Harper's Bazaar Arabia

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Dummy Slug Splurge on designer labels and exotic finds in thriving Delhi before jetting to the dramatic Himalayas for some five-star R&R Words by Alexandra Shakespeare

Passage to

264| Harper’s BAZAAR | April 2008

trekking in the Himalayas rather than the usual prose centred around yet another pavement-pounding trip to London or New York. What’s more, with tight links to the Dubai style fraternity – designers Tarun Tahilinai and JJ Valaya and boutiques such as Kimaya all have outlets in our home city – it’s a no-brainer for any self-respecting cool-seeker. It may sound like a lot of ground to cover but Delhi, riding high to the north of the country, is just three hours flight from The colourful streets of a Delhi market

Dubai and it’s only another hour’s flight to the majestic Middle Himalayas. Break up the journey by booking in at the awardwinning Oberoi New Delhi, where oldworld interior details meet modern architecture, for a unique return to Indian opulence – noughties style – within all 131 deluxe rooms and a variety of graded suites (if you book the Kohnioor apartment-size suite it really would be rude not to host a lavish party for the local glitterati). The five-star hotel is about a 10-minute cab ride from the heart of the city and just 30 minutes by car from the airport. Head straight to the hotel’s Dubai-standard spa for some post-flight R&R – a dedicated Ayurvedic therapy and hydroptherapy room add a unique Asian spin on the whole experience. For culture vultures, Delhi is, of course, rich in history. Colonised by the Mughal emperor Babur in 1525, the Persians in the 18th century and more recently by the British, it’s no wonder that Delhi boasts such a mixture of influences. The city is home to the biggest mosque in India, Jama Masjid, and the striking Red Fort, which dates back to the Mughal dynasty – both

photographs: axiom photographic agency/gallo/getty images

I

f India was hot in the last round of couture collections – from Gaultier’s Maharaja turbans to Dior gowns that harked back to the last days of the Raj – the country is positively sizzling right now, with the spring/summer 2008 showing even more influence, including red carpet favourite Marchesa, whose Indian-infused collection was entitled “Raj And In Charge”. Meanwhile, India’s own fashion scene is bulging with international mega-brands from Vuitton to Versace, as well as a bevy of homegrown talent attracting the attention of Asian celebrities like Shilpa Shetty, who walked the runway at Wills India Fashion Week spring/summer 2008 in support of Indian designer Tarun Tahiliani. For big spenders demanding exotica, luxury city experiences and country retreats in equal measure, try a journey through India that begins in the capital’s coolest hang-outs and finishes in the vertigoinducing hot-spot of Shimla, in the Himalayas. For location and culture, it beats other town-and-country breaks hands down. Just think of the post-trip dinnerparty conversation, casually regaling tales of

India


clockwise from top left: courtesy alexandra shakespeare, robert harding, excel media/rex features, aa travel library/alamy, the travel library

travel are well worth a visit. The Red Fort is a magnificent landmark: by day you can admire the imposing sandstone and gilded marble buildings and grounds and by night there’s a spectacular light show with music and historical narrative resounding around the majestic building. Sightseeing out of the way, it’s time to explore Delhi’s burgeoning boutique scene. The Hauz Khaz Village Complex houses local designer favourites such as Ritu Kumar and Ogaan, while for typically authentic Indian souvenirs, from beautiful silk pyjamas and leather slippers to handicrafts, all for next to nothing, a few hours in the buzzy Connaught Place is essential. And if you haven’t already found something suitable to wear for dinner, The Oberoi, New Delhi, is not only the most prestigious hotel in town but also the most fashionable: Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Gucci have all set up shop here, and the Oberoi’s trendy Club Bar is where you’ll find the local cognoscenti – fashion designers and socialites alike – sipping their aperitifs. Go straight from your spree to your supper, at the hotel’s chic Italian restaurant, Travertino, launched in association with the prestigious Hassler hotel in Rome (a favourite with Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes) or, for top-end northern Indian cuisine, try the Imperial hotel’s relaxed Spice Route restaurant. After a couple of days’ living it up in bustling Delhi, you’ll be ready for the relaxed charm of Shimla, more than 8,000 feet up in the Himalayas. Once a summer retreat for the British, including Rudyard Kipling, these days, Shimla is favoured by the Bollywood elite. Many of the mockTudor and neo-Gothic buildings date back to the early 19th century colonial inhabitants, and if it wasn’t for the breathtaking mountains, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in a small market town in England – especially with the cool evenings in spring. Make sure you pack a light jacket and a couple of your favourite Loro Piana cashmere cardigans. The most atmospheric accommodation is the exclusive Oberoi Wildflower Hall, which looks enviably over rugged mountains, snow-clad peaks, verdant meadows and cedar forests, and was rebuilt on the spot where Lord Kitchener once lived in the time of the British Raj.

The hotel is 45 minutes outside Shimla itself, a stunning drive through the mountains in the Oberoi’s chauffeur-driven Land Cruiser, complete with music compilation, hot tea and towels. Make sure you ask for an early morning alarm call one morning, so you can watch the sun rising over the dramatic peaks of the Himalayas. Wildflower’s private nature reserve boasts a family of tigers (fear not, they tend to only come out at night) and the views from the trail are incredible. Manooj Biswas, Wildflower’s activities manager, makes an extremely knowledgeable guide: brought up in the area, he read ecology at Shimla University and can talk you through the indigenous flora and fauna of the trail with such passion that even the weeds will soon hold an allure. You can pick up the pace with a horse or mountain bike ride through the hills, and a picnic in the blooming garden at The Peak, a British Viceroy summer retreat built in 1863 (and now the

backdrop to many a Bollywood movie), is not to be missed. Naturally, all this activity and fresh air will leave you ravenous and, while you may be in a remote Indian retreat, you can still expect fine dining every day at Wildflower Hall. Feast on yoghurt patties, fried bindi [okra] with masala French fries and Hyderabadi aubergine in a spicy peanut sauce or tuck into a Mediterranean-style creamy risotto if that’s more to your taste. Daily Ashtanga yoga lessons with the hall’s in-house guru, Dinesh, will ensure all that feasting doesn’t equal guilt, while Dinesh’s uniquely formulated yoga massage treatments are a sneakier way to feeling good. Gliding straight into the luxurious outdoors Jacuzzi, which overlooks the natural beauty of the mountains, beneath clear skies by day or a blanket of stars by night, you really will want for little else. Except, perhaps, a private jet to whizz you back to Dubai… ■ Fly with Emirates (emirates.com) from Dubai to Delhi from Dhs2,340 and with Jagson Airlines (jagsonairline.com) from Delhi to Shimla from Dhs460. The Oberoi, New Delhi (oberoidelhi.com) costs from Dhs1,830 per night and Wildflower Hall costs from Dhs1,690 per night (oberoiwildflowerhall. com). All prices are approximate.

“Delhi is home to the biggest mosque in India, Jama Masjid, and the striking Red Fort”

Shilpa Shetty for Turan Tahiliani Delhi, India’s capital city, is rich in history and culture. From the street markets and decaying colonial buildings to luxurious hotels and a burgeoning fashion scene, it’s a perfect city for big spenders who demand exotica.

April 2008 | Harper’s BAZAAR|265


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