Personal Care News by Alsiano A/S

01/19

Personal Care News

Content 1 New unique micro-

encapsulated stabilised retinol

2 Coming up:

Personal Care Seminar

3 NatureinTM Wheat Peptides 4 PALMESTER Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - MCT oil

5 AgefinityTM: the 3D Y reshaper

6 Givaudan drives innovation with new clinical data on skin microbiome

7 KLK Oleo isostearate esters 8 SensitylTM: the sensitive good mood influencer

8 Alsiano Personal Care Team

New unique microencapsulated stabilised retinol Givaudan Active Beauty unveils Spherulite™ R10 with faster and superior anti-ageing clinical efficacy compared to free retinol Givaudan Active Beauty launches Spherulite™ R10, a groundbreaking solution to use retinol for skincare in a more stable and efficient way. Crafted with the Spherulite™ technology, Spherulite™ R10 demonstrates faster and superior anti-ageing clinical efficacy compared to free retinol. Ageing effects lead men and women to search for efficient solutions to get rid of wrinkles. Retinol, the most wellknown ingredient to reverse sign of ageing, is a golden standard despite being very difficult to stabilise in formula. Not surprisingly, it is one of the most requested ingredients when the time has come to deal with wrinkles. Globally, one in four consumers is looking for retinol in their skincare products.

The advanced microencapsulation technology of Spherulite™ R10 allows the protection and stabilisation of retinol in the multi-layered crystalline microcapsules, bringing solutions to all formulators of retinol products. The non-ionic nature of these capsules enables a better penetration into the skin where the retinol is slowly released, thus preventing any adverse reactions such as irritation. Far more stable than free retinol in formulation and twice more stable than other benchmark encapsulated retinol, Spherulite™ R10 enables Vitamin A to have a better bioavailability into the epidermis. When compared to free retinol in a double blind versus placebo clinical trial, ...........>>

Personal Care News 1/19

Coming up: Personal Care Seminar Join us on 4 December for an inspiring day together with Givaudan Active Beauty where the theme is Clean Care, Natural Beauty & Sustainable Ingredients We have the pleasure of inviting you to a seminar introducing Givaudan Active Beauty’s sustainable, powerful and efficient solutions designed for the Nordics’ market. Planet earth is threatened, suffering from global warming, deforestation and endangered biodiversity. With the rise of data concerning the harmful effects of chemical ingredients, health scandals and pollution, consumers are evermore keen on products that convey clean, safe, traceable and transparent values. Consumers are critical and feel responsible for making the world a better place. They adopt healthier life-

>> Spherulite™

R10 demonstrated quicker and superior rejuvenating results than free retinol with a significant decrease of crow’s feet wrinkles (-11.1% in one month) and of the volume of nasolabial wrinkles (-37.3% in 2 months). Over 70% of volunteers have seen a visible effect on wrinkles and felt their skin more plumped after using this microencapsulated retinol, validating

styles, aiming at reducing carbon footprints, are interested in lightweight formulas and “see-through” innovations and engaging themselves in good causes. In the post-truth era, authenticity and truthfulness have become the cornerstone for safe home and personal care products. During this exclusive moment, get the opportunity to uncover all the facets of our active ingredients as well as the latest cosmetics trends in the realm of natural beauty, sensitive care and sustainable ingredients. Registration by email to Lene Aarøe Nissen lan@alsiano.com. Deadline for registration is 20 November 2019.

that Spherulite™ R10 brings a solution for consumers of all beauty brands who seek to win the battle against wrinkles.

Vectorised youth therapy To inspire the beauty industry, Givaudan formulation experts crafted S3D® PoweR-10, the first microvectorised retinol anti-ageing night cream. Featuring Spherulite™ R10, it will help treat wrinkles softly and 2

Clean Care, Natural Beauty & Sustainable Ingredients 4 December 2019 Venue: Alsiano ∙ Blokken 21 Birkerød ∙ Denmark Participation is free. However, in case of no-show without cancellation min. 2 days before the event, we will charge a noshow-fee of 500 DKK.

carefully. Fresh and light, the cream penetrates quickly into the skin without leaving any excess or sticky effect. They call the experience “vectorised youth therapy”.

Personal Care News 1/19

Naturein™ Wheat Peptides A clean and sustainable hair care alternative to switch to a fully natural solution Givaudan Active Beauty launches Naturein™ Wheat Peptides, a clean and sustainable alternative to cationic guar, a key specific detangling ingredient for hair care. This new natural ingredient is obtained from 100% French origin locally-sourced wheat and crafted by green fractionation. Ecological and natural beauty are two of the biggest hair care market trends in the industry. Givaudan’s Clean and Natural Study 2019 demonstrated that 91% of consumers are interested in the concept of clean beauty for hair care. In addition, they seek natural ingredients and products that are free from chemicals. According to the study, 80% of them find that wheat protein fits well with the idea of clean beauty for their hair, and 78% of them think the local wheat biomass is aligned with the concept. Givaudan researchers have developed Naturein™ Wheat Peptides, abiding by these two fundamental pillars. As consumers are becoming increasingly conscious about environmental impact, the majority of them use natural brands exclusively, or associate them with mainstream brands. By being 100% natural and crafted in one of the most important French farming regions in a Biorefinery platform, Naturein™ Wheat Peptides answer

all consumer requests looking for a clean product that is not only good for the consumer, but also for the environment. It is a perfect alternative to cationic guar, and acts as a conditioner smoothening and detangling the hair. Amandine Scandolera, Ph. D, Head of Biological Evaluation said: “Cationic guar is the most used chemical ingredient in the hair care market. To prove the effectiveness of our natural asset, we opted for tests that put Naturein™ Wheat Peptides in competition with cationic guar. Results prove that it is more effective in record time. All clinical tests carried out on a hundred people demonstrate the excellence of Naturein™ Wheat Peptides.” Clinical tests have been further enhanced by a hair care expert who evaluated the impact of Naturein™ Wheat Peptides on wet and dry hair. The results show that 3% of the wheat peptides extract significantly improved (+20%) the detangling on wet hair (versus +15% with 0.3% cationic guar). In addition, it significantly improves (+22%) the combing and smoothness of dry hair (versus 5% with 0.3% cationic guar). Two effective results have also been perceived by the panel during clinical tests. In fact, 80% think that their hair feels 3

MEU.Hair leave-in conditioning spray concept To inspire the beauty industry, Givaudan formulation experts has crafted MEU.Hair, a leavein conditioning spray powered by Naturein™ Wheat Peptides and ResistHyal® - the ultimate hair beauty enhancer. This tailormade experience for natural hair care is mixed with Buruti and Moringa oils for repair and Saffron flower and Guarana extract to strengthen the hair.

good (versus 40% placebo) and 70% think that their hair is easier to untangle (versus 45% placebo) after applying the active product.

Personal Care News 1/19

PALMESTER Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - MCT oil The MCT oils in KLK Oleo’s line are multifunctional ingredients suitable for a wide range of personal care applications KLK Oleo provides a line of a caprylic/ capric triglyceride, also known as MCT oil. This classic emollient is derived from renewable natural raw materials. It is produced from vegetable glycerine and fractionated vegetable fatty acids, mainly caprylic and capric acids. MCT Oil is a clear and colourless liquid, neutral in odour and taste. It is fully saturated and therefore highly resistant to oxidation. KLK Oleo offers different grades of MCT oil derived from coco nut or palm. It functions as an emollient, dispersing agent, moisturiser, oil substitute, solubiliser, solvent, spreading agent and viscosity modifier. Thanks to these many functions, MCT oil is suitable for a broad range of applications. KLK Oleo’s production units, based in Germany and Malaysia, are backwards integrated into the feedstock and dedicated to the production of MCT Oils.

Quality Assurance PALMESTER caprylic/capric triglycerides are vegetable, Non-GMO, Kosher and Halal, and comply with leading quality management systems.

Brand name

PALMESTER 3590 PALMESTER 3595 PALMESTER 3585 PALMESTER 3550

Feedstock

Coconut

Palm

INCI

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride

Ratio C8/C10 60 / 40

60 / 40

70 / 30

95 / 5

Origin

100% vegetable

RSPO MB

n/a

Yes

Kosher/HALAL Yes

Yes

Packaging

Bulk /IBC/Drums

Applications Skin Care

Baby Care

Lip Care

Aerosols

Facial cream & masks Sunscreens Body lotions & oils Aftersun Nail care Self-tanning Hand & foot care

Sun Care

Creams Lotions Cleansing Wet wipes

Balms Creams Sticks

Antiperspirants Deodorants Perfumes

Colour Cosmetics

Hair Care

Oils

Men’s Grooming

Eyeshadow Blush powder Primers Lipsticks Make-up remover

Oils Masks

Massage Bath & shower Shawing

Shaving creams & oils After shave oils & lotions Beard oils & balms

Personal Care News 1/19

AgefinityTM: the 3D Y reshaper Givaudan Active Beauty launches Agefinity™, a natural biomimetic cosmetic active redefining skin ageing Givaudan Active Beauty presents Agefinity™, their latest revolutionary cosmetic active enhancing the Y-zone - the face and neck area - by using natural ingredients and pioneering biotechnology to energise and reshape skin cells. As the digital world continues to evolve, new ageing marks are also making their appearance in key areas of our physique related to the use of cellphones and smartphones. With over 65.8% of cellphone users worldwide including 35.8% smartphone users, Givaudan Active Beauty addressed this growing trend by crafting Agefinity™, a strong youth activator to ensure that when consumers reload their phone, they’re also recharging the energy of their skin to get rid of wrinkles.

energy of the cells. With multiple anti-ageing benefits, Agefinity™ can significantly reduce visible age spots (a reduction up to 2.1 times more efficient), neck (-32.5%) and crow’s feet (-11.5%) wrinkles, remodel the Y-shape of the face and reorganise skin matrix similar to younger skin. 74% of the panel found the skin on their neck firmer (vs 45% for placebo) and 84% felt convinced by the effect of the product at the end of the trial (vs 60% for placebo). Together with its powerful anti-ageing and multi-functional properties,

Romain Reynaud, R&D Director, said: “This common lifestyle leads to a new beauty issue identified as ‘Text Neck Wrinkles’, the newest challenge brilliantly highlighted by our team of researchers. Their exceptional scientific research and results have influenced the creation of Agefinity™ which is inspired by nature and activated by biotechnology.” Agefinity™ is a mannose-6-Phosphate complex using a vegetal source and green chemistry to replenish the 5

Agefinity™ brings a solution for consumers of all beauty brands who seek to win the battle of using their smartphones every day and taking care of their beauty at the same time.

S3D® Mystic To inspire the beauty industry, Givaudan formulation experts crafted S3D® Mystic, a powerful anti-Jericho extract, also called “resurrection plant”, and diamond powder. As a new gesture to the beauty routine, the serum quickly penetrates into the skin, leaving a light floral scent behind after application.

Personal Care News 1/19

Givaudan drives innovation with new clinical data on skin microbiome Givaudan Active Beauty takes skin microbiome research to the next level by publishing new exclusive clinical data for Vetivyne™, the vetiver inspired skin youth booster, and Yogurtene® Balance, a unique yogurt powder and prebiotic combination A recent Givaudan Active Beauty’s worldwide consumers study shows that consumers are familiar with the importance of the skin microbiome. Interestingly, 69% of them are aware that there are microorganisms on the human skin and know that it’s important to keep the balance for skin health. Consumers have increased their knowledge about skin microorganisms and they are also willing to try cosmetic products with skin microflora concept. 70% of them identified microbiome associated products to health and wellness benefits which is a consumer quest that we observe globally. With over 15 years of research in the microbiome field, Givaudan Active Beauty is breaking new ground in the exploration of data on skin microbiome.

Balance to enhance, a leitmotiv for rinse off products External influencers such as lifestyle and diet affect our skin microbiota and it is now proven that ageing is also impacting its evolution. Balancing the skin microbiome composition is

therefore critical to counteract ageing and enhance the beauty of our skin. Yogurtene® Balance, an active rich in yogurt constituents and prebiotics supporting the skin friendly bacteria, was studied by Active Beauty researchers. They discovered that this active ingredient helps to rejuvenate the skin microflora while improving skin hydration. This performance was clinically proven in a rinse-off application (bar soap), demonstrating the impact of Yogurtene® Balance on skin microbiota composition after only 15 minutes by modifying it towards the typical composition of a younger skin microbiota. The assay revealed also a significant 2.6 times increase of skin hydration versus placebo.

Stabilised skin microbiome is all about protection If balancing the skin microbiome composition is essential, ensuring its protection is also a major challenge. Even if we cannot see the over 1000 species of microbes that live on the upper layer of our skin, they impact what our skin looks and feels like day6

to-day. Givaudan researchers performed a new clinical test with Vetivyne™, an anti-ageing active upcycled from vetiver roots. The results revealed that Vetivyne™ avoids dysbiosis by preserving the Actinobacteria abundance, which is typically decreasing when the skin is ageing, therefore protecting the skin microbiome composition over time. Mathias Fleury, Category Manager Actives said: “Skin microbiome is one of the fastest growing trends in the beauty industry as it is a major scientific new area. This is why we keep investigating new benefits from active ingredients and connect them to the consumers’ expectations. We are delighted to regularly bring our customers new possibilities grounded in solid science. Balancing the skin microbiota is essential to get a healthy and beautiful skin and protecting its composition is crucial. These new microbiome based rinse-off and leaveon applications will offer additional product development opportunities for our customers.”

Personal Care News 1/19

KLK Oleo isostearate esters Versatile ingredients for beauty and skin care Isostearate esters offer excellent low temperature properties and exhibit good oxidative stability due to the saturated and branched molecular structure. These esters have low odour, remarkably high miscibility and compatibility in a wide range of formulations with ester oils, silicone-based emulsifiers and colour pigments.

and comparable to or better than Isopropyl Palmitate. Good spreadability with high absorption makes these esters suitable as emollient, emulsifier and dispersant.

Sensory analysis The sensorial experience of isostearate esters is that of a light feeling

Spreadability

Smoothness

Tackiness

Absorption

TYPICAL FUNCTIONS

PRODUCT NAME INCI NAME

lve

PALMESTER 9000 Isopropyl Isostearate

Good moisturizing ∙ Long lasting lubricious skin feel ∙ Good solvent for makeup removers and foundations ∙ Binder for decorative cosmetics

SYMPATENS-PTIS Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Good air permeability ∙ Alternative to castor oil ∙ Non-comedogenic, non-irritant ∙ Provides highly glossy film

SYMPATENS-GMIS Glycerol Isostearate

Easily dispersible in glycerols, triols and polyols ∙ Good cleansing and glossing agent ∙ Rich after feel

SYMPATENS-GTIS Triisostearin

Lower melting point ∙ Persistent and long lasting lubricious skin feel ∙ Comparable to natural oils, easier to emulsify

SYMPATENS-SIS/400 PEG-40 Sorbitan Perisostearate

Facilitate the mixture of water with oil and dirt for effective rinse-off ∙ Highly efficient spreading agent – Density close to water, easy to formulate

SYMPATENS-TTIS Trimethylpropane Triisosterate

Potential SPF booster ∙ Non tacky sensorial properties ∙ Alternative to mineral oil and petrolatum

KOSTERAN-I/1 Sorbitan Isostearate

Stable to electrolytes, mild acids and bases ∙ Good wetting and pigment dispersing properties for inorganic pigments and UV filters ∙ Synergy with Kotilen-S/1 for heat sensitive formulations

TYPICAL APPLICATIONS

er/ er t r s r en ant ulsifi ulsifi nt re ise re lou tic m es s ca llie ca Co sme bil tri Em -em Pig sper o u e n l n l i i co Em So Sk Su co di To

Personal Care News 1/19

Alsiano Personal Care Team

Lene Aarøe Nissen

Peter H. Bendtsen

Lena Molin

Business Manager E: lan@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0025 M: +45 2270 1002

Area sales manager E: lm@alsiano.com M:+46 722 048 245

Area sales manager E: phb@alsiano.com M:+45 2270 1015

Susse Liff Hansen

Charlotte Dahl

Malene Rask Harder

QA Manager E: slh@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0017 M:+45 4071 8338

Area sales manager E: haa@alsiano.com M:+46 708 155 012

Sales Assistant E: mrh@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0007

Sales & Logistics Coordinator E: cd@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0051

Hedvig Åkesson

Signe Mørck Sales Assistant E: sm@alsiano.com T: +45 8230 0042

SensitylTM: the sensitive skin good mood influencer New sustainable concentrate of marine biotechnology for cosmetics that also influences consumers’ mood. Sensityl™ from Givaudan Active Beauty is an active cosmetic ingredient that fuses nature and scientific expertise to offer consumers dual benefits on beauty and well-being. This new patent-pending ingredient was developed in Givaudan’s Marine Biotechnology Centre of Excellence

based in Brittany, France, where they leverage their leading exploration on microalgae to create innovative natural cosmetic ingredients. Sensityl™ is the first ingredient of its kind to positively influence consumers’ mood after just one month of use, owing to its powerful soothing benefits.

have revealed that volunteers using Sensityl™ expressed a real positive change in how they felt about their facial skin moving from negative feelings to positive ones, due to the exceptional soothing benefits versus placebo.

Sensityl™ also contributes to Givaudan’s sustainability approach ‘A Sense of Tomorrow’ as it innovates responsibly by enhancing people’s lives while respecting the environment due to state-of-the-art biotechnology processes. Exploiting new scientifically proven neuroscience protocols, researchers

Publisher: Alsiano A/S ∙ Circulation: 450 copies ∙ Editor-in-chief: Lene Aarøe Nissen ∙ Coordinator, text, layout: Dorthe Andersson. Personal Care News is published 1-2 times a year and distributed to customers and other interested parties. Reproduction of articles requires prior consent form the author. Alsiano is not responsible for the content of articles written by external authors.