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A starter guide for you and your puppy!
Labrador Retriever 2
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Contents
Contents Welcome to your puppy starter guide! You and your puppy
Even though buying your first puppy can be an exciting and stressful time; it is important to make sure your puppy gets the best possible start in their new home. In association with The Kennel Club and Petlog, this guide has been designed to help you and your puppy settle into a new routine during the important first few weeks and prepare you for the challenges ahead.
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Puppy Essentials
A comprehensive guide to equipment
Essential early lessons will benefit your puppy throughout its life
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Living with your puppy
Easy toilet training
Toilet training puppies the easy way
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Puppy Essentials A comprehensive guide to equipment Bedding
Your puppy needs a comfortable bed, so buy a bed big enough for it to grow into, and stretch out in. There are many types of good bedding for your puppy, initially, a large cardboard box placed on its side or a puppy crate, will give your puppy the security it needs, and it will not matter if it chews the box (but be careful that the puppy does not chew the box too much and that there are no staples). Later on, buy a plastic oval bed, which is better than a wicker basket or bean bag, which can be a hazard and a nightmare to clear up if chewed. Most puppies love snuggling into a piece of veterinary style fleece or similar. This is a synthetic simulated sheepskin, which is hygienic, machine washable, totally non-allergenic and relatively resistant to chewing. It can also help to prevent pressure sores on bigger dogs. Buy two pieces so you use one whilst washing and drying the other and make sure that you replace them every few months.
Puppy crates, play pens and child-gates Some dogs love having their own ‘four poster beds’ and many puppy owners find these useful to contain 4
the puppy and keep it safe and out of trouble when it is alone, rather like putting a baby in a cot or play pen. Strong puppy pens are good too. When ordering a crate for your puppy, buy one big enough for it to lie in stretched out and stand up in when it is fully grown and make sure that the mesh is not too big as puppies may get their mouths caught. Put some bedding inside and tie some toys in the far end of the crate so that the puppy has to go in there to play with them. Gently place your puppy in there whenever it falls asleep. Leave occasional treats in the crate for the puppy to find, so the puppy learns to love going in there. Do not shut the door until your puppy is comfortable being in there, and start closing the door when you are feeding it and when it has fallen asleep in the crate. Make sure you stay around to let it out the moment it wakes up or finishes its meal. You can gradually increase the time the puppy stays in the crate, and initially this should be whilst you are in the room with it. Make sure it has recently emptied its bladder and bowels and do not leave your puppy in the crate for more than a couple of hours during the daytime. Although most puppies are content to sleep in The Kennel Club
Never use the crate as a sin-bin or you will teach your puppy to resent it. Always remove the puppy’s collar when in the crate in case it gets caught on it.
Collars
Choose a comfortable collar that is suitable for the breed, size and age of puppy. Puppies grow rapidly and collars should be checked almost daily for condition and fit. These should not be so loose that they can slip over your puppy’s head or so
tight that you cannot slip two fingers underneath.
Vet’s Tip
If working outside, e.g. gardening, encourage your puppy to sit, eat and sleep in their crate in the back of your stationary car. That way your puppy will grow in confidence and be less likely to suffer from car-sickness.
Identity Discs
You are required by law to inscribe the name and address of the owner on the collar or on a plate or disc attached to it. You must comply with this, even if the puppy is micro chipped, as you can be fined up to
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Puppy Essentials
their crate overnight, they get very distressed if they have to foul near their beds, so you must be prepared to get out of your bed to let them out if they need the toilet during the night. If they have fouled inside the crate, you must clean it out immediately or the puppy will hate being in it.
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Leads
Choose a lead that is suitable for the size and breed of your puppy, not too long, too short or too heavy. A good rope lead is both strong and comfortable on your hands. Chain leads can hurt your hands, but may be useful if you have a puppy that likes to chew or carry its lead in its mouth. Nylon leads are strong, but can hurt your hands. Whatever type you choose, make sure you attach it to the ‘D ring’ of the collar and not onto the split ring that attaches the identity disc to the collar, as this is not strong enough to take the weight of your dog. Many people still prefer the traditional leather lead, which requires to be oiled or saddle soaped to be kept clean and supple. Particular attention should be paid to the catch/clip, which must be strong and not liable to break or straighten.
Walkies Kit
You are required by law to clear up after your dog in public areas and dispose of the bag in an appropriate bin, so you will need a supply of poo bags, sandwich bags or nappy sacks to take with you whenever you are out with your puppy. You must also take your dog’s lead with you wherever you go, as you never know www.thekennelclub.org.uk
when you might need it. It is also a good idea to ensure that you have a mobile phone with you when you are out with your dog, especially if you tend to talk your dog alone. Some treats and a toy to play fetch with are also useful to take with you. To keep everything you need to hand, it may be worth finding a small bag to keep everything in so that you can have your ‘kit’ ready to lift for every walk. There are various styles of bag for dog walkers available on the market.
Did you know?
You are required by law to clear up after your dog in public areas and dispose of the bag in an appropriate bin.
Interesting toys
It is very important that your puppy has a range of appropriate toys to play with; otherwise it might chew on your things, instead of its own. Chew toys also provide mental stimulation, help to keep your dog’s teeth clean and allow it to exercise its jaws. Select toys for your puppy carefully - some may be too small and might choke your puppy whilst other items might splinter. Hollow sterilised bones and ‘Kongs®’ are very popular and can be stuffed with food (clean them out regularly) to make them more attractive. You should also have toys that you can play with interactively, like balls on ropes and frisbees, so that you can have fun with your puppy. Dogs tend to guard real bones and they can harbour germs and splinter, so are best avoided. 7
Puppy Essentials
£5,000 if you do not. You may also want to put your telephone numbers on the tag but you do not need to put the dog’s name on it. Engraved discs (which you can order from the Kennel Club website) are better than barrel types which often undo and lose the contents. You do not need to buy a dog license any more.
Do not let your dog play with sticks, golf or squash balls. All these things can easily get stuck in the throat and cause damage or even death. For this reason, it is important to bear in mind the size of your dog and the size of the chew or toy you decide to purchase. If a chew becomes too small after a prolonged period of chewing, do not take the risk and throw the toy away.
Food and water bowls
You will need separate (non-tip) bowls for water and food. These should be raised up off the floor for tall dogs. Make sure fresh water is always available for your dog.
Car harness, travelling crate or dog guard
Your dog should travel either behind a dog guard, secured with a car seat harness or, ideally, in a crate or fixed car cage. A crate or cage gives a dog its own space and ensures both safety and comfort. If you have space for a crate then this provides a safe haven for your puppy in the car. There is nothing worse than seeing a dog squashed in a car with luggage piled up around it. Accustom your puppy to car travel with very short trips at first ideally when the puppy is tired so it will go to sleep. If the puppy is carsick try fixing the crate on the back seat as the car sways far from the back, which can cause travel sickness.
Grooming equipment
Short-coated dogs need to be groomed regularly, especially when they are moulting as their short hairs can get stuck into everything. Use 8
a rubber toothed brush or a short bristle brush, which massages the skin and works out the loose hair. Dogs with medium to long coats or thick undercoats need gentle de-tangling every day to keep them knot free. The main problem areas that need the most attention tend to be behind the ears, between the toes, under the feet, in the armpits, the backs of the legs and around the tail. Some dogs will need to have their beards or hair around their eyes cleaned regularly. If you are not showing your puppy you may wish to trim these areas back. However, use round-ended scissors so that you do not accidentally stab your puppy, and get someone to help you if your puppy will not stand still, otherwise ask your groomer to do this for you.
Kennel Club Tip
Have your puppy microchipped as an extra safety precaution, so that if it is lost or stolen, when found (without its collar) it can be scanned by an authorised agent. See the ‘Microchipping’ section below to find out more... If you intend to exhibit your puppy in the show ring it may need to have its coat trimmed into a special shape, or need clipping. Your breeder, groomer, ringcraft class or breed club can advise you on the best way to achieve this. They can also advise you on the best type of brushes and combs to use. Contact details for your The Kennel Club
Puppy Essentials
Border Collie breed club can be requested from the Kennel Club.
sun cream on their ears and other exposed areas in hot sunny weather.
Always brush your puppy slowly and gently. Gradually introduce the concept of grooming in very short sessions. If your puppy tries to bite the brush, put some taste deterrent on the brush so it learns not be bother.
Doggy toothpaste and toothbrush
Some dogs will need to have their nails trimmed if they get too long. If your dog has dew-claws (like little thumbs on the inside of its ‘wrists’) they should be checked frequently as they do not get worn down naturally and can grow in a circle and cut into the flesh. You can learn to trim the nails yourself or have a vet or groomer do it for you. White dogs and those with sparse coats in particular can be susceptible to sun burn so use a high factor www.thekennelclub.org.uk
Gum disease is far too common in middle-aged dogs and can lead to all sorts of health problems, so it pays to brush your dog’s teeth. Use special canine toothpaste, which comes in tasty flavours and does not foam (unlike human toothpaste) with a special rubber thimble for dogs’ teeth.
Dog shampoo
Dogs only need to be bathed every few months unless they have been swimming or have rolled in something smelly. Use a dog shampoo and put down a non-slip mat down if using a bath. Towel drying your puppy is important and will get it used to being 9
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Anti-pulling aids
There are lots of devices (mostly harnesses and head collars) that claim to help stop dogs from pulling on the lead. Some of these rub, squeeze or pinch the dog, and tend not to be tolerated well, so shop around and make sure that your puppy is comfortable wearing it. You should allow your puppy time to become accustomed to any aid you decide on. However, if you ensure correct training from the start, your puppy should not pull on the lead.
Outdoor kennels and dog runs
Dogs are sociable animals and most of them prefer to live indoors, and can get pretty miserable if left outside. However, if your dog spends most of its time outside, then you need to provide if with an enclosed run and a specially designed kennel, or it may wreck your garden. Providing toys is particularly important if your puppy is left alone for periods of time. Make sure that the run includes an enclosed, dry area for sleeping and shelter in bad weather.
Clothing
Microchipping
It makes complete sense to have your puppy microchipped as an extra safety precaution, so that if it is lost or stolen, when found (without its collar) it can be scanned by an authorised agent such as a vet, dog warden or rescue centre. If you have registered your puppy’s microchip with Petlog (this can be done at time of implantation - but please check as there are a number of other databases), the microchip number can then be matched up with your records on the Petlog database. The after care services of a reliable database are vital in the reunification process. Petlog is the largest pet reunification service in the UK (and managed by the Kennel Club) and exists to support responsible pet ownership and the welfare of the dog. A dedicated team mans the Petlog line for microchipped pets, 24-hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year. In an average month Petlog receives more than 8,000 calls to help reunite lost pets with their owners. It is important that you understand the need to keep your records correct and up to date - without your contact details your pet may never find its way home.
Some short coated or recently clipped dogs really feel the cold, so may benefit from wearing a fitted jumper or coat when out on walks. Some long coated dogs may benefit from protective clothing to keep them clean and dry in winter weather. Make sure it fits properly and is well tolerated by your puppy. Never make your dog wear clothes indoors. www.thekennelclub.org.uk
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Puppy Essentials
dried when it comes home wet from a walk.
Living with your puppy Essential early lessons will benefit your puppy throughout its life Puppies learn at a very fast rate, so it is essential that you understand the importance of teaching useful and positive lessons early on that will benefit your puppy throughout its life and help to prevent the most common (and predictable) training and behaviour problems. If you neglect to do this, the problems you will experience will be harder to rectify than if you had taught your puppy correctly in the first place. Therefore, you need to plan and incorporate some extremely important lessons during the early stages of your puppy’s development, so that you end up with a wellbalanced and sociable dog.
Socialisation
Every puppy needs socialising sensibly (having pleasant social interactions with adults, children, vets, adult dogs and other animals). Your puppy also needs careful exposure to different situations in the environment like traffic, crowds, travelling in the car, vacuum cleaners and any sights and 12
sounds it will have to cope with its’ life. It is very important to begin this whilst your puppy is very young, so do a little bit every day. Introduce your puppy to these things gradually to prevent it getting overwhelmed by groups of children or by very noisy traffic, for instance. You might take your puppy out for short ‘educational’ trips in the car to visit friends, or for a walk (in your arms until it is fully vaccinated) on the streets and in the park. Remember to praise your puppy liberally, but take care not to praise it (reassuringly) for being scared.
Meeting other dogs
Your puppy can only learn its canine manners by interacting with and being ‘put in its place’ by a range of well-balanced adult dogs. Insufficient or negative early socialisation with other dogs commonly causes puppies to become fearful and aggressive towards them. Puppies learn their valuable social skills up to and including adolescence (start of seasons and leg cocking) when The Kennel Club
Most adult dogs are incredibly tolerant of puppies, up to a point, after which they have to put the puppy in its place. This will teach your puppy its canine ‘Ps and Qs’, and is a very important lesson for it to learn whilst it is still protected by its ‘puppy status’. Until your puppy starts showing some respect towards other dogs, try not to let it mix too regularly with other puppies or young dogs (under two years old) as they will most probably over-stimulate each other into wild and uninhibited behaviour, and
Did you know?
The Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme offers a Puppy Foundation course specifically designed for your individual needs. behave like unruly school children which could cause serious problems later. For this same reason, do not let your dog run around with other young puppies or juveniles at puppy parties or playgroups that are not fully supervised and controlled, as they will often make each other wild which can result in undesirable behaviour, rather than teaching each other manners. You would not expect a bunch of three-year-old children left to their own devices to teach each
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Living with your puppy
these need to have become refined and perfected, so it is important for your puppy to have daily interactions with temperamentally sound adult dogs, within a secure and safe environment. Any interaction must be well supervised and you should take every step to ensure that these dogs are trustworthy.
other manners; well the same is true of puppies. Most puppies will back down from an adult dog, but not from another puppy. If it has not learned its canine manners before it reaches puberty, it may run into problems later on. Most dogs are less inclined to correct another adult, because they would not want to risk being answered back, or starting a fight, so make sure your puppy learns to respect adult dogs before it is too late.
Puppy Discipline
Your puppy needs to understand ‘right from wrong’. In a household all members should agree to a set of rules, which are consistently adhered
to. You should discourage puppy actions such as jumping up, mouthing, play biting, stealing, chewing, barking, pawing, begging or mounting, which may later cause serious problems. Puppies need constant supervision (when awake) to avoid getting it wrong. Take every opportunity to praise your puppy for good manners and divert it from undesirable behaviour. It is not fair to punish your puppy for things you have allowed it to do due to lack of supervision e.g. finding a hole in your garden or a hole in your sofa after the event. Prevention is better than cure. As with children, puppies and family situations are individual and therefore each must be treated as such.
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Make sure that your dog is well trained and that it will sit, stay and come on command
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Make sure that your dog doesn’t disturb others by barking
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Not everybody will love your dog as much as you do - make sure that it does not jump up at or pester other people
Alternatively, try to ensure that the course is run by a Kennel Club Accredited Instructor. All KCAI members are guided by the Kennel Club’s Code of Practice, giving an assurance of their commitment to provide dog owners with a good service. The scheme encourages high standards for god training and behavioural advice, where all scheme members are examined and registered for their individual levels of expertise.
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Dogs are allowed in areas that serve and sell food but they must stay out of food preparation areas
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Do not allow your dog to touch other people’s food
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It is a good idea to take a pet carrier with you when you are staying somewhere overnight or for long periods. Turn it into your dog’s ‘den’, with his own bedding and personalised items, so that he will settle down well
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Make sure that your dog is clean before entering the premises. Make sure that your dog is house trained
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Make sure that you always clean up after your dog - it is your responsibility.
Out and about with your puppy
The Kennel Club believes that everyday life should be easier and more accessible for dogs and their owners. Open for Dogs is a service run by the Kennel Club and powered by Dog Friendly offering a listing of dog friendly businesses in the UK - from cafés to hotels and shops to pubs. There are thousands of businesses in the UK that are proud to be Open for Dogs and to welcome dogs into their premises, as well behaved dog citizens. However, as dog owners, we have a duty to behave responsibly and with consideration for those around us and by following a few simple steps we can ensure that dog friendly places remain that way. www.thekennelclub.org.uk
Don’t Forget... Puppies learn at a very fast rate, so it is essential that you understand the importance of teaching useful and positive lessons early on.
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Living with your puppy
Find a good dog training class to teach you how to stimulate your puppy and show you methods to use that can prevent and correct different types of actions. Most Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme training cubs will offer the Puppy Foundation course, specifically designed for your individual needs. These will guide and teach you and your puppy effective control and good manners.
Easy toilet training Toilet training should be quite a simple process as long as you take your time and the trouble to get into a good routine Initially, you will have to build your routine around your puppy’s needs, and these are reliably predictable when they are very young. Puppies need to urinate immediately after waking up, so you need to be there to take your puppy straight into the garden without any delay. Eating meals stimulates the digestive system, and puppies normally urinate within fifteen minutes of eating, and defecate within half an hour of eating (although this might vary slightly with each puppy). Puppies have very poor bladder control, and need to urinate at least every hour of two. They can urinate spontaneously when they get excited, so take your puppy out frequently if it has been active, playing or exploring. You may find it useful to keep a record of when your puppy eats, sleeps, urinates and defecates. A simple diary list will do. 16
Use a cue word while the puppy is actually going to the toilet so that the puppy can associate the word with the action and encourage it to toilet on command. Use different words for each action so that you will be able to prompt the puppy later on. Always go with your puppy into the garden so you are there to reward and attach the cue words to the successful actions. Fortunately, puppies are creatures of habit, so as long as you introduce the garden to your puppy as its toilet area early on, you should be able to avoid most of the common pitfalls.
Toilet training errors
Unfortunately there are many reasons why ‘toilet training’ might not go as smoothly as it could, so make sure you do not make any of the following mistakes…
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Overfeeding The Kennel Club
scared of toileting in front of you even outside)
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Feeding salty foods (e.g. stock from cubes) which makes them drink more
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Using ammonia based cleaning compounds (which smell similar to urine)
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Feeding an unsuitable diet or giving a variety of foods
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Not feeding at regular times
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Feeding at the wrong times (which could cause your puppy to need to go to the toilet during the night)
Expecting the puppy to tell you when it needs to go out; this is unrealistic, so it is better to take them out at regular intervals
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Leaving the back door open for the puppy to come and go as it pleases (a puppy will think the garden is an adventure
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Punishing the puppy for its indoor accidents (which can make it
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Easy toilet training
Did you know?
Puppies normally urinate within fifteen minutes of eating, and defecate within half an hour of eating.
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Leaving the puppy on its own for too long, so that it is forced to go indoors (which sets a bad precedent or even a habit of going indoors)
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Mistakenly associating the words ‘good girl’ and ‘good boy’ when they toilet, as opposed to the specific cue words - you do not want the puppy to go to the toilet when praised for good behaviour
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Access to rugs or carpet (which are nice and absorbent - just like grass)
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Laziness on your part, resulting in more instances of the puppy going to the toilet indoors than outdoors
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Leaving the dog alone in the garden, so you are not there to reward it for going outdoors. A successful toilet trip to the back garden needs to be reinforced with your praise to help the puppy understand that this is the right place to go to the toilet
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Submissive or excited urination on greeting (if this occurs, take your puppy outside before you greet it and tone down your greetings so it is less exciting or overwhelming)
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It is unfair to expect your puppy to go right through the night when it is very young. Sleeping the puppy in a crate or puppy pen can help with house training but you should
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let it out in the garden to relieve itself during the night.
Teaching your puppy to toilet out on a walk
Many owners appear disappointed that their young puppy will not toilet when out on a walk, yet relieves itself the second it gets back home. This is because the puppy has been taught to toilet only at home (hopefully in its garden), and being creatures of habit, they often wait until they have returned home before going to the toilet. To break this habit, you will have to get up very early one morning (when you have plenty of time), and get your puppy out on a walk before it has had its morning wee. You should not bring it home until it has been forced to go out of desperation. If however, you are unsuccessful, and your puppy has not toileted, then take it immediately into the garden on your return, or you risk it relieving itself indoors.
Vet’s Tip
Always check paws and ears after every walk in the summer months as tiny arrowshaped grass seeds may be waiting to burrow their way into these sensitive areas.
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Easy toilet training
playground, rather than a toilet area. This may also cause confusion for the puppy when faced with a closed back door in the winter months)
The Puppy Guide is brought to you in association with:
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