Buying and Merchandising by Alice Johnson

allsaints T RO U S E R S S S

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Alice Johnson 16104304 Buying and Merchandising

Contents Page

CO N T E N T S 4

32 33 36 38

BRAND I N T RO D U C T I O N

6 8 9 10

HANDWRITING ICONIC GARMENTS MUSES PREVIOUS

STREETSTYLE CELEBRITY KEY SHAPES FABRICS AND

TEXTURES

COLLECTIONS

12 26

SWOT

TREND

D E TA I L S

ETHICS AND S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

COMPETITION S H O P A NA LY S I S

44 46 50

FINAL RANGE C R I T I C A L PAT H S

CONSUMER OUTFIT BUILDS

TREND DIRECTION C AT WA L K A NA LY S I S

PAG E

REFERENCES

Brand Introduction

B R A N D I N T RO D U C T I O N

Allsaints is a British contemporary brand who operate in the high end high street market sector. It that was established in 1994 as a menswear retailer. It started off selling in department stores such as Harvey Nichols, Barneys and Harrods before opening its first store in 1997. This store was in Carnaby Street, London and a year after it’s opening they began to make womenswear. Almost a decade later in 2006 Allsaints launched their e-commerce site which was later updated in 2009 to include international versions (Fashion Review, 2011). During 2010 and 2011 Allsaints were effected massively by Icelandic banking collapse as one bank was a main investor however it changed hands to US investors Goode Partners and Lion Capital. Since then Allsaints have managed recover and now have stores in 20 countries including Mexico, Turkey, and South Korea as well as shipping to 200 countries (Allsaints Linkedin, 2017).

AT T I T U D E , I N D I V I D U A L I T Y, A N D C R E AT I V I T Y

MISSION S TAT E M E N T They aim to “operate within a

culture of innovation and design with an independent spirit” (The Dots, n/d). A way they do this is through their close links to music and film industries. Their mission statement states they want to create the perfect formula with a blend of music, film and fashion to create desirable clothing (Style Logue, 2011).

Handwriting

H A N DW R I TI N G 11

Allsaints aesthetic is a dark urban look

which is projected in their stores using worn interior. Floors are deep brown ruined wood with distressed grey brickwork for the walls. Oxidised metal caging creates the stairways and walls to bring an outside feel inside. Heavy spotlights are hung from the ceiling to give selective amount of light in the store to keep the gritty feel. Black metal railings and chains are placed for the clothes to hang on. Their iconic traditional sewing machines create window displays, walls and clothes rails. The colour of them means they fit in with the dark grungy palette as well as bringing in a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;hand-madeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; feel.

Iconic garments

Muses

I CO N I C L E AT H E R

G A R M E N T S

BIKER

JAC K E T S

P O RT R A I T

their iconic leather jackets for

SERIES

Allsaints are well known for both men’s and women’s. This

M U S E S 28

The campaign started in 2014

is a piece of clothing which has

aimed to capture the brands

well-known history with music.

relationship with the jacket.

Prices start at £318 and go up to

The series took place in London,

£420. The types of leather they

Venice, Los Angeles, Tokyo,

are made up of include lamb,

and New York and featured

sheep, goat and cow leather and

individuals that Allsaints felt

are all manufactured in India.

were inspiring and expressed the attitude and spirit of the biker jackets.

RU T H A N D M A Y B E L L

M AYA T H U R M A N - H AW K E

photographed wearing the iconic leather jacket in their own way

campaign “Far-from-here”. It was shot in her hometown of Woodstock

They appeared in Allsaints #HAPPYMONDAY campaign where they

Maya is a 18 year actress who starred in Allsaints spring 2017

(Belinky, 2015). Ruth and May are British models were have been

and mainly involved the actress floaty around in over-grown fields in

with agency Elite since 2013 when they were spotted in Lakeside

a delicate white summer dress. It was a contrast to the usual gritty

shopping centre in Essex.

urban locations however Allsaints signatures still remained with battered biker boots.

Previous Collections

P R E V I O U S

CO L L E C T I O N S

SS 13

M AY 1 5

APRIL 16

Allsaints transformed their jackets for SS by making them sleeveless. The denim appeared white, grey and acid washed. Colours such as dusky pink were introduced in forms of fitted blazers. Boots changed from their iconic black to a light brown.

JULY 16

LOOKBOOK

pair of white dungarees with

presen, in Aprils 16s lookbook,

these summer collections, again

rolled hems. Lighter fabrics such

over a knitted see-through maxi

in short shorts aswell as a

as suede were used for jackets

dress and bodysuit. Another

over-sized shirt wore as a dress.

instead of heavy leather. Short

dress style was a light silk piece

A large black mesh top hung

shorts also came in suede aswell

which had a large monochrome

over the white outfit to give a

as white denim. Knits appeared

floral print. Lighter colours came

grungier feel to the summer

in v-neck sleeveless tops for a

from the faint pink suede jacket

outfit. A faint pink blouse had a

summery feel.

with silver metal detailing and

feminine touch with frill details.

denim white jeans.

This was styled with black acid

May 15â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lookbook included a

in lighter colours by being

A iconic black leather jacket was

White denim appeared in all

washed shorts and a chunky belt to darken the look.

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Competition Shop Analysis

CO M P E T I T IO N S H O P A NA LY S I S 14

INSTORE BIRMINGHAM BULLRING

In the Birmingham store, there was four options of trousers, three options of leggings and one jogging pant. This included the Aledia trousers in dusky pink pair priced at £98. Manufactured in Turkey they are made of a 78% viscose and 22% polyester mix. The design of them included an elastic channel waistband which gives a more casual look to a formal trouser with a straight regular leg. They were of a high quality, the

E - C O M M E RC E W E B S I T E

Online and in total there is a selection of 13 options and 20 styles. These include leggings as well as tailored trousers.

fabric had a weight to it however still draped to

Majority come in black with colours ranging to navy, grey,

create the relax feel. Online this pair also comes

white and oxblood and were all one full colour, no patterns

in Khaki green and black however these were

or prints were used. Designs included full length straight

not available in store. It is an example where All

leg trousers with fly zips, a high rise cropped wide leg and

saints have used an accent colour such as pink.

full length leg with poppers. Fabrics differed between

All other trousers in store came in one of their

cottons, silks, polyesters, polyamides and elastanes. Prices

core colour, black. Quality was consistent in all

start at £35 for their best selling leggings up to £148. Sizes

pairs of trousers with construction always being

range from UK 2 to 14.

neat with all seams running in straight lines and no stitching visible on the outside.

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Competition Shop Analysis

BEST SELLERS 75

For the trouser department Allsaints best sellers are leggings. They are all causal wear and more staple pieces. The leggings and jogging pants were both present in the Allsaints bullring store and the concessions store in Selfridges in Birmingham. Their price points are considerably lower than the trousers making accessible to a larger market which is important for a staple piece. This also shows not having a best seller trouser means this isn’t one of their strongest departments.

BRIX

RAFFI

URBAN

LEGGINGS

JOGGING

Price - £35

Price: £40

Sizes - S, M, L

Sizes: XS, S, M, L

Colours - Black, Charcoal

Colours: Charcoal, black

Fabric - 86% cotton, 7% polyamide,

Fabric: 45% cotton, 45% modal, 10%

7% elastance

elastane

Manufactured - Portugal

Manufactured: Portugal

Description - Made from a stretch

The stretch cotton gives the

cotton blend to create a snug fit

leggings a tight fit with a skirted

with ribbed detail side panels.

waistband, bringing something different to the legging.

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PA N T Price: £68

Sizes: XS, S, M, L Colours: Ice white, jet black, mid charcoal grey Fabric: Cotton Manufactured: Portugal These sweatpants sit closely to the body with a drawstring waistband for the fastening and cuffed ankles.

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Competition Shop Analysis

CO M P E T I T IO N S H O P A NA LY S I S 48

INSTORE BIRMINGHAM BULLRING

Cos had a much larger selection of trousers in store compared to Allsaints with 36 styles in total. While it transitioned from winter to spring pieces there was a mix of more winter suitable pieces and spring. Wideleg designs were very common and came in a range of fabrics including cotton, cashmere, silk, leather, and wool. Heavier pairs

56 50

E - C O M M E RC E W E B S I T E

Online and in total Cos have a selection of 31 options 50

styles. Pricing architecture started at £17 for their ribbed

included knitted wool trousers made in Cambodia.

leggings up to £250 for slim-fit leather trousers which

Cos had styles which suited different occasions

were made up of 100% lamb leather and came in black

such as loungewear, day-time and night-pieces

and dark berry. The price point averaged between £59 -

which varied in casual and formal. Cos pride

£79.

themselves on their quality of garments and

Different styles included slim, straight, tapered and

therefore want manufacture to be done correctly.

wide leg. Lengths varied being full length, cropped and

There trousers were made in a selection of places

ankle grazers. Fastenings include ties with belt loops,

such as China, Romania and Cambodia. Wideleg

elastic waistbands, fly zip, drawstrings, hook and bar zip

cotton trousers made in China varied in prices

fastenings.

from £69 to £99. All construction of the garments

Similar to Allsaints majority of the trousers came in

was of a high quality. This meant there was no

black, navy and grey however colours such as green, red,

loose threads or wonky lines of stitching, all seams

brown aswell as patterned trousers.

were the same size and were always straight.

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Competition Shop Analysis

CO M P E T I T IO N S H O P A NA LY S I S 61

INSTORE BIRMINGHAM BULLRING

Similar to Cos, Whistles offered a larger selection of trousers with 17 styles in store. The trousers were organised by outfit building and on average around 3 pairs of one style were displayed. Styles varied from jogger silhouette to formal trousers. A popular pair which were placed at the front of the store were black wide-leg trouser with

68 62

E - C O M M E RC E W E B S I T E

Whistles offered much bigger selection of trousers than

Allsaints with 35 options and 37 styles. Size ranges come

contrasting striped side seams giving a athlesiure

in from 4-16 UK as well as extra small to large. Similar

feel. Plain colour trousers with block colours from

to Allsaints the leggings was the cheapest item at ÂŁ55,

piping or panels and wide legged styles were also

this stretch fabric was made from 82% Polyamide, 13%

in the store. Fly zips and hook and eyes were

Polyester, 5% Elastane. Most expensive pair was the

more common in Whistles giving the trousers a

Anya Suede Trouser at ÂŁ449.00 which were made from

more formal/evening look, whereas in Allsaints

100% Goat Leather. The olive suede trouser had a relaxed

and COS elastic waistbands were appeared more.

silhouette with a cropped length. Although the core

Fabrics varied between cotton, polyester, linen and

colours for the trousers was black, a wider colour palette

cashmere and were manufactured in places such

was also used as colours such as greens, reds and oranges

as China, Monaco and Lithuania.

for the trousers. Whistles also had the most patterned trousers with 5 pairs with designs varying between pin strip, floral and dogtooth.

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Competition Shop Analysis

L I K E

F O R

L I K E

JENNER STRIPE

RELAXED C R E P E S AT I N

SLIM LEG A S T A R A T RO U S E R S

STRIPE

Price - £110

Price - £129

Fabric - 75% polyester, 18% viscose, 7%

Price - £148

Fabric - 75% polyester ,18% Viscose , 7% elastane Sizes - 2-14 UK Rise - Mid rise Length - Regular Fastening - Fly zip Pockets - 2 back welt pockets , 2 side slip pockets Colours - Black with white, Ink blue with black, Oxblood with navy Manufactured - China Description - An athleisure inspired tailored wide leg trouser

elastane

Fabric - 71% Acetate 29% Viscose

Sizes - UK 4-16

Sizes - UK 6-16

Rise - Mid rise

Rise - Mid Rise

Length - Regular

Fastening - Fly zip

Fastening- Elasticated waistband with

Pockets - Slant pockets sewn in side

press crease detailing

seam

Pockets - Slant pockets sewn into side

Colour - Navy with white stripes

seam

Manufactured - Lithuania

Colours - Black, Navy, Smoke, Khaki

Description - Another athleisure design

green Manufactured- Bulgaria

with slim straight leg trouser leg.

with crepe side stripes running down the side seams.

Description - Relaxed Crepe Trousers

with satin detail on the side seams 78

In this like for the like the best option would be the Whistles trousers. Both this pair and the Allsaints are made from the same fabric composition and include viscose to increase the quality however Whistles have a lower price point. Jigsaw do offer a high viscose count however the Acetate is not as heavy as the polyester making their quality not as high.

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Competition Shop Analysis

L I K E

F O R

L I K E HESTER CULOTTE

OVERSIZED C RO P P E D

Price - £170

Fabric - 100% polyester

A RY A T R O U S E R S

T RO U S E R

Sizes - UK 4-16

Price - £69

Rise - High rise

Price - £148

Fabric - 92% Polyester 8% Elastane

Length - Cropped

Fabric - 100% Polyester

Sizes -EU 34-44 (UK 8-18)

Fastening - Zip

Sizes - UK 2 - 14

Rise - High Rise

Pockets - Two slant pockets

Rise - High rise

Length - Cropped

Colour - Blue

Length - Cropped

Fastening- Back Zip and tie

Manufactured - Romania

Fastening -Concealed side zip fastening

Pockets - 2 in seam pockets

Description - A pair culottes that sit high on

Pockets - N/A

Colours - Black, Navy, Olive green

the waist with a fitted waistband to bring in

Colours - Black

Manufactured- Turkey

the silhouette. Contrasting white stitching

Manufactured - China

Description - These oversized cropped

was used to add decorative detail

Description - These tailored cropped wide leg trousers sit high

trousers have a dropped crouch which

on the waist with pressed pleats giving a flattering silhouette.

enhances the relaxed floaty feel. 83

In comparison the Cos trousers here offer the best option as although they contain small amount of elastane, 92% is still made out of polyester and the price is considerably lower. For the Whistle trousers the higher price is for the extra detailing of the decorative waistband.

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Competition Shop Analysis

L I K E

F O R

L I K E

S AT I N DA R K DENIM

RIBBED LEGGINGS

BRIX LEGGINGS

LEGGINGS

Price - £17

Price - £75

Fabric - 95% Cotton, 5% Elastane

Price - £35

Fabric - 88% cotton, 4% elastane, 8%

Sizes - XS, S, M, L

Fabric - 86% cotton, 7% polyamide, 7% elastance

polyester

Rise - High rise

Sizes - S, M, L

Sizes -UK 6-16

Length - Regular

Rise - High rise

Rise - High Rise

Fastening - Elasticated waistband

Length - Regular

Pockets - N/A

Fastening -Elasticated ribbed waistband

Fastening- Elasticated black waistband

Colour - Cobalt blue

Pockets - N/A

Manufactured - Turkey

Colours - Black, Charcoal

Colours - Dark denim

Description - Made from a soft cotton with a

Manufactured - Portugal

Manufactured- Turkey

slight stretch so they sit closely on the body

Description - Made from a stretch cotton blend to create a snug

Description - This pair has details such

The ribbed texture added finer detail.

fit with ribbed detail side panels.

as fake pockets and fly zips sewn in. It also has a sliver metallic zip in the side

seam with a black band waistband. 95

In this comparison prices vary by large margins however fabric composition is fairly similar with all having high counts of cotton.. However Karen Millen uses a heavy weight polyester to create a pair of leggings which have more structure and would sculpt the body. For a basic legging of high quality the best pair would be Allsaints, the fabric fits closely to the body to offer shape and comfort.

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Competition Shop Analysis

S WOT

A NA LY S I S

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

Recognisable aesthetic

Lack of brand’s aesthetic on the website

Known for high quality products

Strict aesthetic may keep some potential consumers

Strong prints in garments

away

Has a well known iconic garment - leather jacket

Limited colour palettes in some departments

Branching out globally with store openings

No evidence of ethical or sustainable programs they

Viewed as a aspirational place to shop

are involved in

Active use of social media

Lack of trouser options in store

Best sellers are leggings,a staple piece

No trousers are best sellers for Allsaints Lack of variety in shapes for trousers

Lack of confidence in the future economy due to

Exchange rates - pound getting weaker meaning exports

unknown circumstances of Brexit

becoming less expensive. Could increase global sales

Unknown future of trade deals with the EU

Develop website to make it more innovative

Exchange rate - pound getting weaker meaning imports

Introduce underwear department

becoming more expensive

Invest in ethical and sustainable programs

Trading with Turkey could be problematic

Increase visual merchandising in store

Increase interest in sustainable clothing from

Increase trouser options and styles

consumers which Allsaints do not have

Increase number of options and styles within store

Other companies investing in ethical programs

Create ‘best seller ’ trouser

Competitors doing more trouser options in their

Experiment with boarder range of colours

collections

Use more sustainable fabrics

Competitors doing more trouser options in store Competitors using more material options for trousers Competitors using wider colour palette in trousers

T H R E AT S

O P P O RT U N I T I E S

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Trend

104

Trend Direction

105

106

108

107

109

T R E N D 112

113

114

2 8

115

116

117

102

145

T R E N D 99

110

D I R E C T I O N 100

137

146

2 9

101

144

147

Catwalk Analysis

C AT WA L K Max mara

119

A NA LY S I S Chrisitian Dior

Versace

SLIM &

122

Etro

124

Stella McCartney

Daizy Shely

125

FLARED

126

Valentino

Ports 1961

130

131

C RO P P E D

AND BELL

WIDE LEG

lightweight tailoring

BOTTOMS

T RO U S E R S

Slim-leg trouser uses

materials to create a crisp

Floaty flares were created

look. The length is shorten

a cropped wide leg trouser.

While bell bottoms added

above the waist.

134

Culottes were updated into

from panels cut with a A-line.

above the ankle and cut high

Ellery

C RO P P E D

Designs varied from sturdy

volume to the leg silhouette.

cottons to light-weight silks.

Versus

118 120

PREMIUM

Vivienne Westwood

121

Giambattista Valli

123

PA P E R BAG

Sportsmax

126

Sies Marjan

127

Isabel Marchant

129

THE

LEGGINGS

WA I S T

PYJAMA

tight trousers cut from

from gathering and draping

spandex and sport stretch

fabric at the waistline.

PA N T

materials. Usually high

Designers used either ties or

waisted, they sculpt the body.

toggles to create the look.

Creating a second skin from

Creating contemporary styles

Emporio Armani

A relaxed full-length silhouette is created out of luxurious silks, velvets and shiny satins creating.

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131

Rochas

133

Stella McCartney

135

Streetstyle

Celebrity

S T R E E T

S T Y L E

C E L E B R I T Y 177

140

139

172

OLGA BOTSI

F O L LY R A E

Another up and coming artist

Folly is a half Norwegian half

is Olga who specialises in rock,

English Singer/Songwriter

T H E S T I R RU P

OVER

T RO U S E R

THE SHOE

image Olga is someone who

own sense of style she would

could boosts Allsaints mission

fit in with Allsaints aesthetic

statement of creating the perfect

as they are always looking at

formula of music and fashion.

musicians for inspiration and collaborations.

covered the shoe creating a

athleisure feel. The elastic strap

background and a distinct

young alternative feel and her

A flared trouser straight leg

closely-fitted trouser gives a

and blues. With strong musical

is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Hippy Electricâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. With an

T RO U S E R

Originally for sportswear, the

jazz, soul, pop, hip hop , funk

who says her genre of music

longer silhouette. This look was

was wore for effect over shoes.

seen in tailored trousers and jogging pants.

138

142

136

3 2

141

173

174

175

3 3

176

Key Shapes

K E Y SECOND SKIN

S H A PE S SLIM

TA L I O R E D

WIDE LEG

S T I R RU P

C RO P P E D

T RO U S E R

C RO P P E D

T RO U S E R

143

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P Y J A M A PA N T

Fabrics and Textures

FA B R I C S Joseph

201

Sonia Rykiel

A N D

T E X T U R E S

Haider Ackermann

203

SHINY

205

207

Diesel Black Gold

208

Louis Vuitton

TECHBLEND

are used to create luxurious

M AT E R I A L S

looks which floated down the

Gucci

Celine 213

214

F R AY E D

216

Fabrics are pulled to create

SILKS

Woven plush and soft silks

211

frayed away edges. It adds a disrupted worn look to garments

Synthetic materials such

catwalk.

as Spandex, Nylon and polyamide are woven together to create stretch fabric which sculpts the body to give a sport inspired look.

202

COTTON

204

206

LIGHT

DRILL

WEIGHT

constructed into clean

SUEDE

Knitted cotton drill is silhouettes to create tailored

Trussardi

209

Balenciaga

210

Cristiano Burani

212

AC I D WA S H Fabrics were distressed by

being acid washed all over. It added pattern onto sturdy fabrics such as cottons.

This material has the weight

pieces with a comptempoary

which cant be constructed

look..

into garments with shape however a lighter version is more spring/summer suitable.

3 6

3 7

215

217

Loewe

218

Details

D E TA I L S Tibi

154

Lucio vanotti

Jason Wu

155

CONTRAST

158

Alexander Wang

160

Isabel Marchant

161

Fashion East

163

Talbot Runhof

165

WA I S T BA N D

BINDING

D E TA I L S

the edges of garments. It

trousers on the runway

Tibi

166

Blumarine

167

Hermes

168

Monclear Gamme Rogue

170

With an high number of

Contrasting binding corners

increased the different types of

was a way accent colours

waistbands.

were added to create spring/

Fly zips and hook and eyes

summer looks.

gave a more formal look while elastic waistbands gave a snug fit round the waist. Drawstrings added decorative elements to the trousers.

Krizia

156

D-RING

Alexander Wang

Christopher Kane

157

123

CORDS

Designers added cords to

TIES

gather and reshape garments to create a flattering

D-rings are used as a

silhouette. Cords appear in

fastening to pull in garments

contrasting colours to the

at the waist. Normally in

rest of the garment and were

metal they stand out against

oversized for effect.

the fabric.

3 8

Marni

162

Mila Schon

164

POCKETS

Chloe

169

A variety of pockets were

RISES

High rises were very popular

seen on the catwalk.

and were seen being used in

Rectangle patch pockets were

both cotton and silk trousers

sewn on top the trousers as

as well as fitted elasticated

well as large rounded pockets

leggings. They created a

which were sewn into the

longer leg silhouette which

side seams. Contrast binding

was brought in on the waist.

was also used to decoratively

Mid rises were also present

highlight smaller rounded

and were used mainly in

pockets.

tailored trousers.

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Nina Ricci

171

Ethics and sustainability

E T H I C S O RG A N I C

Ethics and sustainability

A N D

S U S TA I NA B I L I T Y

148

R E H A B I L I TAT E D

151

YA RN S

COTTON

Allsaints could begin to work

A new method where waste

with companies such as Filmar.

materials are mixed with

They create organic cotton

recycled odds-and-ends yarns

to help promote sustainable

to form new ones (Palmer and

and ethical cotton production.

Casey,2017). Allsaints could

Instead of mechanised

invest in this new technique

harvesting which uses

as it would create recycled

chemicals, this organic cotton is

materials to use in manufacture

manually harvested. Allsaints

which would help cut down on

could bring in this material

waste.

for the manufacture of their garments as a more sustainable choice. It would also help

152

150

153

support the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 5-year programme to support education for young people in the textile industry (Casey,2016). 149

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Final Range

BRIX 2.0 LEGGINGS

F I NA L

R A N G E

C RO P P E D S U E D E T RO U S E R S

S T I R RU P T RO U S E R

D R A W S T R I N G C RO P P E D T RO U S E R

SILK PYJAMA T RO U S E R S

T A L I O R E D T RO U S E R WITH BINDING

T1603

T1604

T1606

T1608

T1607

T1605

Line Type

Core

Line Type

Core

Line Type

Fashion

Line Type

Trial

Line Type

Fashion

Line Type

Trail

Colour Options

Navy, Black Acid Wash

Colour Options

Black With Coral

Colour Options

Black

Colour Options

Grey

Colour Options

Navy, Icy Blue, Orange

Colour Options

Dusky Pink

Size Range

4-16 UK

Size Range

6-16 UK

Size Range

4-16 UK

Size Range

6-16 UK

Size Range

6-16 UK

Size Range

6-16 UK

Size Ratio

4:1,6;2,8;3,10:,12:2,14:2,16:1

Size Ratio

6:1,8:2,10:2,12:3,14:2,16:2

Size Ratio

4:1,6:2,8:3,10:2,12:2,14:2,16:1

Size Ratio

6:2,8:2,10:3,12:2,14:2,16:2

Size Ratio

6:1,8:3,10:3,12:2,14:2,16:2

Size Ratio

6:1,8:3,10:2,12:2,14:2,16:2

Order Quantities

3000 Units total

Order Quantities

3000 Units Total

Order Quantities

1200 Units Total

Order Quantities

600 Units Total

Order Quantities

1300 Units Total

Order Quantities

600 Units Total

Store Locations

Top 100 Stores

600 Navy, 400 Icy Blue, 300

1600 Navy, 1400 Black Acid

Orange

Wash Store Locations

All Stores

Store Locations

All Stores

4 2

Store Locations

All Stores

Store Locations

Top 100 Stores

Store Locations

All Stores

4 3

Critical Paths

C R I T I C A L Department

Trousers

Style number

T1604

Product discription

Taliored trouser with binding

Product line

Core

Country of origin

Turkey

Quantity

3000

Options

Black

Fabric composition

72% Cotton, 18% Polyester, 10% Elastane

Size range

UK 6-16

Size ratio

6:1, 8:2, 10:2, 12:3, 14:2, 16:2

Cost price

£43

Selling price (Less VAT)

£106.60

Retail selling price

£128

Margin

60%

Lead time

10 weeks

Shipping

1 week

Event

Responsibility

Date

Order placed

Buyer/factory

20/11/2017

First fit approval

Garment tech

27/11/2017

Lab dip approval

Buyer

04/12/2017

Trim approval

Buyer

04/12/2017

Strike off approval

Buyer

N/A

Seal approval

Garment tech

11/12/2017

Bulk fabric approval

Buyer

18/12/2017

Raw materials in house

Factory

01/01/2018

Cut date

Factory

01/01/2018

Production sample

Factory

08/01/2018

Ex factory

Factory/Merch

15/01/2018

ETA

Factory/Merch

22/01/2018

Phasing

Factory/Merch

29/01/2018

Revised

Actual

Comments

No prints on garments

4 4

PAT H S Department

Trousers

Style number

T1607

Production discription

Silk pjyama pants

Line type

Trial

Country of orgin

China

Quantity

600 units

Options

Dusky Pink

Fabric

100% silk

Size range

UK 6-16

Size ratio

6:1, 8:3, 10:2, 12:2, 14:2, 16:2

Cost price

£36.96

Selling price (Less VAT)

£123.30

Retail selling price

£148

Margin

70%

Lead time

18 weeks

Shipping

4 weeks

Event

Responsibility

Date

Order placed

Buyer/factory

27/11/2017

First fit approval

Garment tech

04/12/2017

Lab dip approval

Buyer

18/12/2017

Trim approval

Buyer

18/12/2017

Strike off approval

Buyer

N/A

Seal approval

Garment tech

25/12/2017

Bulk fabric approval

Buyer

01/01/2018

Raw materials in house

Factory

08/01/2018

Cut date

Factory

28/01/2018

Production sample

Factory

05/02/2018

Ex factory

Factory/Merch

26/02/2018

ETA

Factory/Merch

26/03/2018

Phasing

Factory/Merch

02/04/2018

Revised

Actual

Comments

No prints on garments

4 5

Critical Paths

C R I T I C A L Department

Trousers

Style number

T1605

Production discription

Wide leg organic cotton cropped trousers

Line type

Fashion

Country of orgin

Portugal

Quantity

1000 units total

Options

Navy (600 units) Ivy blue (400 units) Orange (300 Units)

Fabric

100% organic cotton

Size range

UK 6-16

Size ratio

6:1, 8:3, 10:3, 12:2, 14:2, 16:2

Cost price

£31.99

Selling price (Less VAT)

£106.66

Retail selling price

£128

Margin

70%

Lead time

18 weeks

Shipping

1 week

Revsied

PAT H S

Event

Responsibility

Dates, Navy

Order placed

Buyer/factory

30/10/2017

First fit approval

Garment tech

13/11/2017

25/12/2017

Lab dip approval

Buyer

20/11/2017

01/01/2017

Trim approval

Buyer

20/11/2017

01/01/2017

Strike off approval

Buyer

N/A

01/01/2017

Seal approval

Garment tech

04/12/2017

15/01/2018

15/01/2017

Bulk fabric approval

Buyer

18/12/2017

29/01/2018

Raw materials in house

Factory

15/01/2018

26/02/2018

Cut date

Factory

22/01/2018

05/03/2018

Production sample

Factory

29/01/2018

12/03/2018

Ex factory

Factory/Merch

19/02/2018

02/04/2018

ETA

Factory/Merch

26/02/2018

09/04/2018

Phasing

Factory/Merch

05/03/2018

16/04/2018

Actual

Date, Ivy blue 11/12/2017

Revised

Actual

Dates, Orange Revised

Actual

Comments

11/12/2017

Strike off for Orange only

A longer production time due to extra difficulties handling organic cotton*

4 6

4 7

Consumer Outfit Builds

C U S TO M E R

O U T F IT

178

BU I L D S

179

185

184

180

181 186

187

183 182

188

The frilled off-the-shoulder top creates a immediate summer feel. The look is

A loose white blouse lays over the

brighten by the use of mustard shoes

taliored trousers to create a modern

and a baby pink bucket bag which

formal look. The oversized blue bag adds

compliment the grey suede.

a accent colour which compliments the coral in the binding.

4 8

4 9

Consumer Outfit Builds

196

195

190

189

198

197

191

192

193

200

199 194

A cropped black shirt hangs

The luxurious silk trousers

above the waistband of the

are matched with a crisp white

cropped trousers creating

blazer and a contrasting bold

a look perfect for summer

floral bag to create the perfect

lunch dates. Chunky slides

summer wedding look.

and sunglasses juxtapose the delicate gold jewellery creating the perfect balance.

5 0

5 1

5 2

5 3

References

REFERENCES

Picture References

PICTURE REFERENCES

Fashion Review, (2017). All Saints Fashion – Clothing, Accessories, Jewellery & Footwear. [online] London Fashion Review - British Fashion Designers, Labels and Brands. Available at: http://www.fashionreview.co.uk/all-saints-fashion/ [Accessed 7 Mar. 2017]. Linkedin.com. (2017). LinkedIn. [online] Available at: https://www.linkedin.com/companybeta/935956/ [Accessed 23 Jan. 2017]. Style Logue, (2017). All Saints – Brand Profile « Stylelogue. [online] Stylelogue.co.uk. Available at: http://www.stylelogue.co.uk/style/all-saints-brand-profile/ [Accessed 2 Feb. 2017]. The Dots, (2017). AllSaints Jobs and Projects. [online] The Dots. Available at: https://the-dots.

php#%7B%22start%22%3A%2048%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2048%2C%20

Fig 2: http://yinkajermaine.com/premium-brands/

Whistles

%22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B%22classif_name%7C20963%22%2C%20

Brand Introduction

Fig 61: http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/Whistles-neighbourhood-Liverpool.html

Fig 3,4,5,7,8,9,10: http://allsaints.tumblr.com Fig 47: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/watch-an-exclusive-clip-of-allsaints-def-in-venice Handwriting Fig 6: http://creativity103.com/collections/Decay/slides/flaked_paint_surface.html Fig 11: http://allsaints.tumblr.com/post/61395416898/spring-2014-london-fashion-weekv Fig 12: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/336995984600044765/ Fig 13: https://watchmewalkthewalk.wordpress.com/tag/all-saints/ Fig 15: http://fashionintern.myblog.arts.ac.uk/files/2016/02/image-1-e1455527992489.jpeg Fig 16: https://70two.wordpress.com/2010/10/17/shop-report-reiss-vs-all-saints/

com/pages/allsaints-71811 [Accessed 2 Feb. 2017].

Fig 17: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/301952350001275075/

E T H I C S A N D S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y

Fig 19: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/497718196297749951/

Casey, C. (2016) Sustainable Yarn. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/ content/board_viewer/#/65869/page/1 [Accessed 1 March 2017]. Palmer, H. and Casey, C. (2017) Women’s Knit & Jersey Forecast A/W 18/19: Worldhood.

Fig 18: https://uk.pinterest.com/explore/all-saints-shop/ Fig 20: http://www.fashionwindows.net/2010/05/allsaints-spitalfields-opens-soho-outpost/ Fig 22: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/333125703658647798/ Fig 23: http://allsaints.tumblr.com/post/52532763225/earlham-street-concept-store

Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/70120/page/12 [Accessed 1 March 2017].

Fig 101,102,110: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search.

Fig 49,50,51,52,53,54,55,56,57: http://www.cosstores.com/gb/Women/Trousers

Front cover:

Fig 1: http://www.ipaustralia.com.au/applicant/all-saints-retail-limited/trademarks/1240837/

B R A N D I N T RO D U C T I O N

Fig 48: http://theimpression.com/cos-store-scout-westfield-world-trade-center-mall/

Fig 60: http://logos-download.com/6239-whistles-logo-download.html Fig 62,63, 64: http://www.whistles.com/inspiration/winter-edit-201617.html

Fig 25: http://allsaints.tumblr.com Fig 26: http://allsaints.tumblr.com/post/46411554594/the-biker-project-series-1 Muses Fig 27: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23329/1/sister-act-meet-allsaints-leatherlovers

Like for Like

content/board_viewer/#/68685/page/3

Allsaints Fig 70,71 80,81 89,90 : https://www.allsaints.com/women/trousers-and-leggings/style,any/colour,any/size,any/ Whistles Fig 73,75,77 82,83,85: http://www.whistles.com/women/clothing/trousers/ Jigsaw Fig 77,78,79: http://www.jigsaw-online.com/category/womens/clothing_trousers Fig 84: https://www.shopcade.com/brands/jigsaw Cos Fig 86,87,88 Karen Millen Fig 94,95,96: http://www.karenmillen.com/gb/womens/clothing/trousers-and-jumpsuits/ Fig 97: https://gunwharf-quays.com/articles/new-winter-fashion-now-karen-millen-12095

Fig 104,108,109,114,117: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_

Previous Collections

Fig 112,113,115,116: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/66060/

Fig 105,106,107: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/66466/page/1 page/4 Trend Direction

Fig 35,36,37,38,39,40: http://www.nawo.com

Fig 98,137,114,145,146,147: https://www.wgsn.com/search/search.

Competition shop analysis

%22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3:A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20

Allsaints Fig 14,21,24,41,42,43,44,45,46,47: https://www.allsaints.com/women/trousers-and-leggings Best sellers Fig 74,75,75: https://www.allsaints.com/women/trousers-and-leggings Cos Fig 58: http//www.regentstreetonline.com/directory/cos

5 4

Fig 119,120,122,124, 126,127,130,131,133,134: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/ Fig 121: http://theimpression.com/vivienne-westwood-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/ Fig 123: http://theimpression.com/giambattista-valli-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/ Fig 125, 135: http://theimpression.com/stella-mccartney-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-towear/ Fig 128: http://theimpression.com/daizy-shely-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/ Fig 129: http://theimpression.com/isabel-marant-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/ Fig 132: http://theimpression.com/emporio-armani-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/ Fig 134: http://theimpression.com/agnes-b-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/ Fig 135: Streetstyle Fig 136,137,138: http://theimpression.com/paris-couture-fashion-week-street-style-day-2spring-2017/ Fig 139: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/70165/page/11 Fig 140: http://theimpression.com/paris-couture-fashion-week-street-style-day-1-spring-2017/ Fig 141: http://theimpression.com/paris-couture-fashion-week-street-style-day-4-spring-2017/ Fig 142: http://theimpression.com/paris-couture-fashion-week-street-style-day-3-spring-2017/

Trend viewer/#/65701/page/1

Fig 32,33,43: https://www.allsaints.com/lookbook/women/2016/april

Catwalk analysis Fig 118: http://theimpression.com/versace-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

Fig 28: http://www.wonderlandmagazine.com/2016/09/allsaints-spring-2017/

Fig 29,30,31: http://fashion-tidbits.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/all-saints-ss13.html

%22category%7C18815%22%2C%20%22season%7C800201%22%5D%7D

Fig 65,66,67,68,69: http://www.whistles.com/women/clothing/trousers/

91,92,93: http://www.cosstores.com/gb/Women/Trousers Iconic Garments

%22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20

php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20 %22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B%22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20 %22market%7C49153%22%2C%20%22season%7C800201%22%2C%20 %22category%7C18815%22%5D%7D Fig 99: https://patternity.org/archive/ Fig 100: http://fashioneditorials.com/2017/01/12/harpers-bazaar-february-2017-mayowanicholas-by-camilla-akrans/

Celebrity Fig 172: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/1fqHSS4m588w3bTrc6TXRFf/bbcintroducing-at-roundhouse-rising-2015 Fig 173: http://lucidonline.co.uk/folly-rae/ Fig 174: http://www.thrds.co.uk/featured/folly-rae/ Fig 175,176: http://kashmirwickham.co.uk/3267186-image-consulting Fig 177: http://www.total-talent.com/uk/talent/profile/olga-botsi Key shapes https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search.php?startOver=%2Fsearch%2Fdesign_ library#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20 %22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20 %22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B%22classif_name%7C43042%22%2C%20 %22category%7C18815%22%5D%7D

5 5

Picture References

Picture References Fabrics and Textures

Details

Fig 201,210: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/68513/page/8

Fig 154: http://theimpression.com/tibi-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

Fig 202: http://theimpression.com/joseph-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

Fig 155: http://theimpression.com/lucio-vanotti-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

Fig 203: http://theimpression.com/sonia-rykiel-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

Fig 156: http://theimpression.com/krizia-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear-backstage/

Fig 204,207: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search.

Fig 157: http://theimpression.com/alexander-wang-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20

Fig 158: http://theimpression.com/jason-wu-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

%22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20

Fig 159,160: http://theimpression.com/christopher-kane-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-

%22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B%22classif_name%7C42383%22%2C%20

wear/

%22keywords%7C89054%22%5D%7D

Fig 161: http://theimpression.com/isabel-marant-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

Fig 205,206: http://theimpression.com/haider-ackermann-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-

Fig 162: http://theimpression.com/marni-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

wear/ Fig 208: http://theimpression.com/diesel-black-gold-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear-

Details continued

details/

Fig 163,164,165: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search.

Fig 209: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/image_viewer/#/image.25689661/

php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20

position/7/set/%7B%22f_limit%22:%205,%20%22q%22:%20%22suede%22,%20

%22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20

%22facets%5B%5D%22:%20%5B%22season%7C800201%22,%20%22market%7C49153%22,%20

%22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B%22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20

%22category%7C18815%22%5D%7D

%22market%7C49153%22%2C%20%22season%7C800201%22%2C%20

Fig 211: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/68794/page/5

%22category%7C18815%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C7747%22%5D%7D

Fig 212: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search.

Fig 166: http://theimpression.com/tibi-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20%22f_

Fig 167: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/image_viewer/#/

limit%22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20

image.25669755/position/40/set/%7B%22f_limit%22:%205,%20%22q%22:%20

%5B%22classif_name%7C42383%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C395576%22%5D%7D

%22%22,%20%22facets%5B%5D%22:%20%5B%22classif_name%7C19097%22,%20

Fig 213: http://theimpression.com/gucci-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

%22market%7C49153%22,%20%22season%7C800201%22,%20%22category%7C18815%22,%20

Fig 214: https://shop.ccs.com/dgk-divison-t-shirt-black-acid-wash

%22keywords%7C375711%22%5D%7D

Fig 215: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search.

Fig 168: http://theimpression.com/hermes-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20

Fig 169: http://theimpression.com/chloe-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

%22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20%22q%22%3A%20

Fig 170: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/image_viewer/#/

%22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20%5B%22classif_name%7C19097%22%2C%20

image.25802269/position/78/set/%7B%22f_limit%22:%205,%20%22q%22:%20

%22market%7C49153%22%2C%20%22season%7C800201%22%2C%20

%22%22,%20%22facets%5B%5D%22:%20%5B%22classif_name%7C19097%22,%20

%22keywords%7C29823%22%5D%7D

%22market%7C49153%22,%20%22season%7C800201%22,%20

Fig 216: http://theimpression.com/celine-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

%22category%7C18815%22%5D%7D

Fig 217: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/67580/page/4

Fig 171: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/image_viewer/#/

Fig 218: http://theimpression.com/loewe-fashion-show-spring-2017-ready-to-wear/

image.25764936/position/89/set/%7B%22f_limit%22:%205,%20%22q%22:%20 %22%22,%20%22facets%5B%5D%22:%20%5B%22classif_name%7C19097%22,%20 %22market%7C49153%22,%20%22season%7C800201%22,%20%22category%7C18815%22,%20 %22keywords%7C110626%22%5D%7D

Fig 193: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search. php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20

Ethics and Sustainability

%22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20

Fig 148,149: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/65869/page/4

%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20

Fig 150: https://www.offsetwarehouse.com/resources/types-of-eco-fabric/bamboo.html

%5B%22classif_name%7C20963%22%2C%20%22market%7C49153%22%2C%20

Fig 151: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/162200024053167547/

%22category%7C28490%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C147719%22%5D%7D

Fig 152: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/content/board_viewer/#/70120/page/6

Fig 194: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search.

Fig 153: http://www.hatjunkies.com/?p=3236

php#%7B%22start%22%3A%200%2C%20%22limit%22%3A%2050%2C%20 %22logSearch%22%3A%20true%2C%20%22f_limit%22%3A%205%2C%20

Consumer Outfit Builds:

%22q%22%3A%20%22%22%2C%20%22facets%5B%5D%22%3A%20

Fig 178,179: http://www.matchesfashion.com/products/Carl-Kapp-Round-neck-cotton-sateen-

%5B%22classif_name%7C20963%22%2C%20%22market%7C49153%22%2C%20

blouse--1076877

%22category%7C30544%22%2C%20%22keywords%7C489%22%2C%20

Fig 180: https://www.lyst.com/shop/alexander-mcqueen-shoulder-bags/

%22colors%7C12238%22%5D%7D

Fig 181: https://www.lyst.com/jewelry/givenchy-chunky-chain-bracelet-metallic-1/ Fig 182,183: https://lidiashopping.it/page/sandals-en-824/sort-rating/idProduct-171198/givenchychain-loafers/#!171198

Fig 196: https://www.aliexpress.com/

Fig 184,185: http://www.whistles.com/women/clothing/knitwear/frill-detail-bardot-knit-24596.

wholesale?ltype=wholesale&d=y&origin=y&isViewCP=y&catId=0&initiative_

html?dwvar_frill-detail-bardot-knit-24596_color=Black#start=1

id=&SearchText=Strappy+Cami+Top&aff_

Fig 186: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/638033472178939484/visual-

platform=aaf&cpt=1488835071616&sk=ey76EUj&aff_trace_key=03a20ae365e44b40ba3a2

search/?x=84&y=84&w=394&h=535

bd9005169a1-1488835071616-05249-ey76EUj&blanktest=0&tc=af

Fig 187: https://www-wgsn-com.ezproxy.bcu.ac.uk/search/search.php#%7B%22start%22%3A%20

Fig 197: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/556827941411073452/

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