USRider® Equestrian Traveler's Companion-Spring 2024

What Members Are Saying About Recent Services

“This is the second time I have utilized my USRider membership and I will always have this membership as long as I am showing horses and pulling trailers. This service is PRICELESS to the horse community! Thank you!”

— Melody C. MN (Sep ’23)

“We were stuck on the side of the interstate with a broken truck and two horses in the hot trailer. I’ll admit, I was rattled. The customer service representative was incredibly patient with me, reassuring and fulfilled all promises even checking back to be sure we were ok. The tow truck was there sooner than expected and we were quickly back on the road, under tow to our safe destination. I can’t say enough positive things about the experience. Thank you!”

— Andrea M. FL (Sep ’23)

“The man I spoke with was both professional and friendly and seemed genuinely concerned for me and my horses’ well being. He let me know the estimated time before help arrived and then again to make sure that the road service was there and had taken care of my problem. I was very satisfied with the way the situation was handled.”

— Beth R. MI (Oct ’23)

“As always you guys come through when I need you most! Could not be happier with USRider! Thank you for going above and beyond on this call! Not having my truck functioning is extremely stressful, it is my most vital piece of farm equipment! Thank you so much for being there when I needed you!”

— Jennifer C. NC (Oct ’23)

“I was a member of AAA for decades and the service provided in Texas was non-existent. I’m so happy to have USRider. Their service is second to none.”

— Lisa A. TX (Oct ’23)

“God Bless Rick, he was wonderful! My alternator went on my truck and I was dead on the side of I 95 and terrified. I called US Rider and he answered immediately, understood my problem, asked all the questions and then got to work. The local Chevrolet dealer said they could take my truck but could not look at it till Monday. This was Friday afternoon, so Monday would not be good. Rick called other local mechanics and found one to rescue me. They came quickly and got me to their shop.”

— Victoria P. SC (Nov ’23)

Travel with confidence knowing USRider will get you back on the road safely and efficiently, should unexpected vehicle or trailer problems occur.

TRAILERINGTIP

On two-lane mountain roads, only pull over so others can pass you when it’s safe.

SEASONALTIP

Be Ready to Roll

If you stored your trailer over the winter, follow this 11-point inspection routine before removing your trailer from the jack stands to make sure it’s ready to roll.

1. Remove all wheels and hubs or brake drums. Note which spindle and brake the drum was removed from so it can be reinstalled in the same location.

2. Inspect suspension for wear.

3. Check the tightness of the hanger bolt, shackle bolt, and U-bolt nuts per recommended torque values.

4. Check the brake linings, brake drums, and armature faces for excessive wear or scoring.

5. Check the brake magnets with an ohmmeter. The magnets should check 3.2 ohms. If shorted or worn excessively, replace.

6. Lubricate all the brake’s moving parts, using a high-temperature brake lubricant. Caution: Don’t get grease or oil on the brake linings or magnet face.

7. Remove any rust from the braking surface and the drums’ armature surface with fine emery paper or crocus cloth. As you work, protect the bearings from rust-particle contamination.

Safety First

When you’re pulling a horse trailer on winding two-lane mountain roads or anywhere it’s difficult for others to pass you, don’t worry if you’re driving slower than the speed limit and holding up traffic. Make your horse your first priority; his safety comes first. Other travelers may be frustrated, but your horse requires a smooth, steady ride. State-level legislation may prompt you to worry more about the traffic around you. Laws may suggest that drivers of slow-moving vehicles move to the side of the road at the first safe opportunity when more than five cars are following in traffic. However, you often aren’t required to pull off to let other vehicles pass unless there was a safe place to do so. If you choose to pull over, make sure you can slow down gradually and will be able to accelerate gradually when you choose to re-enter traffic. To check your local travel laws, visit www.dmv. org, and go to the “Driver Handbooks” section.

— Heidi Melocco

Use this post-storage inspection routine to ready your trailer for springtime adventures.

8. Inspect oil or grease seals for wear or nicks. Replace if necessary.

9. Lubricate hub bearings.

10. Reinstall hubs, and adjust the bearings.

11. Mount and tighten wheels.

— Tom Scheve and Neva Kittrell Scheve

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

Manage Thrush

It’s spring—but wet ground conditions alone won’t cause thrush. Here’s what you need to know.

Causes: Thrush is caused by an anaerobic bacterium, meaning that it can live without oxygen. Poorly cleaned stalls, urine-soaked and manure-packed footing, and wet, muddy conditions are major factors that predispose your horse’s hoof to thrush. Additionally, poorly trimmed feet—hooves with contracted heels or overly high heels that trap debris inside the foot and around the frog—also contribute to your horse’s chances of contracting thrush. But the primary cause of thrush is inadequately cleaning your horse’s feet. Anaerobic bacteria can’t live and multiply in air and light, but if you allow your horse’s foot to become a dark, wet, unsanitary sanctuary for these bacteria, they’ll move in.

Symptoms: Thrush is characterized by a dark, sticky discharge and a foul, rotting smell. The frog may be covered with this discharge, or it may build up only deep in the frog’s grooves. Thrush is usually associated with poor frog growth and disintegration of the frog tissue.

Treatment: If your horse gets thrush, first ask you farrier to trim your horse’s hooves. Your farrier can leave the crevices beside the frog wide open, while paring away any obviously infected tissue. Then, pick out your horse’s feet every day, paying particular attention to the frog crevices. If thrush persists, treat it with a 50:50 bleach/water mixture. If you use a commercial application, consult your veterinarian—chemicals in these preparations can be harsh on hoof tissues.

— Eleanor M. Kellon, VMD

USRIDERCOMMUNITY TIP

If your horse gets thrush, pick out his feet every day, paying particular attention to the frog crevices, until the thrush has cleared up.

Become an EmergencyStabling Partner

Traveling with your horse is hard enough, but imagine traveling with your horses in an unfamiliar area when your vehicle breaks down or worse, you’re involved in an accident requiring overnight repairs and temporary shelter for your horses. Who would you call for assistance?

As a Member of USRider, you could count on fast, efficient help with one phone call. In addition to other unique benefits for the traveling equestrian, USRider provides emergency-stabling referrals for its Members.

To enhance this service, USRider is seeking to expand its existing database of emergency stabling facilities. Fellow equestrians in the United States and Canada are urged to assist in this effort. If you would be willing to provide fellow equestrians with emergency stabling on a case-by-case basis, click here to complete the online form.

Note: Because many of the stables in our directory aren’t commercial entities, our stabling directory is available exclusively to our Member Care Specialists when a Member has an emergency. (USRider doesn’t offer trip planning.)

USRider is seeking to expand its existing database of emergency-stabling facilities available for use by its Members.

Inclement-Weather Driving

Spring can be a beautiful time to travel with your horse, but this time of year is also notorious for inclement weather that can quickly sneak up on you, especially in higher altitudes. To better prepare, keep your eyes on the sky, and check the weather forecasts for developing weather conditions. If conditions really deteriorate, stay home. If you’re on the road, find a safe place to sit out the storm.

As a horse owner, you might get caught in inclement weather—such as driving rain, dense fog, slick mud, and light snow—despite your best efforts. Or, the need to be on the road (such as an emergency trip to the veterinarian) might outweigh challenging weather conditions. Here are 10 safe-driving tips to follow when you must haul your horse in inclement weather.

Spring is notorious for inclement weather, such as fog, that can quickly sneak up on you as you haul your horse, especially in higher altitudes.

1. Check the trailer brakes. Ensure your trailer brakes complement your tow-vehicles brakes; consult the manufacturer’s instructions.

2. Turn off the engine brake. In icy and wet conditions, turn off the compression release engine brake (also called a Jake brake), a mechanism installed on some diesel engines. Engine brakes slow the tow vehicle and trailer to minimize brake wear under dry conditions, but in slick conditions, they can lead to a trailer jackknife, since they slow the tow vehicle initially.

3. Position the electronic brake. Position the electronic brake where you can manually engage it via the thumb control.

4. Turn off cruise control. Turn off cruise control when hauling in all but the best of conditions; it can compromise manual control.

5. Turn on the lights. Leave your trailer and tow-vehicle lights on at all times, day and night.

6. Drive with a friend. It’s helpful to have a friend along to help you when driving in in risky road conditions. He or she can navigate, watch the road and weather conditions, check on your horse from the in-cab monitor, and guide you as you back up and maneuver in tight spots so you can concentrate just on driving.

7. Go slow. In hazardous conditions, go as slow as you need to. Run your hazard lights, if necessary. Let the rest of the traffic go around you—your top priority is the safety of you, your horse, and your passengers. Driving a trailer is no place for road rage or frustration to set in—take your time and breathe.

8. Be considerate. Turn on your hazard lights when you’re moving slower than the traffic around you; move into the right lane except to pass. (This is not only a safety precaution, it’s also the law.)

9. Brake smoothly. If you must brake hard, do so as smoothly as possible; use the trailer brakes to assist your tow vehicle.

10. Regain control. If you start to skid or slide, ease off the brakes immediately and steer into the direction of the skid to regain control. This reaction isn’t intuitive. Practice this skill until you react automatically.

— Rebecca Gimenez-Husted

As a horse owner, you might get caught in driving rain and slick conditions despite your best efforts to avoid such conditions.

USRider’s roadside assistance program provies 24/7 roadside assistance for any vehicle our members are traveling in, including tow vehicles and trailers carrying horses. If the unexpected happens, our members know they can call us anytime, day or night.

*Applies

WINCH-OUT COVERAGE ON DUAL-WHEELED VEHICLES

$5,000

Condition for Spring Rides

This spring, take time to condition your horse to get him ready for the busy travel season.

By Julie Goodnight with Heidi Melocco

Photos by Heidi Melocco

This spring, take time to condition your horse before you head out on long rides. A horse in average condition can usually handle a one- to two-hour trail ride on the weekends without too much stress. But for longer rides, start a conditioning routine as soon as the weather allows, especially if your horse

has been pasturing all winter.

When my horses are in conditioning programs, I like to think of ways I can boost my fitness, too. If you start walking, jogging, dancing, and just plain moving more, you’ll feel much better on your rides

Here are four steps to take to help your horse build strength and endurance.

This spring, take time to condition your horse before you head out on long rides. Start a conditioning routine as soon as the weather allows, especially if your horse has been pasturing all winter, says top trainer/clinician Julie Goodnight (right).

Step 1. Cue for Confidence

After a long winter, you and your horse might both be a little rusty when it comes to confident trail riding. As a herd and prey animal, your horse will tune into your emotions to find out whether the environment is safe. to help you build your confidence, and to help your horse build strength and endurance for your upcoming adventures.

Here are three things you can control to cue your horse to have confidence as he begins his conditioning program. If you control these components, you’ll positively affect your body, mind, and emotions, and stay in the moment.

• Control your eyes. Keep your eyes focused and scanning the environment.

This engages your mind and helps you stay in the moment, instead of worrying about what could happen. That way, you won’t panic by thinking too far ahead.

Step 2. Get Him Trail Hardened

Your horse needs to become “hardened” to the saddle, tack, saddlebags, and your weight. Like breaking in a new pair of shoes, he’ll need time to get reacclimated to the rub and feel of the saddle, breastcollar, and cinch. It’s not painful, but there’s some toughening that takes place.

Your horse will also need increasingly longer periods of time with you in the saddle. Weight-bearing conditioning helps him improve his balance and stamina, and helps get him in shape much more quickly than roundpen exercise or longeing. You’re building up to a long trail rides, so you’ll need to ride to get your horse in shape.

“ It usually takes 30 calendar days of a conditioning program before you’ll see physical changes in your horse. At that time, you can see how he’s looking and feeling, and raise your training goals.”

• Control your breathing. If you feel fear building, breathe with deep, abdominal breaths to calm yourself. Practice deep breathing before you need it, so that you can breathe slowly and with purpose.

• Check your body language. Are you tense and clamping on the reins? Are you leaning forward?

Convey confidence with your body language. If you’re calm, your horse will think he should be, as well.

If you’ll be riding your horse in the mountains, you’ll also have to condition him to hills, as well as walking on shifting rocks and through other challenging terrain. Also look for sandy areas to condition your horse. Sand builds condition and strength more than does solid ground. However, stay at a walk to avoid tendon injury.

Step 3. Start Slow

Schedule at least 90 calendar days of conditioning before your first big daylong ride. It usually takes 30 calendar days of a conditioning program before you’ll see physical changes in your horse. At that time, you can see how he’s looking and feeling, and

Cue your horse to have confidence as he begins his conditioning program. Keep your eyes focused and scanning the environment. This engages your mind and helps you stay in the moment.

For your horse to build up condition for long rides, he’ll need increasingly longer periods of time with you in the saddle, notes Julie Goodnight (shown). Weight-bearing conditioning helps him improve his balance and stamina.

If you’ll be riding your horse in the mountains, you’ll have to condition him to hills, as well as walking on shifting rocks and through other challenging terrain, says Julie Goodnight.

“By the end of 90 days, I’d expect a horse to be able to trot for almost the entire hour when we’re working on the flat,” says Julie Goodnight. “With that amount of ride time to boost his aerobic, strength, and weight-bearing conditioning, he should be ready for longer rides.”

raise your training goals.

If you’re like most people and have a busy schedule, start by riding your horse three days per week for the first 30 days. I suggest two weekdays with a rest day in between (say, Monday and Wednesday or Tuesday and Thursday), and one weekend day.

Alternate aerobic (oxygen-based) and strength conditioning, and work to get your horse “hardened” for the trail with increasingly longer weekend rides.

You’ll know your horse is working hard when you can see his nostrils dilate; stop and flex his neck to the side so that you can see. When he starts to breathe hard, push him just a little, then give him a break. You have to push so that you’ll get past what’s easy for him and make sure you’re progressing.

• During the week. Start by riding for one hour on each of the two workweek days. Begin riding at a marching walk on even ground. Alternate walking and trotting. (Long trotting is the best conditioning gait.) If you and your horse are really out of shape, start by walking for 50 minutes and trotting for 10. You can even break up the trotting time. As you progress, increase your trotting time as much as you feel you safely can. Be sure to plan a day of rest between ride—both you and your horse will need the recovery time.

• On the weekend. On your third riding day—a weekend day—plan a two-hour ride. Build in some strength conditioning. Ride up and down sloping hills; plan an easy trail ride with friends. If you can, ride on similar trail terrain you plan on tackling this spring.

Step 4. Increase Training Time

After your first 30 days is up, I suggest

adding in a fourth riding day if your schedule allows.

• On Day 1, ride for an hour and long trot.

• On Day 2, I’d suggest one hour of hill work (trotting or walking up and down—both directions are beneficial).

• On Day 3, go back to long trotting on the flat.

• On Day 4, gradually increase your time on the trail; ride on varying terrain for two to three, then three to four hours.

By the end of 90 days, I’d expect a horse to be able to trot for almost the entire hour when we’re working on the flat. With that amount of ride time to boost his aerobic, strength, and weight-bearing conditioning, he should be ready for longer rides. Of course, you know your horse best and know when to ask for more.

If you don’t have time to condition your horse as much as is suggested, plan shorter rides. No matter what your schedule, I’m confident that you and your horse can find a beneficial conditioning plan that will fit your schedules and be enjoyable for all. USR

Julie Goodnight trains horses and coaches horse owners to be ready for any event, on the trail or in the performance arena. After producing the popular RFD-TV series, Horse Master with Julie Goodnight, for 11 years, Goodnight now shares the world of horses through 2Horse Productions, and through appearances at clinics and horse expos throughout the United States. She also hosts her monthly horse training podcast, Ride On with Julie Goodnight.

Heidi Melocco is a riding instructor, photographer, and writer based in Mead, Colorado.

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Fix Farm Hazards

Spend time this spring to minimize the various hazards found on your horse property.

By Barbara Sheridan, Equine Guelph

Often, horse owners feel their beloved equines are simply a magnet for injuries. Being accident prone just seems to be in their nature, most times brought on by their instinctive fight-or-flight response, their need to establish herd hierarchy, and in some cases, their sense of natural curiosity.

Spend time this spring to minimize the various hazards found on your property through identification and removal, and you’ll be one step closer to making your barn and property safer for your horse and eliminate any potential accidents that may occur.

“There is no such thing as an accident, they are only incidents,” says Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD, primary instructor

Spend time this spring to minimize the various hazards found on your property through identification and removal, and you’ll be one step closer to making your barn and property safer for your horse and eliminate any potential accidents that may occur.

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

Regularly check both sides of your fences and fence posts for any sharp protrusions such as nails, screws, or metal with which horses could catch themselves or become tangled in.

and president of Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue Inc. “No matter how unfortunate the situation, looking back, something somewhere probably could have prevented it from happening in the first place.”

Dr. Gimenez-Husted provides training in technical animal rescue techniques, procedures, and methodologies across the United States internationally. She recommends that horse and facility owners become educated in both prevention and safety in order to identify any possible hazards and take the appropriate action beforehand to help offset an emergency visit from your veterinarian or even worse, having to resort to calling 911.

“The issue is usually having enough knowledge to understand where these hazardous problems lie and to act on them,” says GimenezHusted.

Here, we’ll go over horse-property hazards, hidden hazards, and highrisk factors so that you might better be able to identify and eliminate each one.

Horse-Property Hazards

Farm properties can commonly become a catch-all for clutter and various safety hazards. Make it a habit

A properly ventilated barn encourages correct airflow movement that expels stale air, and pushes chemicals odors, such as ammonia, out of the barn and allows fresh air to enter.

to walk the property and be on the lookout for anything that could pose a problem should a horse connect with it. If you are unable to tackle any of the potential hazards immediately, make note of your findings so that they are not forgotten. (For a complete list of identifying hazards on the farm, click here.)

Watch for sharp edges. Keep an eye out for any sharp edges or protruding items such as nails, screws, torn metal, etc.

Store equipment. Farm and maintenance equipment such as mowers, bailers, and harrows, should all be stored away in its proper place.

Dispose of debris. Dispose of any clutter or debris that has been collecting along fence lines, laneways, or around the barn. Collect any discarded round bale netting or binder twine—it’s surprising how some horses like to munch on this.

Fill holes. Walk your pastures, and fill in any holes to help prevent torn ligaments or a broken leg.

Watch for toxic plants. Keep a look out for any potentially poisonous or toxic plants, such as red maple, tansy ragwort, nightshade, cocklebur, etc. A hungry horse without adequate pasture or hay will eat anything. Inspect not only your grazing field, but your hay, as well.

Hidden Hazards

Dusts, fumes, and vapors are hidden hazards that can have long-term effects on respiratory health for both horses and the humans who work around them. Poor ventilation can contribute to allergies and respiratory ailments including recurrent airway obstruction (RAO), better known as heaves.

“We’ve all been in barns during cold weather, where all the doors and windows are closed up tight,” notes Dr. Gimenez-Husted. “And this comes down to human comfort. We’re cold, so we think the horses are cold and close everything up. Without proper ventilation, the horses breathe in all that dust and ammonia. This is an unseen hazard that a lot of people don’t think about.”

A properly ventilated barn encourages correct airflow movement that expels stale air, and pushes chemicals odors, such as ammonia, out of the barn and allows fresh air to enter.

“I’ve seen people spend $100,000 on a new barn and put in cheap $10 box fans, which are also a huge fire hazard,” continues Dr. GimenezHusted. “Why didn’t they spend a bit extra and install overhead fans? Or bring in a ventilation expert to look at their place and evaluate a proper

ventilation system that can release the fumes and help improve the air quality in that barn?”

High Risk Factors

Statistics show that the two most common emergencies affecting horse owners are trailer wrecks and barn fires, notes Dr. Gimenez-Husted. This

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

Keep a look out for any potentially poisonous or toxic plants, such as red maple, tansy ragwort, nightshade, cocklebur, etc. A hungry horse without adequate pasture or hay will eat anything.

is followed by entrapment-type emergency situations where the horse is stuck in mud or icy water, tangled in fences, or other around-the-farm situations where they become trapped and cannot remove themselves.

While a necessity, fencing is also a major contributor to hazards on the farm and inspection should be done as part of your daily routine. Don’t forget to check both sides of your fencing and look for any protruding nails or wire, rotting posts, loose boards, dropped gates, etc.

“Make a habit of checking your fences regularly,” says Dr. GimenezHusted. “Not only can your horses injure themselves on broken boards or wires, but it only takes a stiff wind

or the snow being so deep that the horses can just step over them, and then they’re loose. And a panicky, loose horse on the run can then open up a whole new set of emergency situations.”

Another danger that Dr. GimenezHusted warns of is housing horses in fields with ponds in freezing temperatures. There have been numerous incidents where a horse will walk out across a snow-covered pond and fall through the ice into freezing water. Sometimes it doesn’t end well.

“Accidents involving horses can happen anywhere, anytime, and it’s an unfortunate fact that many could have been prevented.”

Equine Response Unit in the Kansas City area had the horrifically tragic and difficult job of retrieving the bodies of three young horses out of a pond after they fell through the ice and drowned,” she says. “I can’t stress it enough, people have to fence off their ponds and keep them out of mud, ice, and water.”

Handle Hazards Now

If you’re not able to relocate your horses to another area of the property, ensure that ponds are fenced off with some form of temporary fencing before they freeze over.

“One December, the Emergency

Accidents involving horses can happen anywhere, anytime, and it’s an unfortunate fact that many could have been prevented. By taking the time to identify and correct any hazards that may be found on your property, you’ll be in a better position to prevent any possible injuries that can arise. This saves aggravation on not only your horses, but also your pocketbook.

“I can’t stress it enough, take the time to educate yourself on accident prevention and maintain your facilities so as to minimize injury to your horses,” says Dr. Gimenez-Husted. “They will thank you for it.”

Equine Guelph is the horse owners’ and care givers’ Centre at the University of Guelph. It is a unique partnership dedicated to the health and well-being of horses, supported and overseen by equine industry groups. Equine Guelph is the epicenter for academia, industry, and government for the good of the equine industry as a whole. For further information, visit www.EquineGuelph.ca . To sign up for their free e-newsletter, click here.

Dispose of any clutter or debris that has been collecting along fence lines, laneways, or around the barn.

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Create a Comfy Horse Camp

Here are 10 ways you can enhance your and horse’s comfort on camping trips.

By Audrey Pavia

Going camping with your horse is a blast. Nothing makes a camping trip more special than enjoying the great outdoors with your equine friend.

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

As you plan your horse-camping getaway, look for camps that provide paddocks or corrals for guest horses. Some facilities even provide stall space in a cozy barn. Your horse will appreciate freedom to move around, lie down, and even roll, rather being tied to your trailer or on a highline.

Going camping with your horse is a blast. Nothing makes a camping trip more special than enjoying the great outdoors with your equine friend. You likely know horse-camping basics, but by adding some special elements, you can create an even more comfortable, cozy, and workable camp for you and your horse. Here are 10 ways to enhance your camping experience.

1. Paddock or corral. As you plan your horse-camping getaway, look for camps that provide paddocks or corrals for guest horses. Some facilities even provide stall space in a cozy barn. Your horse will appreciate freedom to move around, lie down, and even roll, rather being tied to your trailer or on a highline. If your chosen campground doesn’t include such facilities, bring your own portable corral. Several types of portable corrals are available. The most popular are panel corrals, which can be folded up or disassembled and strapped to a trailer roof rack, or stowed in a truck bed. Panel corrals are a secure way to contain a horse when you’re camping. You can make

If your chosen campground doesn’t include corrals or paddocks, bring your own portable corral or electric fencing to enhance your horse’s comfort overnight.

the corral larger or smaller, depending on how may panels you use.

Portable electric fencing is another option. Battery-supplied power running through tape keeps horses inside the perimeter of the fence. The downside of electric fencing is that some horses disregard the electrical shock and push right through the tape barrier.

2. Long lead rope. If you do plan to tie your horse to the trailer overnight, it’s best to use a lead rope that’s at least 14 feet long. (The lead rope from Downunder Horsemanship, developed by clinician Clinton Anderson, works well.) By tying this rope at the proper length, your horse will able to lie down at night to sleep. Check around your trailer to make sure your horse can’t get the rope caught on any objects. Wheel wells can be a hazard; protect them with wheel-well covers or duct tape to prevent the rope from getting caught under the cover.

When tying the lead rope to the trailer, use a safety knot as you would with any lead rope. Tip: Before snapping the lead rope to your horse’s halter, let the snap dangle toward the

ground. Raise or lower the amount of rope so the clip hangs two inches from the ground. This is a safe length.

3. Horse blanket. Even if your horse doesn’t wear a blanket at home, bring a blanket along when you camp. Horses that are tied to a trailer or confined in a small paddock are unable to move around to keep warm, so they need the extra warmth that a blanket can provide. If you’re camping in winter and your horse has a thick winter coat, provide him with a light blanket. A light blanket will also work if you’re camping in the summertime if the nights will be cool and damp.

Blanket your horse as soon as the sun starts to set. Keeping your horse warm through the night will not only add to his comfort, but also will leave him better rested and limber for the next day’s adventures.

4. Slow feeder. When you set your horse up at your trailer or in a portable corral, consider a slow-feeder bag, such as the Nibblenet. A slow feeder will help keep your horse from eating his hay too quickly and spilling much of it on the ground. By having to work to remove hay from the net,

PHOTO BY KENT AND CHARLENE KRONE

Several types of portable corrals are available. The most popular are panel corrals, which can be disassembled and stowed in

If you plan to tie your horse to the trailer or on a highline overnight, it’s best to use a lead rope that’s at least 14 feet long. By tying this rope at this length, your horse will able to lie down at night to sleep.

When you set your horse up at your trailer or in a portable corral, consider a slow-feeder bag, such as the Nibblenet. A slow feeder will help keep your horse from eating his hay too quickly and spilling much of it on the ground.

he’ll be kept occupied for much of the time he’s confined, reducing the amount of pawing, pulling against the trailer, and generally being destructive. Get a hay bag large enough to hold at least two flakes of hay, so you can provide your horse with plenty of feed through the night. That way, he’ll be fully fed when you get up in the morning, and you won’t need to wait for him to finish his breakfast before hitting the trail.

5. Bucket holder. You can come up with a variety of ways of securing your horse’s water bucket to the trailer or paddock, but the easiest and most effective is a bucket holder. It’s nearly impossible for horses to tip over a bucket that is secured with a bucket holder. Bucket holders come in different styles, including the type that bolts to the side of the trailer and then clips onto the bucket, as well as a metal ring style that the bucket slides into. Bucket holders work with different size buckets. For overnight camping, a 20-quart, flat-backed bucket is recommended, especially if your horse will have access to hay overnight. Keep in mind that the bigger the bucket, the fewer times you’ll have to fill it up.

6. Five-gallon water jug. If your trailer doesn’t come with a water tank, consider purchasing a five-gallon water jug to bring with you on camping trips. By filling up the jug before you leave for your trip, you may reduce the number of times you’ll travel to a water source to fill up your horse’s water bucket. If you’ll be spending more than one night camping with your horse, you’ll probably have to fill up your five-gallon jug a time or two. Make it easy on yourself by bringing along a hand truck or luggage cart to haul the jug from the water source back to your trailer or campsite. Before you head

home, fill up your jug one more time to give your horse water on the road.

7. Portable horse washer. If you’ll be camping in warm weather, invest in a horse washer, such as one available from Decker’s Hot Camp Showers This portable horse-bathing system provides warm water on the spot, allowing you to hose off your equine partner after a long, hot ride. You can also use it to hose down your dog after he gets into the mud, and even yourself if you’re feeling particularly grungy. You’ll need to pack a garden horse and spray nozzle along with the Horse Washer, as these items are necessary but not included.

8. Antihistamines. You never know when you or your horse will have an allergic reaction while camping. Whether it’s biting insects or some type of pollen-laden plant, your horse could end up with hives, and you could suffer a debilitating allergy attack. Consult with your veterinarian on the best over-the-counter antihistamine for your horse. Take this with you on every camping trip. The dose for horses is 250mg per day (this dosage usually comes out to 10 pills); the human dose is listed on the packaging. If you bring tablets for equine use, you’ll need to crush them and add them to sweet feed, or hide them inside carrots or horse cookies to get your horse to eat them. Or, use the quick-dissolving strips. These can be sandwiched between two horse cookies. Get the ones with vanilla flavoring if you can, or one of the fruit flavors.

9. Air mattress. Whether you’re sleeping in the back of your truck, the floor of your trailer, or inside a tent, you should have a good air mattress to cushion you from the ground. Although camping departments sell a variety of roll-up mats meant to provide a comfortable sleep, nothing

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

a truck bed.

PHOTO BY KENT AND CHARLENE KRONE

works as well for a cozy night of camping like an air mattress. An air mattress will keep you high enough off the ground to allow you to stay warm and will provide plenty of support for your joints. Invest in a mattress with a suede finish on the sleeping side for warmth. Also look for a mattress that comes with an air pump, for inflating ease. Some pumps are battery-operated, while others plug into your towing vehicle’s electrical outlet. Take along a patching kit in case your air mattress starts to leak.

Whether you’re sleeping in the back of your truck, the floor of your trailer, or inside a tent, you should have a good air mattress to cushion you from the ground.

10. Zero-rated sleeping bag. Horses aren’t the only ones who need to be

kept warm on camping trips. Skip the cheap sleeping bags you buy at discount stores, and invest in a zero-rated bag from a sporting-goods store. A zero-rated bag will keep you comfortable in temperatures well below

freezing. Even moderately cool nights in the 40s can be too cold for a cheap, high-temperature-rated bag. Down sleeping bags are the warmest and most comfortable of all zero-rated bags, although less-expensive polyfill bags can also do the job. The cons of a down bag are that they’re more expensive and can take a long time to dry if they get wet. Polyfill bags, while less expensive, take up more room in your storage space. USR

Audrey Pavia is an award-winning equine journalist and competitive trail rider based in Norco, California.

Zahl, North Dakota

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

Equine First-Aid Kit

Here’s a list of must-have items for your equine first-aid kit, along with treatment tips.

By Shawn Hamilton with Laurel Gould

While traveling with your horse, there are a number of items that your first-aid kit should always contain. Here’s what you need to know.

If your horse suffers an illness or injury, call a veterinarian as soon as you can, and follow his or her advice. If you need to, trailer your horse to a local vet for treatment.

When traveling with your horse, there are a number of items that your equine first-aid kit should always contain. Here, we’ll first supply you with a few first-aid-kit tips. Then we’ll provide a checklist of items to include in your kit. We’ll also tell you how to use nonsteroidal, anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). Finally, we’ll give you a wound/major-injury treatment flow chart and a first-aid checklist for yourself.

Tip: Keep a cell phone on you to call a veterinarian for advice or to make an appointment. You might not always have cell service, but it’s wise to have a charged cell phone with you at all times.

Important: If your traveling horse suffers an illness or injury, call a veterinarian as soon as you can, and follow his or her advice. If you need to, trailer your horse to a local vet for treatment.

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

First-Aid Kit Tips

Place the first-aid items in a lightweight, sealable, moisture-proof container, such as a plastic or metal toolkit or fishing tackle box. Look for an easy-to-find bright color. Write “FIRST AID” on the top and sides of the kit with a permanent marker. Keep the kit in an easily accessible spot; retrieving the kit from a locked truck or trailer will waste valuable time.

Place the first-aid items in a lightweight, sealable, moisture-proof container, such as a plastic or metal toolkit or fishing tackle box.

If you go trail riding, use a soft, small kit that will fit into your saddlebag. Hard kits may be difficult to squeeze into the saddlebags and contents may rattle while you ride. Inside the kit, use zip-close, seethrough bags to keep items dry, organized, and easily visible.

First-Aid Checklist

■ Pen and paper. Use to jot down instructions from the veterinarian, write down your horse’s vital signs, and list phone numbers you may need to call in case of an emergency.

For the trails, use a soft, small kit that will fit into your saddlebag. Hard kits may be difficult to squeeze into the saddlebags and contents may rattle while you ride.

■ Blindfold/black bra. Use to cover your horse’s eyes when giving injections, or for any other situations that might cause him to panic.

■ Equine thermometer. Attach a string on the end of the thermometer for easy removal.

■ Vaseline or other lubricant. Use when inserting the thermometer.

■ Stethoscope. Use to take your horse’s heart rate and to listen to his gut sounds to help detect possible colic.

■ Bach Rescue Remedy Pet. Use this equine herbal calming remedy for trailering, excitement, or accidents. Use instead of stronger calming agents, so you can ride directly after consumption. Find it on www.bachrescueremedypet. com.

■ Sterile gloves. Use to protect yourself from transfer of infection when treating your horse’s wounds.

■ Hand sanitizer. Use before and after you give your horse first-aid, even if you wear gloves, as extra protection against infection.

>>

Human First-Aid Kit

Here is a list of basic items to be included into a first-aid kit for humans. Inside the kit, use zip-close, seethrough bags to keep individual items dry, organized, and easily visible.

■ Any required medications

■ Sterile gauze pads of various sizes

■ Adhesive bandages in various sizes

■ 1 roll of adhesive tape

■ 1 roll of roller gauze

■ 3 triangular bandages (to make slings/hold bandages in place)

■ 1 roll of Vetrap™

■ Antiseptic wipes

■ Hand sanitizer

■ Scissors (sharp, blunt nosed)

■ Safety pins

■ Instant ice pack

■ Disposable, latex-free gloves

■ Silver-foil emergency blanket

■ Quick Relief Blood Stop Powder

■ Barrier device (pocket mask)

■ Small bottle of water (to rinse wounds or to add to sugar to assist with a diabetic emergency)

■ Sugar packets (in case of diabetic emergency)

■ Aspirin tablets (to thin blood in the event of chest pain)

■ Antihistamine (to treat allergic reactions)

■ Antiseptic packets

■ Paint stir sticks (to make a splint or to use as kindling)

■ Small candles

■ Waterproof matches

■ Flashlight/batteries

■ Protein bar

■ Pocketknife

■ Fox 40 whistle (to signal position if lost or injured; to purchase, click here)

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

FIRST-AID FLOW CHART

First-aid can be broken down in two parts, wounds and major injury. Wounds can include bruising, bleeding, or puncture. For bruising, your main goal is to provide comfort and preventive methods for further injury, such as cooling and wrapping.

If your horse is bleeding, your primary goal is to stop the bleeding by applying pressure. If your horse has suffered a puncture wound, your highest priority is to flush and clean the wound site to help prevent infection.

WOUND FLOW CHART

WOUND Bruise

Provide Comfort; Prevent Further Injury

Bleeding Puncture

Stop Bleeding; Clean; Protect

Flush; Clean; Protect

Major injuries are either systemicor physical. Systemic injuries include poisoning, colic, laminitis, heat stroke, and shock. Physical injuries include sprains, breaks, inflammation, and major cuts.

For systemic injuries, your top priority is to reduce swelling and pain, maintain normal vital signs, promote normal bodily functions, and provide comfort. This usually involves administering a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug and often requires veterinary attention.

For physical injuries, your top priority is to stop the bleeding, reduce swelling and pain, and provide comfort.

MAJOR INJURY FLOW CHART

MAJOR INJURY

Systemic

Poison; Colic; Laminitis; Shock; Heat Stroke

Reduce Swelling and Pain; Maintain Normal Vital Signs; Promote Normal Bodily Functions; Provide Comfort

Physical

Sprain; Break; Inflammation; Major Cut

Stop Bleeding; Reduce Swelling and Pain; Provide Comfort

Keep your first-aid kit organized so you will be able to quickly find items in an emergency.

■ Sterile gauze. Use to apply pressure and to provide a wound barrier under a wrap.

■ Sanitary napkins/diapers. Use as a sterile, compact bandage to cover an injury, apply pressure, and where absorption is necessary. Use to absorb excessive blood. If necessary, layer the pads/diapers, and cover with Vetrap.

■ Poultice pad. Pads with built-in poultice are small and convenient; just add water. Use on stone bruises, abscess, etc., to draw out heat. Use also to cushion and cool feet and legs.

■ Vetrap™. Use this all-purpose adhesive to provide coverage for all types of bandaging. It’s compact, stretchable, and sticks to itself.

■ Duct tape. Used for wrapping where a stronger hold and waterproofing is necessary, such as for a poultice or foot wrap for an abscess. Use to cover and protect Vetrap.

■ Electrical tape. Electrical tape is more elastic than duct tape and provides a little give when using it to secure a wrap. Electrical tape is easy to apply, compact for traveling, and >>

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

sticks quite well to itself even in cold weather.

■ Cold packs. Use to reduce swelling. Small, soft-sided packs will fit into your travel kit.

■ Coarse salt. Use to soak a hoof abscess.

■ Alcohol wipes. Use for cleaning and sterilizing a wound.

■ Betadine or Hibitane Scrub. Look for portable sample sizes in which the ointment is pre-applied. The scrub brush and ointment come in one unit; use for debriding a wound and removing dead tissue.

■ First-aid cream. Use any type of antibacterial wound cream to promote healing and protect the wound from outside infection.

■ Zinc oxide. Use for sunburns and scratches.

■ Eye ointment*. Use for eye wounds. Use a nonsteroidal ointment if you’re not sure whether the eye has been scratched.

■ Fly ointment. Apply around a treated wound to protect it from flies. Use an ointment formulated for wounds, such as Farnam’s SWAT Fly Ointment, available from Smart Pak Equine (888/864-8147; www.smartpakequine.com).

■ Hoof pick. Use a folding one that fits in your pocket or saddlebag. Use it to pick out stones and debris from your horse’s hooves.

■ Small flashlight. Use to check areas that might be dark and difficult to see, such as in-between your horse’s legs, or inside his mouth.

■ Scissors. Use round-ended surgical scissors with no sharp points to cut tape and wrap.

■ Tweezers. Use to remove splinters, stingers, and thorns.

■ Wire cutters. Use to cut your horse out of wire.

■ Sharp knife. Choose a folding pocket knife designed for traveling with a blade sharp enough to cut rope and leather, in case you need to cut your horse out of his halter.

■ Tick remover. Include if you’ll be staying or riding in an area where ticks are found.

A Word on NSAIDs

Flunixin meglumine (brand name Banamine) andphenylbutazone (brand name Butazolidin, often called Bute) are nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) commonly kept in equine first-aid kits to help combat pain and inflammation. However, only administer these drugs under the supervision of your veterinarian. Here’s a brief rundown on each drug.

Banamine. Banamine is used for inflammation and pain

caused by musculoskeletal disorders, but is most commonly used for pain associated with colic. It’s available in paste or granule form for oral use, and as an injectable. Veterinarians give the injectable form of the drug intravenously. Never inject Banamine into the muscle, as muscle damage can lead to a condition called clostridial myositis, which can be fatal.

Flunixin meglumine (brand name Banamine) and phenylbutazone (brand name Butazolidin, often called Bute) are nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) commonly kept in equine first-aid kits to help combat pain and inflammation. However, only administer these drugs under the supervision of your veterinarian.

Downsides: Although Banamine is given for colic pain, be aware that Banamine may hide symptoms of a more severe colic case. It can also cause gastrointestinal side effects, including gastric and colonic ulcers, and can create kidney problems in young, old, and ill or dehydrated horses.

Butazolidin. Butazoladin is used for pain relief caused by infections, as well as musculoskeletal disorders, such as sprains, strains, tendonitis, arthritis, and laminitis. Bute comes in a powder and paste for oral use, as well as an injectable form. Like Banamine, Bute should be injected intravenously, never into the muscle.

Downsides: Bute may mask the signs of mild or moderate lameness, worsening a fracture and is much less effective than Banamine for colic pain. Like Banamine, Bute can cause gastrointestinal issues. Young horses may not be able to process Bute. USR

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

Explore State Parks

State parks tend to be overshadowed by our country’s flashier national parks, but don’t overlook these gems. Many state parks offer equal beauty, serenity, equestrian trails, and horse-friendly campgrounds. Shown is the view of Lake Coeur d’Alene from the eastside trail in Idaho’s Heyburn State Park.

This spring, consider a state park destination. Here, we take you to our nearby gems in Montana and Idaho.

Story and Photos by Kent & Charlene

Not all equestrian adventures require trailering hundreds of miles and interstate travel. State parks tend to be overshadowed by our country’s flashier national parks, but don’t overlook these gems. Many state parks offer equal beauty, serenity, equestrian trails, and horse-friendly campgrounds. Spring is the perfect time to investigate the state parks in your area. Here, we’ll tell you about three of our favorite state parks—one near our Montana ranch (Bannack) and two near our former home in Idaho (Farragut and Heyburn).

Bannack State Park

The town of Bannack was born when Montana hit its first big gold strike in 1862. In 1864, Bannack was named as the first Territorial Capital of Montana. Today, the ghost town of Bannack is managed as Bannack State Park. Sixty buildings stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era. Before hitting the trails, walk the dirt streets of Bannack, and look inside the weathered buildings.

To ride in the park, turn right before entering town. You can park your rig on the far side of town in the large parking lot. From this staging area, we went on two rides. Our first ride took us south of town and cross-country. We traveled over open hills, enjoying vistas of valleys and mountain ranges.

On our second ride, we followed the map the park manager gave us. Some of the trail followed the old stagecoach route from Bannack to Virginia City. You can follow the trail or go cross-country to explore ridges and valleys. We rode cross-country, keeping our eyes open for wildlife and old mining ruins.

Farragut State Park

Farragut State Park, located in northern Idaho, comprises 4,000 acres. The equestrian campground has six sites, plus corrals, an arena, and a day-use area. There are no hookups, but water is available. Make campground reservations in advance, especially if you plan to stay over a weekend.

The area north of Idaho State Highway 54 is open to trail riding. There’s a perimeter trail with interconnecting trails and a popular buggy trail. Trails loop over grassy plains, dense ponderosa forests, and gentle hills. Bear, deer, elk, and moose frequent the area.

On our last ride, we rode over to Friendship Circle, a circle of tall pine poles. The poles were installed during the World Scout Jamboree held in the park in 1967.

Bannack State Park offers hilly terrain with views of valleys and mountain ranges. Shown is Robber’s Roost north of Bannack.

Before

hitting the trails, walk the dirt streets of the ghost town of Bannack, and look inside the weathered buildings.

Left: In Idaho’s Farragut State Park, trails loop over grassy plains, dense ponderosa forests, and gentle hills. Bear, deer, elk, and moose frequent the area.Right: The equestrian campground has six sites, plus corrals, an arena, and a day-use area. Shown are the corrals at the horse campground.

Kent Krone’s Missouri Fox Trotter gelding, Cowboy, checks out a Heyburn State Park trail sign.

Heyburn State Park

South of Farragut is Heyburn State Park, the oldest park in the Pacific Northwest and one of the largest state parks in Idaho.

About one-third of the park’s 7,838 acres consists of water: Benewah Lake, Hidden Lake, Chatcolet Lake, and a portion of the St. Joe River. Initially, park rangers were primarily concerned with dock facilities, recreational campgrounds, and picnic areas. Little attention was given to trail riders’ needs.

Charlene Krone on the Heyburn State Park trails. In this park, Western red cedars provide shade and perfume the air.

Then along came Don West, a ranger who spent countless hours planning and creating new trails, as well as improving old ones. On the park’s east side, Don built 17½ miles of new trails. He also did substantial work on the west and east equestrian campgrounds.

We rode two days. The first day, we rode the park’s east side. The new trail that Don built (a loop with cross-cuts) snakes up and down tree-covered ridges. Western red cedars formed cool, shady canopies and perfumed the air with a piney fragrance. At our lunch spot, we looked out on two blue lakes, with the St. Joe River running through them.

Riding above Lake Coeur d’Alene on the Heyburn State Park trail system.

The next day, we rode the park’s west side. We began at park headquarters and headed toward Indian Cliffs. We ate lunch here, tying our horses to the hitching rails that Don had installed.

Trees are an important part of Heyburn State Park. In the 1930s and ’40s, the Civilian Conservation Corps Civilian planted so many trees here, they were called the Tree Army. Some of the trees flourish in moist shade; others prefer dry, sunny slopes.

Charlene and Kent Krone overlook Lake Coeur d’Alene in Heyburn State Park.

Consider doing your own state park research. Get acquainted with your local park rangers. Plant seeds, and help them grow. To find a state park in your area, go to America’s State Parks. USR

Seasoned equestrian travelers Kent and Charlene Krone combine their interest in photojournalism with a passion for horses. They enjoy sharing their horseback adventures and equestrian-travel tips with fellow enthusiasts.

The Great Outdoors

Organic Fly Spray

EcoSMART Horse Fly Spray from Pro-Tech Livestock Corp. is an organic insecticide that uses botanical natural defense mechanisms against insect attack. It kills and repels stable flies, horseflies, deer flies, face flies, houseflies, and horn flies, as well as mosquitoes and gnats. The fresh botanical fragrance comes from a revolutionary blend of patented organic plant oils. EcoSMART is safe to use around people and other animals, and won’t cause irritation.

Collapsible Water Pail

Water your horse anytime, anywhere with Cashel’s Collapsible Water Pail. This handy bucket is easy to pack and small enough to fit anywhere when collapsed. The Collapsible Pail is made of tough, waterproof material that’s extremely durable.

Portable Corral

For easy horsekeeping, Travel N Corrals’ lightweight panels will allow you to build a double 13-by-13-foot round stall right next to your trailer in less than 15 minutes. The panels measure seven feet long and four feet high, and are built from one-inch galvanized round-steel tubing for durability. All joints are welded for strength. A gate can be made wherever the panels interlock by simply removing the pin. Also available are 13-by-13-foot, 16-by16-foot, and 18-by-18-foot single corrals.

Folding Lantern

Powerful and portable, the Energizer LED Folding Lantern with Light Fusion Technology is a compact light with a mighty shine. Perfect for outdoor entertaining, the lantern runs on four or eight AA batteries, allowing you the option to use fewer batteries or achieve a longer run time. This water-resistant light will last up to 100 hours. The light panel pivots open for 360 degrees of powerful light, and closes flat for easy storage and safe transport. Smart Dimming Technology allows you to customize the brightness.

Horse-Health Discounts

As a USRider Member, you can enjoy money-saving discounts from nationally recognized equine retailers. Enjoy special deals on items for horse, rider, and enthusiast, including tack, apparel, veterinary supplies, equestrian gifts and jewelry, equine publications, and more!

If you’re a USRider Member, please log in to access exclusive discount codes. Not a Member? Join today! With so many discounts, you can easily save the cost of your annual membership fee, and more! This issue, we spotlight Horse Health. For more information on each of these companies, and for more Member discounts, click here.

Arenus

Developed by veterinarians and nutritionists, and supported by a team of animal health specialists, Arenus products deliver more than what you think your animal could be receiving; they provide what your animal needs, whether healthy or ill. This is because Arenus is centered on the core belief of supporting complete animal-care solutions with deep passion and exact science. USRider Members receive a 10% discount on their Sore No-More line of products.

EquiMedic USA

EquiMedic USA, Inc. is the world leader in the design and manufacture of equine first-aid kits. They feature 12 complete kits; a build-your-own function; well-designed soft-sided first-aid bags and hard cases; and hundreds of equine first-aid refill/restocking and optional supplies. Specialized first-aid kits include basic, barn, trail riding, trailering, professional, human only, and wound care. These user-friendly, fully-outfitted first-aid kits will help you be prepared for horse and human emergency health care needs.

USRider Members receive a 15% discount on EquiMedic USA’s two trailering equine first aid kits; both are specifically designed to be kept in horse trailers.

Med-Vet Pharmaceuticals

Med-Vet Pharmaceuticals has been providing performance-focused supplements to the equine industry for more than 35 years. MVP provides the highest level of quality, potency, and purity to help support overall health and performance. MVP is a certified member of the National Animal Supplement Council, which means products meet regulated compliance and quality standards set by the NASC. USRider Members receive a 10% discount on online orders.

Omega Fields

Your horses can count on Omega Fields’ Omega-3 rich, stabilized flax supplements and treats to help restore cracked, brittle hooves; help prevent sand colic; alleviate stiff, immobile joints; soothe aching muscles; relieve skin problems; and promote a shiny, healthy coat. USRider Members receive a 15% discount on all purchases from Omega Fields.

Tenda Horse Products

Tenda Horse Products has been developing and manufacturing safe and effective products to promote and improve the overall health, soundness, performance, and overall well-being of equine athletes. The use of top-quality raw ingredients and steadfast attention to detail during the manufacturing process ensures that the highest quality and consistency is achieved with all products that leave the facility. Products include nutritional supplements, leg and muscle care, healing salves, wound care, hoof care, poultices, and grooming supplies. USRider Members receive a 10% discount on Tenda’s complete line of products.

USRider Member Testimonials

Sharon Gray and her Morgan, Yankee, at Dragon’s Lair Farm in Newberry Florida. “Being a woman who travels alone most of the time, it’s a great feeling not to be helpless,” says Gray of her USRider membership.

Courteous & Caring

‘A Great Feeling’

Each time I’ve had to call USRider, the one thing that always impresses me is how they answer the phone. They don’t say, “USRider, how may I help you?” They ask, “Are you and your horses safe?” Then they keep calling back to make sure I’m being well taken care of, that the service providers have shown up, etc. By having a USRider membership, I no longer feel like I’m on my own and alone when I run into problems on the road. I know that help is only as far away as the phone! And being a woman who travels alone most of the time, it’s a great feeling not to be helpless. Thank you, USRider! Keep up the great work.

— Sharon Gray

We’ve needed to use USRider’s services on a number of occasions—once when we didn’t even have the horses with us—and we’ve always received the same courteous, caring results. We’re 100 percent satisfied with our membership, and the USRider staff has always been 100 percent professional. This means a lot to us, because traveling with animals on an interstate or in an unfamiliar area can be very stressful. Sometimes, just knowing that you have people waiting to help you can really make a difference in your trip. Thank you, USRider!

— Carolyn and David Chapman

“A few weeks before a summer weekend eventing rally, there were some indications of trouble,” says Katrina Muga of her tow vehicle, shown here. “Anyone who’s owned or driven an old truck/ trailer rig knows the feeling—the sense that if anything bad can happen, it will!”

“We’re active competitors and volunteers with the North American Trail Ride Conference, and always look forward to these events,” note USRider Members Carolyn and David Chapman of Gulf Shores, Alabama.

‘Happy Ending’

Our happy ending never would’ve been possible without the services of our USRider membership. Literally, within a few minutes of contacting them, we had a process in place to successfully handle the ordeal of a highway breakdown that could have had serious repercussions. We’re so thankful that we had the foresight to sign up with USRider so that we’d have the membership when we needed it. This motor plan gives us confidence as we travel to rallies and Pony Club lessons, assuring us that should anything happen along the way, USRider is just a call away.

—Katrina and David Muga

USRider arranged to have Sharon Gray’s truck repaired after it failed to start as she was on her way home from her trainer’s farm.

The Chapmans travel long distances to compete in NATRC events, and depend on USRider to provide a safety net on the road. Shown is Carolyn Chapman competing in a NATRC event.

Katrina Muga and her 9-year-old Thoroughbred, Tally. “We’re so thankful that we had the foresight to sign up with USRider so that we’d have the policy when we needed it,” she says.

LINDA TOUPS PHOTO

LINDA TOUPS PHOTO

Emergency Trailer Supplies

Here are the emergency supplies to keep handy whenever you trailer your horse. Only enter your trailer to help your horse if your trailer is upright, intact, and safe, and your horse is calm. Extinguish any fires if you can do so safely.

■ Cellphone. Charge your cellphone fully before you leave, and pack a charger. Consider setting up a mobile hotspot, so you can get service via the Internet even when you can’t get cell-phone service. Check with your mobile-service provider for details.

■ Eight to ten emergency flares. Flares help others see your rig when you’re stopped for an issue or accident. Place at least three flares to get attention and prevent further tragedy. Place one flare behind your rig. Then walk at least 100 steps (300 feet) down the road behind you to place another flare, then halfway back to place a third flare. Placing one flare directly behind your rig isn’t enough, especially on interstates and high-

Cones, flares and reflective triangles are designed to get the attention of other drivers so they won’t accidentally hit your stopped rig.

speed roads, or if you’re in a hardto-see area, such as a tight curve.

■ Six to eight reflector triangles or cones. Like flares, reflector triangles and cones are designed to get the attention of other drivers so they won’t accidentally hit your stopped rig. Place the triangles or cones just as you would place flares, above.

■ Reflective vests. Keep a reflective vest in your tow vehicle’s side pockets (one on the driver-side door and one on the passenger-side door) so they’ll be handy in an emergency situation. Don a reflective vest [I]anytime[I] you step out of your vehicle onto the road, such as when you need to place emergency flares (or triangles or cones), change a tire, or check on a horse in your trailer.

■ Equine-travel first-aid kit. For what to include in your trailer first-aid kit, go to the Your Healthy Horse in this issue.

■ Human first-aid kit. Carry at least a small human first-aid kit. If you have an excellent equine first-aid kit, you might be able to combine the two and come up with a mobile kit for your trailer. Become certified in CPR so you’ll know how to respond to certain human emergencies.

■ Fire extinguishers. An in-trailer fire extinguisher should be at least a 5-pound model; a 10-pound model is better, if you have space. Look for an ABC-rated extinguisher (Class A for trash, wood, and paper; Class B for liquids and gases; and Class C for energized electrical sources). Keep another fire extinguisher in

From top to bottom: Don a reflective vest any time you step out of your vehicle on the road, for visibility. Look for an ABC-rated fire extinguisher (Class A for trash, wood, and paper; Class B for liquids and gases; and Class C for energized electrical sources).

PHOTO BY REBECCA GIMENEZ-HUSTED

PHOTO BY REBECCA GIMENEZ-HUSTED

your tow vehicle to put out any wheel or under-hood fires. To learn how to use a fire extinguisher, go to your local fire department.

■ Extra halters and lead ropes. Find or buy one halter and lead rope per horse, and hang them neatly in your trailer for emergency use. Extra halters and leads also come in handy if something breaks or you find a loose horse. You can even use a lead rope as an emergency tourniquet.

■ Towel or blanket. Use this to cover the head of a downed horse to help keep him calm until help arrives.

■ Hay. Lay in an emergency supply of good-quality hay to allow trapped or extricated horses to eat and relax while you wait for assistance.

■ Toolkit. Include screwdrivers, needle-nose pliers, socket wrenches, a hammer, a fence tool, and a crowbar. Such tools can help you free your horse from a wire, extricate a wedged hoof, open a stuck trailer door, etc.

■ Hitch lock. Choose a hitch lock that fits your hitch to help prevent theft in case you have to leave your disabled rig roadside. A hitch lock is a cheap investment in the security of your assets. Tip: If you ever have to leave your trailer unattended, take a photo before you drive away to prove that it was parked there. Then, in case it’s stolen, the police and insurance company will know what they’re looking for.)

■ Flashlights. In an emergency situation, a reliable light source can be lifesaving. Choose

flashlights large enough to light your trailer’s interior. Cellphone flashlights are rarely sufficient for equine-travel emergencies and will run down your battery. Pack extra batteries for all flashlights.

■ Knife. Keep a sharp, good-quality knife on your person at all times when traveling with your horse so you can cut him free should he become entangled in a rope. Your knife doesn’t have to be big, just sharp so it works when you need it to. Choose a folding knife for safety, in case you trip or fall.

■ Duct tape. Use duct tape to cover sharp edges and to stabilize anything that moves, but shouldn’t. (Use bright colors for temporary fixes to remind you to perform a permanent fix when you get home.)

— Rebecca Gimenez-Husted PhD