Personal Care News - 1/17

01/17

Personal Care News

Content 1 RevivylTM boosts body skin rejuvenation

2 European produced MCT oil 3 Beautiful skin starts with DavosLife E3

5 The ultimate 7 in 1 hair beauty enhancer

6 Stepan liberates creativity & celebrates sensoriality

6 Stepan product highlights 7 New active lip make-up formulation

7 Coming up: SEPAWA 2017 8 Alsiano Household & Personal Care Team

RevivylTM boosts body skin rejuvenation Givaudan Active Beauty launches RevivylTM, the very first holistic skin renewal accelerator supported by metagenomic analysis and stem cell reseach At the age of 50, your skin needs 44% more time to renew itself than in your twenties! What if cosmetic science could help you boost your whole body skin rejuvenation in a holistic way?

Givaudan Active Beauty’s Research & Development department has delved deeper into the intimate mechanisms of skin renewal: from its stem cells activation to its ultimate superficial layer, called the Stratum Microbium™. By cracking the secrets of this complex regeneration cycle and its delicate balance, these skin biology experts have apprehended the fact that this process needs sequential activation from bottom to top as well as strong protection of the natural bal-

ance of skin microbiota to maintain skin health and beauty.

By combining their metagenomic pioneering capability and their exclusive skills in bio-guided plant fractionation, Active Beauty skin experts have been able to develop the first active cosmetic ingredient dedicated to accelerate the entire skin regeneration process. Recovered from Orobanche rapum, a unique European chlorophyll-free plant, Revivyl™ has been scientifically designed to deliver targeted biological actions from the lower to the higher layers of the epidermis.

Evaluated through exhaustive in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies, Revivyl™ >>

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>> has demonstrated 6 holistic effects

on the natural skin renewal cycle: 1. Protection of epidermal stem cells Up to +171%* surviving expression 2. Reactivation of cellular metabolism Up to +85%** Ki67 activation 3. Stimulation of epidermal cell differentiation Up to +249%** filaggrin, +489% involucrin, +414% loricrin 4. Reinforcement of skin barrier Up to +36%** ceramides 5. Reactivation of natural exfoliation Up to +56%** exfoliation 6. Active protection of skin microflora *in vitro test - **ex vivo test

Four full clinical studies versus placebo using the latest technologies (Raman

spectroscopy, Optical Coherence Tomography, Diagnoskin, metagenomic analysis and silicone replica) have proven the exceptional consumers’ benefits of Revivyl™ for face and body applications: in just 2-4 weeks, the skin barrier is reinforced (up to +36% water gain), exfoliation is reactivated (up to +244%), skin microflora is protected, and skin surface is smoothed with up to -30% decrease in wrinkles number.

Cyrille Jarrin, Ph.D. researcher specialised in skin microbiome bioinformatic analysis, says: “In view of the scientific evidence of the skin microbiota and health relationship, it is now crucial to ensure that active ingredients have benefits for our skin flora.

Revivyl™ shows unique properties to protect skin microbiota.

We analysed over 24 billons pieces of DNA information from volunteers’ microbiota and discovered that this ingredient is not only able to trigger skin stem cells, but also to protect the global microbiota population and even reducing unwanted pathogen species. This is unique in our industry and will create a real added value for consumers”.

Revivyl™ is a multifunctional active ingredient, water soluble, safe and from a natural source, easy to formulate in all skin or body care formulas. By reactivating the production of a new skin, Revivyl™ is answering one of the expectations of the most consumers: “I want to look and feel better with a younger skin naturally”.

European produced MCT oil KLK-Oleo MCT oil now with short delivery time We are pleased to inform that we can now supply KLK Oleo MCT oil produced at their European plant. This enables us to offer this product with short delivery time and yet at an attractive price.

and glycerine to derivatives such as fatty alcohols, fatty esters, MCTs, soap and methyl ester sulphonate (MES). Several of KLK OIeo’s fatty acids and EP glycerine are Ecocert approved.

KLK Oleo is a global oleochemical company with production locations in Malaysia, China and Germany. KLK Oleo products range from fatty acids

All KLK Oleo production sites are RSPO certified and the company offers several Mass Balance and Segregated products.

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Beautiful skin starts with DavosLife E3 Tocotrienol is a more potent form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. DavosLife E3 has the highest concentration of mixed tocotrienols and a-tocopherol available in the markets

By Dr Sharon Ling & Dr Koh Yew Ming The increasing demand for cosmetic products raises awareness of the need for natural, safe and effective ingredients with multi-functional potential. Similarly, the obsession with a youthful appearance has become commonplace, and aging and sundamaged skin is fast becoming a dermatologic concern.

For decades, vitamin E has been wellknown for its multi-usage benefit. It is an antioxidant with healing and reparative properties that help to delay skin aging and protect cellular membranes against free radical-induced damage. Numerous studies have, however, found that Tocotrienol, a more potent form of vitamin E occurring in certain plant fruits/seeds such as palm fruits (Elaeis guineensis), exhibits superior antioxidant activity compared to the common form of vitamin E, Tocopherol. Tocotrienol’s distinct chemical structure provides the unique biochemical properties responsible for providing skin health benefits beyond antioxidation. This distinct chemical structure enables its cellular uptake in biological systems 70 times higher than α-Tocopherol1.

Tocotrienol has excellent antioxidation activity in cells up to 60 times higher

than Tocopherol3 providing the ability to help protect the skin from aging and UV-induced damage caused by constant and prolonged sun exposure.

Tocotrienols possess potent photoprotective effects Tocotrienols have been shown to provide photoprotective effects to UV irradiation and the skin reactions (redness, swelling and itchiness) are significantly reduced. Formulations with DavosLife E3 exhibited a radical skin factor (RSF) of 4.15. The RSF measures a substance’s ability to reduce free radicals generated in the

Tocotrienols enhance wound healing DavosLife E3 provides skin health benefits that go beyond its established antioxidation properties

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skin during UV exposure. An RSF of 4.15 suggests that Tocotrienols formulations reduce free radical production in the skin resulting from exposure to the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays by 76%2. Our research showed that topical application of DavosLife E3 after UV exposure can reduce the severity of redness to a level comparable to an over-thecounter anti-inflammatory gel2.

Tocotrienols enhance wound healing Fibroblasts are critical in supporting normal wound healing. They are involved in breaking down the fibrin >>

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Antioxidant Anti-inflammation Anti-aging Depigmentation Sun protection

Prevent DNA damage Skin repair

Skin benefits of DavosLife E3 >> clot and replacing it with extra cellu-

lar matrix (ECM) components such as collagen to support the other cells associated with effective wound healing. Tocotrienols trigger the migration of fibroblasts to the wound area suggesting Tocotrienol’s potential role in skin repair and wound healing. The skin repair properties of DavosLife E3 have been investigated using MatTek’s EpiDerm FT in-vitro skin model.

The in-vitro skin was treated topically with 1% α-Tocopherol, DavosLife E3 or control. Our research indicated that after 6 days of treatment, DavosLife E3 stimulates epidermal migration and skin repair more than twice as fast as α-Tocopherol2.

Tocotrienols maintain cellular health Results from pre-clinical studies have shown that Tocotrienols have the ability to prevent cellular aging by reversing the effects of oxidative stress in human diploid fibroblasts (HDF).

In addition, Tocotrienols increased the length of DNA structures called telomeres. Telomeres progressively grow shorter each time a cell divides.

In most cells, telomere length is closely associated with cellular aging: the shorter the telomere, the older the cell4. A randomised, double-blind, placebo-controlled study with 64 human subjects aged 37-78 years old has shown a significant reduction of DNA damage in their blood samples after 3 months of 160 mg daily dose of Tocotrienols. The positive effects continued to the end of the trial at 6 months5. Results from these studies show that Tocotrienols have the potential for maintaining cellular health.

Tocotrienols inhibit skin pigmentation A study has found that Tocotrienols are effective in inhibiting the production of skin pigment, melanin, indicating a potential means for skin lightening. Our research showed Tocotrienols’ ability to promote skin lightening through inhibition of tyrosinase, the key enzyme protein in melanin biosynthesis. In the study, Tocotrienols reduce melanin production by 55% through tyrosinase inhibition that is up to 150 times more potent compared to other skin lightening agents6.

Get to know DavosLife E3, a gift from Mother Nature DavosLife E3 (formerly known as Naturale3) DVL range of products contain a complete spectrum of all Tocotrienol isomers (α-, β-, γ- and δ-) and α-Tocopherol, occurring naturally in an optimal ratio for overall health benefits, not limited to promoting skin health and protection. It is an amber coloured liquid miscible with oil, partially miscible with ethanol and immiscible with water.

DavosLife E3 DVL is highly stable under a wide range of pH conditions and temperature range, which make it ideal for formulation of cosmetic and personal care products. With our proprietary technology, DavosLife E3 DVL 95 has the highest concentration of mixed Tocotrienols and α-Tocopherol available in the market.

It is suitable for skin care applications due to its less intense colour (light yellow) and viscosity.

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Be assured by DavosLife E3

Safety assessment conducted by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that Tocotrienols are safe for use in cosmetics.

DavosLife E3 DVL range of Tocotrienols products has been granted attestation by ECOCERT Greenlife and assessed complying with the COSMOS standard.

Tocotrienols are clinically proven to reduce DNA damage

For scientific information, please visit www.tocotrienolresearch.org or contact Alsiano for further inquiries on DavosLife E3.

References 1. Saito, Y., Yoshida, Y., Nishio, K., Hayakawa, M. & Niki, E. Characterization of cellular uptake and distribution of vitamin E. Ann. N. Y. Acad. Sci.,2004; 1031, 368–75.

2. Davos Life: Data on File.

3. Serbinova E, Kagan V, Han D, Packer L. Free radical recycling and intramembrane mobility in the antioxidant properties of alpha-tocopherol and alpha-tocotrienol. Free Radic Biol Med., 1991, 10(5), 263-75.

4. Makpol S, Abidin AZ, Sairin K, Mazlan M, Top GM, Ngah WZ. Gamma-Tocotrienol prevents oxidative stress-induced telomere shortening in human fibroblasts derived from different aged individuals. Oxid Med Cell Longev, 2010, 3(1), 35-43.

5. Chin SF, Hamid NA, Latiff AA, Zakaria Z, Mazlan M, Yusof YA, Karim AA, Ibahim J, Hamid Z, Ngah WZ. Reduction of DNA damage in older healthy adults by Tri E Tocotrienol supplementation. Nutrition, 2008, 24(1), 1–10.

6. Yap WN, Zaiden N, Xu CH, Chen A, Ong S, Teo V, Yap YL. Gamma- and delta-tocotrienols inhibit skin melanin synthesis by suppressing constitutive and UV-induced tyrosinase activation. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res., 2010, 23(5), 688-92.

Personal Care News 1/17

The ultimate 7 in 1 hair beauty enhancer Givaudan Active Beauty has launched ResistHyal™, a powerful multifunctional and cost effective solution to dull hair Hair is not only a unique personal characteristic; it is also how others view our health and more specifically our beauty. Shiny hair with smooth texture is generally perceived to be appealing, and achieving that requires special attention due to the composition and differing nature of hair.

Givaudan Active Beauty has launched a new patented bio-active ingredient acting on keratin infrastructure and called ResistHyal™ that will revolutionise the hair care market. It also meets consumers’ expectations for multifunctional products. Based on analysis of the growing consumers’ categories such as Millennials, Active Beauty’s research team crafted ResistHyal™ to offer a powerful multifunctional and cost effective solution to dull, coarse hair with 7 unique properties crucial to activating the beauty of one’s hair: 1. Be hydrated Molecular moisture buffer –> hydrate hair up to 189 times.* 2. Keep natural volume Sheathing effect –> up to +48%** thicker cuticle.

3. Get rid of frizz Beta keratin structure protection –> up to +25%* smoothing effect in 80% humidity!

4. Be resistant Tighten cells of the hair cuticle –> down to -65%* less damaged hair follicles.

5. Be protected from pollution Shield pollution particles adhesion –> down to -50%* less adhesion of pollution!

6. Be shiny Flatten cuticle cells for better light reflection –> up to +46%* more glossiness!

7. Be soft Overall improvement of hair texture –> up to +61%** softer.

ResistHyal™ has been designed on the basis of hyaluronic acid water buffering properties. It contains an optimised ratio of low and high molecular weight hyaluronic acids, which create a specific local molecular moisturising film around the hair fibre. *ex vivo test - **clinical test

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New patented bio-active ingredient acting on keratin infrastructure Amandine Scandolera, Cell and Molecular Biology Manager, says: “ResistHyal™ is the result of an enriching collaborative work combining the mastery of the complexity of the formula and the challenge of applying Hyaluronic Acid (HA) in hair care.

Thanks to Active Beauty’s expertise in HA, ResistHyal™ is an open platform to let brands create new innovative end-products & rituals for hair care.

Knowing that 96% of consumers want to continue to use the product after the clinical tests, I would say that is the best reward we could expect”.

ResistHyal™ is China compliant, safe, non-irritating, non-allergenic, and very easy to formulate in all hair care formulas. It will enable cosmetic brands to differentiate themselves on the market by providing performance, combined with natural and multifunctional claims to the consumer.

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Stepan liberates creativity and celebreates sensoriality Wave goodbye to irritating electrolytes and synthetic polymers with Stepan’s new green technology for suspending particles and obtaining clear systems Today’s hygiene formulations get more and more sophisticated, either showing a glamourous look with beads and glitters or being oil-enriched for a skin softer than ever. This poses the challenge of suspending particles of various sizes and obtaining clear systems when needed, but also maintaining the foam quality.

Most options to achieve these performances involve using irritating electrolytes or synthetic polymers.

Stepan product highlights Zoom on selected customer case stories See more Stepan case stories on alsiano.com

However, Stepan’s exclusive new technology is based on a structured surfactant system involving a mild biobased ingredient, Stepan Mild GCC. This innovation consists in provoking an association of the surfactants that forms multi-lamellar vesicles, allowing the suspension of air, solid and oil particles. The achievement of clarity is possible due to the small sized vesicles while the foam volume and quality are even enhanced thanks to Stepan Mild GCC.

Shampoo NINOL CAA Challenge: Achieve clarity and viscosity with a shampoo based on water-insoluble actives and fragrances.

Solution: 1% NINOL CAA in premix with almond oil and fragrance enables the formulator to kill two birds with one stone by leading to a clear and thick formulation.

Strength: Fragrance solubilisation and high viscosity profile with lower salt usage.

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STEPAN-MILD GCC is an ester providing thickening, foam enhancing and solubilising properties.

This green technology is a true passkey to creativity: shower creams with high oil content (up to 50%!), shimmering shampoo, sugar body scrub, clear exfoliating cleansers…anything to provide a richer sensorial experience.

Baby care STEPAN-MILD L3 Challenge: Foam quality and skin feel enhancement in shampoo and shower gel.

Solution: Sensory benefits have been achieved by adding a small amount of L3 to a standard formulation.

Strength: Customisation of existing standard formulation.

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New active lip make-up formulaton Exclusive lip beautification with the new marketing concept S3D® Fascination from Givaudan Active Beauty Whatever the intention at the beginning, applying lip-gloss on the mouth is a decided and strong act. There is something there that touches on being, on desire.

Givaudan Active Beauty has pushed the concept of seduction & hypnotic effect at its zenith through the creation of a ground-breaking and very active make-up formulation: S3D® Fascination.

Featuring PrimalHyal™ Gold, coming from fully sustainable white biotechnology, S3D® Fascination is a deep and long lasting hydrating formula that will beautify your lips instantly.

This exclusive lip-gloss also provides anti-ageing properties as it contains Megassane™, an active ingredient discovered by marine bio-technology, restoring the proteasome activities after UV-exposure. To deliver a waterresistant tex- ture which perfectly covers the lips’ surface, S3D® Fascination includes the Unimer U-151 polymer, also favouring the protecting actions of the sun filter and the dispersion of cherry pigments on the lips. Your lips are hydrated, protected and embellished for a long time.

tion is a very innovative concept because it is a multi-functional bio-active formula enabling new benefits for the final consumer. We crafted a formula for a high covering result with an amazing texture. S3D® Fascination is intense, powerful, sophisticated and delicate at the same time.”

Caroline Reverte, Formulation Project Manager says: “Our new S3D® Fascina-

S3D® Fascination will definitely unveil attractiveness of your lips.

The intensity of its dark cherry colour in addition to the creaminess of the texture and the awesome gourmand fragrance & flavour make this lipgloss a new addictive beauty weapon.

Coming up: SEPAWA 2017 Meet Alsiano and our partners at SEPAWA 2017 in Berlin The annual SEPAWA Congress taking place from 18 till 20 October 2017 in Berlin is the premier event for the detergents/cleansers, cosmetics and perfumery industry in Europe.

With over 130 lectures and presentations and 300 exhibitors, the SEPAWA 7

Congress offers a wealth of information. During SEPAWA you can meet us and the following of our partners: Stepan - stand A108-109 Stepan’s broad product line includes numerous anionics, as well as a variety of non-ionic, cationic and >>

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Alsiano Household & Personal Care Team

Anders Hager

Lene Aarøe Nissen

Per Sigsgaard

Sales Director E: ahg@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0026 M:+45 2618 8545

Area Sales Manager E: lan@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0025 M:+45 2270 1002

Senior Area Sales Manager E: ps@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0071 M: +45 2612 8222

Annette Strarup

Hedvig Åkesson

Signe Mørck

Area sales manager E: ask@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0049 M:+45 2270 1015

Area sales manager E: haa@alsiano.com M:+46 708 155 012

Charlotte Dahl Sales Assistant E: cd@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0051

>> amphoteric surfactants. Stepan also pro-

duces biocides and manufactures other speciality surfactants often custommade to meet individual needs.

KOLB - stand B394-396 Kolb designs and manufactures nonionic surfactants. Their range comprises natural and synthetic fatty alcohol alkoxylates, fatty amine and fatty acids ethoxylates, iso-stearic acid esters and polysorbates.

KLK OLEO - stand B410-412 The global oleochemical producer, KLK OLEO is committed to supplying

QA Manager E: slh@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0017 M:+45 4071 8338

Malene Rask Harder Sales Assistant E: mrh@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0007

Sales Assistant E: cn@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0008

sustainable ingredients. They offer a wide range of fatty acids and glycerine of which several are Ecocert approved.

Givaudan Active Beauty - stand A207 Givaudan Active Beauty offers an extensive portfolio of innovative active cosmetic ingredients. The company offers award-winning products for an expanded range of benefits including anti-ageing, self-tanning, soothing, hydrating, cooling, etc. Their cuttingedge technologies draw on science and nature to create high-performing molecules and functional agents, including customised carrier systems.

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Business Manager, Industry E: janl@alsiano.com M: +46 708 866 563

Susse Liff Hansen

Sales Assistant E: sm@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0042

Charlotte Nommesen

Jan Lindahl

Publisher: Alsiano A/S Circulation: 450 copies Editor-in-chief: Lene Aa. Nissen Coordinator, text, layout: Dorthe Andersson Personal Care News is published twice a year and distributed to customers and other interested parties. Reproduction of articles requires prior consent form the author. Alsiano is not responsible for the content of articles written by external authors.

ICL/BK Giulini - stand B322-323 ICL/BK Giulini is a leading supplier of phosphates and phosphate specialities. ICL is a globally active company with a wide range of products and services within various markets.

Ugur Seluloz Kimya - stand A219 Ugur specialises in development and production of different types of CMC and PAC, and as per single customer requirements. RHEOLON® is one of their trade names. The product comes with high purity levels and is used in different industries such as detergent and cosmetics.