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: Alan Wiggs
Diving with the firewalkers Beqa Lagoon Resort has long enjoyed an enviable reputation for great diving and fine food and was voted “World’s Best Dive Resort” in 2002 by the readers of Rodale’s Scuba Diving. After our visit last June, we can only agree with that lofty assessment. I was lucky enough to lead a group of 47 Peninsula School students, families and friends to this superb island getaway situated off the south coast of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main island. Access couldn’t really be easier; from Nadi airport, a 2 hour coach trip weaves along the coral coast past Sigatoka, providing glimpses of the sea gently fizzing against the barrier reef. Near Pacific Harbour we boarded one of the huge resort dive boats and journeyed south to Beqa (pronounced “Bengar”) - a scenic 40 minute trip across choppy seas reflecting a slate grey sky. We arrived with high expectations – first impressions were favourable as we crossed the palm-fringed beach to the main dining room, admiring the views across the lagoon to Yanuca Island. Surrounding us was emerald green pristine rainforest – tropical parrots screeched overhead weaving through the coconut palms. We quickly settled into our superb bures on the beach and were soon breaking out the gear, anxious to try a shore dive.
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One superb day we headed out to an offshore seamount a location never before dived. Here we found forests of elephantine gorgonian fans 3-4 metres wide at 40 metres depth. In stunning 50 metre visibility it was hard to appreciate the size of these intricate coral trees. They are huge!
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Our dive equipment was dutifully collected by the resort staff and hung up down at the dive shop – it was simply a case of, grab a full tank, waddle down the beach and blow some bubbles. Water temperature was 27°C (in midwinter no less!) and visibility was reasonable at 12 – 15 metres, though nothing compared to the deep blue of the outer reef. The shore diving at BLR is very good, with large colonies of Clown Fish; a healthy reef slope with several Butterflyfish and Angelfish species and the occasional Trevally and Long Tom. The reef terraces off into 15 metres or so and I spent most afternoons treating novices to introductory dives down the reef wall.
Fiji is well respected for its fine soft corals and “Circus Circus” exceeds even the superb colours of the Bligh Waters at Raki Raki or the brilliance of Naigani – this dive was a religious experience (and I’m not even religious!)
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divesites º BLR is a “full service” (read as “You will get spoilt rotten”) dive resort – where everything is pretty much done for you, that is, unless you have some anal obsession with carrying tanks and fitting up gear! Each morning we would simply suit up and board the boat, only to find our tanks fully kitted up with mask and fins neatly tucked in a mesh bag all set to go! Surface intervals were spent at Picnic Island – the kids would jump ship and swim to shore or snorkel in the crystalline shallows, while Delana and the dive staff changed tanks as we relived the dive. Beqa was one of the first areas dived in Fiji and has a host of well known dive sites – the range was most impressive, with shipwrecks; corals reef walls and pinnacles and offshore seamounts to investigate. Soft corals were abundant in riotous colour and fish life literally teemed in a variety of shapes and sizes. Schools of Barracuda, Fusiliers and giant Black Rays; swarms of Rainbow Runner – it was difficult to know which way to look. There are over 35 dive sites regularly dived from BLR – most are within 40 minutes, but there are some other exciting options further offshore. The dive boats are sensational – a fleet of 3 ex-cray boats from Western Australia that have been fully fitted up for diving and have a head on board (no smelly wetsuits!) and a sundeck level above. I have rarely enjoyed such a complete diving experience in one trip – we had 12 brilliant dives that varied greatly yet were all of a very high standard. Some of our favourite sites included–
next to a spectacular coral bommie which is penetrated with a 10 metre long tunnel 2-3 metres wide and lined with soft coral. A glorious Painted Flutemouth posed next to a golden gorgonian rising from the deck, while below in the hold of the ship, a trio of Lion fish propped in the rigging. The wreck is great in itself – but is only part of the story, as the dive continues to explore a bommie topped with a dazzling confetti of the friendliest Butterflyfish and Golden Damsels we have ever encountered. Approaching the mooring for “Fantasea”, the current was really ripping, but Delana assured us that this was a dive we just had to experience. And we were not disappointed. Finning hard (really hard!) through forests of crimson gorgonian fans we finally reached the “windward” corner of the bommie where Painted Surgeons and masses of electric blue and gold Fusiliers glided in amongst thousands of Red Toothed Trigger Fish. One could just hang on, dig in and watch the endless parade of life go past. Drifting down into the lee, we found a coral cleft where Leaf Scorpionfish and Nudibranchs literally crowded together while, out in the blue, Barracuda streamed past like silver daggers. Superlatives will never do this dive justice – the
crowning glory was the school of Rainbow Runner that escorted us back up to the anchor line to dive boat, milling around us at the safety stop. Just bloody unreal! One superb day we headed out to an offshore seamount – a location never before dived. Here we found forests of huge gorgonian fans 3-4 metres wide and Turtles in numbers rarely seen these days. We had the honour of naming the site “Turtle Canyons”. In between dives we trolled lures and managed to outsmart a 28 kilogram Wahoo – the fastest fish in the sea. On our return, the fish was presented to the village, after a sizeable chunk was carved off for the triumphant fishermen!
some of the young men from a nearby village – Beqa is the home of the firewalkers and the ritual is taken very seriously, and with steaming hot rocks measured at 650° celsius, it remains something of a mystery! We also visited Ravi Ravi Village school where our students relished mixing with the Fijian kids, playing volleyball and teaching them how to play netball – this type of cultural interchange is priceless and is a big part of what makes Beqa special. And the resort staff is the friendliest and most helpful we have ever met – led by Mark Propert, the aussie manager who is hospitality trained and oozes warmth and approachability – this guy can just never do enough to help!
BLR has long had a reputation for fine dining and we anticipated each meal with delight – superb seafood choices such as Swordfish steaks with macadamia sauce were followed by feather-light chocolate soufflés. I’ve never been anywhere before where guests photographed their meals before reluctantly destroying the fine presentation! One night chef Laniana was introduced to the group and received a standing ovation. Each evening we were entertained by Fijian bands or dancers and we also witnessed a firewalking demonstration by
Beqa is the total Fijian experience – a superb resort in a wonderful location. We had great diving, and yet had to bail out on the famous shark dive experience, due to unseasonally rough conditions. And this is not a dive to be missed – with no less than 8 species of sharks on the menu – including Bull Sharks; Lemon and Leopard Sharks and a 15 foot Tiger Shark called “Grandma”! Add this into the mix and you have a truly mind-blowing trip. This is but one reason why I can’t wait until we return next year.
“Joe’s Best” – a 30 metre dive where one huge coral head has a giant swim-through punching through from one side to the other, carpeted with sea whips and gorgonians Leaf Scorpionfish; various nudibranchs and Blue Ribbons Eels decorated the substrate, while far above, schools of Bannerfish orbited the sun while predatory Blue Trevally hunted on the reef crest, trying to single out one baitfish from millions. We agreed with Joe – this was the best! Well, that was at least, until we dived “Circus Circus” – a curious name that remains unexplained. This is a “must do” dive site, that is the equal of any soft coral dive we have ever done – the assortment of colours and their density was intense. Fiji is well respected for its fine soft corals and “Circus Circus” exceeds even the superb colours of the Bligh Waters at Raki Raki or the brilliance of Naigani – this dive was a religious experience (and I’m not even religious!) At this stage of the trip I decided that I had a new favourite dive in Fiji. “Carpet Cove” offers something unusual in Fiji – a wreck! OK, it’s no President Coolidge, rather a 25 metre Chinese Trawler at 30 metres, but combined with the brilliant coral reef nearby, this was a very interesting and entertaining dive. In the shadow of the wreck we found forests of swaying Garden Eels and Fire Gobies twitching over their burrows, while a fat White Tip Shark cruised by in the distant blue of 30 metre visibility. “Gee’s Rock” was the scene for a quite bizarre sight – our friendly Fijian dive guide, Delana sidled up to a coral ledge, removed his regulator, opened wide… and allowed a pair of bow-legged cleaner shrimp to give him a free dental treatment – a bit of a clean and scale if you don’t mind! No wonder his pearly whites were in such great shape! With the job done, they returned to a more conventional customer – a small Coral Trout that waited patiently, next in line.
Ben Hall and Mitch Watson, Year 9 students at The Peninsula School, enjoy their first wreck dive at “Carpet Cove”, Beqa Lagoon Resort.
“Gee’s Rock” was the scene for a quite bizarre sight – our friendly Fijian dive guide, Delana sidled up to a coral ledge, removed his regulator, opened wide… and allowed a pair of bow-legged cleaner shrimp to give him a free dental treatment – a bit of a clean and scale if you don’t mind! No wonder his pearly whites were in such great shape! With the job done, they returned to a more conventional customer – a small Coral Trout that waited patiently, next in line.
One standout dive day was when we headed out west of Yanuca to dive “John’s Tunnel”. Here a wreck sits at 30 metres,
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BEQA ISLAND FACT FILE CLIMATE: Beqa is 18 degrees south of the equator. Summer (Oct-Mar) has days up to 35 degrees and humid nights. Winter (Apr-Sept) brings warm fine days up to 28 degrees with cool nights. DIVING FACILITIES: Beqa has a fleet of 3 huge diesel powered ex-cray boats that easily take up to 20 divers each. Head; sun deck; and camera storage in the lounge area. A good range of hire equipment is available, as are all PADI dive courses. A full service facility. POWER: 240 volt Australian-style plugs. The generator runs 24/7. PASSPORT: Current passport – no visa required. OTHER ACTIVITIES: Diving is the mainstay of the resort. Snorkelling gear is available as are sea kayaks. Village tours, jungle walks and waterfall treks are all part of the package. Firewalking; warrior dances; Fijian bands and choirs help to fill in the evenings. The pool; the resort grounds and the main dining room are all quite impressive. GETTING THERE: Ex Nadi; BLR has their own coach for the 2 hour trip to Pacific Harbour. Dive Boats then transfer guests. WHAT TO BRING: Apart from diving and snorkelling requisites, sunscreen is a must. Also bring a small gift for the village kids – crayons; coloured pencils or a t-shirt are warmly received. FINAL TIP: Try to organise the Shark dive early in your trip to allow a back-up day should the weather blow up (unlikely – but it happened to us!). The lucky group: 47 Peninsula School students, families and friends.
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Allways Dive Expeditions have vacancies in a group departure September 21-30, $2269 (non-diver triple share 8 nights). All meals (gourmet 5 star), airfares & transfers (airfares ex Melbourne, other ports available on price request), plus dive package only $200 for 11 boat dives. Contact Ian Lockwood on 9885-8863 for further details: allwaysdive@allwaystravelservice.com 005
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