PMU international magazine #4 by Jenny Mashkova

UNIQUE INDIVIDUAL AND GROUP PROGRAMS BY ALINA SOLOVEVA EVERYTHING ABOUT PERMANENT MAKEUP: FROM BASICS TO ADVANCED LEVEL TEL. +79165161111, www.alinasoloveva.com

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

SOON! NEW! PROFESSIONAL EDUCATION PROGRAMS ON DVD FROM ONE OF THE BEST ARTISTS IN THE INDUSTRY

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

N¹5

www.rigenera-microneedling.it

2017

Vi va ! a i l a It a Vi v a! r e n e Rig

• • • • 4

THEORY • NOVELTY • PERSON EQUIPMENT & PIGMENTS • BUSINESS EXPERT • MASTER CLASS GALLERY OF ARTISTS • MEDICINE

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

UNIQUE ADVERTISING CAPABILITIES

INTERNATIONAL PMU STARS

MORE USEFUL INFORMATION FOR PMU ARTISTS JOIN US AND MAKE YOURSELF EVEN MORE FAMOUS

ORDER ALL OF OUR PREVIOUS ISSUES

DOWNLOADABLE DIGITAL VERSIONS OF OUR MAGAZINES

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

CONTENTS THEORY 6 ...... ROLE OF AGE-RELATED CHANGES IN MICROPIGMENTATION. 8 ...... CLIENT’S APPEARANCE: CRITERIA OF OBJECTIVE EVALUATION.

14 82

NOVELTY 12 ...... VALENTINA TECCHIO. RIGENERA. 52 ...... MARIANNTHY NICOLAOU. MEMBRANE MICROPIGMENTATION™. PERSON 14 ...... ANNA ZABOLOTNAYA. TRICKS OF MY TRADE. PIGMENTS 22 ...... AMIEA. DVD COMMENTARY 28 ...... BLESSED BROWS TECHNIQUE BY TATIANA SHUBINA. EXPERT

ALL ISSUES OF PMU INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE CAN BE ORDERED ON W W W.PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

32 ...... VICTORIA AMMOSCATO. ALL ABOUT MICRONEEDLING. 38 ...... LANETTE MARIE SCHERR. THE ART OF SUCCESSFUL PARAMEDICAL AND SCAR CAMOUFLAGE PROCEDURES. 47 ...... SONIA ANDERSON. BLACK SKIN AND PERMANENT MAKEUP.

BUSINESS 58 ...... VEERA GORLATOVA. BUSINESS PROCESS AUTOMATION. 64 ...... ANASTASIA KHARINA. THE POWER OF SOCIAL MEDIA.

ALL ISSUES OF PMU INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE CAN BE ORDERED ON W W W.PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

MASTER CLASS

NO2 (5)

71 ...... MILENA KACAVENDA. FEATHER STYLE TECHNIQUE.

PUBLISHER

74 ...... DARINA SALATHOVA.

HEAD OF PMU INTERNATIONAL PROJECT Natalya Zubova

LUSCIOUS LIPS.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DESIGN / PROOF

GALLERY OF ARTISTS 78 ...... ANNA LAKSTIGALA 80 ...... VIKKI CHAN 82 ...... SIBINA MURVAT ROUGHTON 84 ...... ALEXANDER SIVAK

Alina Soloveva

Maxim Granko pmuinter@gmail.com Evgenia Mashkova

AUTHORS Olga Zalogina, Irina Kravchenko, Maud Ravier, Olga Kravchenko, Suze Steyl. TRANSLATOR / PROOFREADER Yana Rasmussen, Maxim Granko DVD Tatiana Shubina PMU INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE Marketing Department: 1st Tverskoy-Yamskoy Lane., bld.16, 125047 Moscow, Russia Moscow office: +7 (965) 144 40 49 (11 a.m. – 19 p.m.) pmuinter@gmail.com skype: pmu_international__magazine

MEDICINE 86 ...... TO TREAT OR NOT TO TREAT: DIFFERENT SCAR TYPES. 89 ...... TRACEY SIMPSON. SCAR CAMOUFLAGE: A TREATMENT THAT GOES MORE THAN SKIN DEEP

THE PMU INTERNATIONAL MAGAZINE, #5(2)/2017. THE FOUNDER, THE PUBLISHER AND THE EDITOR — LTD. «SPHINX». CERTIFICATE OF REGISTRATION OF MASS MEDIA PE — NO. FS 77-69520 OF 02/05/2017. THE ARTICLES, COLUMNS, RATINGS AND OTHER EDITORIAL PAGES OF THE MAGAZINE ARE THE BACKGROUND INFORMATION AND ANALYTICAL MATERIALS. FULL OR PARTIAL REPRODUCTION OF THE ARTICLES AND OTHER RESULTS OF INTELLECTUAL ACTIVITIES WITHOUT THE CONSENT OF PMU INTERNATIONAL IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. PMU INTERNATIONAL IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR SUBMITTED MATERIALS. THE EDITORIAL OPINION MAY NOT REFLECT THE VIEWS OF THE AUTHORS. PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

THEORY

ROLE OF AGERELATED CHANGES IN MICROPIGMENTATION In order to understand how to perform micropigmentation treatments on aging and old skin, what dangers we should be aware of and what side effects we may face, we need to first understand what happens with the skin as it ages. In this article, we will discuss age changes in the dermis and the epidermis.

THE DERMIS The dermis is the middle skin layer lying under the epidermis. It contains a number of important components like blood vessels, hair follicles and sebaceous glands. As a person ages, the number of dermal blood vessels, as has been recently discovered, decreases significantly as does, consequently, dermal blood supply. The skin of a fetus (on about week 20-40 of pregnancy) contains approximately 150 blood vessels per square millimeter, yet by the age of 60 a person loses about half of their dermal capillaries. Apparently, they just stop functioning. This devascularisation in the dermis is now seen as the primary reason for the significant reduction in the number of fibroblasts in the dermis, which accounts for what we know as skin aging. A study conducted by the scientists of Chuvash State University showed that fetal skin contains approximately 8,000 fibroblasts per square millimeter, yet their amount drops significantly right after the child is born to 4,000 cells per square millimeter. People older than 25 have no more than 2,500 fibroblasts per square millimeter. As we age, both the number of fibroblasts subject to division and the speed of division decrease, therefore keeping the total amount of fibroblasts low. Dermal fibroblasts are cells in the dermal layer of skin that form connective tissue and thus have two main functions. Firstly, they produce special proteins that participate in the formation of extracellular matrix. The cells of the epidermal layer get “attached” to this matrix and hold together. This is one downside of the decrease in fibroblasts as we age: the skin does not look as firm and instead becomes rather loose. Secondly, fibroblasts play a crucial role in the process of cutaneous wound healing. As soon as it appears, these

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

cells migrate to the wound where they produce protein molecules that form a wound extracellular matrix to properly repair a cutaneous wound. Here it is important for a permanent makeup artist to note that a decrease in the number of fibroblasts can result in failure of the healing process, including after a micropigmentation treatment. In addition, the remaining dermal blood vessels become more fragile with age. This can lead to bruising and excessive bleeding in the process of micropigmentation.

THE EPIDERMIS We say that a leopard cannot change its spots, yet it would if they were on its epidermis. This skin layer is in a constant, never-ending process of change with new cells migrating upwards and old cells sloughing off. As a person ages, all processes in the body slow down, and epidermis renewal is not an exception. The process of skin cells migration from the dermis to the surface becomes slower as well as the process of peeling off, contributing to the skin appearing uneven, dull and dry. However, the quantity of epidermal cells does not decrease. Instead, they become flatter in the process of keratinization, i.e. when the cell loses its nucleus and water and becomes “dead”. It is in the process of cell breakdown that the epidermal cell receives lipids, which are produced from the components the cell had before keratinization. Consequently, as the process of keratinization slows down with age, fewer lipids are produced, making the epidermis dryer and thinner. The lipids surrounding epidermal cells protect the skin from aggressive environments. The loss of these lipids causes increased skin sensitivity. This is another important factor to consider when performing a micropigmentation treatment. Among other components, the epidermis contains melanocytes — cells that give color to our skin. They are situated in the bottom (basal) layer of the epidermis and their amount decreases with age, which can trigger hypopigmentation. The remaining melanocytes trying to keep skin color in balance become larger. This leads to appearance of large dark color spots called age spots. It

SKIN AGING Changes in the structure of the skin The stratum corneum Melanocytes Ep

ide

D er m

a Loss of water

Young skin

Mature skin

is essential to note that epidermal damage occurring in the process of micropigmentation can worsen the condition of hyperpigmentation.

is difficult for the artist to control the depth of needle insertion, so it can go through the eyelid and some pigment will be injected in the cornea.

POSSIBLE COMPLICATIONS

WHAT CAN BE DONE?

Although micropigmentation is widely used in aging and elderly patients, there are some risks and complications stemming from the aforementioned changes in the skin structure as well as some other factors. Elderly patients are more at risk for adverse effects including scarring (due to some peculiarity of fibroblasts functioning), allergic contact dermatitis, infections, inflammation, hypo- and hyperpigmentation, hyperphotosensitivity, etc. One of the common complications of permanent makeup on old skin is pigment migration. Occurring due to rough skin structure, it can likely make the outline of the tattoo blurred, with irregular contours. It can also lead to unwanted pigmentation in the border areas. The most susceptible areas to pigment migration are eyelids. In patients with malar bags, hypertrophy and reduced elasticity of the upper eyelid skin and muscles, appearing because of aging, lymphatic ducts in periorbital areas become wider. Consequently, pigment particles from the lash line can easily migrate with the lymphatic flow to other parts of the eyelid and such areas as cheekbones and lateral nose. Due to thinness of the epidermis in the eyelid, especially in elderly patients, it

As much as we would all want to, one cannot stop aging. Disregarding or overlooking structural age-related skin changes can not only result in poor aesthetics of the micropigmentation treatment, but also have a huge negative impact on the patientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s health. An artist should be controlling the depth of pigment application since the epidermis in aging and elderly patients is thinner than in younger ones. At the same time, an artist should preferably use softer application techniques to avoid excessive bleeding and bruising and prescribe proper healing products as well as schedule touch-up appointments where thorough examination of the micropigmentation treatment would be performed. It is important that the patient follows the prescribed routine religiously for better healing. It is also essential to prescribe sunscreen some time after the treatment since old skin is prone to hyperphotosensitivity. Bearing in mind all peculiarities of the aging and old skin as well as taking measures to reduce the risks for the patients, an artist is likely to perform a successful permanent makeup procedure that will keep the patientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beauty preserved for several more years. PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

THEORY

CLIENT’S APPEARANCE: CRITERIA OF OBJECTIVE EVALUATION The artist of permanent makeup needs an impeccable taste, but relying entirely on a flair is not worth it. The professional should determine the client’s data according to a number of criteria and proceeding from them,

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

predict how the pigment will behave, and how natural it will look. Objective evaluation is very important – it helps to avoid mistakes such as unwanted shades, blurry lines and even scars.

So, at the beginning of work it is necessary to estimate appearance of the client on several points: – Skin tone. – Skin type. – The skin’s tendency to scarring. – Facial shape and features. – Psycho-emotional status (facial expressions, gestures). – The image as a whole (style, makeup, clothes).

DETERMINATION OF SKIN TONE The first thing that a pmu artist should pay attention to is the client’s skin tone. It depends on which pigment will be used in the work and whether the color will eventually go into an unwanted red or blue tint. The first factor that affects the color of the skin is melanin. The yellow shade of the skin depends on its concentration. The second factor is the circulatory system. If the vessels are located close to the surface of the skin, then it acquires a pink palate, if deep – green, gray or blue. You can divide all skin tones into warm and cold. This is a very crude classification, but it helps explain

the principle of pigment selection. We are used to the fact that in decorative makeup cosmetics of cold shades are chosen to match the cold tone of the skin, and warm ones to match the “warm” skin. But in permanent makeup everything is the opposite. Cold pigment applied to the cold tone of the skin will eventually turn blue, and the warm color on the warm skin tone will turn red. Experienced artists mix the pigment, achieving the desired warm shade while working with a cold type of appearance of the client and vice versa. The dye doesn’t get mixed “by eye” – it is measured with mathematical precision according to a certain scheme. To use the right proportions, the artist must determine the skin tone and melanin concentration. This is helped by special tools, of which the Fitzpatrick digital scale (based on data on how the skin reacts to ultraviolet rays) and the Lushan scale (applied to the inside of the forearm, which usually does not tan), are the most common.

SKIN TYPE The skin type affects the final result of permanent makeup and its duration.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Oily skin is porous, usually thick, so it requires a deep pigment injection. Artists often recommend avoiding hair stroke technique while working on such skin, because it is difficult to keep the paint and the lines can get blurry. In this case, to achieve the maximum natural effect many professionals recommend to using shading technique.

Aging skin is usually dry, but dense. Any technique can be applied to the owners of soft skin. For women with coarse skin, however, it is often recommended to make more â&#x20AC;&#x153;superficialâ&#x20AC;? permanent makeup, like soft shading.

Dry skin, thin with almost invisible pores, on the contrary, grasps the pigment very quickly. While working with such skin, it is recommended to use hair stroke and shading techniques very subtly, not going too deep. Otherwise, the pigment will fade away non-equally, for too long or will leave behind scar marks.

Keloid is a proliferation of connective tissue due to a malfunction of the fibroblasts. It looks like a formation protruding above the surface of the skin, having a pink color and repeating the outline of the wound. The propensity to the appearance of such scars is inherited; mostly people of 18-25 years old are in the risk zone.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

THE TENDENCY TO FORM KELOIDS

Keloid scar can occur with any damage to the skin, including pmu. Before starting to work, the artist should ask the client about the propensity for keloids and, if possible, examine the scars existing on the face or body.

SHAPES AND FACIAL FEATURES Remember that the client is individual: everyone has a different eye shape, the natural shape of the eyebrows and lips. Working on a single template in the sphere of permanent tattooing is a huge mistake. Even if the client has come for “fashionable” eyebrows, you should pick up a sketch which will be suitable for this particular case. For example, with a round shape of the face it is recommended to pick the eyebrows with a high rise; with a rectangular shape of the face – straight eyebrows; triangular – rounded.The same with the lips and eyeliner. The length, width and direction of the lines should be suitable for the client; emphasize advantages and hide drawbacks.

PSYCHO-EMOTIONAL STATUS OF THE CLIENT Everyone has his own facial expressions and gestures. Watch the client, especially if his/her facial expression is active. Note if a woman smiles with the corners of her mouth looking downwards, her eyes wrinkled, her brows frowned. Over time, such habits

can provoke the appearance of facial wrinkles, which means that permanent makeup should be carried out taking into account these features. Returning to the above examples, you can visually raise the corners of the lips; instead of long arrows offer a lightweight eyeliner; make the eyebrows soft and, if possible, light – so that the face does not seem angry.

CUSTOMER'S IMAGE AS A WHOLE In addition to natural data and behavioral characteristics, the artist must pay attention to the client’s image in general: clothes, accessories, hair and makeup. This will help to give the client a harmonious appearance that will not clash with the inner nature. A modest girl who adheres to the natural style is unlikely to be comfortable with the graphical arrows on her eyelids or scarlet lips. And an extravagant lady with a hot temperament will certainly be pleased with the permanent makeup emphasizing her vivid personality. In conclusion, it should be noted that the system of assessing the appearance of the client for each artist should be honed to perfection. We mentioned only the main points that should be taken into account before starting a work. Each artist, based on his/her experience, adds criteria that help him to achieve the perfect result. PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

VIVA ITALIA! VIVA RIGENERA! CHOOSE TO SEE YOUR SKIN IMPROVING DAY BY DAY!

We’ve all been in the situation when sometimes, no matter how much money has been spent on a beauty product, it still doesn’t work. Despite the fact that the cream is used regularly, the mirror ruthlessly shows that the wrinkles do not disappear – vice versa, they become more pronounced! The latest achievements of the cosmetic industry are not some sort of fiction created by marketologists; in fact, modern beauty products contain innovative ingredients which can actually do wonders. So why then do they sometimes just not work? The main reason is the characteristics of the skin. Active substances that should help preserve the youth and beauty of the skin cannot pass through the epidermal barrier, and, therefore, are not able to penetrate into the deep layers of the dermis. Here is the solution: RIGENERA! With the help of a derma roller, which makes microscopic channels in the skin (so-called micro-damages), RIGENERA activates the fibroblast cells and stimulates the process of collagen production; thus, the procedures with the help of a derma roller have a very quick and immediately noticeable anti-aging effect. The RIGENERA line of products combines the benefits of cosmetology and microneedling. RIGENERA products are developed in modern laboratories; the process of development is based on the latest achievements of cosmetology. Active ingredients, in combination with the ability of microneedling to stimulate the process of natural rejuvenation, are able to correct various skin defects.  RIGENERA products do not contain silicones, parabens or mineral oils.  RIGENERA is suitable for procedures in beauty salons as well as for home care.  The RIGENERA line contains all the necessary products for a fullfledged complex facial care.

THE RIGENERA PRODUCTS: • • • • • • • • Valentina Tecchio has been successfully performing permanent makeup procedures since 2004. Believing that the overall cosmetic care in complex with permanent makeup can create wonders, she has later established beauty centers in Italy and created her own brand Rigenera.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Remove wrinkles or make them less visible Remove post-acne scars Brighten pigment spots and make them less noticeable Make stretch marks less visible Remove surgical scars Help to get rid of cellulite Narrow enlarged pores Brighten and even the skin tone

THE RIGENERA LINE 0.1 PURIFICATION A cleanser with neutral pH contains extracts of calendula, chamomile and oats. It helps to remove dirt and makeup without causing irritation or allergic reactions. 0.2 HYALURONIC ACID This moisturizing and regenerating serum is based on hyaluronic acid which is one of the main components of the connective tissue of the skin. Hyaluronic acid (together with collagen and elastin) plays an important role in the way

the skin looks, feels, and functions. An important capacity of hyaluronic acid is to bind and retain a large number of water molecules, providing moisture to the skin. 0.3 REPAIRING CREAM The active substances of the cream stimulate the process of cellular regeneration and have an anti-aging effect. The cream contains Shea butter, tannin, sunflower seed oil (Helianthus Annuus seed oil), simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, and grape seed (vitis vinifera) extract. The complex of ingredients in this cosmetic product nourishes and moisturizes the skin; it also has an antioxidant effect. 0.4 SUN PROTECTIVE FLUID This fluid with SPF is aimed to protect the skin from the sun. 0.5 AZELAIC ACID The serum is designed for spot depigmentation; it has an inhibitory effect of melanogenesis. Azelaic acid has a pronounced antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and keratolytic effect; it reduces pigmentation and is able to remove dark pigment spots. It is non-toxic and well tolerated by most patients. The composition of the cosmetic product also includes arbutin, a component which helps to reduce pigmentation of various origins, including age spots, melasma, etc. 0.6 SOOTHING MASK WITH ALOE AND KARITE Aloe juice soothes and moisturizes the skin; it also has an antifungal and wound-healing effect. Karite oil nourishes, moisturizes, and softens the skin, helps to restore its elasticity and protective barrier. This oil is also known for its anti-aging effect. 0.7 ANTI-INFLAMMATORY CREAM This soothing cream works against inflammation and redness; it helps to get rid of water retention and can also be used in cases of edema. It is recommended that the soothing cream is used at the end of the procedure.

RECOMMENDATIONS FOR THE USE OF RIGENERA: 1. Cleansing the face with Rigenera 0.1. 2. Derma roller therapy. The device should be rolled back and forth in four directions: horizontal, vertical, diagonal to the left and diagonal to the right; excessive redness or bleeding should be avoided. The applied pressure depends on the degree of skin imperfections, and normally is light or moderate. 3. After the derma roller therapy, the basic product should be applied on the skin. It can be Rigenera 0.2 or Rigenera 0.3, depending on the skin imperfection that is to be removed. 4. The Rigenera 0.6 mask should be applied and left on the skin for 12 to 20 minutes. 5. After the mask has been removed, the anti-inflammatory Rigenera 0.7 or restorative Rigenera 0.3 cream should be applied as the final step of the procedure.

www.rigenera-microneedling.it PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

PERSON

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

ANNA ZABOLOTNAYA TRICKS OF MY TRADE

Anna is a permanent makeup artist and the head of the international permanent makeup academy “Biotek – Russia”. — Permanent makeup of eyebrows is considered the most popular procedure in the area of microblading. Do you agree with that? Is it still the same nowadays? Are there any changes in clients’ preferences regarding colors, shapes or techniques? — With regards to the popularity of permanent makeup of eyebrows, I can say that nothing has changed, and it is still really the most popular procedure. On one hand, the procedure is considered rather simple. On the other hand, eyebrows are traditionally quite a problematic area for many clients. It is always a good idea to at least offer a procedure of permanent makeup of eyebrows, regardless of what the original purpose of the client’s visit was. Eyebrows can be made thicker or brighter, and the shape can be improved, too. They can also be made wider, especially considering the fact that wide eyebrows can make the face look much younger. As for various techniques of permanent makeup of eyebrows, nowadays there are a lot of them: a gradient technique, feathering, spraying, etc. Frankly speaking, though, it is just a way to attract more customers. Basically, there are only two techniques: the shading technique (when the pigment is covering the area of eyebrows creating a dense or more or less transparent layer of color) and the hair stroke technique. Personally, I prefer the hair stroke technique, despite the fact that it can be very

complicated if you are trying to be creative drawing hair strokes with the use of various color shades; this, without doubt, is a much more difficult task than just covering the area of eyebrows with a layer of pigment. Some artists believe that the hair stroke technique is not suitable for every skin type. Perhaps, that can be true; however, my personal experience shows that it is not a question of a skin type per se but concerns wrong types of needles as well as incorrectly selected pigments. Each type of pigment is designed for a specific purpose; in order to create fine hair strokes, it is necessary to use a pigment which does not flow. The type of needles plays a very big role, too. If the client is a woman with really thin natural hair strokes, then the correct choice of the needle would the thinnest one — №1. However, if the client is a man, then it is necessary to choose a thicker needle — for example, №3. With regards to the technique, it is not the client who is going to choose it but the artist. For example, if a client,who already has really bright permanent makeup applied, is asking for the spraying technique, it is clear to any artist that the client does not understand the term correctly. The very word spraying says that this is something semitransparent. This is the technique that tattoo artists use when they draw clouds. Therefore, if this technique is used to cover bright colors of existing permanent makeup, the result will be hardly noticeable even under a microscope. When dealing with such clients, it is necessary to explain to them that the procedure will have zero effect; normally, after the explanation the client changes his\her mind.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

— What would you say about clients’ requests nowadays if you were to analyze them?

— Can you tell us about the preferences of your male clients?

— Our clients realize that makeup they are going to get applied is not going to last for just a day since it is permanent. By and large, each client has his/her own requests; however, most of my customers ask for their eyebrows to be made slightly wider (not too much, though). None of my clients ask me to make their eyebrows black and really thick — the so-called tribal style. It is very rare now when people want to have thin eyebrows, which is completely understandable: they don’t look very attractive and make the face look older; besides, thin eyebrows can be lost on the face. In any case, of course, it is essential to look at the face as a whole; the eyebrows should be in harmony with all the facial features, especially the eyes and lips; they need to reflect the client’s character, style, and so on. It is important to emphasize all the beautiful features on the face, whereas the flaws (if any) should not be noticeable at all. However, the imperfections should not be covered with some bright colors — that will draw attention to them even more; they should only be somehow disguised. Naturally, for someone lips as facial features might be much more important than eyebrows. Nevertheless, I personally believe that nicely done eyebrows can make women feel more confident, and even improve their life in general.

— If we talk about technical aspects, then I would say the work is pretty much the same. The main difference is that with a woman it is absolutely ok to discuss the details of the forthcoming procedure, and maybe even politely disagree on something, suggest your ideas, and so on; in the case of a man, as a rule, there will be no discussion. It is not because men are very stubborn or not ready to discuss things — not at all; it’s just the fact that men don’t come to a permanent makeup artist with a desire to make their lips brighter, or something like that. The main problem men have is scars on various places — the lips, the eyebrows, etc. - which need to be camouflaged. You know, guys like to fight, and very often it results in unattractive scars which a lot of men would like to remove or at least disguise. Having said that, I must admit that now there are more and more men who come exactly to have permanent makeup procedures. Usually they are some celebrities, actors, or media people, the ones who often go on stage or appear on TV. They are used to having makeup applied on their faces. These people understand that it is great to have a nice complexion, bright eyes, etc. and it is absolutely normal; the only thing is that this makeup should not look too artificial.

— What if the client’s and the artist’s opinions are totally different? — First of all, I believe that the client is always right. They come specif ically to you because they trust you. Therefore, debating or arguing with them, in my opinion, would be absolutely inappropriate. I can always suggest some ideas and offer different options, though. If I see that the client is way off base and what he/she wants is going to look not very attractive (for example, very high positioned eyebrows or the ones that are too long), and there is nothing else I can say in order to make my client change his/her mind, I try to put them off by talking about some technical difficulties. Here is an example: the human skull does not have a perfectly symmetrical shape, and even if in principle long eyeliner arrows would look not bad on my client’s eyes, still, they would not look as good as the client wants due to the natural asymmetry of the head. Having said all that, I always remember to tell my client that the idea in itself is great, but, unfortunately, rather difficult to implement. The main thing is to let the clients know that their opinion is very important to the artist and that, in fact, we are here to make their dreams come true by trying to implement their ideas; at the end of the day, the client is the one who decides on the style.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

In addition to the scar camouflage, it is possible to even out the skin. There is a new technique called sculpting; with the use of this technique it is possible to make some features look more pronounced, while the others can be disguised. This is not an easy technique to learn; it is recommended to attend special courses devoted to the sculpting technique with all the nuances and specifics explained, shown and then practiced. Moreover, this technique requires special pigments which are designed specifically for sculpting; it is one of those techniques where the quantity of applied shades directly affects the quality of the result. With regards to tricopigmentation, this procedure becomes more and more popular both among men and women suffering from alopecia; even doctors who specialize in trichology come to our school to learn about this procedure. The thing is,medical procedures in combination with tricopigmentation can help to achieve really impressive and even phenomenal results: after the procedure that can be considered as skin stimulation, hair follicles wake up and the hair starts growing again. Naturally, tricopigmentation has a decorative effect: the pigment creates an almost complete illusion of hair, especially on scars where the hair can never start growing again, despite any stimulation. Obviously, the effect of the procedure should be subtle and naturally looking. It is a work of art when the procedure of hair replication is carefully and beautifully done. In some cases, little dots can be ingrained on the skin creating

the illusion of growing stubble. However, in the case of a large bald patch without any hair, the dots will look like a rash, so it is necessary to draw hairs that vary in their length. Tricopigmentation is a procedure that requires serious and thorough preparation if the artist aims to achieve great results which will totally satisfy the client. After all, for a lot of men hair loss often turns into a personal drama. — Tattoo pigments, being in growing demand all over the world, are very often used in permanent makeup. How do you feel about this? — There are pigments for the body which are used for artistic tattoos. Other pigments are designed to be applied on the facial skin; their composition differs from the first group of pigments, and there is a reason for that. Pigments designed for the body are much cheaper, same as the devices that are used in body tattooing. This is the main reason why they are so popular now: people want to save their money. Besides, pigments designed for the body have a more liquid texture, so their level of penetration into the skin is deeper and the color lasts longer. The problem is, the more deeply the pigment penetrates the skin, the faster it fades. What is really important for both customers and artists is the quality of work. In order to keep the quality at a very high level, it is necessary to remember that each area (the body, the face, etc.) requires pigments that were designed specifically for this area. Manufacturing companies spend large amounts of money on scientific research and laboratory experiments in order to find the best combinations of ingredients suitable for different skin types. Pigments created for various facial and body parts differ from each other in composition and consistence, and this is not someone’s whim; the reason is that all these areas have different skin types, so the pigments as well as methods of their application should be different, too. Anyone whose aim is to achieve great results should shoot for the stars choosing high quality pigments, devices, etc., not to mention the quality of work. Trying to save money on really important things is like using fake diamonds: you might deceive other people making them think your diamonds are real, but you cannot lie to yourself. It is much more pleasant to have something real and treasure it; some people are just afraid to try. — What are your favorite pigments, the ones that you use most of the time? Can you give us some recommendations on how to use them? — I work for the Biotek Company and the only pigments I use are made by Biotek. Of course, I have favorite pigments among them, for example, Blond 10: light brown with a cold greyish tone. To be more precise, it is rather half-warm and half-cold. This pigment does PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

not go red, because there is a green tint in its composition. It has a very rich color and is very long-lasting. If applied on the naked skin (not as a coverage for existing permanent makeup), this pigment leaves no traces at all – neither pink, nor blue or green - after it comes off in a few years. It was tested on my daughter and on many other people. This, by the way, also contributes to the selection of quality pigments. There are some artists who like to mix pigments and colors without testing it first, or add anesthesia in an unknown proportion, etc. I usually say to them: "Before applying it on the client’s skin, you should try it on yourself or on your loved ones” – and, for some reason, the artists seem very surprised. I quite often perform correction procedures. The pigments that I use in order to cover low quality permanent makeup of the lips are Biolip 42 and 43: they have very rich colors and dense texture, so the coverage of badly done permanent makeup with the use of these pigments is immediately noticeable and very effective. The number of satisfied customers who have experienced the magic of these pigments speaks for itself. Talking again about the preferences of the clients, there is a pigment called Baby Rose; all of the girls who had it applied really like this color. There is another pigment which would be suitable for ladies; it is called Sunset and has the color of dusk. — What is your opinion on microblading? Is it a sneaky marketing trick that leaves clients’ expectations unfulfilled? A simple yet at the same time complicated procedure? Or is it a magic technique suitable for some people but not for everyone? — For some people, I guess, this is just another way to save money on high quality equipment. For others it is a new technique of pigment application. The bottom line is that microblading does not involve the use

of normal permanent makeup machines; instead, the technique is done with a tiny, angled blade made of a row of even tinier needles. The whole procedure is performed manually. The microblading technique involves drawing individual, crisp hair strokes; the pigment is implanted after the creation of fine incisions in the skin. As a result, the skin quite often gets cut really deeply. Microblading may date back thousands of years. Chinese artists normally perform this procedure with great skill; however, in other countries the results are more unpredictable and completely depend on the level of the artist’s professionalism. Nevertheless, since the price of the procedure is not very high, the popularity of microblading is growing all over the world. Even Biotec has produced a series of pigments and a special needle for microblading which is rounded at both sides. It is intended to be used by artists who know how to perform the procedure carefully and with no mistakes. — Being a part of a large team that claims to be the leader in the world of equipment and pigments for permanent makeup is a great responsibility. What Biotek means for you? — Biotek for us is everything: this is our team, our family. We have very warm relations. Even if Biotek did not have the positions on the PM market that it has — it would be easier to work with such a team rather than alone. Biotek is Apple of permanent makeup. Therefore, to be a part of this team means not only feeling the support of a huge collective, but also enjoying all the benefits that cooperation with such a company can give: having technological superiority and the latest materials in the arsenal, the ability to offer customers the latest, most interesting developments, etc. We, in turn, also give a lot to the company, helping it to find new markets, new partners all over the world, thus contributing to the growth and development of this giant. And we are particularly pleased that Biotek values our contribution to its development.

CAMOUFLAGE Some artists say that they don’t like using camouflage pigments. The fact is that it is necessary to know how exactly they need to be used. Everybody understands that it is a white pigment which is really thick and dense; therefore, it needs to be diluted in almost every situation, especially when it comes to glazing, when the pigment is applied to coverdark circles under the eyes, scars, vitiligo, etc. In this case, the pigment is diluted to the state of almost complete transparency and then applied in thin layers, one after another.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

BLUSH There are two types of blush: basic and modeling. Modeling blush is used to highlight some facial features and underplay the others; this procedure is called sculpting. Modeling blush can help to enhance facial features in the best way possible. With the correct application of the pigment, the result looks very beautiful and absolutely natural. However,this procedure is not for everyone.Basic blush, on the other hand, is universal and can be applied on anyone; it is suitable for both men and women. Basic blush can make the facial skin look younger and healthier. The main thing is not to make a mistake when choosing the right color.

— Tell us about what you like and appreciate in Biotek products the most. — I can answer this question without thinking: certainly, it’s Stilus 3VO. What is special about this machine? First of all, it's convenience. Not only is it convenient to hold in your hand, although it is, but, above all, convenience of thoughtfulness to trifles. From design and balance to a special construction of the cartridges, which allows increasing the level of pigment supply so that the necessary clarity of the line could be achieved by one movement. Speaking of Stilus 3VO, one cannot help mentioning one more unique know-how realized in this machine: it is self-tuning power. Thanks to the microprocessor Stilus 3VO allows an artist to work with the same pressure, regardless of the number of needles. Due to this, someone who works on this machine doesn’t need to be distracted by unnecessary details, and can completely concentrate on drawing. All these innovations in one machine are truly amazing, and I don’t think other manufacturers have something like this tight now.

— Are your Academy's teaching standards the same all over the world, both in content and in terms of practice, or are there any differences? Can you specify the standards of teaching the profession of the artist of permanent makeup, what is the most important in the teaching process? — At the core of the Biotek Academy's training there is classic permanent makeup. We have basic programs, advanced courses, professional courses and master classes where full-time students are taught certain techniques that require special training and certain skill. The training necessarily includes a theory - histology, skin physiology. The theoretical part of the training also includes the basics of coloristics, the basics of makeup, and even the beginnings of professional ethics and psychology. But of course, the main thing that our students receive is the practical skills of working with a machine — first on latex models and then on live models. For practicing artists there is an advanced training where they can get practical skills in dealing

TIPS FOR NOVICE ARTISTS It is compulsory to get real education. Do not rush to fashionable new techniques, but start with basic knowledge. Practice constantly. And before you start practicing on live models you need to make sure that you are ready for this. To achieve this you need to draw constantly, fill your hand, so that when it comes to living models - no one would be ashamed of their work.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

with problem skin, with scars and dyschromia, to study trichopigmentation and decorative permanent makeup. — Recently there have been many questions to refereeing of various championships. Even participants of competitions note a presence of lobbyism in judges and the prejudiced attitude. You often act as a speaker and take part in judging championships around the world. What is your view on refereeing? — I can only add that the judging in the competitions on the PM is arranged so that the opportunity to make an unfair decision is practically reduced to zero. Even if one judge can make an unfair verdict, the decision is taken by the jury, and it not only makes its assessment, but may also demand an explanation from the judge whose assessment differs significantly from the assessments of other members of the panel of judges. Very often, as the chairman of the jury, I explain to those who are unlucky this time which mistakes they've made. And those artists who really want to be the best always take this as kind advice. — Tell us about the professional event which you have been pleasantly amazed with over the past year. — Every congress, every event is different from the rest, and each in its own way is good. But I would highlight, first of all, the jubilee congress "30 years of Biotek" in Milan this year. It was a real extravaganza of luxury, a real feast of beauty, organized with a purely Italian cordiality, and surprisingly Russian scale. The "Zolotaya Pchela" Congress of Julia Winner in Ufa / Russia; really liked it. It only took one detail: all the participants, all the speakers, the organizers — all who were at the congress, came to it in white. Even this on its own immediately caught my eye; everybody remembered and liked everything. Now, imagine how much effort it took the organizers to convince the participants to wear white clothes. And not just speakers, but all the participants! Both the idea and the work on its implementation are admirable.

— Your husband is also involved in business - how is it to live, work, be together for 24 hours a day? Many artists are so fascinated by the work that they put it above everything, including families... How to find and maintain a balance? — Though Vladimir and I are business partners, we practically do not meet at work. Everyone is busy with his own business, and our offices are at different ends of the office. And in the evening, over dinner, we can discuss some working moments. I always try to work only during business hours. The rest of the time should be dedicated to the family: remember that you are a woman, be beautiful and desirable. And do not forget about the order, comfort and prosperity in the house. Otherwise, the family will turn into an impossible dream. In general, if the husband and wife are engaged in one thing, then the attitude towards it is very different. The common cause unites the family. The cause in which the common forces are invested, the total time and, most importantly, the common money. My husband and I always did some joint projects from the very beginning, before the Biotec. I think that this has contributed a lot to the fact that we have been together for many years. Also, we have noticed for a long time that among our partners business is developing much more successfully, if it is built by family type. As a rule, it involves a husband and wife. But somewhere already the children are beginning to be involved, and somewhere even grandchildren. — Do you see yourself in your daughter? — If only externally. Although Vladimir argues that our daughter is like me: really stubborn and an achiever. She studies at MGIMO, and her interests are: foreign languages, finance, politics - so I see in her more of my husband rather than myself )))

MY SECRETS OF BEAUTY Do not save on quality cosmetic procedures. Go in for sports. Any sports; the main thing is regularity. Say goodbye to bad habits if you have them. For example, I quit smoking and did not regret it for a second. And appearance in many ways depends on nature. Although they say that the character cannot be altered: it is not entirely true. Modern psychological techniques, as of present, do not allow turning a demon into an angel, but it is quite possible to change your outlook to a lighter and more cheerful one. Light and cheerful people always look more attractive than the boring, peevish pedants.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

- First of all, I am an artist and I do my best to be creative.

- If I do something, I try to do it perfectly. And I urge everyone to do so!

- The main secret of success is to do what you love.

- Biotek is Apple of permanent makeup.

- If you want to do everything on time - do not forget to rest. Rest is sacred!

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

PIGMENTS

WWW.AMIEA.COM

MT.DERM GmbH is one of the world leaders in the development and production of professional micropigmentation systems. The company specializes in developing and manufacturing products for various medical centers, as well as plastic surgeons and dermatologists. One of the important studies in which the company takes part is the transdermal injection of vaccines. The key area of these studies is the implantation of medication and pigment substances into the skin. Micropigmentation has always been the focus of the company's attention since 1998. The goal of MT.DERM GmbH is to be the market leader in every field in which it specializes. Combining the latest innovations of cosmetology and medicine is the secret of the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success. The innovations of MT.DERM GmbH have made

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

it possible to create safe Amiea micropigmentation systems which are very convenient and easy to use. An extremely high level of quality control ensures a long shelf life of the products and perfect accuracy of the results. The Amiea brand has two series of pigment colour charts â&#x20AC;&#x201C; The Organic line and The Dermasafe line. The Dermasafe pigment line has been unavailable in Germany, France, Austria, Switzerland and Belgium since 2016; however, it is possible to buy and use both series of pigments in other countries. Both types of pigments produced by Amiea (MT.DERM GmbH) have their advantages. Before starting to work with either of them, it is essential to understand the difference between organic and inorganic pigments.

BENEFITS Both Dermasafe (inorganic) and organic pigments are long-lasting and easy to apply into the skin. The Dermasafe pigments create a very natural effect and ensure perfect flow due to the balanced composition; they are sensitivity-tested by DERMATEST® and do not contain aromatic amines. The Organic line pigments have the following qualities: vibrant colors, high pigment density and maximum pigment retention which is achieved through a high concentration of pigment within the color. They help to create a very natural effect on both eyebrows (the pigments are perfect for the hair stroke technique) and lips (the color is bright yet does not look artificial). The Organic line pigments do not contain iron oxides.

COLORS Amiea pigment colors have an optimized formula which provides improved ink flow and better skin penetration. High quality of the pigments ensures intense and vibrant pigmentation results. The pigments have a creamy texture; however, if it is necessary to create more transparent effects, the pigments can be diluted. Each Amiea pigment color combines 3-4 different pigments which makes it possible to create a large selection of color shades. Amiea colors of both lines - organic and inorganic - can be mixed in different proportions in order to create various color tones. Organic pigments have very bright and intense colors; they are available in two different lines: a warm line (reddish shades) and a cool line (greyish shades). The Dermasafe pigments are warmer and duller, with a predominance of red shade.

PIGMENT APPLICATION Both types of pigments are easy to apply. However, organic pigments require a different application technique compared to inorganic (iron dioxide) pigments; therefore, it is recommended to attend a special training course in order to achieve the same results.

SAFETY The Council of Europe released The Resolution on requirements and criteria for the safety of tattoos and permanent makeup “ResAP(2008)1”. This regulation sets standards regarding: • • • lation) •

Sterility Restriction of aromatic amines & azo-colourants EC Regulation 1223/ 2009 (E.U. cosmetic reguAnnex. II & IV Limits of heavy metal impurities

All Amiea pigments contain cosmetic or pharmacological ingredients with no preservatives added; they are sterile, gamma-irradiated and free from ingredients of human or animal origin. The pigments are produced

with the use of purified water according to quality and hygiene standards. Both pigment lines have safety material datasheets for each colour and guaranteed quality of pigments according to ResAP(2008)1. The Organic line of pigments was developed due to increased safety regulations and is an alternative to controversially discussed iron oxide pigments. These pigments do not contain toxic heavy metals or nickel; they are also totally free from any magnetic substances. However, Amiea organic pigments should not be confused with natural pigments as are produced synthetically and refer to a chemical classification.

TIPS All Amiea pigments are great for permanent makeup of lips and eyebrows. The warm line of organic pigments is perfect for creating fine and precise hair strokes, whereas the cool line is better for shading and powder techniques. There is a slight possibility of pigment migration; therefore, it is not a good idea to penetrate the skin too deeply when applying the pigment. PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

MAUD RAVIER FRANCE Organic pigments cover particularly efficiently, allowing by juxtaposition a durable neutralization of unnatural colours, and even the lightening of an eyebrow that is too dark, or the re-colouring of a lip which has turned greyish due to the use of poor quality pigments. Today organic pigments are longer lasting, more stable, and do not turn over time. There is no need for complex mixtures, for colour “fixatives” or “stabilizers”. Hairs remain impeccable; they do not blur, they do not run. Thanks to organic pigments, you can assure your client that if her eyebrow is too dark, you will easily be able to alter the colour with the retouching process. Some tips: • Do not judge by the shade in the flask. • The cool range has an orange shade in the flask, whereas the warm range has a green shade. • In order to get an idea of the final result, simply spread a little on the skin. • With blondes, a slight greenish shine may last for a few days before turning into a superb blonde. Over the following days colours lose little of their intensity. Your client will therefore not leave with near-black eyebrows, but with almost the definitive tint.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

OLGA KRAVCHENKO ESTONIA It's no secret that for several years it has been forbidden to work with inorganic pigments at the legislative level in Europe. In this connection, manufacturers have been forced to develop and produce organic pigments that do not contain metal oxides. I am an international trainer for Amiea, so I am one of the first to receive organic pigments from our brand. The first experiments confused me, because I did not know the specifics of these pigments and tried to work with them as usual. The results were not quite the same and couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t please both me and the client. But in the future, I was able to understand their features. They feel more like tattooing ones, but not so liquid. Organic pigments are very concentrated and finely dispersed, so if the pigment is applied too deeply - the color transition into too cold shades is possible. However, if an artist copes with easy application, the result will be fine - this work lasts for a long time and does not change color to undesirable shades. Pigments for the lips are injected into the skin very easily and are well distributed. In fact, they do not change the color after healing - they only become brighter on a couple of tones. To complete the work, 2-4 passes are enough, depending on the desired effect. I love the organics for the lips; the color keeps quite a long time and does not change its brightness. Pigments are very good in regards to the covering ability, including the bright tones. Organic quickly dries up in the cap, so

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

you have to dilute it or add fresh pigment. Pigments for the eyelids are very bright, requiring easy application. They hold beautifully and are quite color stable. Pigments for eyebrows require careful selection for each technique and depend on skin color of customers, which also requires an artist to have the advanced color knowledge. The most important is this superficial application, especially if you work in the technique of hair strokes.

SUZE STEYL RSA There is no greater feeling of confidence than knowing with certainty that your client is going to have a good healed result. This has been my experience since using Amiea pigments. What has been most gratifying is seeing the healed results after a year; great retention and, more importantly, the colour. Whilst there might have been fading due to external factors like sun, natural exfoliation and products used etc., the colour has, for the most part, remained true. With Amiea pigments, guesswork is taken away; the pigments are true to their colour. As with any pmu procedure, the healed result is generally lighter than immediately after, but it is merely a lighter shade of the one being used. When it comes to brows and specifically clients who have very blonde or red hair, the results of using these pigments is nothing short of astounding. Chestnut, Marsala, Persian horse used in combination or on their own have resulted in the most beautiful complimentary brows. The warmth without greyness. Dark skinned clients often had unsatisfactory results with pigments turning very grey or greenish for various reasons, including the large amount of melanin and natural undertone of their skin. By warming the darker pigments like Geisha and Amazon with the addition of Persian horse and Chestnut some of the loveliest results have been achieved. Again, the colour has remained true and beautiful. The lip pigments are beautifully sheer and well retained, creating great natural colour; there is no need to overwork the skin or cause any trauma to the lips. Sheer natural loveliness. As we become more proficient with our PMU and gain experience, taking into account the various factors affecting the outcome of our procedures like

undertone, skin type and quality, oiliness, thickness etc, we are able to tailor our colour combinations and techniques to suit everyone. I truly believe that the Amiea pigment range has a pigment or their combination that will result in a PMU procedure - be it lips, eyeliner or brows - that will stay true to colour and last long. Happy clients and happy technicians. Amiea has managed to achieve that with amazing success.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

DVD COMMENTARY

BLESSED BROWS TECHNIQUE BY TATIANA SHUBINA RUSSIA A world-class permanent makeup artist and trainer, the owner of a PMU studio and a PMU school Tatiana Shubina introduces her own method of teaching the hairstroke technique in permanent makeup of eyebrows called "Blessed brows".

In my work I use equipment of various brands; my choice normally depends on certain qualities of the skin: its type, regenerative capacity, etc. With regards to needles, though, I always prefer the thinnest ones. Before the procedure, I often recommend mechanical or enzyme peeling; it removes the superficial skin layer without harming the epidermis. The aftercare is probably the most important part of the procedure as it is essential for proper healing. I suggest using the following scheme: the hydrocortisone ointment should be applied during the first 3

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

days, and then the Bepanthen ointment should be used for a period of 10-11 days. It is very important to remember that after the procedure the skin must be protected from the sun; it is not recommended to go to the sauna, visit solarium, etc. Any cosmetic procedures that can affect skin integrity and remove the applied pigment should be avoided. I insist on unconditional compliance with my recommendations. Such defects as gaps or spots might appear when necessary aftercare procedures have been neglected.

CREATING EYEBROWS First of all, a topical anesthetic must be applied on the skin. I usually use Mezonap, Emla or Light Dep. It normally takes 15 to 30 minutes for anesthesia to start working; within this period of time clients may lie down and relax. It is necessary to wait in order to achieve adequate numbness. The beginning of the eyebrows is the lowest “A” point. The highest “B” point is located on a straight imaginary line which goes upwards from the nose wing through the iris of the eye. The middle “C” point is located between points “A” and “B”, facing the upper part of the earlobe. By creating such lines, we make it possible for the face to look younger. The “C” point should never be lower than the “A” point; otherwise, the

face will look much older. Remember: “A” is the lowest point, “B” is the highest one, and “C” is in the middle. The eyebrow itself is divided into three zones along the length. The beginning of the eyebrow is the lightest zone (see pic.1). Closer to the central part, the eyebrows get thicker, and then they become thinner and narrower. If the eyebrow has the same shade in each zone, it will make it look very artificial – and that is what we need to avoid! Vertically, the eyebrow can also be divided into three segments. The upper row of hairs is the thinnest, whereas the middle part is normally the thickest area. My technique helps to teach how to make eyebrows look as natural as possible: starting with light, thin hair strokes, it gets thicker in the middle and then becomes thinner and narrower towards the end (see pic.1).

PICTURE 1

Lighte

(Thin)

Middl

Darke

(Thick

(Narro

wer/T

er)

hinne

A I

III

A B C

– LOWES T POINT – HIGHEST POINT – MIDDLE POINT PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

FIVE RULES The main thing in the hair stroke technique is the hair stroke itself. It is very important not to make it straight; it should always have a little curve, bending in such a way that the starting and finishing lines are thin, and the arch is pronounced. In order to achieve this, you can use two methods of moving the machine: so-called "pendulum", or a method of color saturation with reciprocating movements, holding the machine at an angle of 45 degrees. It is important to avoid the appearance of very thick dots in the place where the hair stroke starts; otherwise it will immediately lose its natural look. The shape of a "dumbbell" (when both starting and finishing lines of the hair are thick) is also a mistake which should be avoided. Last but not least is the direction of each hair stroke. In the first part of the eyebrow, they should be facing the “B” point, whereas in the third part, after passing the middle zone, the hair strokes should be facing the “C” point. The only exception is the Asian style of eyebrows; however, at the moment we are not talking about this style. I teach my students "The rules of 5 hairs." Remembering

PICTURE 2

these basics, you will never make mistakes when creating perfect eyebrows. The first hair is the shortest and the lightest. It has a curve and cannot be turned up at the angle of 90 degrees; it goes down and sets the tendency. The second one is the boomerang hair (see pic.2). At the “B” point, we need to change the direction towards the “C” point, so the line will be drawn in a shape of a boomerang. This is normally quite a difficult task for beginners. The main mistake here could be that after the “B” point the direction of the hair strokes continues to go up. In this situation, the eyebrow will look like a fence. The third hair directs towards the upper part of the earlobe; it also defines the direction. The fourth hair is the most difficult one, because it has to create something like a plexus of two hearts, along with the hair of a different direction; they both should be directed at the “B” point, creating the shape of the entire lower part of the eyebrow. The fifth hair is the lower “boomerang”; it will help us not to change the direction at the “C” point.

2. “The boomerang hair” / change of direction

2. – The third hair (directs towards the upper part of earlobe)

1. The first hair

C 5. Lower “Boomerang”

A 4. Plexus of two hears / both directed at “B” spot

PIGMENTS I work with different brands of pigments; the selection depends on the client's skin type only. Working with brunettes, I would normally use Biotek, whereas Amiea (Germany), Aqua (US) are more suitable for blondes; however, it is all individual and depends on personal characteristics. In order to add more volume to the shape of the

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

A B C

– LOWES T POINT – HIGHEST POINT – MIDDLE POINT

eyebrows, I can use up to three colors at a time; alternatively, it is possible to use one pigment, but vary its shade by changing the applied pressure of the machine. I hope my professional secrets will be useful for you. In my opinion, it is very important to remember that eyebrows should emphasize the woman’s individuality, enhance her beauty and make her look younger and brighter.

™

July 18th - 20th, 2018 Loews Hollywood Hotel in Los Angeles, CA Join us at this amazing event created by Will Anthony®, Daria Chuprys, Teryn Darling, and Mary Ritcherson. The America the Beautiful Permanent Makeup Conference™ will feature three days of: International Speakers • Live Demonstrations Workshops • Vendors • Raffles

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM Learn more at www.americathebeautifulpmu.com

EXPERT

VICTORIA AMMOSCATO ITALY W W W.STUDIOSKIN.IT

ALL ABOUT MICRONEEDLING 32

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

I first started offering microneedling as a treatment over 10 years ago; I was fascinated by the concept of stimulating the body’s own healing process and excited for what this could offer me in terms of results for my clients with this non-invasive natural rejuvenation treatment.

SO, WHAT IS MICRONEEDLING? There are many names given to this treatment but all rely on the same process, the use of a needle to perforate and stimulate our bodies own wound healing mechanism; homeostasis, inflammation, proliferation and maturation. A consequence of this process when controlled is the stimulation of cell proliferation and subsequently a healthy production of collagen, elastin, keratin and melanin, leading to a more compact, healthier and even toned complexion, all of which are the end objective for any skin rejuvenation program. It can create marked improvement to ageing concerns, balance sebum levels, increase hydration and better circulation, create a stronger barrier defense, and improve areas of hyperpigmentation and the appearance of scar tissue. Some of the commonly used names for microneedling are: • Multitrepannic Collagen Actuation (MCA), this is a given term to the use of a tattoo device to individually target areas of concern. • Collagen Actuation Therapy (C.A.T) or Collagen Induction Therapy (C.I.T) common terms for this treatment as they refer to the result. The origins of this treatment are often the cause of dispute both within the permanent makeup sector and the aesthetic and medical sectors; therefore I prefer not to reference any source specifically but instead to focus on the treatment itself.

IS MICRONEEDLING A SAFE TREATMENT? There is a common question from both fellow professionals and my potential clients, “can microneedling be dangerous?” “Yes” is my simple answer. When carried out neglectfully of the potential risks, as with any treatment it can pose dangerous complications. Particularly there is the risk of reaction from the use of products not suitable to use after perforating the outer layer of the skin, a risk of collagen degradation from timings of treatments being too frequent and not allowing the process of regeneration (proliferation) to arrive to maturation, and a risk of scarring from treatments being too invasive or by incorrectly using other modalities in combination therapies. More than 10 years on and things have evolved drastically; there are education programs that offer protocols and support, much more information readily available, research has been carried out regarding suitable products to be used in synergy with microneedling that can offer safe and consistent results. It is particularly useful for cosmetic tattoo specialists, because a healthier skin means a better canvas, which leads to a more positive result particularly with permanent makeup. In case of chromatic reconstruction of areola, techniques can be applied to improve scar tissue and even striae distensae post mastectomy prior to or in addition to the application of pigment to the reconstructed breast. Microneedling can also be used, for example, in cases such as hair transplant scars before scalp pigmentation, improving scar tissue which makes the application of pigment easier and the appearance of the end result more desirable.

I must be honest that initially my approach was limited; I followed a basic education program and a protocol that didn’t always offer me the results I had expected. Issues that I encountered were: prolonged redness, results were sometimes unpredictable and there wasn’t much support or information available at that time regarding this treatment. In fact, there was more negative publicity than support, in certain sectors it was dismissed as either ineffective or dangerous. But the positive results that I saw, especially from treating my own skin, led me to adapt, to carry out my own research with products and combination treatments, the result of which was the basis for the protocol that I use today. The use of biomimetic growth factors and hyaluronic acid with the ability to penetrate and moderate the inflammatory response enables enhanced results. The treatment itself should not be heavily reliant on the infusion of product, whilst the use of the correct active products is essential; at the right stages of the process it should not be mistaken for mesotherapy, as it is not the injection or infusion of product but the action of the needle itself. The product used should support that process. PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

IS MICRONEEDLING EFFECTIVE? The second most asked question is about the results of this procedure, to which I answer that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the single most effective technique that I have as an aesthetician at my disposal. It has offered me the opportunity to truly improve my clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; skin. I offer combination therapies, individual programs for clients that are carefully considered; microneedling can certainly help to make other methods more effective as well.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Microneedling is such a popular method of skin rejuvenation because it stimulates a natural process that if successfully controlled leads to so much more than just collagen synthesis. It can be truly skin changing because of its positive effect on stimulating other cellular renewal, namely keratinocytes and melanocytes; it avoids the destruction of the cutaneous barrier as with other methods such as deep peeling or modalities that create heat (e.g. laser) therefore making it a suitable treatment for a wider range of photo types. It is excellent for obtaining and maintaining a healthier skin.

PROS OF TREATMENT:

CONS OF TREATMENT:

- It is a stimulation of a natural process, therefore it appeals to a wider client base. - It can be used successfully along medical aesthetic treatments. - It can be used successfully in combination with other rejuvenation methods, when there is respect for correct timescales of treatments. - It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t destruct the barrier function of the skin.

- The fact that it is a stimulation of a natural process means that results are not immediate, for example, the remodellation of collagen takes several months. - Client collaboration is required, a healthy lifestyle means better results. In order to achieve good results it is important to understand the process behind the treatment, to have a sound knowledge of the anatomy of the skin, to follow a safe and proven protocol and feel comfortable while insisting on collaboration with your clients.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

IS MICRONEEDLING A MEDICAL TREATMENT? This is something that I encounter often; there is certainly a noted difference between the approach of the medical sector and that of the aesthetic. In order for a treatment to be described as medical, the provider of that treatment needs to be a medic. Therefore, regardless of whether an aesthetician and a medic offer an identical treatment the description must not be medical when carried out by a non-medical provider; to do so is misleading and also creates dispute between two sectors which should be working together to support one another and to provide clients and patients with a wider range of treatment options.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Both medical and aesthetic treatments offer different options. Aestheticians in depth study of the skin should not be dismissed, as an aesthetic approach is generally less invasive, remaining within the boundaries of general skin improvement as opposed to therapy. Also it should always be remembered that an aesthetician cannot diagnose, prescribe or manage the outcome if issues occur, so a less invasive approach is always recommended. Different countries and even regions offer different guidelines so it is important if offering this treatment or considering doing so to check the guidelines first. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m sure that this treatment will continue to evolve within both aesthetic and medical sectors. It remains a passion for me to discover more and more regarding this highly effective and sometimes misunderstood treatment.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

EXPERT

LANETTE MARIE SCHERR W W W.LANET TESCHERR.COM

THE ART OF SUCCESSFUL PARAMEDICAL AND SCAR CAMOUFLAGE PROCEDURES

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

CONSIDERATIONS BEFORE PERFORMING CAMOUFLAGE AND OTHER FORMS OF PARAMEDICAL TATTOOING: • Your experience level as a technician. Realistically a minimum of 3-4 years. If one has an artistic background, then possibly sooner. • Total Mastery of Color Theory. The level of expertise the technician has reached in the color theory/color choice. In my opinion, if a technician has reached total 100% proficiency intuitively choosing appropriate pigment for their client’s eyebrows and knows explicitly each client’s undertone upon first glance, then they are a good candidate for adding this type of work. • Eye for Correct Needle and Configuration. The technician has developed an accurate eye for the correct needle choiceand configuration for each case of work they are performing. For example, in my experience, a large swath of white hypo-pigmentation will be better served with a large flat needle grouping brushed in with a watered down pigment. A scar around the hairline may be better served with a 5 or 7 round dotting into the scar. You don’t want too much density to make a darker line versus the original white line. In addition, if one uses too small a needle grouping, it can result in too much pigment density in the area making it darker than the skin one is trying to match. • Correct Color Mix is paramount and mixing the appropriate color for camouflage is extremely tricky and takes years to be instinctive. I call camouflage very “educated guesswork”, and one cannot become too confident, because the minute one does, a client will come along and give you an unpredictable or unexpected result, which could be very difficult to fix. It is much easier to deal with a small patch hidden in the hairline that turned weird, than to have to deal

with a whole scar that healed day-glo orange or bubblegum pink or an Afro American skin tone that totally ashed out the color! One has to recognize their boundaries with these procedures. They require tremendous skill and experience, not only in application method but in color choice. • You must patch test absolutely everyone. Technicians must plan on proceeding very slowly with these procedures and patch test everyone until their level of skill has been reached with very consistent, successful results with all of their Caucasian skin toned clients. Pigment a small test area first (the smaller the better) in the beginning, so that if the color needs adjustment, it can be corrected later. Absolutely, don’t pigment large areas until you have the color exact when healed. For darker and Afro American Skin types, regardless of experience, I suggest you patch test each case as they can be very unpredictable. • Clearly understand who is/isn’t a suitable candidate for this work. Certain scars simply are not good candidates. Keloid, pink or purplish/grey scars, I don’t touch. Laser intervention by a qualified dermatologist can be very effective in fading out darker scars. In general, I only work on white scars. White scars are tricky enough, and trying to “whiteout” a darker scar or other disfigurement may look good for the short term but can and will go yellowish later, because of the amount of white pigment load left, once the original tint of the color fades out. • Know your limitations. Be willing to turn down any case or client when in doubt of your ability to improve it. I try to be very realistic with my clients as to what I may or may not achieve with my work. I do not work on scars less than one year old unless they have already turned white. Some hypertrophic scars can be improved from the needling process alone, with or without pigment added. As they say in this business, “it is better to under promise with a client’s expectations and over deliver on the results!”

FINE HAIR STROKES PERFORMED WITH A 6 FLAT NEEDLE WITH AN EXTREMELY WARM BROWN. Head pigmentation always heals cool, so I overcompensated with warmth.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

VITILIGO

During my 20 year career in performing permanent makeup and medical tattoo disfigurement procedures, I have found that performing camouflage on vitiligo is usually not a good longer term solution to a problem that can and in most cases continue to change. There are many factors I select to attempt camouflage procedure in these cases. The client needs to be well aware that in most cases the pigment will turn mauve in around six months or so and will never hold true to color. They must be willing to accept an improvement and a lessoning in the contrast with their own skin tone and realize that no matter how much ash you add to their pigment blend, it will peach-out to some degree. They also must totally understand that disrupting the skin with the tattoo process can very well cause the vitiligo to spread no matter how long it has been dormant. In the case study shown below, I only do vitiligo on any skin tone with

a patch test prior, so the client can see a reasonable idea of what can be achieved with color and accept the long term ramifications of doing so. I rarely take on these cases unless the client understands explicitly all problems associated with it, and that it will need constant maintenance if successful. In general vitiligo does not give good results long term. Being an autoimmune disease, the pigmented area does not heal like a regular scar camouflage type procedure. Vitiligo can become a moving target and trigger the spread of the color loss. If the technician does achieve somewhat of an improvement short term, in most cases the treated area will discolor within six months/often sooner. Only consider attempting these cases if the client realizes and completely understands that the chance of any long term improvement is slim and that they are willing to try for a chance of slight improvement that will not last well in comparison to other types of camouflage procedures.

Vitiligo before, color match, immediately post and healed patch test.

Same client before and immediately post procedure. Note that at the day of procedure I overcompensated with the green ash deeper than her skin tone, anticipating the peach during healing.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Vitiligo diminished and healed after one treatment. Note that despite the overcompensating with grey olive in the pigment choice used for procedure, how much peachy tones the skin has pulled. This is the norm for vitiligo regardless of undertone.

Same client in progress â&#x20AC;&#x201C; two days later. PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

PIGMENT CONSIDERATIONS FOR PARAMEDICAL AND CAMOUFLAGE PROCEDURES A large part of my practice is scar camouflage. By trial and error and a natural knack for color being a fine artist, the blending of colors and washes to create a natural result came pretty easy to me. I never had formal training in paramedical tattooing, as I taught myself. For me it is the exchange of my paintbrush for the needles and my oils for the pigments. I prefer traditional permanent makeup pigments for camouflage procedures. Though body art pigments are wonderful for areola, I find them too heavy in pigment load to achieve the soft washes I prefer. There is a saying in America, “If it isn’t broke don’t fix it”, and that is my motto with camouflage. • Camouflage pigments in general contain a large percentage of Titanium Dioxide with a lesser amount of sheer pigment tint. Therefore, camouflage pigments will turn black if ever hit with laser. Pigment containing white can be removed with a laser, but it will take multiple applications for it to be totally removed and look much worse during the process before it looks better. The pigment will fade and will require touch-ups to keep it looking optimum. The client must wear sunscreen or sun protective clothing for longevity of color.

• Use of topical vitamin A acids/Retinols, Glycolic Acids or Alpha-Hydroxy Acids will hasten the fading of the color. • It is absolutely necessary to document this work from beginning to end with photos and detailed procedure notes. • Most camouflage and paramedical pigments require the addition of a green/grey skin tone modifier to the color mix to achieve the proper undertone, otherwise the result will heal into an undesirable shade of bright pink, orange, canary yellow or peach. Even though the color mixture of pigment appears to match exactly the client’s skin, it is necessary to water it down and rub across the scar. You will then be able to determine if the pigment needs the addition of an ash grey modifier to blend with the cool undertones beneath the surrounding skin. I use an undertone modifier in all my paramedical procedures including breast work. • It is always wise to err on the side of a larger needle grouping when performing camouflage and other paramedical procedures. I usually water down my pigment mix to create a looser wash. I prefer about a ¾ pigment to a ¼ distilled water ratio or more. It is better to create a layering effect with these procedures versus a too dense pigment load due to the amount of white. Brow colors watered down are often good for paramedical work.

CLOSE-UP OF HEALED RESULTS. You can see the texture I had started to build in left areola.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

AREOLAS BEFORE AND AFTER HEALED. This case was a classmate of mine from high school with whom I spoke at 40 year high school reunion. She was very unhappy from the result from her unilateral breast cancer procedure performed ten years before. I performed one procedure on her and told her that to get the best result she would need to allow me to work on both areolas. I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t able to do a touchup on her, but this was after one application healed. Note the very sheer wash I used to blend in the scar traversing the top of her breast. It is imperative to wash down all camouflage pigments minimum of 30 percent otherwise it will age very badly and turn into large yellowish cottage cheese clumps under the skin.

IMMEDIATELY POST FIRST PROCEDURE TEXTURIZATION OF THE LEFT AREOLA AND SOME COLOR PUT INTO THE NIPPLE. The nipple tissue was extremely thin and flimsy making it very difficult to get enough of a grip on it to properly insert color. I was going to address it on her touch-up but unfortunately due to personal problems she was not able to return. She was very pleased with how the one application looked. Color wash placed into scar to diffuse demarcation.

DESIRED PIGMENT PLUS MODIFIER EQUALS CORRECT RESULTS

ZERO

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

BROW LIFT BEFORE AND AFTER. This was a fun case, two applications. I performed this with a 7 round 50% pigment, 50% dilution wash. Same with the cheek below. This one was after first treatment healed

FACELIFT HYPOPIGMENTATION / SCARS.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

TATTOO REMOVAL HYPOPIGMENTATION SCARRING. Out of town client, two procedures 10 weeks apart; color wash, 5 and 7 round needles.

FOLLICULAR SIMULATION PROCEDURE FULL HEAD PERFORMED OVER TEN YEARS AGO. These are win-win situations if you totally understand color. Single fine needle.

CONSIDERATIONS IN APPROPRIATE CLIENT SELECTION WHEN UNDERTAKING ANY TYPE OF PARAMEDICAL OR SCAR CAMOUFLAGE PROCEDURE: • The emotional state of the client. Does the client have reasonable expectations for the result? Dramatic results can be achieved in many of these applications; however, the clients must understand that their skin will never be “good as new” again. After performing these procedures for some time, we become very intuitive discerning a client’s emotional state and expectations. Clients must understand that camouflage is not an exact science and can take multiple applica-

tions to achieve the desired result, depending upon the severity of their disfigurement. • Has the scar or disfigurement had adequate time to heal? On breastwork, I wait a minimum of three months, preferably six months and on other scars up to a year or until they are white. Client must complete all required interventions including additional surgery, chemotherapy, radiation, laser etc. before any re-pigmentation is commenced. The area being treated must be totally healed. • The reason client has come to you for consultation. Is it their desire or is it someone else’s? Proceed slowly, carefully and with caution. Not all potential clients that walk through your door can be corrected or improved. PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

BURN SCARS CAMOUFLAGE. This was a rewarding case, two procedures, eight weeks apart. If I had this type of case now fast-forward 2017 I would microneedle it, have her get sun exposure and see if she can get melanocyte reactivation.

BROW LIFT SCARS BEFORE AND AFTER.

ANESTHETIC CONSIDERATIONS FOR PARAMEDICAL AND CAMOUFLAGE PROCEDURES • In general, I do not use anesthetic during scar camouflage procedures especially any secondary topical that contain epinephrine, as it blanches out the skin and the scar borders often become lost very quickly. Topical and secondary anesthetic can and will blanch out the margins of your scar or other disfigurement. I do not use them

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

unless the area is well marked with a surgical pen prior to procedure. • For comfort, it is okay to use an occluded topical prior to procedure, but the area to be pigmented must be well marked beforehand with something such as a surgical pen. • If the client is concerned about discomfort, I suggest to them to bring a non-blood thinning medication prescribed by their doctor, as long as they have someone to transport them to and from my office.

EXPERT

SONIA ANDERSON UK SONIA.ANDERSON.961

BLACK SKIN AND PERMANENT MAKEUP PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

When treating Fitzpatrick skin types 4-6 you must treat the skin gently and look carefully at the area you are treating. Also look for signs of hyper and hypo-pigmentation as fluctuations in pigmentation are more common in this skin. These can be lighter or darker patches on the skin and will be flat. As with all skins regardless of the Fitzpatrick scale I will not perform a treatment if the skin has been exposed to the sun for lengthy times for up to 8 weeks after. It is a lot harder to apply the pigment and the retention can be poor in such cases.

As a permanent makeup ar tist, I feel that it is extremely important to know the differences in Fitzpatrick skins 4, 5 and 6. A black and Asian skin has a thicker and more compact dermis. This skin also has larger and more numerous sebaceous glands as well as more melanocytes. A black skin has a much quicker cellular renewal than a white skin as well as more and larger fibroblasts, which can be responsible for keloid scaring.

FITZPATRICK SCALE

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

CLIENT 1

KELOID SCARRING During the consultation, it is very important to check if your clients prone to keloid scaring. A darker skin must not be treated if evidence of keloid scaring is present, no exceptions must be made and do not feel pressured by the client. This is definitely a contra-indication. If you are unsure then perform a scratch test on an area of the client maybe behind the ear and check the healed results after 6 weeks. Ensure your client signs the consultation form agreeing to this test. Keloid scaring is more common in black skins due to fibroblasts producing too much collagen during the skin’s healing period (as a wound heals). The degree of scarring is dependent on the individual. A keloid is more commonly raised, they often appear shiny, hard; the area of the scar can be darker in colour. If you have performed a treatment and Keloid scaring has occured, do not carry out any further treatments as the keloid could become more raised. Advise your client to speak with their GP. Remember that any skin Fitzpatrick 1-6 can get a keloid but use caution and your own judgment when performing treatments on skin types prone to scarring. Over the years, I have worked on a lot of darker skinned clients and have had very good results; with the right technique a darker skin can enjoy the benefits of permanent makeup in full.

UNDERTONES OF A DARK SKIN Identifying the undertones of a dark skin can be more difficult, as there are the red, yellow, green or blue black ones. Generally, Fitzpatrick 4 and 5 will be yellow, red or green, while Fitzpatrick 6 — red or blue black.

Remember that the lips will always have a blue undertone so choose your lip pigments carefully and perform a colour test 6-8 weeks prior to the treatment.

PIGMENTS FOR BROWS AND LINER I currently work with several pigment ranges to ensure that I have a wide variety of colours for the different skin types, undertones and colour of the skin. For a Fitzpatrick 4/5 & 6 I recommend the following pigments and colours for eyebrows and eyeliner: • Li Pigments: - Ebony Brown, Espresso, Navajo, Dark toffee. • Dorem: - Chocolate Kiss, Choc Choc, Espresso, Java. • Micro Colours Ebony 1, Brow H.2, Blonde 2.

USEFUL TIPS • Add a drop of orange to any of the above colours to prevent the colour healing too cool. • Black pigment must never be used on a dark skin as it will turn blue. • Water based pigments seem to hold better in a dark skin due to the skin having larger sebaceous glands (oily skin). • I suggest regular yearly colour boosts as the skins natural cellular renewal is a lot quicker in a dark skin. I find that dark skin loses the pigment quicker at the bulb of the brow. However, I have experienced dark skin clients holding the pigment beautifully for up to 3 years. So, like all clients every skin type is unique and all skins regardless of the colour fade differently and retain the pigment for different amounts of time (See pic “Сlient 1”). • I find from my experience that the pigment goes into the skin better if the client uses gentle exfoliator each day for 1 week prior to the treatment.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

CLIENT 2

LIP PIGMENTS I find that I get most requests for a dark burgundy or bright red lip colour from my clients. This is not achievable on a dark lip client Fitzpatrick 5/6, as I have tried this and the colour will not hold even after 4 or 5 treatments. Due to the melanin content in the lips it is extremely difficult to perform a successful lip treatment of this colour as the natural lips are so dark (See pic “Сlient 2”). If you would like to try a lip treatment on your clients I suggest the following. As the lips will naturally be dark I would recommend to always apply an orange pigment for the first treatment. Then review the amount of pigment held and carefully discuss the possible colour that could be achieved after 2 or maybe 3 treatments. Some clients have a very pink inner part on the lips extending out towards the outer lip, caused by loss of melanin to the area. This can be covered selecting the right shade of brown to bring back the natural lip colour and is a very successful treatment. Remember, however, that the lips will naturally have a blue undertone, so very warm colours must always be applied.

NEEDLE DEPTH I always work much slower and with lighter pressure with the machine setting higher and have the needle

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

depth slightly less for a Fitzpatrick 4/5/6 skin. This way I can normally do less passes causing less damage to the skin and thus less risk of a keloid scar occurrence. I specialise in the combination or powder brows for my clients as this is the type of brow most commonly asked for. Eyeliner can also be performed on Fitzpatrick 4/5/6 (See pic “Сlient 3”). A hair stroke brow can look beautiful on Fitzpatrick 4/5 but remember – don’t go too deep as the crisp hair strokes can migrate in the skin having larger sebaceous glands and the pigment could heal very cool. On a Fitzpatrick 6 the skin is very dark, therefore a powder or combination brow would be a better choice (See pic “Сlient 4”). I also find that with a black skin the client is more sensitive to the treatment and that they have a lower pain threshold. I suggest numbing the area for at least 45 minutes.

TRAINING During my training courses, I always supply black or Asian models for brow and eyeliner treatments as I feel it’s very important to understand these skin types and it allows confidence when you have to work on such skin in your clinic.

CLIENT 3

CLIENT 4

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Our products speak to a new generation of artists, who are passionate about the recovery after their procedures. – Mariannthy Nicolaou

Mariannthy Nicolaou

is a licensed Medical Aesthetician with a C.I.D.E.S.C.O International Diploma, Cer tif ied Sof Tap International Instructor and the founder of Lasting Perfection Eco-green medi spa. Mariannthy is a certified Micropigmentation Specialist and Master Artist with more than 20,000 procedures performed over 15 years in the industry. Mariannthy's new MembraneTM Micropigmentation Post-Care Collection is now available. www.membranepostcare.com

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

I'm not an author, a professor, a chemist, a scientist, or a doctor. As a medical aesthetician and micropigmentation specialist, with an internationally recognized diploma from CIDESCO (the ‘Comité International d’Esthétique et de Cosmétologie’) most of what I’ve learned, I’ve learned by doing it. Over the last 16 years I have provided advanced skin treatments to thousands of clients, creating and refining my own techniques. During that time, I have been in a constant process of examining, re-examining and discovering new things about the largest organ in our bodies – the skin, our living canvas, the cutaneous membrane. The first thing to know and remember – the skin is alive! It is responsive, and dynamic, and the only limitation on it is a lack of understanding by those manipulating it. As the largest and arguably, most important organ of the body, it receives a considerable amount of trauma, particularly when artists overwork a specific area. For an idea of its complexity, in a single half square inch of skin there are millions of cells, over five hundred million nerve endings, fifty sebaceous (oil-secreting) glands, two hundred and fifty sweat glands and more than a yard of blood vessels. Let’s talk a little more about the structure of the skin. The main components are: the epidermis which is the outermost layer consisting of a sheet of layered cells known as the squamous epithelium, and the dermis which lies underneath and contains a thick network of connective tissue and fat. Now, “the sweet spot”: this is what I call the area that sits just above the dermis. Working too deep into the dermis means working in a “blow out”/”ash out” zone, and your work will heal poorly, with an ashy area of skin that can also cause the pigment to migrate. Above this zone, in the deepest epidermal layer, is the stratum germinativum – cells that have more volume (filled with fluid and a nucleus) and can form, move and reproduce. This layer is very special as it has the ability to repair the skin from injury, which is obviously important for procedures such as micropigmentation. The cells specialize in protecting the tissue beneath them, and the body as a whole, and as they move up towards the surface, (pushed outward by the more newly-created cells) they change their form several times to create the epidermis. They are forming the stratum basale/germinativum, and stratum spinosum, which together forming

Malpighian layer (stratum malpighi), then stratum granulosum and stratum lucidum, and, finally, the uppermost layer of the stratum corneum. In the stratum malphigi we find the melanin that gives colour to the skin. When working with clients who are a V or VI on the Fitzpatrick scale, you must be especially attentive to this because often you will have to take a pigment a few shades lighter than the brow area as it can become 2-3 shades darker than the original colour when it mixes with the melanin, giving the appearance of a blackish-brown tone. Moving outward to the lucidum, the cells start becoming very tightly packed, and traces of the nuclei can be found. This layer of our skin is found on the palms of our hands and the soles of our feet. Finally, in the stratum corneum, the cells lose their nuclei and their fluid content evaporates, allowing them to be stacked flatly, like sheets of paper. The cells have now fully transformed into keratin, a waterproof shield that is resistant to minor abrasions and highly protective. When trauma occurs to the skin, the damaged stratum corneum can be removed while cellular reproduction in the germinativum is stimulated which allows a new and undamaged skin cells formation. Now, in saying all of this, you can appreciate why post-care is one of the most important parts of the micropigmentation process. It’s still a science and there are other factors - you may have done everything right and the healing still wasn’t that great. It’s important to remember that all of the layers and their processes are reoccurring every few days, with cells moving around and upwards, as well as the flow of oil and blood. Over time, pigment becomes staggered as the cells separate and migrate closer to the surface, and new ones replace and displace them. The process cannot keep cells perfectly in place – they only look like stacks of paper!

As the pigment moves through each layer, and the body metabolizes the pigment, the PMU effect will similarly move and become less clear; this is one of the reasons you cannot stack hair strokes too close together, especially on the initial procedure because the pigment will “expand” slightly in the tissue as it migrates with the cells over the next 21-28 days following the procedure. It is better to add the strokes during a follow-up once the f irst cuts have been allowed to heal. Now that we’ve covered the basics of our living canvas, we can move on to talk about how to take care of it – what a wound is, and the four phases of healing. A dermal wound is an injury which damages the epidermis and dermis and typically results in a cut or scrape. There are different types of wounds depending on what caused them, and each type has a different method of treatment relating to where and how they occurred. For micropigmentation wounds, we will be dealing specifically with the cut type of wound. My experience has taught me that you cannot treat every area of the body, or even the same area on clients with different skin types, the exact same way. The eyes, as mucus membranes, must be treated differently than the forehead. The lips have more delicate tissue and more risk of infection, which makes sense considering their exposure to saliva. These are just a few examples of the many differences. All areas need to breathe while healing, but also require a unique barrier to protect them – what we call a ‘breathable barrier’, which promotes healing and prevents infection. So then, what does healing involve? Healing is a response to an injury, initiating a sequence of events. With the exception of bone, all tissues heal with some external scarring. The goal of proper care is to minimize

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

infection and scarring, and thereby promote better healing. When working with eyes, you definitely do not want anything to clog the tear ducts, which would greatly increase the chances of infection, as well as dry eye and ingrown lashes. Also, certain ingredients and essential oils such as basil, patchouli, rosemary, clove bud, eucalyptus, cypress, wintergreen, juniper berry, frankincense etc., should never be put on or near the eyes, as they can be highly irritating, can cause severe inflammation of the eyelids tissues, bilateral superficial corneal scarring and even damage of the cornea. Substances considered ‘stimulating’ for the skin should not be used near any mucus membrane, meaning eyes, mouth, nose and even ears areas.

The Four Phases of Healing Are: • Phase 1: Hemostasis (when acute damage occurs) • Phase 2: Inflammatory • Phase 3: Proliferative • Phase 4: Maturation Epithelialization (remodelling) The inflammatory phase begins with the injury of micropigmentation itself. In response to the injury there is bleeding, an immediate narrowing of the blood vessels, clot formation, and a release of various chemicals into the wound area to aid the subsequent phases of the healing process. Over the course of several days, the immune response generates specialized cells called ‘macrophages’ to clear the wound of debris; the pigment that you see in the skin is actually suspended in these macrophages. The white blood cells, enzymes, and growth factors contribute to the swelling, heat, pain, and redness.

In the following proliferative phase, a matrix or latticework of cells forms. On this matrix, new skin cells and blood vessels will begin to form. It is the growth of new small blood vessels (capillaries) that gives a wound its pink or purple-red appearance. These new blood vessels will supply the rebuilding cells with oxygen and nutrients to sustain growth and support the production of proteins, primarily collagen. Collagen acts as the framework upon which the new tissues build, and is the dominant substance in the final scar. After two to three weeks (21-28 days), with the change of skin cycle, the proliferative/remodelling phase begins. The framework of collagen becomes more organized, making the tissue stronger. New formed blood vessels are constructed, and myofibroblasts pull the wound edges together to protect the tissues. The blood vessel density lessens, and the wound begins to lose its pinkish/purple-red colour. Over the next six months, the new tissue continues to increase in strength, eventually reaching approximately 80% the strength of uninjured skin. The f inal phase, maturation/epithelialization, involves the laying down of new skin (epithelial) cells. The skin forms a protective barrier between the outer environment and the body, its primary purpose being to protect against excessive water loss and the intrusion of bacteria. This is why a suitable breathable barrier is the key during the healing process when the body has not yet replaced the skin that would normally protect it. Reconstruction of this layer begins within a few hours of the injury, and can be completed within 24-48 hours with a clean and properly cared for wound. Open wounds may take seven to ten days, because the inflammatory process is prolonged, which contributes to scarring. Scarring occurs when the injury extends beyond the f irst deep layer of the epidermis and into the dermis. Keeping the PMU area clean and properly dressed during the healing process aids in the overall success of the procedure. Synthetic oils and high oleic acid oils, which can potentially clog the pores (depending on the concentration used), and encourage more bacterial growth, are not suitable for healing a wound like PMU. Examples of oils that are high in oleic acid content are: cocoa butter, virgin coconut oil, olive oil, jojoba golden oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, wheat germ oil, safflower high oleic oil, flaxseed/linseed oil, avocado oil, sea buckthorn oil, and unprocessed shea butter. This is not to say that these oils and butters are not useful in other ways, but I do not recommend them for topical wound care. Synthetic oils actually stop the skin from breathing by blocking and suffocating the pores, as well as containing toxic chemicals. In order to heal properly and quickly, your skin needs to breathe, so comedogenic (pore clogging) products should be avoided.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Af ter- care products that carr y petroleum or mineral oil, or a list of synthetic ingredients should be avoided. Additionally, I would not recommend ‘pulling oils’ (such as coconut, olive or sesame oils) for PMU healing. Straight oils such as grape seed oil don’t provide enough support after the trauma of micropigmentation, particularly microblading. On the other end of the spectrum, I highly recommend hemp (cannabis) oil, high linoleic safflower and argan oils. The hemp (cannabis sativum) oil in particular has remarkable healing and moisturizing properties for those with oily and sensitive skin, or issues with redness and inflammation such as eczema or psoriasis. After cleaning the wound, applying a thin layer of ointment allows the surface to remain moist but discourages infection, promoting a clean environment with a breathable barrier for the body’s natural healing processes to close the wound efficiently. More efficient healing means better tissue repair and, in turn, less scarring. There is a fine line between over-caring and under-caring for any micropigmentation; post-care should just involve gently cleaning the pigmentation area and keeping it free of blood, lymph, or bacteria. Facial micropigmentation sites, such as eyes and lips, are especially difficult to keep clean, and led me to develop a specialized product – the Membrane Micro Tonic. After getting facial micropigmentation, every artist has his own method of healing their tattoos, and much of it is trial and error. This also leads to the problem I mentioned earlier – treating all tattoos and skin types in the same way, and expecting them to respond identically. Still, there are a few important rules. Never rub the tattoo area with a towel, rather pat it dry or allow it to dry on its own. Using a micropigmentmation-specif ic skin cleanser that is free from the ingredients mentioned earlier is vital. Colour retention is in equal parts depth and aftercare combined – like with fitness, you can’t accomplish your goal by only exercising or only dieting, you need a combined approach to find success.

(Above) Nicolaou performing a micropigmentation procedure on a patient. MembraneTM Products are 100% Natural & Cruelty-Free, and contain no petroleum or synthetic ingredients .

Understanding the skin from the scientific point of view, with an appreciation for its complexities and for the differences in each area, is what led me to create my own line of products. For a long time, the existing techniques and products for aftercare didn’t make sense to me – for example in an oily skin type, everything is much more active than in a dry skin type. The pores are larger, there are more sebaceous secretions which in turn encourages more bacterial growth; there’s more exfoliation and cellular turnover, and more blood flow; this is why PMU doesn’t generally last as long on oily skin types as it does on drier skin. Oily skin can have (unsurprisingly) an abundance of oil, but it can also have very little moisture, and so I created the Membrane Micro Gel product to aid in PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

hydration without adding oil to the skin, which helps to keep scarring and scabbing at a minimum. Now, in saying this, I’m not claiming that it’s impossible to get a scar or a scab, particularly if you do something like microblading the same spot multiple times (as I’ve seen in videos of incorrectly performed procedures) – at that point, you’d probably need a suture instead of a hydration product. If the skin is overworked, there isn’t much that aftercare products can do, but the basics still need to be covered for healing to occur; a breathable barrier from the beginning that is hydrating and nourishing to the cells, ideally with some or all of the properties of being antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antioxidant and providing wound support as well as reducing skin irritation. Keeping the skin clean and hydrated provides the best chance of healing well, regardless of the skin type. All the above mentioned issues led me to formulate the Membrane after-care collection, a line of six products that address the major categories of aftercare needs. Each product is 100% natural, cruelty-free, made in Canada, non-comedogenic, free of petroleum and synthetic ingredients, and has 100% breathable barrier - the result of almost two decades of research and experience. I called my products “Membrane” to emphasize the importance of viewing the cutaneous membrane (our skin) as a complete and complex organ, rather than just a site to work on. It’s true that skin, our living canvas, is incredibly complex – there’s a lot going on in there! But caring for your skin with after-care doesn’t have to be complicated. You can try decades of trial and error, or you can benefit from the experience of technicians and artists, like me, who have already explored what works and what doesn’t. I hope that you’ve learned a little something about the cutaneous membrane, and that it enhances your own practice!

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

For more information on the MembraneTM Micropigmentation Post-Care product line, or to or der, visit w w w.membr anepos tc ar e.com, or call 1 (519) 601-BALM (2256)

MICRO BALM for dry and ‘normal’ skin types post micropigmentation, and also excellent for chronically dry and achy hands MICRO GEL specifically formulated for oilier skin types. SOOTHING MICRO TONIC to efficiently cleanse healing skin post micropigmentation. MICRO PCR (Post Care Removal) to be applied between days 5-7 after pigment removal. 4LIPS which specifically supports the unique needs of the lip tissue. 4EYES which addresses the highly sensitive skin around the eyes 100% NATURAL · CRUELTY-FREE NO PETROLEUM · NO SYNTHETIC INGREDIENTS 100% BREATHABLE BARRIER NON-COMEDOGENIC

Made in Canada

Our products speak to a new generation of artists who are passionate about the recovery after their procedures.

MicroTonicTM • Refreshes and Cleanses • Power-packed nutrients • Anti-inflammatory support • Revitalizes traumatized tissue • Hydrating • Cooling Relief ALL SKIN TYPES Soothing Traumatized Skin Available in 16 oz. for backbar, and disposable wipes for post-procedure care.

MicroBalmTM • Powerful post-care balm • Prevents transepidermal water loss • Greatly reduces discomfort • Supports accelerated healing post-micropigmentation • Nutrition for the skin ALL SKIN TYPES Soothing Traumatized Skin Available in 2 oz. & pillow packs (5 ml) for use post-procedure.

100% Natural ∙ Cruelty-Free No Petroleum ∙ No Synthetic Ingredients 100% Breathable Barrier ∙ Non-Comedogenic

ORDER NOW (519) 601-BALM (2256)

www.membranepostcare.com PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

BUSINESS

VEERA GORLATOVA USA W W W.PMESTHETICS.COM

BUSINESS PROCESS AUTOMATION There is probably no such person in the world who would not like to save his\her own hard-earned money. Naturally, there are some exceptions, when money is earned by other people, and you have no idea how exactly they do it; it is not even something you are interested in as your main aim is to spend this money. Unfortunately (or luckily?), I have never considered myself one of those people, since everything I did was done by myself. Several times in my life I started businesses from scratch, took loans and got into debt. I believe that most beginners are familiar with the feeling when you are about to start making money and it seems that here it is, soon it will get rolling and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be on easy street... However, any business requires development. There are new pigments and modern machines that you would like to use; there are master-classes and conferences that you would like to attend in order to make progress and achieve more. The number of clients is growing; competitors are coming to a place near you. Therefore, in order to move forward, a huge part of the income should be spent on advertising, promotion

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

and maintenance of the site, as well as regular posts on social networks (including the work of administrators, design, adverts, etc.) Those artists who decide to open their own studio, school, or/and organize and conduct master-classes, usually spend a lot of time and money on advertising and other things connected with their business. However, not many of them realize that it is possible to significantly reduce costs without sacrificing quality whilst saving a lot of time. We can all agree that time is one of the most valuable things in our life. Instead of dedicating it all to your business, you could spend time with your family, or doing things that you really love, or even just relaxing. If you ever thought about the above, then this article is definitely for you! Basing it on my personal experience, I will share my knowledge with you; in this article you will find out about all the possible and accessible ways to save your money and time without compromising quality. In other words, I am going to tell you about business process automation in detailâ&#x20AC;Śbut let me start from the beginning.

1. Business cards and printed matter Nowadays, there are a lot of accessible websites with ready-made designs of business cards, leaflets, advertising brochures, invitations, posters, certificates, etc. Companies employ professionals who create different versions of design templates to suit all tastes. The entire process of searching for a designer, approving images, colors and fonts is now completely automated by large design companies, which makes it easier for customers. All you need to do is just go to the website, choose a design that appeals to you, enter your text and all the necessary information — and that is all! Your order will be delivered to your home address or to your office within 1-2 weeks.

es, and so on. Surely, there are better ways to spend time. There is a wonderful and, most importantly, free website which can really help you — www.canva.com. Just like in the case of business cards, the site offers a huge selection of ready-made banners, headers, posters, and logos. Choose a design, change the font, add your photos and save to your computer. That is all! www.canva.com

www.vistaprint.com www.zazzle.co.uk www.printclick.ru www.printdesign.ru www.vizitka.ua

2. Banners, headers, posters, and logos So the business cards are ready, gift certificates are sold out, and banners are attached to the walls. What is next? Now it is necessary to create your own style, to develop a logo, and to advertise your brand/ company on social networks. It is possible to face a situation when you are looking for a designer for ages, trying to find someone who will understand you completely. There can be a lot of disagreements when choosing colors for the banner for social networks, or pictures and photographs to advertise master-class-

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

3. Professional photographs and video If you need photos or videos for your website, logo, poster, etc., it is not a good idea to search for them on the Internet. Eventually you might really regret wasting your time when having found a photo or video you post it somewhere, and then receive a notification from the owner of this photo or video, asking you to remove the image or the file that belongs to him/her. It is better to use the database of free stock photo sites, or photo banks where professional photographers sell their works. The cost of photographs and videos depends on the extension and quality of work; it can vary from 5-1000 dollars per image, but they are worth it. You will pay much more hiring a professional photographer, while photo banks can help you save your money — and time. Moreover, this is one of the opportunities for you to make some money, too — if you have good quality photos, you can sell them in the future. www.shutterstock.com www.fotolia.com www.istockphoto.com

4. Website Creating a website can be one of the most difficult, stressful and costly stages of business administration. After all, there are several specialists involved in the development process, each of them doing their own job at their own stage. Each stage requires your attention and time for discussion, agreement and approval. You are lucky if you can find great specialists straight away.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Unfortunately, I was not very lucky (without going into details). It might be difficult to believe but I can honestly say that I did not pay a single cent for the creation of my website. I got the website for free, and it took me approximately a week to make it. In general, I guess it would be accurate to say that I made it by myself. How did I do it? With the use of an automated system, in my case it was www.wix.com. Using the same system as those websites with business cards and logo designs, Wix offers lots of ready-made web designer developments. You can choose any type that

appeals to you, adjust it according to your specifics, insert pictures, texts and here you go, your website is ready! The only payment required is for hosting which makes your website available on the Internet. If you need to add photographs or a text, change ads, or do any other adjustments, it will be not necessary to ask anyone to help you as all the changes are going to take you about 10 minutes! There are other similar websites offering ready-made web design projects, but having tried them, I still highly recommend www.wix.com.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

5. Appointments and online registration Here comes the day when everything seems to be going well — business cards are distributed, certificates are selling like hot cakes, the website is popular, all things are in full swing... and you realize that you simply don’t have enough hours in the day to answer phone calls, make appointments for your customers, explain to them on the phone the difference between microblading and soft shading techniques, etc. Moreover, even if you have a secretary or administrator, they can sometimes get sick, or something else might happen — the point here is that this type of work can also be automated. Therefore, the next essential stage is for you to set up an online system that will help to keep all the information about your customers, enable online registration and appointments, remind customers about their next visit to you, send congratulations on their birthday, send out promo-messages, sort out your accounting and so on and so forth. Some systems

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

have an option of promoting your business on social networks. Don’t miss this opportunity! I have chosen the Square system, but there are similar programs developed and adapted specifically for your country. www.square.com www.y-clients.com www.sonline.su You should use all the opportunities to automate your business process. Computers can really make your life much easier. As IT specialist Paul Leary once said: "What really pleases me about computers is that they never argue or disagree with you, they remember everything, and they’ll never drink all your beer." That’s a sentiment we can all agree with — it is better to drink beer with your friends!  Hopefully, after reading this article you will have a little more time for this!

Distributors wanted Before

After

Before

After

Nouveau Contour is market leader in all 25 countries where distributed. Come join us! Since 1997, Nouveau Contour is an innovator and knowledge leader in the industry. Providing the best quality education, high quality equipment, needles and pigments. Our total turnkey concept is a guarantee for success. This has been proven time and again; in all countries where distributed, Nouveau Contour is the leading brand in micropigmentation. • Leading brand worldwide • Innovator and knowledge leader • High quality equipment, needles, pigments and education • Nouveau Contour Master Academy

“GREAT TEACHING, NEEDLES, PIGMENTS, EVERYTHING... JUST THE TOTAL CONCEPT” - NOUVEAU CONTOUR DISTRIBUTOR DENMARK

• Total Concept • Turnkey marketing package • >20 years of experience

www.nouveaucontour.com export@nouveaucontour.com +31 88 515 5810

BUSINESS

ANASTASIA KHARINA UK ANASTASIA.KHARINA

W W W.KHARINAMEDIA.COM

THE POWER OF SOCIAL MEDIA If you are only entering the permanent makeup or beauty industry and already have an established salon and maybe an artist working within it, Online Marketing should be an integral part of your marketing strategy. Being part of the social media world is no longer an option for your business, but a necessity. In case you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t noticed, this social media thing is kind of a big deal! So let's talk about the most effective and popular social media platforms.

Where to start: 1. Create your page as a brand/salon or artist. 2. A name for your Page and a blurb about your business. Your Page name can be your business name or another name that people may search for to find your business. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to fill the about section to tell people a little bit about what your business does. 3. Choose awesome catchy profile photo and create cover image. Choose photos that represent your business well. You can use your logo as your profile photo and an image of your shop or product.

FACEBOOK. Having your business on Facebook has the potential to drive traffic to your website through creating a trustworthy brand. With clear posts for your consumers you can encourage comments, shares and conversations on topics that matter the most. The digital movement is not just about how many likes a post can get, but more about engaging with an audience and getting noticed by the relevant search engines.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

4. The action that you want people to take when they come to your Page. At the top of your Page you can add a call to action that directs your page visitors to do something, such as visit your website or phone your shop. Adding a call-to-action button is as easy as a few clicks. How to get likes for your page? STEP 1: FILL OUT YOUR FACEBOOK PAGE WITH SEARCHABLE INFORMATION To grow your number of Facebook fans, every

section of your page should include content that's relevant and helpful, but also searchable. Remember: all of the content on your page will be indexed by search engines, helping you to attract more fans to your page. You should spend time optimizing each section of your page with keywords appropriate for your business. For example, if you are offering permanent make up, it must list all possible treatments (lips permanent makeup, eyebrows permanent makeup, natural permanent makeup, eyes permanent makeup etc.), it will also be vital to include any qualities that make your business stand out, as well as the location and detailed information about you or your artist working within the business. For example, once you’ve created your Facebook Page, make sure the about section of your page includes: • An overview of what your business has to offer; • A link to your website; • Any other information that will help understand your business better. STEP 2: INCLUDE FACEBOOK “LIKE” BOXES ON YOUR WEBSITE AND BLOG Making your Facebook Page as discoverable as possible includes promoting your Facebook presence using the marketing channels you already have, and removing any barriers for existing contacts to like your page. If you have a website or blog, use Facebook’s various social plugins to get people to “like” your page without having to go over to Facebook.com. While Facebook Like Button allows users to “like” individual pieces of content on the web and share them on Facebook, the Like Box is designed only for Facebook Pages. The Like Box is a great way to leverage social proof to amplify your page.

From there, you can upload a maximum of 7,000 contacts per day per page — and a maximum of 5,000 contacts at a time. STEP 4: INVITE EMPLOYEES/ COLLEAGUES TO LIKE YOUR PAGE People are more likely to “like” pages that already have some sort of following, and your employees/colleagues can help your business build its initial numbers. After all, they are your strongest and most effective brand advocates. Ask them to like the official Facebook Page. Then, encourage them to share/like, and comment on the content your team posts on Facebook too.

STEP 3: INVITE EXISTING CONTACTS TO “LIKE” YOUR PAGE Chances are, you already have friends, family, and existing customers who would be more than willing to connect with your business on Facebook. All you need to do is ask. Whether in person, via email, or via Facebook, try asking for “likes” and positive reviews. Just be cautious about over-promoting to uninterested connections. You can also encourage existing connections to become fans by making it more likely that they'll see a suggestion on Facebook to like your page. How? You'll have to upload a list of emails to Facebook, and those from that list who are on Facebook will be made more likely to see a suggestion to like your page in places like "Recommended Pages." Your contacts that aren't on Facebook won't see this suggestion. To upload a list of email contacts through Facebook, open the "Build Audience" menu (located at the top right of your Facebook Page) and select "Invite Email Contacts". PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Employees who really want to share the love might include a link to your Facebook Page in their email signatures or on their personal social media profiles. You can also offer exchange “favor likes”, as you propose to like someone’s brand/page in exchange of them doing the same to you. STEP 5: INCORPORATE FACEBOOK INTO YOUR OFFLINE COMMUNICATION CHANNELS Have a physical storefront? Think about ways to encourage patrons to become Facebook fans. Here are some ideas to get you started: • Place stickers in your front windows promoting your page's name; • Include your Facebook URL on your receipts; • Run a promotion where customers who become Facebook fans on the spot get small discounts. Market your business offline? Include links to your

Facebook Page and other social media profiles on printed ads, flyers, coupons, catalogs, business cards, and direct mail assets. STEP 6: CROSS PROMOTE ON T WIT TER AND LINKEDIN. Add a link to your Facebook Page on your business's Twitter, Instagram, YouTube and LinkedIn profiles (and your personal profile, for that matter). STEP 7: POST RIGHT CONTENT The best way to increase your following on Facebook is by treating your fans like people, and that means consistently delivering content that is valuable to them. If you are permanent makeup artist, make sure you stick to it, not throwing some random cat or food photos on your page, keep it professional.

PHOTOS AND VIDEOS. This is one of the most important and effective selling tool for permanent makeup and beauty business. Your content must have 80% before and after photos and relevant videos about the treatment. We are a visual culture. Images capture the imagination and help us understand context without needing to read the fine print. In this age of high mobile-device engagement, having good marketing photos is more important than ever before. Make sure you learn how to take good photos, if you don’t know how to do it take a relevant course.

STEP 8: BE ACTIVE Getting more Facebook “likes” isn't just about profile optimization and an initial push. To continue growing steadily, you need to maintain an active, ongoing presence. Not only does this mean posting educational, insightful content on a regular basis, but it also means monitoring your presence and interacting with your fans. Ask questions, answer questions, and participate in discussions with those posting on your page. Find, follow, and build relationships with others in your industry. Create a presence worth following. Post about latest trends, promotions, feedback from your customers, and some useful advice to your consumers about permanent makeup, aftercare etc. Announce new treatments and training you have completed.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

STEP 9: USE FACEBOOK ADS TO EXPAND YOUR REACH Growing your Facebook Likes organically is the best way to drive engagement and, ultimately, convert fans into customers. But if you have the budget for it, incorporating some paid advertising into your Facebook strategy can help augment the hard work you're already putting in. Facebook offers a type of ad called a "Page Like Ad," which contains a Call To Action suggesting that users Like your Facebook Page. These ads can appear in users' News Feeds or in the ad column on the right-hand side of their web browser when they're on Facebook.

INSTAGRAM. As a photo centric, click-happy generation there are more than 5 million consumers sharing posts through Instagram. With quality images of your products and services there is no need to limit yourself in the online world. Statistics are showing that more and more consumers research a business online before committing to purchasing a product or service, so be active across as many platforms as possible while that reaches your target audience. Instagram is easily one of the largest social media networks in the world and currently ranks only behind Facebook and YouTube for the top spot. Visual content simply engages others like no other platform with its lengthy single-scroll system where the content takes up the majority of your smartphone or tablet screen. Think about how much more engaged you’d be if you had to scroll through each Tweet one at a time—you would likely give more attention to each post. In fact, a report from Forrester discovered Instagram posts drive more engagement by up to 120 times that of a Tweet. Content of your posts has the same idea as for Facebook page I mentioned earlier on.

INSTAGRAM HASHTAGS ARE YOUR BEST FRIENDS As a rule of thumb, hashtags are a great source of discover y on Instagram. Whether you want to increase your visibility or f ind exactly what you’re looking for, hashtags for Instagram are the best way to do so. Always make sure you’re looking for the newest and latest hashtags that relate to your industry. The hashtag doesn’t have to exactly correlate with your brand, but it should still be relevant. Hashtags help you get that extra reach outside of your own follower base so you can increase your audience and be seen.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

• Pinterest — Hashtags work in the Pin description only, and the hashtag search ability is pretty limited. • Google — Using hashtags is a must. The great thing about Google+ is that you can use hashtags in your comments and in your posts, which gives you double the engagement power. Google+ is highly favorable towards hashtags, since they build them directly into the search functionality, and provide a hashtag sidebar featuring other hashtagged posts. • YouTube — Hashtag power is limited. You can definitely use them, but most of the engagement happens in comment threads.

WHERE SHOULD I USE HASHTAGS? Every major social media platform allows hashtags, so you can use them anywhere you want. Here are some insider tips for each platform. • Facebook — Hashtags are still trying to catch on. Most Facebook users aren’t used to pressing the # key. Don’t let this keep you from using them! 1-2 hashtags is about right. Any more than that, and you’ll start to lose engagement.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

• Twitter — Twitter is the mother of all hashtagging social media platforms. Hashtag to your heart’s content. Virtually nothing is off limits. Keep in mind that the sweet number of hashtags is two. Hashtag any more than that, and you’re going to diminish your engagement. By the way, if you’re using sponsored Tweets (ads), don’t use hashtags since they can distract from your CTA. • Instagram — Go all out with Instagram hashtags. The highest Instagram engagement comes to posts having 11 or more hashtags.

How are you going to use hashtags to grow your business? 1. START (OR CONTINUE) A CONVERSATION With a single hashtag, you can organize ongoing discussions, allowing different voices across social media to join in. Using hashtags allows you to keep a steady stream of your social media content in search results so that even those watching can follow along.

Create hashtag with your name or business name: #NAMEpermanentmakeup #namepmu etc.

2. Cross-Promote Across Social Networks Now that so many social media platforms use hashtags as a way to aggregate posts, you can also use them to cross-promote your content. Find (or create) an applicable hashtag that represents your brand, product or service and use it on all of your accounts. For example, including just one hashtag on Instagram can boost your engagement levels by an average of 12.6 percent. The most popular hastags for permanent makeup: #permanentmakeup #micropigmentation #makeup #eyebrows #semipermanentmakeup #eyebrowtattoo #brows #pmu #cosmetictattoo #beauty #hairstrokes #tattoo

4. Use Locations If you run a business with a local audience base, hashtag your city or town name to attract local customers. This narrows down your audience targeting from global to local, and gives you the best chance of attracting the people who are most likely to make a purchase. Search your local areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hashtag and see what content comes up.

3. Crowdsource Your Content Set up hashtags that encourage your clients to upload photos for the chance to be featured on your page. It can be a photo of their permanent makeup or beauty treatment result.

Twitter, Pinterest, LinkedIn, Trip Advisor, Blogs, YouTube and Social Platforms also quite effective if you have time to manage them all.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

action. Trip Advisor allows for reviews, social engagement and interaction through ratings from real life customers, so that your future potential customers can relate and have confidence in your business as a whole.

TWITTER. Those familiar with Twitter will know the importance of the #. By using the hashtag to engage with current trending topics, a business is able to engage with consumers on points of interest of their own. From a single 140 characters per post, businesses can engage thousands of people who are interested in certain products and services. Through re-sharing posts and content a business creates an online reputation that sets them apart from other competitors online.

PINTEREST. Through picture format, businesses can engage with consumers and create strong business ties in your field. Following Twitter, Pinterest was launched in 2010 as a visual search engine. The importance of the hashtag comes into play when sharing posts and comments here also. Pinterest is visual searching at its best; it expands the target audience a business is able to reach through being much more than just a post of rich content.

LINKEDIN. LinkedIn marketing can help a business in the digital age to find new customers and make new business connections. By growing a brand online your business has a purpose in the digital age and it also creates credibility amongst other businesses. Establish, connect and engage with your target consumers to share valuable content and turn followers into potential business customers.

TRIP ADVISOR. Having a successful online reputation in the digital world is vital for consumer inter-

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

BLOGS. For improved brand awareness, increased rankings in focus areas, links to trusted sources and relevant news topics covered, a blog can really be the diving board for your success. Sharing is caring and First Digital Media help all businesses get the best results from their social media strategies through content rich posts and much more.

YOUTUBE. As the second largest search engine in the digital age, YouTube is where your business needs to be. With more than 4 billion videos watched everyday around the world, your business channel could be next. As long as you educate, entertain and provide solutions to your target audienceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s problems, you are sure to create a fan base you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even know you had! SOCIAL PLATFORMS Establishing your business as an industry expert plays a part in your online reputation across numerous platforms. Social profiles also play a part in exposure on sites such as Google, the leading search engine in the digital age. First Digital Media would only ever advise a business to cover the platforms suited to them as long as you make the most of it. There is no use in creating profiles that are dormant in the digital age. I hope that this article will help you to get into the world of social media and online marketing. It may sound overwhelming but you can only start with Facebook and Instagram which with these alone will have a huge affect on your business and brand awareness. Good luck!

MASTER CLASS

MILENA KACAVENDA SERBIA Milena Kacavenda is a Microblading and PMU trainer from Belgrade, Serbia with more than 4 years of experience. Speaker on many world conferences and Member of jury on European and World Championships, Organizer of the 1st Balkan International PMU Congress and the owner and president of "Milena International Permanent Makeup Academy" as well. PMUMILENA W W W.SEDUCTIVE.RS

FEATHER STYLE TECHNIQUE Feather style by Milena is the technique which combines microblading and manual shading; it was created due to the means to crush monotonous hair strokes, which most of teachers use around the world on a "copy-paste" basis. This technique serves as a subtle approach of con-

necting microbladed hair strokes and gentle shading, especially if there are existing problems like complete absence of hair or improperly placed thick and strong strokes, as the difference between drawn and natural hair must be almost invisible in order to achieve natural look.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

BEFORE THE PROCEDURE

AFTER THE PROCEDURE

EYEBROW DESIGN: We begin the procedure with a close look at the skin we work with in order to avoid skin disorder. Don’t forget to take a picture of the client’s eyebrows before the procedure. After disinfecting facial surface we start with the drawing of a proper eyebrow shape using golden ratio caliper and special pencil. After the consultation with the client in regards to the eyebrow shape we copy the same proportions on the second eyebrow.

RIGHT PIGMENT: Before drawing hair strokes, we need to choose the right pigment based on the client's skin type and natural color of existing natural hair, in order to avoid unwanted color transformation in healed result.

DRAWING THE HAIR STROKES WITH MICROBLADING: We start drawing the hair stokes using 14 slope blade with a little pigment on the tip of the blade from the bulb (beginning) to the tail of the brow, imitating natural growing hair stokes. Make sure that the depth isn't more than 1 mm. Each time for а new hair stoke you’re supposed to take a bit of pigment. After drawing hair strokes, wipe the brow and put the topical anesthetic.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

A D D I T I O N A L S T RO K E S

ADDITIONAL STROKES Repeat the procedure on the second eyebrow. Whilst the anesthetic is still active, we return to the previous eyebrow and begin to fill in the strokes two or three times.

PIGMENT MASK After the hair strokes have been filled, put the color mask for 10 minutes, then wipe the eyebrows and start shading.

SHADING: Eyebrow shading must follow the needs of the client, not the fashion trends. We shade the bare skin between hair strokes using shading needles. For a bigger surface you can use 9 or 15 double row needle, and for a smaller one - 5 or 7 round needle. Needles should be at an angle of 90 degrees. We start shading gently with tapping motion in layers. Creating effect of lighter color takes fewer layers, while the darker color effect needs more layers. After shading we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use the color mask. Take a picture of the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eyebrows after completion of the procedure.

AFTER CARE During the first day after the procedure, the client needs to wash eyebrows with pH neutral soap and warm water, dry them with a cotton pad and apply the healing cream every hour. The cream should be applied minimum 5 times during the first day, in order to avoid scabs. Starting from the second day within the next 6 days, the healing cream should be applied 3 times a day. The client can use Bepanthen cream, vaseline or any other type of healing cream.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

MASTER CLASS

DARINA SALATHOVA SLOVAKIA DARINA_SALATHOVA_PMU_STUDIO

Her professional career in the world of beauty began in 1993, when she graduated as a beautician. After graduating she opened her own studio of cosmetics right away. Darina has been working as a permanent makeup designer since 1994. Today Darina is a permanent makeup & visage artist, the owner of a permanent makeup studio and beauty center, and a permanent makeup instructor. Since 2013 she has been offering permanent makeup courses in her studio, teaching beginners the rudiments of this rapidly evolving profession.

LUSCIOUS LIPS BEFORE

AFTER

The lips of the client had rather inaccurate contours. Her desire was to have a beautifully shaped outline of the lips and the effect of the full lips. I decided to use the full shading technique with the same color on the contour.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

CHOICE OF SHAPE AND COLORS The technique of luscious lips lies in its fineness and compactness. We choose fresh but warm shades of pink, peach or coral. Movements with the pen are soft and smooth. Firstly we will assess the client's lips, define skin undertones; we will discuss the colors and the desired results. If your client has her favorite lipstick or contour pencil with her that can help, too. We have to find the best shape suitable for the client’s facial symmetry; draw with a sharp pencil with the color similar to what is expected as the result of the procedure, or its color should correspond as much as possible to what the client wants. There are special pre-tensioning pencils, but it is very difficult to remove the sketch, because they stay on the skin. I therefore work with an ordinary pencil of the same brand as pigments. We start from the middle of the upper lip — the so-called heart. We shouldn´t stretch the skin. The lower lip will be drawn from the middle to the side corners. Overdraw the whole contour with a white colored pencil to see the accuracy of the shape. Try the chosen pigments right on her skin. It is perfect if the lady laughs a little or talks, so we can see the symmetry of the shape/

ANESTHESIA Apply the anesthetic gel very carefully as the drawn contour must be omitted to preserve the selected shape. The sensitivity of the lips is quite pronounced, so we have to wait for some time until the necessary level of numbness is achieved before we can start working. Gently press the handkerchief to dry the skin.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

PIGMENTATION OF THE OUTLINE Outline the border of the lip with the one point needle using the chosen color; the skin has to be stretched. After the first tattooing of the contour apply the numbing gel again. Improve the second outline with the same color diluted with a drop of diluents. The movement is very slow; the skin is stretched in two directions. Lip shading without a contour can only be performed on young women with full lips. Many professionals prefer full shading without contouring, but my opinion is that the contour closes the edges of the lips. In the older age the lip becomes blurred, so it is very important to choose the right edge â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the lip frame.

BEGINNING THE LIP FILLING We need to replace the needle to 5 or 7 point, and incline it to a 45 degree angle. We work with oblique movements from the contour towards the inside one way and then the opposite. The skin is stretched, the movement is slow, and the speed is medium.

CIRCLES Then, with slow movements we create medium size rings. The needle should touch the skin very lightly. This step is repeated twice; the skin is stretched all the time. Circles are done regularly next to each order to ensure that the lip is fully covered with color. The device speed is medium.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

ZIGZAG STROKES Using the same needle we move with horizontal zigzag strokes on the whole lip area, controlling the possible missed paths. It is recommended to use magnifying lens with the lamp. During the work wipe the pigment to see its attachment in the skin. Skin pressure is minimal. Towards the inside the skin becomes thinner, so it is necessary to slow the hand movement.

SMALL CIRCLES We move back to the contour and with very small rings we fill in the area between the contour and shading using diluted pigment again. This step is very important for the final result. Circles should be done close to the edge of the shape; there must be no gaps.

THE FINAL RESULT Carefully clean the skin with a cotton swab moistened with a green soap. After the treatment I always recommend soaping with soothing ointment made specifically for this purpose. After finishing, draw the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attention to the importance of post-procedural home care, because the final outcome depends to a large extent on this.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

GALLERY OF ARTISTS

ANNA LAKSTIGALA UK Anna has been a PMU artist since 2013. She is certified in fine arts, beauty therapy, microneedling and laser tattoo removal. Anna has completed multiple advanced trainings in permanent makeup and participated in several conferences in UK, Europe and Russia to develop her existing technique. Anna likes to share her knowledge and tips through the Advanced Masterclasses that she has designed for experienced technicians. Enhancing natural beauty, boosting clients' self-esteem and making them feel irresistible, that's what makes Anna fully enjoy her work. Personal approach to each customer and ability to understand what end result the client wants to achieve helped Anna to create a good client base and strong reputation. Winner of UK PMU Championship 2015 in Senior Category.

LIKECOLIBRI

W W W.LIKECOLIBRI.COM

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

GALLERY OF ARTISTS

VIKKI CHAN HONG KONG After graduation from the University of Wales as an MBA, Vikki Chan has started her career in the beauty industry. During her service with some renowned brands for more than 17 years, she focused on brand franchising, business network development and retail management, primarily in the Greater China region. She has also been working in metropolises such as Berlin, Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen and Taipei for 11 years and was appointed as the CEO and Regional Sales Head of AMIEA® in Asia. Since 2011 she has been one of the International Master Trainers of AMIEA® and AMIEA vytal® with over 2000 students around the globe.

VIKKI.JIN

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

GALLERY OF ARTISTS

SIBINA MURVAT ROUGHTON AUSTRALIA Sibina Murvat Roughton is the founder and Director of Cosmetic Tattoo Art by Sibina. She is based in the city of Gold Coast Australia. Sibina is an accomplished business owner for 6 years and has been working in the permanent cosmetics beauty arena for the last 10 years. Proud member of the SPCP (USA), CPCP, ACT (Ausralian Cosmetic Tattoo).

W W W.SIBINA.COMA.U

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

GALLERY OF ARTISTS

ALEXANDER SIVAK RUSSIA Alexander Sivak is the Head of Training Center «TAT PM» Russia, Rostov-on-Don. While being a regional director of «International League of permanent makeup professionals» in Rostov-on-Don, Alexander is also a certified trainer of «MLPPM». He is a practicing permanent makeup artist since 2003.

SIVAK.SPMU W W W.A-SIVAK.RU

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

MEDICINE

TO TREAT OR NOT TO TREAT: DIFFERENT SCAR TYPES Permanent makeup used as a means of corrective camouflage can serve various purposes. It can effectively conceal imperfections, some skin diseases like vitiligo and is most effective when dealing with various types of scars. However, not all scar types qualify for micropigmentation. It is critical for the artist to identify the scar type before the procedure and be certain about indications and contraindications of the treatment on the particular patient.

KELOIDS are firm, thick clusters of scar tissue that rise above the surrounding skin. They are more common in patients of ethnic skin and appear at the site of previous skin damage or wounds (incision, vaccination, piercing etc.) Unlike other types of scars, keloids keep growing after the injury has healed due to the increased collagen production and thus may extend far beyond the spot of the initial skin damage.

The formation of a scar is the body’s natural way of healing and recovering from skin loss or damage. Scars are composed of fibrosis tissue which is thicker than normal skin due to the increased amount of collagen. Skin reparation is possible because of the activity of special cells called fibroblasts. Resting fibroblasts are most typical resident cells of regular connective tissue. They form its matrix by secreting collagen as well as some other vital components. However, fibroblasts preserve their ability to move to the active phase and multiply when needed, for example during tissue repair. The increased amount of collagen produced by fibroblasts makes up scar tissue that remains even after the skin surface has re-epithelialized.

It is highly not recommended for the patients prone to keloid formation to have micropigmentation treatment done. Although micro perforations made by tattoo needles do not go deep into the skin layers, they pose certain risks to the patients with above average susceptibility. It’s a challenging process for the artist to define if their patient is a high-risk one. The easiest way to determine if the permanent makeup procedure is feasible in a particular case is to check if the patient has piercings. In case they do not, a scratch test should be performed and/or a color line should be applied behind the patient’s ear. It should be then watched closely for several months to ascertain if the keloid formation should occur.

Although the composition of the scar tissue cannot vary significantly, its histology and physiology may differ. Thus several types of scars are known:

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

It is strongly prohibited to perform a micropigmentation procedure on the existent keloid scar.

Epidermis

Derma

ATROPHIC SCAR

FLAT AND PALE SCAR

HYPERTROPHIC scars appear red and lumpy, elevated. They resemble keloid scars and their formation also reveals a disbalance in collagen production, however they are usually confined within the boundaries of the damaged area. Although hypertrophic scars do not extend beyond the wound, they may continue to thicken for up to 5 years. However, these scars tend to flatten and whiten over time. The results of a micropigmentation treatment performed on hypertrophic scars are deemed unpredictable, as there is a high probability for them to reappear. Certain clinics, however, do perform such treatments. In the interest of safety, patients prone to hypertrophic scars are advised to refrain from getting a micropigmentation procedure performed. The artist should warn the patient against the possible consequences beforehand. However, the decision remains up to the patient. The informed consent form should be signed prior to any procedure.

ATROPHIC scars have pitted appearance which is peculiar as the skin resembles the Moonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface. These are deep scars that stem from such skin conditions as acne or chickenpox. In terms of histology, however, the causes of their formation are not absolutely clear. Just like with keloid and hypertrophic scars, the main factor for their apparition is troubles in collagen production, but the deeper understanding has not yet been acquired. It is thought, however, that the mechanism of their formation originates in the reaction of collagen fibers and subcutaneous fat to inflammation. Consequently, the treatment of this type of scars requires collagen boost, thus patients with atrophic scars are good candidates for collagen induction or skin needling.

HYPERTROPHIC SCAR

KELOID

SCAR CONTRACTURES

are an abnormal occurrence that usually follows burns. The scar pulls the edges of the skin together causing tightening in the area and restriction of movements. This type totally qualifies for micropigmentation. However, micropigmentation treatments should be numerous as the burned areas do not retain pigment well. It is worth mentioning that when performing micropigmentation directly on the scar contractures the scar can be relieved after the pigment has been applied thus contributing to uneven application and, what is more, an asymmetrical look when performed on the face. Highly satisfying results can be expected if the procedure of scar relaxation is performed prior to the micropigmentation treatments.

Last but not least, FLAT AND PALE SCARS, which are the most common ones to form after any injury or surgery. Slightly red and swollen at the beginning, they grow paler overtime and do not rise over the level of the surrounding skin. Depending on the depth of the wound it may take up to one year for such scars to heal, but it is absolutely important to wait for the healing process to complete before performing any treatments, even if it is clear from the beginning that the appearing scar will fall in this category. Since the scar tissue in this case lacks pigmentation, it appears white compared to the surrounding skin. This discoloration can be quite disturbing for the patients, so a micropigmentation treatment can be performed as the scar presents no danger of complications.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

TRACEY SIMPSON UK Tracey Simpson is the founder and Director of Natural Enhancement, exclusive distributor of Biotek permanent makeup products in the UK. She has been practicing medical micro-pigmentation for over a decade with 50% of her work being medical procedures. Within this article she will disclose some of her knowledge and experience. W W W.NATURALENHANCEMENT.CO.UK

SCAR CAMOUFLAGE: A TREATMENT THAT GOES MORE THAN SKIN DEEP Scars are areas of fibrous tissue that replace normal skin after injury. When the skin is wounded and there’s a break in the body’s tissues, the body produces Collagen and other substances to help heal and close the wound. For months to years, Collagen continues to form and break down at the site of the wound in the proliferation and maturation processes. After a time span of 3 years the tissues are considered healed and it’s unlikely their appearance will improve further without cosmetic intervention.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

Micropigmentation can be used to improve the appearance of scars by reinstating colour, also known as chromatic repairing. Prior to treatment, scars have to be assessed for suitability; they must be lighter than their surrounding skin (silvery white) and show no visible signs of hyper-pigmentation (brown) or inflammation (purple-red). During assessment, if the scar is taut or raised (in some cases but not all) needling with saline can be employed to make the scar more pliable and mobile – and in some instances elevated scars can also be flattened to a certain degree.

advice I can offer is this: “Manage your patient’s expectations.” Patients come to us because they want their scar to disappear and in the majority of cases we cannot achieve this. Scar camouflage is not just about implanting skin tone pigments into the skin. You have to replicate what you see. We all understand that we have to replicate the appearance of newly growing hair in the case of this FUT scar, but would you think about replicating the below mentioned details?

When considering a chromatic repair with micropigmentation, the technician needs to determine if the topography of the scar differentiates from its surrounding skin, because the needling process will not always even out a bumpy terrain. The patient must be made aware that in terms of the scar’s appearance the restoration of colour is only a part of their problem and this will reflect in the results that can be achieved. Now that we understand what scars we can treat we need to look at how we can camouflage them. We will begin by asking “What does the word camouflage mean?” The answer is — to disguise or to make it difficult to see, not to make it disappear! I’ve been doing scar camouflage procedures for over 10 years and one of the most valuable pieces of

• Freckles within the borders of a scar; • Flushing due to capillary networks, particularly common behind the ears after face lift surgery; • Or a 5 o’ clock shadow on a man’s face. To select possible pigment choices test chosen colours on the skin’s surface to see if they blend into the tissues. If a client has flawless, even toned skin, I recommend you carry out a colour match by implanting a tiny application of the pigment into the hypo-pigmented skin, because getting the colour exact is paramount in these cases. The test site should then heal for a month to allow the colour to heal true so it can be evaluated and adjusted if required (2mm test site). Untreated scars are slivery white and opaque against their surrounding skin. In Caucasian skin the best result is achieved when the treated scar has a translucency about it allowing it to merge away into its background.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

This can be realized by diluting your pigment choice prior to its implantation (from 20 – 60 % dilution). For the last 3 years I’ve been using the Biotek Arté, a device able to create pixilated shaded results that I could only dream about previously. It’s allowed me to take on medical procedures that I formerly would have turned away because the results would be too visible in the skin. During treatment if the pointillism method is used for pigment implantation, it’s wise not to place the micro points of colour too close together; otherwise the result can take on a flat, blocked look. Subject to the points being tiny and sufficiently spaced out, additional micro points can be ‘filled in’ during proceeding

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM

treatments, using different tonalities of pigment, thus achieving the tonal variance of normal skin. If I have to re-pigment a large area, my personal needle choice is the 9 Magnum configuration. It’s a double row of flats stacked on top of each other and it’s great for shading. I dilute the pigment because the treatment in this scenario is all about layering pigment to build up colour density, in multiple treatment sessions. In conclusion I want to remind to all the permanent makeup artists out there that camouflaging procedures, especially when working with scarred tissues, require much more diligence and caution than common cosmetic permanent makeup. Artists performing such procedures must have advanced knowledge of coloristics, skin structure and other medical issues.

PMUINTERNATIONAL.COM