BELLA MODA POWER ISSUE 2013
MILAN FASHION WEEK REVIEW MILAN
STREET STYLE
MUST HAVE FALL TRENDS
RENATA DABDOUB TALKS STYLE ROMANCE AND HER NEW COLLECTION
WHAT TO BUY NOW AND LATER
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BELLA MODA APRIL Editor’s Note...8
FASHION Fall Forward...13 Runway To Real Way...15 Runway Trends...17
ON THE COVER
BEAUTY Boldly Modern...19
FALL FORWARD ON THE STREET MARVELOUS MILAN MAKING HER MARK
FEATURES Best Of The Show...30 Queen Of Vunk...32 Around The World...37
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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR or more than a decade now we’ve dedicated our April issue to the theme of power ---- to the great and good who do equally great and good things in life. Of course, power is by definition something that can really be gauged only in the public domain; it needs to be visible and palpable to us all if we are to believe in its existence. It’s somewhat ironic, then, that one of the most powerful women in her respective fields whom we’re profiling this year -- Renata Dabdoub -- has achieved her considerable place in our culture amid an intense, and intensely guarded privacy. She is not exactly a stranger to worldwide awareness and approbation, yet cannot think of another major fashion designer-- who so readily retreats to her life behind closed doors. lva Jiang traveled to Italy to meet with Renata Dabdoub, whose brillant reinvention of Renata, Inc. in just a few short years has had pervasive and decisive impact on fashion and struck a deep rapport with women. But it’s more than Renata’s remarkable designs that is so influential; she herself has emerged as a leading exponent of a new paradigm in fashion where the job’s the thing, and courting fame for its own sake is not. When she says, “The chicest thing is when you don’t exist on Google. God, I would love to be that person,” she could be speaking for a whole generation who’d prefer to stand for their achievements, not for lives that are up for public consumption.
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I defy anyone not deeply moved by Dolce and Gabbana’s romantic, yet, very spiritual a/w collection. Domenico and Stefano have really upped the ante for Italian fashion. Our editor Brittany Stafford talks more on this deep rooted collection. Lastly, April would not be complete without an overview of the autumn/winter collections, which showcase the most persuasive and pervasive ideas of how we might want to dress. Contributing Editor Elise Kelner was responsible for depicting these concepts in “On The Street.”
Style On, Alicia Gonzalez
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Fall Forward
Straight from Milan Fashion Week, we are telling you what to buy now and what to wear later
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RUNWAY TO REAL WAY “How To Get The Look”
Milan Fashion Week has just wrapped for the season and we’ve been inspired by all the chic looks both on and off the runway. Neutral pieces in cream and tan were key, paired with textured knits and monochromatic prints. Stylish yet functional accessorising came in the form of androgynous hats and beanies matched with classic bags. We’ve put together two cute Milan Fashion Week-inspired looks that you can wear right now (everything is in store or online). We love light layering and cute accessories for channeling the chic Italian fashion
Beanie $25, Sunglasses $13, Denim Jacket $45, Intarsia Jumper, Miniskirt $69, Wedge Sneakers and Bowler Bag all by Glassons
Denim Vest $50, Tuxedo-Back Blouse $45, Striped Merino $65, Ponte Leggings $40, Fedora $20 , Sunglasses, Studded Flats and Bag all by Glassons
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TRENDS ON THE RUNWAY / DARK ACCESS SHOES: Flat and Men’s Wear Inspired
Marni
Jill Sander
Giorgio Armani
Erdem
Dolce and Gabanna
Erdem
BAGS: Dark leather and structural
Emilio Pucci
Bottega Veneta
ACCESORIES: Gold and Silver Chains
Bottega Veneta
Dolce and Gabanna
Versace
Bottega Veneta
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BELLA BEAUTY
BOLDLY MODERN
From bold lips and a subtle eye to dramatic hair trend, this season is all about a powerfully strong look.
By Renata Dabdoub
BELLA MODA BEAUTY
BOLD LIP
THE LOOK: Last seasons fucha lip has taken a bolder darker turn. The bold look went from deep reds to dark rich burgandy SEEN AT: Dolce and Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, Fendi, Marni DYI: prep by exfolicating lips and dabbing on the color and subsequently blotting and finsh off with some setting powder. ADD ON: a fresh narural face with little to no makeup
Dolce and Gabana
Botega Veneta
THE LOOK: the classic smokey eye has taken a softer more natural direction for fall. SEEN AT: Versace, Missoni, Jill Sander, Emilio Pucci DYI: Start with a matte face and focus on your lash line. line the eye ( upper and lower) and blend out. ADD ON: Contoured cheekbones strengthen the look
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Missoni
Marni
fresh face
Marni
Fendi
NATURAL SMOKE
Versace
try with
Jil Saunders
try with
Contour
Emilio Pussi
SLEEKED BACK
try with
THE LOOK: Tightly pulled back with a glossy finish. Very sleek and sophisticated SEEN AT: Gucci, Jill Sander, Missoni DYI: Layer generous amounts of gel in panels from the hairline to the nape of the neck and place an elastic before it drys ADD ON:keep it simpe with a sleek low Gucci ponytail for an everyday look.
EXTREME PART
try with
THE LOOK: a deep side part with the rest of the hair away from the face. SEEN AT: Erdem, Bottega Veneta, Versace DYI: Start with clean light and airy hair. Part hair and spray part in place. ADD ON: Add on the drama Versace with extreame texture.
WET LOOK
THE LOOK: Dramatically undone wet looking strands drapped along the face. SEEN AT: Prada, Marni, DYI: Apply copious amounts of mouse on strands and dishevel the hair to create this nonchalant style ADD ON: a deep side part to soften the look or even push straight back to make the look even more dramatic Prada
try with
low ponytail
Jill Sander
big texture
Bottega Veneta
side part
Marni
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MAKING HER MARK Renata Dabdoub talks style, romance and her new collection
By Alicia Gonzalez
I met with the fabulous Ms. Dabdoub in a quaint bistro just outside of the city. I had been anticipating our interview for sometime. I knew from the get go that she wasn’t one for fame and I was pleasantly surprised when she agreed to speak to me in such a public setting. I was too nervous to eat anything, so I sipped tea while I waited in anticipation for the lady of the hour. Besides knowing that Renata is the most profitable emerging designer in Italy, which is due mostly to her innovative designs, I really didn’t know anything about her. I learned early on in our interview that she wasn’t one for sharing her private life. She told me “The chicest thing is when you don’t exist on Google. God, I would love to be that person.” We all know Renata is far from this statement but it’s the point that matters here. After growing up in Mexico with her brother and two sisters, Renata learned fast how to be independent, which is very apparent in her designs. She says she wouldn’t change a thing about the way she grew up. I can tell how proud she is of her mother, who raised their family single handily.
As far as romance and love, I couldn’t get but a smidgen of a smile out of her before she let me know that subject was off limits. She said “Love is a beautiful thing and I don’t think it should be shared with the world. I have enough respect for my significant other to give him privacy and peace of mind.” Although, I can’t say I blame her, I was hoping to get a glimpse into her surreal life. What she would talk to me about is her take on style. She said ”Everyone has a style, whether they want to admit it or not, they do.” She went on to tell me that style doesn’t necessarily mean the clothing your wearing. “It’s the attitude you possess inside those clothes that matters,” she said. If there’s one thing for sure, this lady definitely has style and I want to adopt it. Her newest collection is filled with tight hugging silhouettes and beautifl embellished neck pieces. She took classic ideas and twisted them into the Renata Style. (at least that’s what I’m calling it.) As her collection graced the runways this past week, even Anna Wintour couldn’t help but turn her head as each model walked by. Although we’re calling her an emerging designer, it’s apparent that Renata has made her mark. The newest addition to the Italian fashion family is one to look out for. Her sleek and trendy designs are sure to move your eyes.
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BELLA FEATURE MILAN FASHION WEEK 28
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Dramatic, classic and very Italian. Milan Fashion Week was a beauty to behold
BELLA MODA FASHION
MARVELOUS MILAN By Lexi Coon From modern marvels to re-inventing already well-known design elements, reviving and referencing historic art of the greats, Milan Fashion Week was by far the most innovative and exciting fashion week of this season. Although collections in Milan had some of the same trend colors as NYFW and LFW, rich Navy Blue Ruby Reds, and lighter shades of green and beige yellow, were also added to the color palette. The silhouettes in Milan also were noticeably less androgynous and more feminine, and paired with sleek simple hair and makeup. Some of the lesser publicized collections with that are brilliant elements of re-invention were Moschino, Emporio Armani, and Luisa Beccaria. Luisa Beccaria’s collection was as if young Evita Perone has fused with the 1920’s old Hollywood Glamour. The complete re-invention of the 1920’s theme without the over-played Great Gatsby elements was extremely refreshing and I’m excited to see what smart stylist dresses an award winner in one of these gowns. Like Sophia Wester’s expert execution of a theme, Moschino’s collection was extremely well-edited from it’s inspiration from Japanese School Girls, Scottish Tartans, and Menswear. The collection showcases a new version of female menswear with immaculate body-contouring suit tailoring and the wellplaced print on the suiting adds back the feminine flavor. Emporio Armani’s collection also reinvents Menswear inspired casual wear, by reinventing Seer-Sucker fabric. By using an embellished flower overlays as an all over print, Armani has transformed the tired Seer Sucker fabric into an ultra sophisticated suiting perfect for a female. Milan Fashion Week was an overall crowd pleaser from evening gowns to casual wear, due to staying relevant with new textiles and addition of color, and largely from remembering the most important thing in Women’s fashion, the body.
BELLA MODA FASHION
BEST OF SHOW
Whether it be the rise from tragedy, a beutifully crafted italian collection, or a papal explorion these veterans show how it is done. By Britt Stafford
Dolce and Gabanna Bringing Italy’s heritage back to Italy, Dolce and Gabbana’s Fall 2013 collection was over the top extravagance. Domenico and Stefano’s desire of flair came in the form of exquisite Byzantine mosaic prints, religious fresco patterns, and stunning jewel adornments. Saints, kings, and angels appeared in mosaic style prints on dresses, tops, and skirts and surrounded by appliqued jewels. Tailored, chaste skirt suits, in check or herringbone tweed were the perfect foil to the gold looks–and provided more wearable options from the collection. And, as always with Dolce and Gabbana, there was of course lace: In red, black, and white, on the expertly tailored signature dresses. There were flowy A-line skirts, structured bell sleeves and stiff rounded shoulders. The finale covered the runway in cardinal red dresses, sparkling with jewels or frothy with lace, topped with old crowns, leaving a feel of romantic fantasy out on the runway. It was the perfect ending to a decadent, visual fit for a fashion queen.
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Missoni In the wake of her brother’s disappearance and in the middle of a blizzard, Angelina Missoni’s collection came through and stayed true to the Missoni aesthetic. This collection was all about comfort, yet still flattering- just what women want. Like past collections, we see the repetition of zigzags, broken stripes and dress silhouettes. The computer manipulation of their signature print gave a sleek overall feel. Missoni brought a new look to the brand with the asymmetrical fabric patterns and the mix of contrasting materials. Missoni Fall 2013 collection set an effortless sporty touch on the runway
Emporio Armani Armani brought the twenties back to the runway in his Fall 2013 collection. Between the cloche hats, delicate gestures to orientalism, and the drop waist silhouettes on the eveningwear, the roaring twenties were back. Apart from the frocks in pale peach and green, the collection was heavily inspired in menswear, with several suit looks. Pants and Bermuda length shorts were baggy and boxy and paired with oversized shirts and tailored blazers. The palette was mostly Easter pastels and neutrals, until the eveningwear which were done up in jewel tone velvet. Armani created exaggerated shapes on shorts, skirts, and leveled it out with architectural preciseness on top.
BELLA MODA FASHION
QUEEN OF VUNK From wanting to dress the Queen to her own intepretation of punk, Donatella sure does have a majestic style
By Elva Jiang
W
Glamour is always good, Ver-
hy would you like to dress sace says, but it’s particularly the queen? compelling in a first lady be-
“Queen can do whatever she wants,” Donatella Versace admiringly told a roomful of Oxford undergraduates on Wednesday, “but I would dress her in black.” The fashion designer, herself wearing a studded black leather Versace dress, praised Her Majesty while taking part in a question and answer session at Oxford University’s historic debating society. She also told the crowd, “She (the Queen) is rock and Versace believes that glamour belongs in the highest reaches of power. Recent Versace advertisements have depicted women in sexy suits ruling a boardroom or running a household. When Versace took over the creative duties at the fashion company, after her brother Gianni was killed in 1997, she made a concerted effort to keep the label’s sexy sensibility but to express it from a woman’s point of view rather than through the voyeuristic gaze of a man. Over the last decade, the Versace aesthetic has evolved into one that values restraint but celebrates everything that it means to be female, from showing off curves in an evening gown, to looking powerful and feminine in a suit, to being sexually confident in a revealing cocktail dress.
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cause it allows young girls to recognize that part of themselves in someone of great stature. It lets them say, “Look at her, she’s one of us!” They can see that their girlish delights can coexist with pomp, power and an impressive résumé.
For fall 2013, Donatella explores what punk means to her. Resulting in a fearlessly over the top collection aptly named “VUNK”
BELLA MODA FASHION
ON THE STREET
Whether it be the rise from tragedy, a beautifully crafted Italian collection, or a papal explorion these veterans show us how it’s done. By Elise Kelner
These warm-blooded Milan Fashion Week attendees are facing the February chill with bare-legged defiance; their only concession to the cold, a neat, tailored coat and a bright-hued beanie hat. Take inspiration from their multi-textured, layered-up looks: offering a masterclass in new season dressing – with unexpected details, flashes of shimmering embellishment and intricate patterns, all delivered via an eye-catching color palette, to cut through grey winter skies.
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AROUND THE WORLD
From mass market, to underground, to parisian chic. Here is a round up of the other 3 MAIN fashion weeks By Lexi Coon
BELLA MODA FASHION
NEW YORK
O
n February 6th, the NYFW collections began gracing our presence piece by piece, and after awhile the trend patterns became clearer and clearer. One of the major elements of NYFW, PETA be damned, was fur. Fur was utilized in the vast majority of collections as material for vests, bags, and to accent sleeves and cuffs on jackets. Another predominate material, this time at the chagrin of Vegan’s was leather. Black leather was seen across the board, but most memorably in 3.1 Phillip Lim, Altuzarra, and as an accent in Prabal Gurung’s military inspired collection. A more animal friendly popular material was velvet, utilized in many different ways from a burn-out style at DonnaKaran to it’s more polished and sleek form in J. Mendel and Tadashi Shoji. Granted, some of the designers did implement trends into their collections more masterfully than others. Seeing forms of the same parts of design vocabulary over and over however, started to make even beautifully constructed collections seem average. A few designers were courageous enough to break the mold. Marc Jacob’s collection broke the mold for its collection’s style and presentation. It broke away from the mono-colors and Eighties power dressing inspired silhouettes that saturated the runways, and brought a more colorful approach with a French New Wave Sixties and Seventies glamour to it. Cathy Horyn even said it was “For the first time in a while, a designer has successfully pushed the sex button in a compelling way, with the straight office suit.” Although I wonder what Cathy thought of the actual collection presentation that looked like fashion Stone Hendge, one thing is for certain, Marc was one of the few to make a collection that broke away from the boring mono-color, relaxed Menswear inspired unflattering suiting silhouettes, from the popular materials, and most of all the unexciting duck duck goose feel of the color palette, “Black, black, black, GRAY! ” For that, Mr. Jacobs, we thank you!
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LONDON
S
aying London Fashion Week had youthful undertones this season would be a complete understatement! The collections that came down the runway and were fiercely displayed in presentations showed the world the new re-emergence of the London Underground style. The majority of the collections played on a bubble-up street style feel, and avid fashion fans outside the venues even wore visually similar bright edgy pieces to what was actually shown. As a whole, London Fashion Week felt very innovative and was inspiring, even if some of the clothes weren’t exactly wearable or even “beautiful.” There were definitely a few strike outs at London Fashion Week. Parts of Tom Ford’s collection looked like discarded Sunday Comics, and Ashish’s “crossing guard chic”, but for the most part even if collections were a little bit eccentric, they were still well-craftedand interesting. Sophia Webster’s collection was shown in a presentation format on the set of a synthethic landscape, “inspired by a rainbow version of Narnia and Tim Burton.” It was a imaginative collection that commanded the audience’s attention with it’s punky fairytale vision perfectly translated. A more wearable version with the same amount of spunk was the new Tata Naka collection. The Tata Naka collection was also a highly publicized collection, with an updated Fifties “Greaser’s Girlfriend” look. The garments are as if the Fifties style and the Eightie’s colorblocking and geometric prints became best friends. Tata Naka’s Tamara and Natasha Surgudladze definitely created an interesting and funwearable Era fusion collection. I’m sure we will see the collection knocked off at Forever 21. The not so bubbly post-apocolyptic collection by Maarten Van Der Horst was actually a fun feeling collection. With hologram and futuristic looking fabrics, the use of bright lilac purple and titanium white, the collection reads as if the theme were a futuristic disco. This collection also is the epitome of London Fashion week, designers that tried to be fun and innovative, (sorry, Tom Ford and Ashish) ended up falling flat, and collections that tried the best to convery their concept were the most exciting and remarkable collections on the runway.
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PARIS
P
aris Fashion Week to non-fashion addicts may have been just any old fashion week. For us, the fashion addiction not-so-anonymous, we know that it was the exact opposite. Paris Fashion Week was full of surprises from usually predictable brands. From bubble up metal necklaces that spelled out phrases at Lanvin to the Courtney Love style grunge at YSL, Paris Fashion Week had many elements that not even the fashion glamourati could forecast, but surely enough, they are having more fun asserting their opinions through Op Ed and Fashion Columns about it anyway. Three trends that I didn’t expect to see in Paris Fashion Week were short Mary Quant style hem lines on dresses and skirts, the continuance of Cobalt blue, and especially the plaid trend. It only takes the disastruous Slemaine YSL collection this season to show how unfashionable plaid really is, and the heinously large Stella McCartney Old Man by The Sea plaid coat to seal the deal. Givenchy was also a travesty with Ronald McDonaldhairstyles and incredibly not chic streetwear couture fusions, of cotton pull over sweatshirtsand delicate lace skirts. As for what I hope does get adopted from PFW, I sincerely hope the detailing from the McQueen and the well-tailored garments from Hermes trickle down. They may not be the sexiest or edgiest pieces, but they definitely evoke the essence of Parisia Chic, unlike the majority of the NYFW look-a-likes.
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BELLA MODA FASHION
FROM US TO YOU
Here are our favorite beAuty and style items the you should not be without this fall season
LEXI
“The right amount of cover to cover up minor flaws and not have an overly-caked complexion. Easy to blend, and once set, it looks natural. Unlike most other cosmetics, this moisturizer matches my tone and is an extremely affordable price.” Sephora Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 Oil-Free $21.99
RENATA DABDOUB “A little goes a long way with this product. It is natural looking and adds just enought shimmer on the feature you want to highlight” BEnefit High Beam S26.00
ELISE KELNER
“good for any skintone, cant leave the house without it.” Nars “orgasm” blush $29
BRIT STAFFORD
“Colour plus texture for the lips. Stands out on the runway. Simmers on the street! What made M·A·C famous.”
ELVA JIANG
“Velvety-smooth formula that goes on easily - and lasts all day without creasing or smearing. Fragrance free. Safe for contact lens wearers even Ophthalmologist tested.” Bobbi Brown Long-Wear Cream Shadow $24 .00
Ruby Woo MAC lipstick $15.00
ALICIA GONZALEZ
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“The perfect color for that Fashionista that’s looking to start over in 2013. With a touch of emerald green, the world will be right at your finger tips.” Chanel LE VERNIS $27.00
BELLA MODA FASHION
FANTASTIC FIND With the need for fast consumption, big retailers are jumping on the PRE ORDER band wagon
Valentino Rockstud Chain Flap Bag, Rouge $2995.00
STUDDED BEAUTY This Valentino F/W 2013 would normally not be available for another couple of months but thanks to the new trend of Pre Ordering, you can now get this bag online at NEIMAN MARCUS
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