TRAVEL
Find fine Rhine wine perfect for summer time In the ancient Celtic language, the word “Rhine” means current. Like a Celtic tapestry, the Rhine River’s current threads through a patchwork of corduroy vineyards and calico fields in six photos and story European countries. Along the banks of the by Alice Verberne Rhine, whether in Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, France, Germany or Holland, you’ll find fine villages like the German town of Bacharach.This elegant jewel woven into the fabric of history is made up of charming half-timbered houses and remnants of the Celtic tribes who inhabited the area in 750 B.C.
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CROWN OF THE TOWN If the streets of Bacharach could tell tales of the past, what would we eavesdrop upon? Probably whispers from venerable settlers and medieval knights debating the business of the day. Looming above them all is a castle positioned majestically at the Stahleck summit of the village. If it could speak, what secrets would resonate Castle was from its walls? One can only imagbuilt in the ine the stories left untold in 12th century and Stahleck Castle, which has existwas the home of ed since 1135.The fortress was many a count and originally the palace of the Palatinate Princes of the prince. However, Rhineland.We do know that since 1925 the only many a prince went off to fight inhabitants of the cas- in the Holyland during the tle have been of the time of the Crusades. And backpacking sort — many a romance did happen. it’s now a youth hos- Records show that a famed royal marriage took place in he tel where worldly castle around 1215 between an wanderers bustle heiress named Agnes and a royal through during named Ludwig I.This family ruled the summer as the “Count Palatine of the Rhine,” and you can imagine the months. sumptuous parties that ensued. But since 1925 the only parties that have made it to the castle have been of the backpacking sort — it’s now a youth hostel where worldly wanderers bustle through during the busy summer months. OF POETS AND PLACES One of the most famous of the village’s worldly wanderers was 18th Century French politician and poet Victor Hugo. He is best known his powerful novel, “The Hunchback of Notre Dame,” in which he pleaded the cause of the oppressed and outcast. Hugo found inspiration in Bacharach and called it, “one of the prettiest cities of the world.” Walk in the footsteps of Hugo and have a hike down the hill. As you retrace his steps along the steeply Left: One of the many gates that once protected the city from invaders. Right: Restaurants along the Rhine River offer traditional German cuisine and wine tastings. 30
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planted vineyards of Stahleck Castle, and you will discover exactly what he meant. TASTE THE NECTAR OF THE GODS According to the Bacharach tourist board (www.bacharach.de), the town acquired its title from the Greek god Bacchus and is known for its wine. Evidence of the connection encircles the hamlet in the form of 600 hectares of vineyards, planted along the steep hillsides with a view of Rhine.Wine experts will tell you that the best vintages are produced by grapes that are grown on steep slopes with a view of the water. Deductive reasoning would tell us that Bacharach’s attempt at fermented grape juice should be worth a try.The community celebrates its famous name with a fest; the wine-grower’s culinary summer night, which will be held Aug. 20-22. Entrance is free and adequate stock of liquid libation will be available to sample as well as gourmet food and music. However, you do not have to wait until the fest to try local grapes.You can start with a taste of Germany’s famous Riesling by participating in a Weinprobe.
The half-timbered houses of Bacharach date back to the middle ages. 32
Above: Stahleck castle, perched at the top of the village. Below and left: Rhine river trout is served fresh daily at many of Bacharach’s fine restaurants. Prices vary, but compared to more heavily touristed areas along the Rhine, such as Rüdesheim, Bacharach is a steal. Hotel fares are also much lower.
THE RULES OF GOOD TASTE Once you enter the village, look for signs with the word Weinprobe. It indicates that you can taste before you buy. The shops or restaurants that offer these wine tastings are usually operated by the local wine dealer.The basic idea is to taste the wine for either a set price or in exchange for 33
Stahleck castle was once owned by the famed Wittelsbach dynasty who ruled the surrounding area for six centuries.“
The community celebrates its famous name with a fest — the wine-grower’s culinary summer purchasing at least one bottle. Some Americans may initially feel out of night, which will be place asking for a tasting (depending on held Aug. 20-22. their grasp of German).The best way Entrance is free and to do it is to enter a shop with the an adequate stock of Weinprobe sign out front and give the liquid libation will be proprietor a big smile. Ask if he or she available to sample is offering a tasting at that hour and if it costs to try the wines. In some cases the along with gourproprietor will say that the tasting is free met food and or kostenlos. But keep in mind that these music. establishments are small businesses and that you should have the intention of purchasing something if you taste several vintages. If the Weinprobe has a set price, the proprietor will be satisfied that he is not losing money and you can partake of the wares guilt-free. The vintner will usually set up the styles of wine so that you try the sweetest wines first and go onto the drier wines. Be expected to end the tasting with the vintages containing the most alcohol. The wines in Bacharach are predominately white and low in alcohol. Reds are light and fruity and are typically made from the Pinot Noir grape (called a Spätburgunder in German).The style of the wine can be loosely compared to inexpensive Burgundy table wine from France. PEDAL PAST PALACES Active types who want to combine their promenade with an alternate excursion can rent bicycles at the local train station as well as from certain hotels (check with the Bacharach tourist board for more information).You can tool up and down the river by bike, exploring the Rheinfels ruins just above St. Goar, the castle of Schönburg just below Oberwesel, and the Ruins of Fürstenberg just next to Bacharach.The towns of St. Goar, Oberweisel and Kaub (and Bacharach, of course) are considered the best in the area. If you have more time, stop off at Reichenstein and Rheinstein castles.They stand next to each Once other guarding the river just below Bacharach.
you enter the village, look for signs with the word Weinprobe, which indicates that you can taste the wine before you buy.
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TOUR THROUGH TOWERS With a little planning you can even put your bike on the local ferry and catch the train on the other side of the river to see the towers of Burg Maus and Burg Katz. If you would like to see the Rhine through the eyes of a sailor from the middle ages, go for a boat ride.The Köln (Cologne) Düsseldorfer shipping company, commonly shortened to the KD line, can be taken down this stretch of the river.You’ll feel like a medieval sea merchant trying to brave the treachery of the robber barons and rulers of the time. Once you enter into the heart of the country, take time to listen to the spirit of the hamlets.They seem to be whispering the mystery of the Rhineland’s past on every corner. Immerse yourself in the village of Bacharach and charm yourself with its sentiment. As you partake of the shopkeepers’ wares, notice that they are like a generous family:They offer more than just souvenirs.They give us an entry into the way of ancient German architecture, history, food and tradition.
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