A Magazine, Issue 65

n o . 65 apr/may 2013 LL10,000

Hurts so good When fashion fires up your senses

Fashion A celebration of British style Beauty Skincare for your private parts Hotels Luxe properties in London, Montreal and Muscat Art or architecture? New work by Zaha Hadid and Antony Gormley Movies Premium theaters for Lebanon Cities Beirut’s Port District

BOSS 0517/S

ftc@ftc.com.lb

FAKH RY B EY STR E ET B E I R UT SOU KS DOWNTOWN P 01 991111 EXT 570

CHLOE.COM

LIBANON - AISHTI MAG - 460x300 DP - APR-MAY.indd 1

13/02/13 16:21

140 EL MOUTRANE STREET BEIRUT LIBANON - AISHTI MAG - 460x300 DP - APR-MAY.indd 2

13/02/13 16:21

109 ALLENBY STREET, BEIRUT CENTRAL DISTRICT, LEBANON 01 991 111 EXT: 579 EMILIOPUCCI.COM

BEIRUT 62 Abdel Malek Street 01 99 11 11 ext. 222

zegna.com

Passion for Details

Inside No. 65 APR/MAY 2013

Cityscape

48 Beirut Prada and The Kooples arrive 50 London Reinventing Café Royal 52 Paris A home collection from Lacroix 54 Milan Staying at Magna Pars Suites 56 Vienna Cocktails at Puff Bar 58 New York Akram Zaatari takes the MoMA 60 Los Angeles Eat at Le Ka, shop at Z Zegna 62 Boston Louis lands at Mandarin Oriental 64 Vancouver Live the city from the sky 66 Dubai A landmark Chanel exhibit

Playground

80 Music icon David Bowie 82 Music albums New from Britain 84 Movies Mouth-watering flicks 86 Books Spring reading 88 Magazine Wayfare goes to print

Fashion

90 Runways Bright metallics 92 Menswear By Burberry and Ben Sherman 94 Designer duos Two are better than one 96 London Fashion Week A winter peek 98 Brand Bottega Veneta and the “it” bags 100 Accessories Swimsuit and sexy style picks 106 Hot stuff Fashionable London romp 110 Heartbreaker Bvlgari’s Serpenti necklace 112 Woman on a ledge Seasonal glamour 128 Fabulously feline The wildest trends 138 Glow in the dark The shiny side of spring

Beauty

156 Burberry Beauty Why it’s so hot 158 Skincare Best British lines 160 Vajacial Freshen up for spring 162 Must-haves How Moschino does it

Celebrity

164 Kelly Hoppen Superstar interior designer 166 Danny Safady Syrian-American filmmaker 168 Tony Elieh Lebanese photographer 172 British models A fierce new breed

Design

176 Broad Museum Zaha Hadid’s latest 180 2b design A Lebanese inspiration 182 Black and white Totally trendy 184 Design update A global glimpse

Timeless Devotion When the precious is crowned with timeless beauty of white and fancy yellow diamonds, devotion lasts a lifetime.

Weygand St., Downtown Beirut – Beirut Souks - Sassine Square, Achrafieh - Tel: +961 1 981 555 – www.georgehakim.com

GH Bridal 23x30.indd 1

3/19/13 10:19 AM

Inside High Art

186 Antony Gormley Breathless installations 190 Saloua Raouda Choucair Lebanese icon 192 Rayyane Tabet Rethinking the pipeline 196 Juergen Teller Photos full of feeling 198 Huma Bhaba Her organic sculptures 200 Ayyam Gallery The London opening 202 Stefan Sagmeister A study of happiness 204 Stephen Burrows Fashion as art 208 Beirut Bloom A new art fair 210 The Armory Show In New York 214 Exhibits Art happenings at a glance

Gourmet

220 Restaurants Gallic fare in three capitals 224 London hotspots No reservations please 226 Spring fruit Only found in Lebanon

Lifestyle

n o . 65 6 5 apr/may apr/ma 2013 LL10,000

228 Movies Lebanon’s premium theaters 230 Pop-up private club In London 232 Spas Three luxurious spots in Toronto 234 Vineyard The only one in Bel-Air 236 Fashion trucks A new way to shop

Journey

238 Seville Spain’s spectacular city 242 Hotels Sanderson and St. Martins Lane 246 Basel Visiting the ancient Swiss city 248 Dennis Severs House A London jewel 250 Dorset Square Hotel New and improved 252 San Juan Islands Pacific hideaway 254 Le St. Sulpice A Montreal charmer 256 Sifawy Hotel Changing the face of Oman 260 Beirut Port District Style neighborhood

Last Word

262 Lady Hester Stanhope Her Lebanon stay 264 Being British Curse or blessing?

Hurts so good When fashion fires up your senses

Fashion A celebration of British style Beauty Skincare for your private parts Hotels Luxe properties in London, Montreal and Muscat Art or architecture? New work by Zaha Hadid and Antony Gormley Movies Premium theaters for Lebanon Cities Beirut’s Port District

Cover She’s in a Moschino suit, and she’s carrying a Marni bag.

Photographer Alessio Bolzoni. Stylist Amelianna Loiacono.

Hair Simone Prusso. Makeup Cosetta Giorgetti.

Publisher

Tony Salamé Group TSG SAL

Editor-in-chief Marwan Naaman

Creative director Malak Beydoun

Editors

Assistant editor Alexander Wilson Contributing editors May Farah, Leslie Jirsa, Serena Makofsky, Warren Singh-Bartlett Canada editor Melanie Reffes France editor Brent Gregston Italy editor Renata Fontanelli UK editor Grace Banks US editor Gail Goldberg Beauty editor Charlotte Colquhoun

Art directors

Art and production director Maria Maalouf Guest art directors Laurent El khoury, Layla Naamani Intern Charline Brechotte

Writers

Salma Abdelnour, John Burns, Tala Habbal, Anthony klatt, Robert Landon, Marie Le Fort, Mackenzie Lewis Sabina Llewellyn-Davies, Shirine Saad, katherine Siciliano Grigelis, Pip Usher, kristin Julie Viola Dorothy Weiner, J. Michael Welton, Marianne Wisenthal

Photographers

Fashion photographers Alessio Bolzoni, Raya Farhat, Petrovsky & Ramone, Takay Contributing photographers Geraldine Bruneel, Paul Clemence, Tony Elieh, Ieva Saudargaite

Stylists

Stylist Mouna Harati Guest stylists Amelianna Loiacono, June Nakamoto, Venus Waterman

Illustrator Mélanie Dagher

Petrovsky & Ramone Dutch photographers Petra van Bennekum and Morena Westerik are the two entities behind Petrovsky & Ramone. The duo fuse documentary and fashion photography, playing with emotions and situations. In addition to their work for A magazine, the two have shot for Vogue NL, Glamour and Vice Istanbul, among others.

Sabina Llewellyn-Davies Sabina Llewellyn-Davies came to Lebanon while on an extended European camping trip. Following her passion for mountain hiking, she works on promoting sustainable tourism in the Middle East. She contributes to several Beirut publications and is the author of Green Gold, The Abou Abed Joke Book 1 & 2, and Em Abed’s Revenge.

Laurent El Khoury Guest art director Laurent El khoury was at the helm of Gossip for four years, until our sister publication stopped printing and moved online.

During that time, he also contributed to A magazine’s art direction, most notably on the fashion and accessories shoots. This issue marks his final contribution.

Grace Banks Grace Banks is A magazine’s Uk editor.

She specializes in fashion, art and culture.

With a particular eye for emerging talent on the London scene, she also reports on travel, seeking out the world’s undiscovered holiday destinations. Among others, she contributes to In Style, Beach Tomato and Time Out London.

Kristin Julie Viola kristin Julie Viola is a Los Angeles-based writer who has covered everything from the spiciest foods to the hottest Hollywood stars.

She has contributed to numerous print and online publications, including Los Angeles Times, Zagat, Westways, Pasadena magazine, Julib.com, SheKnows.com and Gayot.com.

Venus Waterman Born into a family of artists, with a Dutch father and Jamaican Mother, Venus Waterman was introduced to show business and travel at an early age. Upon graduating from ArtEZ Institute of the Arts in Arnhem, she rolled into styling by chance and never looked back.

She’s styled for L’Officiel, V-Man, Elle and others.

Advertising

Melhem Moussallem, Bouchra Boustany, Stephanie Missirian

Production and printing

Senior photo producer Fadi Maalouf Printing Dots: The Art of Printing

Responsible director Nasser Bitar

140 El Moutrane St., Fourth Floor, Downtown Beirut, Lebanon, tel. 961.1.974.444, a@aishti.com, www.aishti.com

Porsche Centre Lebanon s.a.l.

Telephone 01 975 911, 03 901 911

stylish affair What is it about England and the rest of the United Kingdom that so dazzles our senses? Even now, with the British Empire a distant memory, all things to come out of that small island in the North Sea give free rein to our collective imagination. First we have the Royals and the recent dream wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton. Then there’s David Beckham, who turned soccer into a fashion sport and married pop star-turned-shrewd-businesswoman Victoria Adams. Addictive TV shows like Downton Abbey, which examines the lives of the British nobility and their servants during the early 20th century, set our hearts racing. British pop and rock bands are legends in their own right (The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Oasis, The Cure, Queen), while singers like Adele, Kate Bush, Annie Lennox and George Michael have all, at one time or another, redefined the sound of pop. And we have, of course, London’s great fashion houses. Brands like Burberry, Paul Smith, Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Stella McCartney now project UK trends from Northern Europe onto the rest of the globe.

This issue of A magazine is inspired by Great Britain’s inimitable style.

Marwan Naaman

A cityscape

Just in Beirut Galerie Tanit (left)

“Vous Avez Dit Abstrait?” is a group exhibit featuring work by artists like Michael Biberstein, Herbert Hamak, Sigrid Glöerfelt and Ghassan Zard, who hails from Lebanon and whose untitled painting is pictured here.

On view until April 30 at Galerie Tanit, East Village Bldg., Mar Mikhael, tel. 03.257.805, www.galerietanit.com

Bvlgari (right)

Described as the diamond of fragrances, Bvlgari’s new Mon Jasmin Noir L’Elixir eau de parfum entices with notes of jasmine, candied bergamot, grapefruit flower, honeyed amber and golden musk.

Lebanese Wines (below)

Michael Karam’s Lebanese Wines: An Independent Guide is a reference book containing all you need to know about Lebanon’s major wines and wineries, as well as its proud wine heritage.

Available at bookstores throughout Lebanon.

Amita (above)

Mira Ghandour Tabet is the founder and designer of Lebanese fashion label Amita. The Ashrafieh boutique and atelier carries Amita’s latest pieces for women, all of which are made from pure silk.

Liban St., Ashrafieh, tel. 01.321.486, amitafashion.com A 48

It’s the news of the year. Prada finally has its own dedicated space in Lebanon. Two new shop-in-shops just opened inside Aïshti’s flagship store in Downtown Beirut, one for men and another one for women, and all entirely dedicated to Prada.

The Kooples (above)

Aïshti opened Lebanon’s first stand-alone The Kooples boutique. Set on Saad Zaghloul Street, the sleek new boutique carries the French brand’s entire men’s and women’s collections.

Saad Zaghloul St., Downtown Beirut, tel.

01.991.111, ext. 535.

©ABC, Amita, Bvlgari, Raya Farhat, Emporio del Sole, Christopher Kane, Mini, Prada, Samsung, The Kooples, Turning Point, Ghassan Zard

Prada (above)

Gigi (above)

Italian trattoria Gigi has set up shop inside one of Gemmayze’s gorgeous stone houses.

Owned by Michel Ferneine (of La Posta), the new restaurant offers a well-priced menu of pastas, pizzas, salads and inventive Italian specialties.

Gouraud St., Gemmayze, tel. 01.444.024.

Mini (above)

Mini lovers can rejoice with the arrival of the Mini Paceman in Lebanon. The seventh model in the Mini family, the Paceman combines the sportiness of a Sports Activity Vehicle (SAV) with the sleek design of a coupé.

Tel. 01.684.684, www.bashen.com

Christopher Kane (left)

London-based brand Christopher Kane (now part of French multinational PPR) has arrived at Aïshti stores. The spring/summer 2013 collection is an explosion of white punctuated by yellow and pink pastels.

Samsung (above)

Samsung’s ATIV Smart PC Pro offers fast web browsing, heavy multi-tasking and music and video conversion. It has the power of a notebook and the convenience of a tablet.

The S Pen adds the real experience of writing and drawing.

Visit www.samsung.com

ABC Verdun (below)

ABC, Lebanon’s famed shopping emporium, is planning to open a new, sprawling mall in Verdun, roughly across from Dunes shopping center.

Visit www.abc.com.lb

Emporio del Sole (above)

Lebanon’s premier tanning salon Emporio del Sole opened a new branch in Verdun. In addition to the full body tanning machines, the salon also offers a new machine just for the face and the décolleté.

Verdun 732, Level B1, tel. 01.810.732, www. emporiodelsole.com A 49

A cityscape

Just in London

Comptoir Libanais (left)

HKK (above)

The Hakkasan Group’s latest venture, HKK serves fine Cantonese cuisine under the helm of Michelin-starred chef Tong Chee Hwee.

Specials include Hong Kong-style steamed Dover sole and lobster soup with goji berry.

88 Worship St., EC2A, tel. 44.20.3535.1888, www.hkklondon.com

Bond No. 9 (below)

New York parfumeur Bond No. 9’s new unisex fragrance, Central Park South, is ideal for spring, with notes of musk, jasmin, lily of the valley and ivy leaves.

Available only at Harrods, 87-135 Brompton Rd., Knightsbridge, SW1, www.harrods.com

Bina Goenka (left)

Indian designer Bina Goenka’s eponymous line of jewelry features glamorous statement pieces. Goenka’s philosophy is to create an “heirloom piece that you can hand down over generations.”

Available by private appointment only, www. binagoenka.com

Experimental Cocktail Club (right)

London’s hippest bar is almost impossible to find, hidden behind a black metal door in a Chinatown alleyway. If you make it past the doorman, head up the dark staircase and enter a speakeasy-type space where you can enjoy the city’s best cocktails.

13A Gerrard St., W1D, experimentalcocktailclublondon.com A 50

©Ayyam, Bond No. 9, Café Royal, Chrysan, Comptoir Libanais, Experimental Cocktail Club, Førest, Bina Goenka, HKK, Man Ray, Peter and Alice

Tony Kitous opened a fifth branch of his successful Lebanese canteen and deli, Comptoir Libanais, in Soho. Mezze, wraps, salads, pastries and cakes are available in a visually stunning space designed by Rana Salam.

59 Broadwick St., tel. 44.20.7434.4335, www. lecomptoir.co.uk

Førest (below)

Chrysan (below)

Specializing in mid-century Scandinavian and Northern European design, Førest carries rare furniture, crockery and lighting, from legends such as Arne Vodder and Peter Hvidt.

115 Clerkenwell Rd., EC1R, tel.

44.75.3563.7731, forestlondon.com

At Chrysan, Michelin-starred chef Yoshihiro Murata offers his own take on refined Japanese cuisine. Try the confit of cherry wood smoked Scottish salmon or the Welsh lamb chops in three styles.

1 Snowden St., EC2A, tel. 44.20.3657.4777, chrysan.co.uk

Peter and Alice (above)

Judi Dench and Ben Wishaw star in Peter and Alice, a play based on the 1932 meeting of Alice Liddell Hargreaves, the woman behind Lewis Carroll’s Alice in Wonderland, and Peter Llewellyn Davies, who inspired Peter Pan. On view until June 1 at Noel Coward Theater, 85-88 St. Martins Lane, WC2.

Sadik Alfraji (left) Man Ray Portraits (below)

This is the first major retrospective of Man Ray’s photographic portraits. Featuring over 150 vintage prints and key works, the show includes work published in Vogue and Vanity Fair.

On view until May 27 at the National Portrait Gallery, St. Martin’s Place, WC2H, tel.

44.20.7306.0055, www.npg.org.uk

Solo exhibit “I Do Not Feel That I Am Free” features the work of Sadik Alfraji. The Iraqi artist is best known for his solitary figures depicted in profile and set against stark backgrounds.

On view until April 27 at Ayyam, 143 New Bond St., W1S, tel. 44.20.7409.3568, www. ayyamgallery.com

Café Royal (above)

London’s legendary, five-star Café Royal hotel just reopened after a multimillion-dollar renovation. New attractions include the Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Center, scheduled to open this spring.

68 Regent St., W1B, tel. 44.20.7406.3333, www.hotelcaferoyal.com 51 A

A cityscape

Just in Paris

Christian Lacroix Maison (below)

Sacha Walckhoff, creative director of Christian Lacroix, has teamed up with Portuguese home accessories brand Vista Alegre to create a new, stylish collection of tableware and gift items for the French fashion house.

Visit www.christian-lacroix.fr

Howard Greenberg (below)

Hermès’ annual equestrian event is one of the top social events of the season. This spring, the Saut Hermès offers professionals and amateurs the chance to admire the world’s leading riders during an international showjumping competition.

April 12-14, Grand Palais, Avenue Winston Churchill, eighth arrondissement, tel.

33.1.40.17.47.00, www.sauthermes.org

Louis Vuitton (above)

After collaborating with Yayoi Kusama and Takashi Murakami, Louis Vuitton has commissioned three street artists to give a new look to its scarves: Aiko from Japan, American artist Retna and Os Gêmeos from Brazil.

101 Avenue des Champs-Elysées, eighth arrondissement, tel. 33.1.53.57.52.00, www. louisvuitton.com

©Howard Greenberg, Hermès, Christian Lacroix, Louis Vuitton

Exceptional prints from the private collection of New York gallerist Howard Greenberg are in Paris this season. Works on display include Dorothea Lange’s “Migrant Mother” and Ruth Orkin’s “American Girl in Italy.”

On view until April 28 at the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson, 2 Impasse Lebouls, 14th arrondissement, www.henricartierbresson.org

Saut Hermès (below)

A 52

INDULGE IN A SOOTHING SPA RETREAT. Baden Baden - Germany Monaco - France Karlovy Vary - Czech Republic Himalayas - India Villa Paradiso - Italy

www.kurbantravel.com facebook.com/kurbantravel twitter.com/kurbantravel +961 1 614 914

A cityscape

Just in Milan

Fedra by Tiziana Fausti (right)

Italian designer Tiziana Fausti has launched a new collection of handbags dedicated to her mother, Fedra. The limited edition line features handbags and shoulder bags made from crocodile that are available only on the brand’s website.

Visit www.tizianafausti.com

Magna Pars Suites (below)

Milan’s spectacular Magna Pars Suites is housed inside a former perfume factory. The city’s first hotel à parfum offers 28 suites, each inspired by a particular fragrance, like gardenia, jasmine or magnolia.

6 Via Forcella, tel. 39.02.833.8371, www. magnapars-suitesmilano.it

Romeo Santamaria (above)

Bon Wei (below)

Even though its arrival in Milan is recent, Bon Wei restaurant has already garnered a cult following. Here, chef Guoquing Zhang offers refined Chinese cuisine amid a storybook, contemporary setting.

16/18 Via Castelvetro, tel. 39.02.341.308, www.bon-wei.it

Marni (left)

For fall/winter 2013-14, Marni is “austere but romantic,” according to Consuelo Castiglioni.

Masculine textures like flannel and tweed are cut into strict silhouettes, then softened with feminine details like bustiers and corseting.

50 Via della Spiga, tel. 39.02.7631.7327, www. marni.com

Swiss Corner (above)

The delightful new bistro Swiss Corner, set in the same building that houses the Swiss consulate, is one of only a handful of Milan restaurants that serve food continuously, from 7:30am in the morning until 2am in the late night.

Piazza Cavour at Via Palestro, tel.

39.02.7639.0698, www.swisscornermilano.it A 54

©Bon Wei, Tiziana Fausti, Magna Pars Suites, Marni, Romeo Santamaria, Swiss Corner

The new Romeo Santamaria boutique opened in February on Milan’s most prestigious avenue. The space sells luxurious handbags and wallets made from leather, crocodile and ostrich, and that range in cost from €4,000 to €20,000. All designs are by Peggy Huyn Kinh.

5 Via della Spiga.

A cityscape

Just in Vienna

Lobmeyr (right)

Every year, Viennese glass manufacturer Lobmeyr invites an artist or designer to create a unique piece. This time around, London-based designer Michael Anastassiades has imagined a lamp in the shape of intermingling crystal globes that evokes the human eye.

Visit www.lobmeyr.at

Franz West (below)

This retrospective of the late, great Austrian artist Franz West’s work includes furniture, sculpture, video and work on paper.

On view until May 26 at MUMOK, MuseumsQuartier, 1 Museumplatz, tel.

43.1.525.00, www.mumok.at

Puff Bar (below)

A former haunt of Vienna’s ladies of the night, Puff Bar has received a design makeover by Walking Chair, transforming it into the city’s hottest nightspot. The room is lit by 99 LED lights, which shine in 20 different colors and are controlled by 99 remotes.

10 Girardigasse, tel. 43.664.534.6564, puffbar.at

Late 2012 saw the opening of Sans Souci, a boutique hotel with interiors designed by yoo.

The luxurious Vienna property houses 63 rooms and suites, a spa and La Véranda restaurant.

1 Museumstrasse, tel. 43.1.522.2520, www. sanssouci-wien.com

Chez Cliché (above)

A chic alternative to hotels, Chez Cliché offers designer rooms and apartments inspired by well-known artistic and cultural figures. The Koloman apartment, for example, is styled like a stage because the late Austrian artist Koloman Moser loved theater.

Tel. 43.1.943.6948, www.chezcliche.com A 56

©Chez Cliché, Lobmeyr, Puff Bar, Sans Souci, Franz West

Sans Souci (below)

HERE’S TO

EXQUISITE BEGINNINGS

HEARTMADE patchi.com

Patchi Weddings 23x30.indd 1

3/18/13 2:49 PM

A cityscape

Just in New York

Impressionism, Fashion and Modernity (below)

Bernardaud (left)

Sirio Ristorante (below)

Sirio Maccioni, owner of New York’s famed Le Cirque restaurant, is the force behind new Sirio Ristorante, located inside the iconic Pierre Hotel. More casual than Le Cirque, the place offers Italian cuisine inspired by the Tuscan dishes of Maccioni’s youth.

795 Fifth Ave., tel. 1.212.940.8195, siriony.com

Egyptian chair (below)

A fixture of Danish design, Ole Wanscher’s Egyptian folding chair combines functionality with elegance. The chair comes in black, cognac or natural saddle leather and is available from Carl Hansen & Son. 304 Hudson St., tel. 1.212.242.6736, www. carlhansen.com

Akram Zaatari (below)

Lebanese artist Akram Zaatari’s work explores the state of image-making today. “Projects 100: Akram Zaatari” features two of his video installations, “Dance to the End of Love” and “On Photography, People and Modern Times.”

On view from May 11-September 23 at MoMA, 11 W. 53rd St., www.moma.org

A 58

Harding’s (below)

Chef Ariel Fox cooks up traditional American fare at the newly opened and already ultrapopular Harding’s in Flatiron. Menu specials have included warm octopus and potato salad and roasted chicken with whole grain mustard.

32 E. 21st St., tel. 1.212.600.2105, www. hardingsnyc.com

©Alice + Olivia, Bernardaud, Carl Hansen & Son, Jay DeFeo/Whitney, John Halpern/Museum of the City of New York, Harding’s, Hudson Common, Claude Monet/Musée d’Orsay, Pig and Khao, Sirio, Akram Zaatari/MoMA

French porcelain manufacturer Bernardaud celebrates its 150th anniversary with a new, artist-designed range of dinnerware by the likes of David Salle. Lebanese artist Nabil Nahas designed the Etoiles collection pictured here.

499 Park Ave., tel. 1.212.371.4300, www. bernardaud.fr

This exhibit takes a look at the role of fashion in the works of the Impressionists and their contemporaries. Major paintings highlight the relationship between fashion and art from the mid-1860s to the mid-1880s.

On view until May 27 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 Fifth Ave., tel.

1.212.535.7710, www.metmuseum.org

Hudson Common (left)

Newly opened inside the Hudson Hotel near Columbus Circle, Hudson Common is a trendy joint offering grilled burgers, thricecooked fries and locally brewed beers.

356 W. 58th St., tel. 1.212.554.6217, hudsoncommonnyc.com

Gap Factory Store (left)

Harlem now lays claim to its own Gap Factory Store, on the main commercial drag of 125th Street, across from the legendary Apollo theater.

This is the first Gap store to open Uptown.

264 W. 125th St., tel. 1.212.222.2823, www. gap.com

Alice + Olivia (right)

Jay DeFeo (above)

“Jay DeFeo: A Retrospective” features nearly 150 of DeFeo’s works. The show traces themes the artist examined throughout her career in drawings, photographs, collages, jewelry and monumental paintings.

On view until June 2 at the Whitney Museum of American Art, 945 Madison Ave., tel.

1.212.570.3600, whitney.org

Making Room (below)

Stacey Bendet’s spring/summer 2013 collection for Alice + Olivia is inspired by the heady optimism of the late ‘50s. The line epitomizes the classic feminism of the mid-century American dream: bold, sexy and smart.

Three locations: 431 W. 14th St., 755 Madison Ave. and 80 W. 40th St., www. aliceandolivia.com

Showcasing innovative design solutions to better accommodate the city’s changing demographics, “Making Room: New Models for Housing New Yorkers” also features a full-scale, furnished micro-studio apartment.

On view until September 15 at the Museum of the City of New York, 1220 Fifth Ave., tel.

1.212.534.1672, www.mcny.org

Pig and Khao (left)

Former Top Chef contestant Leah Cohen opened Pig and Khao in the Lower East Side.

Sample grilled pork jowl with watermelon and grilled curry lamb ribs.

68 Clinton St., tel. 1.212.920.4485, pigandkhao.com 59 A

A cityscape

Just in Los Angeles Urs Fischer (below)

This is the first museum retrospective of works by Swiss-born artist Urs Fischer. The artist is known for using a range of media to express the transience of art. Iconic works and new productions are featured.

On view from April 21-August 19 at two locations: MOCA, 250 S. Grand Ave., and The Geffen Contemporary, 152 N. Central Ave., www.moca.org

Z Zegna (above)

LA’s first Z Zegna store opened in March.

Clean lines and a contemporary décor provide a sleek backdrop for the casually elegant men’s clothes, which seem to be tailor-made for the Southern California lifestyle.

Beverly Center, 8500 Beverly Blvd., tel.

1.310.855.9619, www.zegna.com

Stephen Prina (below)

It’s the biggest news to hit Robertson Boulevard. Tommy Hilfiger just opened a sprawling, ultra-glam flagship that carries the men’s and women’s lines and offers a VIP dressing room as well as exclusive pieces.

157 N. Robertson Blvd, tel. 1.310.247.1475, usa.tommy.com

Wilshire Grand (above)

Korean Air is set to build the American West’s tallest skyscraper in Downtown LA. The 73-story Wilshire Grand, at Wilshire Boulevard and Figueroa Street, will house offices and a hotel. The glass-clad tower is scheduled to be completed in 2017.

A 60

Le Ka (left)

Chef Remi Lauvand, who made a name for himself at Manhattan Beach’s Café Pierre, serves delectable specials at Le Ka, including braised rabbit with leek fondue and escargots with potato gnocchi.

800 W. 6th St., tel. 1.213.688.3000, lekarestaurant.com

©Urs Fischer/Sadie Coles, Le Ka, Stephen Prina/LACMA, Z Zegna

Tommy Hilfiger (above)

LA-based artist Stephen Prina unveils his installation “As He Remembered It.” Based on a memory from the ‘80s, the new artwork consists of 28 objects that Prina painted pink and restaged in a grid pattern.

On view from April 7-August 4 at LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., tel. 1.323.857.6000, www.lacma.org

A cityscape

Just in Boston The Sinclair (right)

Louis (below)

Restaurant and music venue The Sinclair recently started serving lunch as well as weekend brunch. Lunch specials include a signature burger with basil aioli, while brunch features stuffed French toast with apricot custard.

52 Church St., Cambridge, tel. 1.617.547.5200, www.sinclaircambridge.com

Boston’s most fashionable department store, Louis, opened a new outpost inside the luxurious Mandarin Oriental. The boutique offers personal shopping consults and selected pieces from the Fan Pier flagship.

776 Boylston St., tel. 1.617.603.2944, www. louisboston.com

Michelangelo (left)

The breathtaking exhibit, “Michelangelo: Sacred and Profane, Master Drawings from the Casa Buonarroti,” features a rich selection of 26 works from the great Italian artist’s collection.

On view from April 21-June 30 at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston, Avenue of the Arts, 465 Huntington Ave., tel. 1.617.267.9300, www. mfa.org

Fred Perry (below)

Tennis-inspired British brand Fred Perry just opened its third US store in Boston (the other two are in New York). The store carries menswear, womenswear, shoes and bags.

301 Newbury St., tel. 1.857.233.4698, www. fredperry.us

This survey of San Francisco artist Barry McGee’s work, from the ‘90s to the present, includes early works on paper, reassembled works from key installations and more.

On view from April 5-September 2 at the Institute for Contemporary Art, 100 Northern Ave., www.icaboston.org

Lincoln (left)

Serving upscale comfort food and featuring two bars that span the length of the enormous space, Lincoln has become Boston’s trendiest hangout since it opened in October. Pizza, sandwiches, pasta and other delights grace the menu created by chef Nicholas Dixon.

425 W. Broadway, South Boston, tel.

1.617.765.8636, lincolnsouthboston.com A 62

©Mariano Costa Peuser/Lindemann Collection, Lincoln, Louis, Museum of Fine Arts Boston, Fred Perry, The Sinclair

Barry McGee (right)

A cityscape

Just in Vancouver

Safar/Voyage (right)

Curated by Fereshteh Daftari, “Safar/Voyage: Contemporary Works by Arab, Iranian and Turkish Artists” is the first major exhibition in Canada that spotlights 16 contemporary artists from the Middle East, including Ayman Baalbaki (Lebanon), Ali Banisadr (Iran) and Youssef Nabil (Egypt).

On view from April 20-September 15 at the Museum of Anthropology, 6393 NW Marine Dr., tel. 1.604.827.4409, www.moa.ubc.ca

Colton’s Personal Couture (below)

For a memorable shopping experience, join Colton’s Personal Couture. Membership includes caviar tastings, Bentley car service and insider access to Céline, Christian Louboutin and Alexander McQueen.

1500-6081 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, tel.

1.604.713.8611, www.coltons.ca

Bard on the Beach (below)

Celebrating its 25th season this year, Bard on the Beach is one of Canada’s largest nonprofit professional Shakespeare Festivals.

Performances this year include Twelfth Night, Hamlet and Elizabeth Rex. June 11-September 14 at Vanier Park, 203-456 West Broadway, tel. 1.604.737.0625, www. bardonthebeach.org

Charting the evolution of the hotel from its beginning as just a “bed for a head” to a cultural phenomenon worldwide, “Grand Hotel” is an exhibit of contemporary hotel design inspired by the 1932 Hollywood classic film of the same name.

On view from April 13-September 15 at the Vancouver Art Gallery, 750 Hornby St., tel.

1.604.662.4719, www.vanartgallery.bc.ca

Vancouver Urban Winery (above)

Set in a historic Gastown building, Vancouver Urban Winery makes bottles and imports the best vintages in town. It’s also a hip place to sip and swirl.

55 Dunlevy Ave., tel. 1.604.566.9463, www. vancouverurbanwinery.com A 64

FlyOver Canada (below)

See the entire country from the sky, without ever leaving your seat. FlyOver Canada uses virtual flight-technology to take guests on a stunning multi-sensory ride over cities, mountains and vineyards.

999 Canada Place, www.flyovercanada.com

©Bard on the Beach, Colton’s, FlyOver Canada, Museum of Anthropology, Vancouver Art Gallery, Vancouver Urban Winery

Grand Hotel (above)

A cityscape

Just in Dubai

Shadi Habib Allah (right)

The work of Palestinian-born artist Shadi Habib Allah has been exhibited in London’s Tate Modern and at Art Basel in Switzerland. This solo show explores the concept of subjective interpretation.

On view until May 5 at Green Art Gallery, Al Quoz 1, Street 8, Alserkal Ave., tel.

971.4.346.9305, www.gagallery.com

Chanel (left)

The season’s greatest fashion exhibit, “The Little Black Jacket” features photos of iconic Chanel jackets as shot by the house’s creative director, Karl Lagerfeld.

On view from April 27-May 11 at The Venue, Mohammed Bin Rashid Blvd., thelittleblackjacket.chanel.com

Ritz-Carlton Spa (below)

One of the city’s most iconic hotels has just received a major makeover. The new-look spa blends mystical Eastern design details with European wellness traditions, and includes a hammam area.

Jumeirah Beach, tel. 971.4.399.4000, www.ritzcarlton.com

Bobbi Brown (below)

Opening a studio space as your flagship is a natural move for a brand with such a strong emphasis on teaching makeup artistry.

A private boudoir provides an intimate setting for one-on-one sessions.

Dubai Mall, www.bobbibrowncosmetics.com

Zahr Art (above)

Fairmont The Palm (right)

Incorporating contemporary style and Arabic influences, Fairmont The Palm, designed by DSA Architects, has been executed in light sandstone hues and earthy materials to complement the stunning beachfront location.

The Palm, www.fairmont.com A 66

©Bobbi Brown, Chanel, Fairmont, Green Art Gallery, Ritz-Carlton, Zahr Art

This unique, Dubai-based website brings together established and emerging artists, highlighting those from the Middle East. Ethical designers and eco-friendly craftsmen take the forefront.

Visit www.zahrart.com

W W W. REEMACR A .COM / W W W. REEMACR AFR AGR ANCE.COM

TH E N EW FRAG RANCE FOR WOM E N

ReemAcra_Aishti_Ar_230X300.indd 1

3/18/13 5:30 PM

WWW.AISHTIBLOG.COM

WWW.AISHTIBLOG.COM

w w w. c a n a l i . i t

av a i l a b l e a t 225 Foch St., Downtown Beirut - Lebanon Te l . + 9 6 1 1 9 9 1 1 1 1 E x t . 4 8 0

Beirut 225 rue Foch Downtown Solidere - tel. 01.991111 Ext 500 A誰shti Downtown Beirut - tel. 01.991111 A誰shti Dunes Center Verdun Street - tel. 01.793777 A誰shti Seaside Jal El Dib Highway - tel. 04.717716

FACONNABLE.COM

C’EST FAÇONNABLE.

AVAILABLE AT AÏSHTI STORES +961 1 99 11 11

Funk to funky

By Grace Banks

David Bowie and his enormous impact on pop culture Spiritual leader. Rock god. Sex symbol. During his fivedecade career, David Bowie has cemented his status as an international icon. With a capacity to transform his identity, he’s re-created the cultural landscape around him. Ideas of Bowie as a renaissance man, as a style icon, as more than music and lyrics are explored in the Victoria and Albert Museum’s (V&A) major retrospective, “David Bowie is,” running until July 28 in London.

The show’s curators Geoffrey Marsh and Victoria Broackes were given unprecedented access to an archive of Bowie artifacts, containing handwritten lyrics and never-seen-before costumes. “From a V&A perspective,

A 80

©Duffy Archive, Studiocanal Films, Sukita/The David Bowie Archive 2012, V&A Images

A playground _ musician

– music videos, album covers and even merchandise.”

his breath of influences make him a sort of conduit to a history of 20th-century culture,” head curator Marsh explains. Remember the Vogue shoot featuring Kate Moss as Aladdin Zane? The fall/winter 2011-12 Dries Van Noten show?

Bowie is undoubtedly one of the most important style icons of the modern world, with fashion houses and prestigious brands continuing to reference him as a cultural legend. “Bowie is not just a pioneer in music,” Marsh adds, “but also in rock theater, video and art direction. He is unique in that he creatively directed all aspects of his image

Bowie’s influence continues to shape contemporary culture, rendering the subject particularly relevant to the V&A. The cultural influence Bowie has held over the 20th century is echoed and reflected in the gallery’s vast international art collections.

“He takes influence spanning from German expressionism, surrealism, theater of cruelty and French chanson, among others. By absorbing ideas from the world around him and introducing them in his own innovative way to a very large number of people, he has a huge cultural force.”

Bowie’s impact even goes beyond music and fashion.

“David Bowie is” showcases rare records, clothes, artifacts and scribblings. The costumes created for the Ziggy Stardust

tour are displayed alongside handwritten set lists and lyrics as well as diary entries from Bowie’s early days as a South London teenager, each piece offering an extra insight into the mind of this modern legend. “Clearly Bowie went through many stylistic changes before he found fame. But for Bowie, change is his style. He’s the opposite of someone who finds a winning formula and sticks to it. He finds one and does something else. That’s his formula,” Marsh explains.

The Bowie effect is still present today; constant aesthetic evolution is part of his unique brand, and pop culture in itself.

The finale of the show comes in the form of a never-before-seen film, The Wider World: David Bowie Is All Around You, a series of rare archived footage of the star. A fitting tribute to an icon who is still shaping the way we experience pop culture.

81 A

A playground _ music

Involver 3 by Sasha

Tech house DJ Sasha goes deep on this double album, weaving from ambient tracks to disco beats without stopping to pause between songs. The xx, Ananda Project, Little Dragon, ThermalBear, Blondes and Foals make a showing, and then there’s “Shoot You Down,” an original cut by the DJ himself, featuring vocalist Kicki Halmos.

Beyond Brit pop

Graffiti on the Train by Stereophonics

Stereophonics frontman Kelly Jones says that Graffiti on the Train is an unpredictable album. The theme here is broken hearts, whether it’s the lost love of “Indian Summer” or the pain in “Been Caught Cheating.”

Overgrown by James Blake

If you think of James Blake as synonymous with dubstep, think again. His sophomore effort has him collaborating with Brian Eno on “Digital Lion” and RZA of the Wu-Tang Clan on “Take a Fall for Me.” The track “Retrograde” stands out – it’s gorgeous, with vocals that have a ‘90s R&B vibe.

The Next Day by David Bowie

For his first album in 10 years, David Bowie returns to his roots. All of them. There are nods to Ziggy Stardust and acid rock, surreal experiments and industrial music. But the lyrics reveal the singer looking unblinkingly forward, contemplating aging and the troubled state of the world.

The Singles Collection by Killing Joke Delta Machine by Depeche Mode

Singer Dave Gahan described his synthpop band’s 13th album as having “more rawness.”

Lead single “Heaven” paves the way for soulful moments that have more in common with the blues (“Slow”) and hard-edged electronic music than pop.

A 82

Lead vocalist Jaz Coleman explains this retrospective collection: “Considering it’s supposed to be the end of the world in a short time, it gives me great pleasure to announce a new singles album with some real rarities on it.” The mishmash of primal post-punk contains some surprising choices as well as omissions.

BOOK YOUR INTERNATIONAL EVENTS ON AUDIEVENTCLUB.COM Audi Event Club is a website dedicated to Bank Audi Cardholders giving you the opportunity to access the most important happenings around the world through a personalized service.

Book from the comfort of your home and benefit from the best deals. By using Audi Event Club, you will be able to book for: • Celebrity music concerts • Football, tennis, basketball and golf tournaments • Red carpet events • Travel packages • Prestigious fashion shows • Motor racing packages • International theatre plays and musicals

Powered by

AEC Print 23x30cm E.indd 1

3/13/13 11:00 AM

A playground _ movies

Feast for the eyes

By Salma Abdelnour

Films with unforgettable food scenes

Il Gattopardo Sicily, 1860. Armed rebels, led by the revolutionary leader Giuseppe Garibaldi, are trying to overthrow Italy’s local monarchies and establish a democracy. The film takes us into the aristocratic world of the Sicilian Prince of Salina (Burt Lancaster), as he figures out how to navigate the changing political tides. In an early scene, during a lavish dinner party at the palace, waiters wearing black waistcoats and ascots walk into the dining room holding platters of timballo, an enormous medieval puff-pastry pie made of layers of pigeon and pasta in a creamy sauce. As the prince ceremoniously slices the top of the first timballo and tips back the crust, it’s nearly impossible not to dream about what a bite of the buttery, creamy, crunchy-crusted pie might taste like.

A 84

Eat Drink Man Woman A widowed chef in Taiwan (Sihung Lung) cooks dinner for his three daughters every Sunday night, and as they sit around the table week after week, they try to repress built-up resentments. The crackling tension makes for powerful on-screen moments, but the real drama in Ang Lee’s 1994 film happens in the kitchen, as the camera lingers on the father while he assembles delicate crab dumplings, roasts lusciouslooking duck and fills the table with steaming-hot, saucy Taiwanese meat and seafood specialties. As we watch the chef create dishes that look painfully alluring, we learn that he lost his own sense of taste years ago – but he gets it back as the film nears its shocking conclusion.

I Am Love A wealthy family in Milan copes with the death of its patriarch, the impending sale of its successful textile business and the rebellious impulses of the younger generation. Meanwhile, the mother (Tilda Swinton) finds herself inconveniently drawn to a young chef who befriends her

son – and who creates gorgeous, inventive dishes that startle her out of her jaded ennui. Frame after frame, the film is impeccably shot and skillfully acted, but the moments featuring food are the most memorable, particularly a scene involving the Russian fish soup called ukha, and a scene where Swinton slices, very slowly, into a juicy, glistening shrimp served on top of a postmodern version of ratatouille.

Jiro Dreams of Sushi This 2012 documentary focuses on the life and legacy of Jiro Ono, the obsessive 85-year-old owner of the Tokyo restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro, arguably the best sushi restaurant in the world. Filmmaker David Gelb follows Jiro as he shows the audience how he creates the mind-blowing, delicious food that keeps his 10-seat restaurant booked weeks in advance. After watching Jiro and his staff gently handle and slice the fresh seafood, massage the octopus and shape the clusters of warm, vinegar rice that will hold perfect little pieces of tuna or saltwater eel or mackerel, it’s impossible to ever look at sushi the same way again.

©Mélanie Dagher

Food scenes are common in movies, but only a few of those on-screen moments are so powerful, so mouth-watering, they make the audience want to stick a fork into the screen.

Films like Babette’s Feast, Tampopo and Big Night have become famous for their eating scenes, but a number of other movies, new and classic, deserve credit for using food in brilliant and unexpected ways to convey meaning, portray a specific moment in time and fill viewers with a desire to go out and eat the exact same thing right now.

A playground _ books

Taschen’s London

This is the most beautiful guide to London ever published.

Created by Angelika Taschen and divided into three distinct sections (hotels, restaurants and shops), the lush, colorful volume offers intelligent reviews of each place accompanied by spectacular photographs.

Eat Shop Drink

Spring reading

Part of Taschen’s Architecture Now! book series, Eat Shop Drink highlights the most architecturally splendid restaurants, shop and bars designed in recent years.

Projects by the likes of Jean Nouvel, Peter Marino and David Chipperfield are featured, along with glorious photographs.

The Curse of Lono

Hunter S. Thompson and Ralph Steadman’s The Curse of Lono is not for the faint of heart.

Originally published in 1983 and re-issued by Taschen in a limited edition, the book describes Thompson’s experiences in Hawaii in 1980, complemented

by Steadman’s wild artwork.

British Artists at Work

Offering a fascinating look into contemporary art, Assouline’s British Artists at Work looks at four generations of artists, from established luminaries to emerging talent. Anish Kapoor, Antony Gormley, Tracey Emin, Marc Quinn and Fiona Rae are some of the artists shot by Amanda Eliasch and profiled by Gemma de Cruz.

Bright Young Things London

This gigantic Assouline book, encased in a luxurious velvet box and authored by Vivienne Becker, showcases over 100 pieces created by Paris jeweler and master artisan Alexandre Reza. Diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies are handcrafted to create heartstopping jewelry pieces.

A 86

Available at Aïshti stores.

©Raya Farhat

Alexandre Reza

Author Brooke de Ocampo and photographer Jonathan Becker offer profiles of London’s most interesting young luminaries in Assouline’s Bright Young Things London. Get personal with artists Sue Webster and Tim Noble, Tamara Mellon (co-founder of Jimmy Choo), hat designer Philip Treacy, architect David Adjaye and many more.

A誰shti Downtown Beirut 01. 99 11 11

A playground _ magazine

Online to print

By J. Michael Welton

Wayfare hits newsstands with its first print issue After seven years online (and three million page views) the first issue of Wayfare magazine is now in print. It’s been created by two partners – a writer/editor and a photographer/creative director – dedicated to the idea that travel can be easy and efficient, even on the run.

“We want to redefine the travel magazine,” says Erica Dublin, editor of the magazine she launched in January. “It’s about the journey and the experience – about the slow travel movement, like slow food – for the young people who are definitely leading the charge.”

With 48 oversized pages, the four-color magazine offers a luxurious, tactile feel.

It’s driven by a slab-serif Sentinel typeface (but that could change with each issue), and it’s stitched together in a side-sewn fashion with black thread. A perforated, tear-out postcard is incorporated into its front cover.

“We wanted Wayfare to have a utilitarian, A 88

luxe look and feel,” Wong says. “The thread detail and postcard are branded elements that give Wayfare its signature look, a little something special to hold on to.”

Every page in every issue will look different, so that when the magazine is opened, it appeals to the reader’s adventurous and experiential spirit. “We wanted it to be special, with a feeling that you’d want to sit down with your morning coffee, and spend an hour with it,” Dublin says. “It’s not about lists, like Travel + Leisure, which never spoke to my wanderlust.”

So who in the world would launch a print magazine at a time when other publications are dropping like flies? “Crazy people,” says

Dublin with a laugh. “But I wanted to feel this in my hands.”

Crazy like a pair of foxes, some might say.

Dublin is the former head of public relations for Lucasfilm, and someone who spent 90 percent of her eight years there traveling to Europe and Asia. And Wong was deeply involved as an art director with Martha Stewart’s “Martha by Mail,” handling design, photo shoots and packaging for the iconic brand.

Their experience shows: they’re starting cautiously, with just two issues per year – one for fall and winter, and the other for spring and summer. But then again, Wayfare is all about going slow, isn’t it?

©Wayfare

Wayfare is designed to ferret out the food, fashion, design and artisans that might be found in a particular place, and look at how each intersects with the others. Imagery and articles all stem from a personal viewpoint about travel, and what inspired a particular writer during and after their journey. “It’s about how I like to travel – to walk a city and get lost, immersed in its culture and people,” says Peggy Wong, whose lush photos and exquisite typography grace the first issue. “There’s just something special about wandering around in a place and not being worried about it.”

JIMMYCHOO.COM

LEBANON Beirut Fakhry Bey street BEIRUT SOUKS 01 99 11 11 ext 595

A fashion _ runway

Shine on

By Gail Goldberg

The brightest new metallics

Burberry

Spring is a time for reflection.

Not of the “take stock of your life” variety, but of the “slip into something shiny and polished” kind. In other words, there’s no hotter trend right now than metallics – in eyepopping saturated shades (and prints).

Burberry Chloé

A 90

The new shimmery crop of metallics is fresh and fabulous in beyond-vivid shades of fuchsia and violet, amped-up citron and tangerine, and high-octane blue and green – precisely like those found in Burberry’s shockingly chic collection. The label’s ruched satin swimsuits, form-fitting frocks and insouciant capes clearly telegraph British glamour with a nod to ‘40s style. The modern-day twist comes courtesy of designer Christopher Bailey’s use of electric colors, both alone and, in some cases, mixed to charming ombré effect. What

©Burberry, Chloé, Dior, Diane von Furstenberg

Swimsuits to skirts, sheaths to sandals, a myriad of magnetic styles grace the spring/ summer 2013 collections of many of our favorites à la Burberry, Diane von Furstenberg, Dior and Chloé. Translation: day or night, all your metal cravings will be satisfied.

Dior

of the iconic trench? Color coated in a rainbow’s worth of intense metallic jewel tones – and an absolute showstopper.

Diane von Furstenberg gives Burberry a run for its money when it comes to high shine and bold color. A Morocco-inspired palette of bright red and electric teal add vibrancy to the flowy, bohemian silhouettes of the Palazzo collection, where metallic fabrications are used primarily in separates – palazzo pants, narrow trousers, studded tanks and caftans. Keeping the shine focused adds both depth and versatility. This same concept works its magic on our favorite color-blocked sheath. Only one of the geometric (electric teal) panels is shimmery, but the whole look shines brightly.

Dior’s latest ready-to-wear offerings shine brightly as well.

However, here the vivid color and metallic sheen skew soft and pretty. Clearly channeling the spirit of the namesake founder, Raf Simons’ masterfully draped iridescent tunics, trapeze tops and asymmetric frocks are light and airy in sorbet shades. The romance blossoms bolder with the full-skirted pièce de résistance that closed the designer’s spring runway show: big floral-printed blooms pop off the voluminous skirt made of satin duchesse – and serve as the perfect foil to a sleek black cashmere-knit top.

Diane von Furstenberg

Not currently in the market for a ball gown but something a bit more laid-back? No problem: Chloé to the rescue with a luxe bronze-y champagne metallic look, exuding its trademark effortless chic. A large amorphous leaf (or Rorschach-esque) print smothers a squared-off top with exaggerated sleeves and loosely tailored Bermuda shorts.

The result is modern and feminine with boyish charm, and absolutely easy to wear. Urban gals, shine on.

91 A

A fashion _ men

The cult of British menswear

By MacKenzie Lewis

Burberry and Ben Sherman show two different sides of British style

The Burberry trench coat has draped the backs of everyone from Daniel Craig to punk royalty Sid Vicious, David Beckham and, more recently, his 10-year-old son Romeo. What started in 1856 as an outerwear shop for hunters and fishermen has now evolved into one of London Fashion Week’s biggest draws. In fact, Vogue once dubbed the brand “a true symbol of Englishness, as British as marmalade on toast.” With its familiar check and camelcolored gabardine, is there a bigger icon of British men’s fashion?

“Although big brands like Burberry have played up their Britishness over recent years – Britishness is having a fashionable moment as people pay renewed attention to provenance – that strikes me more as marketing than genuine pride,” says London-based Josh Sims, author of a new book titled 50 Years of British Style Culture.

With its online shopping feature (one of the few luxury brands who have developed A 92

Ben Sherman

©Burberry, Ben Sherman

That depends who you ask.

Burberry Brit

Burberry London

Burberry Prorsum

one), streaming runway shows and over 500 boutiques in 50 countries, Sims claims that Burberry is less a British icon than a global brand without borders: “In terms of actual impact on culture, Ben Sherman – among other names – strikes me as far more authentically British.” When a fashion house counts Brad Pitt, the Black Eyed Peas, Will.i.am and Chinese teenagers among its loyal, check-wearing clients, he may just have a point.

Sherman was associated with rockers, punks and England’s northern soul scene, among others. Sims sees the dynamic not as a brand influencing culture, but about culture assigning meaning to a brand. “The last 50 odd years has seen a remarkable run of these mostly working-class and often music-based cultures of real and lasting significance, both sartorially and socially,” he says.

were designed to keep air force pilots, motorbike riders and even Arctic explorers protected from the elements. It wasn’t until D-list celebrities and middle America started wearing it over a century later that its authenticity was called into question.

Ben Sherman has been around for only 50 years, so there’s still a chance it will duplicate Burberry’s global success by the time Romeo Beckham is old enough for a suit.

And that may in fact be what sets British men’s fashion apart from its fashion-capital counterparts, the buttoned-up Italians and the contrived, experimental French.

“London benefits from being less concerned with the diktats of fashion and more with wearability and functionality,” says Sims.

“That may not be sexy, but it’s what the vast majority of men want…They like what they like, but rarely do they want to draw attention to themselves.”

Who will take the reigns then? Sims tosses out names like Albam, Oliver Spencer and Nigel Cabourn, adding, “It’s less about designers in my opinion – that’s more to do with fashion. It’s about brands that represent a certain ethos, typically those that foreground clothing over the cult of personality.” What can be good for business can also be a curse, but perhaps that doesn’t matter. Sims says the defining characteristics of British men’s fashion are dependability, tidiness and honesty, qualities both brands have managed to maintain, regardless of their popularity.

For the future of British style, that’s nothing short of a gift.

50 Years of British Style Culture focuses on the role of men’s style, and Ben Sherman in particular, in British subcultures on this, the 50th anniversary of the brand. Ben Sherman wanted to publish a retrospective celebrating a history that many of its customers – especially its younger customers – didn’t know much about. The book details a half-century of dominant British subcultures and the styles they made popular. It also includes a history of the brand, a company that started in 1963 and took off when the well-dressed, Vespa-riding mods adopted its buttondown shirts. In the following decades, Ben

The irony is that Burberry started out as a brand based on function. Thomas Burberry first developed gabardine, and then the trench coat, out of necessity; his clothes

93 A

A fashion _ brands

Dsquared2

Dsquared2

Elizabeth and James

Designing duos Sometimes, it takes two minds to create a fashion label

A 94

While designers working on their own abound, and while, admittedly, some of the globe’s most recognized brands proudly bear the single last name of their founder (Dior, Prada, Gucci), some of the most popular contemporary brands have two – not one – creatives at the helm.

Dsquared2 These two young men have been together since birth. Dean and Dan Caten are the youngest of nine children, and they got their start in fashion early, by designing clothes for their older sisters, eventually

moving to New York in 1983 to attend Parsons School of Design. They relocated to Italy in 1991, launching their first collection in 1994. Even back then, their clothes playfully mixed irreverent Canadian wit with refined Italian tailoring, laying the foundation of today’s Dsquared 2 philosophy.

The Dsquared 2 spring/summer 2013 collection is a fun, sexy ride through the ‘90s featuring microscopic denim shorts, shrunken leather jackets and a black dress with corset detailing.

©Dsquared2, Elizabeth & James, Tavan & Mitto, UNTTLD

By Anthony Klatt and Melanie Reffes

Tavan & Mitto

Tavan & Mitto

UnTTlD

Elizabeth and James Dsquared 2 is the brainchild of twins boys, and Elizabeth and James is the fashion baby of twin girls, the rockalicious Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen. Elizabeth and James is designed to bridge the gap between designer and contemporary wear, with an aim to appeal to both Uptown and Downtown New York women. The playful brand includes women’s ready-to-wear and accessories.

magenta. The basic blacks are all still here as well.

Montreal boutique. “Our priority is to flatter the natural curves and femininity of all women, which we do with our jackets, skirts and floor-length gowns,” says Tavan.

The Olsens say that their spring/ summer 2013 collection “channels the quintessential continental woman, whose effortless, polished wardrobe epitomizes the exotic glamour of today’s traveler.”

With that in mind, jackets and pants of the new collection come in colors inspired

by Moroccan sunrises and sunsets, while an elongated, oversized blazer and its matching cuffed pants glow in vibrant

Tavan & Mitto Tavan & Mitto know how to satisfy even the most demanding woman. Working in their funky Montreal studio, this designing duo is revered by fashionistas not only for their made-to-measure line and prêt-àporter collection, but also for their ability to make women feel good. “We outfit the most elegant women, and we are privy to many of their secrets which, by the way, stay with us,” says Mike Mitto. He and design partner Payam Tavan honed their skills in France, where Mitto was recruited by Chanel for several seasons.

Designing together since 1995, the duo have earned legions of adoring fans, including Celine Dion, who shops in their

UNTTLD José Manuel St. Jacques and Simon Bélanger are the newest stars on the Montreal fashion landscape. Their cutting-edge label UNTTLD offers signature pieces infused with a tapered Asian flair. Inspired by Haiku poetry and Kabuki theater, their collection brings an urban edge to chic design. “The Far East intrigues us because the aesthetics are visually pleasing,” says St. Jacques. Timeless yet trendy, UNTTLD clothes include a hybrid between a kimono and a man’s shirt that is made from crushed silk with an open military back.

“Nothing about what we do is easy,” says Bélanger, “just easy to wear.”

95 A

fashion _ london

Showing in London

By Tala Habbal

UK fashionistas are already preparing for next winter!

London’s punks, models, starlets and fashion junkies were out in full force during London Fashion Week this past February.

With shows taking place at various locations all over town, the usually gloomy city was brightened up by a mega dose of beautiful couture and high-intensity catwalks.

the front rowers – showcased a beautiful medley of classic pencil skirts, sweaters and belted coats updated with a modern edge of latex and animal print galore.

Kitten heels and a recurring heart print balanced out the otherwise risqué looks.

Burberry

The home of native Navajo Indians acted as the source of inspiration for Issa’s understated chic fall/winter 2013-14 collection. Pleat front trousers, circle skirt dresses and fitted jackets, fashioned from woven monochrome feather jacquard in a variety of geometric prints, transformed the runway into a Native Americaninspired extravaganza. Glam felt fedoras topped with three-foot feather twills were paired with breezy silk chiffon kaftans

Best known in the ‘60s for prostitution and canoodling with famous politicians, showgirl Christine Keeler served as Christopher Bailey’s muse for his latest fall/winter 2013-24 Burberry Prorsum collection, Trench Kisses. The celebritypacked fashion show held in London’s Kensington Gardens – Rita Ora, Kate Beckinsale, Tinie Tempah and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley were just a few of A 96

Issa

©Burberry, Tom Ford, Issa, Moschino Cheap and Chic

Burberry Prorsum

Issa

Moschino Cheap and Chic

Tom Ford

boasting intricately beaded fringe collars.

Issa’s mainstay silk jersey gowns also made an appearance in bright coral, burgundy and jade green.

glitter onto boxy blazers, short ruffled dresses and statement jackets. London certainly agrees with the Italian label.

Moschino Cheap and Chic

Justin Timberlake and new wife Jessica Biel sat front row in the lavish grand reception rooms at London’s Lancaster House for Tom Ford’s first public comeback runway show since the American designer founded his own label in 2005. The over-the-top Cross Cultural Multi-Ethnic collection – think multicolored sequined hoodies and bomber jackets, leopard spotted parkas, floral boots, western fringe detailing and cartoonish Ka-Pow motifs plastered on skirts and sweaters – was a testament to the versatility of Ford’s innate and übercool design aesthetic.

The ornate setting for Moschino Cheap and Chic’s fall/winter 2013-14 show could not have been more fitting for the eccentric Italian label. The exquisite ballroom in London’s famed Savoy Hotel was the scene of a British pop culture fest, with celebrities and models from Pixie Lott to Daisy Lowe showing up to view the rebellious punk-inspired collection.

Designer Francesco Rubino focused on giving tough, rock ‘n’ roll elements a lighter touch by infusing bright pops of Barbie doll pink, polka dots, mohair and

Tom Ford

97 A

A fashion _ brand

Dream bag

By Marwan Naaman and Alexander Wilson

Bottega Veneta’s arm candy will make you swoon

Set on the display shelves lining the walls of the boutique, the clutch bags were accompanied by display cards that indicated the style of the particular Knot bag, as well as the collection to which it belonged. The oldest bags were simply designated “vintage.”

In addition to showcasing the intricate craftsmanship of the Knot bags (each is handmade and takes a minimum of three A 98

©Bottega Veneta

Last March, Downtown Beirut’s luxurious Bottega Veneta boutique played host to “The Knot: A Retrospective,” a one-night exhibit that showcased 106 of the Italian brand’s iconic Knot bags. The models on display ranged from vintage designs that harked back to the beginnings of the label to more recent releases by current creative director Tomas Maier. The name of the bag comes from the knot clasp that fastens on top.

days to complete), and the variety of incarnations this special bag has taken on over the years, the event was special because it only takes place in a handful of cities each year, and this time around Bottega Veneta chose Beirut for its exhibit.

Established in 1966, Bottega Veneta is one of the world’s leading leather goods producers. Founded by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro in the Veneto region of northern Italy, the brand developed from a small artisan accessories producer to a global fashion house, complete with readyto-wear lines for both men and women.

Throughout this evolution, Bottega Veneta’s expertise in craftsmanship has been beautifully maintained.

When Taddei and Zengiaro first ventured into leather-making they were faced with a major problem. The Veneto region was a producer of clothing, and available

factory machinery could not cope with stitching the supple leather designs together. Yet, by thinking outside the box, Taddei and Zengiaro thought of an ingenious solution: weaving. Taking thin strips of leather and weaving them together, they created the intrecciato weave that has become synonymous with the brand.

For spring/summer 2013, Bottega Veneta has redesigned its other signature bag, the Cabat, which was originally introduced by Maier in his first collection for the brand. A kaleidoscope of butterflies adorn the top, creating one of the most covetable bags of the season.

The intrecciato weave design includes 60 butterflies, each individually hand-sewn onto the bag. The limited edition butterfly design is so exclusive that only 200 of the bags have been produced – ensuring that they’ll instantly fly out of stores.

99 A

A fashion _ accessories

Caught on tape Photographer Tony Elieh Stylist Mouna Harati

Jimmy Choo shoes, LL2,542,500; miu miu swimsuit, LL397,500; Dolce & Gabbana bag; LL1,762,500; Dolce & Gabbana earrings; LL1,522,500

A 100

miu miu swimsuit, LL352,500; Giambattista Valli belt, LL592,500; CĂŠline bag, LL4,335,000; Balenciaga round bag, LL2,460,000; Prada shoes, LL1,252,500; Delfina Delettrez bracelet, LL3,523,500

101 A

A fashion _ accessories

miu miu swimsuit, LL352,000; Saint Laurent shoes, LL1,335,000; Saint Laurent bag, LL3,075,000; Alexandre Vauthier rings, LL1,755,000 (each); Alexandre Vauthier belt worn as a necklace, LL3,030,000

A 102

Dsquared2 swimsuit, LL742,500; Marni bracelet, LL1,005,000; Dior shoes, LL1,530,000; Jason Wu clutch, LL3,937,500

103 A

A fashion _ accessories

Hervé Léger swimsuit, LL1,830,000; Céline shoes, LL;1,267,500; Fendi necklace, LL1,620,000; Marni bracelet, LL735,000

A 104

Hervé Léger swimsuit, LL1,830,000; Nancy Gonzalez clutch, LL4,935,000; Dsquared2 bracelets, LL232,500 (each); Casadei shoes, LL1,215,000. Available at Aïshti stores.

105 A

A fashion _ hot stuff

Prada

Dressed to chill What to wear when visiting London’s trendiest haunts

Fendi Dries Van Noten

Oscar de la Renta

Maison Martin Margiela

miu miu

Christopher Kane Oscar de la Renta Dries Van Noten

Céline

Marc Jacobs Oscar de la Renta

Chloé Jimmy Choo

Weekend brunch is a grand affair, and London’s beautiful people gather at Electric for eggs cooked any style. Fantasy hues are a must at this daytime spot.

miu miu

Chloé

Dolce & Gabbana Céline

A 106

The Wolseley is a city institution, and you haven’t lived until you’ve had afternoon tea at this glamorous classic. Chic flair with a dash of color is the way to go.

©Raya Farhat, Dries Van Noten

Fendi

Oscar de la Renta

Cartier

Jimmy Choo

New York’s Spice Market now has an outpost inside London’s W Hotel. Black with a flash of brilliance is the way to look ultrafab at this dinner hotspot.

Ronnie Scott’s has been staging live jazz performances since 1959. Wear hot pinks and yellows, impersonate a flapper and enjoy the show.

Jimmy Choo

Oscar de la Renta

Dsquared2 Dsquared2 Dsquared2

Prada

Stella McCartney

Oscar de la Renta

Jason Wu

Saint Laurent

Casadei

Jimmy Choo

Dsquared2

Chloé

Dries Van Noten

Oscar de la Renta

Chloé

107 A

A fashion _ hot stuff

Balenciaga

This Chinatown bar is almost impossible to find and even harder to get into. Wear shiny metallic hues and lots of bling to catch the bouncer’s attention and waltz in.

Céline

Giambattista Valli

Dior

Dior

Nancy Gonzalez

Balenciaga

Jimmy Choo

Dior Cartier Gucci Agent Provocateur

Gucci

Altuzarra

Stella McCartney

Saint Laurent

Casadei

Balenciaga

Stella McCartney

A 108

©Balenciaga, Dior, Raya Farhat

The only way to get into Annabel’s private club is to go with a member.

So wear discrete black, a tailored outfit and look mysterious.

Jimmy Choo

A誰shti, 71 El-Moutrane Street. Tel.: 01.991111 A誰shti Seaside, Jal el Dib. Tel.: 04.717716 LESILLA.COM

A fashion _ heartbreaker

Your one and only

©Bvlgari

To call Bvlgari’s Serpenti necklace rare is an understatement: there is just one Serpenti high jewelry necklace in the world. The diamond-incrusted, white gold piece is the epitome of luxury. Price available upon request.

For more info, contact Beirut’s Bvlgari boutique at tel. 01.333.109.

A 110

Fashion

Woman on a ledge Fabulously feline Glow in the dark

Woman on a ledge Photographers Petrovsky & Ramone Stylist Venus Waterman

She’s wearing a Bottega Veneta coat and Gucci dress

She’s wearing a Stella McCartney dress. Her earrings are by miu miu

This page She’s in a top and necklace, both by Dior Opposite page She’s in a miu miu top, Dries Van Noten pants, Hermès bracelet, Hermès earrings and Dior sunglasses. Her bag is by Prada

She’s wearing a Prada top and skirt. Her necklace, earrings, sandals and bag are all by miu miu

This page She’s in a miu miu top, Dolce & Gabbana pants and Dior sunglasses. Her bag is by Prada Opposite page She’s in a Prada top, Chloé pants and Pucci belt. Her bag is by Prada

She’s wearing a Bottega Veneta coat, Gucci dress and Van der Straeten earrings. Her bag is by Chloé

She’s wearing a Michael Kors bodysuit, Marni necklace and Casadei sandals. Her bag is by Prada

This page She’s wearing a Gucci dress, miu miu earrings and Casadei sandals Opposite page She’s wearing a Prada dress. Her earrings and bracelets are by Van der Straeten

She’s wearing a Gucci dress and Van der Straeten necklace and earrings. Available at Aïshti stores.

Hair and makeup Siddhartha Bekers Location Karim Bassil beach house, Fidar, Lebanon

Fabulously feline Photographer Alessio Bolzoni Stylist Amelianna Loiacono

This page She’s in a Roberto Cavalli blouse, Jo No Fui cape and Dolce & Gabbana pants. Her clutch is by Jimmy Choo Opposite page She’s wearing a Michael Kors blouse

Her top, pants and bag are all by Gucci

Her top, pants, coat and clutch are all by Maison Martin Margiela

Her blouse, pants, coat and shoes are all by CĂŠline

She’s wearing a top and skirt by Tibi

She’s wearing a Maison Martin Margiela dress and a Michael Kors necklace

She’s in a suit by Moschino. Her bag is by Marni

She’s wearing a Jo no Fui jacket, Jo no Fui skirt and Marni scarf. Her bag is

by Gucci

She’s wearing a Marni blouse and skirt. Her bag is by Moschino. Available at Aïshti stores.

Hair Simone Prusso Makeup Cosetta Giorgetti

She’s wearing a Versace dress

She’s in a Stella McCartney jacket, Dsquared2 top, Yves Solomon pants, Givenchy necklace, Balmain belt and Salvatore Ferragamo shoes

She’s wearing a Maison Martin Margiela jacket Her top, pants and shoes are all by CÊline

Her complete outfit is by Saint Laurent

She’s wearing a Prada cape, Dsquared2 top and miu miu skirt. Her clutch is by Pierre Hardy

She’s in a Fendi dress and Givenchy boots

Her top, shorts and jacket are all by Michael Kors Her shoes are by Giuseppe Zanotti Design

She’s in a Burberry Prorsum top and skirt. Her belt is by Balmain Hair Greg Everingham Makeup Tatsu Yamanaka

WWW.AISHTIBLOG.COM

WWW.AISHTIBLOG.COM

Foch Street 路 Aishti Downtown 路 Aishti Seaside Aizone ABC 路 Aizone Intercontinental Mzaar 路 Aizone Citymall

diesel.com

A beauty _ makeup

Off the runway

By Charlotte Colquhoun

To take Burberry from a slightly dubious fashion position to internationally covetable brand, in the space of just over 10 years, is no mean feat. Christopher Bailey isn’t just a designer, but a branding visionary, and as such perhaps it was only inevitable that we should anticipate a beauty offering would saunter along eventually.

Since its launch, Burberry Beauty has excelled in exactly the field one would expect from a heritage house, which relies heavily on a classic camel coat for their identity. Natural beauty and neutral shades have been the bywords for the collection.

At the time, Bailey commented: “I think it’s really true to Burberry’s spirit. It’s very much abut the philosophy of a trench coat: it’s for all different skin types and for all different types of lifestyles.”

Despite a punchy color and textural palette on its spring/summer 2013 runway, which included translucent tangerine, ruched pink satin and shimmering silver leather, the beauty look remained true to form with a bold lip on an otherwise nude visage. Burberry

A 156

Beauty consultant Wendy Rowe explains that the red lip is “quite exciting… definitely something different” for Burberry. “It’s hard to make a red lip modern as it’s so easily retro, which is why we kept the rest of the look quite simple.” What made this so British was the juxtaposition of the attention-seeking lip with the (seemingly) devil-may-care disregard shown to the rest of the face.

To truly recreate the runway look one must take a tip from Rowe’s book – apply the eyes before the skin. Sheer Eye Shadow in Gold Trench and Eye Definer in Golden Brown made for a most subtly contoured eye line, with not a dash of mascara. Dewy skin with a youthful air is essential to ensure the red lip isn’t aging; Burberry Sheer Foundation was layered with Sheer Concealer, Sheer Powder and Light Glow in Earthy Blush. With silicones for a smooth, weightless application and wild rose to moisturize, the blush is designed to achieve a natural radiance. And finally, those lips: Lip Velvet in Siren Red flushed the pout, while Lip Definer in Brick Red produced a precision line.

©Burberry Beauty

What does Burberry have in store for spring?

nancygonzalez.com

A誰shti, Downtown Beirut 01. 99 11 11

A beauty _ skincare

Beauty and the Brits

By Charlotte Colquhoun

Aromatherapy Associates That aromatherapy has the power to uplift, revive and renew is a fundamental tenet of this business. Blended essential oils aim to enhance physical, mental and emotional well-being with products that are effective as well as luxurious. A variety pack equivalent, the perfect pick for the indecisive, offers the opportunity to sample and be seduced by Aromatherapy Associates’ potent potions.

Visit www.aromatherapyassociates.com Sarah Chapman As one of London’s most esteemed facialists, with an emphasis on anti-aging expertise, Sarah Chapman demands attention. Her personal quest for a line-smoothing eye serum led to the creation of the peptidepacked Eye Recovery, in which hyaluronic filling spheres and optical diffusers instantly plump contours, while antioxidants and

A 158

peptides nourish the delicate under-eye skin.

Visit www.sarahchapman.net Cowshed Conceived to deliver holistic treatments at country spa-hotel Babington House, this collection rejects (quite rightly) all parabens, petrochemicals, sulphates and artificial colors, and abhors animal testing. That their offerings smell so heavenly is testament to the exclusion of artificial fragrances and a reliance on organic plant extracts and essential oils. Designed to remove makeup and environmental impurities while toning the skin, the Lavender Gentle Cleanser is a highlight of their skincare stable. Keep an eye out for the cheekily named bath concoctions, including soothing Lazy Cow, uplifting Grumpy Cow and balancing Moody Cow. Visit www.cowshedonline.com Jo Malone Best known for its sumptuously scented candles, this Brit brand also boasts some seriously well-respected skincare. In chic monochrome packaging, the Vitamin E range has long been an insider’s favorite, with the Lip Conditioner one of the top products in its field. An SPF-loaded moisturizer enables the skincare range to transition from night to day.

Visit www.jomalone.co.uk

©Aromatherapy Associates, Sarah Chapman, Cowshed, Jo Malone

Give yourself a spring tune-up with a UK-invented skincare regimen

Believe it or not, a lot can be deduced about the climate and even the society of a country from their home-grown beauty brands. In the United Kingdom, perhaps due to the damp cold and persistent drizzle, nurturing balms and tonic are highly valued, while the quirky British sense of humor creeps in when you least expect it.

AVAILABLE AT AÏSHTI STORES TEL. +961 1 99 11 11

A beauty _ vajacial

Skincare down there

By Katherine Siciliano Grigelis

It’s time for a spring tuneup. But not for you. For your vagina. Stript Wax Bar offers this skincare treatment for the vagina, aptly named Vajacial.

With five locations in Northern California and one in Los Angeles, Stript is now the destination of choice for West Coast women looking to freshen up their most private parts.

The treatment starts off with the usual Brazilian, for which the salon uses a special hard wax that’s particularly gentle on the skin. You then move on to the Vajacial, which begins with an antibacterial, tea treerich cleansing designed for the delicate vaginal skin. After the antibacterial cleansing, and a few gentle swipes of soft cotton pads, a fresh papaya enzyme mask is applied with a fan brush and left to sit for several minutes. This mask has a slight tingle to it, as

A 160

the enzymes work to remove scaly and dead skin, while unveiling a fresh, beautiful and soft layer of new skin.

After the mask has been removed, a bleaching cream made of natural lemon and hydrogen peroxide is slathered onto the delicate area, to whiten and brighten anywhere that may have been darkened by ingrown hairs. A good rinse is followed by an application of a pure vitamin E and rose essential oil blend, providing a silken finish and enveloping your vagina with a clean, appealing scent.

The Vajacial is doctor recommended for its antibacterial properties and for its ability to minimize and prevent ingrown hairs, and it’s guaranteed to leave your nether region sparkling and as bright as a blooming rose.

©Images shutterstock.com

Have you ever had a vagina treatment?

ABC DBAYÉ MALL , LEVEL 1, LEBANON T. + 961 4 416000 E X T. 3016 AGENTPROVOCATEU R .COM

A beauty _ must-haves

Softness and light

1. Dior Dior Addict Lip Glow Color Revival Gloss, Clear

Moschino’s spring look brightens up your entire face

1.

3.

2.

2. Chanel Ombre Essentielle Soft Touch Eye Shadow No. 60, Ivory 3. Dior Chérie Bow Edition Glowing Color Powder Blush No. 659, Tender Coral 4. Estée Lauder Invisible Fluid Makeup Natural Foundation No. 132, For All Skin Types

4.

5. Bobbi Brown Natural Brow Shaper & Hair Touch Up, Eyebrow Mascara No. 3, Mahogany 6.

6. Saint Laurent Matt Touch No. 2, Compact Foundation with SPF 20

7.

5.

8. Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Eyeliner No. 87, Silver Light

8.

A 162

9.

9. Lancôme Hypnôse Star Ultra-glam Mascara No.1, Black

©Raya Farhat, Moschino

7. Tom Ford Lip Color No. 9, True Coral

7 For All Mankind store, Beirut Souks, Souk El Tawileh Also available at all A誰zone stores in Beirut, Dubai, Amman

A Beautiful Odyssey by James Franc The fate of two lovers is in your hands at Facebook.com/7forallmankindEU

LIB_A MAG_230x300_EMEAw_apr.indd 1

05/03/13 14:46

A celebrity _ interior designer

First lady of interiors

By Brent Gregston

Kelly Hoppen is a superstar in the world of interior design, as much a celebrity as some of the rich and famous people for whom she creates homes.

Born in South Africa, Hoppen grew up in London where she dropped out of school and went into business for herself at the age of 17, powering her way to the top and never looking back.

She has created her own brand of furniture, lighting, carpets and even paint. She has exercised her design prowess on yachts, hotels and the first-class cabins of British Airways.

Hoppen jet-sets from one continent to the next, visiting her growing chain of concept stores, publishes best-selling books and runs her own Kelly Hoppen Design School. For her TV show, Superior Interiors, she takes on the badly designed rooms of UK families and, like a fairy godmother, transforms them into luxury homes.

She is the proud mother of cookbook author Natasha Hoppen, and the stepmother of popular actress Sienna Miller and her sister Savannah, a fashion designer.

Recently, A magazine caught up with Hoppen at Maison & Objet in Paris, where she unpacked

A 164

her bags for a couple of days before heading for China.

“The home is a theater,” said Hoppen. “You are creating your life there. My whole ethos on design is very much based on how you feel in a home, not just on what it looks like. People are spending more time at home, and they’re recreating their homes over and over again. We human beings get bored very quickly. So I’ve created a style that is easy for people to move with and change.”

wears her nicknames, “Queen of Cream” and “Queen of Taupe,” saying she will not rest until the world is covered in the stuff. “I am absolutely, 100 percent, a true believer in neutral palettes, certainly in the bedroom and where you live. Neutral colors are much easier to live in. For example, a smaller room painted in a neutral shade will appear a lot bigger than a dark-walled room. You can change things in them. Subtlety and ease, that’s my style.”

Hoppen’s signature look is one of neutral tones. She proudly

Hoppen’s first book was East Meets West, and her style is

©Kelly Hoppen

Superstar designer Kelly Hoppen gets personal with A magazine

often described in terms of “yin and yang,” as a blend of East and West. She has been phenomenally successful in China and spends more and more of her time there. “I love the sensibility of my Chinese customers. They embrace what I do. When I get off an airplane, there are 500 people waiting at the airport to greet me. It’s beyond extraordinary.” She also likes Beirut, “We have a big store in Sin el Fil that is doing really well. I love Beirut. It’s the most exciting, fantastic place.”

Hoppen is an MBE (Member of the Order of the British Empire), an ambassador for Prince Charles’ youth charity and for the GREAT Britain campaign that promotes the United Kingdom abroad. She

says it’s a great time to be British.

“Britain is a hub of fashion and interior design and great artists and sculptors and food.”

Yes, food. Hoppen’s daughter, Natasha, is a chef and author of a best-selling cookbook, Honestly Healthy. “She’s creating a new vegetarian, alkaline lifestyle.

Young people like her are coming into their own in Britain. They believe in what they’re doing.”

And what comes next for Hoppen?

Is she, in the midst of her frenzied multi-tasking, still looking for new challenges as a designer?

“Yes,” she said. “There is one last thing I want to do. I want to do a film set. And I will. Whatever I set out to do, I achieve.”

165 A

A celebrity _ director

Scraps of life

By Kristin Julie Viola

A 166

Danny Safady is a Syrian director who’s making a name for himself in Hollywood. After a stint in modeling, he went on to shoot music videos and then dazzled Tinseltown with his directing debut in Scraps.

A magazine caught up with Safady to discuss his heritage, his first big break and his current screenplay.

Q Tell us more about your family’s background.

A Both my parents were born in Syria. My father immigrated to the United States when he was 20 years old. He is from the Golan Heights region of Syria, which is now part of Israel. My father is an honest,

hardworking traditional Arab businessman. He owns several nightclubs in the town I grew up in. My mother is from a small Syrian town near the Lebanese-Israeli border. I grew up on my mom’s delicious Arab cooking, and I could probably eat her tabbouleh every day for the rest of my life. Currently, my parents and two younger sisters reside in a small town near Austin, Texas.

Q What do you consider to be your big break?

A My first big break came when I directed a music video for recording artist Miss Issa.

The track was created by well-known record producer

Marc “MK” Kinchen who’s worked with the likes of Will Smith, Pitbull and Skakira.

The video was well received and played on multiple major music channels. It was a pivotal experience in boosting my filmmaking IQ, as well as introducing me to so many talented crew members that I still work closely with today.

Q What was it about the script for Scraps that appealed to you?

A Our hero Eva. She’s an outsider, an underdog who’s shunned and misunderstood. I relate to stories like this given the complexities of my own life experiences, from bi-cultural intricacies to my freespirited way of life.

©Danny Safady

Syrian-born director Danny Safady is making waves with his debut feature

Q Did you expect Scraps to receive the critical acclaim that it has?

A I was confident that we would be able to create an excellent film, because of our talented and hard-working team and compelling story. When I was looking for an editor, I looked at the list of short films that were nominated for Oscars, and I went down the list to find mine. The first one I called I was fortunate enough to get to take on this project. We received invitations from multiple prestigious festivals, including, Heartland, Sedona and St. Louis.

I am also very happy that we ended up securing a distribution deal for Scraps.

Q Do you have any upcoming projects you can share with us?

A I am currently writing a screenplay that follows an imaginative Arab-American boy through his journey leaving the United States and moving to Syria when his family endures financial hardship.

The family’s move coincides with the 1967 war in the Golan Heights, and the experiences he endures dramatically alters the boy’s life. It’s loosely based on my life and the experiences I’ve had visiting family in Syria and the Golan Heights. I don’t think that there have been enough films that authentically explore this important region of the world.

This page Film stills from Scraps Opposite page Danny Safady at work

167 A

ŠTony Elieh, Hassan Haidar

A celebrity _ photographer

A 168

Clicking away

By May Farah

Tony Elieh easily moves between music and photography

Tony Elieh is still getting used to calling himself a photographer, although looking at the images he has produced in the few years since he first picked up a camera – images that fuse reality and fiction, and that transcend language and culture – it seems that he will quickly have to adapt to the title. The hesitation is the potential result of photography not being Elieh’s first creative calling. Over the years, however, it has become the focus of his attention, both professionally and artistically.

About five years ago, in between recording and touring with his band, Scrambled Eggs, Elieh found he had much time on his hands.

So, he picked up a camera and began shooting away, looking online and to friends to help hone his technique. “It began as a hobby, in between music gigs and recording,” Elieh says. “I found myself with lots of time, so I started taking photos and learned from trial and error. I didn’t think of it as a potential career, so I didn’t worry too much about learning slowly and from my mistakes.”

Self-teaching is not new to Elieh. It was the same process with music. At 16, he taught himself to play the base, eventually quitting his job as a purchasing agent – a position he took after graduating with a business degree – to devote himself entirely to music.

Although Scrambled Eggs, the band he helped form, is still together A 169

A celebrity _ photographer

and still recording, it is photography that Elieh is now steadily mastering.

As his technique improved, Elieh began to post some of his photos online. The stream of positive feedback eventually led to a number of jobs, mostly of food and architecture to start, and then eventually he expanded to other subjects, including fashion and portraits. In fact, Elieh finds such passion in taking photos, he’s open to virtually any kind of assignment. But there are exceptions. “I don’t really like photographing weddings or big events,” he says, “so I tend to shy away from those jobs. But everything else I find fascinating and really enjoy.”

With a growing client list, including A magazine and L’Officiel-Levant, Elieh is enjoying the challenge of expanding his photography portfolio and has even begun to think of exhibiting his work. “I’m looking to grow as a photographer,” he says. “And that means always learning, always updating, always developing my craft.”

A 170

©Tony Elieh

For now, the 34-year-old is reluctant to place himself in any definite label of photography; he’s still energized about any subject. But his lack of formal training doesn’t translate into any form of smugness. Elieh is well aware that the art of photography relies both on “a good eye” and technique. “Good photography is about composition,” he says, “and that comes from experience with both. With training and time, you develop a better eye and the necessary technique.”

CAMPER BEIRUT SOUKS Souk El Tawileh Street, Beirut central district. T 01 99 11 11, ext 568

A celebrity _ models

The Brits are coming

By Tala Habbal

Meet the girls making model waves from New York to Milan

Jourdan Dunn Making her runway debut in New York in 2007, 22-year-old Jourdan Dunn made fashion headlines in 2008 when she became the first black model since Naomi Campbell to walk a Prada runway in over a decade.

Dunn has since walked for a slew of high-profile designers, from Burberry to Saint Laurent, and was one of the faces of Burberry’s illustrious 2012 beauty campaign, alongside fellow Brit models Cara Delevingne and Edie Campbell.

Marni

A 172

Charlotte Wiggens Signed by a major agency only two short years ago, 18-yearold Charlotte Wiggens started her modeling career off on a high note by landing Burberry Prorsum and Beauty ad campaigns. She made her runway debut in London walking for Burberry, Matthew Williamson and Paul Smith, to name a few, and most recently opened and closed Burberry’s fall/winter 2013-14 show.

©Burberry, Paper, Saint Laurent, Topshop

Edie Campbell Shot by Mario Testino alongside Kate Moss for a Burberry campaign in 2009, young Edie Campbell has walked the runway for everyone from Burberry to Chanel and even closed the French house’s spring/summer 2012 couture show as the “bride” – one of the modeling industry’s ultimate accolades. The leggy Brit was one of the prominent faces in the 2012 Burberry Beauty ad campaign and currently stars in both Saint Laurent and Burberry’s spring/summer 2013 ad campaigns.

Lara Mullen Dubbed “Dolce’s girl” after being handpicked by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana to walk the label’s couture debut collection in 2012, young beauty Lara Mullen has compiled quite an impressive portfolio. She’s modeled for the likes of Prada, Fendi, Louis Vuitton and Christopher Kane since being discovered a year ago, two weeks before New York Fashion Week.

Rosie Tapner Although relatively new on the modeling circuit, 15-yearold Brit model Rosie Tapner is already turning industry heads after appearing in Balenciaga’s fall and spring 2012 ad campaigns. The striking young model is also one of Chloé’s newest faces, starring in the French brand’s spring/summer 2013 ad campaign.

Cara Delevingne Discovered in 2009 by the same scout responsible for putting Kate Moss on the map, 20-yearold British supermodel Cara Delevingne has been ruling the catwalks since walking for Burberry in 2011 and becoming the face of the Burberry Beauty campaign in 2012. The quirky Delevigne recently walked in an astounding 13 shows at New York Fashion Week and is also currently the face of Zara as well as Chanel’s resort 2013 campaign.

Sam Rollinson English spitfire Sam Rollinson is the latest British model to catch the eye of almost every designer, photographer and editor in the industry. Rollinson recently walked for Alexander Wang, Marc Jacobs and Jason Wu during New York Fashion Week and is also one of the newest faces in Balenciaga’s spring/ summer 2013 ad campaign.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley Having initially started her career as a Victoria’s Secret model, the quintessentially English Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley rose to fame in 2008 when she was appointed by Christopher Bailey as the gorgeous face of Burberry’s fall/winter campaign. She has since walked for the likes of Prada and Giles Deacon, and has most recently gone back to her English roots, with a racy lingerie ad campaign for British retailer Marks & Spencer.

173 A

A誰shti Seaside Bldg., Jal el Dib, Lebanon TEL . +961.4.717 716 FAX +961.4.717 716 www.aishti.com

A design _ museum

A broad spectrum

ŠPaul Clemence

By Robert Landon

A 176

Take a look at Zaha Hadid’s new Michigan museum

As you approach Zaha Hadid’s new Eli and Edythe Broad Museum in East Lansing, Michigan, it is the complex, light-catching carapace that first reels in the eye – a fine shock after the brick, neo-Gothic buildings that define the rest of the Michigan State University campus. Draw closer and its undulating fins, opening and closing in rhythmic asymmetries, begin to seduce the mind. In some places scrunched up into sharp angles and in others allowed to breathe for longer stretches across the low-slung façade, the fins seem to be the expression of some higher, grid-bending equation.

In a half-conscious attempt to solve the math, you begin to circle the building. At certain points, the fins spread wide enough for generous glimpses inside, but as you keep moving, the inner secrets vanish again behind the metal lattice. In the same way, the relentlessly kinetic carapace tantalizes with, but ultimately eludes, any logical or definitive summing up. What is certain, though, is that, by the time you’ve come full circle, you’ll have grown quite curious to see what is going on inside.

Ironically, all that self-conscious drama drops away as you walk into the museum’s main hall. Narrow and unadorned, it is formed of the humblest of geometries: a single, straight line – in this case, the shortest distance between two entrances at either end of the building. The hall’s plainness serves as a kind of mental palate cleanser before you enter the galleries that lead off it. To see the good stuff, you have to nose your way into the building’s twists and crannies. And there are plenty of them. Given the small footprint of the two-

A 177

A design _ museum

story building, Hadid says she decided to use trapezoidal shapes to “explode the site and stretch the space in a hidden corner of the campus. Rather than solemnity, silence and reverence, we wanted to create a sense of dynamism.”

Hadid arrived late to the museum’s opening ceremonies, though she had a good excuse: she’d been summoned by Buckingham Palace for her investiture into the Order of the British Empire. As a result, we members of the press had gotten to see the museum before Dame Hadid herself.

A 178

©Paul Clemence

And yet all those attention-grabbing forms do not distract from the art itself. Hadid has managed to carve out plenty of blankness for the art to occupy. In fact, I found the sharp shapes actually loosened the mind’s soil enough to take in the works in a more direct way. Some critics will no doubt dismiss the whole project as look-at-me starchitecture. And they are not wrong, exactly. But grabbing attention is in fact central to the architectural program itself, as Eli Broad told us on the museum’s opening day. “We definitely wanted something that was iconic,” said Broad, a major Los Angelesbased philanthropist and art collector who funded the lion’s share of the new museum.

“We wanted to stretch the imagination of the university and the surrounding community – something that would attract people from around the world.”

A.D. nAtAliA corbettA / fotogrAfiA MArio ciAMPi

“made in italy ”

Aïshti seAside Bldg., JAl el diB, leBAnon tel. +961.4.717 716 FAX +961.4.717 716 www.aishti.com

LIB_A_MAG_EG_COMP_S.indd 1

F L E X F O R M SPA indUstRiA PeR l’ARRedAMento 20821 MedA (MB) i tA l i A ViA einAUdi 23.25

tel. 0362 3991 FA X 0 3 6 2 3 9 9 22 8 w w w. f l e x f o r m . i t EVERGREEN Antonio citterio

20/12/12 15.59

A design _ home accessories

Redesigning the past

By Pip Usher

Benedicte de Vanssay de Blavous Moubarak, a petite blonde with an understated French accent, doesn’t believe in junk. She salvages delicate wrought iron railings, colorful floor tiles and sophisticated Art Deco balustrades from Lebanon’s scrap yards and then transforms her finds into unique pieces of furniture. Her small workshop in Geitawi, tucked between a construction site and a rickety apartment block, is bursting with these historical treasures, in the shape of an elegant candelabra or angular coffee table. There is even an intricately perforated copper bowl that hangs as an unusual wall lamp, casting dotted gleams of light around the room.

This concept of finding beauty in brokenness resonates throughout Moubarak’s home furnishings business, 2b design, and the company’s main line, Beyt. Founded as a social enterprise, it regenerates Lebanon’s neglected architectural legacy while teaching craft skills to local workers from broken backgrounds. Ambitiously seeking

A 180

to renovate disappearing heritage, provide dignified employment for the marginalized and handicapped, and promote reconciliation between sectarian groups, this business model has proved so successful that the Harvard Business Review profiled it.

Moubarak describes herself as a “normal person with abnormal dreams.” She was raised in France by an entrepreneurial father and intellectual mother, who instilled a belief in innovation that would prove influential throughout her life. She met Raja, her halfLebanese, half-French husband in Paris, and the two moved to Beirut in 2003. Settling into a new culture, Moubarak was shocked by the indifference toward the city’s unique architecture, inspired by Ottoman and Venetian influences. She was also scandalized by the disdain shown toward handicapped people in the community, who were hidden away by their families “as if they didn’t exist.” And, suddenly, it clicked. The artistic background, the fascination with redemptive social causes, a home in the region: it all

©2b design

2b design transforms remnants from Lebanon’s ancient homes into glorious furniture

melded together into a “vision of broken people reconstructing their dignity by recreating beauty from broken items.”

Since 2b design was created, Moubarak’s influence throughout Lebanon has been substantial. Launching a one-woman mission to save Lebanon’s disappearing heritage from the curse of ubiquitous tower blocks and gray concrete, Moubarak has educated junkyard operators on the cultural value of scrap pieces otherwise destined to be melted down into car parts and questioned the price that Lebanon is paying for rapid real estate development.

In the process, she revolutionized the way that an entire nation views its “junk,” with Lebanese clients now accounting for 30 percent of her customer base.

All of 2b design’s forge work is handled by a team of blacksmiths at arcenciel, an NGO created during the Lebanese war to help a disenfranchised population of 100,000 handicapped citizens gain employment, a

small wage and access to healthcare and counseling services. Omar, 2b design’s head blacksmith, embodies the social enterprise’s success: paralyzed during a botched surgery at the age of 18, he now creates unique pieces of art.

Now Moubarak has taken on America. A recent move to Cambridge, near Boston, resulted in a new workshop and showroom.

A partnership has formed already with a US organization that teaches practical skills to homeless women. With the enormity of the United States to leverage, Moubarak hopes to amplify her success on an international scale, opening additional workshops in Egypt and Haiti.

Moubarak acknowledges the “deep-seated misconceptions of Lebanon” that pervade Western media, but vows that these portrayals of a war-torn, highly hedonistic nation can only be changed by “examples of real people doing real work that others can relate to and sympathize with.”

181 A

A design _ trend

In black and white

By Marie Le Fort

While fashion runways explode with color, the design world opts for a sober palette Stripe it away (left)

A touch of Mesopotamia (left)

Lebanon’s Carwan design gallery commission local and international talents to revisit ancient crafts with a contemporary edge.

To that end, Oeuffice – founded by Nicolas Bellavance-Lecompte and Jakub Zak – designed the Ziggurat Containers, a limited edition of wood-inlaid boxes. Inspired by the Islamic and Persian muqarnas (a type of ornamentation), the containers can be stacked together to form an abstract tower.

Visit www.carwangallery.com A 182

Tile inspiration (above)

Inspired by Portugal’s magnificent azulejos (tin-glazed ceramic tiles), graphic designer Emmanuel Bossuet imagined black-andwhite ceramic tiles that beautifully blend ornamentation and strict geometry. Named after the decadent 20th-century Bussaco palace hidden in a millennial forest in Luso, this design can be applied onto walls, coffee tables and consoles.

Visit www.emmanuelbossuet.com/bussaco

©Emmanuel Bossuet, Carwan, Sol LeWitt, Maharam, Minakani Lab, Wogg

Produced by Swiss company Wogg according to a design by Trix and Robert Haussmann from 1988, the Stripe sideboard is named after the striped pattern that flows across it like a drape or zebra skin. Playing on optical and kinetic illusions alike, the stripes add depth and movement to an otherwise simple, oblong cabinet.

Visit www.wogg.ch

Zebra from the plains (left)

Charley Harper (1922-2007) was an acclaimed American illustrator known for his highly stylized depictions of wildlife. Maharam textile and design firm took Harper’s “Serengeti Spaghetti,” created by the artist in 1979 and depicting the zebras’ great annual migration on the Tanzanian plains, and transformed it into a graphic wall covering.

Visit www.maharam.com

Geometry on the wall (right)

The 13,000-square-foot gallery of Centre Pompidou-Metz, in France’s Lorraine region, welcomes a unique retrospective of American conceptual artist Sol LeWitt’s wall drawings on a scale never seen before in Europe.

Chosen from the 1,200 wall drawings that LeWitt created between 1968 and 2007, the selected 33 wall drawings reflect the remarkable diversity of his work. The show runs until July 29.

Visit www.centrepompidou-metz.fr/en

Clouds across the room (left)

Founded by French duo Cécile Figuette and Frédéric Bonnin, Minakani Lab creates exceptional wall coverings inspired by childhood fairy tales. Wonderfully graphic, their pointillist Cloudy motifs add a completely new dimension to a room, while their symmetrical, crosshatched Copenhague wall covering blurs the border between ceiling and wall.

Visit www.minakanilab.com

183 A

A design _ update

Spring spirit of design Verreum (left)

New products for a new season

Bookles (left)

Imagined by Scottish hightech designer Neil Poulton, silversmith Christofle’s Bookles are a series of sculptural bookmarks and interleafs that curve, mimicking paperclips.

Following perfect geometric lines, Bookles add a touch of design elegance to files, financial presentations and books.

Visit www.christofle.com

A 184

Table in Wonderland (above)

Invented by Fabrica designers Charlotte Juillard and David Raffoul, Table in Wonderland – a system of store display fittings to showcase apparel and accessories – was especially created for Miami’s remodeled United Colors of Benetton flagship store, which opened in December. Echoing the beachside city’s Art Deco pastel-colored buildings, the modular system showcases multicolored geometries and exudes a modernist feel.

Visit www.charlottejuillard.com

©Christofle, Christophe Delcourt, Benjamin Hubert, Charlotte Juillard, PCM Design, Verreum

Young Czech design manufacturer Verreum wants to revive traditional glassmaking craftsmanship by combining it with contemporary silvering techniques, thus creating a completely new design language.

To that end Verreum has joined forces with acclaimed Turkish brand Gaia & Gino. The two companies plan to start launching new products in the near future.

Visit www.verreum.com

Tacubaya (right)

Paying tribute to late Mexican architect Luis Barragán, interior designer and architect Christophe Delcourt’s latest Tacubaya collection mixes vibrant colors and rigorous lines, brass surfaces and modern volumes. The line explores the interplay between shadow and light through the usage of soft, smoky leather and glossy, lacquered wood.

Visit www.christophedelcourt.com

Reverse Volumes (left)

Originally designed by Viennese duo mischer’traxler in 2010, Reverse Volumes recently went from prototype to limited production thanks to Madridbased firm PCM Design. Unveiled at Maison & Objet, the collection includes a series of colorful resin bowls, each one shaped by capturing the imprint of a fruit or vegetable.

Visit www.pcmdesign.es/index. php?/projects/reversedvolumes

Container (right)

A collaboration between British designer Benjamin Hubert and French furniture manufacturer Ligne Roset, the Container lamp utilizes ceramic to both contain electronic lighting components and produce a soft, glowing light using the interior glazed surface. The object is made of two large ceramic components.

Functional, simple and efficient.

Visit www.benjaminhubert.co.uk

185 A

A high art _ installations

Vertiginous horizon

ŠPaul Clemence

By Robert Landon

A 186

Antony Gormley’s installations are intriguing the masses

From Phoenician caryatids to Richard Serra’s assemblies, architecture and sculpture share a single, twined history.

Now, British artist Antony Gormley – winner of the 1994 Turner Prize – has created a series of urban installations that throw an unnerving and beautiful light on a long and complicated relationship.

Called “Event Horizon,” the series migrated from London (2007) to Manhattan (2010) and most recently to Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo (20122013). Along the way, it has stunned tens of thousands of city dwellers into more acute and conscious contact with their built environments. “‘Event Horizon’ hopes to activate the skyline in order to encourage people to look around,” Gormley writes. “In 187 A

A high art _ installations

He accomplishes this feat by embedding dozens of human forms – anatomically accurate casts of his own body – often in high, and highly unlikely, perches within a dense urban environment. In Rio, where I caught up with the work, they loomed between Baroque bell towers and peered precariously over the sheer faces of modernist office towers.

Even if you’ve already seen photos of Gormley’s work, the artist still manages to catch you off guard when you glimpse one of his precariously A 188

placed figures. For a second, you wonder if you’re actually seeing someone up there on that narrow precipice. Or was it just a flicker of your own imagination? Even after you confirm the figure’s “reality,” you keep wondering, for at least another brief second, if it is in fact a live human being. Of course, it’s not, but the sensation of that strange presence retains what I can only describe as nerve-wracking weight in your mind.

But this perplexity is only the beginning. Now, as you begin to reflect more consciously, you wonder what that strange figure is supposed to represent.

Is he guarding or infiltrating, a soldier or a spy? Has he been drawn there by raw curiosity, or is he a forlorn creature ready

to jump? And how did Gormley get him into that precarious position in the first place? Even more incredible, how did he get all the necessary authorities to approve such a scheme?

In short, your mind goes a little haywire as this quick succession of unanswerable questions induces a kind of mental vertigo, which of course makes you identify all the more with the figure up in that precarious aery. In fact, as you stop and stare at him amid the relentless activity of the city, the two of you have, in that moment, become kinds of doppelgangers.

And suddenly you remember how, whether awake or asleep, you too have dreamed yourself into those inaccessible places that loom above us in our everyday rounds.

©Paul Clemence

this process of looking and finding, or looking and seeking, one perhaps re-assesses one’s own position in the world and becomes aware of one’s status of embedment.”

A high art _ retrospective

The modern way

By Grace Banks

Beirut’s first abstract artist Saloua Raouda Choucair achieves newfound fame The careers of major female artists have been on the mind of London’s Tate Modern gallery a fair amount lately. Summer 2012’s Yayoi Kusama show brought the polka dots and collage of a true maverick’s life, and in her first ever international exhibit, Lebanese artist Saloua Raouda Choucair is also getting the Tate Modern retrospective treatment. Bringing 120 pieces of the artist’s work to Britain, the Tate shines a light on Choucair’s great influence on abstract art, with many never-before-seen pieces focusing on her pioneering way with sculpture and oils from the ‘30s to the ‘60s.

Choucair’s worldview is one that marries indigenous culture with modern consumer society. The artist’s fusion between old and new brought her to the forefront of the modernist movement in the ‘40s, where she made great waves with her Middle Eastern take on the movement. Using wood, cement and metal, she reA 190

©Saloua Raouda Choucair Foundation

Choucair is one of modernism’s best-kept secrets. Greatly influenced by Arabic poetry, mathematics and science, she conceptualized these themes, applying them to sculpture and wood work. In her paintings, she evokes the curved lines of traditional Islamic art to create a graphic tessellated effect, continually shifting between abstract representations of the world around her and modernist renderings of the self.

imagined the Arabic poem in the sculptures “Poem” and “Poem Wall.” Through stacked layers representing a love for tradition and stanzaic Arabic poetry, each sculpture is given a sense of pace and story.

Born in Beirut in 1916, Choucair trained at the American University of Beirut and the École Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Following a series of apprenticeships with Moustafa Farroukh and Omar Onsi, she exhibited for the first time at the Arab Cultural Gallery in Beirut, a show that gained her acknowledgment as the Middle East’s first abstract painter.

The London retrospective pays particular attention to her use of autobiography in her early work with oils. Pictures such as “Self Portrait” and “Paris-Beirut” are shown together here for the first

time. Characterized through the artist’s introspective and intimate look into the subject, the motifs of these paintings put Choucair on par with literary modernist Virginia Woolf. Ideas of looking into the self as a form of art were intrinsic to feminist modernism. Whether Choucair makes a feminist statement is unclear, but it is these characteristics that pushed her forward into the global modernist sphere.

Tate Modern’s show nods to the newfound global relevance of the 97-year-old artist and reestablishes Choucair’s work as modern and relevant.

The Saloua Raouda Choucair retrospective is on view from April 17-October 20 at the Tate Modern, Bankside, London SW1, tel. 44.20.7887.8888, tate.org.uk 191 A

A high art _ interview

Pipeline dream

By John Burns

ŠDouglas Friedman, Rayyane Tabet

Rayyane Tabet revives Lebanese history to create sculptural installations

A 192

It’s early February, and through the windows of Rayyane Tabet’s Karantina studio, dusk settles on the skyline of Beirut, yellow lights tracing the contours of the hills. The room is filled with boxes of small lead balls; objects that tell another story, one that won Tabet the Abraaj Art Prize earlier this year.

In the tradition of storytelling that is so central to his sculptural installations, Tabet recounts the inspiration behind his first solo exhibition, “The Shortest Distance Between Two Points,” showing at Beirut’s Sfeir-Semler Gallery from April 4 to July 20.

“All of the projects I do happen as accidents. In 2007 I was driving south to swim in Tyre and at that time the main highway was bombed out because of the war, so I had to take a detour.

On one of the back roads south of Sidon, I saw these strange spherical containers in the landscape. I asked a nearby shepherd what they were. He told me they were left by Tapline.”

Following this line of inquiry back to Beirut, Tabet discovered the history of the TransArabian Pipeline Company, known as Tapline, a defunct American oil firm that built one of the world’s longest pipelines in the ‘50s.

His exhibition probes into the social and political transformations that were prompted by this 750-mile pipeline, which pumped oil from Saudi Arabian ports directly to South Lebanon, through what would soon become a highly troubled region, before the pipe’s sabotage in the ‘70s. As with many of his previous projects, shaped explicitly from memories, dreams and stories, it was Tapline’s curiously melancholy narrative that intrigued the artist and triggered “The Shortest Distance Between Two Points.”

The exhibition features six sculptural installations, and Tabet explains that these are the graceful end products of his practice. “I was trained as an architect, not as an artist. One of the things I learned in architecture school is that form is not something that is applied to a place, but is actually something that is already inscribed in the sight itself. Your job is to break the form out of the place rather than to impose something on it. It becomes more like an idea of excavating; the form is already there, it’s how you uncover it.”

Uncovering Tapline’s story took equally artful measures. To gain access to Tapline’s 193 A

A high art _ interview

abandoned head office in Beirut, Tabet acquainted himself with a former Tapline employee (who still, decades on, dressed for work every morning and spent his days in the building’s cafÊ). It was here that he found the old photographs, mailroom tags, company letterheads, telexes, log books and architectural drawings that became the shapes, textures and forms he used to create his installations. For one of these, Tabet framed the blank pages of deteriorating company letterheads he found. For another, he created a scale drawing of the pipeline with more than 30 folding rulers, colored differently to symbolize the different countries that the pipeline passed through.

For yet another, Tabet arranged 40 steel rings in one long, single-file line.

ŠRayyane Tabet

In his work, Tabet restages the historical documents he has been collecting since that fateful day in 2007, to tell the story of Tapline, and of a bygone day.

A 194

Available in Aïshti Downtown, Aïshti Seaside, Aïshti Verdun, Aïzone ABC Ashrafieh, Aïzone City Mall, Aïzone Beirut Souks,Aïzone ABC Dbaye, +961.1.991111, Dubai, Mall of the Emirates +971.4.3479333, Dubai Mall +971.4.3306442, Mirdiff City Center +971.4.2843007, Jordan, City Mall +962 65815670, Kuwait, The Avenues Mall +965 22598016

A high art _ interview

Full English

By Grace Banks

He doesn’t care if it’s uncomfortable. He’ll sit with the model for hours if that’s what it takes, and always, always in silence. “I never have music on. I have no idea what I look for, but the photograph has to be personal. That is an absolute. Sometimes it doesn’t happen, and I have walked out of shoots before.” On the eve of the launch of his first major UK retrospective, “Woo!” which wrapped up at London’s Institute of Contemporary Arts in March, Juergen Teller is somewhat of a fashion recluse.

Unlike peers Rankin, Mert and Marcus and Mario Testino, Teller’s career is characterized by a bombastic subtlety.

Naked girls riding horses bareback are infused with innocence through wan expressions and makeup-free faces, the epic skills of Kurt Cobain given a tragic context through a once-in-a-lifetime candid intimacy.

In the same way that William Eggleston’s images captured not just the moment, but the life of the sitter, Teller’s photography tells a story: we don’t just love the dress the model wears, but wonder what her bedroom looks like, how she moves when the camera is off her and no one is watching.

It’s a closeness of subject that has defined

©Juergen Teller

Juergen Teller doesn’t just photograph, he feels

A 196

Teller’s work, and followed him into the new chapter of his career. Kittens playing on rolling country fields and landscapes of Somerset pastures mark a newfound taste for the homely and agricultural, but it is one that marries up with the photographer’s lifelong passion of keeping it real. “Since moving there, the English countryside has become very important to me. It really is. I’m such an unsociable person now. It’s all I see, it’s what’s close to me.”

This attitude is what made his 2009 portrait of Lily Cole lying naked in a lagoon positively fizz. “She’s a model that I have known for a long time and taking a picture of her is like taking a picture of myself.” Teller’s portrait of Vivienne Westwood resulted in a reveal that is close to unnerving in its intimacy. “I’d known Vivienne for two years, she came to my house and stripped for me. I was nervous, but it just happened, me and her. The Vivienne pictures mark the early days for me.”

This page Marc Jacobs shot in Paris in 2007 Opposite page Kurt Cobain photographed in Berlin in 1991

Those early days hold great significance to Teller. When he toured with Nirvana in the early ‘90s, they were just a group of guys from Washington. ‘We went for soundcheck and it was amazing. Kurt [Cobain] was very shy, he really was. The pictures I got are very organic.” It’s through these early images that Teller found his style. “My move is to stalk the sitter, I lurk then I get my picture.” That trademark shiftiness is one he now uses on commercial ventures with the likes of Marc Jacobs and Victoria Beckham. “The Victoria idea came out of nowhere. She loves fashion, so let’s put her in a bag.” Undoubtedly, there’s an element of mockery in this move, one that doesn’t shout volumes, but coolly alludes to something poignant. It’s what keeps Teller ahead of the game.

197 A

A high art _ profile

Mystical debris

By Shirine Saad

A massive Sphinx-like figure made of Styrofoam, clay, plastic, metal, paint, a rubber tire, wood and other detritus stood at the entrance of Huma Bhabha’s MoMA PS1 show, which wrapped up on April 1. It appeared to have emerged from the earth, a tortuous, rough creature attempting to reflect mankind. Fragile, threatening, a mystical totem, “Unnatural Histories” sat unglued on a wooden pedestal, as if it could have collapsed at any moment.

objects for her sculptures, which are all made of recycled industrial or organic materials. Inspired by ancient art, from Babylon to Egypt and Africa, she engages with history, war, the environment, eroticism and anthropomorphic representation. Other influences include Picasso, Giacometti, Daumier and German Neo-Expressionists, as well as the sci-fi dystopias of Philip K. Dick. Her intuitive sculptures come to life from all sides, often revealing animal bones, chicken wire, tiny illustrations or spines made of excruciatingly piled up plastic boxes.

In “Untitled, 2006,” the artist created a mass of black plastic from which emerge two clay hands and a tail-like trail. The figure prostrates in prayer, between life and death,

hidden from sight under the garbage bag, at once menacing and peaceful, its rugged hands holding the ground tightly. It could be an extraterrestrial creature or a human; it could be a burka-clad devout engaged in prayer; this beautiful, unsettling mystery is at the heart of Bhabha’s sculptures.

Bhabha’s shattered structures and threatening otherworldly creatures bring to mind the endless violence and destruction in the Middle East. As independent curator Bob Nickas told Art News: “She’s lived here a long time, but she’s from a place that’s in increasing turmoil. It’s not just Pakistan; it’s a certain part of the world, a certain reality.

That’s always been reflected in her work.

She’s really on the cusp of this politicalpoetical object.”

©Huma Bhaba

That was Huma Bhabha’s first New York solo museum show. Born in Karachi, the artist attended the Rhode Island School of Design and Columbia University’s MFA program and now works in her Poughkeepsie house, where she scavenges the surrounding fields to gather found

Huma Bhaba’s organic sculptures are beautifully surreal

A 198

199 A

A high art _ gallery

space founded in 2006 by cousins Hisham and Khaled Samawi.

Ayyam galleries are distinctive in their nurturing of artistic talent, and it’s no surprise that Azzam is one of the artists they back. “Being in Dubai in 2006, we saw the birth of modern Middle Eastern art,” says Hisham Samawi. Their first space was in Syria (“There was literally no contemporary art market there”), where they launched with a roster of 12 creatives picked from a competition initiated to find the best talent in the country. With galleries in Dubai and Beirut firmly under their belt, 2013 sees the launch of Ayyam Gallery in London (immediately followed by the opening of a new space in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia).

By Grace Banks

The Middle East’s venerable Ayyam Gallery opens an art space in the British capital

A 200

The name Tamman Azzam may ring bells. The Syrian artist’s reproduction of Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss,” painted onto a bullet ridden building in Damascus, gained notoriety in early February 2013.

The image soon went viral, its rhetoric demanding the political world to take note.

It was a bold move – Azzam pointed to one of art’s most universally recognized representations of love and beauty, using it to draw attention to the Syrian civil war.

Reminiscent of the Brezhnev and Honecker kiss graffitied on the Berlin Wall, this was a fiercely political move and one supported

by Ayyam Gallery, an artistic and cultural

Their first show, “Shooting the Cloud”

by Lebanese artist and architect Nadim Karam, is a reaction to the commonly accepted symbolism of Middle Eastern art, like calligraphy and veiled women. These stereotypes are reverted through Karam’s Mark Rothko-reminiscent canvases and Dadaist use of mixed media, including glitter. “My use of glitter offers a fresh way to look at things, a new way to see war, what it is and what it means. But it isn’t recognizable straight away as a war picture,” explains Karam. For Hisham Samawi, this is Karam’s lure. “You look at Nadim’s work, and it’s so international and easy to relate to. If you were to take the art without any context, you would see something unique and special about it.”

It’s this mood that is at the crux of Ayyam’s new London space.

Ayyam Gallery is at 143 New Bond St., London W1S, tel. 44.20.7409.3568, www. ayyamgallery.com

©Ayyam/Susanne Hakuba/Nadim Karam

London bound

Through a mix of talent and foresight the Samawis manage to transcend the idea of Arabic art as a discipline in itself, redefining Middle Eastern creativity and how it is perceived throughout the world.

Their intention is to present monumental works of art, not simply works of the Middle Eastern canon. Hisham Samawi explains how deliberate this was. “With the London space, our aim was to take Middle Eastern art out of its regional context. We’re saying look, this art is on par with everything else happening in the world at the moment. And I think that the art world is ready for that.”

©2013 New Balance Athletic Shoe, Inc. ABZORB® crash pad for a smoother ride Revolutionary REVlite Technology for added responsiveness No-sew forefoot design for enhanced flexibility and comfort

The New Balance 890v3.

From the astonishingly light REVlite foam midsole to the intelligent no-sew forefoot design, the 890v3 is as responsive as it’s light. And as comfortable as it’s stable. It’s the right way to light.

com Available at Aïzone Stores T: +961 1 991 111 and Retail Sport Shops

ŠMOCA/Stefan Sagmeister

A high art _ exhibit

A 202

Don’t worry, be happy Stefan Sagmeister explores happiness

What’s happiness? How do you know if you’re really happy? Austrian-born, New York-based graphic designer Stefan Sagmeister has spent 10 years trying to find answers to these questions, in an unprecedented, artistic exploration of the concept of happiness.

Now, Sagmeister is unveiling his findings in a new exhibit at Los Angeles’ Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA). “The Happy Show” presents typographic investigations of a series of maxims, or rules to live by, originally culled from Sagmeister’s diary, manifested in a variety of imaginative and interactive forms. To contextualize the maxims that appear throughout the exhibition, Sagmeister incorporates the social data of Harvard psychologists Daniel Gilbert and Steven Pinker, psychologist Jonathan Haidt, anthropologist Donald Symons and several prominent historians.

In addition to individual works, some of which have been custom-made for this exhibition, “The Happy Show” includes a personal narrative, as Sagmeister’s

individual experience is portrayed beside social data detailing the role of age, gender, race, money and other factors that are often associated with happiness.

The 51-year-old designer blends typography and imagery in striking, fresh, ambitious and unsettling ways. Having influenced the culture of design over the past decade, he is perhaps best known for his album covers for Talking Heads, Lou Reed, OK Go and The Rolling Stones, to name only a few, as well as innovative campaigns that have entered the public consciousness, for companies like Levi’s and Aïshti.

What’s fascinating about this latest exhibit is that it offers visitors the experience of walking into the designer’s mind, as he attempts to increase his happiness via mediation, cognitive therapy and moodaltering pharmaceuticals.

Stefan Sagmeister’s “The Happy Show” is on view until June 9 at the MOCA Pacific Design Center, 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, California, tel. 1.310.657.0800, www.moca.org 203 A

ŠFrancis Ing, Museum of the City of New York, Charles Tracy

A high art _ fashion

The disco generation

A 204

Stephen Burrows revolutionized fashion with his sensuous clothing New York, the late ‘60s. Young Americans were casting off their parents’ outdated ideas and defining a new way of living, free from the shackles of middle class society. Enter Stephen Burrows, an African-American designer poised to shake New York’s volatile fashion scene to the core.

The first African-American designer to attain international fame, Burrows helped define the look of the disco club scene, ushering in a new, liberated version of American fashion.

In tribute to Burrows and his contributions to the world of fashion, the Museum of the City of New York is now hosting “Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced.” The show focuses on the designer, featuring original sketches, photographs, video and over 50 garments, ranging from his first fashion collection to slip dresses that twirled on the floor of Studio 54.

205 A

A high art _ fashion

Known for his signature “lettuce” edge, red zigzag stitching, his use of fringe and metallic fabrics, bold color blocking and slinky, body-defining silhouettes, Burrows created danceable designs firmly rooted in the glamorous, overthe-top nightlife of the era. His celebrity clientele included the great style icons of the late ‘60s and early ‘70s, like Lauren Bacall, Cher, Farrah Fawcett, Jerry Hall, Liza Minnelli and Diana Ross.

The Museum of the City of New York’s exhibition connects the milestones in Burrows’ career with his influential mark on fashion in the ‘70s and beyond, while examining his work within the context of the changes taking place in New York during that era.

“Stephen Burrows: When Fashion Danced” is on view until July 28 at the Museum of the City of New York, 1220 Fifth Ave., tel.

1.212.534.1672, www.mcny.org A 206

©Museum of the City of New York, Charles Tracy

Burrows was the first American designer given a free-standing boutique called Stephen Burrows’ World at Henri Bendel. He was also among the five American designers (with Halston, Anne Klein, Bill Blass and Oscar de la Renta) invited to show in Paris in 1973 at the legendary “Battle of Versailles,” which for the first time pitted American designers against Parisian icons Pierre Cardin, Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Emanuel Ungaro. In 1973, he became the first African-American recipient of the prestigious Coty Award (his first of three).

207 A

A high art _ fair

City in bloom

By Sabina Llewellyn-Davies

Beirut’s Artheum is fast establishing itself as a hub for local and regional art. This April, the Karantina space is scheduled to launch the first Beirut Bloom: Contemporary Art Fair, featuring a selection of new works by up-and-coming talents. “Our events have always been about bringing new art to the widest possible audience,” says Nino Azzi, founder of Artheum. “Contemporary art in all its shapes and forms: paintings, sculptures, installations.”

By bringing together artists living in the region, the fair offers art lovers an opportunity to see the wide scope of creativity coming out of the Middle East.

A 208

“Our vision for Beirut Bloom is to be stimulating and inclusive. This fair will create a platform that pushes for a dialogue, to allow a larger audience to participate in Beirut’s already vibrant art and cultural scene,” Azzi adds.

Beirut Bloom shows local and international artists, including Everitte Barbee, born and bred in Nashville, Tennessee. He now lives in Beirut where he creates artwork with Diwani Jali script. “My work is a contemporary manifestation of a traditional art,” says Barbee. “The script I use was perfected in the 15th century, and I try to reproduce it as accurately as possible. So,

©Everitte Barbee, Janet Hagopian

A new fair cements Beirut’s role as a regional art hub

in that respect, it’s a very traditional art.

However, many of the themes in my work, as well as the use of calligraphy to convey modern images and ideas, would lead most people to classify it as contemporary.”

Janet Hagopian, who has exhibited in Iran, Armenia, and Lebanon, is also showing at Beirut Bloom. “As an artist, it’s not always easy to find good spaces to exhibit,” she says, “but this venue is really exciting.”

“I think that Beirut, now more than ever, has become the cultural heart of the Middle East.

Just look at the many world-class artists that call Beirut home; modern legends like Ayman Baalbaki and Hussein Madi, or rising stars like Houmam al Sayed,” says Barbee.

“Beirut has all the potential to be an art hub,” Azzi adds. “More peace in the region and more stability will make it happen very soon.” For artists like Hagopian and Barbee, Beirut is already the best place to be.

Beirut Bloom: Contemporary Art Fair runs from April 17-27 at Artheum, Karantina, Beirut, tel. 71.781.783, www.artheum.com

This page “Malcolm X” (top left), “Pledge of Allegiance” (immediate left) and “Emily’s Lizard” (above), all by Everitte Barbee Opposite page “Trust” (left) and “Tree of Life” (right) by Janet Hagopian

209 A

A high art _ event

On provocation

ŠArmory Show

By Shirine Saad

A 210

This page “Untitled (The Meaning Of Life Is That It Stops)” by Barbara Kruger Opposite page “All of Nothing” by Todd Pavlisko (left), “I Am An American”

by Yamada Shuhei (top right) and “Graphite Painting on Canvas” by Elise Adibi (bottom right)

New York’s Armory Show fired up all artistic sensibilities

One hundred years after the groundbreaking 1913 Armory Show, which featured the work of European avantgarde artists such as Marcel Duchamp, Kandinsky, Cézanne and Picasso, the contemporary Armory – which borrowed the original name in 1999 – is seeking a new identity in an increasingly competitive and global art market.

While the Armory Show was the only important art fair in New York just a few years ago, new rivals such as Frieze, the Independent and ADAA have undermined its notoriety, offering fresher work and a less corporate approach. This past March, celebrating the centennial of the fair, the directors strived for a more thrilling program that included several provocateurs:

pieces by Duchamp himself, large Warhol paintings at Gagosian, Belgian artist Wim Delvoye’s tattooed taxidermy pig, Chinese artist Chen Shaoxiong’s drawings depicting protestors from Occupy Wall Street to Burma. There were direct references to Duchamp and Warhol, including free Brillo boxes offered by Charles Lutz, a functional urinal at Pierogi Gallery (courtesy of the artist Andrew Ohanesian), tributes to “Nude Descending a Staircase” at Francis M. Naumann and a booth dedicated to the Swedish artist Ulf Linde, known for his takes on “The Large Glass” and other works

by Duchamp.

The ultimate Duchampian and Warholian irony was channeled by the fair’s official artist, Liz Magic Laser. She created the 211 A

A high art _ event

bright blue staff T-shirts, on which the average income of an Armory visitor ($334,000) and the price of a booth ($24,000) were printed. She also printed out golden VIP badges (12,365 of them) and bought stakes at the real estate company that backs the fair, Vornado, framing them and selling them. “They’ve invested on me,” she said, “I invest on them.”

“Still Life with Spoons” by Ralph Goings (top), “Self Portrait/Felt Hand Stamp” by Chuck Close (left) and “Sally’s Mark on Tom” by Melora Kuhn (directly above)

A 212

©Armory Show

Critics, disappointed by the Armory’s corporate and political connections (Mayor Bloomberg endorsed the fair) and late take on the age-old marriage of art and business, claimed that the fair was struggling to stay alive. Indeed, important New York dealers such as Marian Goodman and Luhring Augustine have chosen the ADAA fair, while Gavin Brown and Maureen Paley are exhibiting at Independent. And all four of those are scheduled to be at Frieze in May, as are Hauser & Wirth. Still, it doesn’t stop the prices from climbing; Jean-Michel Basquiat’s painting in acrylic, oilstick and paper on canvas “Despues de un Puno” (1987) was priced at around $13 million.

A high art _ exhibits

Exhibition highlights from around the globe Adrian Ghenie “Adrian Ghenie: New Paintings” shines the spotlight on the young Romanian artist, who’s known for his meticulously crafted, often brutal paintings that build upon the darker moments of European history. Ghenie’s work reflects social and political abuses of power, his personal history and society’s collective memory of itself.

On view until May 4 at Pace Gallery, 534 W. 25th St., New York, tel. 1.212.929.7000, www. pacegallery.com A 214

©Christiane Baumgartner/Alan Cristea Gallery, Adrian Ghenie/Pace Gallery, Anja Kirschner & David Panos/Lisson Gallery

Spring artistic

The Magic of the State Esteemed art gallery Lisson collaborated with the new Cairobased Beirut art initiative to stage “The Magic of the State,” two interconnected exhibitions that opened first in Cairo (on March 3) and then in London (on March 27). The artists whose work is on display adopt magic as a filter to question the increasingly intricate ways in which power manifests itself within given social, economic and political structures.

On view until April 6 at Beirut, 11 Rd., 12 Mahmoud Sedky, Cairo, and until May 4 at Lisson Gallery, 52-54 Bell St., London NW1. Visit www.beirutbeirut.org and www.lissongallery.com Conflicted Memory The “Conflicted Memory” exhibit brings together the work of eight female artists who have lived within conflict zones or places of political unrest. Their work addresses the concept of recollection. Featured artists include Rita Donagh, Miriam de Búrca, Ruth Goddard, Adela Jusic, Christiane Baumgartner, Nadia Kaabi-Linke, Ninar Esber and K. Yoland.

On view from April 29-June 1 at the Alan Cristea Gallery, 31 Cork St., London W1, tel.

44.20.7439.1866, www. alancristea.com

A 215

Malgorzata Paszko In “Clair de Nuit,” Polish artist Malgorzata Paszko exhibits new work that includes landscapes in which she focuses on light, shadows and nighttime settings.

Paszko’s use of color gives her paintings both transparency and fluidity.

On view from April 23-May 18 at Galerie Alice Mogabgab, Karam Bldg., Ashrafieh, Beirut, tel. 01.204.984, www. alicemogabgab.com Alexander Calder An unprecedented exhibit, “Calder After the War” showcases nearly 50 works of art from 1945 to 1949, widely considered to be the most important period in Alexander Calder’s career. Sculptures, paintings and works on paper are shown, including masterpieces such as “Baby Flat Top” (1946) and “Little Parasite” (1947).

On view from April 19-June 7 at Pace Gallery, 6 Burlington Gardens, London W1S, tel.

44.20.3206.7600, www. pacegallery.com

A 216

©Calder Foundation New York/Art Resource NY, Malgorzata Paszko/Galerie Alice Mogabgab, Adam Reich/The Suzanne Geiss Company, Time Inc./Galerie Daniel Blau Munich-London

A high art _ exhibits

Paris Photo Los Angeles Paris Photo, the international art fair held annually in the French capital, takes place for the first time in Los Angeles this year. Giorgio Armani, the official partner of the fair since 2011, presents each year “The Acqua Exhibition.” This year’s “Acqua #3” features a selection of photographs on the theme of water, including work by Jim Goldberg, who photographed life in Haiti after the devastating January 2010 earthquake. Over 65 galleries and booksellers are participating in Paris Photo Los Angeles, including Regen Projects, Perrotin and Gagosian, to name a few.

On view from April 26-28 at Paramount Pictures Studio, 5555 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, losangeles.parisphoto.com Mary Beth Edelson “22 Others” is a conceptual art project created by Mary Beth Edelson between 1971 and 1973, with the intention both to expand the artist’s connections with her community by inviting others into her art-making process, and to experiment with Carl Jung’s construct of the collective unconscious. Forty years after Edelson’s initial installment in Washington DC, this historical exhibit is restaged for its New York debut.

On view until April 20 at The Suzanne Geiss Company, 76 Grand St., New York, tel. 1.212.625.8130, www. suzannegeiss.com A 217

A high art _ exhibits

James Turrell This fascinating exhibit of James Turrell’s work is in anticipation of the three-venue museum exhibition presented concurrently at the Guggenheim Museum in New York, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and the Museum of Fine Arts, Houston in May and June 2013. Titled “Roden Crater and Autonomous Structures,” the show focuses on the Roden Crater, an extinct volcano in the Painted Desert of Northern Arizona that Turrell has been transforming into a monumental work of art since the ‘70s.

On view until April 20 at Pace Gallery, 32 E. 57th St., New York, tel. 1.212.421.3292, www. pacegallery.com

A 218

©Marilyn Minter/Regen Projects, James Turrell/Pace Gallery

Marilyn Minter Artist Marilyn Minter unveils five monumental paintings for her latest solo exhibit.

Accompanying this body of work are Minter’s earliest black and white photographic series. Taken in 1969, these photos of her drugaddicted mother set the stage for Minter’s career-long exploration of the pathology of glamour.

On view from April 6-May 11 at Regen Projects, 6750 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles, tel. 1.310.276.5424, www. regenprojects.com

WWW.AISHTIBLOG.COM

A gourmet _ restaurants

City gourmands

By Brent Gregston and Marwan Naaman

Places to try this spring

L’Instant d’Or in Paris Chef Frédéric Duca won his first Michelin star in the 2013 edition, which was unveiled in February. It will come as no surprise to anyone who has eaten at his new restaurant in Paris, L’Instant d’Or. The name – the golden moment – is a play on its location in the Triangle d’Or, the super-chic Paris neighborhood where designers from Dior to Saint Laurent showcase their talent.

“I’m still refining my style of cooking,” Duca says. Only 35 years old, he has worked for some of France’s most talented and temperamental chefs – Gerald Passedat at Le Petit Nice, Michel del Burgo at Taillevent and Christian Willer at Hotel Martinez in Cannes. Now, he revels in doing his own thing, giving free rein to his culinary A 220

intuition and gleefully experimenting with the best ingredients.

The interior (by Marc Hertrich & Nicolas Adne) offers three decors in three rooms, with a chandelier by artist Géraud de Tarsiac and a pair of totemic robots. Lacquered wall panels, futuristic chairs and robots are all uncompromisingly white, complimented by sly pop art pieces and earthy-toned banquettes. There’s also an intimate, mirrored dining room where the polyglot sommelier, Marco Martinetti, stores the wine.

Duca is from Marseille and his seasonal menu always includes fresh fish and seafood – homard bleu, turbot, line-caught sea bass, sea urchins. He also focuses a lot of culinary attention on humble vegetables, unleashing their amazing freshness and texture.

Think cauliflower mousse, cucumber sorbet, artichoke ravioli, artichokes again – Jerusalem this time – in a warm salad with hazelnut oil froth. His team includes

©Geraldine Bruneel, Langan’s

Whether you’re in London, Paris or Beirut, here are three casually elegant restaurants where traditional cuisine is updated with a touch of modernity.

the talented Japanese pastry chef Kiriko Nakamura. Her desserts make for an inspired finale – a mascarpone mousse, for example, with a counterpoint of poached pear jelly and candied ginger, topped by sorrel and almond dacquoise.

For reservations, tel. tel. 33.1.4723.4678, www.linstandor.com Langan’s Brasserie in London Few restaurants can lay claim to the kind of history that Langan’s Brasserie possesses. Located just off Piccadilly across from Green Park, this London institution continues to attract celebrities, businesspeople and city visitors over 35 years after its initial opening.

Langan’s was the place to eat in the ‘80s, when the owners – Irish entrepreneur Peter Langan and British actor Michael Caine – were both high-profile media darlings.

The restaurant has since changed, but the English atmosphere, from the creamcolored walls covered with portraits and artworks to the very proper and slightly eccentric waiters, remains the same.

On the February night we dined at Langan’s,

the place was filled with an eclectic clientele that ranged from young professionals out for a bite after a hard day’s work to older gents meeting up to socialize over a bottle of red and couples out for an intimate meal amid lively surroundings.

The cuisine here is a mix of Anglo and French specialties, with nearly 20 starters and almost as many mains listed on the menu. As appetizers, try the spinach soufflé with anchovy sauce (a Langan’s classic and a masterpiece of unusual flavors), the smoked salmon with brown bread and butter (a traditional favorite) and the quintessentially British poached eggs with smoked haddock.

For the main course, choices range from fish and seafood to meat and poultry. The grilled lemon sole with parsley butter is delicately flavored, while the roast maize-fed chicken, with thyme and parsley stuffing, plus bread and bacon sauce, is comfort food at its best. We also recommend the chargrilled swordfish with tomato, chili and red onion salsa.

As an ideal finish to a Langan’s experience, try the treacle tart with custard or vanilla ice cream, or the crème brulée. You can also 221 A

gourmet _ restaurants

All the while, be sure to accompany every dish with wine or champagne. Langan’s wine list showcases some of the world’s best red and white vintages from France and Italy, as well as champagnes from the likes of Moët & Chandon, Perrier-Jouët and Dom Pérignon.

For reservations, tel. 44.20.7491.8822, www. langansrestaurants.co.uk/brasserie Métropole in Beirut For a city with so many restaurants, Beirut remains lacking in authentic brasseries. That’s why many Beirut gourmands heaved a sigh of relief when Métropole opened in Minet el Hosn, on the edge of Downtown Beirut.

Owned and operated by the Boubess Group, this new eatery showcases Paris-inspired interiors, complete with red leather benches and chairs, dark wood paneling and a floor covered with engaging, cream-colored mosaics.

Its street-corner location and massive windows allow for nice views of Beirut’s modern new city center.

Much like the setting, the menu is pure brasserie, with appetizers like onion soup, warm asparagus salad, duck foie gras and steak tartare. The Métropole salad – fresh greens, warm artichokes, green beans, sundried A 222

tomatoes and asparagus – is a delight and a good way to start off your meal. Seafood lovers can also order Le Grand (a selection of fresh oysters) or Le Métropole (a grand offering of shellfish).

For the main course, Métropole gives you many options.

If you’re in the mood for lighter fare, opt for the Niçoise salad with fresh seared tuna or the Caesar salad with either shrimp or chicken. Meat lovers can try the gourmet hamburger or filet steak (choose medium or medium-rare), both served with golden French fries, or the classic escalope milanaise. If you prefer fish or seafood, the mérou a l’anis is a wonder: tender and fluffy and perfectly seasoned with anise. Other tasty options include moules frites, lemon risotto with shrimp and seafood linguini.

Métropole’s dessert menu is a grand affair, with so many offerings you’ll find it difficult to make a choice.

The vacherin, a decadent, towering dessert of chocolate and vanilla ice cream sandwiched between meringue slices and dripping with chocolate sauce, is out of this world. Another great choice is the tulipe, a cookie cup filled with vanilla ice cream and fresh strawberries and topped with Chantilly cream and a berry coulis. Either way, you’ll fall further in love with Métropole and wish you had enough room to try every dessert on the menu.

For reservations, tel. 01.999.938.

©Raya Farhat

choose from a selection of sorbets if you’re in the mood for something lighter.

© 2013 SWAROVSKI AG

A gourmet _ london

You’re not on the guest list!

By Grace Banks

A crop of restaurants are shaking up the way Londoners dine. Now, chic city dwellers are queuing for the hottest tables in town, and with everything from luxury seafood to burgers in the mix, this is cutting-edge dining at its best.

Burger and Lobster

Fancy a bit of lobster in your burger? So does the whole of London, who, thanks to the arrival of this super sleek diner, are enjoying fine seafood like never before.

Lobster is the name of the game here, slow-steamed then grilled to achieve that sweet smoky flavor. Choose to have yours in a burger or freshly baked brioche roll and indulge in additional lashings of bacon or cheese if you wish. All dishes are £20, and for that you get a large side of chips, salad and a whole one-pound lobster. This is a queue to see and be seen in.

36 Dean St., W1, tel. 44.20.7432.4800, www. burgerandlobster.com A 224

©Bubbledogs, Burger and Lobster, Duck and Waffle, Lucky Chip

London’s popular new restaurants have a strict no-reservation policy

Lucky Chip Slider Bar

Roll up, roll up. Embracing a romantic nostalgia for the past mixed with kitsch Americana, Lucky Chip Slider Bar is one of the best burger spots in town. Located in Soho’s trendy Player bar, the place offers an array of burgers, be it pulled pork, smoked haddock or traditional beef, with a classic American sides menu that won’t leave diner food lovers disappointed – mac ‘n’ cheese and tacos are all in the mix. Don’t fancy a burger? The bucket of chicken is delicious and great to share. Make sure you save room for dessert: the bespoke ice cream sundaes are a famed must.

8 Broadwick St., W1, tel. 44.20.7065.6841, sliderbar.co.uk

Bubbledogs

Bubbledogs is a stylish hot dog joint/champagne bar.

Bye-bye soft drinks, we’ll have a glass of Moët with our greasy food thank you. Choose from a selection of dogs – there’s beef, pork or vegetarian – and pick your style: be it the diet friendly Naked, served without a bun, or the exotic K-Dawg, packed with red bean paste and kimchi. Now all you’re left to do is select your fizz, and with their expertly sourced champagne, you won’t be disappointed. Just make sure you find where the napkins are: there’s a strict no cutlery policy.

70 Charlotte St., W1, tel. 44.20.7637.7770, www. bubbledogs.co.uk

Duck and Waffle

At Duck and Waffle you get some of London’s most amazing views. Located 40 floors up in a City tower, this place packs a serious punch. The namesake dish is, of course, the duck waffle: a delicious traditional Belgian waffle topped with crisp duck confit, fried duck egg and a dash of maple syrup, and a great dish to share with friends. Other dynamic creations include spiced Scotch egg and calamari with chorizo. This is the perfect place to spend a night relaxing, eating and watching the twinkly lights of London below you in all their glamour.

Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2, tel.

44.20.3640.7310, duckandwaffle.com

225 A

A gourmet _ fruit

Spring candy

By Salma Abdelnour

Lebanon’s luscious seasonal fruit

Mulberries In Lebanon, mulberries (toot) are in season for just a few weeks, around late June to mid-July. Both white and red varieties have a syrupy, slightly tart, unforgettable flavor. Sure, they’re high in fiber, iron, calcium and antioxidants – but even if they weren’t, who could resist them? Alas, in many regions outside Lebanon (except parts of Asia, Africa and the Americas), mulberries are virtually unknown, or left for wild animals to devour. Fashionable New Yorkers shop at boutiques on Mulberry Street, but chances are they’ve never actually tasted a mulberry. Too bad: nothing beats mulberries eaten straight off the tree, topped with cream, baked into pies or savored year-round in sharab al toot – excellent on its own or as a fruity cocktail mixer.

Janarek As pretty as they are addictively delicious, vitamin-C-packed A 226

janarek have something for everyone: mouth-puckeringly tart at the start of the season, sweeter near the end. Janarek are usually equated with greengage plums or sour plums, although the Lebanese variety of the fruit is tangier than the greengage.

Meanwhile, mention of “sour plums” often creates confusion outside Lebanon: “Why eat a plum if it isn’t ripe?” A shame.

Californians who are lucky enough to find “sour plums” in local markets are starting to embrace the fruit, but no one understands janarek quite like the Lebanese. Here, we know exactly how to eat them: just sprinkle with salt, bite and repeat.

Akkidini No one seems to agree on how to transliterate the Arabic name of this little orange

fruit into English: akkidini? askadinia? akka dunya?

Originally cultivated in China, the fruit – a relative of the rose and also known as the loquat, the Japanese plum and the nèfle –grows in subtropical regions, and prominently in the Mediterranean. In Lebanon, these sweet, oval-shaped treats are a sure sign of spring, and it’s hard to believe that in many parts of the world they’re bitter and nearly inedible. The varieties that grow here, usually around April, taste like no other fruit, with a dense but soft texture and a nuanced flavor with hints of mango, apricot, even lychee. Plus they’re full of nutrients, particularly Vitamin A, potassium and fiber. Tip: they also make a fantastic jam. And no need to add pectin, since they’re already loaded with it.

Green almonds Novice eaters of green almonds (loz akhdar) struggle to crack them open neatly with their teeth, and end up chewing on the shell. Luckily, the shell is one of the best parts, especially in the first few days when the unripe almond is fresh off the tree and still has a pleasant lemony taste. Some prefer to go straight for the soft white almond inside, especially when it still has a watery texture and a subtle, grassy flavor. Loz akhdar are usually ubiquitous around mid-March through April, when they show up on trees around the Shouf and other regions, and all over Beirut’s markets. That’s the signal to stock up, bring out the salt for dipping and serve with chilled beer – or ice-cold glasses of sharab al toot!

©Images shutterstock.com

Spring is a time to reap big rewards: for getting through the cold and wet weeks – and surviving the winter holiday marathon of Christmas, New Year’s and Valentine’s Day. Even though the warm weather is its own sweet prize, in Lebanon springtime brings a few bonuses, namely the incredible seasonal produce that grows in abundance here – and can be hard to find elsewhere on earth.

A lifestyle _ movies

Your own private screening room

By May Farah

ŠEmpire, Grand Cinemas

Lebanon’s new movie theaters offer luxury and exclusivity

A 228

This page The VIP theater at ABC Dbayeh Opposite page Empire Premiere premium theaters at Sodeco Square

ABC Dbayeh and CineMall right next door have them. So do a growing number of theaters in Canada, the United States, Thailand and beyond. Whether they will become the new standard is too early to say, but their growing popularity suggests this new alternative movie theater experience is here to stay.

They are premium movie theaters, and what they offer varies, but all have fewer, larger and more comfortable seating, which means less crowded theaters, specialty foods and beverages, and more personalized service.

And they all seem to be motivated by the same objective: to make moviegoing an enjoyable experience again, particularly to a specific demographic.

“It’s a luxury experience,” says Gino Haddad, the business development director of Empire Theaters in Lebanon, who explains that these new theaters are a way to win back the 35- to 55-year-old crowd, whose numbers have been declining, according to recent studies. “Many of this group have refrained from going to the movies because they are too crowded, the lobbies are uncomfortable, the ticket queue is too long, and because the experience has become uncivilized in many ways,” he says, pointing to people talking on the phone while the movie is showing as one example. For many adults, “it’s become annoying unless you go to the 3pm show, and not everyone has that luxury.”

It was those concerns that prompted Empire Theaters to transform the entire Sodeco Square cinema complex into an exclusive destination, the Empire Premiere theaters, which opened in March.

“Empire Premiere is about giving moviegoers a premium outing,” says Haddad. “With its prime location in the heart of Ashrafieh, and easily accessible to many, with ample parking, the Empire Theaters were the ideal location to be transformed into a luxury cinema complex.”

Over in Dbayeh, the Grand Cinemas in ABC opened last summer with eight state-of-theart theaters, including a Grand Class that has only 20 luxurious seats. “We were in effect the country’s very first VIP theater,” says Carly Ramia, the regional marketing director for Grand Cinemas. “In line with the Grand Cinemas promise of providing the ultimate cinema experience, moviegoers enjoy a broad range of booking options, both online and on site, and an unrivaled selection of concessions, served by a passionate team of professionals trained to deliver the Grand standard.” CineMall in Le Mall Dbayeh also boasts an exclusive VIP theater.

The Empire Premiere theaters at Sodeco have, they hope, taken the cinema outing to a whole new level, to become not just the business class of movie theaters, but the first

class. What distinguishes Empire Premiere, explains Haddad, is that the entire complex is exclusive, restricted to the over 18 crowd.

The six theaters, which each had 180 seats, now have 30 seats each, and that seat is a plush reclining Lazy-Boy with a cushion and blanket, and a side-table complete with a call button for in-seat personalized service. There is no box office, so customers reserve their seats online, on the phone or with one of the hostesses at the theater. Each theater will have fewer showings, and not all showings for all theaters will begin at the same time. “So, no matter what time customers come, a show will be starting,” says Haddad. “And, even if they come early, they will have more time to enjoy the lobby.”

The hotel-like lobby, with free Wi-Fi, features a long bar serving a variety of drinks, and a food menu designed by Le Sushi Bar made fresh on the premises, perfect for a pre-show dinner. Alternatively, food can be ordered and delivered by waiters right to your chair.

“Even our snacks will be of the gourmet standard, such as popcorn in wasabi sesame, chili pepper or zaatar flavors, and the finest chocolates,” says Haddad.

“This is a one of a kind venue that is unlike other theaters, where even if you’re going to the VIP Theater, you still have to wait in line for concessions or to buy tickets,” he adds.

“It’s a civilized moviegoing experience.”

229 A

A lifestyle _ private club

The great pop

By Grace Banks

London’s first-ever members only popup takes decadence to another level

This exclusive members club offers more than cocktails. Located in the grand senate rooms of the Royal Academy, The Burlington Social Club bestows members with the chance to experience a unique drinking and dining experience – grand but with the Pret A Diner trademark twist. Customers can choose from a variety of exciting scenarios: fancy reclining on a plush vintage seat near the bar? Then the romantically lit lounge is for you. If you feel like a bit of adventure, one of the 30 seats located on the precipice of a huge central scaffold system will be more suited to your tastes.

The Burlington Social Club is brought to the Royal Academy senate rooms by the creative duo behind The Minotaur, at The Old Vic A 230

Tunnels, and Italians do it Better, at 50 St. James’ Street. The same wit and charm that made those pop-ups so successful infuses this latest venture. Members really do experience something special here, with a drinks menu designed to marry up with the Michelinstarred food, offered by trendily outfitted waiters. The cocktails pack a serious punch too, and include a classic martini served in a straw piped through a quail’s eggshell.

The Burlington Social Club speaks volumes on how Londoners like to party. With the heady mixture of high-octane glamour, urban atmosphere and word-of-mouth publicity, it’s the perfect place to celebrate being in London.

The Burlington Social Club is at The Royal Academy in Piccadilly and is open until June 23.

©The Burlington Social Club

The pop-up scene has revolutionized socializing in London. Chic urbanites aren’t just after the latest cocktail – now it’s all about where you’re having that cocktail, and how long your chosen location will last. The latest venture from cult pop-up pioneers Pret A Diner is sure to impress. Their members-only club fuses the casual with sparkling glamour, fast becoming London’s most sophisticated and exciting place to have a drink.

A lifestyle _ spa

Opulent well-being

By Marianne Wisenthal

Toronto’s luxury hotel spas come of age

There was a time when the hotel spa was little more than a blow dry or (if you were lucky) a Swedish massage in a tiny back room. Once an amenity geared mainly to business travelers, hotel spas are becoming destinations in their own right. Three of Toronto’s most luxurious properties are leading the charge with unique treatments in opulent surroundings.

Miraj Hammam Spa

Old world meets new at the Miraj Hammam Spa by Caudalie Paris, set in the sumptuous Shangri-La. Vancouverite Surinder Bains describes her eastern venture as “Morocco A 232

meets Bordeaux.” Sadly not a fez in sight, but clients are blissfully transported by the Gold Jerusalem marble and flowing fountains. The jewel in this crown is most certainly the private hammam. Typically a communal experience (endured while avoiding eye contact), here it can be enjoyed entirely on your own. The Hammam & Gommage treatment is truly divine: 15 minutes of steamy alone time followed by a detoxifying scrub with Moroccan black soap, olive extract and eucalyptus. Also a must, the Caudalie Grand Facial, using parabenfree vinotherapy products personalized to one’s skin and gleaned from French grapevines.

Afterward guests can be seen floating to the

©Four Seasons, Ritz-Carlton, Shangri-La

The Spa at Four Seasons

Spa My Blend at the Ritz-Carlton

Miraj Hammam Spa at Shangri-La

Alhambra Lounge for Moroccan mint tea and fresh baklava.

Visit www.mirajcaudaliespa.com

Spa My Blend

Fit and fabulous could be the motto at the Ritz-Carlton’s Spa My Blend by Clarins.

Surrounded with a striking collection of Canadian art, it’s hard not to feel like a million bucks sipping limewater under the soft glow of a blown-glass chandelier by sculptor Jeffrey Goodman. Clients are encouraged to arrive an hour before treatments to take a breather in the green tea-infused vitality pool, aromatherapy steam room or salt-water swimming pool with views of the CN Tower. The jet-lagged and overworked can sign up for restorative

yoga classes with live drumming, then stop at the My Blend by Clarins skincare center (the only one in North America) for one of 200 custom-blended options. For a bit of decadence, book a precision pedicure at The Champagne Nail Bar. The Jetson-style chairs are plush, and the bubbly is served in fluted glasses. Workaholic health nuts love the 24-hour fitness center, where the Kinesis machines are state-of-the-art and each guest’s water is chilled to taste.

Visit www.spamyblendtoronto.com

The Spa at Four Seasons

In tony Yorkville, the Spa at Four Seasons is all about the wow experience. Here, says director Todd Hewitt, “spiritual and holistic have replaced scrub and rub.” Certainly

the Yabu Pushelberg-designed space is breathtaking, and at 30,000 square feet it’s the largest in the city. But what keeps harried Torontonians coming back for more is the keen attention to detail, like custom-made memory foam massage tables with pressure-sensitive heating and faux fur blankets. If that isn’t enough to wind you down, pollen-free organic essential oils are pumped through the HVAC system and soothing music is piped-in underwater at the pool. The wow-factor goes even further with the treatments: the Asian Fusion massage uses Balinese and Malaysian techniques, while the Holistic Gemstone Sapphire facial incorporates the healing powers of rubies, diamonds and pearls. Wow, indeed.

Visit www.fourseasons.com/toronto/spa 233 A

A lifestyle _ vineyards

Life on an LA vineyard

By J. Michael Welton

At a cool $29.5 million, it’s not for the faint of heart. But then again, Moraga Vineyards Estate in Bel-Air, right in the middle of Los Angeles, not only offers award-winning wines but a taste of Hollywood history too.

Not to mention a view of Richard Meier’s Getty Center across the San Diego Freeway.

It’s situated on 11 acres, seven of them planted with grapes that don’t leave the property until they’re fermented, sold and carted away by the case. Fruit for both reds and whites are grown and harvested here, then turned to wine, and bottled, stored and marketed. “It’s one of the most highly rated wines out there,” says Jim Kline of Surterre Properties, who’s handling the sale.

Indeed, its customers include the Peninsula Beverly Hills, the Hotel Bel-Air and the Getty Center, where US first lady Michelle Obama happened to try the Sauvignon Blanc – and ordered a shipment. Hers was among the 900 cases shipped annually – including 300 whites and 600 reds.

The property was originally developed from ranch to estate by Victor Fleming, who directed Gone with the Wind and The Wizard of Oz. Northrop Grumman CEO Tom Jones bought it in 1958, intent on growing grapes for wine. “He needed a weekend getaway, but then he decided on the estate for a full-time

A 234

house,” he says. Jones planted grapes early on, then bore a tunnel into a hillside for cool storage and installed winemaking equipment seven years ago. “The hillside is quite vertical and quite spectacular,” Kline says.

It’s a favorable site for grapevines, funneling ocean breezes off Santa Monica Bay five miles away to keep the fruit cool. And the soil in its canyon is quite unusual.

“Grapes for whites are planted on the lowest part of the property, on the Benedict Canyon Fault,” says winemaker Scott Rich.” The rest of the vines are planted on the uplifted seabed that makes up most of Los Angeles, in soil that Jones found quite similar to that of the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions in France.

But the entire estate offers up an otherworldly feel, unlike anything in the area. “It’s a little jewel of agricultural California. It feels like it felt 50 years ago,” says Rich. “If you were brought on the property blindfolded, and then had it taken off in the middle of it, you’d have no idea you were in Los Angeles. You’d think you were in Tuscany.” Better yet, if you buy the estate, you also purchase the $4 million inventory of wine tucked into that hillside cave. That alone might be worth the price of admission.

For more info, visit www.moragavineyards.com

©Moraga Vineyards Estate

Moraga, Bel-Air’s only winery, is yours for the taking

A lifestyle _ fashion trucks

Haute wheels

By Gail Goldberg

Mobile fashion boutiques are truckin’ across America Now this is the kind of street style we can roll with.

Swoon-worthy dresses, to-die for denim and must-have handbags served up from posh and parkable boutiques, otherwise known as fashion trucks. Utterly cool and fabulously chic, these refurbished trucks, airstreams, buses and trailers are popping up everywhere stateside, New York to California. And they’re being greeted with glee by hordes of fashionphiles who can’t wait to dig in and shop aboard.

The Styleliner

Parking spot: New York City Driver: Joey Wolfer Inventory: You’ll find no signs of its origins as a potato-chip delivery truck – other than the current crop of finger-lickin’ goodies, that is. Accessorycentric and sharply curated, the ever-changing stock features a range of high-end handbags, footwear and gorgeous gems (with bohemian tendencies) from artisans and indie labels around the globe. We’re particularly smitten with Styleliner’s eponymous line of belts, jewelry and bags.

Track it on Twitter: @TheStyleliner A 236

©Bootleg, The Fashion Truck, TopShelf Boutique, The Styleliner

Join the caravan as we road trip from coast to coast with a quartet of our favorite fashion wheelies. Fill ’er up!

The Fashion Truck

Parking spot: Boston Driver: Emily Benson Inventory: Trendy 20-somethings, say hello to your newest always-on-the-go BFF and style soulmate.

The converted 18-footer with perfectly high ceilings is loaded with fun and flirty accessories – shoe clips, scarves and cocktail rings – and covetable and decidedly un-mass-produced fast fashions, from the likes of YA Los Angeles, Theme Label and Lush. No single item is priced more than $100. The fitting rooms are full-on fab.

Track it on Twitter: @TheFashionTruck

Bootleg

Parking spot: Austin, Texas Driver: Sarah Ellison Lewis Inventory: The killer pairs inhabiting this footwearonly 30-foot airstream will rock your world – and, no doubt, crowd your shoe closet. The scene on any given day: Opening Ceremony ballets kick it with tomboy-chic boots from Austin-based Comb Collective and Pella Moda metallic sling-backs. Indeed, there’s a shoe for every foot, but you won’t see your heels coming and going thanks to the savvy buyer’s focus on hard-to-find brands and littleknown labels. Shoe addicts prepare to binge.

Track it on Twitter: @BootlegAirstrm

TopShelf Boutique

Parking spot: San Francisco Driver: Christina Ruiz Inventory: Eclectic is the name of the game aboard San Francisco’s first mobile boutique, lovingly birthed by a graduate of the city’s Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising. It’s chicly appointed (we’re talking fleur-de-lis ceiling tiles and funky vintage-y wallpaper) with a focus on wallet-friendly, locally made clothing and accessories – fashion-to-table, if you will. On the menu: chic rocker tees, hipster tunics, glam cocktail rings and femme frocks. No doubt about it: the hills are most definitely alive with the sounds of…style.

Track it on Twitter: @TopshelfStyle 237 A

A journey _ spain

A shady day in Seville

By Dorothy Weiner

A 238

To really understand what the “New World” meant to the 15th century, you need to visit the Old World, specifically Seville. This is where Magellan launched his expeditions to the Americas and Christopher Columbus’ voyages paved the way for Spain’s 200-year monopoly on the riches there. By the 16th century, that fortunate city was designated the capital of the Carrera de Indias, the Indies route, and as such it became the main trading port with the Americas for two centuries.

The city was taken from the Moors by King Ferdinand III in the 13th century, during the “Reconquista,” and rather than destroy the culture established by the Muslim sultans of North African descent, the Spanish just built alongside it. In fact, it is said that three religions – Judaism, Christianity and Islam – coexisted peacefully in Seville for two centuries, until 1492, when King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabel I of Castile expelled all “non-believers” during the Inquisition.

The capital of Spain’s southern Andalusia region, Seville at some time was under the rule of Romans, Visigoths and Moors, and it has the outstanding architecture to prove it. Its Cathedral of Seville, the largest Gothic structure in Europe, is the final resting place of Spanish monarchs and, reputedly, of Columbus himself. The Moorish Alcazar Palace was the first in Europe to have gardens filled with exotic flora from the southern hemisphere (including oranges), and Santa Cruz, the city’s old Jewish Quarter, delights visitors with its narrow lanes, wrought iron doors and flower-strewn balconies.

Historically, since the time of the Visigoths, the area was known for salt mining; in fact the word “salary” originates from the custom of paying workers with salt (sal). Seville is also known for vino de Jerez, which the British anglicized into the word “sherry.” The capital of the Moorish empire, Seville is the center of flamenco dance, so you may be treated to an impromptu performance in the streets, like we were, if you happen to visit on a festival day. Processions of men with guitars and ruffle-clad women sang and danced their way through the scenic squares of the old city.

©Getty Images

Visit the Spanish city where Islam, Christianity and Judaism have fused to create a better world

The Alcazar Royal Palace, which together with the cathedral dominates the historic old city, was originally a Moorish fortress and has fascinating Eastern features like ornate tile work and stucco frieze on the walls and ceilings, none of it depicting the human form, since that was forbidden by Muslims. Originally built in the 12th century by the Moors, the palace was later embellished in the 15th century by Seville’s Christian rulers, creating a style unique to this area called mudejar. It is this blend of Moorish and Christian features that so fascinates visitors. In fact, Alcazar, which means “the fort” in Arabic, is among the 3,000 words derived from Arabic still used in Spain today.

Inside the palace, courtyards are named for their function: El Patio de la Montería (the hunting courtyard), El Patio del Yeso (the plaster courtyard) and El Patio de las Doncellas (the maidens courtyard).

Second-story openings overlooking the courtyards are covered by ornate spindles made of Lebanese cedar. Behind the wooden windows, the women of the

royal harem gathered to see and hear what the men were doing – without being seen. In a style noticeably different from European landscapes, the Alcazar has a series of small sunken and recessed courtyard gardens spread over 13 acres. These are variously adorned with pools, fish ponds, fountains and colorfully tiled walkways and stairs. Plantings include such exotic species as hibiscus, magnolia, acanthus, hyacinths and palm. And present everywhere are bitter orange trees, also introduced by the Moors for use in the manufacture of perfume, marmalade and Cointreau.

A short walk from the Alcazar is Seville Cathedral (St. Mary of the Sea), started in 1402 and finished 102 years later. With the largest nave in Spain and four transepts, it is breathtaking in scope and has ornate features befitting the most powerful trading city of the time.

Lining the walls are 45 private chapels belonging to noble families, each with its own iron gate, stunning paintings and privately commissioned stained glass windows created by the most accomplished Flemish, 239 A

A journey _ spain

The Cathedral’s Giralda Tower, originally a minaret from the old mosque that stood at this site in the 12th century, is widely recognized as the symbol of Seville. It is topped by a statuette of Faith, a woman holding a shield in one hand, a palm in the other. Seville Cathedral also has the biggest altar in Europe, with 45 vignettes depicting the life of Christ, and another altar, Monument of the Holy Wall, all in sterling silver. Supported by four life-size figures representing the four kingdoms of Spain – Aragon, Castilla, Leon and Navarra – is the tomb of Columbus. But despite 21stcentury confirmation that the explorer’s DNA is in the tomb, the Dominican Republic, where he landed in 1492, still claims to be his burial site.

Even though there is enough ancient history in Seville’s old city to fascinate you for days, take a break from the Middle Ages to admire Plaza de America and Plaza de España, both built for the 1929 Exhibition of the Americas. Ornate pavilions line the former, along with rose gardens in every color.

Plaza de España is a breathtaking vision of bridges, gardens, minarets and tile work built as an homage to Spain’s four kingdoms.

A 240

Its immense cobblestoned courtyard and archways have been used for filming three popular films: Star Wars, Lawrence of Arabia and, most recently, The Dictator.

Be sure to make time for tapas at an outdoor café. The sky’s the limit for what is offered during the midday meal, but paella, calamari, roasted potatoes and fish cakes are among the favorites. Even if all that lunchtime food doesn’t slow you down, the Spanish tradition of siesta will.

Everything shuts down from 1:30pm until about 5:30pm, so you may as well do as the Spanish do: eat, drink, rest and prepare for a night on the town.

Mini guide to Seville Stay Eme Catedral Hotel is across from La Giralda and as a renovation of old townhouses, offers both ambience and convenience. Hotel Alfonso is probably the most renowned lodging in town, located across from the Alcazar. Newly renovated, it is pricey ($600-plus) but lovely.

Play This is the city of flamenco, so perhaps you’ll be lured into a performance one evening in Santa Cruz. And given that so

many operas are set in this magical city, you might try to plan your trip to coincide with a performance of Carmen, Barber of Seville or Don Giovanni at Teatro de la Maestranza. Also fun is the arts and crafts market held daily at El Pistigo, highlighting local creations.

Eat The charming cobblestoned streets and squares of Seville are lined with cafés that serve tapas, wine and beer. There’s Egaña Oriza, opened by José Mari Egaña, avid hunter and chef. The menu reflects those passions, although much of what is served comes from the region, including wild boar, duck and ostrich. Less experimental is Enrique Becerra, an Andalusian restaurant near the cathedral that does tapas, fish, lamb, sangria and other regional dishes. A favorite of locals is Taberna del Alabardero, also near the cathedral, where the city’s affluent dine on things like spicy peppers with bull meat, cod dishes and Iberian foie gras.

Shop Tons of little shops line the winding streets and squares near the cathedral and the Alcazar. These sell mementos that once you’re home, you’ll appreciate having, things like hand-painted fans, mantillas, flamenco dolls and flamenco costumes.

©Getty Images

German and Italian artists of the day. There are nearly 100 such windows!

www.aeronautica.difesa.it

www.aeronauticamilitare-collezioneprivata.it Available at all A誰zone stores, +961 .1. 99 11 11

A journey _ london hotels

Icons revisited

By Marwan Naaman

How do London’s Sanderson and St. Martins Lane fare a decade on?

Sanderson Sanderson, located off Oxford Street not far from Selfridges, first opened in 1958, but it didn’t take on its current incarnation until 2000, when it reopened after massive renovations by Starck. Overnight, the hotel became London’s place-to-be, as revelers flocked to its watering holes: Long Bar and Purple Bar. Amazingly, neither place has lost its popularity. When we visited in February this year, the Long Bar was still one of the most popular places in town for after-work cocktails.

The dramatic onyx bar runs 80 feet in length, A 242

allowing you to scoop up your Deluxe Mojito, knock it back, glide down to another seat, sample a Tropical Caipiroska and just keep moving. The evening never has to end.

While the Long Bar is the place to show off and exhibit your designer wear, the Purple Bar is where you head for a secret rendezvous. Planning a forbidden tryst sometime after the witching hour? Just meet up with your significant other at the Purple Bar, a chic, intimate, darkly lit lounge doused in shades of violet, purple and lavender. Order a bottle of Laurent-Perrier Brut rosé, sit back and see where the night takes you.

The third place of note located on the Sanderson’s ground floor (right next to the Long Bar) is Suka restaurant. Designed by Paris-based India Mahdavi, Suka offers a series of communal tables that are perfectly appropriate for the Malaysian street food served here. Soups, satays, curries, wok-fried dishes and other Asian specialties adorn the menu. In

©Morgans Hotel Group

We first visited the Morgans Hotel Group’s two iconic London hotels over 10 years ago, soon after they opened, and covered the two properties in the December 2002 issue of A magazine. As envisioned by Philippe Starck, Sanderson and St. Martins Lane were at the top of the cool scale, housing the world’s most dazzling bars and restaurants in a magical setting. So how do both hotels feel during the second decade of the new millennium?

This page St. Martins Lane Opposite page Sanderson

summer, you can enjoy your meal al fresco, in the adjoining garden terrace.

Take the elevator up, and you reach Sanderson’s minimalist guestrooms, decorated in pure white. The room in which we stayed was both baroque and modern in design and extravagant and simple at the same time.

The feeling of extravagance came from sheer white drapes cascading from the ceiling and separating the bathroom and entrance space from the main sleeping area. A lack of walls (the drapes provide the sole physical barrier) gives the room a feeling of tranquility and soothing spaciousness.

For further relaxation, head to the first floor, to the hotel’s gym and spa. Open 24 hours to hotel guests, the state-of-the-art gym has treadmills, bikes and weighttraining equipment. Agua Spa next door covers 10,000 square feet and is a hedonist’s dream-come-true.

Diaphanous white curtains adorn the massive space, which encompasses 14 all-white treatment rooms,

meditation beds, a chill-out zone and separate steam rooms for men and women. The rich spa menu includes treatments by Natura Bissé and Eve Lom, as well as a variety of massage treatments.

St. Martins Lane St. Martins Lane is the eternally stylish leading lady of Covent Garden. Set inside a former office building from the ‘60s that Starck transformed into a fashionable urban resort, the place shimmers with color and light. Much like he did for Sanderson, Starck struck an impeccable balance between the modern and the baroque here. Luminescent, yellow-glass revolving doors lead guests to the hotel lobby, a vast, minimalist space strewn here and there with eye-catching pieces, like gold-plated stools, a comfortable chair with ornate edges and its own footrest and a black statue of a reclining man that doubles as a seat.

Much like at Sanderson, St. Martins Lane’s guestrooms are pure, stark (no pun intended) white. What’s 243 A

A journey _ london hotels

Asia de Cuba restaurant at St. Martins Lane

serves adventurous cuisine par excellence, with large portions of such inventive dishes as Scottish salmon ceviche served with avocado helado (ice cream); honey-rum glazed pork belly with plantain maduros; coconut Chilean sea bass with a jumbo lump crab and corn flan; and Cuban coffee crusted rib eye with mandarin orange and gingered sherry butter. Each dish provides a novel experience, delighting the senses with explosions of unfamiliar yet ohso-pleasing flavors.

Having a cocktail with dinner is a must, and signature drinks include the best Mango Mojito you’ll ever have, as well as the extraordinary Havana Cigar Manhattan, made with Bacardi rum and – get this! – cigar syrup.

Back on the lobby level, attractions include GymBox, the largest hotel gym in Europe, offering advanced weight-training and exercise equipment. The popular Light Bar, with its original photographs by Jean Baptiste Mondino and live DJ acts on A 244

Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, is also a hotel mainstay.

Asia de Cuba But St. Martins Lane’s shining star is, hands-down, Asia de Cuba restaurant, also located on the lobby level. Overseen by international restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow, Asia de Cuba offers fusion Asian and Cuban cuisine served family style. (The sister restaurant in New York was famously featured on the final season of Sex and the City, as the glam setting of an intimately sexy dinner between Carrie Bradshaw and her Russian lover Alexsandr Petrovsky.)

First the setting. Also designed

by Starck, Asia de Cuba has its own distinct personality.

Oversized columns are adorned with artistic photos and paintings, while one wall is lined with books and another with verdant potted plants. The cream-colored restaurant is grand, majestic, with enough space between tables to ensure intimacy, while also providing opportunities to mingle with members of the golden crowd that frequents the establishment.

The eclectic décor is reflected in the menu – there’s nothing safe or familiar here and we’re all the better for it. Asia de Cuba

Past perfect, future assured The verdict? Sanderson and St. Martins Lane are as appealing today as when they first opened.

No small feat in a city where hotels can instantly become yesterday’s news. But then again, Morgans Hotel Group has revolutionized the hotel industry with its iconic properties and will continue to do so for years to come.

For more info about the Sanderson, St. Martins Lane and Asia de Cuba, visit www. morganshotelgroup.com

©Morgans Hotel Group

interesting here is that the rooms offer a unique interactive light installation that allows guests to personalize the space by changing the color of the light to match their moods.

Most rooms also offer sweeping views of London, its legendary energy emerging from the streets below.

The food and drink portions are generous, so you’ll be hardpressed to find extra room for dessert. Yet you must. One of the most decadent options is the Bay of Pigs, consisting of a chocolate brownie, vanilla ice cream, chocolate ice cream, a caramelized banana, marshmallows and crispy plantain chips with caramel and chocolate sauce. A glorious end to an exceptional meal.

Aishti.indd 5

23/01/2013 11:49:03

2 , Pa r k av e n u e – D o w n t o w n B e i r u t - t : 0 1 9 8 3 6 6 8 – 0 1 9 8 3 6 6 9

w w w. B a r B a r a B u i . c o m

A journey _ switzerland

Capital of big design

By Robert Landon

Basel is one of Europe’s most attractive small cities

Switzerland has never been at the top of my travel wish list. I’m not much of a skier. I have very little capital to disappear. And I am lukewarm on both tidiness and punctuality.

I once spent a weekend in Geneva and felt bored out of my mind. And after an afternoon layover in Zurich, I’d had my fill of that clean, bank-heavy city. So when a design-obsessed friend invited me to spend a week in Basel – Switzerland’s third city – I needed some convincing. Little did I know how many delightful surprises the city had in store.

At the time, my only association with the city was Art Basel, the world’s most important annual art fair, but we would be missing that by a week. However, I perked up when I was reminded Basel is the hometown of Herzog & De Meuron, the architectural firm that had blown me away with their resurrection of San Francisco’s long-defunct de Young Museum.

A quick Google search of their Basel projects was enough for me to sign on.

Another Basel surprise? No mountains in sight. Instead, the single, defining geographical feature is the River Rhine.

Flowing direct from the Alps, its waters are imminently swimmable, and locals have adopted a fascinating tradition known as “fish-bagging.” This involves stripping to your skivvies and stuffing your clothes in a “fish bag” (a kind of rubber, waterproof rucksack), which then doubles as a flotation device as you bob along the Rhine’s swift current – right through the middle of the city.

Alas, there was no time for such rarefied pleasures, because our Swiss hosts kept us immersed in the city’s third great surprise: an unbelievably fertile design and architecture scene. We browsed through avant-garde shops. We met with scholarly looking craftsmen in bright ateliers. And

©Paul Clemence

Before our hunt for the contemporary, our hosts made sure we dug a little into Basel’s illustrious past. We learned first-hand that Basel harbors Switzerland’s largest intact historical district. Thanks to its millennial

neutrality, it retains pre-industrial charms that, in nearby German towns, have long been bombed to smithereens. Narrow lanes alternate with wide, harmonious squares.

Hotels particuliers marry whitewashed Puritan restraint with subtle Baroque touches. Above it all rise the Gothic spires of Munster, the city’s ruddy-colored 12thcentury cathedral.

A 246

we gawked at a remarkable array of great contemporary architecture. Besides Herzog & de Meuron, the city has, over the last two decades, commissioned works by no less than Frank Gehry, Renzo Piano, Mario Botta, Tadao Ando and Alvaro Siza.

pleasant shock of the new. I hope to return again soon, but next time I will be sure to leave time for some good, old-fashioned fish-bagging.

Indeed, Basel’s aesthetic roots go much deeper, and flower in far more sophisticated ways, than you would ever expect from a provincial capital town of 160,000 souls.

I was determined to find out why this was true. But everyone seemed to have a different answer. Some people cited the dominance of the silk ribbon industry from the 16th to 18th centuries. (The chemistry involved in mixing bright-colored dyes eventually spawned today’s thriving pharmaceuticals industry.)

Several people pointed out that, as a port town hugging two international borders (France and Germany are both literally within walking distance), Basel has always been forced to engage new and foreign ideas.

Indeed in medieval times, Basel boasted the only bridges to cross the Rhine, making it a magnet for trade and exchange. And still today, the city remains Switzerland’s only deep-water port. Finally, Basel, like Renaissance Florence, was never dominated by kings or aristocrats, but rather strong guilds and rich merchant families. Their wealthy descendants still generously (and often anonymously) underwrite arts and culture, with the sober solidarity for which Switzerland is justly celebrated.

Eating and sleeping Volkshaus Basel Redesigned and re-imagined by Herzog & de Meuron, this contemporary twist on a classic brasserie also encompasses a beer garden, sleek bar and award-winning menu. Don’t miss the high-concept washrooms.

12 Rebgasse, tel. 41.61.690.9310, www.volkshaus-basel.ch Pfifflering All organic and local down to the building materials, this scrumptious deli re-engineers

the way tradition-bound Basel dines out.

71 Bottmingerstrasse, tel. 41.61.361.0160, www.pfifferling.ch Der Teufelhof In a pair of grand old buildings, Der Teufelhof is as much a cultural center as an art hotel, with restaurants, a theater and gorgeous rooms featuring works by local designers and artists.

49 Leonhardsgraben, tel. 41.61.261.1010, www.teufelhof.com Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois Basel’s best property is also one of the oldest city hotels in Europe. Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois is set in the center of the old town, right on the River Rhine.

8 Blumenrain, tel. 41.61.260.5007, www.lestroisrois.com

Whatever the confluence of causes, the fruitful results have pushed Basel to the top of my Best Small European Cities list. It is hard to think of another that so thoughtfully integrates the soft charms of the old with the

247 A

A journey _ london house

London way back when

By Grace Banks

A 248

From the outside, the Dennis Severs House looks like a typical Georgian property.

But to step inside this grade II listed building is to experience a testament to real life in London from the 1700s until pre-war Britain.

The house is the creation of Dennis Severs, an American who moved from California to the British capital in the late ‘70s. In 1979 Severs bought the townhouse in London’s then notso-trendy Spitalfields district, and this evolving installation project was born.

Severs acquired the house in a completely derelict state.

When he decided to pull off the temporary panels installed by previous owners, he discovered the original cornicing and features were intact underneath. He was inspired by this revelation, and created a fictional family of Huguenot silk weavers from the 1700s, the Gervais, styling the house as if they were living there.

Severs referred to this method as a “still life drama,” and the attention to detail is certainly quite impressive.

As head curator David Milne explains, “David got rid of all the electricity, lit all the rooms by candlelight and then the world came to it.”

Each room is a complete concoction by Severs. “All the rooms are an indication of life through time, but this is not meant to be a document of history.

It’s about family living throughout the trials and tribulations of Britain,” says Milne.

Visitors feel as though they are almost intruding on the fictional Gervais family. In the drawing

©Dennis Severs House

The Dennis Severs House gives you a peek into British history

room, head of the house Isaac Gervais’ wig hangs off a chair, his glasses and a letter addressed to him lie on the table.

As you travel through the property, the house gets richer, then poorer to reflect the decline of the area through time.

Details within the house change seasonally – peaches and strawberries indicate the arrival of summer, while rotting vegetables are placed in the shabby, poverty stricken rooms of the house and pineapples in the wealthier parts.

This house is particularly appealing after dark. During the night, with nothing but candlelight, you can feel the history of the property through the walls.

249 A

A journey _ london hotel

Coming home

By Marwan Naaman

A revamped Dorset Square Hotel shimmers with British savoir-faire

Then things changed. The Kemps decided to reacquire their historic London hotel and completely renovate the property in Kit Kemp’s distinct style (she’s Firmdale’s design director). The rejuvenated 38-room boutique property reopened, with a new look and new identity, in June 2012.

The Kemps have been credited with setting London’s hotel standards, consistently transforming derelict spaces into distinctive landmarks that have quickly become favorites of local and international stars and celebrities. Iconic hotels that are part of Firmdale A 250

include the Soho, Haymarket and Charlotte Street hotels (all in London) and the Crosby Street Hotel in New York.

“It’s Tim who finds all the sites,” Kit Kemp said of her husband. “He cycles around town on his bicycle and spots empty sites with potential.”

This time around, though, rather than creating a new property, the Kemps decided to revisit the past and revive the hotel that launched their careers.

Set inside a traditional London townhouse overlooking the private gardens of Dorset Square, the re-invented hotel features bold, captivating colors, contrasting fabrics, hand-woven carpets and artworks sourced from various places around the world. Each room is different, yet all bear Kit Kemp’s signature design: walls painted in daring colors like red, green and mustard, headboards made from eccentric fabrics and sensuous pillows strewn on the bed.

The jewel in the Dorset Square’s crown is the

©Firmdale

It’s been almost a year since the Dorset Square Hotel’s reopening. The Marylebone property was the flagship hotel for husbandand-wife team Tim and Kit Kemp, owners of the Firmdale Group, when it first opened in 1985. As the Kemps grew their empire, with six more boutique hotel openings over the next years (five in London and one in New York), the Dorset Square was eventually sold and thus left the Firmdale family.

Marylebone Room. At 35 square meters, this is the largest guestroom in the hotel. More of a suite really, it includes a generous living area, a well-stocked library and a separate bedroom nook. Like all rooms at the hotel, it feels like your own dream living space, a place in which you could spend hours without ever needing to leave.

Kit Kemp has said in previous interviews that her style has evolved over time: “I used to want to create English country-houses in the city, but my tastes changed and became more sophisticated. Recently I have created fresh, modern, yet always English, environments.”

Public spaces at the Dorset Square Hotel include a drawing room with high ceilings and an open fireplace in front of which you can enjoy both late-morning coffee and early evening cocktails. The Potting Shed Bar and Restaurant, set on the lower level, serves English brasserie-style meals, in addition to an elaborate breakfast with à la carte options, as well as a delectable buffet spread.

After visiting the restyled Dorset Square Hotel, it’s easy to understand why the Firmdale formula has worked so well in London and New York, and why it’s likely to remain a top choice for travelers in the know.

For reservations, tel. 44.20.7723.7874, www. firmdalehotels.com 251 A

A journey _ pacific northwest

The San Juan Islands are littleknown American havens

By Leslie Jirsa

The San Juan Islands sit just off the northern tip of Washington State. There are somewhere around 170 of them, depending on how you count, some mere tree-covered rocks, others – specifically three of them – traveler-friendly dream spots only barely off the radar. Here, in the majestic Pacific Northwestern waters of the United States, mountains meet the sea. Pods of orca whales and kayakers drift side by side, bald eagles float overhead, cyclists ferry-hop from island to island and beachgoers dig for clams and find pine needles in the sand.

There is a sweet, very pure “frontier spirit” that spans the history of these islands, and a warm, folksy sentiment exists still, peppered with the modern, green crispness of Seattle.

In some spots, you’ll find funky island culture, in others sweet rustic luxury. Like much of the Pacific Northwest, the San Juans are popular for outdoor activities – hikers,

A 252

bikers, swimmers, runners and kayakers come seeking the hills, valleys and ocean nooks that make the area so unique.

Whale-watching outfits are ubiquitous: there are three local orca pods that make very regular appearances. Biking, especially on lesser-trod Lopez Island, is also a favorite pastime for island locals and visitors – the friendly roads, many cycle shops and bike tours offer up a peaceful, eco-friendly and breathtaking (often literally) way to experience the scenery. Many bikers spend several days island hopping, using only their bikes and the inter-island ferry system to see several of the islands over a short period of time. You can suit your own intensity here – just ditch your stilettos, grab some Keens and get to it.

San Juan San Juan is the second largest of the San

©Robert Demar, Deborah Hopkins, Robin Jacobson

Pacific getaway

Juan Islands, definitely the most happening in terms of deluxe creature comfort, and some say it’s where all the fuss began. Friday Harbor is a bustling town, with waterfront restaurants, cafés, shops, inns, bed and breakfasts, and resorts.

There are so many places to hike, kayak, whale watch, swim, bike or to just sit a spell in an Adirondack chair and ponder the landscape. There are more restaurants, spas, outfitters and high-end lodgings on San Juan than on any of the San Juan Islands, and that’s because it’s the best-trafficked.

Lavendera Day Spa, Coho Restaurant and Cask & Schooner Public House deliver the goods, while other establishments link purpose to product via organic foods, working gardens and eco-tourism.

The Roche Harbor Resort, a bit of a wander from the hum and buzz of Friday Harbor, has won accolades not only for its prime lodging, but also for Afterglow, its resident spa. After a long hike or bike, weary travelers find themselves pampered in lovely island style. The Lakedale Resort, likewise, has upscale accommodations, and real estate agents can assist travelers seeking private accommodations to find the perfect spot.

Orcas Orcas is shaped like a rugged horseshoe, which makes for incredible views, particularly since it offers up the tallest vistas of anywhere on the San Juans. It’s called the “emerald” of the San Juans for its greenery, heights and bucolic landscape. Funky, homespun events like farmers markets and music performances give the main hamlet, Eastsound Village, a great spark, but high-end inns and restaurants give it real credentials by even urban standards. Island roads ramble through magical meadows, farmland, hills, streams and ocean inlets, wind past countless artists’ studios, a few schools, a library and plenty of houses nestled into enviable acreage.

Long established Rosario Resort offers up activities, views and a grand old mansion.

The Inn at Ships Bay offers newer, more modern accommodations with its awardwinning restaurant on the premises.

Doe Bay Resort and Retreat offers rustic accommodations, ranging from yerts to cabins, and a lush on-site organic garden

supplies its waterfront café, and gorgeous views, spa and soaking tubs make for a very peaceful place to lay your head. As well, rental agencies and realtors can help find more secluded spots on Orcas, if you’ve come especially for the solitude.

Once you’re settled in, you’ll go for a hike up Mount Constitution in Moran State Park, because you have to. As you take in the epic vastness of the San Juans, you’ll be hit with your own mortal tininess and vulnerability in seconds – and you’ll surrender. And then you will descend the peak, drive into the village of Eastsound, and have an exquisite farm-totable meal and perfect bottle of wine at Allium overlooking the bay, and think about tomorrow.

253 A

ŠLe St. Sulpice

A journey _ montreal hotel

A 254

In the City of Saints

By Marwan Naaman

Le St. Sulpice is the gracious gateway to Old Montreal

Most visitors to Montreal will tell you that their favorite part of town is Le Vieux-Montréal (or Old Montreal), the historic waterfront district that was once a fortified town named Ville-Marie. Set between the St. Lawrence River and what is now Downtown Montreal, the old sector of the city is easy to love, with its ancient stone buildings that look as if they were transported from France, narrow cobblestone streets and pedestrian-friendly layout.

St. Sulpice is a landmark of Old Montreal, an elegant structure that beckons passersby with its noble stone façade, French windows, iron railings and elegant black awning.

The oldest buildings in Old Montreal date back to the 17th century, when the city was first founded, and as the town continued to grow, newer buildings were constructed, enriching this sector with architectural wonders from each subsequent era.

In keeping with its persona as an exclusive hotel, Le St. Sulpice only offers suites. There is the Superior Suite, featuring a large sitting area and designed to look like a loft; the Deluxe Suite, a one-bedroom layout where the sitting area and bed are in separate rooms (and the bathroom is extra-large); and the Executive Suite, which has either one or two bedrooms and comes with its own private balcony. Each suite has its own fireplace as well as a kitchenette with a Nespresso machine, should you need a shot of caffeine before you set out to explore Old Montreal. Other

One of those magnificent old buildings houses Le St. Sulpice, a stylish hotel set on the street of the same name, located behind Old Montreal’s Notre-Dame Basilica, the glorious gothic cathedral originally completed at the end of the 19th century.

Much like the cathedral itself, Le

Inside, the sprawling lobby is decorated in shades of cream and caramel. A fireplace in the center of the space, is an ideal spot to warm up while enjoying a foamy cappuccino, especially on one of Montreal’s ice-cold, snowy winter nights.

amenities include flat-screen TVs and free Wi-Fi access.

Le St. Sulpice also offers many attractions outside the confines of your suite, including Sinclair, a sleek restaurant and lounge decorated in shades of black and gold. Here, chef Stelio Perombelon prepares contemporary French cuisine using fresh market ingredients.

Sinclair is particularly popular as an after-work cocktail gathering spot. From May to October, when the weather is reasonably warm, the Sinclair Terrasse, a veritable secret garden in Old Montreal, is a great place to dine – or simply to enjoy a glass of rosé wine in lush surroundings.

And should you decide to leave Le St. Sulpice, you can easily explore Old Montreal on foot, walking down to the banks of the St. Lawrence River and imagining what it must have been like in 1642, when French settlers founded the city on this scenic strip of land.

For reservations, tel. 1.877.785.7423, www.lesaintsulpice.com 255 A

A journey _ oman

Arabian oasis

By May Farah

A 256

Spend a few days soaking up the sun at Oman’s Sifawy Hotel

In the 1989 film Field of Dreams, farmer Ray Kinsella (Kevin Costner) hears a voice whisper, “If you build it, he will come,” and he imagines the baseball diamond he will build to persuade the ethereal return of a long-deceased, celebrated ballplayer. Perhaps Samih Sawiris, engineer and CEO of Orascom, has heard the same divination, only multiplied to the limitless degree, so that if he builds it, they will come. In this instance, the “it” refers not to a simple baseball diamond, but whole towns conceived around luxury, comfort and easy living.

And in each of the resort towns Orascom has developed so far – three in Egypt and one each in Jordan, the United Arab Emirates and the Swiss Alps – the people have come, in

infinite numbers, whether to live or vacation.

Sawiris is following that success in Oman, with two major ongoing projects, one in the far south (Salalah Beach), and one just south from the capital. An hour’s drive from Muscat, and tucked in between the sandy white beaches and turquoise blue waters of the Gulf of Oman and the majestic Hajjar mountains, the latest Sawiris vision is emerging from the rubble: Jebel Sifah, a resort town that will ultimately occupy a space of 6.2 million square meters, making it the most extensive development in Oman.

When the project is complete, in about 10 years’ time, it will consist of five five-star hotels, resorts and spas (including The

257 A

A journey _ oman

The first phase of Jebel Sifah is now complete, with the opening of the Sifawy Boutique Hotel in Marina Town – a series of low-rise apartment buildings – and the marina itself, about one year ago.

Italian architect Alfredo Freda, who has worked with Sawiris on his previous projects, designed the three-story off-white buildings with dark brown wood trimmings – and strategic A 258

tanning bed, look out over the hotel’s courtyard, with its large infinity pool, the hotel’s private beach and the Gulf of Oman beyond.

“This is his vision,” Daniel Fanselow, general manager of the Sifawy Boutique Hotel says, “to respect Omani elements and combine them with classic Middle Eastern design.”

The folks at Sifawy can recommend and organize a diverse menu of excursions, whether it’s a picnic on a private beach in close-by Bandar Khairan, a desert hike through the mountains or an early morning dolphin-watching excursion, where you’ll see hundreds of dolphins, some swimming timidly, others jumping more boldly, all wonderfully adorable.

At the Sifawy Boutique Hotel, you immediately recognize the strong essence of traditional Oman, reflected everywhere in the hotel’s interiors – the reception area, the 55 guestrooms and suites, and the Al Sabla restaurant.

The interior decorator, the architect’s daughter, Elizabeta Freda, used rich and vibrant colors, like shades of tan with sprinkles of pink and green in the guestrooms, to create a feeling of comfort and style. The spacious balconies, complete with an oversized

If you’re craving an ideal spot for a little rest and relaxation, but one immersed in a picturesque destination that also boasts an abundance of activities, Jebel Sifah is the ideal getaway.

For reservations, tel. 968.247.49111, www.sifawyhotel.com

©Sifawy

Four Seasons, Hotel Missoni and Banyan Tree Hotels & Resorts), an 18-hole PGA golf course, a 100-berth inland Marina, a Marina Town with a boutique hotel, luxury apartments and villas of different sizes and stores, restaurants and cafés.

splashes of bold colors here and there – of the marina apartments and hotel with Omani architecture in mind, something that Sawiris insisted upon.

A journey _ beirut

The Port District is on its way to becoming the hippest area in Beirut

Style’s port of call

By MacKenzie Lewis

When investors took a risk on a decaying port district, London’s Canary Wharf went from urban obscurity to financial epicenter.

Following their example, a handful of Lebanese designers are hedging their bets that they can breathe life back into Beirut’s own rundown Port District.

It didn’t take much for Chekerdjian to turn Kayrouz onto the idea of making the Beirut Port District their base. The pair set their sights on an abandoned metal warehouse, a family business that had shuttered with the war, never to reopen; the owner gladly gave them the keys. The space was too big for the two of them, so they approached friend Johnny Farah, designer and IF boutique owner, about taking over another third. He shared their intuition says Chekerdjian: “He said, ‘I’ve been dreaming of this neighborhood for years!’” In December 2010, Maison Rabih

©Ieva Saudargaite

In 2010, designers Karen Chekerdjian and Rabih Kayrouz were struggling to find homes for their first Beirut boutiques. “I was looking for a place that looked like my work, my personality,” says Chekerdjian, a furniture and product designer, “but nothing fit my way of thinking.” Before looking for a shopfront, she had set up her studio in a neglected district facing the port. The area was detached from trendier neighborhoods – Gemmayze to the south and Downtown Beirut to the west – by main roads. “I loved

that this felt like the old Beirut,” she explains of a city corner preserved by its isolation.

“The port gives this feeling of opportunity, and it attracted this mixture of social categories – the workers, foreigners from the harbor, prostitutes…”

A 260

Kayrouz, Karen Chekerdjian and IF opened in the neighborhood much of Beirut forgot.

“We thought we were right about the area, but that it would take time,” says Chekerdjian about its slow revival. Lux café opened soon after, and last summer The Oddfish boutique moved nearby. Awan Tea Shop arrived in the second wave, after an eviction from its Ashrafieh location, which had unknowingly been scheduled for demolition by its owners.

they’d be interested.” Although a residential building is now under construction across from her boutique, Chekerdjian says the area’s lack of land will protect its original character; there’s simply no room for big businesses to destroy its charm. Local boutiques, on the other hand, are just adding another flavor to the melting pot. “Even if our teas or IF’s clothes are not Lebanese,” Fayad adds, “somehow this area is about Lebanese design.”

This page Views of the Karen Chekerdjian Store, The Oddfish boutique and Lux restaurant Opposite page Glimpses of IF boutique (top left), Maison Rabih Kayrouz (bottom left) and Awan Tea Shop

Co-founder Nicole Fayad admits the tea shop struggled in Ashrafieh, and that they’d considered closing for good. They decided instead to take a chance on the Beirut Port District, settling on a side of the metal warehouse that was once a sailors’ tavern.

“Johnny, Karen, Rabih and Lux gave design cachet to the area, and we knew they would attract people with taste,” Fayad says. So far, so good, she adds, in part because of its visibility from the highway; she laughs when describing the motley crew of characters who sometimes peer through the front window.

When asked if she thinks the Beirut Port District will go the way of London’s Canary Wharf or New York’s Meatpacking District, with office buildings, nightclubs and mass retailers, Fayad shakes her head: “I don’t think

261 A

A last _ word

Britain’s Lebanon adventurer

By Sabina Llewellyn-Davies

Lady Hester Stanhope’s story is legendary: a 19th-century femme fatale whose life was filled with violence, decadence and lots of sex.

Dubbed the Queen of the East, this English adventurer traveled throughout the Middle East until she met her end in the remote Lebanese mountain village of Joun, with her remains interred at the summer residence of the British ambassador to Lebanon.

When the property was put up for sale in 2004, a suitable spot had to be found for her remains: they were cremated, and her ashes were then scattered under the olives trees growing on the ruins of her Joun home in the presence of William Stanhope, Viscount Petersham, HMA James Watt and Roger Jawesh, mayor of Joun.

“For me Lady Hester was special because of her absolute refusal to be cowed by the conventions of her time,” says Lorna Gibb, author of the biographical epic Lady Hester: Queen of the East. “Rather than accept the limitations of her life in London, she left, and when abroad constructed an alternate reality for herself, one where she could enjoy the freedoms she longed for.”

Born in 1776 in Kent, Lady Hester led a favored life as the daughter of the wealthy Lord Charles, third Earl of Stanhope.

However, her fortunes changed when her father died, and at the age of 27 she moved to London to become the official hostess of her uncle, William Pitt, prime minister of England.

She became renowned for her beauty and lively conversation, but after Pitt’s death six years later she decided to leave all behind and sail to Greece in search of adventure.

After traveling through Greece, Egypt and Syria, she settled in Joun, South Lebanon, in 1836. Her residence became known as Dar el Sitt, and here she defied all conventions with her shaved head, male garb and young lovers. But, she also wielded incredible political power over local chieftains and even formed her own militia. She gave sanctuary to refugees from Druze inter-clan fighting and was sought out by politicians and travelers who went out of their way to meet her.

However, her erratic spending habits led her into debt, and she soon became a penniless recluse, with her servants looting her possessions and leaving her to meet her end in squalor.

The eccentric Lady Hester was the last of Britain’s female intrepid travelers. She lived and went out in true style.

A 262

263 A

A last _ word

It isn’t easy being English

By Warren Singh-Bartlett

It isn’t easy being English. Decaying infrastructure, unaffordable rents, (and overpriced everything else) and fairly rubbish weather all make life on the Sceptr’d Isle a misery, at times. Add to this England’s abiding conservatism (both capital and lower-case varieties), our delight in building you up just to chop you down and the joy of knowing your life is captured on camera because – smile!

– England is the most heavily surveilled country in Europe, and you understand why 5.5 million of my compatriots choose to live permanently abroad.

Of course, that’s not the whole story.

Breathtakingly beautiful, culturally and

ethnically diverse and (now that we’ve eradicated the culinary austerity we inherited from the Victorians) purveyors of fine food, for a nation of just 62-odd million, Britain punches far above its weight.

A century ago, this was because perfidious Albion ruled a quarter of the world, making little England the center of the largest empire in history, and English the global lingua franca. Today it’s because despite the negatives, Britain is one of the most creative countries on earth.

Wait. Conservative and creative? Doesn’t creativity require an unfettered spirit? We have plenty of those too. Before you shout

“foul,” here’s my theory why. England is so crushingly conservative, its populace so oppressed and its security forces so everpresent, that as an English(wo)man, you are faced with only three courses in life: conformism, alcoholism or rebellion. For ease, most choose one (or both) of the first two options.

But while rebellion might seem the most difficult route, in some ways, it isn’t. You see, despite our reputation for being too tightly laced, we’ve always had a weakness for eccentrics. In some ways, that appreciation is cultural. Our private schools are called “public,” and our language is full of words that aren’t pronounced the way they’re spelled – lieutenant, cough, subtle – and place names that sound ridiculous – Great Cockup, Loose Bottom or Sandy Balls, anyone?

And so it continues. Today’s eccentrics form Cloud Appreciation Societies and publish magazines that extol, like the Idler, the pleasure of doing absolutely nothing. They pour themselves into writing, advertising, music, architecture, object and fashion design. Even banking.

Because of them and all that energy that otherwise has nowhere else to go, today’s England is a country whose cultural weight increases, even as its political clout subsides. Hmmm. Maybe being English isn’t so bad, after all.

A 264

©Mélanie Dagher

So when Lord Rothschild chose zebras to draw his carriage, we applauded. When David Bowie flounced around London in makeup and scarlet hair, we swooned.

When the Eurythmics were banned on MTV until Annie Lennox “proved” she wasn’t a transvestite, we smiled knowingly and rolled our eyes. Americans.

infiniti JX 23x30.indd 1

3/11/13 11:52 AM

www.chaneln5.com SP_230x300_AISHTI_N5_GUIDO_MO.indd 1

27/02/13 12:13