Explore Dunedin 2024-25

Page 1


7 From the Mayor

9 Essential information

10-11 What’s on this year

13 It’s all history

14-15 A city of stone

16-17 Larnach Castle

18-19 All the best of Dunedin

21 Doing the business

22 Pour your art out

23 The Chills’ 1990 homecoming

24-25 A city of literature

26-27 Central Dunedin map

28-29 Port Chalmers

30-31 Exploring further

32-33 Dunedin’s in fashion

34 Dining and shopping

36 Green Dunedin

37 Time out for fun

38 Surf’s up

39 Wild things

www.exploredunedin.co.nz

40-41 Otago Peninsula

42 Walks on the mild side

43 Street art

44 The test: Springboks in 1994

45 Sporting times

46 On course for golf

47 Cycle of life

48-49 Accommodation directory

50 The Rolling Stones’ 1965 visit

EXPLORE DUNEDIN 2024-25

www.exploredunedin.co.nz

Editor: Gavin Bertram. gavin.bertram@alliedpress.co.nz

Design: Michael D’Evereux

Sales manager: Nic Dahl. nic.dahl@alliedpress.co.nz

Photos: Dunedin NZ, Allied Press, Geoff Marks, James Lewis. Maps: Basemap/Allan J. Kynaston

General enquiries to Explore Dunedin: PO Box 517, Dunedin 9054.

Phone (03) 477 4760

Published by Allied Press Ltd, 52 Stuart St, Dunedin 9016. © 2024. All rights reserved.

Cover photo: Dunedin NZ

A warm and friendly welcome awaits you at The Craic Irish Tavern in the heart of the Octagon. Sit by the open fire and enjoy a beer from our large local and international selection — including Guinness, Kilkenny, Emerson's and Speight’s. Sit out in the Octagon with a glass of Central Otago wine or barista-made coffee. Have a leisurely lunch from our extensive all-day menu. Try our seafood chowder, Blue Cod beer-battered fish and chips, green lipped mussel bowl or slow-cooked lamb shanks — our menu offers something for everyone.

Explore Otago with our scenic train trips!

Board the iconic Taieri Gorge train and journey through Otago’s sweeping countryside, traverse towering viaducts and glide alongside the rushing Taieri River.

Relax on The Seasider and enjoy panoramic ocean views or visit the charming town of Ōamaru with The Victorian.

If you're a train enthusiast, nature lover or adventure seeker - our scenic train trips are a must-do! Book now at www.dunedinrailways.co.nz or visit the

KIA oRA, WeLcoMe to eXPLoReDUneDIn

ŌTEPOTI DUNEDIN may be a small city but it’s a great place to visit, with many amazing experiences on offer.

Being in a new city is always exciting, but finding your way around can of course be challenging.

Explore Dunedin will help you to quickly find and explore all the best things that Dunedin has on offer, so that you can pack even more into your visit.

As well as a wealth of information about the place and its many attractions, you’ll find easy-to-navigate street maps of the inner-city and Port Chalmers. Explore Dunedin digs into what makes Dunedin one of the great small cities, uncovering its multiple treasures including architecture, culture, street art, fashion, food, wildlife, gardens and much more.

And whether you’re looking for a supermarket, pharmacy, bank, post office, or require a doctor or dentist, you’ll find what you need within these pages. Also at your fingertips will be where to find souvenir and gift shops, malls, specialty retail outlets, restaurants, cafes, and other places of interest.

We hope that Explore Dunedin will contribute towards making your time in the city a memorable experience.

7 / WELCOME

Welcome to Ōtepoti Dunedin, one of New Zealand’s most scenic and historic cities.

Dunedin boasts a unique mix of natural wonders, rare wildlife, and stunning heritage attractions. It is a place where gothic architecture meets sweeping coastal landscapes, offbeat urban charm and cinematic surrounds.

Experience Dunedin’s grand buildings and get a glimpse of the opulent past by visiting some of its many heritage sites. Take a stroll through the idyllic University of Otago campus on your way to our beautiful Botanic Gardens.

The Otago Peninsula is a world-renowned ecotourism destination and home to some of the rarest wildlife around, including endangered species such as the hoiho yelloweyed penguin (the current Bird of the Year).

As the only city in Aotearoa New Zealand to hold the title of UNESCO City of Literature, Dunedin has a thriving creative scene. You’ll find the first public art gallery, vibrant street art painted in historic laneways, marvellous museums, and thrilling theatre. We’re also the home of the famed ‘Dunedin Sound’, with a live music scene to suit every taste.

If culinary experiences are what you seek, Dunedin won’t disappoint. With one of the best farmers markets in the country, a sumptuous café and restaurant scene and an ever-growing stable of destination breweries and distilleries, it’s easy to taste your way around the city’s fantastic offerings.

Visit New Zealand’s oldest castle, the world’s only mainland colony of royal albatross, and tackle the steepest street on the planet all in one day. Afterwards, why not stroll down our ‘totally Georgeous’ main street to check out the poetry inscribed in the pavers and visit our bustling boutiques.

Take your time to explore the many hidden gems and experiences that await. Whether this is your first or last port of call, Ōtepoti Dunedin is bound to be one of the highlights of your trip.

Welcome to one of the most beautiful and unique destinations in New Zealand.

Established in 1874 our lovely little local gem is counted among the oldest original pubs in the country. This picturesque Victorian stone building rests on the banks of Otago Harbour, an easy 15 minutes drive from Central Dunedin.

Open daily for lunch & dinner, serving coffee, craft beers & Central Otago wines, we specialise in local seafood but provide something for everyone including a dedicated vegan menu.

Rest by one of our three cozy open fires or soak up the sun and water views on the large terrace and courtyard.

Don’t miss out on this special experience when exploring the delights of Dunedin.

17 Macandrew Rd, Carey’s Bay, Port Chalmers, Dunedin phone (03) 472 8022 | info@careysbayhotel.co.nz | www.careysbayhotel.co.nz

Photo: Andy Thompson Photography NZ Ltd

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION FOR VISITORS

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY...

Dial 111 for Police, Ambulance, or Fire Brigade.

MEDICAL

Dunedin Public Hospital

Accident and Emergency Department: Open 24 hours, 201 Great King St.

Urgent Doctors

18 Filleul St, phone (03) 479-2900. Open 8am-10pm.

Urgent Pharmacy

18 Filleul St, phone (03) 477-6344. Open 10am-10pm.

Urgent Dentist

Call the urgent doctors above and they’ll give you the number of the dentist on duty.

Disability resource centre

10 George St, phone (03) 471-6152 or 0800 115 891. www.livingwellcentre.nz

POLICE

The Dunedin Central Police Station is at 25 Great King St in the central city. Phone (03) 471-4800.

i-SITE VISITOR CENTRE

Located in the Octagon, Dunedin’s i-Site Visitor Centre is the place to make bookings for tours, access self-guided tour routes, find maps and bus timetables, and read up on a range of activities available around the city.

BANKING

Foreign currency can easily be exchanged at most banks and hotels. ATM cash machines are found throughout the city, all major credit cards are accepted and nearly all businesses have EFTPOS.

WHAt’s on In DUneDIn

There’s always something going in this vibrant and dynamic city.

NOVEMBER

Crowded House

Dunedin Town Hall, November 12

Neil Finn and band return to Dunedin for a show supporting their recent album Gravity Stairs.

DECEMBER

Cirque Africa

Regent Theatre, December 15

A vibrant family-friendly show with acrobatic talent, contortionists, dance, and song.

JANUARY

Freestyle Kingz

Forsyth Barr Stadium, January 31

Strap yourself in for a spectacular featuring worldclass freestyle motocross athletes.

FEBRUARY

Chinese New Year

Lan Yuan Dunedin Chinese Gardens, February 1

See in the Year of the Earth Snake with a Dragon Parade, dancers, great food, and fireworks.

MARCH

International cricket University of Otago Oval, March 18

The Black Caps take on Pakistan and the White Ferns meet Sri Lanka in this T20 doubleheader.

APRIL

Wild Dunedin NZ Festival of Nature

Various venues, April 11-22 Opportunities for locals and visitors alike to view Dunedin’s very special wildlife up close.

MAY

Super Rugby Pacific

Forsyth Barr Stadium, dates TBC

Super Rugby Pacific kicks off in February, and the Highlanders will be hoping for finals footie.

JUNE

Midwinter Carnival First Church, date TBC. During Winter Solstice, a creative wonderland celebrating the distinctive seasons of the south.

JULY

New Zealand International Science Festival

Various venues, June 28July 6

Celebrating all areas, the festival transforms Dunedin into a city alive with science.

AUGUST

New Zealand International Film Festival

Venue and date TBC

A highlight on New Zealand’s film calendar, with a vast programme of high quality cinema.

SEPTEMBER

Port Chalmers Seafood Festival

Port Otago, date TBC

The perfect day out for seafood lovers, with high-quality beverages and entertainment for all.

OCTOBER

Dunedin Readers and Writers Festival

Various venues, October 17-19

The festival offers a diverse array of events, spanning various genres and literary themes.

ALL tHe fAsHIon

iD Fashion

Dunedin Railway Station, April 1-6, 2025

Launched in 1999, iD Fashion focuses on fostering emerging design talent and promoting established designers. The 2025 event will include the iD International Emerging Designer Awards competition, and the iD Dunedin Fashion Show at the Dunedin Railway Station on the evenings of Friday 4 and Saturday 5 April.

It’s ALL HIstoRy

New Zealand’s first city, Dunedin/Ōtepoti is certainly a city of firsts.

The city boasts a rich heritage, a renowned university, and a thriving culture that belies its small population.

Maori settled around the harbour first: Waitaha, Kāti Māmoe, and Kāi Tahu.

European settlers came - whalers and sealers, followed by the Scots. They imagined a city, and called it Dunedin - an Anglicized form of the Gaelic for Edinburgh.

The Otago Gold Rush of the 1860s brought huge wealth that much of Dunedin’s rich heritage is now connected to. The University of Otago,

schools, businesses, and other beloved institutions were built.

Gold also attracted other peoples, including the Chinese in 1865, while there were also strong Jewish and Lebanese communities.

Dunedin is home to a grounded and creative population of over 130,000. Many from out of town come here to study, to experience the unique culture, outstanding wildlife, and the heritage architecture.

Like everyone who visits the city, they’re also wowed by the food, the street art, the surf, sporting facilities, and so much more.

WHAt MADe DUneDIn?

An impressive exhibition

The New Zealand and South Seas International Exhibition is probably still the biggest event Dunedin has ever hosted.

Held over a six month period from November 1925 on a large area of reclaimed land, it attracted over three million visitors.

The expansive pavilions housed displays from New Zealand and beyond, while the exhibition also featured an amusement park, an aquarium, and a restaurant.

Some of the events that created the Dunedin of today. 12 million years BP

Dunedin Volcano active. 1330s

First Māori arrive. 1725

Arrival of Ngāi Tahu. 1770

Cook’s Endeavour sails by. 1815

William Tucker the first European settler. 1840

Treaty of Waitangi signed by local chiefs. 1848

Dunedin is founded, with the first Scottish settlers. 1861

The Central Otago Gold Rush begins. 1865

Dunedin becomes New Zealand’s first city.

1871

University of Otago is the first in the country. 1878

Railway to Christchurch completed. 1882

First shipment of refrigerated meat leaves Port Chalmers. 1884

Dunedin Public Art Gallery founded by William Hodgkins. 1906

Dunedin Railway Station opened. 1914

First flight over Dunedin made by James Scotland. 1921

New Zealand’s first radio broadcast made by Prof Robert Jack.

1925

Three million visitors to New Zealand and South Seas International Exhibition.

1932

The Great Depression spurs riots.

1954

Queen Elizabeth II visits on Coronation tour.

1961

MS Seven Seas first cruise ship to visit.

1962

Momona Airport opens.

1964

The Beatles perform two Town Hall shows.

1972

Now world-famous Dunedin Longitudinal Study begins.

1981

‘Dunedin Sound’ begins with The Clean’s Tally Ho.

1987

Baldwin St recognised as world’s steepest.

1989

New boundaries make Dunedin New Zealand’s biggest city.

1994

First international flight to the city arrives.

2011

Elton John opens Forsyth Barr Stadium.

2014

Dunedin became a UNESCO City of Literature.

2015

Highlanders are Super Rugby champions.

Dunedin during the Otago Gold Rush in 1861.
(Photo: William Meluish/Te Papa)

Dunedin boasts an enviable built landscape, with impressive architectural sights all around the central city.

A cIty of stone

Thanks to the Otago Gold Rush of the 1860s, Dunedin’s early affluence meant numerous majestic buildings were constructed. And thanks to a relative lack of growth during the middle of the 20th Century, the majority survived.

As a result, the late historian Dr Rodney Wilson stated in 2009 that Dunedin could be a World Heritage Site due to its ‘‘astonishingly wellpreserved architecture’’.

• BNZ Building (Cnr Princes and Rattray Streets)

‘‘It has a certain appearance of massiveness, combined with beauty and richness of design...’’ the Illustrated New Zealand Herald said of William Armson’s grand building in the 1880s.

• Consultancy House (Bond Street)

The Luttrell brothers modeled their 1910 New Zealand Express Company building on the lofty buildings of the Chicago School. It was New Zealand’s first skyscraper.

• Dunedin Municipal Chambers (Octagon)

The seat of the Dunedin City Council, Lawson’s 1880 Neo-Renaissance civic building commands a powerful presence in the centre of town.

• Dunedin Railway Station (Anzac Square)

By many accounts the most photographed building in New Zealand, George Troup’s 1906 Renaissance Revivalist wonder is undoubtedly the jewel in Dunedin’s architectural crown.

• First Church (Moray Place)

Robert Lawson’s 1873 Presbyterian First Church of Otago was an important development for the colonists. The Neo-Gothic masterpiece remains an important aspect of the city scape.

• Knox Church (George Street)

Another of Lawson’s prominent contributions to the city, the second main Presbyterian church was completed in 1876. Its interior is more elaborate than First Church.

• Law Courts (Stuart Street) Completed in 1902, the ominous presence of John Campbell’s Law Courts is due to the Victorian Gothic styling and dark breccia stone. It was fully refurbished in 2016.

• Otago Boys’ High School (London Street) Looming over the city like something from Harry Potter, the Gothic revivalist glory of Lawson’s Otago Boys’ main building was completed in 1885.

• St Paul’s Cathedral (Octagon) Home of the Anglican Diocese of Dunedin. Consecrated in 1919, it was designed by Sedding and Wheatley in England, with Dunedin’s Basil Hooper the supervising architect.

• University of Otago (Dunedin North) Maxwell Bury’s beautiful Registry Building is the main attraction on campus, but Ted McCoy’s 1970s concrete monolith the Richardson Building is also stunning.

Dunedin’s Best Mexican Restaurant

Church was Robert Lawson’s Neo-Gothic masterpiece. (Photo: James Lewis)
The Octagon features some architectural highlights. (Photo: DunedinNZ) The Express Company building was inspired by the Chicago School. (Photo: DunedinNZ)
Dunedin Railway Station is New Zealand’s most photographed building. (Photo: James Lewis)

The restoration of the 150-year-old Larnach Castle has been the longterm project of the Barker family.

tHeRestoRAtIon of A

cAstLe

PROVIDING a quality visitor experience is paramount at Larnach Castle, but that’s challenging when there’s a major restoration project being done.

While it’s hard to balance the two aspects of the popular tourist destination on Otago Peninsula, many visitors are fascinated to see the restoration work in progress.

“Every year you’ve got to say ‘how do we serve both beasts?’” managing director Norcombe Barker relates. “The hardest part is that it’s always a shifting target.”

That’s because it’s been impossible to accurately predict the scope of the work. At present the roof of the castle is being replaced, and through that process further rotten beams were discovered. That kind of unfortunate discovery has been a common thread throughout the ongoing restoration of Larnach Castle. Those involved in the work have come to accept the challenges.

“You learn that you just go with it, and it’s not going to be simple,” Barker says. “We’ve got to take care of the guests during that as best we can. We keep a close eye on it, and we keep a good pulse check on how our guests are feeling.”

MARGARET and Barry Barker bought the Castle in 1967, when it was in a state of severe disrepair. Norcombe was born a year later, and so has been witness to the massive project to restore the building and gardens. Since 1990, he’s steered that work as the destination’s director.

It’s seemed like a neverending exercise. However, the roof work now being done will render Larnach Castle watertight for the first time in living memory. Even so, there is a lot more work lined up for the future.

And as one of Dunedin’s most popular tourist attractions, it’s not just the restoration work that requires investment. This year

a new payroll system has been implemented and a new generator installed.

“There are all the things that the public don’t see,” Barker says. “We have to balance it off with the restoration, but also things that the tourists appreciate. Because when we do a roof, the tourists don’t appreciate it the same.”

With the hefty cost of the scaffolding around the tower, there’s impetus to get as much further work done while it’s up.

Although it can impact on what visitors are able to see, marketing manager Jo van der Linden says many enjoy viewing a restoration project up close.

Executive director Norcombe Barker with the castle under renovation.
(Photo: Otago Daily Times)
Larnach Castle is the jewel in Dunedin’s tourism crown. (Photo: Dunedin NZ)

“We’re a privately owned and funded enterprise, so it’s a really cool way for people to see what their money is paying for,” she says. “We have quite a few locals come back a few times just to see how everything is progressing.”

That interest has extended to visitors having in depth conversations with the various tradespeople working on the project. Many have also made heartwarming remarks about the project, and shown gratitude to the Barker family for overseeing it.

LARNACH Castle attracts around 120,000 visitors from across the tourism spectrum every year.

During the cruise ship season in the warmer months, many guests will enjoy the experience of a guided tour.

Some will have lunch at the castle, or perhaps a Victorian high tea or Devonshire tea in the ballroom.

While the cruise market is hugely important, it was domestic tourism that kept things afloat during the pandemic.

Restoration work ceased at that time, and they’ve been endeavoring to catch up since.

“The fact that we’ve got money to spend on these projects is pretty great,” Norcombes considers. “Because when Covid hit, you didn’t know where that was going to go. So I’m very grateful for where we are.”

As well as being appreciative of the local support they’ve had, Larnach Castle also gives back through various community initiatives, including donations and fundraising.

Barker has served as the chair of local tourism industry body DunedinHOST, and is a director of Business South, and is a trustee of the Dunedin Prison and the Wild Dunedin Festival of Nature.

But his main focus remains the ongoing management and restoration of Larnach Castle. Barker says that their heritage consultant Guy Williams has taught him how important the place is to the fabric of Dunedin.

He particularly loves that many visitors have a memory of the castle, perhaps from a wedding, or from a visit when they were a child.

“That’s why we’ve changed our tagline from ‘New Zealand’s only castle’ to ‘New Zealand’s castle’,” Barker says. “Everyone feels like they can have a bit of the castle, and we really like that. It’s actually lovely.”

New Zealand’s Castle

It’s easy to see why William Larnach chose the hilltop Otago Peninsula location for his impressive residence.

The merchant baron and politician spared no expense, using the finest materials from around the world on what he called ‘The Camp’. Locals came to know it as ‘the Castle’.

The Robert Lawson designed building was completed in 1874, although additions were made to the interior until 1887.

After Larnach’s suicide in 1898, the family sold the castle in 1906. Between then and the Barkers’ ownership, the castle was used as a holiday retreat for nuns, and a hospital for mental health patients and shell-shocked soldiers.

It changed owners five times between 1927 and 1967, before Margaret and Barry Barker called it their own.

• Baldwin Street

ALL tHe best

For those whose time in Dunedin is limited, here are the 10 iconic places you must visit while here.

The eight-sided city centre is not Dunedin’s most famous route - that honour falls to what is officially the world’s steepest street. North East Valley’s Baldwin Street was first recognised by the Guinness Book of Records in 1987, before losing the title in 2019 to a Welsh pretender. That decision was reversed due to an appeal in 2020.

• Dunedin Botanic Garden

When it’s time for a green fix, the Dunedin Botanic Garden will tick all the boxes. New Zealand’s first botanic garden, it opened in 1863, and is now a six star Garden of International Significance. Across the more than 30 hectares you’ll find an impressive rose garden, New Zealand native plants, and superb plant collections from around the world.

• Dunedin Railway Station

While up to 100 trains a day steamed through at its peak, the Dunedin Railway Station is a quieter place now. Designed by George Troup, the 1906 Renaissance Revivalist building is the most photographed in New Zealand, and Dunedin Railways’ world class train trips still depart from there.

• Lan Yuan, Dunedin Chinese Garden

One of only three authentic Chinese Gardens outside of China, Lan Yuan commemorates the place of Chinese people in Dunedin. Opened in 2008,

Speight’s Brewery was founded in 1876.

it was attracting over 30,000 people annually just a few years later. As well as being a lovely place to visit, the Garden is also a popular venue for weddings and functions.

• Larnach Castle

With a captivating history stretching back to 1871, New Zealand’s only castle boasts a commanding position atop the Otago Peninsula. Left to ruin, it was rescued by the Barker family in the late 1960s, and they’ve spent decades carefully restoring the Gothic Revivalist castle and attached buildings. Surrounded by a Garden of International Significance, it’s a must visit.

• Olveston House

Another jewel in Dunedin’s built heritage crown, Olveston was the home of businessman and philanthropist David Theomin and his family. His daughter Dorothy gifted the house and its stunning array of contents to the City of Dunedin upon her death in 1966. Nestled on the fringes of Dunedin’s Town Belt, Olveston serves as a lens into the city’s Edwardian era.

• Orokonui Ecosanctuary

Since 2007 Orokonui has been a flagship biodiversity project in the South Island. Surrounded by a predator fence, the 307 hectares of forest provides sanctuary to multiple species of plants and animals, including many native birds, bats, and tuatara. With

various walks and tours on offer, as well as the visitor centre and Horopito Cafe, Orokonui offers a good day out.

• Speight’s Brewery

James Speight launched his Rattray Street brewery in 1876. It, and the famous Gold Medal Ale, remain important facets of Dunedin’s cultural makeup. In the 1930s, local architect Harry Mandeno designed much of the building seen today. Speight’s offer excellent brewery tours that will get you behind the scenes, while the adjacent Ale House offers excellent fare.

• Taiaroa Head

At the tip of the Otago Peninsula, Taiaroa Head was the site of a Maori pā established around 1650. During the Russian Scare of the 1880s defenses were built there, including an Armstrong disappearing gun that’s still in place. Taiaroa Head is also home to the Royal Albatross Centre - home to the only mainland albatross colony in the Southern Hemisphere.

• University of Otago

Founded in 1871, the University of Otago is the oldest in New Zealand. Having moved to its North Dunedin location in 1879 after a few years in the Exchange, the University has been expanding since. It’s both the centre of learning and a hub for the 20,000 strong student population, who add a certain vibrancy to the city.

(Photo: Dunedin NZ)

10 MoRe tHIngs to Do…

Explore these other Dunedin marvels while you’re here.

1. Museum of Natural Mystery

In a suburban villa you’ll find an array of curiosities, both natural and mysterious.

2. New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame

The country’s proud sporting history on display, at Dunedin Railway Station.

3. Ross Creek

Stretch your legs on the tracks around the historic Ross Creek Reservoir.

4. Dunedin Ice Stadium

Ice skating, ice hockey, and curling are on offer at this popular destination.

5. Gasworks Museum

Explore the city’s industrial heritage at New Zealand’s first and last gasworks.

6. Moana Pool

A world-class facility not far from town, with a wave pool, diving, and more.

7. Tunnel Beach

A spectacular location, steeped in history – and an Instagrammer’s dream.

8. Carey’s Bay

The 1874 pub sits in a beautiful spot, and features an excellent restaurant.

9. Mt Cargill

Amazing views over the city, and take a walk to the basalt Organ Pipes.

10. Wal’s Plant and Fun Land

A hedge maze, mini-putt golf, a miniature train and more, near Mosgiel.

The Museum of Natural Mystery. (Photo: Hayden Parsons)
Olveston House offers a lens into Edwardian life.
Lan Yuan celebrates the region’s Chinese heritage.
The spectacular Larnach Castle has been carefully restored.
(Photo: Dunedin NZ)
(Photo: Dunedin NZ)
(Photo: Dunedin NZ)

DoIng tHe bUsIness

Dunedin has been the home of innovative businesses since its colonial beginnings.

THE CITY’S early development as a major commercial centre was a consequence of the Central Otago Goldrush of the 1860s.

That saw Dunedin burgeon overnight, attracting hard working entrepreneurs with a vision for the new colony.

Brands including Shacklock, Hallensteins, Hudsons, Greggs, Bell Tea, Methvens, and Speight’s were all born in this atmosphere of opportunity.

By 1894 Shacklock appliances were being sold throughout New Zealand, and they produced the country’s first electric range in 1925. In 1955 they were taken over by Fisher & Paykel, a company that still maintains a large design centre in Dunedin.

Bendix Hallenstein opened the New Zealand Clothing Factory in

State of the Union

Founded in Dunedin in 1875, the Union Steam Ship Company became the biggest shipping line in the southern hemisphere. Due to its dominance of transTasman shipping, the company was nicknamed ‘The Southern Octopus’. At its peak it was New Zealand’s largest private employer.

Until 1921, the Union Steam Ship Company was headquartered on Dunedin’s Water Street. But after P&O purchased the company

Dunedin in 1873. Hallensteins, like his other enterprise The D.I.C. department stores became national chains.

Hudson’s Biscuits boomed in Dunedin from 1868, when Richard Hudson built his first bake-house. In 1930 Hudson’s joined with Cadbury to make New Zealand’s first Cadbury Dairy Milk chocolate bar.

Alongside chocolate, tea was another staple produced in Dunedin. Bell Tea were here for over 100 years, starting in 1898. Tiger Tea was another institution in the city, with its enduring slogan “It’s so good, it goes further”.

Gregg’s has been a success story since Irish immigrant William Gregg established the company in 1861. Originally specialising in coffee and spice, their range has

expanded over the decades. Launched in 1886, Methven continues to innovate, and the company operates in several territories internationally.

Another stayer is Speight’s Brewery, established here by George Speight in 1876. Within 10 years they were the biggest brewery in the country, and have remained an impressive presence.

Other Dunedin companies that have survived include footwear manufacturers McKinlay’s (1879), beverage makers West’s (1876), food company Harraways (1867), and Otago Furniture (1868).

In more recent decades, a wave of Dunedin-founded tech companies including Education Perfect and ADInstruments have emergedthe product of the city’s tertiary institutions.

its operations were moved to Wellington.

As well as cargo they offered passenger services, and were even pioneers of passenger aviation in

both New Zealand and Australia. After various buy-outs, the Union Steam Ship Company ceased to exist at the dawn of the new Millennium.

Dunedin is a great place to do business. (Photo: Dunedin NZ)
The RMS Niagara was a Union Steam Ship Company vessel.

OPEN 7 DAYS | FREE ENTRY | FREE WIFI

10am – 5pm | Closed Christmas Day

31 Queens Gardens, Dunedin P (03) 477 5052

www.toituosm.com

The creative arts are an important thread in Dunedin’s rich cultural tapestry.

tHe cULtURAL LAnDscAPe

Among the New Zealand firsts that the city can claim was the 1884 opening of a Public Art Gallery - the first in the country.

It was founded by William Hodgkins, whose daughter Frances went on to become one of New Zealand’s most renowned artists on the international stage.

Unsurprisingly, the Dunedin Public Art Gallery in the Octagon holds a substantial collection of her work.

There is also a large collection of Old Masters, with work from Monet, Lowry, Turner, Constable, and many others.

Many important New Zealand artists are represented, including those who spent time in Dunedin - Colin McCahon, Ralph Hotere, Robin White, Shane Cotton, Grahame Sydney and others.

The Art Gallery has an extensive programme of exhibitions both contemporary and from the collection.

There are also numerous dealer galleries around the streets of Dunedin, representing all tiers of New Zealand artists.

Music has long held an important place in the city, with the words to the national anthem God Defend New Zealand written here in the 1870s. The Dunedin Symphony Orchestra has been performing regularly since 1965, and the Mozart Fellowship and the School of Performing Arts at the University figure in the musical landscape. Contemporary music has also been an important stream. Acts from the 1970s including Lutha, Craig Scott, and Mother Goose paved the way.

But the ‘Dunedin Sound’ of the 1980s and 90s gained international acclaim that continues, with bands like The Chills, Straitjacket Fits, The Clean, Verlaines, and the 3Ds touring the world.

Several decades on, acts including Six60 and Nadia Reid launched their careers from Dunedin and have gone on to greater things.

There are some excellent venues around townthat often host shows, including the Town Hall, Regent Theatre, and the Mayfair Theatre.

Regular cultural events in the city include the annual Fringe Festival, and the biannual Arts Festival.

LARgeR tHAn LIfe

The Chills returned home to Dunedin in 1990 with a triumphant show at the Town Hall.

With their album topping the New Zealand charts, The Chills were welcomed home with a Mayoral reception in July 1990.

The glorious Submarine Bells went to number one not long after its release in June, and stayed there for several weeks as the band toured the country.

“Dunedin has always been proud of its achievers,” Mayor Richard Walls said. “It’s great to have you back, we’re all fiercely proud of you, and we’re with you all the way.”

Martin Phillipps had formed the band in 1980, when he was still in his mid-teens. As part of a wave of bands that were given the ‘Dunedin Sound’ moniker, The Chills became a favourite live act in New Zealand.

But songs including Pink Frost and I Love My Leather Jacket introduced them to an adoring international audience. Despite regular changes in the band’s line-up, the band found favour in the northern hemisphere, touring regularly in the UK, Europe, and the United States.

By 1990 The Chills were signed to Slash Records, a large Los Angeles independent label. Submarine Bells and its single Heavenly Pop Hit were the first products of that deal. They both gained attention internationally, but particularly in New Zealand.

The sold-out Dunedin Town Hall show on Sunday July 8 was the final date of the New Zealand tour. Joining the bill were fellow local acts The 3Ds and The Bats.

Although the huge homecoming show proved to be the last outing for that phase of The Chills, it was a triumphant ending.

Martin Phillipps, who died in July 2024, remembered it as “a very special gig”.

“It was kind of a mind blowing experience really,” he said. “I’d seen a number of acts on that stage, and to find ourselves there was quite overwhelming.”

A perfect frost

The haunting 1984 single Pink Frost remains The Chills’ best known track.

It remained in the New Zealand charts for months, was ‘Single of the Week’ in the NME, and was played by John Peel on his famous BBC show.

“If it’s to be the song we’re most remembered for, I’m happy with that,” songwriter Martin Phillipps said in 2008. “I can look back at Pink Frost as being a high point of that period. I was still kind of naïve, but a strong young person striding down my path. I’m proud of what I accomplished at that time.”

(Photo: Gerard O’Brien)
The Dunedin Public Art Gallery engages young minds.
(Photo: Dunedin NZ)
(Photo: Dunedin NZ)
(Photo: Dunedin NZ)
Nadia Reid is one of the city’s best musical exports.
The annual Fringe Festival serves up a feast of creativity.

tHe gooD WoRDs

Dunedin is one of just 53 UNESCO Cities of Literature around the world.

Ōtepoti Dunedin was designated a UNESCO City of Literature in 2014, becoming the first UNESCO Creative City in New Zealand.

Participation in the Creative Cities Network offers a unique opportunity for our wonderful writers and shines a light on the rich diversity of talent in our city and across Aotearoa.

Ōtepoti City of Literature celebrates local writing in te reo Māori, English, and all languages and across all genres — from fiction, non-fiction, and children's books to poetry, spoken word, scriptwriting, and lyrics. It also connects the literary community through libraries, schools, bookshops, festivals, workshops, events, performances, exhibitions, and more.

The designation offers international exposure and opportunities, such as residencies, fellowships, online events, and collaborations, to both established and emerging writers.

Ōtepoti’s Caselberg Trust Margaret Egan Cities of Literature Writers Residency, based at the Caselberg House, enables writers to work on significant projects while fostering connections within the community.

Ōtepoti has always been home to renowned story tellers, orators, writers, poets, playwrights, illustrators, and publishers, some of whom are commemorated in the Dunedin Writers’ Walk. The Walk features plaques around the upper

Octagon honouring the contribution to the city’s rich literary heritage.

The City of Literature teamed up with English & Linguistics at the University of Otago to create dtour, an app which connects over a hundred extraordinary local writers and their stories to significant sites around Ōtepoti.

These locations reflect the city's vibrant literary history and showcase its unique built heritage and natural beauty. The app features original scripts voiced in English and te reo Māori and beautiful images from Hocken Collections.

Download the app for free on your Apple or Android device and set off on a memorable journey of literary discovery.

on George Street, including lines from Hone Tuwhare’s poem Prodigal City.

Bookshopping

As a home of literature, it should be no surprise that Dunedin has many great bookshops.

• Hard to Find

The biggest selection of second books in the country, with much more stock than is on display available online.

• University Book Shop

A sanctuary for Dunedin book lovers since 1945, UBS caters both to students and the general public.

• Dead Souls

Another secondhand phantasmagoria, Dead Souls has a vast collection with many rare books available.

• Hospice Shop

Underneath the main Hospice Shop you’ll find a brilliant selection of secondhand books at very reasonable prices.

• Paper Plus

In the Golden Centre Mall, Paper Plus has stationery, magazines, cards, and a broad selection of new books.

Take a moment to acknowledge the literary treasures
Six wāhine artists teamed up to respond to Intuit by Iona Winter (Waitaha/Kāi Tahu), seamlessly weaving the poem into this mural. (Photo/artwork: Dreamgirls Art Collective)

A PLAce of LIteRARy gIAnts

As a City of Literature Dunedin has been home to many wellknown writers, including Janet Frame.

To mark a century since Janet Frame’s birth in August, the UK Guardian included a lengthy biography of the writer.

Such was Frame’s reputation on the international stage. Her 1957 novel Owls Do Cry had previously been named ‘New Zealand’s first great novel’ by the same newspaper.

Born in Dunedin, she’d largely grown up in Oamaru before returning to the city to become a teacher in 1943.

Several years later Frame was admitted to a psychiatric institution for the first time. She spent eight years in and out of hospitals for what was later diagnosed as depression.

While still a patient at Dunedin’s Seacliff Asylum, her first book of short stories was published by Caxton Press. The Lagoon and Other Stories won a prestigious prize and resulted in the cancellation of Frame’s lobotomy.

Owls Do Cry was written in the shed at famed New Zealand writer Frank Sargeson’s house on Auckland’s North Shore. By the time it was published Frame was living overseas, in Europe and the United Kingdom.

After her return to New Zealand, the writer was the University of Otago’s Burns Fellow in 1965, and she continued to write prolifically.

Three volumes of autobiography were published in the 1980s, and these were the basis for Jane Campion’s award-winning 1990 film An Angel at My Table.

After living in the North Island, Frame returned to live in Dunedin in 1997, where she died in 2004.

In her autobiography, she’d stated “It is little wonder that I value writing as a way of life when it actually saved my life.”

Seafood restaurant and takeaway. A Dunedin institution since 1932

Open 7 days 11.30am - 8.00pm 30 Stuart St, Dunedin Central www.bestcafe.co.nz • Ph: 03 4778059

The late Dunedin writer Janet Frame. (Photo: Supplied)

seconDHAnD booKsHoPs

tHe fIRst PoRt of cALL

Be sure to have a good look around Port Chalmers during your Dunedin visit.

Whether it’s your point of arrival or a destination while you’re in town, a poke around quaint Port Chalmers is a must.

There you’ll find a multitude of gems awaiting your discovery and enjoyment, just 13km from Dunedin.

The port-side settlement has a thriving arts community, so check out the local art galleries and design shops for something beautiful, while George Street also features pubs and cafes.

Local history is celebrated at the excellent Port Chalmers Maritime Museum, housed inside the 1877 Post Office. The port was the

departure point for New Zealand’s first frozen meat shipment, while Captain Robert Scott’s ill-fated Antarctic expedition also left from here.

There’s a memorial to Scott high on the hill behind the town, while the Flagstaff Lookout offers brilliant views of Port Otago’s constant activity, as well as a restored time ball and the sculptures of Hōtere Garden Oputae.

Idyllic Carey’s Bay neighbours Port Chalmers, with the Carey’s Bay Historic Hotel offering indoor and outdoor dining with views of the bay, home to the local fishing fleet.

(Photo: Dunedin NZ)
The view from the Scott Memorial above Port Chalmers.

PORT

CHALMERS WALKS

1. Boiler Point Walk

Follow Macandrew Rd towards Carey’s Bay, and through carpark by Rowing Club.

2. Carey’s Bay via Lady Thorn Dell and Cemetery Up Church St to Dell, continue up to cemetery, and further to Carey’s Bay.

3. Flagstaff and sculpture garden

Walk up Grey St, turn left at Scotia St, then to Aurora Tce.

4. Flagstaff down to Back Beach

A steep descent from Flagstaff, then zigzag to Peninsula Rd, and Yacht Club.

5. Back Beach

Start from Yacht Club, follow gravel track on reclamation edge to picnic table - and fishing.

6. Full Harbourside Walk

Wickliffe Tce, follow around to Victory Pl, then Peninsula Beach Rd, follow back around to Port Otago.

7. Skyline Walk

Native bush track from Scott Memorial, to a seat with skyline views.

ALL ARoUnD toWn

There’s plenty in Dunedin beyond the central city - look around the suburbs and you’ll find some hidden gems.

Baldwin Street is the steepest street in the world, having seized the title back from a Welsh pretender in 2020.

If you’re feeling energetic, take a stroll up the residential culde-sac in North East Valley. You may then need to recover with an ice cream and a wander around beautiful Chingford Park.

The hill suburbs tell the story of Dunedin’s heritage, with lavish mansions, sublime villas, and well-maintained bungalows.

Maori Hill, Roslyn, Belleknowes, and Mornington

Baldwin Street is the steepest in the world.

all flow into each other, with cafes and shops dotted along the ridgeline above the city’s town belt.

Cable cars were once the best mode of transport to reach these elevated suburbs. Take in the view over the central city and harbour from Roslyn Bridge.

Look south and you’ll find South Dunedin and St Clair. The heavily populated south of the city is a totally different thing to the CBD.

St Clair and St Kilda beaches are a magnet for sun lovers, swimmers, surfers, and

everyone who likes food.

Perfect for morning coffee, a long lunch, or casual evening dining, and you can walk it all off along the beach.

Or head south to Brighton, a great place for a family day out with a picnic, fish’n’chips, or an ice cream at the beach.

Also south are the temperate climes of Mosgiel, a growing satellite town with a population of around 15,000, and its own unique charm.

No matter which direction you head in, there’s always something new to do in Dunedin.

(Photo: Dunedin NZ)

FASHION

best DResseD

Dunedin is a hub for fashion in the south, with its own style.

Having celebrated its 23rd year in 2023, iD Fashion Dunedin has put the city on the international fashion map.

The huge showcase is held in April, with an edgy blend of high profile designers from New Zealand and abroad and innovative emerging fashion from around the globe.

In 2023 it returned to the platform at the Dunedin Railway Station, a stunning heritage venue beloved by iD fans for many years.

The event is the biggest in the local fashion calendar, but at any time of the year Dunedin can be a mecca for the apparel obsessed.

A raft of local designers have grown out of the unique culture on offer, some taking their designs to the world.

While Margi Robertson’s NOM*d showed on the runways of London Fashion Week in 1999, others including Company of Strangers, Charmaine Reveley, Mild Red, and Carlson have also thrived here.

Now Auckland-based, designer Tanya Carlson is the head judge of the iD International Emerging Designer Awards. The event attracts entries from around the world — including many from graduates of Otago Polytechnic’s Fashion Design School.

Offering numerous qualifications in fashion design, the school is a very important facet of Dunedin’s vibrant fashion landscape.

328 George St, Dunedin anne mardell antler ater blacklist bored george cartel & willow coop cooper curate maxed mimoso mink pink neris nes non nyne nineteen 46 naturals ricochet recreate staple the label silk & steel storm tuesday two by two

The iD Fashion event attracts both local and international designers.
(Photo: Dunedin NZ)

DesIgneD In DUneDIn

Craig Scott is the Chairperson of Dunedin Designed Inc and owner of the Self Destruct Studio label.

Explain Guild and Dunedin Designed, and how it began?

GUILD is a project of Dunedin Designed Inc, which is a not-for-profit society created in 2014 to promote and foster Dunedin design. The GUILD store was established in Moray Place by a group of local designers looking for a retail space they could collectively run to make the financial cost viable. In 2019 we moved to our current location at 145 Stuart Street and have been going from strength to strength. The store features fashion, jewellery, homewares, art, fragrances and more, all made by local creatives.

How exciting is it working with local designers?

We have 12 permanent designers in store who staff the shop, and everyone brings their own creative flair and unique design viewpoint. This year Dallas Synnott and I created the Awful Things label which culminated in a pop-up event for iD Fashion Week where we worked with 40 local designers and artists and turned a retail space completely black as a nod to the Ōtepoti gothic aesthetic featuring only black-coloured products. Awful Things is now also stocked in GUILD, and watch this space for something exciting next year!

What do you like most about Dunedin?

I find the size of Dunedin makes it much easier for local creatives to collaborate and make things happen. There is such a wealth of talent in this city and so many people doing great things. There’s definitely a DIY ethos where you can do something amazing with limited resources rather than just being handed something on a platter. I think it’s really important to have that grounding, so when bigger opportunities do come along, the output can be so much greater.

GUILD by Dunedin Designed INC www.GuildDunedin.co.nz

Specialist Embroidery and Quilting Shop

Tue to Fri: 10am to 5pm Sat: 10am to 4pm 03 471 7388 · stitchwitches.co.nz

GUILD features products made by local creatives. (Photo: Neat Places Dunedin)
Wool Tapestry Kits 9 Designs Available

Carey’s Bay Historic Hotel has an excellent menu.

(Photo: Dunedin NZ)

eAt UP

Dunedin is a paradise for foodies, as it remains a hub for the vast array of food producers in the Otago region.

That’s best represented at the Otago Farmers Market in the carpark next to the Railway Station each Saturday morning, with the opportunity to buy direct from producers.

The Craic Irish Tavern has warm and friendly service, with a great selection of beverages, and an extensive menu.

South of the Octagon you’ll find the Grand Bar and Restaurant at the Grand Casino where you can enjoy contemporary New Zealand cuisine.

The Press Club bar and restaurant at Fable Hotel is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, offering a sophisticated menu.

Delsol offers the authentic taste of Mexican cuisine in the

heart of the city, with the freshest ingredients used to create traditional Mexican dishes.

Over 20 years since they opened, the Speight’s Ale House Dunedin Bar and Restaurant is still ‘‘generous to a fault’’. Their menu has something for every taste.

The Cookie Time Cookie Bar on George Street has delicious fresh hot cookies and cookie inspired creations –shakes, ice cream cookie sandwiches, and more.

Carey’s Bay Historic Hotel is one bay around from Port Chalmers. There’s an excellent menu with both seafood and other mains, and a welcoming atmosphere.

Shop ‘til you drop

Dunedin’s retail zone stretches out in both directions from the Octagon.

don’t ignore the side streets, as there are quirky stores and fashion boutiques dotted everywhere - including upstairs, so be prepared to explore and make some exciting discoveries.

George St, Princes St, and Moray Place are at the heart of Dunedin’s shopping precinct, with all offering a diverse range of stores. you’re guaranteed to find something unique.

The malls on George Street, including the Wall Street Mall, offer boutique shopping, international brands, and some great food.

Head north or south from the Octagon and you won’t be disappointed with the diversity of shopping on offer.

DUNEDIN MUSEUM OF NATURAL MYSTERY

A small private museum and gallery that might just be the most interesting and unusual collection in the whole country. Highly rated on Trip Advisor.

Located at - 61 Royal Terrace Open every Friday afternoon and weekend www.royaldunedinmuseum.com

Stockists of quality, locally-made jewellery and carvings, including Evolve charm beads and jewellery.

Moonshine, Ground Floor, Meridian Mall, Dunedin

gReen Is gooD

Dunedin is paradise for outdoor lovers, with an abundance of green spaces to explore.

There are the Gardens of International Significance at Larnach Castle and the Dunedin Botanic Gardens, and many other glorious spaces to visit.

Part of the Dunedin Town Belt, the Botanic Gardens stretch up the hill and include formal areas, rock gardens, and wilder tracks through various plant collections. And you can feed the ducks!

The idyllic Woodhaugh Gardens are perfect for a family picnic. A 15-minute walk from the city centre, and has a paddling pool and playground with swings, slides, and a flying fox.

Opened in 2008, Lan Yan Dunedin Chinese Garden is in the middle of the city. The only garden of its type in the Southern Hemisphere, it celebrates the Chinese influence in Otago.

The historic Glenfalloch Garden on Otago Peninsula was started in 1871. There’s a 100-year-old Matai, rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias, native ferns, exotic imports, and more.

Larnach Castle is another must visit while on the Peninsula. A labour of love for the Barker family for over half a century, the castle and large gardens are stunning.

In Port Chalmers you’ll find the Lady Thorn Rhododendron Dell, an old quarry developed into a lush landscape featuring rhododendrons, magnolias, maples, flowering bulbs, with panoramic views over the harbour. Orokonui Ecosanctuary is a 307ha forest surrounded by a pest exclusion fence. With tracks for all abilities, visitors can see up close flora and fauna not easily accessible elsewhere.

In the valley

Halfway up North East Valley, near the world famous Baldwin Street, is Palmers Quarry Gardens. Since 1989 the former quarry site has been landscaped with over 20,000 trees and shrubs. A little further up North Road is the expansive Chingford Park, complete with historic stables, a playgrounds, walks – and a frisbee golf course!

Meet the ducks at the Dunedin Botanic Gardens.
Lan Yuan Dunedin Chinese Garden celebrates Otago’s Chinese influence.
Glenfalloch Garden is another of Otago Peninsula’s many attractions.

tIMe oUt foR fUn

There’s family fun to be had around every corner in Dunedin.

You’ll find plenty of playgrounds, pools, parks, beaches, and other outdoor spaces where excess energy can be burnt.

There are also many indoor attractions, including Tūhura Otago Museum. The kids will love Animal Attic, a treasure trove of over 2000 taxidermied creatures of all descriptions. And the Museum’s Tūhura Otago Community Trust Science Centre is the biggest of its kind in New Zealand, with a Tropical Forest, the Beautiful Science Gallery, and Perpetual Guardian Planetarium.

Toitū Otago Settlers Museum is another must-visit, telling the story of the people of Dunedin and the surrounding area. There are 14 galleries, with many interactive displays.

After exploring the cultural centres of the city, and enjoying the local cafes and restaurants, it's time for some outdoor time at one of Dunedin’s playgrounds.

Playing around

Marlow Park

Known as the Dinosaur Park thanks to its iconic slide, this St Kilda beachside playground has been loved by generations of kids.

Memorial Park

A huge playground in Mosgiel with something for everyone. A triple slide fortress, a skate park, great climbing, and a secure space for the very little ones.

Botanic Gardens

A smallish, safe playground for all ages, with much more besides. There’s open space for picnics and running around, ducks to be fed, the Winter Garden to marvel at.

Bayfield Park

Besides the Andersons Bay Inlet this is the perfect sunny day picnic spot. The kids can enjoy slides, swings, see-saws, a spiderweb net, tunnels, and the rocktopus.

Market Reserve

Set well back from Princes St, you’ll find swings, a fort, seesaws, a jungle-gym, and Dunedin's first balance park. There are also benches for a quiet picnic lunch.

DUNEDIN BOTANIC GARDEN

A

Six Star Garden

The Dunedin Botanic Garden has 30 tranquil hectares where you can hear native birdsong while you explore the plant collections or soak up the expansive views.

Open every day from dawn until dusk. Free entry. For information, call 03 477 4000.

Corner of Great King Street and Opoho Road. www.dunedinbotanicgarden.co.nz

Memorial Park playground in Mosgiel.
Fun at Tūhura Otago Museum.

sURf’s UP

Surrounded by dramatic coastlines, Dunedin has many wild beaches. But there’s also family friendly options for relatively safe swimming.

• St Clair and St Kilda

An easy journey from the centre of town, St Clair and St Kilda face the Pacific Ocean. But they’re both favoured swimming spots, with surf patrols during the warmer months. It’s also a mecca for surfers, with one of the most consistent breaks in New Zealand.

• Brighton

Perfect for a relaxed day trip is Brighton Beach, set by a charming seaside village 20km from Dunedin. The surf lifesaver patrolled beach may be small, but there’s plenty of space for the kids to run around, and the creek is great for smaller swimmers and paddlers.

• Warrington

Here you’ll find another gorgeous sandy beach with its own surf life saving club over summer. A relatively safe and sheltered spot, the beach offers great conditions for swimmers and beginner surfers. There’s a playground and picnic area at the Warrington Domain.

• Long Beach

A 2.4km stretch of soft white sand and fairly calm surf half-an-hour from Dunedin - what’s not to like?

Long Beach is an absolute gem, with plenty of space for a picnic, and good swimming even though there are no life savers on patrol.

• Macandrew Bay

On the harbour side of Otago Peninsula, Macandrew Bay has all you need for a perfect family outing. The small beach is the safest around, shallow and sheltered. It’s a 15-minute drive from the centre of Dunedin, and there’s a shared cycle path the whole way.

Macandrew Bay has a calm, family-friendly beach. (Photo: DunedinNZ)
St Kilda Beach in summer. (Photo: DunedinNZ)
Brighton offers some great surf, and a good drive. (Photo: DunedinNZ)

Orokonui Ecosanctuary is home to birdlife, reptiles, and plants.

(Photo: Dunedin NZ)

Dunedin’s natural environment makes it the wildlife capital of New Zealand, with an amazing variety of habitats and landscapes.

WILD tHIngs

The coastline and peninsula are a seabird spotters’ paradise. Albatross, penguins, shags, spoonbills, oystercatchers, giant petrels, and sooty shearwaters all make their home here.

Sightings of orca and dolphins are common in the harbour, and there have been occasional visits from the Southern Right Whale, which was once on the brink of extinction.

Fur seals are in abundance around the rocky coastal outcrops, and one of the world’s rarest sea lionsHooker’s - can be seen sunbathing on many of the sandy beaches surrounding the city. They are protective of their patch though, so

make sure to stay at least 20 metres away.

Dunedin is home to the only mainland breeding colony of albatross anywhere in the world. The Northern Royal Albatross/Toroa can be seen at the Royal Albatross Centre at the end of Otago Peninsula. You can take a guided tour to watch the antics of these majestic seabirds in their natural environment.

Everyone falls in love with the Yellow-eyed Penguin/Hoiho, and the world’s smallest penguin, the Little Blue Penguin/Kororā. Sightings of these penguins are usually at dusk when they scurry back from the sea to their nests. The best safe viewing

of Hoiho is at Sandfly Bay or on a Penguin Place tour, while Kororā can be viewed from a platform just below the Royal Albatross Centre. Both are endangered species and must be given space.

On the hills above the other side of Otago Harbour is the predator-free Orokonui Ecosanctuary. This is home to some of the world’s most fascinating and rare forest birds, reptiles, and plants. You can wander through the native forest with or without a guide, and may see takahē, tuatara, Otago skinks, kaka, bellbirds, and tui. If you really want to get up close and personal with New Zealand’s native birds, this is the place to be.

Otago Peninsula was once described as ‘‘the finest example of eco-tourism in the world’’ by the late botanist David Bellamy.

otAgo PenInsULA

- the perfect daytrip

World famous for its wildlife reserves, the 20km long peninsula features the only mainland Northern Royal Albatross colony on the planet. It’s also home to the world’s rarest penguin, the yellow-eyed penguin, as well as populations of the New Zealand sea lion, New Zealand fur seals, and little blue penguins.

Whether you take the low road or the high road on the Peninsula, there’s always plenty to discover.

Portobello Road follows the foreshore through harbourside communities passing through picturesque Macandrew Bay and Portobello - both perfect spots for a picnic.

Eventually you’ll reach the wildlife splendor of Taiaroa Head, home to the Royal Albatross Centre, plus Fort Taiaroa and its amazing Armstrong disappearing gun. Highcliff Road offers a commanding view, and will lead you to New Zealand’s only castle. Larnach Castle has been one family’s restoration project for over 50 years now, and is full of colonial antiques and surrounded by a Garden of International Significance. There are numerous ways to access the stunning Otago Peninsula, including hiring a car, using the superb cycleways, or taking one of the many tours on offer.

Onwards to Victory!

One of the wilder stretches of sand around Dunedin is Otago Peninsula’s Victory Beach. Named for the Otago Gold Rush era steamer SS Victory that was wrecked here in 1861, access is via a two kilometre walk through Okia Reserve. This large flat area was farmed for a century, and is now being regenerated. You’ll also walk between the impressive Pyramids, two large basalt columns, before arriving on the Peninsula’s longest beach.

Larnach Castle is a highlight of any Dunedin visit. (Photo: DunedinNZ)
Taiaroa Head is home to the Royal Albatross Centre. (Photo: DunedinNZ)
Take the opportunity to see Yellow Eyed Penguins at the Penguin Place.
(Photo: DunedinNZ)
(Photo: DunedinNZ)

WALKs on tHe

MILD sIDe

Both around town and on the city fringes, Dunedin boasts walks to suit all ages, abilities, and interests.

You’ll find great walks in every direction - the middle of the city, the town belt, and around the hills and beaches.

In the Octagon you can start with a short stroll around the plaques commemorating Dunedin’s literary and Olympics achievements. Then take in a longer walk around some of the city’s historical and architectural highlights, or perhaps even the Street Art Trail (see sidebar).

The Dunedin Town Belt has been preserved since the early days of European settlement, and offers plenty of recreational possibilities. You can explore from any point, or attempt to traverse its entirety from the Oval to the Dunedin Botanic Gardens.

Ross Creek, off Burma Road, is a short and picturesque wander that weaves through native bush and exotic forest around one of New Zealand’s oldest reservoirs. The family-friendly loop is popular with walkers, joggers, and the local birdlife.

The Pineapple Track leads to the top of Flagstaff, which has stunning views over the city and the Taieri Plain when the weather allows. From Booth Road you’ll get a real workout on the climb, or you can begin on Whare Flat Road, for a short and steep hike. You can drive to the top of Mount Cargill for superb 360-degree views. And if you are feeling more adventurous, you can follow the relatively easy tracks through the bush from Bethune’s Gully. A detour to the basalt columns of the Organ Pipes is compulsory.

The Sandymount Track on Otago Peninsula offers great views of Hoopers Inlet and Allans Beach. The hour-long walk has ups and downs through farmland, to a series of viewpoints.

Victory Beach is one of the more deserted beaches on the peninsula - apart from the abundant wildlife. Allow a couple of hours, as there’s a trek across farmland and the Okia Reserve - taking in the distinctively shaped Pyramids en route.

The Organ Pipes on Mt Cargill. (Photo: Dunedin NZ)
Dunedin’s Town Belt is great to explore on foot. (Photo: Dunedin NZ)

ARt&soUL

Take a magical mystery tour of Dunedin’s inner-city streets and alleyways with the captivating Street Art Trail.

Here you’ll find the creations of both local and international artists exploding across the facades of many buildings in an eye-popping display of colour and texture. To begin your Dunedin Street Art Trail walk, use the online map at dunedinstreetart.

Explore the colour and vibrancy that’s on offer with the Dunedin Street Art Trail.

Street Art charitable trust in 2014. Belgian artist ROA’s giant tuatara on Bath Street captured the population’s imagination, and more street art was demanded. Now there are well over 30 works around the inner-city, and even more to be seen out around the suburbs. The majority of the works on the Dunedin Street Art Trail are on the southern side of the city centre, with many to be seen

creativity.

The Street Art Trail reflects many of Dunedin’s connections with the world, both historical and contemporary. Phlegm from the UK has created a mythical creature resembling a kakapo, and a giant fish swallowing aspects of the city’s past - Māori waka, and European sailing ships. Other international artist include

DAWnIng of A neW eRA

Given the All Blacks’ recent form against the Springboks, it’s timely to look back on the first test of 1994.

‘‘Dunedin is magic. It was the whole crowd, the whole city.’’

Those were the words of Earle Kirton, the assistant All Black coach, after they’d vanquished the Springboks at Carisbrook.

It was July 1994, and the old foes hadn’t met on New Zealand soil since the incendiary 1981 tour that had virtually put the country into a state of civil war.

After the abolition of Apartheid, the All Blacks had visited South Africa for one test in 1992 - a narrow victory in Johannesburg. Two years later the Springboks undertook an extensive New Zealand tour, taking in three tests and 11 provincial matches. The first test in Dunedin on Saturday, July 9 was a highly anticipated event in the city, with an impressive tent village at Bathgate Park catering to thousands of people before and after the match. In fine weather, a crowd of over 41,000 packed into the aging Carisbrook Stadium during the mid-afternoon, with a healthy proportion of students helping to fill the terraces.

The Springboks’ re-entry into the arena of international rugby hadn’t been overly smooth, with mixed results against both England and Australia.

Meanwhile, the All Blacks’ form was also lacking, having just lost a home series to the French. They and coach Laurie Mains were under some pressure to perform. Before the first test, captain Sean Fitzpatrick even told the team it was a case of winning or being issued with razor blades.

As it turned out, the 1994 Springboks gained the unwanted reputation as the worst South African side to visit New Zealand. They drew the third test in Auckland, and lost to Otago later in July, while winning all the other provincial matches.

There were several factors that led to the tour not going down as a classic, but that takes none off the first test. Rugby hysteria was peaking in the region due to the strong Otago side of the time, which included All Blacks Jeff Wilson, Arran Pene, John Timu, Stephen Bachop, and Stu Forster. Dunedin’s huge population of scarfies

(students) also regularly offered noise and colour at Carisbrook. They certainly got behind the All Blacks for an encounter referred to as ‘‘the Battle of the ’Brook’’.

‘‘It was no place for the fainthearted in what became an almost gladiatorial atmosphere as players from both sides fought - often quite literally - for the ascendancy,’’ reported Brent Edwards of the Otago Daily Times.

All Black lock Ian Jones went off with a fractured cheekbone early, and there were various other incidents including Fitzpatrick being stomped. Springbok indiscipline contributed significantly to the final score, with Shane Howarth kicking five penalties in the All Blacks’ 22-14 victory.

Winger John Kirwan, who’d scored their only try, was quick to praise the contribution the crowd had made.

‘‘It was a great day, a great crowd, a great result,’’ he enthused. ‘‘The crowd was just awesome, fantastic. You could almost feel them willing you on.’’

The 1994 Springboks battling with the All Blacks at Carisbrook. (Photo: Otago Daily Times)

WeLL PLAyeD, sPoRt

Sport is

a vital part of the cultural tapestry of Dunedin, with the city having been home to many great sportspeopleand moments.

The history of the city is interwoven with sport, and Dunedin has always punched above its weight in that arena.

As far back as 1864 an English cricket team played in Dunedin, as part of a festival that also included New Zealand’s inaugural first class cricket match.

Unsurprisingly, that was a clash between Otago and Canterbury - a fixture that has become one of this country’s most bitter sporting

Super Rugby triumph remains fresh in the memory.

Although the now defunct Carisbrook stadium was a rugby and cricket venue, just over a century ago New Zealand played its first football international there. More recently, in 2023 the roofed Forsyth Barr Stadium hosted six FIFA Women’s World Cup matches. Netball and basketball are also big in Dunedin. The Southern Steel play some home games at the Edgar

something to players of all abilities. Golfers including Seve Ballesteros, Arnold Palmer, Gary Player, and Sir Bob Charles have graced their fairways.

Cycling is an increasingly popular pastime in Dunedin. As well as gentle cycle trails including the Harbour circuit, there’s a network of excellent mountain bike tracks around the hills.

Being surrounded by beaches with superb breaks means that the city is a hub for surfers. The whole southern coastline stretching down to the Catlins offers amazing surfing opportunities for a range of abilities.

The Dunedin Railway Station is home to the excellent New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame. Opened in 1999, it is a shrine to the many sporting successes that this country has enjoyed over the decades.

The University of Otago Oval hosts international cricket.
(Photo: DunedinNZ)
(Photo: DunedinNZ)
The 2024 test match between the All Blacks and Argentina at Forsyth Barr Stadium.

ALWAys on coURse

Dunedin’s golf courses have something for everyone, whether you’re a pro or just enjoying a relaxing day on the green.

• Golfing hardware & accessories

• Indoor driving range with launch monitor

• New Zealand golf accessories & souvenirs

• Customer carparking

• 5 mins walk from Octagon

There are some amazing golfing locations around the city, with options for players of all abilities.

With the coast providing a backdrop, the seaside links offer spectacular ocean views.

But no doubt the top spot in Dunedin is the Otago Golf Club, the earliest such organisation in New Zealand having been founded in 1871.

It was in 1896 that the club moved to Balmacewan, a hilltop spot just three kilometres from the central city.

The Otago Golf Club has since been host to

many of the world’s top golfers, including Gary Player, Arnold Palmer, Peter Thomson, and New Zealanders Michael Campbell and Sir Bob Charles.

While golfers can walk in the footsteps of legends both there and at other Dunedin courses, there are also options for those seeking a bit of fun.

There are various places to play mini-golf around the city. One of the best is at Wal’s Plant and Fun Land near Mosgiel, which offers 18-holes, requiring around 45 minutes to complete. It also offers other entertainment and a cafe.

Come and play at the oldest golf club in the Southern Hemisphere established in 1871 - the historic Balmacewen course, which has hosted New Zealand Amateur and Open Championships. The club is open to visitors seven days a week, with a fully stocked golf shop, bar and café. Green fee players welcome, club hire and cart hire available.

Arnold Palmer playing at Balmacewen in 1966.
(Photo Evening Star)
(Photo Evening Star)

cycLe of LIfe

Te Aka Ōtākou allows cyclists to ‘Cycle the Loop’ from Port Chalmers to Portobello (and beyond). This is approximately 32km, so allow at least two hours.

To complete the loop, make a ferry crossing on the Port to Port service.

Dunedin is also a mountain biking mecca, with many kilometres of custom designed track to be found on the hills surrounding the city. These include the awesome Signal Hill Reserve, with a world class network of trails for beginner, intermediate, advanced, and expert riders. The Big Easy offers a fairly relaxed route uphill, while the more recent Easy Down is a great downhill beginner track.

Mountain Biking Otago has also developed excellent tracks at Wakari Creek, Whare Flat, Bethune’s Gully, Nicols Creek, and Swampy Summit.

There are plenty of other great rides around Dunedin, with options for all abilities. The high road on Otago Peninsula offers some incredible views of the harbour and the coast.

Further afield there are world-class cycling trails, including the famous Central Otago Rail Trail.

And for the beginner, the Marlow Park at St Kilda has an excellent bike park for learning the rules of the road.

Cycling at St Clair Beach at sunrise.
(Photo: Geoff Marks)
Signal Hill offers mountain biking for all abilities.
(Photo: DunedinNZ)
(Photo: DunedinNZ)

booK yoUR

DUneDIn DIRectLy MoteL

315 Euro

315-319 George St / 03 477 9929 stay@eurodunedin.co.nz www.eurodunedin.co.nz

538 Great King Motel 538 Great King St / 03 477 7983 stay@greatkingmotel.co.nz www.greatkingmotel.co.n

755 Regal Court

755 George St / 03 477 7729 stay@755regalcourtmotel.co.nz www.755regalcourtmotel.co.nz

858 George St 858 George St / 03 4740047 reservations@858georgestreetmotel.co.nz www.858georgestreetmotel.co.nz

ALCALA MOTEL

Classic Spanish style motel

Centrally located large studio, one bedroom, family and two bedroom units. Located close to university, polytechnic, and tertiary halls of residence, hospital and CBD approx. 20 min walk to Forsyth Barr Stadium. Several restaurants and bars within easy walking distance 704 George Street, Dunedin 0800 503883 bookings@alcalamotorlodge.co.nz

Alexis Motor Lodge 475 George St / 03 471 7268 stay@alexis.co.n www.alexis.co.nz

Alhambra Oaks 588 Great King St / 03 477 7735 info@alhambraoaks.co.nz www.alhambraoaks.co.nz

Allan Court 590 George St / 03 477 7526 stay@allancourt.co.nz www.allancourt.co.n

Amross 660 George St / 03 471 8924 amrossmotel@callplus.net.nz www.amrossmotel.co.nz

Aria on Bank

42-46 Bank Street / 03 473 1188 stay@ariaonbank.co.nz www.ariaonbank.co.nz

Aurora on George 678 George St / 03 477 7984 stay@auroradunedin.co.nz www.auroradunedin.co.nz

Beechwood 842 George St / 03 477 4272 info@beechwood.co.nz www.motel-accommodation-dunedin.co.nz

Bella Vista Dunedin 704 Great King St / 03 477 2232 reservations@bellavistadunedin.co.nz www.bellavista.co.nz

BLUESTONE ON GEORGE

Enjoy the relaxing ambience of this modern boutique accommodation. Tastefullydecorated rooms, all with balconies or patios. Licensed guest lounge and plentiful outdoor seating as well as a manicured garden. Walk to many fabulous local dining options, cafes, bars, the main shopping area and the city’s attractions. 571 George St / 03 477 9201 stay@bluestonedunedin.co.nz www.bluestonedunedin.co.nz

CABLE COURT MOTEL

Modern and warm, we are centrally located and within a short walk to the vibrant city centre, close to restaurants, bars, university, hospital, supermarket, Botanic Gardens and a short drive to Baldwin Street 833 Cumberland St Nth / 03 477 3525 cablecourt@ilt.co.nz www.cablecourt.co.nz

Commodore Motel

932 Cumberland St Nth / 03 477 7766 info@commodoremotel.co.nz www.commodoremotel.co.nz

Cumberland Motel

821 Cumberland St Nth / 03 477 1321 cumberland.motel@xtra.co.nz www.cumberlandmotel.co.n

Dunedin Motel + Villas 624 George St / 03 477 7692 staydunedin@xtra.co.nz www.dunedinmotels.co.nz

George Street Motel Apartments 575 George St / 03 477 9333 info@georgestreetmotel.co.nz www.georgestreetmotel.co.nz

Garden Motel 958 George St / 03 477 8251 info@gardenmotel.co.nz www.gardenmotel.co.nz

Highland House 1003 George St / 03 477 2665 dunedinbookings@gmail.com

Owens Motel 745 George St / 03 477 7156 owensmotel@xtra.co.nz www.owensmotel.nz

Sahara Motels 619 George St / 03 477 6662 info@dunedin-accommodation.co.nz www.dunedin-accommodation.co.nz

Woodlands Motels and Apartments 594 Great King St / 03 477 0270 woodlandsvillage@xtra.co.nz www.motel594.co.nz

97 Motel Moray

97 Moray Place / 03 477 2050 info@97motel.co.nz www.97motel.co.nz

Dunedin Palms Motel

185 High Street / 03 477 8293 stay@dunedinpalmsmotel.co.nz www.dunedinpalmsmotel.co.nz

Law Courts Hotel

Cnr Cumberland & Stuart Sts 03 477 8036 admin@lawcourtshotel.co.nz www.lawcourtshotel.co.nz

Motel on Carroll

10 Carroll St / 027 217 9019 brian@moteloncarroll.co.nz www.moteloncarroll.co.nz

Motel on York

47 York Place / 03 477 6120 info@motelonyork.co.nz www.motelonyork.co.nz

Roslyn Apartments

23 City Rd, Roslyn / 03 477 6777 roslynapartments@xtra.co.nz www.roslynapartments.co.nz

555 Dunedin

555 Anderson Bay Road / 03 455 5779 stay@bwdunedin.co.nz

Adrian Motels

101 Queens Drive / 03 455 2009 adrianmotel@xtra.co.nz www.adrianmotel.co.nz

Bayfield Motel and Apartments

210 Musselburgh Rise / 03 455 0756 info@bayfieldmotel.co.nz www.bayfieldmotel.co.nz

Carisbrook Motel

169 South Road / 03 455 2167 carism@xtra.co.nz www.carisbrook-motel.co.nz

soUtH DUneDIn, st cLAIR

Beachfront apartments. Local cafes, restaurants and boutiques. Minutes away from central city. Various apartments for corporates, families and groups

14 Esplanade / 03 456 5000 bookings@esplanade.co.nz www.esplanade.co.nz

Dunedin Holiday Park 41 Victoria Rd / 03 455 4690 office@dunedinholidaypark.co.nz www.dunedinholidaypark.co.nz

MAJESTIC MANSIONS

APARTMENTS @ ST CLAIR

Located just metres from the beach, and minutes from the heart of Dunedin city. Our serviced one and two-bedroom apartments are ideal for short and medium-term stays, for corporates, families and groups. 15 Bedford Street, St Clair 03 456 5000 bookings@majesticmansions.co.nz www.majesticmansions.co.nz

Bella Vista Mosgiel 85 Gordon Road, Mosgiel / 03 484 7258 stay@bellavistamosgiel.co.nz www.bellavistamotels.co.nz

Bonnie Knights Motel 18-20 Quarry Rd, Mosgiel / 03 489 2415 stay@bonnieknights.co.nz www.bonnieknights.co.nz

Mosgiel Regency Motel 50 Gordon Road, Mosgiel / 03 489 4711 mosgiel.regency@xtra.co.nz www.mosgielregency.co.nz

Portobello Motel 10 Harington Point Road / 03 478 0155 portobellomotels@xtra.co.nz www.portobellomotels.com

Longbourne Lodge Motel

100 School Road South, Mosgiel / 03 489 5701 longbourne.lodge@xtra.co.nz www.longbournelodge.co.nz www.555onbayview.co.nz

ESPLANADE APARTMENTS

gRoWn UP WRong

In

February

it’ll be 60 years since a youthful Rolling Stones visited Dunedin.

The city had witnessed Beatlemania in June 1964, but the Rolling Stones didn’t bring quite the same hysteria.

Their visit to Dunedin on February 3, 1965 was part of the Far East Tour. The Stones’ first trip to these parts featured 36 shows across Australia, New Zealand, and Singapore.

Joining them on a bill dubbed Big Beat ‘65 were Roy Orbison, The New Beats, and New Zealand’s own Ray Columbus and the Invaders.

It was a big early highlight in the career of the locals, who had scored a number one hit across the Tasman in late 1964 with She’s A Mod

“We were the really loud group at the front, and the Stones were the really loud group at the back,” Columbus said. “It was just such a buzz. I became really good friends with the late Brian Jones, and we got on great with Bill Wyman too. We were all sort of fashionistas.

”Having performed in Sydney, Brisbane, and Melbourne, the tour’s first New Zealand stop was in the Invaders’ home town of Christchurch on February 1.

The next day there were two shows in Invercargill. Legend has it that most of the audience were there to see Orbison, and had little appreciation for the Stones.

As a result, Keith Richard named the city ‘the arsehole of the world’. Unfortunately for Dunedin,when the guitarist penned an autobiography in 2010, he appeared to mix up the two cities, while doubling down.

“My God, there are some black holes… Dunedin, for instance…” Keef wrote.

On February 3, the four acts performed two shows at the Dunedin Town Hall at 6pm and 8.30pm.

The late Neil Collins was a Dunedin broadcaster at the time, and had met The Beatles on their 1964 visit. He was the compeer for the Big Beat ‘65 shows, and also met the Rolling Stones.

“It was very exciting,” he recalled. “They were knocking out whatever they had out up to 1965. And they were given the tag of the scruffier of the two acts, and were expected to live up to that.”

With nearly 3000 people packed into the Town Hall for the shows, there was a line of police between the audience and the stage.

Mick Jagger was annoyed when someone threw jelly beans at him from the balcony. But the real drama came when the contracted sound operator became agitated at Jagger’s onstage antics.

He told Collins that was going to turn the sound off. Knowing a riot would ensue, the compeer alerted the police.

“(The inspector) ran after him and reached him as he was about to open the door of the soundbooth,” Collins said. “‘Step back’ he ordered. ‘Leave that sound alone!’”

After the shows, he walked with the performers from the Town Hall to the Sunset Strip club on Rattray Street.

Collins said they were easy to talk to, and had a good time. He was happy to have a photo taken with the Stones.

“It was a good rocky night,” he said. “They were quite a contrast to Roy Orbison who was fantastic also. It was a magic night.”

The Rolling Stones arriving at Dunedin Airport in February 1965
Neil Collins (second from right) with the Rolling Stones. (Photo: Supplied)

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