Household & Personal Care News

Household & Personal Care No. 1 • March 2014

Contents Coming up: in-cosmetics 2014....................1 KLK invests to expand state-of-the-art facility in Germany..................................2 SIPERNAT® silica particles for exfoliants as alternative to PE beads..............................3 GreenbentinTM , a step towards the future..................5 Green solutions for your products...................................6 The effects of water-soluble phosphates in cosmetic emulsions: complexation........7 The Alsiano Household & Personal care team . ...............8

Alsiano

Coming up: in-cosmetics 2014 Meet our suppliers at in-cosmetics in Hamburg, which will also offer marketing trend sessions, innovation seminar and much more More than 600 exhibitors are preparing to display innovative ingredients, launch new products and showcase major developments within the personal care industry at in-cosmetics 2014 taking place from 1-3 April in Hamburg.

Comprehensive programme The extensive educational programme at in-cosmetics will include over 20 marketing trends sessions with speakers discussing the industry’s hot topics such as haircare, dermatology and professional skincare.

Furthermore, the 2014 event has more workshops than ever before and will also this year feature an innovation seminar and “Fragrance in Cosmetics” and “Testing and Regulation” zones.

Meet our suppliers This year, the following of our suppliers will exhibit at in-cosmetics:

Publisher: Alsiano A/S Circulation: 350 copies Editor-in-chief: Lene Aarøe Nissen Coordinator, text, lay-out: Dorthe Andersson Household & Personal Care News is published twice a year and distributed to customers and other interested parties.

Reproduction of articles appearing in Household & Personal Care News requires prior consent of the author. Alsiano is not responsible for the content of articles written by external authors.

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BK Giulini - 3H16 BK Giulini, one of the leading producers of antiperspirant actives with production sites in Germany and China,offers standard and high effective solutions and powder grades of Aluminium Chlorohydrate - ALOXICOLL® - and Aluminium Zirconium Complexes - ZIRKONAL®, Gilugel® superior rheological additive for modern W/O emulsions, Gilumasc® high quality thermo modelage.

Evonik - 4F60 Evonik’s Silica Business Line will highlight the benefits of its hydrated silica products, SIPERNAT® 2200 and SIPERNAT® 22 – eco-friendly abrasive particles in exfoliant body and face cleansers as replacement for PE beads (see also p. 3). SIPERNAT® specialty silica and AEROSIL® fumed silica from Evonik can be used as effective gelling agents, flow aids, adsorbents, carriers and suspending agents. (continues on page 2 >>)

Household & Personal Care News Food News

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KLK invests to expand state-of-the-art facility in Germany The leading manufacturer of oleochemicals upgrades the production in capacity, logistics and technology

By KLK Oleo KLK’s production facility in Emmerich, Germany, has been an oleochemical plant since 1911. It was here that Dr. Normann invented the hardening of fats in that same year. Now KLK has invested to upgrade the production both in capacity, logistics and technology.

KLK Emmerich processes vegetable oils to produce fatty acids and glycerine for the European market and for customers around the world.

Fractions from Caprylic Acid (C8) to Behenic acid (C22) as well as a wide range of distilled products and glycerines are produced from an equally wide range of vegetable oils. The raw materials can be easily imported through the port of Rotterdam and the Rhine River, where the plant has its own unloading facilities. All these factors contribute to a versatile and

>> KLK OLEO - 4J60 KLK OLEO is the world’s preeminent oleochemical producer that is committed to delivering excellence in the global marketplace. The company is part of Kuala Lumpur Kepong Berhad (“KLK”), a leading international plantations group listed on the Main Market of Bursa Malaysia Securities Berhad. KLK OLEO’s product portfolio ranges from basic fatty acids and glyerine, fatty alcohols & fatty esters, to sulphonated methyl esters and surfactants.

KOLB - 4J60 In 2014, KOLB celebrates its 50 years anniversary: 50 years of experience in producing nonionic surfactants. Even though surfactants are usually a small part of a formulation, the effects go

efficient production unit within the global network of the KLK group of companies. Besides the production, KLK Emmerich functions as the Headquarters of KLK in Europe, also managing the logistics and sales of the products produced by KLK in Malaysia and China.

The KLK Product Portfolio consists of several groups of products: • PALMERA® Fatty Acids & Glycerine • PALMESTER® Fatty Esters • PALMEROL® Fatty Alcohols • PALMOWAX & PALMOCOL® Fatty Amides • PALMOSALT® Soap Noodles A range of certificates, such as Kosher, Halal and ISO certificates to name a few ensure a high quality standard. Apart from quality certificates, KLK is also a member of RSPO, the Round table for Sustainable Palm

beyond the surface, making a significant difference in the final performance of the end product. Product development is done in close cooperation with customers, who can benefit from KOLB’s technical know-how with nonionic surfactants. That’s why Kolb sponsors this year’s Innovation Award event at in-cosmetics. Thanks to innovative minds, Kolb has been successful and will continue to be so for a sustainable future.

Stepan - 4J58 Stepan Company is a major manufacturer of speciality and intermediate chemicals used in a wide range of industries. For over 50 years, Stepan’s broad product line has expanded to include numerous anionics as well as a variety of non-ionic, cationic and

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Oil. This organisation strives to make sustainable palm oil the norm in the market.

Together with Alsiano, KLK is expanding its market penetration in the Scandinavian market. The sales force and logistics capability of Alsiano combined with the product range and production capacity of KLK will offer an excellent service level to Scandinavian customers looking for high quality oleochemicals. All product groups can be offered whether they are made in Germany, Malaysia or China; this way, the full portfolio is available for customers in the region.

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amphoteric surfactants. Stepan also produces germicidal quaternary compounds and other speciality surfactants which are often custom-made to meet individual needs. Stepan Europe is the leader in the European fabric softener market thanks to the development of environmentally approved esterquats which are at the forefront of the market.

Hamburg Messe, Halls A1-A4 Opening hours 1 April 2 April 3 April

09:00 - 18:00 09:00 - 18:00 09:00 - 17:00

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SIPERNAT® silica particles for exfoliants as alternative to PE beads SIPERNAT® hydrated silica particles can easily be incorporated in the formulation and are a suitable alternative to PE microspheres

By Evonik Exfoliating body and face cleanser formulations often rely on polyethylene (PE) beads to help rejuvenate the skin by removing dead cells. Recent reports on plastic waste accumulating in the oceans and finding their way into the food chain have also raised concerns about the use of such microscopic PE particles in a variety of applications.

Hydrated silica, such as SIPERNAT® 22 and SIPERNAT® 2200, are suitable replacements which overcome some of the pressing environmental concerns of plastic spheres. These alternatives, while being effective cleaning agents, can offer additional advantages for formulators.

Nature-identical Hydrated silica is a non-harmful material as has been shown in a number of high volume studies1. Hydrated silica, an inorganic material, is not biodegradable in the ordinary sense.

Biodegradation ultimately leads to mineralisation which is not possible for a material that does already have a mineral nature. With its chemical composition, SiO2 is closely related to the abundance of silicate forming the earth’s crust. This close relationship is also the reason why this material is listed as a nature-identical inorganic material that can be used in natural See respective studies available at http://www.chem.unep.ch/irptc/ sids/oecdsids/Silicated.pdf and by request from http://www.ecetoc. org/jacc-reports 2 See flag “Annex 2 Nature identical” in www.natrue.org/fileadmin/ nature/downloads/Annexes_V2_xls

cosmetic formulations certified by the NATRUE standard2.

pure water immediately mixes without any agitation being necessary.

Easy incorporation In contrast to hydrophobic PE spheres, the SIPERNAT® particles have a hydrophilic surface that make them easy to incorporate in aqueous solutions. As can be seen from figure 2 (p. 4), SIPERNAT® powder poured into

In a comparative experiment under the same conditions, microspheres produced from polyethylene float on the surface of the water and require agitation and a surfactant to be wetted and dispersed in the liquid phase. (continues on page 4 >>) Different volume

Volume [%]

SIPERNAT® hydrated silica is available in different particle sizes applicable to the production of exfoliants. SIPERNAT® 22 (d50 particle size 120 µm) and SIPERNAT® 2200 (d50 particle size 320 µm) both feature a spherical particle shape. The particle size of both materials is shown in figure 1.

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Particle Diameter [µm]

Figure 1: Particle size distribution of SIPERNAT® 22 and SIPERNAT® 2200 measured following ISO 13320-1 with a Coulter LS 230 instrument (Beckman Coulter, Brea (CA), USA)

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PE spheres in personal cleaning products The discussion about the role of micro plastic waste in aquatic environments has recently raised concerns about PE spheres, often used as abrasive particles in exfoliating personal cleaning products. Already at a UNESCO workshop in 2010 in Paris, effluents from waste water plants were listed as a source of microplastic contaminations in aquatic environments4. Although PE beads in exfoliants are not the only origin of such contaminations, the growing debate has already led one important producer of personal care products to announce that they will phase out plastic spheres in their exfoliants by 20155.

Figure 2: SIPERNAT® 2200 (1) readily mixes into the blue coloured water while PE microspheres3 (2) remain on the surface of the liquid.

Hydrophilic nature - no floating on surface on washing off the exfoliant formulation The most important advantage of the hydrophilic nature of the SIPERNAT® hydrated silica is, however, not the easy incorporation in the formulation but mainly the behaviour of the particles after their intended use as an abrasive exfoliant. When rinsing the exfoliant cleaner off the skin, the surfactant concentration is greatly reduced. To simulate this dilution, 5 g of an exfoliant formulation prepared according to the guide formulation given in table 1 containing either SIPERNAT® 2200 or PE spheres in identical concentration was poured in 10 fold of its volumewater. As can be seen from figure 3 after a standing time of approx. 30 min., the polyethylene particles have mi-

grated to the surface while the silica particles of SIPERNAT® 22 or SIPERNAT® 2200 have settled out. This has dramatic consequences for the fate of the particles in water treatment plants. In contrast, the PE beads, once rinsed off the skin, SIPERNAT® behaves like sand in the sewage water system and remains later as an amorphous nature-identical material in the environment. No damage or pollution will be observed.

Viscosity builder An additional advantage of SIPERNAT® 22 and SIPERNAT® 2200 is that the silica particles contribute to the viscosity build up which is achieved by the carbomer thickener, thus leading to a reduction of the necessary carbomer concentration to achieve the desired viscosity.

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Table 1: Guide formulations for a face and a body scrub

Exfoliant Facial Cleansing Gel % w/w

Ingredients

INCI name

1 2

Water TEGO® Carbomer 341 ER

3 4

SIPERNAT® 2200 or SIPERNAT® 22 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 28% TEGO® Betaine F50 NaOH, 25% Preservative Total

Water Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Hydrated Silica Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Cocamidopropyl Betaine NaOH, 25% Sodium Hydroxide

Phase

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Processing • Dissolve the TEGO® Carbomer 341 ER in water.

• Add further ingredients in the given order.

• Stir under vacuum.

• Adjust pH value with NaOH, 25 wt.%.

68.26 1.00 5.00 20.00 5.30 0.44 q.s 100.00

Figure 3: Formulation according to Table 1 using either SIPERNAT® 2200 (1) or PE microspheres3 (2) diluted with the 10 fold volume of pure water. While the SIPERNAT® 2200 settles out suspended, the PE microspheres start to float to the surface after standing for only approx. 5 min.

Microsrub 100PC of Micro Powders Inc., Tarrytown (NY), USA See proceedings of “Proceeding of the GESAMP International Workshop on microplastic particles as a vector in transporting persistent, bioaccumulation and toxic substances in the oceans”, available at http://www.gesamp.org/data/gesamp/files/media/Publications/Reports_and_studies_82/gallery_1510/objct_1670_large.pdf 5 For more information see http://www. unilever.com/sustainableliving/Respondingtostakeholderconcerns/microplastics/index.aspx 3 4

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Greenbentin™, a step towards the future!

KOLB’s green product line containing at least 30% renewable raw materials is expanding with the GreenbentinTM XES range as the latest addition

By KOLB KOLB is a midsize company with a lean and flexible organisation and 50 years’ experience in design and production of nonionic surfactants.

Since 2007 KOLB has been part of the Malaysian multinational KLK (Kuala Lumpur Kepong Berhad). This merger strengthened the company considerably and opened up many new possibilities.

Greenbentin™ – The renewable products from KOLB To underline KOLB’s commitment to sustainability, a green product line called “Greenbentin” was launched.

As the name suggests, the philosophy behind Greenbentin™ is that the products contain at least 30 % renewable raw materials. 2011 marked the launch of Greenbentin™-DE, followed by Greenbentin™-MLS in 2012. The latest family member is the Greenbentin™-XES range: Greenbentin™-XES Greenbentin™-XES is a methyl ester ethoxylate based on rapeseed oil and is available in two ethoxylation grades. KOLB produces this group of

new ecological, nonionic surfactants using its own patented process that corresponds to state-of-the-art technology. The Greenbentin™-XES range is excellent for use in liquid and powder detergents. The low cloud point makes it suitable for low washing temperatures. The products can also be used in all-purpose cleaners.

Greenbentin™-DE These are nonionic surfactants that represent a competitive alternative to the market standard with their fast wettability and odour reduction.

Greenbentin™-DE products are of course DID and TSCA listed. Furthermore, the products are ECOCERTvalidated.

Greenbentin™-MLS The Greenbentin™-MLS types are new ecological, nonionic surfactants that are excellent for use in liquid and powder detergents. The low cloud point makes them suitable for low washing temperatures. They are also used in all-purpose cleaners.

As a specialist in alkoxylation, KOLB manufactures these products using its own patented process that corresponds to the latest state-of-the-art technology.

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Greenbentin™ & RSPO Please find more information about our Mass Balance certified Greenbentin™ products and RSPO (Round Table On Sustainable Palm Oil) in general at KOLB’s webpage or “We walk the talk” RSPO flyer.

In addition to low foaming characteristics, the MLS types also stand out particularly because of their excellent environmental performance. They are therefore extremely biodegradable and have very low water toxicity.

This means that Greenbentin™-MLS is not subject to labelling requirements. GreenbentinTM-MLS combines outstanding properties and an exceptionally environmentally friendly profile of the excellent KOLB quality.

You can expect more KOLB Greenbentin™ types in the future. A Greenbentin™ low-foamer will be launched very soon.

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Green solutions for your products Stepan offers a wide range of natural and sulphate free solutions for personal care products

By Stepan Formulating green products is one of the greatest challenges facing today’s formulators of personal care products. Consumers are also becoming increasingly concerned about their own health and that of the environment. They are considering natural products as alternatives to the products they are buying now.

Stepan is offering a wide range of green ingredients complying with Ecocert, Ecolabel and with an internal index called “Biorenewable Carbon Index”. Stepan BCI has been developed to evaluate the percentage of carbon in their surfactants that are derived from biorenewable resources.

Stepan-Mild GCC – natural food grade thickener Stepan is promoting a new, mild, completely natural food-grade thickener called Stepan-Mild® GCC which

is Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate. This product is made from 100% renewable carbon (BCI = 100), it gives good viscosity building and it also improves foaming.

Moreover, Stepan offers a multifunctional naturally derived sulfoacetate, Lathanol® LAL. Combined with other surfactants it gives many desirable effects such as luxurious creamy foam.

Stepan sulphate free solutions “Sulphate free”* is another growing trend often paired with natural claim.

Sulphates are perceived by customers and consumers as irritating and leading to colour degradation in colourtreated hair.

Stepan is offering different solutions to have a “sulphate free”* system according to an internal definition such as ALPHA-STEP® PC-48, a salt of methyl ester sulfonates (MES).

Also, Stepan is manufacturing unique

Stepan’s green ingredients comply with Ecocert, Ecolabel and with BCI - Stepan’s own Bio-renewable Carbon Index aqueous blends. They are thin liquids and are easily handled. Stepan-Mild® PCL is a primary surfactant blend of sulfolaurate and sulfoacetate.

Stepan-Mild® LSB contains sulfoacetate and sulfosuccinate.

Properties of these systems are different from usual systems and it is more challenging to get high foam volume and high viscosity. Therefore Stepan has developed a naturally derived mild betaine surfactant - Amphosol® CDB Special - satisfying this technical requirement.

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Amphosol® CDB Special is a cetyl betaine made from alkyl dimethyl tertiary amine and sodium monochloroacetate. It overcomes the low viscosities which are the result when conventional betaines are formulated in personal care products together with sulphate-free surfactants. It also provides enhanced foam volume, better foam stability and mildness, giving a good skin feel.

Article 103 *In the context of this article, “sulphate free” means that this product does not intentionally contain any sodium sulfate (any alcohol or ether sulfate).

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The effects of water-soluble phosphates in cosmetic emulsions: complexation Carephos N sodium polyphosphate shows a good and stable complexation performance in cosmetic emulsions according to tests

By BK Giulini In the past, phosphates in cosmetic formulations have been limited to use for regulation of pH value and as buffer reagents. The multi-functional action mechanisms of water-soluble phosphates - dispersion, complexation, pH regulator, buffer reagent, bacteriostatic1 - are rarely used in cosmetics.

In contrast, phosphates already play an important and helpful role in © BENEO many other areas of our daily lives.

Due to their excellent calcium-binding capacity and outstanding dispersion activity, phosphates are used in many laundry detergent and cleaning agent formulations. The dispersive effect of phosphates makes it possible to manufacture water-based paints with inorganic pigments. Phosphates have also been gaining in significance in the food industry.

For this reason, tests have been carried out to determine potential ways of using phosphates in cosmetic emulsions. In the present analysis, the following three water-soluble phosphates (INCI: Sodium hexametaphosphate), all with different pH value, were used to carry out the testing: • Carephos N, pH 7.3–7.9* • Utanit AF, pH 3.0–3.4* • Phoskadent Pyro, pH 10.0–10.6*

Phosphate complexation action To detect and document phosphate complexation action, iron ions are used which can be introduced into formulations through tubes, mixers or raw materials, for example. As base formulation, a recipe for sun formulation containing Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane is used. Since it already contains traces of iron, this UVA filter forms an intensive, red complex.

Production takes place using the system described in Table 1.

A colour measurement is used to carry out the assessment. To do this, the Minolta Chroma-Meter CR 300 is used to capture the colour conditions of the formulations after six weeks.

Numerical values are obtained during the measurement making an objective comparison of the individual formulations possible. Three numerical values are determined during the measurement: L, a and b. The L value describes the light-dark values, whereby “0” represents the ideal black and “100” the ideal white.

The a-value describes the red-green values and the b-value the yellowblue values. The a- and b-values have different prefixes, because with the present CIE Lab system it is assumed that no colour can be reddish or greenish at the same time, nor yellowish or blueish at the same time.

Table 1: Production system of various formulations to achieve complexation effect

Base formulation + 0.01% Iron-III-chloride-hexahydrate + 0.045% Carephos N + 0.09% Carephos N + 0.09% Disodium EDTA + 0.045% Utanit AF + 0.09% Utanit AF + 0.09% Phoskadent Pyro

1 x

2 x x

3 x

5 x

4 x

6 x

7 x

8 x

x

Thus, –a stands for green, +a for red, –b for blue and +b for yellow.

The differences from the “white standard” of the L-, a- and b-values are shown in the measurement. Since red complexes are formed in this particular case, the a-values must be given particular consideration – these are shown in Figure 1 (p. 8).

The higher the a-value, the worse the complexation action. For comparison purposes, the value from the formulation with 0.01% iron-III-chloridehexahydrate is used.

The best complexation performance is achieved by the acidic phosphate Utanit AF. However, the formulations containing Utanit AF do not remain sufficiently stable. It is possible to ... (continues on p. 8 >>)

x x

Maier, Scherer, Loessner: Long-chain polyphosphate causes cell lysis and inhibits bacillus cereus septum formation, which is dependent on divalent cations; Applied and Environmental Microbiology; Sept. 1999, p. 3942-3949, Vol. 65, No. 9

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x x x

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*pH value (1% in water)

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The Alsiano Household & Personal Care team Detergents - Surfactants - Cleaning

Personal care - Cosmetics

Key accounts

Per Sigsgaard

Lene Aarøe Nissen

Anders Hager

Senior Area Sales Manager M.Sc. Dairy

B. Chem. Eng. Area sales manager

M.Sc. Chem.

Sales Director

E-mail: ps@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0071 Mobile: +45 2612 8222

E-mail: lan@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0025 Mobile: +45 2270 1002

E-mail: ahg@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0026 Mobile: +45 2618 8545

Sales support

Sales support

Key accounts

Charlotte Nommesen

Signe Mørck

Jan Lindahl

Sales assistant

Sales assistant

Nordic Sales Manager Industry

E-mail: cn@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0008

E-mail: sm@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0042

E-mail: janl@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +46 31 939 031 Mobile: +46 708 866 563

Quality

Sales support

Logistics Charlotte Dahl

Malene Rask Harder

Susse Liff Hansen

Logistics assistant

Sales assistant

Quality manager

E-mail: cd@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0051

E-mail: mrh@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0007

E-mail: slh@alsiano.com Tel. dir.: +45 8230 0017

>> achieve stability in the formulation by adding the alkaline phosphate Phoskadent Pyro; however, the level of complexation action will be reduced considerably. A complexation

performance at a similarly good level to formulations containing Utanit AF is achieved by the phosphate Carephos N. Furthermore, the formulations with Carephos N remain stable.

In the present case, Disodium EDTA cannot be used to reduce the red colouring.

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Figure 1: a-values from the colour measurement

Figure 2: Left: Formulation with 0.09% Carephos N, Right: Formulation with 0.09% EDTA

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