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Excellent beaches, powerful waves and mild climate make the Bay of Biscay the surfing center of Europe. photo courtesy Pays Basque Tourist Center
et out your long board and join the wave of beach bums headed to southwest France for the Biarritz Surf Festival this July.The coastal cities of the Bay of by Alice Verberne Biscay have a fantastic clubbing scene, plus music and film events all summer long.
cial competition.Winners will have a chance to make the cut and get into the World Champion Tour.This is the first year the town of Biarritz has hosted such a high profile event.The competition will appeal to purists because it focuses on nostalgic surfing: long boarding.
Aloha, France The biggest event of the year is from July 10-18 when 150,000 spectators are expected to descend on Biarritz to watch the war of the waves. International surfers from as far as Australia will compete.The usual Hawaiians and Californians will be there too, surfing along side Italians and the Dutch (and even competitors from landlocked countries like Switzerland and Germany).
One event worthy of hanging out for, man Although Europe isn’t the end-all location for surfing, the pros don’t seem worried.The smaller waves and conditions can’t compare with Hawaii or Australia but the Surf Fest manages to stay successful because of its solid organization and jet-set atmosphere. After a long day of hitting the waves, the enthusiastic participants will finish out the last free surfing sessions.The wind will die down and the tide will go out but the surfer spirit will continue long into the sun-lit summer evenings.
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Surf-ari vacation This is your chance to watch world-famous surfer-dudes deliver some serious stroke as they compete for the official world qualifying series.The fest starts off with everyone testing the waters to get a feel for the vibes of the waves.The European competition circuit will be at the fest this year and the Association of Surfing Professionals will hold a spe-
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Don’t be shy, mix with the best In addition to the long board competition, the week will be filled with demonstrations of tandem and kid surf-
ing along with Tahitian pirogue racing.You too, can get in on the action. Pros will be on hand during the week to assist those who want to try out their long boarding and bodysurfing skills. So, here’s your chance to be straight sucked into a nice hollow curl. Funky style along the “St.Tropez of the Atlantic Coast” Beach-goers will be clubbing on the sand. Partiers will be entertained with films and music while DJ's spin “phat” beats.There will be lots of action to photograph, such as the art competition. A graffiti board will be installed on the beach so that artists can demonstrate their creative work. Once their creation is completed the board will be admired, white washed and the next artist will have a chance to out-do the first. Hang-ten, dude If you want to get the best seat in the house to watch all the action, reserve a table at the café in front of the Biarritz casino and order a glass of Basque cider. Here you can watch “the tanned ones” sporting “bed-head” hairdos as they tote their long boards
to the beach.They’re trotting off to worship their god, the omnipresent western swell that rises and crashes along this part of the Atlantic Coast. As one surfer put it “the free surfing is fantastic and it is seldom that I get a chance to ride with such famous dudes. A few years ago I was in the water with (world champion) Beau Young who scores with his 'down to earth-ness'.We had nice two- to threefoot waves, not too hollow, SWELL.” Cradle of surfing civilization in Europe What makes this area so special? If you look at a wave map, it shows how the tide enters the Atlantic coast of Europe — the Côte des Basques is a direct hit.The tide comes in at just the right angle for surfers to catch a smooth ride.They run their course along the French coast from above Biarritz and head south toward the town of St. Jean de Luz. Hollywood beach boys made it famous In 1957, California movie producer, Peter Viertel, came to the
photo by Alice Verberne
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photo by Olivier Houillon
photo courtesy St. Jean de Luz Tourist Center
Bay of Biscay to shoot the film "The Sun Also Rises.” Viertel was an avid surfer and set the scene for riding waves in the Bay. Although he brought glamour to the sport, the French initially viewed it as the domain of tourists. But the phenomenon caught on with locals who shared similar ideals concerning preservation of the sea. In 1959, the first surfing club opened in Biarritz, since then, the town has established itself as the surfing Mecca of Europe.
has an excellent restaurant. Eugenie invited her rich and famous friends. Lords of England, dukes of Spain, princes from Russia, kings of Belgium and rulers from Germany all paraded through the town hitting the beach and bathing in the sea. Naturally, they spent some money and the area was elevated to meet the demands of the aristocracy. Even though the rich have descended on the coast, the locals are unpretentious.
The forgotten coast When most people think of the French coast they think of the Mediterranean. But Biarritz and St. Jean de Luz are located on the Atlantic side, a sometimes forgotten coast on the West side of the country. Nonetheless, it is the choice of many visitors with discerning tastes. After the crowds subside and the Surf Fest goes out to sea, the rich and famous will still be coming to the beach to enjoy the sea, sun and fun.
Complementary contrasts Perhaps the mixture of glitz and grassroots is what makes the coastal Basque towns seem to have a double personality: one of worldly ambiance mixed with down-to-earth wholesomeness. Or could it be the contrast of mountains and sea that encourages this mix of cowboy and dandy? Either way, the Bay of Biscay has a variety of entertainment. In the summer there’s a steady line up of events ranging from art shows to sailboat regattas.Visitors will find medieval markets alongside luxury shopping. But, there is one local event everyone in the area seems to love, ‘Pelote’. It is a local form of handball commonly called Jaï Alaï in the United States. Each town has a handball court.The locals who bet on the sport are quite competitive. For a list of events and dates contact the tourist information office at www.saint-jean-de-luz.com.
How did it get that glitzy jet-set atmosphere? It all started in the mid-1800s when countess Eugenie de Montijo came to the area as a child.When she became Mrs. Napoleon III, her husband built her a summer residence in Biarritz.They called it La Villa Eugénie. It’s now used as an opulent 134-room hotel called the Hotel du Palais (or palace hotel) and
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Intellectuals like it too But the main attraction along the coast will always be the crashing waves.The seaside setting is a protagonist to creative thinkers. Artistic types still come here to be wooed by the ocean’s charm and long to become her lover. Famous artist and writer,Victor Hugo visited in 1843. He wrote texts about the lovely white villages with red roofs and green shutters.This must have pleased the inhabitants because the colors white, red and green represent the “Ikurrina” or Basque Flag. Sea breeze and mountain air The Basque people also display their pride through their regional cuisine.They are as self-respecting of their red peppers and sausages as they are their flag. Regional pride comes together where the Bay of Biscay and the Pyrnées mountains meet near St. Jean de Luz. Here the local cuisine and culture stirs together surf and turf along with a commanding view of the ocean and mountains. Let the noise of the waves cradle you among splendid panoramas as you over indulge on the fresh local cuisine. Ahoy mate Fish is a mainstay on the menu but the regional cuisine also includes a wide variety of farm produce. Locals have been fishing
photo courtesy Pays Basque Tourist Center
these waters since medieval times when spear fishermen hunted whale around St. Jean de Luz and Biarritz. Back then whaling was the main source of income, but fishermen abandoned the practice in the early 20th century.Today, the locals are keen on maintaining the environment and balance the need for industry with the focus on preservation. But, that doesn’t stop them from serving up exotic seafood and farm fresh specialties: some of which you may want to avoid. If your command of the ancient Basque language of Euskerra is a little rusty then you’ll want to know about the following gourmet surprises. Fearless eaters Those with an appetite for the unusual may want to try "pibales" (young eels) or "chipirones" (squid). Beware of the word "cojones", a delicacy of stuffed bulls testicles.The most sought after are the “cojones” from a bull that was actually killed in the arena during a bull-fighting contest.Wash it down with the local ‘Irouléguy’ wine. If you have time, take a drive to the vineyards set on the steep, sunny mountainside of the Baïgorry valley.These historical vineyards have been around since the 11th century. If you want try the local wine, look for the sign marked Bodgea that translates literally into wine cellar.
photo by Alice Verberne
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photo by Alice Verberne
Above:The fortress that guards the bay at St. Jean de Luz is fronted with a dock for small fishing boats and shallow water perfect for windsurfing. Below: Various beachfront architecture of St. Jean de Luz. Right: Fishermen’s nets left to dry at the port of St. Jean de Luz.
Similar to southwest cuisine (Southwest France, that is) Still exotic, but safer sounding might be the duck magret (duck breast), foie gras (goose liver) and Ardi Gasna (ewe's cheese served with black cherry jam). If you eat pork, try the Bayonne ham.The locals make a big deal out of the fact that it is cured for at least six months in accordance with ancient tradition, and it goes well with the local national drink, cider. Cider house rules To get a real Basque experience, visit a cider-house. Cider is called ‘Sagardoa’ in the Basque dialect and is THE venerated drink, made with pride. Pressed from non-treated regional apples, the juice is tart and high in acid (and absolutely yummy).The production methods have been handed down from family to family.The
first cider is ready to drink in January when barrels are tapped in a ritual called Txotx (pronounced tchotch).The drink jets out of the tap in a long, thin stream hitting the patron’s glass causing the liquid to mix with the air helping develop the flavor (and sometimes getting the customer wet and sticky in the process). For those with a sweet tooth, try the gâteau Basque, a dense confection thicker than a pound cake. And, don’t miss the exceptional confectionary shops in the region where you will find Basque chocolate and candy.Try the Basque candy kisses, a macaroon with marzipan called "muxus" (pronounced moo-show). So, go west, young traveler and bask on the beach in the Basque country. Remember: Excellent sand, powerful waves and the mild climate make Biarritz right-on for surfing, great for relaxing and yummy for the tummy, Dude.
Traveler’s tips Directions www.france.map-vista.com
Web camera www.saint-jean-de-luz.com
TRAIN 1.5 miles from the center of town with connections to train, visit www.sncf.fr
Flying Airport in Biarritz 1.5 miles from the center of town, visit www.biarritz.aeroport.fr Airport in San Sebastian 12 miles from Biarritz Phone: +33 (0) 34 943 66 85 00 Airlines servicing the area Air France: www.airfrance.fr Ryanair: www.ryanair.com
Taxis Available from outside terminal building.
Bus Coach service between airport and town center via Anglet Beach and Bayonne. Cost about a Euro one way. For information call: Biarritz Town Center: +33 (0) 5 59 52 59 52 Regional services: +33 (0) 5 59 55 17 59 St. Jean de Luz and Hendaye: +33 (0) 5 59 26 06 99
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photos by Alice Verberne
photo by Alice Verberne
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