05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:19AM페이지88 001 C9600
REMARKABLE & PREVALENT IN 11-12 F/W COLLECTION
F A N T A S Y Prada
Theme 38.
Ethnic Nomad
Theme 39.
Hefty Classicism
Theme 40.
My Fair Lady
Theme 41.
Remaking Courreges
Theme 42.
Grunge Chic
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05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:19AM페이지89 001 C9600
05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:19AM페이지90 001 C9600
FANTASY
Theme 38
Ethnic Nomad In the long journey from the 70s, designers have begun to reimagine the decade's spirit with an urban spin. This season, liberality was embodied in a city nomad that looked more cozy and casual than lyrically bohemian.
Band of Outsiders
Nomadic Poncho Etro
Max Mara
Theme 87.
Urban Blankets
Halston
Some blanket coats resembled nomadic ponchos, as simple, square fabrics wrapped the body. Un-tailored liberalism delivered urban nomad chic.
Adam
Nomadic Caftan Alice Ritter
Vanessa Bruno
Vanessa Bruno
In addition to ponchos, tunics and caftans were also loved. Cagoule-like caftans hinted at the northern races' life. Rough silhouettes and blanket-like fabrics stressed a liberal image.
05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:19AM페이지91 001 C9600
Gist 100 | 11-12 F/W | women's wear |
Folkloric Knit Theme 97.
Tweedy Knits
Antonio Berardi
Exquisite jacquard knits were introduced, and multi-colored, delicately patterned hand knits resembled tribal rugs. Most of the patterns consisted of complicated stripes.
Sportmax
Edun
Mus
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05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:19AM페이지92 001 C9600
FANTASY
Theme 39
Hefty Classicism Classicism adopted a hefty mood. Lovely guipure was replaced by Goth, black lace while medieval tunics dominated layered one-pieces. A Byzantine-inspired look felt interesting, and hefty, decorative styles showed a different luxe than other classical casual wear.
BCBG Max Azria
Medieval Cynthia Rowley
Lutz
Medieval caftans delivered hefty, casual chic. The onepieces were casual separates, not evening gowns. Loose-fitting boots and turtle knits were well-matched.
Antonio Berardi
Byzantine Aquiliano Rimondi
Chanel
Byzantine-inspired beaded crafts met dark, royal-colored one-pieces. The unique feel of the Byzantine era looked quaint and intriguing, as the boldly embroidered thick stones imparted a modern feel through their orderly array.
05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:19AM페이지93 001 C9600
Gist 100 | 11-12 F/W | women's wear |
Goth Alexandre Herchcovitch
Elena Miro
Goth inspirations were still powerful. Black lace dresses were ubiquitous, but were modified by the partial use of laces and the preference for thick, opaque laces.
Antonio Berardi
Vionnet
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05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:19AM페이지94 001 C9600
FANTASY
Theme 40
My Fair Lady Classicism was inspired by the average citizen's life rather than nobility. The look of the lovely flower girl, Eliza Doolittle, was revived. Designers focused on the Edwardian Age's common people rather than noblewomen, which created very unique classical styles. A boyish influence from the 19th century evoked Charles Dickens' novels.
Emilio de la Morena
My Fair Lady Giles
Marc Jacobs
Long, pretty dresses resembled Edwardian styles but were less luxurious. A more common twist made the styles fresh and witty, and the one-pieces were different from the splendid, showy dresses with which designers were fed up.
Dsquared2
Oliver Twist Agnes B
Vivienne Westwood Red Label
Styles made us think about the background of Oliver Twist. The plebeian costume of the 19th century inspired designers, as coats with antique silhouettes came in folksy fabrics and created fresh, layered looks alongside plaids.
05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:20AM페이지95 001 C9600
Gist 100 | 11-12 F/W | women's wear |
Mary Poppins Dsquared2
Mary Poppins styles were also desirable thanks to the pretty, classical yet commoner-styled look. Long, narrow skirts and tiny, frilled blouses evoked the friendly lady of the early 20th century.
Limi Feu
Peter Pilotto
95
05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:20AM페ě?´ě§€96 001 C9600
FANTASY
Theme 41
Remaking Courreges Andre Courreges, who made his name as a genius modern tailor, was revived as each designer remade 60s vintage with their own spin. Legendary styles such as minimal yet cozy tailoring and simple yet bold coloration were retraced.
Blumarine
Minimal Tailoring Burberry Prorsum
Prada
Genius sartorialists created impeccable coziness with minimal tailoring. The silhouettes were ultra-small but the fits were perfect, in a style that had been Courreges' forte.
Balenciaga
Color Dynamo Costume National
Roberto Musso
60s fashion was remembered through dynamic color plays. Bold compositions in vivid contrasts delivered young, modern frankness. The styles felt artificial, which was a particular charm of the 60s.
05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:20AM페이지97 001 C9600
Gist 100 | 11-12 F/W | women's wear |
Plastic Yves Saint Laurent
Plastic raincoats were representative items of the 60s, an age that saw human beings land on the moon and that loved sci-fi fabrics. Plastic coated leather and real vinyl were cut into simple separates in a retro-futuristic mood.
Frankie Morello
3.1 Phillip Lim
97
05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:20AM페이지98 001 C9600
FANTASY
Theme 42
Grunge Chic The late 80s and 90s styles were featured in grunge chic. Youngsters wore a kitsch layered look while ladies were absorbed within big, loose styles. The power shoulder of the early 80s was softened to a collapsed shape, and blousons emerged as an alternative to hard blazers.
Antonio Berardi
Grunge Tailoring Limi Feu
Stella McCartney
Power shoulders became bigger but the shoulder pad was omitted. As a result, the wide shoulder points were dropped, creating soft, big fatherlike silhouettes. Those jackets were useful separates in grunge layering.
Hermes
Blouson's Heyday Vivienne Westwood Red Label
Yves Saint Laurent
The 80s and 90s were the blouson's heyday, and a unisex mood enhanced their popularity. They had a sportier, softer feeling than tailored blazers that caught women's attention.
05-FANTASY(88~99p)2011.3.208:20AM페이지99 001 C9600
Gist 100 | 11-12 F/W | women's wear |
Grunge Layering Aquascutum
Teddy bear-like cuddliness was felt in a grunge layered look. Clothes accumulated in a nonchalant way around the curves of the body, and a cozy richness was pursued, evoking the New Age styles of the 90s.
Hermes
Rick Owens
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