February 2004 Vol. 13 Issue 2 Your free guide to MWR services, sports, entertainment and travel in Europe. Now online at www.ArmyGermany.com
Celebrating Black History • Building on Brown vs. Board of Education • Free African show tours Europe
Expanding to serve you See the new Belgium and Italy pages
Let’s get loud Do-it-yourself stereo upgrades
All roads lead to Rome A refreshing 4-day getaway
po rt W Se p ab in e pa la le a ge y 34 e D fo r! V D r d et ai ls.
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Rome-antic Rome Paid advertisement
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ant to warm up your winter and heat up your romance at the same time? Romantic Rome is a hot destination for by Alice Verberne Valentine’s Day.Why? Well, for starters the average temperature in winter is 55°F. And the gorgeous sunshine makes your experience all that more delightful if you have the winter blues. 34
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The Vatican is located on the site where St. Peter was martyred and buried. It is now the residence of the Pope and is considered by many Catholics as the symbol of religious power. It is also a sovereign state with about 1000 inhabitants.
The warm southern temperatures are not the only warmth you’ll feel while visiting Rome. If you’re experience is like mine, you’ll receive a warm welcome from the locals, as well. If you stammer while trying to use an Italian phrase more than likely whoever is serving you will switch to English.The Italians have an ease with American tourists that I found immensely refreshing.They are not only willing but also very capable at assisting a travellers needs, such as trying to find your hotel. Rooms in Rome are pricey compared to other European capitals. One of the more kind-to-your-wallet hotels are near the Termini (Main Train Station). Although it’s not very close to the major sites, the Termini is the hub for Rome’s bus system. You can get about anywhere you like by bus until midnight. After that you need to take a taxi. Getting around A fun alternative to public transportation and the sneaker express is renting a moped. For about $50 a day and five bucks worth of gas, you can hug your honey tight as you whirl by all of the lovely Roman ruins.The other …the advantage of a moped is that Rome is off-limits Pope to automobile traffic on himself was the weekend. If you get caught, there are not among stiff fines that them, but it tourists usually have to pay on the spot. was A moped can be fascinating to parked just about chat with church anywhere, as well. There’s a moped VIPs over pasta rental shop at the and bruschetta. Termini. Where to eat Such is the Rome has so much to offer, it’s hard for charm of the first-time visitor to Trastevere. narrow down just where to stay and what to see for a Romantic weekend, so let’s start with your stomach. Avoid any restaurant with a guy out front hustling for customers. Always read the price list before ordering, as it’s not usual for tourist traps to charge $6 for a Coke. Also note the price of the servizio (service charge). It may vary by the size of the “I’m a tourist” sticker on your forehead. I experienced some true Italian treats in the area known as Trastevere. It’s the best choice if you want to be on top of the trendy dining and jazz club scene while at the same time rubbing elbows with the locals.This area is considered the Medieval quarter of Rome and is located on the same side of the Tiber river as the Vatican. Although Trastevere is quite authentic,
it, like much of Rome is these days, is marred by graffiti. Nonetheless, this old and rustic area is well worth visiting especially because it has the added advantage of being close to Testaccio (a popular late-night club area which will get to in just a minute). Staying here will give you a glimpse of everyday Roman life. For instance, I had lunch at a local restaurant called Osteria dei Belli, which serves home-style Sardinian cuisine on long communal tables covered in checkered cloths. I sat down with a group of 30 people speaking English, French, German and Italian.They treated me like an old friend as I responded the best I could to each diner’s native tongue. I soon discovered that the group consisted of high-ranking religious leaders from around the world. Unfortunately, the Pope himself was not among them, but it was fascinating to chat with church VIPs over pasta and bruschetta. Such is the charm of Trastevere. Night life When you’re ready to start your evening, head to Enoteca Trastevere (Via d’Lungaretta 86) for a light aperitif.They have an impressive wine list and outdoor seating in the winter.They are open from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m. If you are into “big reds” don’t miss the Brunello. It’s expensive, but Walk a better deal to buy it by up the the glass instead of by the bottle (which can broad flight start at about $45). of steps, at the Just around the corner is some of top you will find the best jazz in a square with a Rome complete with an authentic huge bronze hole-in-the-wall statue of Marcus atmosphere. Check out Stardust on Aurelius.THAT, Vicolo de Renzi, is the guy from which features a good mix of jazz, intellectuthe movie als and artists. Ask for Gladiator. the friendly blonde American named Leiah. She will hook you up on the music and dancing scene. She suggested picking up free newspapers like “La City” or “Urban.” We found both publications in stands in front of most jazz clubs. Leiah also said they are distributed in the metro and the trendier areas for young people around the Trastevere,Testaccio and Campo di Fiori. She had us flip to the back to find addresses of hot restaurants, bars and clubs.The thumbs-up rating system was so easy to follow, I just grabbed a taxi and asked how much it was to get to my choice establishment. I took off for Mount Testaccio for a night of romantic dancing. Located on the southern edge of Rome next to car repair shops and warehouses, it’s the perfect clubbing scene because there’s no one to wake up — hey, everybody, LET’S GET
On V. Le Angelico stands a sculpture of the Virgin Mary that gazes down Via Ottaviano V. Barletta toward the Vatican which is visible in the distance.
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LOUD! The music ranged from House to Retro ’80s and there were all ages grooving to the music. Rome is so ancient, you can not escape a history lesson even in a dance club. Mount Testaccio was once the location of an ancient port. Goods were shipped in clay urns called “amphorae.” These urns were “no deposit, no return” delivery items, so the Romans just Rome dumped them into a big pile (which ended up becoming is so a mountain of pottery ancient, you shards known today as can not escape Mount Testaccio).The neat part is that the a history mountain has been dug into to create cellars, lesson even which is where the clubs in a dance are located.You can see the scraps of pottery shards on club display in the clubs’ “caves” when you go dancing because they are still stuck in the walls. In warm weather the area takes on the semblance of a huge block party with people tapping their toes to the beats.This area is so trendy that the names of the clubs can change in a matter of months. No worries, the Above: Men feed gulls near the Tiber river in Trastevere with Isola Tiberina and Ponte Cestio (bridge) in the background. Left: A sculpture of Neptune graces the famous Trevi Fountain which has been the star of many films set in Rome, including the 1960’s era “la Dolce Vita” (the Sweet Life) by Frederico Fellini, in which Anita Ekberg bathed in the fountain. Don’t try it yourself, swimming in the fountain is strictly forbidden these days. 32
addresses don’t change.You can ask your taxi drivbrowsing is around the Via dei Coronari, two er to take you to Mount Testaccio and then blocks north of Piazza Navona. It’s famous for CHECK you can peruse the front doors. antiques and junk shops with a sprinkling of OUT THE We tried an establishment called Picasso arty retail stores and cafés. Remember the located at number 63 and also Dal moment by picking up a photo album or CLUB CULTURE Testaccion alla Giamaica 46.The music scrapbook.The best place on the planet SUBCULTURE: and crowd was worth the 10 euro for such an item is near the Pantheon, cover charge, especially since it includThis area is so trendy where you can see the sights and the ed a ticket good for one free drink.You neat bookstore next door. If you are that the names of the facing the Pantheon, the book store is can dance until about 3 a.m. before you’ll have to pile yourself in a taxi. on the right.They sell the most amazclubs can change in a (Two people pay 10 euros each way ing handmade leather books bound matter of months. from Trastevere to Testaccio). with museum quality paper.The store I suggest you go out dancing Friday has a dedicated following — me includBut do not distress, night so that you can sleep late Saturday, ed. the address will and relax with a nice afternoon walk. When you are finished with the café Romantic walks culture and are ready to immerse yourself still be the Locals get together for a stroll around in art and history, walk over to the area same. dusk as part of a tradition known as ‘passeggiaknown as the Roman Forum.You can get a ta.” One passeggiata that combines walking with guide book that will tell you all about the history
Restaurant suggestions Osteria der Belli, where the congress for religious leaders had lunch is located near the Piazza Sant Apollonia (number 11 off Lungaretta near the Piazza St Maria Trastevere). I was drawn there because the locals recommended the fresh seafood.Try the fresh trout, or the homemade ravioli.You will not be disappointed. Also worth noting was the Sardinian BRUSCHETTA and the fried cheese.The three-course meal cost about $25 per person and included a glass of Sardinian wine, appetizer or salad, main dish, dessert and digestive. I also suggest you try the dining establishments on the street known as Vittorio del Cinque.The truffle ravioli was worth mentioning as well as the plate of grilled jumbo shrimp.
For ice cream you have to try one of the many locations of “Blue Ice” gelateria. Check www.blueicecream.it for a listing of locations.The one in Trestevere is at Piazza Maria in Trastevere 4/4A. My Italian friends insist it is the best ice cream you will ever find (and I have to agree).The chocolate ice cream was so thick it was like eating cake icing, but without all of the sugar. Think frozen chocolate truffles. I also highly recommend the wild forest berries (Frutti di Bosco). If you want to buy your loved one a box of chocolates, try Dolce idea (sweet idea) in Trestevere on S. Francesco a Ripa 27. they even have cayenne flavored chocolate. Or try their website at www.dolceidea.com. 33
A group rows under Ponte Sant’ Angelo bridge which crosses the Tiber river connecting Castel Sant’ Angelo with Via del BiancoS. Spirito.
of Rome at the library, so I will leave that speech for where students try to pick out Plato, Aristotle and all someone else to cover. those guys with great ideas from ancient Greece. In But, if you look at just one thing while you’re Don’t wear yourself out walking, because you warm there, go to the Capitoline museum. It is located at will need your energy for some Sunday shopthe citadel of Ancient Rome (which is right ping. On Sunday from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. the weather the behind the monument to Victor Emanuel).This is Porta Portese flea market sets up along the area takes on where you will find the Michelangelo steps. Via Portuense on the western bank of the Walk up the broad flight of steps, at the top river just south of Trastevere.This carthe semblance Tiber you will find a square with a huge bronze statnival-style market blends cultures from of a huge block Eastern Europe and Africa. Hippies sell ue of Marcus Aurelius, he’s the guy from the movie “Gladiator.” The statue is a copy. If you homemade beads and Guatemalan imports party with peo- while want to see the real deal, you’ll need to pay Italian shopkeepers come out to sell ple tapping eight dollars to enter the museum. It’s worth it their stores’ surplus. It takes a few hours to though because the restaurant at the top of the cover the entire flea market, so get there their toes to early. museum has one of the best views of the Vatican the beats. in all of Rome and the Roman copies of Greek What could be more fun for a couple than a sculpture are just fascinating. weekend of dining, dancing and “Rome-ancing.” My favorite room is the hall of the philosophers,
Travelers tips Rome is getting cheaper.With special from Hahn airport starting at around ten bucks, I decided to give it a shot as an inexpensive weekend. If you live in Baumholder, you have it made because you are really close to the airport. Other military communities close enough to make it worth their while are Darmstadt, Mannheim, Mainz,Wiesbaden, Giessen and Hanau. Ryan Air flies to the Rome’s Ciampino airport. At press time tickets were going for about 10 Euro, which ended up costing me about $50 for a round-trip ticket. Not bad considering comparable train tickets were around $300 and driving would have take long and the gas would have been more than the price of the flight. Ryan Air has a bus system that takes you straight to the central train station for about $13. Look for the signs that point you to Terravision bus service.The bus will get you to the main train station in about 30 minutes.
To get to Trastevere from the Termini bus station, take bus H (which is direct to the neighborhood) or take tram 8 to the end of the line (Argentino) then switch to any bus in the direction of Termini station. Remember, you can also rent a moped at Termini station. I highly recommend renting it for the weekend if you want to save on taxis. Hotel Trastevere is located at Via Luciano Manara, 24a/25, 00153 Rome.Telephone +39-065814713. Prices range from 77 euro for a single to 154 for four people. A typical double room goes for 103 Euro per night and includes breakfast. Scooters can be rented for about 30-60 dollars per day depending on the model at Trenoe Scoter located in front of Termini Station. Bicycles can be rented from $3 to $12 depending on how many hours you want to use the bike.The service is available every day. For more information log onto ibikeitaly@libero.it.