BURKINA FASO - MALI - NIGER - SENEGAL
SOUVENIRS D'AFRIQUE... RĂŠpublique DĂŠmocratique du Congo Je me revois adolescente, insouciante et d'une curiositĂŠ dĂŠvorante, dans un avion militaire spartiate direction LĂŠopoldville (Kinshasa). =<;:98<;6 5321;6 02/.-, +6 *;)(98:;6 5321;6 '&&<2, +6 )%;6 3;<<;6 <.)/;6 -1.%/9;)-;$6 )%;6 #):98<;6 .<2%/;6 2";)/#2%3;$6)%;6!):9*9356&2<;--2%3;$6*;-6/<2%*-6.9-;2)(6!95<239 );-6;369::. 9#;- % 9%6 9%-!2-26 6 ;-6 2";%);-6 9%3;<:9%2 #;-$6 -;-6 :2<&!5-6 2)(6 &.)#;)<-6 2<& ;% &9;#$6 *;-6 <)93-6 2:29-6")-$6*)63219.&2612<3.)3$6)%;6"5/53239.%62)(6 #;)<-6&!2<%);-61<;- );6"9<9#;-,;36)%;6 .)#;$6 tantĂ´t en mouvement, tantĂ´t endormie comme hypnotisĂŠe par la chaleur. Des femmes d'une beautĂŠ irritante mâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;apparaissaient telles des reines, Ă lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;allure hautaine, des turbans sur la tĂŞte Ă la structure architecturale. Une force transpirait de leurs corps d'ĂŠbène ! Tout me semblait trop, absurde, des scènes de thÊâtre. Matadi,1 la forĂŞt, le fleuve et puis le spectacle du port qui mâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;absorbait. Ringo mon ami chimpanzĂŠ qui faisait du vĂŠlo avec moi, pendu sur mon dos. 2 .3;$6 .% .)<, 6 .%6 1;<<. );36 /<9-$6 ) 9$6 -9 #2936 #;6 <5";9#6 .)6 #;6 -9#;%&;6 *;6 # 2<:5;6 ;36
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caresser docilement pour donner aussitĂ´t après un coup de bec qui laissait des traces 1<. .%*;-6 -)<6 #26 :29%, +6 1;)3 3<;6 1.)<6 -;6 ";%/;<6 * 3<;6 &.%-9*5<56 &.::;6 #;6 .) .%6 *;6 %.3<;6 petite cour dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;enfants. Il ĂŠtait capable de chanter comme un refrain une chanson qui passait Ă la radio plusieurs fois par jour et qui est gravĂŠe dans ma mĂŠmoire comme un clou plantĂŠ dans une planche : ÂŤ Mobutu, Mobutu, 5 ans, restera au pouvoir 5 ans, 5 ans...Âť 0;6<;-32)<2%36026=;</.#2$6# ! 3;#6 ;:#9%/,+6#;-6 6 . -6 6 )963<2"29##29;%36 6#26:29-.%,+6#26 9##;6 );6 :26 :8<;6 2"2936 2&&);9##9;6 12<&;6
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:29-.%6*2%-6#;6 )2<39;<6!)1156*)6 .)#;"2<*60):): 2 Je ne voyais que de la force guerrière presque hostile dans les regards noirs et profonds des femmes, des hommes et des enfants, et dans leurs -.)<9<;-65 #.)9--2%3-6;362)*2&9;)(6 6 #-6:;6 29-29;%36 peur ! Ils m'aveuglaient ! Une rÊalitÊ inconnue, intrÊpide, trop dure pour moi ÊlevÊe dans le coton à Rome, une rÊalitÊ dont même aujourd'hui adulte, je ne comprends pas encore le mystère. Ni même la source de cette force, de ce tempÊrament Êpatant, de ce charme attachant et 9%;(1#9&2 #;6 ) 5". );6#;6:.36 6' '6 Maria Elena Cuomo .#605.1.#*"9##;6 6 232*9$6 6
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AFRICAN MEMORIES... Democratic Republic of Congo I see myself, a light-hearted, inquisitive eager young teenager aboard a military plane preparing to land in the newly appointed capital of Leopoldville, Kinshasa. First stop in Lagos; second stop in Accra; spongy heavy red earth, a blinding orange light, a caressing dampness, huge, hieratic and motionless birds... At long last, this is Kinshasa. Never ending boulevards; markets of rainbow hues; exotic fruits and vegetables never seen before; tapioca on every stall; fleshy flowers and plants, almost virile. People, always in motion or sat on the ground, drowsy and spellbound by the warmth. Ladies of a disturbing beauty, dressed like queens to my astonished eyes. Me, a fair-haired girl from Rome with a post-war conservative and austere inheritance, marvelling at
these
perspiring
majestic
bodies
of
ebony
with
headdresses
to
rival
the
Coliseum
architecture! Everything seemed to me to be in excess; a magical, confusingly overwhelming theatre of the absurd. 1
Matadi, the jungle, the river, the activity of the port which captivated me. ‘Ringo’, my pet chimpanzee who cycled everywhere, arms tight on my shoulders. 2
Mbote, hello! My grey parrot, Bubi, screeched the alarm each morning and pronounced words with a raspy sound which came from beyond the grave. It would let itself caress docilely and peck immediately as if to revenge for being treated the jester of our playground. Its endless daily repetitions of the popular radio song “Mobutu, Mobutu, 5 years, will stay in power 5 years, 5 years...” remains stuck in my head all these decades later. “La Pergola” restaurant, the “Memling” hotel; the young servants; the little girl my mother took under her wing because she had been abandoned by her family... We lived in a grand house on the boulevard Lumumba. For me, a young naive teenager who had never left her native Italy, the dark looks and broad smiles of women, men and children were almost hostile, too strong to cope with. I was scared! I was awestruck! It was a whole new reality for me, who had been so pampered. A reality whose mystery still remains unsolved today. What is the origin of the strength, of
the
splendid
nature,
of
the
appealing
and
inexplicable charm which evokes the word AFRICA? Maria Elena Cuomo
1 Matadi is a port in the Democratic republic of Congo which is also the capital of Bas-Congo province. Matadi is located on the left bank of the Congo river, halfway between the Atlantic ocean and the capital Kinshasa. The port serves as a major import and export point for the whole nation. Cargo ships harbor there and supply trains and trucks heading to Kinshasa. 2 Mbote means ‘Hello’ in Lingala language. Lingala is widely used in both Democratic Republic of Congo and Republic of Congo where it has become an official language, largely used in the media, in the army, in the administration as well as in popular culture. Alongside French, Kikongo, Swahili Tshiluba, Lingala is one of the four official languages in Democratic Republic of Congo.
A niger
sénégal
A
burkina faso
A
A
mali
A
république démocratique du congo
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Mopti, Mali:
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Peul, Niger:
Les Peuls, appelĂŠs aussi Fulani, sont majoritairement musulmans. Outre la bravoure, la notion de la beautĂŠ est un des aspects caractĂŠristiques de la culture des Peuls. Souvent ĂŠlancĂŠs, et dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;une ĂŠlĂŠgance naturelle, les Peuls ont une morphologie de visage 98765432517.-, + *2)+ 9(76.'6+ 8&.4+ %5.76$+ ".)+ &!6. .'6)+ 83 + 4(32.37)+ $42868'6.)+ .6+ ) . .225)).'6+ 8&.4+ ".)+ 5 (3 + $28 (7$)-+ .)+ 686(38 .)+ "3+ &5)8 .+ ).7&.'6+ )(3&.'6+ + 2 5".'65%54865('+ 675 82.+ .6+ familiale dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;un individu. La diversitĂŠ de la culture peul est reliĂŠe par un fil conducteur commun : un ).')+85 3+".+)(5+.6+3'.+8" $7.'4.+%.7 .+ +28+678"565('The origin of the Peul, known also as Fulani, remains one of the mysteries of African History. Fulanis descended from nomads from both North Africa and from sub-Sahara Africa. Bravery and beauty are two notions which characterise their culture. Fulanis possess a distinctive type of face. Their facial tattoos are an unmistakable trait of tribal or family identification. Tall and with a natural elegance, they wear brightly coloured attire with pride, bodies adorned with elaborate jewellery. Their immense cultural diversity over different geographical regions share nevertheless some common aspects: a highly accentuated subjectivity and a firm adherence to their tradition.
SoudourĂŠ, Niger: Village situĂŠ dans lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ouest du Niger, le long du fleuve Niger, au nord-ouest de la capitale Niamey, SoudourĂŠ est connue comme lieu de naissance de Hamani Diori, le 1er prĂŠsident du Niger indĂŠpendant. SoudourĂŠ is a village in western Niger. It is located along the Niger River northwest of the capital city, Niamey. SoudourĂŠ is known as the birthplace of Hamani Diori, who served as the first president of an independent Niger.
GorĂŠe, SĂŠnĂŠgal: 2.+".+ (7$.+.)6+)563$.+ + + +".)+4 6.)+".+ 8 87-+ (5'6+".+"$9876+".)+ '8&57.)+ 678')9(768'6+ 2.)+ .)428&.)+ &.7)+ 2.)+ 686) '5) + 2 2.+ .)6+ 428))$.+ 98675 (5'.+ ('"582+ 987+ 2 '.)4(GorĂŠe is a small island, located 2 km from the main harbor of Dakar. It is best known for its so-called Slave House that served as one of the departing points for the slave ships to America. *6+5)+".)5 '86."+8+ '.)4(+ (72"+ .7568 .+ 56.-
Saint-Louis, SĂŠnĂŠgal:
Saint Louis, ville situĂŠe au Nord-Ouest du SĂŠnĂŠgal, a ĂŠtĂŠ la capitale de lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Afrique occidentale française entre 1673 et 1902. Saint Louis est une ancienne ville coloniale oĂš lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;on peut dĂŠcouvrir des crĂŠations architecturales datant du dĂŠbut du XIXème siècle. Saint-Louis is located in the northwest of Senegal, near the mouth of the River. It was the capital of the French colony of Senegal from 1673 until 1902 and French West Africa from 1895 until 1902, when the capital was moved to Dakar. From 1920 to 1957 it also served as the capital of the neighboring colony of Mauritania. It is an old colonial city retaining much of its early 19th century architecture.
Signare, Senegal:
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Afrique en couleurs (2012), Palette de l’ artiste-plasticien Kalidou Kasse, Fondateur de la galerie « Ateliers du Sahel » Dakar, Sénégal
Afrique en couleurs (2012), The Visual Artist Kalidou Kasse’s Palette, Founder - Ateliers du Sahel Gallery, Dakar, Senegal
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Lumière, Couleur, Chaleur Une palette de couleurs, des plantes exubérantes, une chaleur écrasante qui fait danser les formes, des foules bigarrées toujours en mouvement, et par-dessus tout ce formidable élan de vie - un véritable et pur plaisir d’exister. La beauté des femmes à l'allure hautaine pleine de dignité, les fillettes aux cheveux épineux ou ébouriffés, aux sourires éclatants et aux regards malicieux, qui profitent des petites choses de la vie. AFRICA l'explosive, AFRICA la belle, AFRICA la mystérieuse, AFRICA lénifiante mais toujours vibrante !
Light, colours and warmth A Palette of Colours, the exuberant flowers and plants, a stifling suffocating heat that blurs the vision and transforms exotic shapes, rainbow crowds in perpetual movement, an impassioned impulse for life, a pure pleasure of existence. The beauty of women, imperious and full of dignity and their little girls with unique decorated hair, mischievous looks, dazzling smiles, making the most from the simple things in life. Africa Entrancing, Africa Beautiful, Africa Mysterious, Africa Explosive, AFRICAN VIBRATIONS.
Maria Elena CUOMO
Coordination éditoriale / Editorial Coordination Maria Elena Cuomo © Cuomo Foundation, 2015 Tous droits réservés / All Rights Reserved Cuomo Foundation 4, rue R.P. Louis Frolla 98000 Monaco