t
TOM FORD BLACK OR CHID The current print advertisement for Tom Ford’s Black Orchid Perfume was released in Autumn 2013, when Polish model Zuzanna Bijoch became the new face of Black Orchid (Beauty Scene, 2013). However, the product itself has a deeper history, with this perfume having been originally created in 2006 by the fragrance company Givaudan; who worked alongside Tom Ford to produce the first signature fragrance for the Tom Ford Beauty line (Singer, 2006). This makes it a key fragrance within the Tom Ford Beauty range, which now has 46 fragrances (Fragrantica, 2014), including the prestige line Tom
Fig. 2
Ford Private Blend.
The release of an updated advertisement not only refreshes the product ’s image, but it also offers the brand a chance to reference the its roots as Tom Ford’s first fragrance. However, this isn’t the only historical reference made within the advertisement, the model’s styling , hair and make-up all allude to various figures from fashion and society through the ages; one of the most prominent references here is to Marchesa Casati. Casati was said to be the ‘most scandalous woman of her day ’ (Ryersson & Yaccarino, 2009), she was ‘Europe’s most notorious celebrity, and it ’s most eccentric’ (Ryersson & Yaccarino, 2009). Her extravagant lifestyle was one to be envied; she wore live snakes as jewellery and strolled naked through the streets with her pet cheetahs on diamond-studded leashes (Ryersson & Yaccarino, 2009). This lifestyle of extravagance and overindulgence is one that reflects the lifestyle that the Fig. 1
Tom Ford brand tries to create and is sold alongside their luxury products. Casati ’s look was equally bold and often extremely Gothic, she became best known for her dark, heav y eye make-up; a look that is often used within fashion image and has been used again here in the Black Orchid advertisement to distinctly reference Casati (Wagner, 2008).
Fig. 3
Sarah Bernhardt, dubbed ‘the most famous
hairstyle is also a reflection of the film Noir era,
actress the world has ever known’ (Springer,
which occurred in the 1940’s and 1950’s (Owen,
2013) and nicknamed ‘Divine Sarah’ (Biography
n/a). Film noir, which in its day was fresh and vivid,
Channel, 2014) was an interesting character with
and often had darker narratives characterized
a quirky personality that shone both on and off
by pessimism, fatalism and menace (Oxford
stage. Having worn a dead bat as an accessory and
Dictionaries, n/a), for an adult-orientated audience
once travelled round America accompanied by an
(Muller, n/a), is also reflected within Tom Ford
alligator (Laing , 2010), she became well known for
Black Orchid through the use of heav y contrast and
eccentric showmanship. As well as this, Bernhardt
a large amount of dark space; this is a reflection on
also infamously slept in a coffin as opposed to a
the narratives of the time, more so than the visual
bed (Yates, n/a), this was something that reflected
style, which may reflect the perfumes own narrative
her worries about death, and her interest in
background.
the dark and mysterious; two emotions evoked within the Black Orchid advertisement through
Fig. 4
Fig. 8
The use of the orchid within the advertisement
the combination of deep black and the luxurious connotations of the orchid (Moon, n/a).
The bottle design itself also has historical
has connotations of power and authority, as well
also just common sense marketing – put a bottle of
as symbolising elite class and implying submission,
scent in a woman’s cleavage, or between her thighs
two ideas that could be considered to perfectly
– and men will notice” (Vogue UK, 2009).
reflect the target consumer for Tom Ford, as well
reference within its art Deco styling , which
as the product narrative. The use of black orchid
relates back to the 1920’s and an era of glamour,
within the fragrance itself also hints back at
sophistication and extravagance; this sits perfectly
historical ideas believed by some societies that
with the fragrances connotations of luxury and
consuming the orchid could transfer its power; in
indulgence, as well as the brand values, which also
particular, the Aztec, who would drink the orchid
include extravagance and indulgence. These ideas
with vanilla (Moon, n/a), another ingredient used
also tie in with current trends that show 1920’s
in the Black Orchid fragrance (Fragrantica, 2014).
fashion making a come-back after the success of the
Fig. 5
The make-up used alludes to the colours of the
2013 remake of ‘ The Great Gatsby ’ (Brown, 2013);
Black Orchid, reinforcing this idea of delivering
making the release of an updated advertisement
empowerment to the consumer.
appear to keep the product relevant within today ’s
Black Orchid print advertisement has been carefully constructed in order to tell an elaborate story that the consumer can buy into. For this reason, I believe that the advertisement works well for the brand, as it captures several elements that truly reflect the brand’s core values. It also sits well with the idea of selling a lifestyle alongside the Tom Ford brand. The advert was sourced from the April 2014 edition of Vogue UK, I think this is a good place for Tom Ford to advertise as it will target the luxury
fashion world, whilst also reinforcing its appearance
The overall tone of the advertisement is
as a timeless fragrance.
There are also several other film references that
This also allows Ford to place his advert alongside
one of provocative intent that draws the audience
those of his competitors, such as Gucci, Gaultier
into a story of indulgence and sexual desires. This
and Cavalli.
is visible in the styling of the model, the contrast
example, ‘Black Narcissus’, a 1947 film that tells
of naked skin against a minimal black clothing
a story of being led astray from religion into the
makes the audience automatically associate
realms of exoticism and sexual desire (IMDb, n/a).
consumer, that can afford to indulge in the product.
sexuality and sensuality; the model’s expression is
could be associated with the advertisement; for
This narrative strongly reflects the undertones
In conclusion, as stated above, the Tom Ford
the connotations of sex and intimacy. This is an Fig. 6
expected angle, as Ford has always openly shown an
that this advert creates, as well as the story Ford
interest with the naked body and the female form,
is trying to tell. This would be reference chosen by
stating “it may sound strange, but I’ve always found
Tom Ford, who has a strong interest in film, as well
people more beautiful naked than when they are
as his own production company, ‘Fade to Black’,
dressed” (Carter, G & Foley, B. 2004, p.89). Not only
which he opened in 2005, under which he has co-
does this image sit well with the brand’s values,
written, produced and directed a film called ‘A
it also is similar to several of Tom Ford’s previous
Single Man’ (Tom Ford, 2014).
advertisements that have also used the same idea about using sex to sell the product. For example, his 2007 banned perfume add that featured provocative
The genre of Film Noir could also be considered a
product placement caused a stir in the media; Tom
reference here as the use of strong make-up relates
Ford responded to the controversy by stating “I
back to when make-up would be exag gerate so as to be seen clearly in black and white film. The
suppose, yes, I’ve been guilty of provocation but it ’s Fig. 7
Fig. 9
Biblio gr aphy
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List of Illustr ations Fig. 1.
2013. Photograph, Tom Ford. Model: Zuzanna Bijoch.
Fig. 2.
2014. Photograph, Tom Ford. Subject: Tom Ford Private Blend Collection.
Fig. 3.
1908. Painting, Giovanni Boldini. Subject: Portrait of Marchesa Luisa Casati.
Fig. 4.
1882. Photograph, Unknown. Subject: Sarah Bernhart asleep in a coffin.
Fig. 5.
2014. Photograph, Tom Ford. Subject: Tom Ford Black Orchid, Fragrance Bottle.
Fig. 6.
1947. Poster, Unknown. Subject: ‘Black Narcissus’ Movie Poster.
Fig. 7.
1944. Photograph, Unknown. Subject: Gene Tierney as ‘Laura’.
Fig. 8.
Date Unknown. Photograph, Unknown. Subject: Black Orchid Plant.
Fig. 9.
2007. Photograph, Tom Ford. Photographer: Terry Richardson.
Vogue UK (2014). Vogue UK. United Kingdom: Condé Nast. WAGNER, C.H. (2008). John Galliano by John Galliano. Available: http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2008/10/john_galliano_eau_de_parfum_ pe.html. Last accessed 24th March 2014.
Word Count: 1085
Warner Bros. (2013). Guide to Style. Available: http://thegreatgatsby.warnerbros.com/?filter=style. Last accessed 22nd March 2014.
Name: Alice Hoar Student Number: N0501533 Module Code: FASH10106 (Creative Networks)
YATES, D. (n/a). Sarah Bernhardt Biography. Available: http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0076800/bio. Last accessed 25th March 2014.