands in a bright warehouse surrounded by a busy team of engineers and technicians. It’s obvious that comfort wasn’t a priority for the Russian rocket’s designers: Inside the module, Soyuz passengers assume a position reminiscent of a ski tuck and hold it for four hours on their way into orbit. “It can be tough on the knees,” Kelly says. It takes two days to get to the comparatively spacious ISS, a trip made more pleasant by the recent addition of bay window–style “cupolas” so passengers can enjoy the view. Once in micro-gravity (Kelly points out that zero gravity doesn’t exist), he’ll get to experience the effects of an extended stay in space for the first time. His previous two trips, lasting eight and 13 days, respectively, will be dwarfed by his planned five-month visit. “It takes about a month for the body to adjust,” says Kareli, who has already logged more than 600 days in space. Life on the station is heavily regimented, consisting of daily experiments, exercise and chores. (Bathing is done with baby wipes.)

R&R has improved vastly since the old days. Cyberspace extends all the way into actual space, and ISS residents can surf the net, pay e-bills and update their Facebook status. Kelly is planning a video blog to chronicle his days, but he’ll have to do it without his iPad, which hasn’t yet been certiﬁed for space. Maybe it’s his military background— Kelly was a Navy pilot before being selected by NASA—but he has no complaints about Russian orbital cuisine. The Russians can their rations, so the meat is juicier than the pouch-sealed stuff the U.S. sends.

“But you won’t miss your brother,” adds“No,Kareli.I’ma lucky guy in that respect,” says Kelly. Turns out Kelly’s twin brother, Mark, is also an astronaut. In fact, he’s scheduled to command the shuttle’s swan song, a voyage to the ISS, next February. His arrival at the station will mark the ﬁrst time siblings have met in space. “Not so bad for two boys from Jersey,” Kareli says.

As a result, NASA astronauts are as likely to ﬁnd themselves training for launch in Tsukuba, Japan, as in Houston. Even before Kelly begins his tour on the ISS, where he’ll hurtle around the earth some 16 times a day, NASA’s training regime keeps him circling the globe at nearly as intense a pace, with prep work in Germany, Japan, Canada and Russia.

THE AMERICANS and the Russians haven’t always seen eye to eye on earth, but things are different beyond gravity’s reach. Since the days of Sputnik, Russians and Americans have routinely cooperated on space technology. In 1975, in the heat of the Cold War, an Apollo and a Soyuz linked up in orbit for the ﬁrst international space effort.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2 010 pounds of thrust applied to your back instantaneously. To a spectator, it looks like it lifts off slowly. Inside, there’s nothing slow about it.”

72 The inﬂuential editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine has sown fear in the hearts of editors, designers and, yes, interns for more than two decades. Some things never go out of style. THE HEMI Q&A: ANNA WINTOUR BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER 2010SEPT.

HEMISPHERES: Vogue has generally focused on the high end. Does the fact that we are in difficult economic times inﬂuence your choices?

WINTOUR: You should come to work at Vogue for six months, and we’ll perfect you. I think that people learn what works for them over time.

WINTOUR: There’s just so much more coverage than there used to be. Beyond all the television, everybody now has a blog or a website. Ten years ago, someone living in Kansas wouldn’t know who any of the designers were, and now they all know who the models are, who the hairdressers are, who made the shoes, who made the jewelry. It’s been great for fashion.

WINTOUR: Well, I think it’s been about having the right mix—the aspirational along with something much more accessible. We’ve made a big effort in terms of highlighting clothes that women can really wear, but without walking away from what Vogue is. It’s an interesting conversation I have with myself every month.

WINTOUR: Am I like my dad? I never worked for my dad. But having worked for people who were not always very

1 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM 74

WINTOUR: Both my parents were extremely hard workers. My mother was a ﬁlm critic before having all of us. I think being brought up with journalism and being around my dad when there was a breaking story—being called by Lord Beaverbrook in the middle of the night, things like that—it makes a big impression. I remember the excitement of it all.

Unsurprisingly, Wintour herself looks well turned out. There’s the Prada coat over a Calvin Klein sweater and a large vintage necklace. The shoes? I’m too embarrassed to look under the desk, so I just ask, and she smiles again as she delivers the information: Manolo Blahnik. She’s doffed her sunglasses for the moment, but that eyewear, framed by Wintour’s unwavering pageboy haircut, has become one of haute couture’s iconic images. Even so, it is what goes on behind those glasses that has made her reign such a fruitful one. If editing is an act of assertion, the 60-year-old Wintour, a native of Britain, is very well qualiﬁed for the task, a magazine maker who knows exactly what she wants and usually gets it. Vogue is as much an empire as a publication, and important designers seek Wintour’s counsel and approval before making major decisions. She’s busy as usual but still recovering from her friend Roger Federer’s loss in the quarterﬁnals of the French Open the day before. “I’m very sad about that,” she says. She’s quite capable of having fun, if you consider it fun to get up before 6 a.m. to play tennis (singles, naturally). Her skills on the court are applied to her work as well. Several years ago, I accompanied her to a fashion show, and at the end of the event, I hesitated for just a moment. The editor took three long, quick strides and was gone. You have to be on highest alert if you want to keep up with Wintour.

HEMISPHERES: Your father, Charles Wintour, was an editor as well, eventually heading up the Evening Standard in London. How did that affect your career choice?

THE FASHION WORLD CAN BE...INTIMIDATING. For the seasoned reporter as for the freshfaced intern, then, the trip from the entrance of Anna Wintour’s office at Vogue magazine to the vintage chairs in front of her immaculate desk (with its selection of black markers and sharpened pencils) can feel like the longest seven yards on the planet. She smiles as I walk in—Wintour is nothing if not well mannered—but I can’t help but wonder about my choice of footwear and the mysterious streak of god-knows-what that’s alighted on my lapel since I got dressed this morning.

WINTOUR: It’s so much more democratic, in part because we have a ﬁrst lady who loves fashion and wears it wonderfully. She’s been a huge asset to the fashion world.

WINTOUR: That’s the way that women wear clothes today. I think women are so much more adventurous about fashion and personal style. We don’t have the fashion icons, say, of the Jackie Kennedy era, when everyone just wanted to look like her. It’s so much more diverse now.

HEMISPHERES: So it’s not as rareﬁed as it once was?

HEMISPHERES: Do you think the ability to be fashionable is innate? My father is an extremely natty dresser, but I always end up looking like a garbage bag with legs by the end of the day.

HEMISPHERES: He had a reputation as a fairly tough boss. Did some of that rub off on you?

HEMISPHERES: That mix is not entirely new. Your ﬁrst Vogue cover had a model wearing a $10,000 Lacroix top with $50 jeans.

HEMISPHERES: You’ve edited Vogue for 22 years and counting. Has fashion grown in importance in that time?

“While the glamour of the fashion world is wonderful, it’s also a very important business.”

HEMISPHERES: So when a former assistant published the novel The Devil Wears Prada, which was then made into a movie, you took it in stride and even attended the premiere.

JASONBYATTRACTIONS/EVERETT,ROADSIDEBYGALELLA/WIREIMAGE,RONBYTHAYER/CORBIS,ERICBYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:FROM SZENES/CORBIS

WINTOUR: Well, everything has its ups and downs and cycles. At least now we’re going up, which is in the right direction.

HEMISPHERES: We’d all be wearing white shorts. Meanwhile, you’ll soon be closing the famed September issue, the year’s biggest. It seems unlikely you’ll top Vogue’s 2007 record of 840 pages.

HEMISPHERES: Maybe not all that benevolent. You’ve got a reputation for being extremely tough. WINTOUR: I think it comes from being brought up in quite a strict household. Both my parents were very disciplined. My dad came from a very Victorian British background where you just didn’t complain about certain things, and I believe that as well. It doesn’t help anything to take a shot at someone, so I just think it’s better to move on—smile and move on.

WINTOUR: I had a really bad haircut once. I wore a hat for about a year just so no one would see it.

HEMISPHERES: What job would you want if you didn’t run Vogue? WINTOUR: I’d like to run the Tennis Channel.

HEMISPHERES: The publishing and fashion businesses have both faced their share of challenges in the last few years. Has it been a hard time to publish a magazine about high-end fashion?

WINTOUR: We certainly are.

WINTOUR: Totally right. I was told I would never understand the American market. I did a shoot in Paris, and I remember it very clearly: It was a couture collection, and I put dreadlocks in the model’s hair. It was too much for them. That was the end of me at Harper’s Bazaar. I think everyone should get ﬁred once. I think it’s really important. It worked out great for me. You come back. I ended up at New York magazine, and that was a great, great learning experience.

HEMISPHERES: Despite your success, you had your knocks on the way up. Is it true you were ﬁred from Harper’s Bazaar in 1975?

WINTOUR: When something like that happens, it’s almost like you’re looking at another person. You just don’t feel you’re that person.

HEMISPHERES: You’re expecting a robust September?

HEMISPHERES: What’s your greatest pet peeve?

HEMISPHERES: So editing requires decisiveness.

DAVID CARR, who writes about media for The New York Times, was unsuccessful in converting Ms. Wintour to ﬂip-up sunglasses…for now. 75 THE HEMI Q&A

WINTOUR: Enthusiasm. HEMISPHERES: Name your favorite food. WINTOUR: I’m very fond of avocado. And I love steak.

WINTOUR: The fashion industry was having such a tough time, and everyone was just sitting around wringing their hands. I think it’s important to be proactive in those kinds of situations, because it is a big industry, and a lot of people were losing their jobs. Fashion is a huge source of employment in New York City alone and while the glamour of it is wonderful, it’s also a very important business. To me, that’s often overlooked.

HEMISPHERES: Okay, now for the lightning round: What is the one accessory a young woman starting out in the world needs?

WINTOUR: I don’t like people who are late.

WINTOUR’S TALE // Anna Wintour as a young editor, above; right, conferring with photographer Mario Testino and at Fall Fashion Week; left, with designer Tory Burch clear, it’s much easier to work for people who do know what they want and who communicate what they want. He was certainly excellent at that.

WINTOUR: A benevolent dictatorship.

HEMISPHERES: Favorite TV show? WINTOUR: 24. I’m very sad it ended. HEMISPHERES: Biggest personal fashion faux pas?

ROCKSTEADY

AT THE DESIGNERINCOLLECTIONSMEN’SMILAN, JOHN VARVATOS TWIST.ROCKMENSWEARANDFASHIONHISHE10CELEBRATESYEARSSINCELAUNCHEDOWNBRANDGAVEA‘N’ROLL AARON GELL BY SALACUSE/RETNAMATTHEWBYPHOTOGRAPH

IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE WHAT THE THATCATHOLICSISTERS,ANGELICTHEORDERRESIDED

78 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM in the Church of San Paolo Converso in central Milan between the mid-16th and the late 18th centuries, would have made of the building’s current occupants. But on a sodden day in mid-June, the former nunnery—long since deconsecrated—is crawling with half-dressed men, most in their early twenties, six feet tall or better, with hip bones that could slice proscuitto and cheekbones to match.

Along one side of the room, under towering soot-darkened frescoes representing key events in the life of Jesus, are a series of stainless-steel clothes racks containing what, it’s hoped, will be some of the hottest men’s looks of the 2011 spring season—layered trench coats, suede military jackets, cozy sweaters, plaid waistcoats. The racks are labeled with the names of various models (Zhao, Oskar, Bastiaan…), and assigned to each is a bored-looking if stylish young lady, perched, texting, on a folding chair. These are members of another sisterhood of sorts, the dressers, each responsible for helping a guy into and out of his various getups with an efficiency that would impress Clark Kent. Meanwhile, on the other side of the room, beside an industrial-strength garment steamer emitting a spookily picturesque cloud, a number of makeup stations have been erected, each with a ring of lightbulbs, where blemishes are being dealt with, facial shine dulled and hair blown out and tousled just so.

The mood in the room is expectant but calm—remarkably so given that it’s only an hour before John Varvatos’ 2011 Spring/Summer menswear show is set to begin (one of 30 or so such productions taking place around Milan this week). That’s a testament to the man at the center of it all. Just 10 years since debuting his ﬁrst collection, Varvatos has emerged as one of the world’s top menswear designers, overseeing a growing enterprise that, he expects, will produce $125 million in revenue in 2010—its best year ever despite a pesky economic downturn. Standing on the church’s altar in a black T-shirt, charcoal jeans and cowboy boots, he is mostly bald, with a close-cropped fringe at his temples, and, shattering the stereotype of a highend designer, he’s extremely unassuming.

Varvatos huddles for a moment with Bill Mullen, his stylist. There’s some concern about a handful of models who ALTAR BOYS Models for the ConversoofthecollectionspringVarvatosJohnmen’sinChurchSanPaolo

won’t arrive till just before showtime. They’re walking in Versace and are expected any moment, zipping across town a step ahead of the army of international press and buyers who spend the week scribbling in notebooks, gulping lattes and dashing en masse from one venue to the next. “I think we are more calm than most,” Varvatos says. “To me fashion is chaotic enough as it is. You don’t want to drive yourself crazy.”

“Some designers design for themselves,” notes Tom Kalenderian, executive VP of menswear for Barneys New

It’s a testament to Varvatos’ mastery of this aesthetic that the inﬂuence is reciprocal, with top recording artists increasingly sporting his looks and, in many cases, showing their appreciation by appearing in the label’s advertising. The latest campaign, geared to Varvatos’ 10year anniversary, features Led Zeppelin’s Robert Plant and Jimmy Page, Lenny Kravitz, Joe Perry, Ryan Adams, Cheap Trick, the New York Dolls and Iggy Pop, among others— enough icons for a late-night, not-sold-in-stores classic rock mega-compilation.“Theywearourclothes.

An air of calm suits the clothes as well. Varvatos’ style— from which he has never really deviated during his decade running his own label—is best described as rock ‘n’ roll chic: a louche, unhurried classicism set off by understated hints of the rebel within. “In general we don’t do over-thetop things,” he says. “We’re trying to make clothes that have a realistic sense about them.” The Varvatos touch can be seen in the expert tailoring, the thoughtful details (like the use of old-fashioned hook-and-bar clasps) and the carefully sourced fabrics. His clothes never seem to shout, tending to speak in a raspy, bourbon-soaked whisper instead, and they often display a patina of wear, like something you might unearth from an old steamer trunk owned by Keith Richards.

HIS CLOTHES NEVERSPEAKINGSHOUT, INSTEAD IN A BOURBON-SOAKEDRASPYWHISPER.

79 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

Whereas a lot of his competitors design with big themes in mind, unveiling a distinctive new creative vision for each season, Varvatos is known for sticking with formula—which isn’t to say there aren’t some tweaks from one collection to the next. The nuance this season, for instance, is that he’s taken his rock ‘n’ roll gentleman to the country. “Like when the Rolling Stones were holed up in a villa in the South of France making Exile on Main Street,” he explains. Still, it’s really just a variation on a theme. “We have our handwriting and our personality, and our customer knows who we are and what we do.”

SHARPLOOK model.stylesVarvatosJohnaCACACEGIUSEPPEBYPHOTOGRAPHS

They’re friends,” Varvatos explains, sitting in a pew in the church’s nave, as the models parade down the aisle, getting the pace just right.

“It might have something to do with being from the Midwest,” says the designer, who now lives in Manhattan with his wife and 22-month-old daughter, Thea (he also has two grown children). “You have to be a little more grounded.”

THECOUNCILSTYLE preparationsbackstageMoreforJohnVarvatos’10th-anniversaryshow CACACEGIUSEPPEBYPHOTOGRAPHS

JOHN VARVATOS GREW UP in Allen Park, Michigan, a suburb of Detroit, the second of five siblings. His father was an accountant, his mother a homemaker. “It was seven people in a three-bedroom house, about 900 square feet,” he recalls. We’re sitting in his office, a tidy space filled with rock memorabilia (signed gold records presented to Zeppelin, a framed thank-you note from Kravitz, a Slash-certified top hat) just off the loftlike John Varvatos showroom in New York’s garment district. “My two brothers and I shared a room this big.” He gestures with one heavily braceleted hand, slicing the office in half. “There was one bathroom for seven people. We did our homework at the kitchen table—you can imagine how hard it was to concentrate.” Varvatos wasn’t much of a fashionista back then. Instead he was obsessed with music. “It was an escape,” he recalls. “Putting on headphones was the only way to get any peace.” His off hours were spent at a local record store, Sam’s Jams, where he’d grab a spot on the floor and flip through Creem, “reading about bands and trying to figure out what to spend my $2.98 on,” says the designer, who now owns 15,000 CDs. At one point, overcoming his natural shyness, he formed a band, Sweet Wine, with a cousin and played a few gigs at school. Varvatos handled rhythm guitar and sang backup.

80 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM York, who bought Varvatos’ very ﬁrst collection a decade ago and has carried his clothing ever since. “John designs for the man he believes is his client.”

“We weren’t very good,” he says now. “I ﬁgured out pretty quickly that it wasn’t my thing.”

For extra money, he took a job in a men’s store, where his interest in fashion took hold. “I remember this English class in tenth grade,” he says. “I came in wearing bell bottoms and this skinny navy sweater with a red star on it, and this girl I was interested in complimented it. I don’t remember what we were studying, but I remember that moment: realizing girls acknowledged me more when I wore nice clothes.” He continued working in retail through college, developing a highly attuned sense of what customers are actually looking for. “I made my living on commission,” he says. “I needed someone to feel so good about their purchase that they would come back and ask for me.”

After beginning his design career at Polo Ralph Lauren in 1983, Varvatos went on to oversee menswear at Calvin Klein before returning to Ralph in the same role. He started his own line ﬁve years later. It was at Calvin Klein that he pioneered what may well go down as one of the greatest

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apparel revolutions of the century. “We just cut off a pair of long johns and thought, This could be cool…,” he says. Modeled by the young “Marky” Mark Wahlberg, the new “boxer brief” was an instant success. Such lasting style innovations are exceedingly rare, but Varvatos has another one to his credit. A few years ago, he entered a partnership with Converse, a sneaker brand with a storied history that was nonetheless in need of a serious reboot. “I was in my studio, and I had this low Chuck Taylor on the table,” he says—when inspiration struck. Finding a piece of elastic in the trim cabinet, Varvatos got to work with a needle and thread. The next day, he presented skeptical Converse executives with his new “laceless sneaker,” now the second-best-selling shoe in the brand’s history. In addition to the deal with Converse and the men’s collection, the Varvatos brand comprises footwear, accessories, a fragrance line and a line of sportswear, Star USA. “John has thought about everything that’s in this man’s world, including the belt on his waist and the shoes on his feet,” notes Kalenderian. “It’s a very multidimensional approach.” Meanwhile, Varvatos continues to forge ties with the music world. Though he has declined several offers to start a record label, he has a monthly music show, Made in Detroit, on Sirius Radio and hosts regular gigs at the Varvatos store on New York’s Bowery, the former home of the legendary rock club CBGB (the Milan church isn’t the only onetime shrine Varvatos has made his own). Though he shuttered a women’s collection after two so-so years to concentrate on menswear, he says he’s just about ready to try again. A home collection is also on the drawing board.

BACK IN MILAN, the late-arriving models are in the building, and everyone is lined up in their “first looks.” Varvatos stations himself just inside the door leading to the runway, where he’ll keep an eye out for any last-minute tweaks—a collar out of alignment, an ill-fitting pair of shades. In the vestibule, someone has hung a large whiteboard bearing a list of instructions (“ATTITUDE!… RELAXED, SLOW PACE NEVER, EVER STROLL…KEEP YOUR HANDS WHERE WE PUT THEM”) that might not bear the force of holy writ but seem pretty strictElevennonetheless.minutesand 36 looks later, the designer gives the crowd a little wave as a Patti Smith cover of “Gimme Shelter” blares over the PA. “That makes twenty-one collections altogether,” he says with a sigh afterward, holding a flute of champagne. “One more down!”

Hemispheres editor-in-chief AARON GELL has mastered a relaxed, slow pace, but he’s still working on attitude. PUBLIC IMAGE

“WE JUST CUT OFF A PAIR OF LONG JOHNS,” VARVATOS SAYS OF THE BOXER-BRIEF, “AND THOUGHT, THIS COULD BE COOL.”

Clockwise from top left, callVarvatos’Taylor;lacelesstheTimesbriefshow;fromVarvatosJohnlookstheMilantheboxertowersoverSquare;designer’sChuckandcurtaininMilan

PARIS Paris is known for its exquisite cuisine, extraordinary shops and dizzying array of museums and cafés. But to really enjoy Europe’s most sublime city, do what the locals do: Keep it simple. BY SARAH HORNE // PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRUNO FERT/PICTURETANK Three Perfect Days 84 DAY ONE Dining at “neo-bistro”a 86 DAY TWO theShoppingmarché 90 DAY THREE Strolling Champs-Elyséesthe PROMENADE DATE Pont des Arts

83 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

FROM PARIS, WITH from above, Hôtel Amour; homemade pâté and gherkins at La Régalade; Monet’s Water Lilies—Reﬂets Verts at Musée de l’Orangerie; opposite, dancing in Montmartre

LOVE Clockwise

And then there’s a third group, who ﬁnd the maze of narrow streets overwhelming, the language a roadblock and the pressure to make the most of the mind-boggling selection of historical sights enough to provoke a major meltdown in the shadow of Notre Dame. The trick? When in Paris, do as the Parisians do: Hardcore lovers of culture, the locals would never try to visit half a dozen museums in a day. Committed food fanatics, they cheerfully let lunch stretch to three hours whenever possible. And when a server seems brusque, they never, ever take it personally.

PARIS, THE DIVINE CITY OF LIGHT, elicits passionate reactions from visitors, and for good reason: Its streets and architecture are aglow with captivating light at all hours; its cuisine is widely imitated (though never replicated) in nearly every corner of the globe; and its sidewalk cafés are so redolent with romance that Hollywood has tried for decades to bottle the magic. Some visitors arrive in Paris with return tickets and are so completely seduced they simply never leave. Others depart reluctantly, only to remember their time here for the rest of their lives.

84 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

After getting lost on the crowded stairways of Montmartre—made famous by Toulouse-Lautrec and Picasso—you happen upon the Lamarck1 MORGANE ROUSSEAU // FILM DIRECTOR // “I go for dinner at Pétrelle in the ninth arrondissement. It’s very special, very Parisian, with just eight tables.” JAMESFIELD

Outside, wend your way down majestic Avenue Junot, admiring the grand Haussmann-era homes that French ﬁlm stars like Fanny Ardant call home. A well-heeled dame shuffles past, off to do her provisioning at the local boulangerie Le Grenier à Pain (2), which was awarded the prize for best baguette in Paris earlier this year (and is therefore duty-bound to supply President Sarkozy and Carla Bruni’s daily loaves).

The most important secret to enjoying Paris? Don’t fret if you get lost. Sometimes a wrong turn is the fastest route to that perfect little shop or picturesque wine bar. A sprawling, heartbreakingly beautiful city, Paris is ripe for those who appreciate serendipity. So take a deep breath, and off you go.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER

DAY ONE Stretch indulgently as you open your eyes at the Hôtel Particulier (1), a Montmartre mansion that once belonged to the Hermès family. Descend to the mod salon for a taste of perfection served on a silver tray: a warm chocolate croissant, slices of airy, chewy baguette with butter and jam, and a steaming pot of coffee, all proffered by a demure serveuse clad in a proper French maid’s uniform.

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3PD PARIS

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Sated, you decide to walk off this feast in the Jardin des Tuileries (5), beginning at the glass pyramid of the Louvre and sauntering west, marveling at the precisely pruned gardens first laid out for the delight of Louis XIV in 1664. Once filled with courtiers, the Tuileries are now packed with chic sunbathers who lounge on green metal chairs wearing ballet flats and ultrashort shorts, small dogs napping in the shade under their legs. You extract yourself from the bliss of people watching for a healthy dose of culture at the Musée de l’Orangerie (6), the French monarchs’ former greenhouse just off the Place de la Concorde. You are transported by the room full of Claude Monet’s water lilies and feel your blood pressure lowering as you settle into the rhythm of Parisian life. Next, hop the metro back to the hotel and slip upstairs for a late afternoon nap before primping for a fashionably late dinner. You’ve made reservations in coolagain Pigalle, where you dine on the back patio at Hôtel Amour (7) among the very young and the very thin. Order some French comfort fare and raise a glass to your exceptionally tired feet.

DAY TWO In the morning, you reluctantly check out and prepare to quit peaceful Montmartre just as you were beginning to understand why the “Montmartrois” (so called because they rarely leave this part of Paris) love it so.

Caulaincourt metro stop, where you’ll say goodbye to this arty enclave and make for the center of the city. At the St-Michel stop, avoid the noisy bustle of the Latin Quarter and turn toward the river, wandering down the Quai des Grands Augustins and browsing through the bouquinistes’ stalls of vintage books before crossing the Seine on the Pont des Arts (3). Here, on the wooden span of the bridge, you’ll ﬁnd a bench at which to pause and take in the Ile de la Cité and much of medieval Paris arrayed before you. Suddenly you feel a touch of vertigo, but relax, it’s just a little sensory overload. The best antidote is Thankfully,lunch.you’ve booked ahead at La Régalade Saint-Honoré (4), one of Paris’ most highly regarded “neo-bistros,” set just behind the Louvre. Take respite in the unadorned dining room and kick things off with a rustic pot of chicken pâté served with delectable mini cornichons. The prix-ﬁxe menu, concocted by chef Bruno Doucet, is exactly the initiation into French dining that you’ve been yearning for, all the simple joys of foodie Paris on three no-frills white plates.

PARIS

But ﬁrst, try a bite of something ﬂaky and buttery at the boulangerie Laurent Claudine (1) on Rue Caulaincourt before calling a taxi to take you and your bags to Mama Shelter (2), the Philippe Starck–designed hotel in the adventuresome 20th arrondissement. Here, an altogether funkier vibe prevails. You notice the carefully curated indie music playing in the lobby and the asymmetrical charcoal-colored denim aprons on the staff Once you settle into your minimalist room, you’re ready to make like a real 2 JE T’AIME FOODIE’S VIEW OF THE CITY

There’s nothing more tragic than eating badly in Paris. Wendy Lyn, the force behind The Paris Kitchen, (thepariskitchen.com) is an American expat who has been in Paris for 21 years and counts its top chefs as family. Lyn’s food tours take in the best bakeries and artisanal foods, ensuring that you steer clear of mediocre croque monsieurs. Lyn has founded The Paris Supper Club with food writer Alec Lobrano. It hosts intimate dinners at restaurantshard-to-booklike Frenchie, Jadis and Les Papilles. When Lyn and Lobrano are in the house, the wine and conversation ﬂow, the chef steps out to say hello, and it’s clear that Paris is your oyster.

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FRENCH CONNECTION Clockwise from top left, an iconic Metro sign; pain au chocolat at Mama Shelter’s Chic Chic Bar; the Jardin des Tuileries and the Louvre; L’Avant Comptoir’s macaron au boudin noir

From here, it’s time to ﬁnd your way to Jacques Genin (5), the chocolatier on the Rue du Turenne that insiders deem the city’s best. Take some salted caramels for the road and sample them as you wander the Musee Carnavalet (6), a magniﬁcent mansion built in the 16th century and now dedicated to the history of Paris.

Parisian and brave the bus, heading for the Marché d’Aligre (3) in the 12th arrondissement. Once there, you’re suddenly lost amid the shouts of the raucous fruit sellers, feeling the thrill of workaday Paris at its best. Few tourists ﬁnd themselves here, so you can peruse the cheeses and ﬂowers inside the covered market hall without ever feeling like a pest.

From the market, walk toward the Place de la Bastille, once a notorious prison and the ﬂint stone of revolutionary Paris, now a magnet for cool hunters and young Parisian mothers with a weak spot for “bobo” boutiques. You’ll ﬁnd both at Merci Boutique (4) on Boulevard Beaumarchais, a 19th century cloth factory repurposed into a three-level emporium.

Linger long enough and you just might get double-kissed by chef Yves Camdeborde, Paris’ culinary rock star. Dinner is at the nearby Ze Kitchen Gallery (8), where the dashing waiters swish about in ﬁnely tailored trousers, and chef William Ledeuil wows with acrobatic takes on fresh, seasonal cuisine. Find a taxi and cruise back to Mama Shelter, where you fall asleep fantasizing about how you’ll decorate your Parisian pied-à-terre.

After passing the Odeon metro, hang a left and pop into L’Avant Comptoir (7), where all of foodie Paris meets and mingles at the counter for glasses of vin rouge and plates of Iberico ham croquettes served in a tidy pyramid.

SOPHIE ESCABASSE // GRAPHIC DESIGNER // “On a Sunday morning, the Marché D’Aligre is so great. You see celebrities, and there are lots of places to eat and drink—I like oysters with white wine outside on a terrace or a big mint tea served with pine nuts.”

BABYLON REVISITED// FIND THE REAL SWINGIN’ PAREE / Americans F. Scott Fitzgerald and Ernest Hemingway caterwauled through Provence and Juan les Pins during the Jazz Age, putting France on the map for bohemians with a hankering for the good life. These thewhereLanguedoc-Rousillon,weekendpackedarein-the-knowdays,ParisianseschewingtheRivieratoinrusticyoucanescape arrivistes and taste an older, more authentic France. Save your stilettos for Diddy’s yacht: In andSiptodramatic,thewineRoussillon,Languedoc-wheretheisexcellentandCatharcastlesarethere’snoneeddressupfordinner.achilledglassofrosétoastthe’20s.

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For lunch, descend to the lower level and seek out the very good café Bastille, where the food is as worldly as the patrons (think Italian risotto, chilled herbal tea reminiscent of Marrakech and an English fruit crumble for dessert). Even if you throw down hundreds of euros on wares by Helmut Lang or Stella McCartney after your meal, you don’t have to feel guilty: All the proceeds at Merci go to help children in Madagascar and India.

Stunned by the macabre guillotine paintings and Napoleon’s personal toiletries, you cross the river at the Pont Marie onto the Ile Saint-Louis, meandering through the narrow streets before traveling back over to the Left Bank.

TOUT SWEET Chocolatier Jacques Genin; right, the air swing at the Jardin des Tuileries during Fête Foraine

0 .5 mile RueLaFayetteRuedeClichy AvedeClichy Ruedu4Septembre RueRivoliBlvd.Saint-GermaineBlvd.Saint-MichelBlvd.dePortRoyal Seine Seine Blvd.SaintMarcel QuaiVoltaire Champs-Elysées Blvd.deSebastapol Blvd. Saint-Martin Blvd.deVillette Blvd.Voltaire Blvd. de la Chapelle RueSaint-Lazare Blvd.Beaumarchais d de Courcelles 87 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Hôtel Particulier 23 Avenue Junot; Tel: 53-41-81-40 (2) Le Grenier à Pain 38 Rue des Abbesses; Tel: 46-06-41-81 (3) Pont des Arts On Port de Conti near Rue de Seine (4) La Régalade Saint-Honoré 123 rue Saint-Honoré; Tel: 42-21-92-40 (5) Jardin des Tuileries Avenue du Général Lemonnier between Rue de Rivoli and Quai des Tuileries (6) Musée de l’Orangerie west of Jardin des Tuileries on Place de la Concorde (7) Hôtel Amour 8 Rue Navarin; Tel: 48-78-31-80 DAY TWO (1) Laurent Claudine 63 Rue Caulaincourt; Tel: 42-64-56-11 (2) Mama Shelter 109 Rue de Bagnolet; Tel: 43-48-48-48 (3) Marché d’Aligre 3 Place d’Aligre; Tel: 43-43-34-26 (4) Merci Boutique 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, Tel: 42-77-00-33 (5) Jacques Genin 133 Rue de Turenne; Tel: 45-77-2901 (6) Musée Carnavalet 23 Rue de Sévigné; Tel: 44-59-58-58 (7) L’Avant Comptoir 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon; Tel: 44-27-07-97 (8) Ze Kitchen Gallery 4 Rue des Grands-Augustins; Tel: 44-32-00-32 DAY THREE (1) Abbaye St. Germain des Prés 3 Place Saint-Germain des Prés; Tel: 55-42-81-33 (2) Bensimon Autour du Monde 54 Rue de Seine; Tel: 43-54-64-47 (3) Jardin du Luxembourg Rue Auguste Comte (4) Four Seasons George V Hotel Spa 31 Avenue George V; 49-52-70-00 (5) Canal St. Martin Quai de Jemmapes (6) Frenchie 5 Rue du Nil; 40-39-96-19 89 FRANCE Paris 3 6 3 7 81 2 6 4 2 55 4 3 5 7 2 11 6 4

Clockwise from above, Dior on St. Germain; toy boats for rent in Jardin du Luxembourg; Canal St. Martin 3

In the afternoon, you stroll the banks of the Canal St. Martin (5) in a blissful state. The neighborhood is packed with locals doing the same—you can’t ﬁnd a single soul tapping away furiously on his BlackBerry.

DAY THREE Avail yourself of the very good brunch at Mama Shelter (and marvel at the ingenuity of their chic tubes of butter) before taking the metro to the Abbaye St. Germain des Prés (1), a jumping-off point for shopping on the Rue du Bac and the Rue de Seine.

Boarding pass Let United ﬂy you in comfort to the capital of France and arrive refreshed and ready to experience the elegant, magical and oh-soromantic, City of Light.

Since you booked dinner at Frenchie (6), a casual bistro tucked away on an alley near Les Halles, months ago, you have one of the most sought-after reservations in the city. Chef Gregory Marchand, the French-born alum of the Gramercy Tavern and Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen, won’t mind that you’re not dressed to the nines. At this 22-seat joint there’s a familial vibe and the food is exactly the kind of well-executed, unpretentious fare you’d hope to ﬁnd in an all-but-secret alley in Paris.

PASCAL HAUMONT // IMPROV ARTIST // “Chez Prune on the Canal St. Martin has been around for ages and is a good meeting point for a drink. On a beautiful day, there’s fantastic people watching along the banks of the canal.”

Afterward, you hail a cab back to Mama Shelter, where a DJ is on the decks at the bar, and the assembled nightcrawlers sport designer stubble or Bianca Jagger–style catsuits. Before you know it, you’re up in your room, downloading a French hip-hop mix on iTunes, wondering if maybe some of that ineff able Parisian cool hasn’t rubbed off on you after all.

COUTURE DE FRANCE

After losing three pounds in Paris despite eating ﬁve meals a day, SARAH HORNE is a ﬁrm believer in the French Paradox.

90 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

Laden with handsome staples from Bensimon Autour du Monde (2) (where the French buy their slip-on tennis shoes and Provence-worthy resort wear) it’s time to settle the great macaron debate on the Rue Bonaparte, beginning at Ladurée, where patrons are banned from taking pictures of the mouth-watering meringue-based sandwich cookies. Buy a macaron here, then do the same at nearby Pierre Hermé, the shop owned by a former baker at Laduree who broke off on his own and thus started a macaron war. A taste test proves deliciously inconclusive, so you resist doing further resarch and go for a stroll in the Jardin du Luxembourg (3), where old gents play chess in the shadows of elegant trees. Return to the Right Bank and walk from the Arc de Triomphe down the Avenue des Champs-Elysées to Avenue George V, where you’ll repair to the Four Seasons George V Hotel Spa (4) and feel very much like Marie Antoinette as you are guided to a room named for the French queen and undergo a 50-minute Sodashi facial (all that wine and cheese is a tad dehydrating). Afterward, plunge into the hot tub and do some laps in the pool surrounded by murals depicting the palace of Versailles.

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The survey was undertaken by TNS during March 2009, polling 2,500 managers in the UK, Germany, USA, Japan and The Netherlands. As a health and well-being company – and leader in the sleep management market - Philips commissioned the survey to get an indication of peoples’ sleep habits and their awareness of the impact of sleep on health and quality of life. Philips offers sleep therapy products that are designed to encourage patients’ acceptance of OSA therapy through increased comfort. The end result is improved sleep and, ultimately, improved quality of life. Find out more at www.Philips.com/because.

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PLAY SEPTEMBER 2010 ENTERTAINMENT 104 Films & Television 110 Audio Programming 126 Crossword 128 Sudoku INFORMATION 114 United Destinations 118 Terminal Diagrams 123 Alliances & Partnerships 124 Customs & Immigration 138 Food & Beverages Jennifer Lopez is (ﬁnally) ready for romance in The Back-Up Plan

TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Karate Kid SEPTEMBER 16-30 Letters to Juliet SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Office [T] Friday Night Lights [T] Sports Jobs SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Mentalist [T] The Simpsons [T] SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Joneses [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Back-Up Plan [T] Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii SEPTEMBER 1-15 Parks and GaryParenthoodRecreation[T]Unmarried SEPTEMBER 16-30 30 Rock [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] Two and a Half Men [T] SEPTEMBER 1-15 L etters to Juliet SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Karate Kid Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Office [T] Friday Night Lights [T] Sports Jobs SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Mentalist [T] The Simpsons [T] SEPTEMBER 1-15 The K arate Kid SEPTEMBER 16-30 Letters to Juliet SEPTEMBER 1-15 30 Rock [T] Numb3rs [T] Frasier Two and a Half Men [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Big Bang Theory [T] Friday Night Lights [T] Romantically Challenged [T] Frasier SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Back-Up Plan [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Joneses [T] SEPTEMBER 1-15 Friends Brothers and Sisters [T] Parks and Recreation The Simpsons [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 30 Rock [T] Psych [T] The Office [T] Friends &MEXICOHAWAIIAMERICANORTHCARIBBEAN SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Back-Up Plan [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Joneses [T] SEPTEMBER 1-15 Parks and GaryParenthoodRecreation[T]Unmarried SEPTEMBER 16-30 30 Rock [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] Two and a Half Men [T] &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONSOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND GET IN TOUCH What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

FEATURING Jennifer Lopez, Alex O’Loughlin, Michaela Watkins

FEATURING Amanda Seyfried, Marcia DeBonis, Gael García Bernal DIRECTED BY Gary Winick 1 hr. 47 min. 2 hr.

“It’s no big surprise that Lopez can still get laughs; she has a relaxed way with the camera that has mellowed and ripened over the years. ”—Dallas Morning News

DIRECTED BY Alan Poul

1 hr. 40 min.

FEATURING Amber Heard, Demi Moore, David Duchovny DIRECTED BY Derrick Borte

“Set in some stunning locales in Italy, Letters is a guilty pleasure that’s lighter on the guilt and heavier on the pleasure. ”—USA Today Looking for love. An American on an early honeymoon in Verona, Italy, discovers a letter asking Juliet, who was supposed to have met Romeo there, for romantic advice. It was lost 50 years ago, but once she answers it, she becomes involved in a quest to reunite two former lovers.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

THE KARATE KID

THE BACK-UP PLAN [T]

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

105HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

THE JONESES [T]

LETTERS TO JULIET

“Based on the young Smith’s considerable wattage, this Kid may just surpass the original. ”—Salon.com The franchise waxes on. After moving to China, a young boy from Detroit has trouble ﬁtting in with his classmates. When the school bully turns his ire on him for talking to a girl they both like, his only recourse is to learn karate from his building’s maintenance man.

FEATURING Jaden Smith, Jackie Chan

DIRECTED BY Harald Zwart

“Fresh, scintillating and downright terriﬁc... ”—New York Observer Funny neighbors. A seemingly perfect couple with equally perfect teenagers moves into an upscale gated community. They have better goods and game than any other family in town. The only problem is that they’re not a family, but employees of a stealth marketing organization.

Despite best-laid plans. In this charming comedy, a woman meets the man of her dreams, only it’s the same day she is artiﬁ cially inseminated. As she hides her pregnancy and tries to develop a relationship, hilarity ensues.

1 hr. 34 min.

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

GARY UNMARRIED

&FILMTELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

Sheldon gets to square off in the bowling alley against nemesis Wil Wheaton. Meanwhile, Leonard is bothered when Penny doesn’t respond the way he hoped after saying, “I love you.”

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is ﬂying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times. These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys

UAL Corporation October 2009.

Liz deals with Floyd’s return and learns he’s now engaged. After Danny is pranked, Jack helps get revenge. Jenna and Tracy are left scarred after hearing Kenneth’s stories for hours on end.

THE MENTALIST [T] In “A Price Above Rubies,” the husband of a jewelry store owner is critically injured accidentally walking in on a jewel heist. CBI soon suspects that the heist was pulled off with help from the inside.

THE BIG BANG THEORY [T]

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES

30 ROCK [T]

Tami gets frustrated to see the school lacking money but not when it comes to the football team. And a new quarterback enters the picture threatening Matt’s position in the team.

In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, ﬁlm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent speciﬁcally permitted by United Airlines.

Gary wants his pool table back but Allison isn’t budging. When he ﬁnds some risqué photographs of her, she realizes she must give in, unless she can get the photo album back.

FRIDAY NIGHT LIGHTS

TWO AND A HALF MEN [T] Hilarity ensues when two brothers try to raise one’s son. In “That’s Why They Call It Ball Room,” Charlie discovers Chelsea hasn’t been completely honest about her ﬁnances..

A MILLION MILES FOR PLAYING GAMES? THAT SEEMS FAIR. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY FOR A CHANCE TO ENTER OR WIN. A PURCHASE WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. Sweepstakes begins July 12, 2010 and ends October 15, 2010. You must be 18 years or older to qualify for prizes. Void where prohibited. See Official Rules at optathlon.com/officialrules. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products or services of other participating companies or partners. Apple, the Apple logo, iPhone, iPod touch, and iTunes are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. iPad is a trademark of Apple Inc. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Android is a trademark of Google Inc. Use of this trademark is subject to Google Permissions. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Play the new Optathlon games online or on your mobile device and you can enter to win a million Mileage Plus® miles. You can also win Travel Options like Economy Plus®, Red Carpet Club® or Premier LineSM for your flight. Get the free app or play online at games.united.com. Created for iPhone ® and Android TM OPTATH LON PLAY THE mobile and online games

The Back-Up Plan [T] 1 hr. 40 min. The Joneses [T] 1 hr. 34 min. TV 2 hrs. Iron Man 2 [T] 2 hr. 4 min. Just Wright 1 hr. 41 min. TV 2 hrs. The Karate Kid 2 hr. Letters to Juliet 1 hr. 47 min. Oceans 1 hr. 24 min. TV 2 hrs. Shrek Forever After: The Final Chapter 1 hr. 33 min. TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs. The Karate Kid 2 hr. Letters to Juliet 1 hr. 47 min. TV 2 hrs. Oceans 1 hr. 24 min. Shrek Forever After: The Final Chapter 1 hr. 32 min. TV 2 hrs. The Karate Kid 2 hr. Letters to Juliet 1 hr. 47 min. TV 2 hrs. Oceans 1 hr. 24 min. Shrek Forever After: The Final Chapter 1 hr. 33 min. TV 2 hrs. Date Night [T] 1 hr. 28 min. Oceans* 1 hr. 24 min TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs.

VIETNAMSINGAPORE TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs. TO U.S. TO U.S. TO U.S. TO U.S. TO JAPAN TO HONG KONG FROM U.S. FROM U.S. FROM U.S. FROM U.S. FROM JAPAN FROM HONG KONG

&FILMTELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다 &THAILANDHONGCHINAKOREA&JAPANSOUTH&KONGTAIWANGERMANYAUSTRALIA *Thailand flights only *Japan flights only The Back-Up Plan [T] 1 hr. 40 min. TV 2 hrs. The Joneses [T] 1 hr. 34 min. Iron Man 2 [T] 2 hr. 4 min. TV 2 hrs. Just Wright 1 hr. 41 min. TV 2 hrs. The Karate Kid 2 hr. Letters to Juliet 1 hr. 47 min. TV 2 hrs. Oceans 1 hr. 24 min. Shrek Forever After: The Final Chapter 1 hr. 33 min. TV 2 hrs. The Back-Up Plan [T] 1 hr. 40 min. The Joneses [T] 1 hr. 34 min. TV 2 hrs. Iron Man 2 [T] 2 hr. 4 min. TV* 2 hrs. Just Wright 1 hr. 41 min. TV 2 hrs. The Back-Up Plan [T] 1 hr. 40 min. The Joneses [T] 1 hr. 34 min. TV 2 hrs. Iron Man 2 [T] 2 hr. 4 min. Just Wright 1 hr. 41 min. TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs. The Bounty Hunter [T] 1 hr. 47 min Iron Man 2* [T] 2 hr. 4 min. TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs.

The Bounty Hunter [T] 1 hr. 47 min. TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs. Date Night [T] 1 hr. 28 min. TV 2 hrs. TV 2 hrs.

FEATURING Robert Downey Jr.Scarlett Johansson

THE BOUNTY HUNTER [T] Gerard Butler and Jennifer Aniston sizzle with onscreen chemistry when a bounty hunter gets an assignment to track down his ex-wife.

FEATURING Tina Fey, Steve Carrell

DIRECTED BY Shawn Levy 1 hr. 28 min.

FEATURING Queen Latifah, Common, Paula Patton

IRON MAN 2 [T] Iron Man Tony Stark is unwilling to divulge the secrets behind his armor because he fears the information will fall into the wrong hands.

JUST WRIGHT A physical therapist gets the gig of a lifetime working with NBA All-Star Scott McKnight. All is going well until she ﬁnds herself falling for her client.

SHREK FOREVER AFTER: THE FINAL CHAPTER

(S)

DIRECTED BY Mike Mitchell 1 hr. 33 min. 1 hr. 47 min. Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before and after the start of each month.

SEPTEMBER MOVIES

Iron Man 2 Just ShrekOceansWrightForever After: The Final Chapter

109HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

DIRECTED BY Sanaa Hamri 1 hr. 41 min. OCEANS Using state-of-the-art underwater photography technology, the ﬁlm explores the amazing beauty and variety of nature as well as highlighting its often fragile balance.

PLAY EXPECTATIONSGREAT IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

DIRECTED BY Jon Favreau 2 hr. 4 min.

Longing for the days when he felt like a “real ogre,” a domesticated Shrek is duped into signing a pact with the smooth—talking dealmaker Rumpelstiltskin.

FEATURING Mike Myers, Eddie Murphy, Cameron Diaz

OCTOBER MOVIES DinnerCyrus for Schmucks Toy Story 3 Grown Ups

FEATURING Jennifer Aniston, Gerard Butler

DIRECTED BY Andy Tennant DATE NIGHT[T] After a bored couple uses another couple’s names to get a table at a swank restaurant, a case of mistaken identity turns the night thrilling and dangerous.

DIRECTED BY Jacques Perrin, Jacques Cluzaud 1 hr. 24 min.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO

The best from the world of classical music. The latest and top selling music for kids.

The latest and greatest in world music. The latest and greatest in R&B and soul.

The latest top selling songs from Zune. The best of current adult pop. The greatest classic rock hits. The latest and greatest alternative hits. The best of current and classic country.

Phoenix Grammy-winning French alternative rock band Phoenix took the world by storm with their album ‘Wolfgang Amadeus Phoenix’. Listen to their hit songs ‘1901’ and ‘Lisztomania’ on the Modern Rock channel

The latest in Indie and Modern Rock. The best of pop music from around the world. The best contemporaryof jazz. The best of atmospheric and new age music. The latest in electronic and dance music. The best from the world of chamber music. The best in music performed on the piano. The best from the world of opera. The latest and classics from movie soundtracks. The best in comedy.

Katy Perry California Gurls” from her new album Teenage Dream is topping the charts! Listen to it now on the Top Songs Channel.

CHANNEL 777(2-CABIN)SELECTA320A319&A320747757/767(2-CABIN) 1 movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) 2 top songs in zunetop songs in zunetop songs in zunemovie (dubbed) top songs in zune 3 contemporary popcontemporary popcontemporary popmovie (dubbed) contemporary pop 4 classical classical classical classical classical 5 new wave new wave new wave new wave new wave 6 country country unavailable country country 7 classic rock classic rock unavailable classic rock classic rock 8 kids electronic/danceunavailable contemporary popkids 9 flight deck flight deck flight deck jazz/contemporaryflightdeck jazz/contemporaryflightdeck 10 indie/modern rockmovie (dubbed) movie (dubbed) top songs in zunemovie (dubbed) 11 world pop kids indie/modern rockkids 12 new age new age new age new age 13 r&b/soul contemporary jazzcountry chamber music 14 electronic/danceindie/modern rockclassic rock world music 15 chamber musicchamber musickids 16 piano jazz 17 opera 18 soundtracks 19 comedy Zune and United bring you a sample of the music available to Zune users - across PCs, media players and more. Learn more about Zune music and video entertainment at www.zune.net/united Find your aircraft model on the grid below to find the Zune channel that’s right for you. flight deck Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion. zune pass Like what you hear? Get all the music offered here today plus unlimited access to millions of other songs with a Zune® Pass music subscription.* Visit zune.net/zunepass to try it free for 14-days. on *Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription, available in the United States. Available content may vary over time.

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapoliDesSpringfiel Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe Edmonton Calgary Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150Miles 050100150200Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle Fargo Gillette Rock Springs CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ CasperFresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperialSanMontereyLuisObispoSantaMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Mexico City Billings Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend OdessaMidland/ Durango HarlingenBrownsvilleCorpusChristiMcAllenLaredoMinot Morelia MonterreyPuebla Saltillo Tampico Toluca Veracruz ChihuahuaManzanilloAguascalientesDurango SaskatoonRegina Pierre ScottsbluffChadronAllianceLiberal Kearney Laramie Huron McCookDodgeCityGreat BendGarden City Hays Salina Alamosa PuebloFarmingtonCortezTellurideLakePage/Powell Show Low Prescott Moab WorlandSheridan DickinsonMilesGlasgowSidneyCityWillistonLewistown MercedVisalia Hilo Kapalua IslandGrand Vernal North Platte Cheyenne Riverton Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United/United Express Route Cities served by United and United Express Cities served by Star Alliance or partner Code Share UNITED HUB Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

SpartanburgGreenville/WestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston ColumbusColumbiaNashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Newark Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem LexingtonGrandRapids Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis eapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South gfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeStateWilkesScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta Halifax Ottawa Pensacola Tallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0100200300400Miles 0100200300400500600Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenvillewestsas RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantown FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton London Duluth Chattanooga BiloxiGulfport/ Huntington New Haven Williamsport City JacksonMobileMontgomery NewburghSalisbury Ft. BeachWalton Florence PaducahMuskegon RougeBaton North Eleuthera Eau Claire Houghton Daytona VillahermosaCiudad Del Carmen Key West BurlingtonWaynesville 115HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

Sydney Brisbane CairnsPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Auckland Melbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalSan Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Ma Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Dalian Saipan Rotorua Edmonton Majuro Mumbai Guam ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a Star Alliance member Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Philadelphia Miami NewArubaYorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCape Town Madrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna Atlantallas Detroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires temala City an Salvador Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul Belfast Manchester BirminghamBristol EdinburghBarcelonaGlasgow OsloHamburgMilanBerlin PanamaMontrealCityTorontoOttawa Athens Abidjan OuagadougouCotonouBanjulMonroviaConakryFreetown BujumburaEntebbeKigali Nairobi DoualaYaounde GoaAhmedabad Santiago Montevideo 117 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

terminal diagrams on pages 119–122 to plan

your

the Star

show ticket counters, United Red

CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. DOMESTIC

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INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

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seats.

schedule.

At United Airlines, priority is safety and keeping an on-time On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure maintain the highest safety standards. canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

our

Flight

on United or one

and interterminal

119HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.IAD Concourse D MAIN TERMINAL C2 C12 C18 C Connector Tunnel Train Shuttle Bus C24 C1A2A4A6 A14 A32 B37B79A1A3A5C9 C17 C27 D1D3D2 D8 D30 Shuttle Bus Concourse A South African Airways Concourse C Air Canada Concourse B AustrianANAAirlinesContinentalLufthansaSASZ GATES US Airways CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.ORD TERMINALONE TERMINALTWO TERMINALTHREE Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) PedestrianTunnel TERMINALFIVE InternationalArrivals Concourse F US Airways Concourse M Concourse E Air Canada Concourse B ContinentalLufthansa Concourse C ANA C1 B1 F1 F4 F11 F14 F10F6 E1 B6 B9 B18B14 B22 C17 C19 C18C24C32 C16 C8 Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3. E3 C9Shuttle Bus United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.DEN 57 ★ TERMINALWEST TERMINALEAST Concourse C US Airways Concourse B Concourse A Air ContinentalCanadaLufthansa 2528261516 3736 35 41 3938 4950 60 80 919281 57 77 SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.SFO 72 Concourse G United Air New LufthansaANAZealandSingapore Concourse A Asiana Concourse B ContinentalUSAirways Concourse E Air CanadaConcourse F TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 3 80798988 81 73International Terminal Secure Connector 76A78A 71 Rountrip Shuttle service between Terminal G and Terminal 1. MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 119–122 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL ThaiLufthansaAirwaysANASingaporeAsianaSwiss TERMINAL 3TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand TERMINAL 1 US Airways TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 Continental TERMINAL 7TERMINAL 8 67A69A 68B64 75A71A 7672 888070A 124B Shuttle Bus LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.LAX United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center United Gate InternationalAreaArrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 2 37 39 43 56 50 4236 Shuttle Bus Shuttle Bus LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLHR 121HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTFRA B300-B303 B332-B340 TERMINAL ONE Pier A, Level 3 Gates A51-A65 Pier B Pier C C5 B20 B24 B26 B28 B48 B46 B44 C1 C7 C8 Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel Train to Terminal 2 Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5 TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTNRT Satellite 3 Satellite Satellite2 1 Satellite 5 Satellite 4 TERMINAL 1 313743 47 38 32 North Wing South WingPedestrianTunnel Third Floor Zone A ZoneFourthD Floor United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Gate InterterminalAreaTrain Stop Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center US AIRWAYS HUBS CONTINENTAL HUBS CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLT PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHX PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHL CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLE C2 D2 D6 D10 D14 D17 D21 D25 D28 C7C14 C16C19 C21C22C23 C25 C29 C10 C4 Concourse C ContinentalUnited Concourse B Concourse A Concourse D Continental Pedestrian Tunnel NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTEWR AirTrain 130127136 102101115 72 887571 B3 B2 B1 A1A2 A380 98 92 TERMINAL A ContinentalUnited TERMINAL B TERMINAL C Continental Shuttle Bus HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORTIAH TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security. TerminaLink Shuttle Bus TERMINAL A TERMINAL B TERMINALS A-E Continental TERMINAL C United TERMINAL E TERMINAL D A25-30A3-15A17-24 B76-83 B84-91 C14C20C23C21C34-42C17 E1-9 E10-14E15-24B68-75 B60-67 Concourse A United Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ConcourseConcoursesE B-E US Airways 24 Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16. Concourse A West Concourse A East Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D United Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways Concourse E Concourse F 1 7 13 To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside. Concourse A Concourse B Concourse B International TERMINAL 4 US Airways TERMINAL 2 United 71

123HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost every Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles you earn will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See united.com/airpartners for details.

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

OTHER AIRLINE PARTNERS

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily ﬂights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

STAR ALLIANCE AIRLINE PARTNERS

Island Air Jet TACAQatarAirwaysAirwaysGroup

You can earn and redeem miles on several other airline partners. See united.com/airpartners for speciﬁc information about each of our other airline partners.

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. Earn or redeem Mileage Plus miles when you ﬂy on any Star Alliance member carrier. The ﬂight miles you earn qualify toward elite status for next year. As a Mileage Plus elite member, your status is recognized on all the Star Alliance carriers. For more information, go to united.com/staralliance.

Aer ContinentalLingus Connection

HawaiianGreatEmiratesLakesAirlines

There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, ﬁsh, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

poisons, infectious substances NOTE

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side Admission Number Arrival Record 000000000 00 Departure Record 000000000 00 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection 15. City and State 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S. Failure to do so may delay your entry into the U.S. in the future. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date, without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is violation of the law. Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.: By sea or air, to the transportation line; Across the Canadian border, to Canadian Official; Across the Mexican border, to a U.S. Official. Warning: You may not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90 days or less. You may not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program, including having previously overstayed on this program without proper DHS authorization, will result in a finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 125HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010

Welcome to the United States I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can provide you with the current list of eligible countries. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or Itemguardian.9If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. Record

11.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94W (05/08) CBP Form I-94W (05/08) 00000000000 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. City Where You Boarded 12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 13. City and State 14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 16. 17. 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No) Do you have a communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are you drug abuser or addict? Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving moral turpitude or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been controlled substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities? Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies? Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured or attempted to procure visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or Havemisrepresentation?youeverdetained, retained or withheld custody of child from a U.S. citizen granted custody of the child? Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had a U.S. visa cancelled? If yes, when? ______________________ where? _________________________ Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution? Yes NoG.F.E.D.C.B.A.

Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No IMPORTANT: If you answered “Yes” to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you may be refused admission into the United States. Family Name (Please print) First Name Country of Citizenship Date of Birth Signature Date WAIVER OF RIGHTS: hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of U.S. Customs and Border Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an application for asylum, any action in deportation. certify that have read and understand all the questions and statements on this form. The answers have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Greece, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender. to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

*Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program. Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

FlightCarrier:Date:Port:No./Ship Name: Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average time to complete this application is minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país. Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Grecia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino*LosUnido.ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) Fecha de emisión del pasaporte Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País de residencia País en el que abordó 12. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 15. Dirección de correo electrónico SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

Admission Number Government Use Only Departure Record VISA WAIVER 00000000000 Admission Number Arrival Record VISA WAIVER 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Departure

CROSSWORD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 57 ACROSS 1. Type of flooring 5. Ring up 9. Locks in a barn? 13. Ancient characteralphabetic 17. Pressing need? 18. Hideous 19. Passing mention? 20. Remove the pits from 22. Purely academic 23. Backside 24. Shoe part 25. Boss 26. Attract 28. Error 30. “Has ___ seen my wallet?” 31. A range of mountains 32. One in a suit 33. Glean 35. Angler’s basket 36. Spool 38. A female mythological aquatic creature 43. Top performer 47. Have or possess 48. “___ bitten, twice shy” 49. “Get out!” 53. Just manage, with “out” 54. Perpendicular to the keel 57. Canadian $1 bird 58. Needy 59. A form of rummy 60. Pants part 61. Copper 62. Foil 65. Grizzly 66. Car accessory 68. Rat-a-___ 69. Draft regulator in a chimney or furnace 71. Disconnect 73. Legal org. 76. Soap ingredient 77. Horse farm newborn 79. Do it yourself beer 81. Creepy 85. “Scram!” 86. Ignited 87. Calendar span 88. ___ reflection 89. Truancy 90. Corrode 91. Substantial 92. Laugh fest 93. Napkin’s place 94. Marine rock-clinger 97. Halloween time 99. Shopaholic’s delight 101. Pungent 105. Property 107. Took the cake? 110. Picturesque 112. Free 116. The smallest planet in our solar system 118. Furniture wheel 119. Gorge 120. Number for one 121. Craving 123. Wee bit 124. Repay 125. Scorch 126. Dignified manner or conduct 127. Stair part 128. A ___ pittance 129. closingAuctioneer’sword 130. Hide 131. Pulled apart DOWN 1. Era 2. Like some humor 3. One who takes spoils 4. Complete 5. Catholicon 6. A woman’s secret 7. South American animal 8. Song text 9. Castle defense 10. Wear away 11. One twentieth of a dollar 12. Old anesthetic 13. Stringy 14. Annul 15. Broadway brightener 16. Border 20. Rungs 21. Copier need 27. Coffee whitener 29. Antivenins 34. Prayer leader 37. Take away 39. Spy 40. Any minute 41. Screen symbol 42. Say it isn’t so 44. Bean or pea plant fruit 45. Cut corners 46. Midmorning 47. Stetson, e.g. 49. Petty quarrel 50. Fizzy drink 51. Defeat decisively 52. Usher’s offering 55. Humdinger 56. Bring in 61. Summon 63. Inactive 64. Aye’s opposite 65. Creek 66. Stewed 67. The partner of 50 down 70. Reverberate 72. Ampoule 73. Vicinity 74. Tuckered out 75. Wrong 78. Devoted 80. “See ya!” 81. Mark’s replacement 82. Colossal 83. Tooth part 84. Get ___ shape 85. Absorb, with “up” 86. Meadow 89. Stag 91. Muhammad’s birthplace 93. Tenant 95. Fellow 96. Newborn 98. Life form 99. Not mono 100. Antenna BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ©102. Hold out 103. Completely 104. Someone who is trying to lose weight 106. Stockpile 108. ___ card 109. Nest of an eagle 111. Small very thin pancake 112. Unit of weight 113. Four-starreview 114. Claim 115. Food sticker 117. A funny guy 122. Toothpaste type 126 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED .COM IT’S ON THE TABLE ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD for Windows® and Mac OS® $149$199Exclusive United Hemispheres Magazine Offer at www.irislink.com/united Scan anything anywhere with no string attached... literally! Wor World ld d P Preremie i miie m ere re

EASY MEDIUM MEDIUM HARD 1. 2. 3. 4. 128 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM PUZZLESPUZPUZ©SUDOKUANSWERS 1. 2. 3. 4. SUDOKU BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN THE NUMBERS GAME

Our clients understand that it makes sense to consult an expert to best optimize their dating life. So, yes, we really do function as wing-women, offering detailed introductions to help eliminate some of the stress that accompanies ﬁrst dates. What are singles looking for on a ﬁrst date these days?

It’s womanownyourhavinglikeverywingAlabama • Arizona • Arkansas • California • Colorado • Connecticut • Delaware • Florida • Georgia • Idaho • Illinois • Indiana • Iowa • Kansas • Kentucky • Louisiana • Maine • Maryland • Massachusetts • Michigan • Minnesota • Mississippi • Missouri • Nebraska • Nevada • New Jersey • New Mexico • New York • North Carolina • Ohio • Oklahoma • Oregon • Pennsylvania • Rhode Island • South Carolina • Tennessee • Texas • Utah • Virginia • Washington • Washington DC • Wisconsin • Canada • Ireland • Australia • Thailand •

Sure. Dating is complicated, especially for busy professionals, but it’s not calculus. Finding the right time and place to meet compatible people can be a challenge to navigate. The bar scene is just that: a scene. And having family and friends set you up doesn’t really work for most people. Even if you are introduced to someone, the pressure is there to ask them out — and what do you really have in common with them? So what are singles doing about it, and why do they come to you?

We sat down with It’s Just Lunch Dating Specialist Betty Sinclair, Seattle, WA, to discuss a twist on a popular element in the dating scene: the person who has the savvy to provide singles advice on how to meet people — the “wing-woman.” Betty shines some light on today’s dating scene and what singles need to consider to be successful. Can you give us a 30,000 foot snapshot of the dating scene today?

IT’S JUST LUNCH has professional dating specialists just like Betty all around the world. Call us and discover how we can help you create a more rewarding dating life today. Visit ITSJUSTLUNCH.COM or call 1.800.335.8624Real People. Real Dates.

Sara DarlingPJ OsgoodAmy Brinkman

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One quality that always ranks high on the list is confidence. Many of us describe ourselves as confident, but are we really confident on a first date? Most likely, the answer is no, as dating is the one arena that tests our egos and levels the playing field for all, whether you are 21 or 60. I often tell my clients to take a deep breath, relax and just have fun with the process! What do you tell your clients before they go out? As a first-date specialist, I never want to hear from a client that a date was “nice.” A first date should be fun and exciting! It doesn’t mean that the two of you are going to ride off into the sunset, but it does mean that you are going to put your best foot forward and give the date 100% of your authentic self — the self your circle of friends and family see.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 131 E-mail: contact@villanovaprep.org • Website: www.villanovaprep.org 12096 North Ventura Ave. • Ojai, CA 93023 • (805) 646-1464 Founded in 1924 and located in Ojai, CA, Villanova is an independent Catholic school in the Augustinian tradition. Villanova provides a coeducational, residential and day college preparatory education to students in grades 9 through 12. OPEN HOUSE October 24, 2010 & January 8, 2011 Small Classes • Safe Environment • 100% College Placement College-prep Curriculum • Competitve Athletics • Fine Arts & Theatre • Character & Development,LeadershipJr.ROTC • Multicultural Experience • Technology Enriched Curriculum • Small, Structured Classes • Dedicated & Caring Faculty • Numerous Sports, Aviation, Marine Science, Sailing, SCUBA & Riflery Co-ed Boarding Program (6th-12th) College Prep www.farragut.org Waterfront campus located in sunny St. Petersburg, FL Admissions: (727) 384-5500 ext. 220

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 133

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You know today’s ﬁnal destination.

Why not the world? Begin at a school with small classes led by master teachers, where young people are prepared exceptionally well for top universities. In fact, 91% of boarding students describe their schools as academically challenging. And boarding school alums are primed to prosper throughout life. A majority go on to earn advanced degrees. Almost half achieve leadership positions before they turn 40. And most are involved in civic, arts, and service organizations.

But where are your kids headed?

Boarding school’s a ﬂight to personal success, and to the bigger success of contributing to a community — and to the world. Association of Boarding Schools

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | SEPTEMBER 2010 137

Currently being served on United Business® international outbound flights from US.

What’s New You’ve got munchies? We’ve got snacks. Domestic premium customers can satisfy their hunger on select extra long and very short flights with fresh fruit, chocolate and more from United’s new snack basket. Flip over the right page to enjoy »

premium offerings

HERBED BOURSIN CHEESE CHICKEN BREAST WITH POMEGRANATE LIME GLAZE (pictured here)

RELAX AND ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT

With a food philosophy centered around contemporary American cuisine and culinary partnerships which include world renowned Chef Charlie Trotter and restaurant favorite Trader Vic’s, United offers traditional dishes with a modern twist, while also providing regional and ethnic items. Enjoy classic favorites and modern selections created especially for you.

Doug Frost

This month Doug talks about our current domestic white wine offering … Callia Alta Malbec 2008 – the new hot variety in the wine world has been Malbec; from its vibrant purple color to its intense and plummy fruits, Malbec is the epitome of lush, friendly wine. But as with so many things wine, Malbec’s style is dependent upon location. In southwestern France, where it originates, it can be stingy. But in Argentina, its home away from home, it’s pure pleasure.

United’s distinguished Master Sommelier

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com w ithin seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s ﬂight.

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain brea d, accompanied by Kettle Classics WRAP

CHOCOLATE BAR $ 3

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

SMOOTHIE $ 3

Delicious preservative free blend of 100% mixed fruits and berries. $ 5

PARFAIT

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS

Low fat vanilla yogurt served with fruit and a side of granola. $ 5

CROISSANT

BREAKFAST

FRUIT YOGURT

AND

WELCOME ABOARD!

Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce $ 6

Cinnamon raisin bagel, cream cheese, strawberry jam, strawberry yogurt

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS

We are pleased to enhance your in-flight experience with Choice Menu options available for purchase on most North American flights, excluding

Fresh spinach, bleu cheese crumbles, dried cranberries and walnut halves served with balsamic vinaigrette and croutons on the side.

PARFAIT THAI CHICKEN WRAP NEWNEWNEW

CHEESE TRAY $ 6

$ 9

SALAD $ 9

Specially selected cheeses including monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

Shaved honey ham with provolone cheese, crisp romaine lettuce and stone ground mustard mayonnaise on a pretzel roll, accompanied by Kettle

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing and croutons on the side.

Gourmet chocolate available in either creamy Milk or intense Dark.

Beverage Service is available on most United ﬂights. While we try to ensure that you always receive your ﬁrst choice, actual selections may vary according to availability, class of service or destination. NON-ALCOHOLIC COMP LIMENTARY • So ft Drinks • Tonic Water • Seltzer Water • Spring Water • Starbucks Regular and Decaffeinated Coffees ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES Complimentary in United Business ® and United First.® Priced as shown in United Economy.® WINES • R edwood Creek 2007 California Cabernet Sauvignon $6 • Redwood Creek 2007 California Chardonnay $6 Domestic flights only: • Che viot Bridge 2008 Australian Shiraz $7 • Cheviot Bridge 2008 Australian Chardonnay $7 Domestic United Business and United First ma y also choose: • C allia Alta Malbec 2008 Argentina • Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc 2009 Stellenbosch • Rex Goliath Chardonnay 2008 California Refer to printed menus for additional selections where applicable. BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS BEER • Miller Lite $6 • Miller Genuine Draft $6 • Heineken $7 PREMIUM COCKTAIL • Trader Vic’s Mai Tai $8 (to/from Hawaii only) SPIRITS • Absolut Vodka $6 (international flights only) • Bacardi Rum $6 • Canadian Club Reserve Whisky $6 • Chivas Regal Scotch $6 (international flights only) • Dewar’s White Label Scotch $6 (domestic flights only) • Finlandia Vodka $6 (domestic flights only) • Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey $6 • Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey $6 • Tanqueray Gin $6 LIQUEURS • Bailey’s Irish Cream $6 • C ourvoisier VSOP Cognac $6 • Di Saronno Amaretto $6 (international flights only) • Kahlúa $6 It is United policy on all flights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international flights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin. Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. EasyPurchasePAYMENT Only credit/debit cards are accepted. CLASSIC $ 6 Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips • Oreo Cookies • Jelly Belly Gourmet J elly Beans • Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers • Sparrer Bee f Salami • Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers LUXE $ 7 Rondelé Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips • Wild Garden Hummus Dip • Oloves Mediterranean or Vi naigrette Olives • Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks • Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel EAT FOR GOOD $ 7* * $1 donated to Feeding America® Bumble Bee Lemon & Pepper Tuna Medley • Assorted Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Musselman’s Apple Sauce • Old Colony Chocolate Chunk Brownie Actual contents may vary slightly. SNACKS AND SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS BEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK • Milk • Tea • Assorted Fruit Juices • Bloody Mary Mix PRINGLES $ 3 Convenient size container of the original flavor crisps NEW

142 SEPTEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM Egypt is loaded with amazing fruit. mangoesThe and oranges are the best.” STEVENSON MURRAY / 54 / Compliance manager WHY I’M TRAVELING / I’m ﬂying back to Cairo, where I work as a health and safety manager at an energy company. I spend half of my time there and the other half at home in Trinidad and Tobago. I’D RATHER BE FLYING… / With my family, going on vacation. When we travel we like to go to big cities to see the sights and hit all the good restaurants. New York is our favorite. MY FAVORITE THING ABOUT CAIRO? The fruit. Egypt is loaded with amazing fruit. The mangoes and the oranges are the best. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND PHOTOGRAPH BY SASHA NIALLA GETTING TO KNOW YOU in transit “

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United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine September 2010

Articles inside

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Whereabouts

Food & Drink

Tech

Notes From All Over

Style

Comments

Voices A message to fl iers

Hero

Goods

Whirlwind

Connections What’s new at United