Personal Care News

01/18

Personal Care News

© Givaudan

Content 1 PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller, a cosmetic alternative to dermal fillers

2 Givaudan sets a new dawn

for self-tanning with Vegetan® Evolve

3 Reverse hair ageing with

Darkenyl™, an advanced hair pigmentation recovery

4 The beauty of Stepan’s

versatile all-in-one naturallyderived ingredient

6 Givaudan Active Beauty leads the way in skin microbiome research

7 Esters and specialities for the personal care market

9 Vetivyne™, a new cosmetic active offering powerful beauty benefits

9 Fragrance on the move 10 Alsiano Household & Personal Care Team

PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller, a cosmetic alternative to dermal fillers Scientists have developed a new sustainable hyaluronic acid derivative to protect and rejuvenate the skin The majority of aesthetic dermal fillers is based on hyaluronic acid (HA) and requires local injections with possible complications. Despite their cost, these fillers cannot restore skin’s natural protection.

Givaudan Active Beauty has developed PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller, a new topical HA acting like an aesthetic filler by penetrating deeply into the skin and filling wrinkles, while stimulating the skin’s anti-pollution defences.

Four clinical tests have demonstrated the consumers’ benefits of PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller. With a single application, it fills small wrinkles (-8.7%) in 60 minutes, with further improvement in 6 hours. After 1 to 2 months it re-

duces nasogenian wrinkles (-13%) and improves skin texture for 77% of the volunteers. Meanwhile, it reactivates the metabolism of aged skin cells to restore the anti-oxidant skin defences against daily UV rays and pollution. It also boosts skin antioxidant capacities up to +34%.

Romain Reynaud, R&D Director, says “Our scientific team of skin biology experts have leveraged our leading expertise in hyaluronic acid (HA) to create this new fully acetylated HA. Developed in our Science & Technology Centre of Excellence, PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller goes beyond the current HA-based active ingredients already existing in our industry today. >>

Personal Care News 1/18

© Givaudan

Givaudan sets a new dawn for selftanning with Vegetan Evolve Givaudan Active Beauty introduces Vegetan® Evolve, the latest variation in the Vegetan® range In a market worth EUR 467.4M, with Western Europe and North America accounting for 80% of sales, selftanning harbours many opportunities.

Perception of self-tanning is positive and driven by social influences. 38% of UK self-tanning users say being impressed by someone's self-tan would encourage them to use a self-tan product. 28% of US consumers get spray tans, suggesting a desire for immediate results. Social media doesn’t make an exception, with the #selftan and #selftanner hashtags being on the rise on Instagram. 58% of US female beauty buyers say they get encouraged to buy a certain sunless product they see on social media posts.

more natural-looking and Instagramfriendly results, it is time to aim even higher.

Vegetan® Evolve takes its origin in white biotechnology, already mastered by Givaudan Active Beauty for the production of the Vegetan® range (DHA). Born in a unique biorefinery platform near Reims, France, where circular economy is at the heart of business, Vegetan® Evolve enjoys a highly sustainable manufacturing process.

tanning effect within hours, built to last. Thanks to a more controlled reaction with the skin, Vegetan® Evolve is ideal in association with DHA. It is an ally of choice to obtain the results consumers are looking for: long-lastingness, natural aspect, sun-kissed appearance and skin gentleness.

Scientific studies by Givaudan demonstrated that Vegetan® Evolve results in a long-lasting and darker tan colour as well as in a more natural colour for the skin tan.

Vegetan® Evolve is based on erythrulose, which possesses the same properties as DHA, the reference molecule for self-tanning. It triggers the Maillard reaction and leads to the production of brown compounds, the melanoidins. These pigments, linked to the proteins of the skin, provide a

A few drops of Vegetan® Evolve at the end of the formulation process and the self-tanning magic/alchemy operates in synergy with Vegetan®, Vegetan® FL and Vegetan® Premium Plus to naturally embellish the colour and the radiance of your complexion.

for premium anti-ageing products.”

minimise their wrinkles and enjoy smooth skin full of vitality.

PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller is a patentpending active ingredient delivering anti-ageing benefits while improving the texture of the skin overall. This innovation will help women and men

To support the launch of this innovation, Givaudan’s experts have created S3D® Pro’Fill: “The time reversing filler”, a new product concept featuring PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller.

Inspired by the clinical formulation used during the evaluations of PrimalHyal™ Ultrafiller, S3D® Pro’Fill fluid texture instantly penetrates into each wrinkle resulting in an immediate blur effect.

Now that self-tanning has upped its game with a full array of products and textures delivering more and

>> We’ve opened a new way of innovation

2

Personal Care News 1/18

Reverse hair ageing with Darkenyl™, an advanced hair pigmentation recovery Givaudan Active Beauty presents Darkenyl™, a new revolutionary hair repigmenting active ingredient inspired from the latest stem cell research Hair ageing is a concern world-wide, representing a major potential for the beauty industry: 59% of consumers on average are worried about hair ageing and over 60% of them are currently bothered by hair colour loss.(1) If genes can play a large role in hair whitening, it is now well-known that free radicals are directly inducing the premature greying of hair for both men and women. Most of the existing hair pigmentation solutions are based on hair colorants, artificially repigmenting the hair shaft but not addressing the origins of hair whitening.

Givaudan’s skin experts have designed Darkenyl™ to counteract the hair whitening biological process, by combining two synergistic molecules: the taxifolin glucoside, a unique stabilised plant polyphenol, and Nacetyl-tyrosine, a soluble precursor of melanin synthesis.

Darkenyl™ boosts hair stem cells’ proliferation (+30%) and migration to help the hair matrix with new melanocytes. Its antioxidant properties enable the reduction of free radical damage in hair follicles (-53%) and also help to protect existing melano-

cytes (+189%). Once the hair matrix has been repopulated with new melanocytes and both new and existing melanocytes are protected from ROS, Darkenyl™ delivers its melanin synthesis precursor to reactivate melanogenesis (+364%).

A clinical study versus placebo using white hair proportion scoring on hairlines and white hair density quantifying on a shaved scalp area have demonstrated the significant consumers’ benefits of Darkenyl™: in 4 months, volunteers had more than 3 times less white hair/cm2, with up to 56% reduction of white hair. The unique action of Darkenyl™ is patent-pending, gender independent and can be used on any hair type or colour. It shows progressive and longlasting results.

Amandine Scandolera, Head of Biological Evaluation, says: “The knowledge of the different mechanisms involved in the development of canities is increasingly consolidated to demonstrate the key role of the scalp oxidation, which was, up to now, less considered in the scientific strategies implementation. With the develop3

ment of Darkenyl™, we offer an effective solution through the reactivation of the main altered mechanisms at the origin of canities such as reduction of oxidation, reactivation of melanocytes stem cells and increasing of melanogenesis. Having white hair is definitely not an irreversible phenomenon anymore!”

To inspire the beauty industry while showcasing the high potential of this new ageless hair technology, Givaudan formulation experts have crafted S3D® Colourback, a repigmenting and conditioning serum to beautify and rejuvenate the hair.

S3D® Colourback features Darkenyl™ and ResistHyal®, which is the ultimate hair beauty enhancer (optimised hyaluronic acid), this product quickly penetrates into the scalp and spreads on the hair while activating the repigmentation process and protecting the hair follicles. With its innovative comb, S3D® Colourback enables a precise and effective application, directly on the roots.

Givaudan Active Beauty Hair Ageing G-Source global study 2018 (1)

Personal Care News 1/18

The beauty of Stepan’s versatile allin-one naturally-derived ingredient Express your creativity with STEPAN-MILD® GCC, the must-have ingredient for the natural beauty formulation kit STEPAN-MLD® GCC is a versatile allin-one-ingredient that will help you pump up your imagination for designing a complete formulation kit from exfoliant, body wash, skin care, hair conditioner to after sun lotion and even more ideas to come with your know-how and expertise. It offers a new supply incentive approach for product rationalisation in your company.

Body wash: A clean and radiant skin Using STEPAN-MILD® GCC for a polymer-free suspension bringing all its additional benefits.

Let’s express your creativity with STEPAN-MILD® GCC for a common solution to:

Ingredients Water STEPAN-MILD® GCC Natural oil ALPHA-STEP® PC48 Sodium Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Fragrance

xx Enhance foam, viscosity and skin feel when used as additive at 0.5-1.5%

This naturally derived formulation has a lotion-like appearance and texture that transforms into a soft and luxurious foam in the shower! The high

xx Get natural & polymer free suspension when structured liquid technology is used xx Formulate skin care products when used for its emollient properties, and get light, fluid, and gel-like texture creams.

For inspiration, here is a selection of sulfate-free rinse off and leave-on cosmetics formulations to help you get started unfolding your creativity:

% w/w qs 100 13.5 10.0 8.5 3.0 0.4

amount of natural oils will soften and moisturise dry skin, making every shower a spa-like experience!

Another possibility is using STEPANMILD® GCC as an additive in a standard sulfate-free surfactant system: Ingredients Water STEPAN-MILD® LSB AMPHOSOL DM STEPAN-MILD® GCC Fragrance Preservative Citric acid

% w/w qs 100 6.4 13.0 0.5 0.4 1.2 pH=5.5

Continues >>

xx Polymer-free suspension system

xx 100% bio-based from vegetable feedstock

xx Soft, moisturised feel

xx Biodegradable

xx Enhances foam volume

xx No preservative

xx Mild & skin friendly

xx COSMOS approved

xx Thickening properties

4

Personal Care News 1/18

>> Used at 0.5% it will customise all

kind of standard chassis very easily and improves its benefits from foam volume to skin feel.

Exfoliate ... Scrub me Sweetie!

When used for a sulfate, polymer and preservative suspension with sugar.

Ingredients Water ALPHA-STEP® PC48 STEPAN-MILD® GCC Sugar Soybean oil Shea butter Fragrance

% w/w qs 100 7.5 5.0 70.0 4.5 0.4 qs

This water-based scrub suspends 70% sugar with naturally derived sulfatefree cleansers and moisturisers that rinse cleanly and easily to leave skin feeling touchably soft and smooth.

Moisturise ... facial cream When using STEPAN MILD® GCC as emollient.

Ingredients % w/w Water 82.2 Carbomer 0.6 STEPAN-MILD® GCC 10.0 Cetyl alcohol 2.0 Glycerol Stearate 3.6 PEG-40 Stearate 0.4 Aqua & sodium benzoate & 1.0 Potassium sorbate Fragrance 0.2 The light and fluid gel texture presents a good sensory profile mainly as regards spreading, slippery. It will nourish and hydrate the skin while maintaining the skin barrier based on TEWL (transepidermal water loss) results.

Keep your skin soothed ... after sun lotion STEPAN-MILD® GCC-L used as fluid “humecto-emollient” in combination with a plant extract for an improved skin barrier restoration.

Ingredients Water Carbomer Alcohol & water & wild Acanthus extract STEPAN-MILD® GCC-L Cetyl alcohol Glycerol stearate PEG-stearate Fragrance, preservative

% w/w 75.7 0.6 qs 16.4 2.0 3.2 0.8 1.22

For active people that are looking for a quick, easy way to treat and repair skin. STEPAN-MILD® GCCL gives a light, cream-gel-like fluid structure with a cooling sensation.

STEPAN-MILD® GCC identity card

INCI: Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate

INCI: Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate & Glycerin & Propylene glycol

Active: 100% (soft paste to liquid) Melting point: 24-30 °C

Active: 61%

Melting - butter texture

Crystallisation: Below 15 °C Fluid “Humecto-emollient”

5

Personal Care News 1/18

© Givaudan

Givaudan Active Beauty leads the way in skin microbiome research New strategic investments in Givaudan Active Beauty’s Applied Microbiomics Centre of Excellence in Toulouse, France, reinforce the company’s 2020 strategy commitment to strengthen their product offering to customers Givaudan continues to invest in Active Beauty and its metagenomics platform to boost its pioneering position in the microbiome market. As the only fragrance company with in-house microbiome research capabilities, Givaudan remains committed to making strategic investments that will push the boundaries of scientific innovation to continue leading the microbiome trend.

advancements in microbiomics allow us to bring ground-breaking cosmetic concepts to new and existing customers. As the microbiome trend continues to grow, our teams will be at the forefront of this exciting area of scientific research.”

Expert scientists at Givaudan were the first to discover the creation of ‘microbiome activated’ ingredients as

Following the installation of stateof-the-art automation equipment at the Applied Microbiomics Centre of Excellence in Toulouse, France, Givaudan will accelerate the high throughput screenings (HTS) to offer more disruptive solutions for customers. With over 15 years’ experience in the field of microbiomics, Givaudan Active Beauty continues to develop active cosmetic ingredients, designed to activate, protect or balance the skin microbiota.

well as ‘microbiome protecting’ agents, resulting in two award-winning active cosmetic ingredients, Brightenyl™ and Revivyl™. Brightenyl™, the first microbiome activated skin brightener, won a Gold and Bronze Innovation Award in 2015 at in-cosmetics Global and in-cosmetics Latin America, respectively. The first holistic skin renewal accelerator, Revivyl™, won Gold for Best Innovation Award at in-cosmetics Latin America and in-cosmetics Asia in 2017.

Maurizio Volpi, President of Givaudan’s Fragrance Division, says: “It’s incredibly fascinating for a fragrance house to lead the creation of new active cosmetic ingredients in microbiomics. I’m very proud of the team in our Applied Microbiomics Centre of Excellence which is constantly pioneering the ingredients of tomorrow. This also includes our teams around the world working alongside our customers to create inventive new products for their markets.”

Laurent Bourdeau, Head of Active Beauty, says: “Not only are these investments in line with our 2020 company strategy, but our astonishing 6

Personal Care News 1/18

Esters and specialities for the personal care market KLK Oleo’s extensive product range for the personal care market enables formulators to choose from a variety of effects assisting in achieving the required property in the final product KLK Oleo offers an extensive range of esters that are used in toiletries, skin care, hair care, fragrances and decorative cosmetics.

Functionalities such as emolliency, perfuming, skin conditioning and solvency can be chosen by selecting the right ester type for the personal care formulations. In addition to these functionalities, KLK Oleo ester range also provides pigment dispersion, skin conditioning and solubilising effects.

KLK Oleo supplies a wide range of esters to the personal care market under the Palmester® tradename.

Their ester product portfolio consists of Isopropyl esters, such as Isopropyl myristate (IPM) and Isopropyl palmitate (IPP) acting as emollients, and 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate (EHP), 2-Ethylhexyl stearate (EHS) and 2-Ethylhexyl cocoate (EHC) acting as emollients.

However, due to the difference in chain length of the esters, the skin feel will vary depending on the emollient selection.

Further to the ester range for personal care products, KLK Oleo offers a number of Isostearate esters. These esters are derived from Isostearic acid,

which is a fully saturated, branched fatty acid, providing excellent heat and odour stability.

Isostearate esters offer excellent low temperature properties and exhibit good oxidative stability. These esters have low odour, remarkably high miscibility and compatibility in a wide range of formulations with ester oils, silicone-based emulsifiers and colour pigments. Esters such as Isopropyl Isostearate (Palmester® 9000), Penta-

MCT oil – dedicated plant in Germany KLK Emmerich GmbH’s newly built plant, which became operational October last year, is dedicated to producing MCT oil. MCT, Medium Chain Triglyceride, is a widely used product in personal care, pharma and food related applications and enables the formulators to achieve a skin feel which is slightly fatty. MCT oils can also replace mineral oils in certain skin cream formulations.

7

erythritol Tetraisostearate (Palmester® 9210) and PEG-40 Sorbitan Perisostearate (Sympatens®-SIS/400) are a few examples of the Isostearate esters KLK Oleo offers to the personal care market.

Emulsifying ingredients Emulsifying is a functionality that can be introduced by KLK Oleo’s sorbitan esters and polysorbates. Sorbitan mono laurate (Kosteran-20) and Sorbitan mono oleate (Kosteran-80) are examples of sorbitan esters that KLK Emmerich GmbH produces locally in Germany under personal care conditions. Sorbitan esters are sold to the market under the KOSTERAN® tradename. Sorbitan esters can be further processed by ethoxylating them into polysorbates. These polysorbates are offered to the market under the tradename KOTILEN® e.g. Kotilen-20 (ethoxylated sorbitan mono laurate) and Kotilen-80 (ethoxylated sorbitan mono oleate).

Fatty alcohols To complete the product range for personal care, KLK Oleo offers a wide variety of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols act as emollients, emulsifiers, ... >>

Personal Care News 1/18

>> foam boosters, cleansing agents and

viscosity modifiers. Fatty alcohols are sold to the market under the PALMEROL® tradename. PALMEROL® fatty alcohols are available as Short Chains (C8/C10), Mid Cuts (C12-C16) and Long Chains (C16/C18).

About KLK Oleo As a global oleochemical producer, KLK Oleo is committed to supplying sustainable ingredients for a wide variety of industry sectors. Vertically integrated and a member of the RSPO, the company ensures a highly transparent supply chain. Headquartered in Kuala Lumpur, KLK Oleo has established various production sites in Asia as well as in Europe. The close proximity to customers and their technical aptitude allow them to meet

the needs of the market. By thinking globally and acting locally, KLK Oleo is the leading oleochemical producer in Europe offering an extensive product portfolio, essential for diverse application in distinct industries.

KLK Oleo’s European headquarter is located in Emmerich am Rhein and with a further production site in Düsseldorf, the KLK Emmerich GmbH product portfolio ranges from specialities products such as Isostearic acid, Dimer acid, Sorbitan esters, MCT Oils, Triacetin, to a variety of technical products next to a full range of Fatty acids and Glycerine.

In addition to the European produced specialities products, a wide range of speciality products are produced in Malaysia and imported into Europe.

KLK Oleo offers a broad range of basic fatty acids and glycerine, fatty alcohols and fatty esters, and sulphonated methyl esters and surfactants.

Several KLK Oleo products are ISO22000 certified, GMP+, GMO free, Halal, Kosher, Pharma grade and Ecocert certified. All their production sites are RSPO certified to provide Mass Balance and Segregated products.

Sustainability KLK and its subsidiaries including KLK Oleo are committed to protecting all its resources and incorporating environmental friendly methods into its practices policies.

After 5 years of experience in multisite RSPO Supply Chain Certification, KLK Oleo now has 13 manufacturing facilities certified, strategically located in Malaysia, Indonesia, China and Europe. Capability in delivering traceable, segregated and mass balance certified oleobased products enables KLK Oleo to continue to grow as the most trusted global partner in oleo-based products and solutions.

8

Personal Care News 1/18

© Givaudan

Vetivyne™, a new cosmetic active offering powerful beauty benefits Upcycled vetiver roots from fragrance raw materials were used to create a fully natural and sustainable ingredient Givaudan Active Beauty combined the world of fragrances and cosmetics to create Vetivyne™, a new patent-pending powerful active ingredient with both anti-ageing benefits and long lasting properties to enhance fragrance wear.

Scientists and sustainability experts at Givaudan discovered Vetivyne™ by using water-soluble extract from exhausted Haitian vetiver roots, a by-product of the extraction procedure used to produce vetiver oil for fragrances. The cosmetic active Givaudan created via this cuttingedge process is fully natural, concen-

trated, odour-free and offers clinically proven skin benefits. By acting on the skin lipids, Vetivyne™ helps enhance skin hydration and suppleness as well as removing wrinkles. Vetivyne™ also nicely bridges the cosmetics and fragrances worlds as it boosts the long lastingness of fragrances that are applied by the user.

This is the first time the fragrance and cosmetic worlds have shared the same sustainable and ethical origin.

This ground-breaking ‘upcycling’ approach reduces waste and minimises Givaudan Active Beauty’s environmental impact, in line with their com-

mitment to sustainability and consumers’ demand for products that are both highly effective and produced in a responsible way. Over the years, the company has been actively supporting a local cooperative of vetiver roots producers through their Sourcing for Shared Value programme in Haiti. The vetiver roots are certified ECOCERT (ESR), an organic and fair trade standard. This initiative ensures the social and environmental responsibility of vetiver production, enabling perfumers and formulators to craft the most inspiring products from responsibly-sourced vetiver.

Fragrance on the move New inspiring fusion of fine fragrances and cosmetics enabling consumers to rethink their daily beauty routine

© Givaudan

Givaudan Active Beauty has created “Fragrance on the move”, an innovative concept including four products merging cosmetics and fine fragrances to enhance beauty and to provide inspiration, delight and astonishment.

9

As consumers begin to demand more than a regular skin routine, Givaudan Active Beauty has developed four new products dedicated to one specific part of the body, combining more than 10% of fragrance, crafted by ... >>

Personal Care News 1/18

Alsiano Household & Personal Care Team

Anders Hager

Lene Aarøe Nissen

Lena Molin

Area Sales Manager E: lan@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0025 M: +45 2270 1002

Area sales manager E: lm@alsiano.com M:+46 722 048 245

Sasha Tomin

Sales Director E: ahg@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0026 M:+45 2618 8545

Annette Strarup

Hedvig Åkesson

Jan Lindahl

Susse Liff Hansen

Business Manager E: janl@alsiano.com M: +46 708 866 563

QA Manager E: slh@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0017 M:+45 4071 8338

Area sales manager E: ask@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0049 M:+45 2270 1015

Charlotte Dahl Sales & Logistics Coordinator E: cd@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0051

Area sales manager On maternity leave

Malene Rask Harder

Charlotte Nommesen

Sales Assistant E: mrh@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0007

Sales Assistant E: cn@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0008

>> Givaudan’s fine fragrances perfumers

in Paris, and skincare to enhance the daily beauty routine of customers.

Attraction: A neck and décolleté lotion to unveil new seduction supremacy Featuring Megassane®, a skin tone highlighter and Neurophroline®, an overall skin stress control, Attraction protects the neck and décolleté while brightening the aura.

The musky, spicy and woody olfactive notes will seduce you!

Perfection: A dry body oil SPF 20 to revive the body’s beauty. Featuring

Area sales manager E: sto@alsiano.com M: +46 706 601 313

Nyamplung oil, a precious oil, Questice® Liquid, a long lasting body cooler and Uniprotect® PT-3, a powerful skin protector against UV, Perfection protects and repairs the skin from all external aggressions. Fruity top notes enhanced with several marine notes will leave you dreaming about summer.

Affirmation: A hair elixir to beautify the hair and leave a precious mark with its floral, fruity and woody olfactive notes! Featuring ResistHyal®, a 7-in-1 hair beauty enhancer, Kendi Oil, a miraculous oil and Glossyliance™

Signe Mørck Sales Assistant E: sm@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0042

a hair shine ingredient, Affirmation brings softness, hydration and volume to hair with a glossy effect.

Sensation: A light legs mist to let the freshness transport oneself Featuring Evercool® skin, an advanced cooling technology, Sensation has a unique long-lasting freshness power including aromatic, green and fruity olfactive notes that let you feel invigorated and hydrated… glamorously.

Publisher: Alsiano A/S - Circulation: 450 copies - Editor-in-chief: Lene Aarøe Nissen - Coordinator, text, layout: Dorthe Andersson.

Personal Care News is published twice a year and distributed to customers and other interested parties. Reproduction of articles requires prior consent form the author. Alsiano is not responsible for the content of articles written by external authors.

10