Equestrian Traveler’s COMPANION
What Members Are Saying About Recent Services
“Very professional, responded efficiently. I wish more businesses were this dedicated and caring. Awesome!!!!”
— Janice E, NC (May ’24)
“Mike was the BEST! He was kind, patient, understanding, and thorough. He certainly helped ease my anxiety.”
— Barbara W, MT (May ’24)
“My tire blew on an interstate highway that was under construction. Luckily we were close to an exit so we were able to get off this very busy highway. My main concern was my horses’ safety and it was also pretty warm outside. The representative was excellent as I was pretty panicked about the situation and her professionalism could not have been better. The service vehicle arrived faster than she even projected. Cannot say enough good things to say about USRider. Thank you so, so much!”
— Susan Y, NC (May ’24)
“I had AAA for years. As a trailering equestrian I obviously prefer USRider’s specialty in handling trailers & horse-related considerations. Customer Service is HUGE to me. I recognized excellent customer service every step of the way. The first thing I heard on the phone was, “Are you and the horses OK?”. I didn’t have to listen to redundant questions or recite all my information you already have in my file, got right to the point. My wife & I are very happy with USRider.”
— Paul K, AZ (May ’24)
“I am very pleased with USRider how they handled my situation and had someone coming within 20 minutes. The gentleman was there. Your customer service agent contacted me about five minutes after we hung up with each other to be sure that I got her message that someone was coming. With the horse in the back of the trailer it’s very scary and this 103° weather in Texas thank you so much, USRider.”
— Patsy M, TX (June ’24)
“Marissa was amazing. I was stuck in a two lane highway with my big LQTrailer. She called the highway patrol to come out with lights to protect us from traffic in the dark, she knew we had poor cell reception and checked back in frequently.”
— Pam Ann N, AZ (June ’24)
Travel with confidence knowing USRider will get you back on the road safely and efficiently, should unexpected vehicle or trailer problems occur.
PHOTO COURTESY OF USRIDER
SEASONALTIP
Leaf-Peeping Pointers
Riding through crisp fall air through brilliant autumn foliage is one of the most glorious experiences you can have on your horse. If you’re planning a fall-riding tour, keep these pointers in mind.
Trailer safely. Check road conditions before you leave; fall snowstorms aren’t uncommon in certain parts of the country. At your destination, park your trailer in a dry area so your horse doesn’t slip during unloading and loading.
Prepare for weather. Fall weather can be unpredictable. Dress in layers, and carry a rain slicker, a helmet cover, and a waterproof cover for your cellphone.
Watch for trail hazards. Fall can bring frost, slippery leaves, deep puddles, and thick mud. If it’s been raining, bridges can be wet and even icy, making it hard for your horse to keep his traction. Be aware of trail conditions, and ride slowly in areas with tricky footing.
Watch for wildlife. Fall can be a busy time for wildlife. Autumn is mating season for deer, moose, and elk, Males can be more aggressive than usual. If you come across one of these animals on the trail, keep your distance. Watch for hunting hazards. Avoid riding in areas that are popular hunting spots. If you do ride where hunting is allowed, wear a bright-orange vest, and apply bright-orange wraps to your horse’s head and legs. Avoid white tack and apparel; a flash of white might be mistaken for a deer’s tail.
— Audrey Pavia
USRIDERMEMBER TIP
If you don’t have a keyless-entry model tow vehicle, USRider recommends installing a hide-a-key, such as HitchSafe’s Hitch Receiver Key Vault.
Avoid a Lockout
Being stranded with a lockout is inconvenient at best. While USRider is there for you when this problem arises, experiencing a lock-out can be dangerous, especially when traveling with horses. If you don’t have a keyless-entry model tow vehicle, USRider recommends installing a hide-a-key in your truck or trailer. Avoid the common places, such as your bumper or wheel well. Try to think of a spot no one would think to look. Some hide-a-keys are made to fit your trailer hitch, such as HitchSafe’s Hitch Receiver Key Vault. As a USRider Discount Partner, Members receive a 10% discount.
— Lindsey Mulvany
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
PHOTOS BY HEIDI MELOCCO
As you take in fall color, be aware of trail conditions, and ride slowly in areas with tricky footing.
Prevent Carbon-Monoxide Poisoning
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a potentially deadly gas produced any time a carbon-based fuel (such as gasoline, propane, charcoal, or oil) burns. Sources include gasoline engines, generators, cooking ranges, and space heaters. Carbon monoxide is undetectable—it has no color, no odor, no taste; it causes no respiratory irritation; and it mixes evenly with the air.
Victims of CO poisoning usually aren’t aware they’re being exposed to the deadly gas and become impaired in ways that can lead to death. Symptoms include light-headedness, dizziness, headaches, nausea, confusion, and vomiting. Prolonged exposure to low concentrations or very short exposure to high concentrations can lead to death.
Take precautions to avoid CO poisoning. “We do not recommend any type of heating system to be used in horse trailers, unless the heater was installed by the manufacturer,” said Bill Riss, general manager of USRider. “Factory-installed heating systems should be serviced annually by a professional and operated strictly under recommendations of the manufacturer.”
Avoid using a stove for heat under any circumstances. Install a CO detector in any trailer that has gas appliances. Be aware of the risks, ensure sufficient ventilation, and properly install and maintain equipment.
As we head into cooler months, avoid using a stove to heat your trailer while on the road. Use only factory-installed, well-maintained heating units.
TRAILERINGTIP
Evaluate Tire Traction
To evaluate your tires’ traction, check the treadwear grade, traction rating, and tire age.
To evaluate your tires’ traction, check the treadwear grade, traction rating, and tire age. Here’s how to evaluate each one.
Treadwear grade. The treadwear grade (how long your tires will last over surfaces) is a comparative numerical rating based on the tire’s wear rate when tested under controlled conditions on a specified government test course. For example, a tire graded 200 would wear twice as well on the course as a tire graded 100. The actual performance of a tire depends upon the actual conditions of use and may depart significantly from the test conditions due to variations in driving habits, servicing, road characteristics, climate, weight, etc. Get the best-quality tires you can afford.
Traction rating. The traction rating indicates a tire’s ability to stop a vehicle moving straight forward on wet pavement. (This is supposed to translate to trailer tires, as well, but minimal research has been done for horse trailers.) Ratings for vehicle tires are AA (best), A, B, and C (least). Get the best-quality tires you can afford. Check the pressure before every trip, and keep it to the tire manufacturers recommendations.
Tire age. Finally, check tire age. Find the oval box around the tire’s date of manufacture, or the 4-digit date at the end of the 12-digit tire-identification number. Most manufacturers recommend replacement every five years for safety. Note: Hold onto your tires’ sales receipts. Many manufacturers’ warranties cover their tires four years from the date of purchase, or five years from the week the tires were manufactured.
— Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
Leather Tack Care
Proper cleaning and care will allow your tack to breathe easier and live longer. Here’s an easy method.
Your leather tack can last almost forever if you take care of it properly. As leather ages and is exposed to the elements, it loses the fats and oils used to saturate the hide during the tanning process. The dryer and harder leather gets, the greater the likelihood it will crack, split, or warp.
The secret is to replenish the essential oils that help keep leather soft and supple, while still allowing the hide to breathe. Also, keep the leather clean, so the dirt doesn’t erode the fibers and block the pores. Store your tack wisely, away from heat, humidity, sun.
Quick Touchup for Suede
Suede is leather that has gone through the process of having the fibers of the flesh side of the hide buffed to give it a nap effect. Because the flesh side is more porous, it’ll absorb moisture quickly and will stain easily.
Use caution when cleaning suede. While there are commercial products made especially for suede, one home “dry-cleaning” product is cornmeal. Simply rub the cornmeal into the stain with your fingers in a light, circular motion. Then use a soft suede brush to gently lift up suede’s nap.
Suede absorbs moisture quickly and stains easily. Use caution when cleaning your saddle’s seat.
Your leather tack can last almost forever if you take care of it properly.
PHOTO BY BETSY LYNCH
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
Tack-Care Supplies
■ Saddle tree/sawhorse for your saddle.
■ 3-4 soft cotton cloths.
■ Soft-bristle brush (natural is best).
■ Vacuum with brush attachment (optional).
■ Glycerin or pH-balanced saddle soap.
■ Sponge.
■ Small bucket of water.
■ Castile soap for heavily soiled leather.
■ 3-4 hand towels.
■ Leather conditioner.
■ Lint-free rags (T-shirt; sheet).
Here’s an eight-step tack-care method, plus a quick touchup technique for suede.
Step 1. Brush away surface dust. Brush away any surface dust or dirt with a soft cotton cloth or a fine-bristled brush, such as a natural fiber shoeshine brush. A vacuum with a brush attachment also works well, as long as the bristles aren’t so stiff that they’ll scratch the finish.
Step 2. Prep the tack. Open any buckles for easier access to those hard-to-reach spots. Remove cinches and stirrups. When cleaning bridles, reins, tack or harness, remove bits, buckles, hardware, and any silver accessories before applying leather cleaners. If you can’t remove the hardware, carefully clean around it, so you don’t contaminate the leather with the silver polish or tarnish the hardware with leather cleaner.
Step 3. Apply
saddle soap.
Follow the manufacturer’s directions precisely for the type of saddle soap or leather cleaner to use. Some recommend working the cleaner into
a lather, while others do not. Some products need to be rinsed off with water or a damp cloth, while others do not. Note that many of the new pH-balanced and glycerin formulas clean and condition without darkening the leather or leaving a greasy residue, while producing a lustrous shine when buffed.
Step 4. Work carefully. With a big project, such as a saddle, work on small sections at a time. Wipe or rinse away excess soap as you go. (Don’t get the leather too wet.) Residue left in crevices and folds attracts dirt, which will eat away the leather. In tooled areas, use a soft-bristled brush to make sure no soap is left in crevices. Rinse often, and use a towel to wipe up any excess moisture.
Step 5. Be thorough. Be sure to clean under all flaps and the bottom side of the stirrup leathers. These areas will more likely have the heaviest soil and sweat buildup.
Step 6. Use Castile soap. For areas of a saddle with a heavy accumulation of waxy dirt and dander, use Castile soap. A little bit of sudsing is okay here.
Step 7. Condition. Check the label; some manufacturers recommend conditioning leather while it’s still damp, while others suggest a drying period. If you’re concerned about whether a product will darken the finish, test a spot where it won’t be seen. Authentic neat’s-foot and other “oils” will almost always darken leather, while some top beeswax-fortified “fine leather” creams will not. Wipe away any excess conditioner or oil so they don’t stain your clothes or collect dirt.
Step 8. Buff. When the conditioner has been absorbed, buff the leather with a lint-free rag. As you go, check for any residual soap or dirt, especially in those hard-to-see places. USR
If you’re concerned about darkening the finish, test the product on a hidden spot.
Remove bits, buckles, hardware, and any silver accessories before applying leather cleaners.
With a big project, such as a saddle, work on small sections at a time.
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
SAFETRAVELS-----------
12 Trailering Myths: BUSTED!
Even experienced travelers are susceptible to misinformation passed around barns and over pasture fences by well-meaning horse friends. Here, trailering expert Rebecca Gimenez-Husted busts 12 common trailering myths.
Learn the truth behind 12 common trailering myths to help keep your horse safe on the road.
By Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD
When you embark on your equestrian travels, should you apply shipping boots? Throw a blanket on your horse? Tie him in your trailer? Park your rig under a bridge in case of a tornado? Even experienced travelers are susceptible to misinformation passed around barns and over pasture fences by well-meaning horse friends.
Here, I’ll dispel 12 such myths. First, I’ll give you the myth. Then I’ll bust the myth and describe my best practices, based on my years of experience, skills, and training. >>
Myth #1: Applying shipping boots or leg wraps to your horse are a waste of time, especially for short trips.
Busted: I highly recommend leg protection when you trailer your horse. I recommend shipping boots over leg wraps; ease of use means you’ll be more likely to apply them every time you trailer your horse. You’ll also avoid the risk of placing too much pressure on his tendons.
Myth #2: You should drive alone when you haul your horse to avoid distractions, especially in inclement weather. Busted: It’s best to take a driving buddy on the road with you when you haul horses. This person can help you drive, navigate, alert you to road hazards, keep an eye on the horse monitor, and make necessary calls.
Myth #3: You should always blanket your traveling horse.
Busted: It’s true that a blanket or sheet provides warmth and wind protection in cold months, and can offer some protection in the event of a bump, bite/kick, or an accident. You may also wish to use a blanket to keep your horse’s coat clean. And older or compromised animals may need a light sheet. But normally, horses don’t need to be blanketed in the trailer, because they generate plenty of their own heat. Watch for heat stress; trailers are typically very poorly ventilated.
Myth #4: You should always tie your horse in the trailer.
Busted: Tying a horse in the trailer is supposed to help prevent him from hurting himself, turning around, and biting or disturbing a neighboring horse. A loose horse can hurt another one that can’t defend himself and can cause a wreck as the injured horse seeks to escape from the attack. Tying a horse also prevents him from lying down, crawling under a divider, and/or from putting his head down under a barrier, then panicking when he raises his head. Tying also controls the head of fractious or aggressive horses.
However, when tied, your horse can catch a foot or a trailer part in the tie rope, then panic and injure himself. You can tie a horse tightly enough to prevent him from catching a foot (and annoying his traveling buddy), yet still give him enough slack to balance himself. Also, a tied horse may injure himself pulling back to try to escape through an open trailer door. It’s extremely important to untie a horse before unsnapping the butt bar and opening the trailer door.
Myth #5: In the trailer, a tie rope helps a horse balance and will even keep him from falling down.
Busted: This is false. To see how your horse balances in the trailer, invest in a trailer camera, and watch how he balances during turns, stops, and acceleration. Your horse needs room >>
Should you apply shipping boots to your traveling horse, or are they a waste of time?
Does the tie rope help your horse balance in the trailer?
A blanket or sheet provides warmth and wind protection in cold months, but should you blanket every time?
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
PHOTO
(some slack in the rope) to use his head and neck for balance. Standing up inside the trailer while it’s in motion requires constant minor adjustments of his musculature, even on the interstate at a constant speed. Short ties in particular make it almost impossible for him to balance with his own weight and normal methods. They also make it impossible him to get back up after a fall.
Myth #6: Bungee cords are safe for trailer tying.
Busted: Absolutely not! Never use a bungee cord to tie your horse in your trailer. This type of product, used in this manner, is dangerous to horses and humans. I know of one horse that was able to get out of the trailer while still attached to the cord—then it broke! I know a number of horses and humans who’ve lost eyes and had faces cut open using a bungee cord. To avoid a trailer-tying tragedy, use a tie rope that will break under pressure, such as one made from leather or a hightech breakaway model.
Myth #7: If a tornado kicks up, you should take shelter under a bridge or a highway overpass.
get out of the way—left or right—of the approaching storm. If not, get down. Think DUCK: D–Go DOWN to the lowest level; U–Get UNDER something; C–COVER your head; K–KEEP in your shelter until the storm has passed.
Myth #8: When you experience a breakdown on the road, other drivers will be able to see you if you just place a flare behind your trailer.
Busted: While you do need to place a flare behind your trailer, you also need to place flares far enough down the road so other drivers can see them in time to avoid accidentally hitting your stopped rig. Placing one directly behind your rig isn’t enough, especially on interstates and high-speed roads, or if you end up in an area that’s hard to see, such as a tight curve. Walk at least 100 steps (300 feet) down the road behind you to place one flare, then halfway back to place another one. Use a minimum of three flares to get attention and prevent further tragedy.
“To avoid a trailer-tying tragedy, use a tie rope that will break under pressure, such as one made from leather or a high-tech breakaway model.”
Busted: This seems logical, but in a tornado, don’t get under a bridge or highway overpass. You’ll be completely exposed, you’ll be in the wind shear (where the wind is worse), and there’s no place to really hide. If there’s time,
Myth #9: If your horse paws, whinnies, or stomps in the trailer, you should immediately stop your rig, get out, and unload him until he calms down.
Busted: By taking these steps, you’ll actually inadvertently reward your horse for his fractious behavior. Avoid unloading him until he settles down. Even better, make the trailer ride more comfortable for him. To understand
How much room should you leave between your rig and the vehicle ahead of you? Does the 2-second rule work in poor driving conditions?
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
the plight of your traveling horse, drive your rig to level ground on private property. Ride in the trailer while someone else drives. Listen to the sounds. Feel the trailer sway. Identify and fix any swinging chains, rattling gates, or squealing brakes that might be terrifying your horse in your trailer.
Myth #10: To leave enough room between your rig and the vehicle in front of you in poor driving conditions, practice the 2-second rule—that is, make sure you can count 2 full seconds before you reach the spot the vehicle in front of you has just vacated.
Busted: In poor driving conditions, forget the 2-second rule. Allow yourself 8, 10, 12 seconds or longer to come to a complete stop. The National Safety Council recommends that you add one second per factor of driving difficulty. These factors include poor lighting conditions, inclement weather, an adverse traffic mix, and driver condition (such as fatigue).
Myth #11: Always steer in the opposite direction of a skid to gain control.
Busted: When you must brake hard, do so as calmly and smoothly as possible, using your trailer’s brakes to assist
you. If you start to skid or slide, ease off the brakes immediately, and steer into the direction of the skid to regain control. This maneuver is counterintuitive, so practice it an open parking lot or at a driving school.
Myth #12: When you get a flat tire, you should pull over onto the shoulder right away so you don’t destroy the wheel, even if it’s a bit dicey.
Busted: Actually, if your vehicle becomes disabled, continue driving until you can pull over to a safe area, if at all possible. Do this even if you have a flat tire and it means destroying a wheel. Stopping on the shoulder is extremely dangerous, particularly on an interstate highway. Doing so can put you, your horse, and emergency responders at great risk. USR
Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD (animal physiology), is president and a primary instructor for Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue. A Major in the United States Army Reserve, she’s a decorated Iraq War veteran and a past Logistics Officer for the American Veterinary Medical Association’s Veterinary Medical Assistance Team. She’s an invited lecturer on animal-rescue topics around the world and a noted equine journalist.
Fix 3 Behavior Bummers
Correct three behavioral woes with these techniques from top trainer/ clinician Julie Goodnight.
You have to be a strong leader for your horse to act as your partner, and follow your lead and expectations, says top trainer/clinician Julie Goodnight. You have to teach him what you expect and be consistent with your rules so he knows how you expect him to act.
By Julie Goodnight with Heidi Melocco
Photos by Heidi Melocco
Pawing is a gesture that horses use to communicate that they’re frustrated and wish they were moving. Teach your horse to stand tied, and build tying time into his routine. Avoid rewarding him with any kind of attention if he paws.
Horses behave in the way they’re most motivated to act at the moment. Sometimes, what we might call “bad” behavior is simply what your horse has been trained to do—or what he’s been allowed to get away with. If your horse thinks he’s in charge or that there’s no penalty for behaving badly, his behavior may turn from annoying to dangerous.
You have to be a strong leader for your horse to act as your partner, and follow your lead and expectations. You have to teach him what you expect and be consistent with your rules so he knows how you expect him to act. When your horse knows you’re the leader, you won’t have to micromanage him. You’ll gain confidence, knowing he’ll be a patient, willing partner.
Here, I’ll explain my three top pet peeves when it comes to horse behavior. I’ll tell you what caused the behavior, why it’s annoying, and how to avoid or fix the behavior so that it doesn’t detract from your riding enjoyment.
Behavior Bummer #1: Impatient Pawing
What caused it: Pawing is a gesture that horses use to communicate that they’re frustrated and wish they were
moving. Many horses get frustrated when they’re asked to do something that they don’t want to do. Your horse might paw when you hold him back from moving on with a big group of horses. He wants to get moving and stay with the herd. He might also paw when he’s bored, and you’re not paying attention to him, such as when he’s tied inside or to your trailer, or during a riding break. Why it’s annoying: Inside the trailer, pawing is loud and distracting. He can injure himself if he’s allowed to continue and throw a fit. If your horse is highlined, his pawing can harm the terrain.
How to avoid/fix the behavior:
Using the technique I describe below, teach your horse to stand tied without showing any signs of frustration or impatience. Teach him to stand quietly as you groom him, tie him to a post, and during your designated training time. He’ll soon learn that there’s no sense in getting frustrated or showing impatience—pawing doesn’t lead to a release or a reward.
To teach your horse to stand tied, start teaching him to ground-tie every time to work with him. Outfit him with a rope halter and 15-foot training lead. Holding the lead in one hand, turn and face him. Give a verbal cue to “whoa.” If he stands qui-
etly, lay down the middle of the rope. (Maintain your hold on the end of the rope if you must correct your horse often.) If he moves a hoof or turns his head too far to the side, correct him by moving the rope in a snapping motion toward the halter, and return him back where he started.
When your horse knows he must stand still, lay the rope on the ground to test him even more. (Note that this process takes time to develop.) When he knows that you have authority and that he must follow your voice command, the cue to stand still can carry over to any time he’s tied. Tie him, tell him “whoa,” and walk away. Then avoid approaching him to give him any kind of attention. You must expect him to do what he knows how to do—stand still.
If your horse paws often, make sure he spends time tied at home in a safe environment before expecting the behavior to diminish inside or at your trailer, or on the trail. He should stand tied for up to an hour (making sure he has had access to water and shade before and after).
During the time your horse is tied, leave him alone; don’t approach him if he paws. Attention of any kind would reward him for the behavior. If you run back to your pawing horse, and give him attention, he’ll think his
pawing caused you to come back. If your older horse has an ingrained pawing problem while standing tied, ask a professional trainer to help you train your horse to stop pawing by using soft, cotton hobbles. Use caution, and make sure your horse is monitored by someone who’s done the process many times. Note: If you’re under saddle and your horse begins to paw, you mustn’t hold him still. He’s having an emotional meltdown and won’t be able to keep his feet still. Instead, move him in turns from right to left to keep him moving but focused on you. When he seems calmer, ask him to stand again. If he doesn’t stand still, turn him to the right and left again—making it a challenge not to listen and easy to stand still and be patient.
one of disrespect and disobedience. Horses constantly look for patterns in your cueing and, if allowed, may come to their own conclusions about what they should do next. If you never require your horse to stand still when you mount up, he’ll quickly learn a new pattern—a person sitting in the saddle means “go.”
Ask your horse to stand still by pointing your feet at his head and giving a verbal cue to “whoa.” Then correct him every time he takes a step or moves his nose past the point of his shoulder. Wave the lead rope toward the halter as a correction. When your horse will stand still on command with a halter and lead, saddle up, and place his bridle under the rope halter with the lead attached.
(Never correct your horse by pulling on the bit or bridle reins the pressure from the halter and lead is enough and prevents you from harming his mouth.)
When you sit in the saddle, make sure your horse doesn’t take a step until you give him a precise cue. Here, Shawntel Gallegos practices stopping her mare from taking off as soon as a foot was in the stirrup, with help from Julie Goodnight.
Behavior Bummer #2: Walking Off as You Mount Up
What caused it: A horse has to learn from the very first time that he’s ridden that mounting doesn’t mean “go.” Most horses that walk off without a cue either never learned the skill as a colt or have been untrained by the rider. This movement without a cue annoys me, because I want the horse to see me as the leader. If he steps off without a cue, he thinks he’s in charge from the first step of our ride. I don’t want that first interaction to be
Why it’s annoying: Your horse soon learns to step forward as soon as you sit down or even as soon as you put your foot in the stirrup. The trend worsens until you have trouble stepping into the stirrup without your horse walking off.
How to avoid/fix the behavior: This problem is easy to prevent. Don’t allow your horse to step forward at all until you actively give a cue to step forward. If your once-welltrained horse suddenly decides that he should step off without a cue, go back to ground work, and ask him to stand perfectly still with a rope halter and long training lead (similar to the ground-tying lesson described earlier).
Keep your expectation that your horse will stand still as you start to mount up. Mount slowly, with the lead line in hand. Watch for the moment he begins to move. If he takes a step, step down, and correct him, requiring him to stand still.
If you get so far as to sit in the saddle, your correction switches to controlling your horse with the reins. Keep your reins short enough so that you can control him immediately if he takes a step. If he does take a step, pull back on the reins, and require him to stand still.
If your horse is agitated and anxious, and continues to move his feet, put him to work. Circle to the left; circle to the right; circle again to the left. Then allow him to stop and take
Make sure your horse goes the speed you dictate. If you want to trot, make sure the trot is only as fast as you’d like to go. If your horse goes faster, turn left and right to bring his attention back to you.
a break. Reward him if he stands still. If he wants to walk off again, repeat the circling exercise. Show him that standing still is what you asked for and is the easiest option.
Sometimes a horse that won’t stand still may be uncomfortable because of the rider’s static weight (horses are built for strength while moving, not while standing still) or because his saddle doesn’t fit. He may shift from side-to-side and move more slowly. You might get the impression that he’s attempting to stand still, as he’s otherwise not showing impatience or seeming to want to do something different.
If your horse fidgets from sideto-side rather than walking forward, consider checking saddle fit and consulting a veterinary chiropractor.
Behavior Bummer #3:
Going Too Slow or Too Fast
What caused it: You’re not in control of your horse’s speed, and therefore, not in control of your horse. In the saddle, there are only two things you can control—speed and direction. If you can’t choose how slowly or quickly your horse moves, you aren’t the one in charge. If he hasn’t been
trained to follow cues to go at the speed you dictate, you need to train him now.
Why it’s annoying: Riding a horse that only moves slowly or takes off at full speed (with no middle gears) is annoying. If you’re dealing with a speed demon, you might feel frantic and out of control.
How to avoid/fix the behavior: First make sure you know how to perform the emergency-stop cues. Practice a one-rein slow-down technique in a flat area with good footing. When your horse speeds up, pick up one rein, and pull it up and back toward your opposite shoulder. This will cause him to turn and disengage the hindquarters.
Any time your horse speeds up without a cue, slide your hand down one rein and start to pull up and back. With enough repetition, you can teach him that when you slide your hand down the rein, you’ll be slowing or stopping him, and he should slow down. He doesn’t have to make a full turn. He knows what’s coming next and will learn to slow his gait while moving ahead. Soon, your horse will slow down easily when you pick up slightly on one rein.
You can also check and release your horse. Pull up and back on the reins as you sit deep into the saddle, then immediately release when your horse slows. He’ll learn that you want to slow down.
Be careful not to pull on the reins and keep consistent pressure—that will actually teach the horse to pull against you and continue to move fast. If you don’t release at the first hint that he’s slowed, you’ll cue him to fight against you and cause a tugof-war. USR
Julie Goodnight trains horses and coaches horse owners to be ready for any event, on the trail or in the performance arena. After producing the popular RFD-TV series, Horse Master with Julie Goodnight, for 11 years, Goodnight now shares the world of horses through 2Horse Productions, and through appearances at clinics and horse expos throughout the United States. She also hosts her monthly horse training podcast, Ride On with Julie Goodnight.
Heidi Melocco is a riding instructor, photographer, and writer based in Mead, Colorado.
Aging Gracefully
Horses are living longer than ever before. Learn what your equine senior citizen needs to enjoy his golden years.
By Eleanor Kellon, VMD
Photos
by Betsy Lynch
Your geriatric horse may nap more, and you’ll start to see gray hairs on the face and muzzle first. The gray can extend to the entire body.
Thanks to advances in management and veterinary care, our horses are living longer than ever before. Learn what your senior citizen needs to enjoy his golden years.
When is a horse old? Every horse is an individual. How quickly he ages isn’t necessarily related to his calendar years. Some horses look time-ravaged in their teens, others are vigorous at 30. Take your cues regarding when to start special care by how your horse looks and acts. Here’s how to help keep your older horse happy and healthy.
• Provide shelter. Provide your older horse adequate protection from the weather—sun, wind, rain and snow. Also, make sure he’s using the shelter. You may need t blanket your older horse in cold weather and hose him off or provide a stable fan in very hot weather.
• Check hydration. Check your horse’s hydration daily by making sure the inside of the horse’s mouth feels moist, since the skin turgor test may be unreliable in older horses. If the mouth appears dry, the horse is not drinking well or is being kept away from water by other horses.
• Provide adequate feed. Your older horse won’t be able to chew his feed as well as he once did, due to dental concerns. Decreased efficiency of chewing means he’ll take longer to eat. If he is in a pasture with other horses, you may need to feed him separately. Provide hay in multiple sites for better access. Make sure he has access to hay and can chew it well; this is very important to intestinal function.
• Provide hoof care. Regular trims are important to keeping your older horse moving as comfortably
Maintaining body condition becomes more challenging as horses grow older. Photographing your horse every few months can help you observe changes that you might not notice on a daily basis.
as possible.
• Vaccinate with care. Your older horse faces the same infectious disease challenges as a younger one, often with a less-than-robust immune system. However, poor immune function also means he won’t have the best response to vaccines. And immune dysfunction often predisposes older horses to more severe vaccine reactions. Minimize or avoid contact with other horses that travel to minimize infection risk. Give your horse adequate supplies of antioxidant minerals and vitamins to boost normal immune function. (Note: Immune stimulating herbs often end up stimulating the areas of the immune system that are already overactive and should be used only with your vet’s supervision.)
Signs of Aging
Aging is a gradual process. The changes of aging are similar in all species and include:
• Appearance of gray hairs on the face, sometimes throughout the coat.
• Decreased elasticity of the skin.
• Decreased muscular strength and definition.
• Loss of elasticity in tendons and ligaments.
• Joint stiffness.
• Reduced digestive efficiency and increased risk of colic.
• Gum and dental disease.
• Reduced exercise tolerance and difficulty in conditioning.
• Reduced mental alertness and increased napping.
• Osteoporosis.
• Trouble maintaining weight.
• Reduced tolerance for extreme heat or cold.
• Slowing down—less interest in movement in general.
• Reduced resistance to infections and parasites.
• Development of vaccine reactions and allergies.
Finally, many veterinarians and owners are moving toward checking the level of circulating antibodies (titers) for specific diseases rather than automatically vaccinating, especially if the horse has a history of vaccine reactions.
• Deworm frequently. Deworm at least every 60 days, including twice-yearly treatment for tapeworms in most areas. If you’re using anything other than Moxidectin or Ivermectin, have a fecal egg count checked at least once per year, six to eight weeks after you use one of the alternate dewormers. >>
When you look in an aged horse’s mouth, it’s easy to see where the expression “long of tooth” originated. However, you’ll want to weigh the benefits of any dental work against potential risks.
• Check his teeth. Your older horse may experience tooth problems. Work with your veterinarian on diagnosis and treatment. In general, unless the horse has obvious pain with chewing, or a foul odor to the breath indicating infection, some people choose to limit dental care to just routine floating. One good strategy might be to change feed types to something that is easier your horse to chew and digest.
Senior-Diet Solutions
A variety of supplements and special feeds are available for the senior horse. However, there’s no reason to change the basic adult diet until your horse is no longer doing well on it. It’s probably time to modify your horse’s diet if he’s not thriving despite your best efforts to provide adequate feed and there are no glaring dental problems. Here are five common dietary problems and possible solutions:
Problem #1: Quidding (wads of
partially chewed hay fall from your horse’s mouth).
Solution: Try bagged hay, chopped hay, hay cubes, or hay pellets. If your horse can’t chew these well either, soak the feed before feeding. Include a little bit of leafy alfalfa, or alfalfa pellets or meal to increase appeal.
Problem
#2:
Poor grain digestion.
Solution: If your horse isn’t chewing grain well, or a lot of undigested grain is showing up in the manure, try steamed, crimped oats or a mixture of equal parts soaked beet pulp and steamed crimped oats. This recipe is fairly well-balanced for calcium and phosphorus. Beet pulp has the same calorie yield as plain oats, but does not put a burden on digestive enzymes because it’s fermented in the hind gut, like hay and grass.
Problem #3: Choke
Solution: Saliva is the normal lubricant for food. When horses don’t chew well and long, they produce less saliva. Altered movements of the esophagus and dehydration may be other factors in older horses. Soak everything your horse eats, or feed wet meals. Add psyllium or ground flax to replace the high mucus content of saliva with mucilage from those plant sources.
Problem #4: Impaction
Solution: Older horses with frequent impactions may have a segment of their colon that isn’t functioning properly. Suspect this if the impaction always occurs at the same section of the intestine. Your veterinarian can tell this via rectal exam. Try to rule out sand collections, enteroliths, or a lipoma (fat tumor on a stalk) encircling the intestines. Again, this is a job for your vet.
If no underlying medical cause
Skin will lose elasticity as a horse ages, but your senior may also not be getting enough to drink. Feeding salt may encourage water intake, but also make sure his pasturemates aren’t keeping him away from the trough.
is found, the problem is most likely related to inadequate water intake. Solve this by adding a bare minimum of one ounce of salt in the winter per day (two ounces of salt in summer) to your horse’s meals. This will encourage him to drink.
Soaking meals and hay before feeding also helps tremendously. Including beet pulp in the diet is a particularly good choice since it’ll hold up to four times its dry weight in water.
Problem #5: Body-Shape/Function Changes
Solution: Signs of poor digestion include a big belly, increased gas, episodes of soft manure, trouble holding weight, and loss of muscle. If your deworming program is good and there are no unresolved issues with chewing, first make sure your horse is getting adequate forage. He needs at least one percent of his ideal body weight per day as hay and other fiber sources, such as beet pulp.
During your horse’s twilight years, don’t just turn him out to fend for himself—especially in a herd situation. Daily care and monitoring are important.
He may also respond well to either a probiotic or live organism probiotics. Minimum daily dose for the probiotics is estimated to be about 10 billion organisms, so check the labels carefully. If this doesn’t solve the problem, consider a digestive enzyme supplement. (I recommend one that contains amylase, lipase, protease, and fiber digesting enzymes.)
Or, move to a senior feed. Senior feeds contain highly processed grains and easily fermented fiber sources (soy hulls, beet pulp, alfalfa meal). Whenever possible, use senior feed on top of a base diet of one percent of your horse’s body weight as chopped forage, hay cubes, or hay pellets. This will help buffer acid in the stomach and the large bowel.
Senior feeds contain supplemental vitamins and a balanced mineral profile. But because most senior rations are designed to be suitable as complete feeds, the concentrations per pound aren’t as high as some other feeds, so you’ll still need to meet your horse’s vitamin and mineral needs.
How Much Exercise?
As long as your older horse doesn’t have a condition that prevents him from being formally exercised, it’s much better to keep him in some level of work. Exercise maintains bone density, improves the health of joint cartilage, and helps minimize joint stiffness. Exercise also increases intestinal motility, important to avoiding spasmodic colic or impactions. Many horses also seem to miss having regular work in their daily routine. Giving them something to do often improves alertness and general attitude.
Even horses with joint problems that prevent them from continuing to perform at a demanding level can usually continue to work at something less strenuous with the help of joint supplements and other joint care.
A horse with a problem that makes him obviously more uncomfortable under saddle may tolerate driving well. Free-longeing on a daily basis to keep him moving steadily for even 20 to 30 minutes a day can work wonders.
If your older horse hasn’t been regularly worked for a while, proceed slowly and carefully. If he has any joint or back problems, consult your veterinarian first regarding what types of activity are best and what to avoid.
Start by hand-walking on level ground (or pony your older horse) for about 10 to 15 minutes. If that is well-tolerated, increase by five minutes every other day. Once he’s walking comfortably for 30 minutes, add short intervals of trotting. Always stop if he’s showing distress, such as heavy breathing or heavy sweating. USR
Eleanor M. Kellon, VMD, is a staff veterinarian for Uckele Health and Nutrition, Inc., and is the owner of Equine Nutritional Solutions, a nutritional consulting firm.
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Go Lightly on the Land
When you’re enjoying nature with your equine friend, be kind to the land with these horse camping and trail-riding guidelines.
By Jenny Sullivan
For the sake of our environment, and to be considerate camp and trail partners, tread lightly on this good Earth, and leave no trace of your passing. Pack ethics with you on your equine adventures.
PHOTO BY KENT & CHARLENE KRONE
Packing ethics in camp and on the trail means supporting the land to its highest and best use, making sure to do no harm to it, and helping repair and correct any damage you come across, whether done by yourself or others
As a horse owner, you likely enjoy hitching up and heading out to a horse camp or trails near and far to enjoy scenery, serenity, and solitude. Fall is a particularly spectacular time of year to commune with nature. However, increased human activity in our nation’s parks and wilderness areas means more wear-and-tear on campgrounds and trails, and a greater impact on the local wildlife and its habitats than ever before.
For the sake of our environment, and to be considerate camp and trail partners, tread lightly on this good Earth, and leave no trace of your passing. Pack ethics with you on your equine adventures.
Ethics are principles that guide an individual. They define conduct with respect to actions and behaviors. Don’t think of ethics as rules, but rather as a personal moral commitment.
Packing ethics in camp and on the trail means supporting the land to its highest and best use, making sure to do no harm to it, and helping repair and correct any damage you come
Inspect grazing opportunities before making camp. Where fires are permitted, use fire rings, fire pans, or mound fires. Keep fires small and always under control.
across, whether done by yourself or others. Leave the area better than you found it, and model this type of environmental behavior for others to adopt.
Following, we give you guidelines from two nonprofit organizations dedicated to helping all nature enthusiasts use and enjoy the outdoors ethically and responsibly: The Leave No Trace Center for Outdoor Ethics and Tread Lightly!
These organizations offer education, research, outreach, and stewardship opportunities for recreation-area users. They represent the high-level ideals that all recreationists should aim to achieve. We also explain the vital contributions of two equine organizations, the Back County Horsemen of America and Equine Land Conservation Resource.
Leave No Trace
Leave No Trace offers seven principles for outstanding stewardship of the land: (1) Plan ahead and prepare; (2) travel and camp on durable surfaces; (3); dispose of waste properly; (4) leave what you find; (5) minimize
campfire impacts; (6) respect wildlife; and (7) be considerate of other visitors.
Tread Lightly!
The mission of Tread Lightly! is to promote responsible recreation through ethics education and stewardship programs. Its educational message, along with its training and restoration initiatives, are designed to instill an ethic of responsibility in outdoor enthusiasts and the industries that serve them.
Tread Lightly! is long term in scope, and seeks to balance the needs of outdoor enthusiasts with the need to maintain a healthy environment. It offers trainer courses through the Tread Trainer program, as well as an online awareness course.
The Tread Lightly! Pledge—easy to remember as the acronym of TREAD—offers a set of tenets that apply to all recreationists:
Travel responsibly.
Respect the rights of others.
Educate yourself.
Avoid sensitive areas.
Do your part.
PHOTO BY KENT & CHARLENE KRONE
PHOTO BY KENT & CHARLENE KRONE
Equestrian Organizations
The Back Country Horsemen of America and Equine Land Conservation Resource work hard to maintain the availability and accessibility of land for all equine-related activities. These equine organizations support the good work of the Leave No Trace Center and Tread Lightly!
The BCHA’s focus is on creating and maintaining access to public lands. ELCR shares that focus in relation to all equine recreational and competition uses of public and private lands. It works to conserve and protect equine farm and ranchland and facilities, and trails and recreational spaces. It also makes available the tools and mechanisms that help and promote these efforts.
“For the sake of our environment, and to be considerate camp and trail partners, tread lightly on this good Earth, and leave no trace of your passing.”
ELCR works with the BCHA through a Memorandum of Understanding to provide education, outreach, and support to individuals and organizations to be able to further their shared goals.
Education is one of the BCHA’s primary focuses. Its Master Education Program is a partnership between BCHA, state and affiliate chapters, the United States Forest Service, and the Leave No Trace Center.
Go-Light Guidelines
When horse camping and trail riding,
Use paddocks and hitching rails where provided. If there are none, use highlines (shown), hobbles, and staking to confine your horse. Erect highlines in rocky areas with established trees, and use tree savers to protect bark.
follow these go-light guidelines provided by the Leave No Trace Center and Tread Lightly!
Before You Go
Train your horse. Take responsibility for your horse’s education. Introduce him to vehicles and situations he may encounter while camping and on multiuse trails.
Plan ahead. Obtain a map of your destination and determine which trails and camps are open to horses. Know the regulations and special concerns for the area you’ll visit. Tell someone your plans. Make a realistic plan for your equine adventure, then relay those plans to a responsible person you trust. Leave a map that shows your route and destination. While you’re away, stick to the plan.
Know orienteering. Know how to use a map, compass, and a GPS unit, and pack the orienteering tools of choice.
Know the rules. Contact the land
manager where you’ll be camping and trail riding for area restrictions, closures, and permit requirements. If you’ll be camping on or riding across private property, ask permission from the landowner.
Plan for weather conditions. Check the weather forecast for your intended locale, then pack clothing, equipment, and supplies accordingly. Prepare for extreme weather, hazards, and emergencies.
In Camp
Use weed-free feed. Avoid introducing or transporting nonnative species. Bring pellets, grain, or weed-free hay where feed is limited or grazing isn’t allowed.
Camp responsibly. Camp in areas where vegetation is absent. Water your horse downstream from campsites in areas where stream banks and water access can withstand hard use. Select a campsite that will accommodate your horse without damaging the area. Camp at least 200 feet from
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
lakes or streams. Inspect grazing opportunities before making camp.
Consider containment. Use paddocks and hitching rails where provided. Use highlines, hobbles, and staking to confine your horse. Erect highlines in rocky areas with established trees, and use straps or tree savers to protect bark. If you use temporary corrals, move the enclosures twice daily.
Be fire-wise. Use a lightweight stove for cooking, and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use fire rings, fire pans, or mound fires. Keep fires small and always under control. Use only sticks from the ground that can be broken by hand.
Be quiet. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Refrain from using loud voices and making loud noises. Respect other visitors, and protect the quality of their experience. Respect wildlife. Observe wildlife from a distance. Don’t follow, approach, or feed wild creatures. Store rations and trash securely.
Control your pets. Control pets at all times, or leave them at home. Pack out what you pack in. Carry a trash bag, and pick up litter left by others. Observe proper sanitary waste disposal, or pack out your waste. Scatter strained dishwater away from potential drainage into other water sources.
Leave a clean camp. When breaking camp, remove or scatter manure, remove excess hay and straw, and fill areas dug up by animal hooves. Make your site invisible to others who may pass through.
On the Trail
Be cautious at trailheads. At trailheads or staging areas, park vehicles and secure horses in a manner that provides a safe distance between the horses and passing traffic. Be prepared. Carry water and emergency supplies, even on short trail rides.
Stay in control. Match your skill level to the temperament and ability of the horse you ride. An out-of-control horse may gallop off the trail, harm-
ing delicate ecosystems.
Communicate. On multiuse trails, let nonequestrian trail users know what needs to be done to keep you, your horse, and other passersby safe when you meet on the trail. Be gentle to the trail. Hit the trail in small groups during low-use times of day and of the year. Less experienced horses and riders should ride with more trail-wise horses and riders.
Go light. If you’re using pack animals for an overnight adventure, carry lightweight gear to reduce the number of animals needed. Stay on the trail. Stay on designated roads, trails, and other areas open to horse use. Comply with all signs and respect barriers. Leave gates as you find them. Avoid sensitive areas, such as meadows, lakeshores, wetlands, and streams.
Minimize trail damage. Ride single file to minimize trail damage. Don’t cut switchbacks. In open country where there are no trails, spread out to avoid inadvertently carving a trail. Don’t touch. Don’t disturb historical, archeological, or paleontological sites. Examine but do not touch cultural or historic structures and artifacts. Leave rocks, plants, and other natural objects as you find them. USR
Jenny Sullivan is a freelance equine-industry journalist and lifelong horse owner based in Vermont.
Stay on designated roads, trails, and other areas open to horse use. Comply with all signs and respect barriers.
PHOTO BY KENT & CHARLENE KRONE
Oklahoma’s Hidden Gem
Visit southeast Oklahoma, and discover a world of tree-covered hills, clear streams, and excellent horse camps.
Article and Photos by Kent and Charlene Krone
Robbers’ Cave State Park is located in the beautiful San Bois Mountains north of Wilburton. “To our delight, we rode Robbers’ Cave in the fall when the surrounding tapestry of color was at its peak,” note Kent and Charlene Krone.
This fall, visit southeast Oklahoma, and discover a world of tree-covered hills; clear, flowing streams; and good horse camps. We set out with our Missouri Fox Trotters, Cowboy and Nate, to explore several horse camps in the area. Here’s our from-the-saddle report.
Robbers’ Cave State Park
Robbers’ Cave State Park is located in the beautiful San Bois Mountains five miles north of Wilburton on Oklahoma State Hwy. 2. Several days each week, naturalists provide guided cave tours where you can learn about the area’s geography, plant life, early Native American legends, and outlaw tales.
Adjoining Robbers’ Cave State Park is a wildlife-management area. Together, these two regions provide roughly 60 miles of trails, all accessible from camp.
Park officials can provide you with trail maps. The trails are open year-around, except for a portion of the wildlife-management area, which is closed in the fall for hunting season. Most trails are in good condition. Horseshoes are recommended, because some trails are quite rocky. Autumn brings pleasant temperatures, fewer flies, and a palette of fall colors.
At Robbers’ Cave equestrian camp, you can stay in cabins with fireplaces, the View Lodge, or the equestrian campground. The upscale equestrian campground is intertwined by two loops of paved road and surrounded by large grassy expanses. All campsites feature picnic tables and fire rings; most sites have horse pens, electricity, and water.
Tapestry of Color
To our delight, we rode Robbers’ Cave in the fall when the surrounding tapestry of color was at its peak. First,
“To our delight, we rode Robbers’ Cave in the fall when the surrounding tapestry of color was at its peak.”
At Robbers’ Cave equestrian camp, you can stay in cabins with fireplaces, the View Lodge, or the equestrian campground. Shown is Charlene Krone aboard Nate.
The upscale equestrian camp at Robbers’ Cave State Park is intertwined by two loops of paved road and surrounded by large grassy expanses.
All
we rode the popular Dogwood and Big John trails. When we headed out, thick tendrils of mist wound around trees, and the mountains were still wrapped in a gray shawl. We were in for a good ride! >>
at
campsites
Robbers’ Cave State Park feature picnic tables and fire rings; most sites have horse pens, electricity, and water.
The Dogwood Trail passes a small pond on the left, goes up a forest-filled gorge, and climbs a ridge. From here, you can cross a road and ride to a panoramic spot with a picnic table on the bluff overlooking Lake Wayne Wallace.
After pausing at this overlook, you may ride either the Rim Rock Trail or the Big John Trail to a series of switchbacks leading down to Junctions BB and B. We continued on Trail #2 to the northwest section of the lake, where the view and picnic tables make an ideal lunch spot.
On the Wildlife Trail
On another ride, we explored the wildlife-management area. We rode north out of camp and across the road to Junction J. We then proceeded across an overpass to Junction K and beyond.
The wildlife-management area is a region of pineand deciduous-tree-covered hills. Again, some trails
“"Birds are abundant in these Oklahoma hills. We saw all three types of woodpeckers on one ride.”
are rocky, but there are also flat, soft stretches. We spotted deer lurking in the brush but didn’t see any bears, raccoons, opossum, or rabbits, which are also native to this area.
Birds are abundant in these Oklahoma hills. In addition to small birds and songbirds, we saw all three types of local woodpeckers on one ride: the redheaded, red bellied, and downy woodpeckers.
One fun feature to check out close to camp is the second largest pine tree in Oklahoma. Take the trail out of the north end of camp to the road. Turn left on the road, and watch on the left for a sign to the tree.
Horse Heaven Ranch
Horse Heaven Ranch is located seven miles east of Talihina on Oklahoma State Hwy. 63 East. Look for the big entry sign by the highway. Turn onto the dirt road; the ranch is within a mile.
The secret ingredient to Horse Heaven’s success is its smiling, hardworking, animal-loving manager, Elfie Bowling.
Missouri Fox Trotters Cowboy and Nate enjoying their spacious corrals at Robbers’ Cave State Park.
Horse Heaven Ranch offers 32 living-quarters’ trailer campsites with full hookups and two pipe corrals.
At Horse Heaven Ranch, your horse will enjoy a corral while you relax in a spacious, scenic camp.
The setting for this ranch is pleasing to the eye. The spacious campsites and tranquil lake make for a relaxing stay. The 32 living-quarters’ trailer campsites, spaced for privacy, have full hookups and two pipe corrals at each unit. The campground’s bathhouse is nicely designed. There’s also a full-size arena where you can warm up your horse before a ride.
There are also six luxury cabins, each with its own little horse barn. We enjoyed meeting several guests who were renting cabins. They loved their fully furnished cabin, where they could sit on the porch swing and watch their horses in the barnyard.
Horse Heaven Ranch borders the Ouachita National Forest ; there are five main entrances straight into the forest. One of these is the 35-mile-long Choctaw National Trail, which crosses Horse Heaven and continues into the national forest.
Using Horse Heaven’s map, we saddled our horses and hit the trail. The map lists four main routes honeycombed with connecting trails. One of our favorite rides was the 3½-hour B Trail. Since it was fall, our path was lined with festive hues of scarlet and gold. We meandered up and down the mostly gentle hills. Much of the trail is rocky, with some sandy stretches. Our trail culminated in a beautiful ridgetop view that we enjoyed while eating lunch.
Also Recommended
A to Z Guest Ranch. A to Z Guest Ranch has it all, with cabins, camping, stalls, and plenty of room to roam. Trails wind over the Kiamichi Mountains, with panoramic views of southeast Oklahoma, water crossings, and more.
Cedar Lake Equestrian Campground. Cedar Lake Equestrian Campground is nestled in the Winding Stair Mountain National Recreation Area. The campground has paved roads, electricity, and water; at some spots, there are pavilions and picket poles. A Cedar Lake Equestrian map is available to guide you through 70-plus miles of trails. Water is easily found on many trails in spring and fall, but less certain in the summer. USR
Seasoned equestrian travelers Kent and Charlene Krone combine their interest in photojournalism with a passion for horses. They enjoy sharing their horseback adventures and equestrian-travel tips with fellow enthusiasts.
“Using Horse Heaven’s map, we saddled our horses and hit the trail,” write the Krones. “Since it was fall, our path was lined with festive hues of scarlet and gold.” Shown is Kent Krone aboard Cowboy.
Kent Krone rides Cowboy across a stream while exploring Robbers’ Cave State Park.
Gear Up for Fall
Head-to-Toe Rain Gear
Keep dry during fall rains: The Muddy Creek Rain Rider hat, combined with the Short Raincoat and Full Length Chaps, cover you completely even during downpours. The Rain Rider’s brim becomes extra long in back, guiding water away so both your head and neck stay dry; stampede strings keep the hat in place even when winds pick up. The fulllength chaps—designed as two individual, waterproof leggings that hook onto your belt or belt loo—roll up small enough to stuff into your coat pocket. Each legging features a full-length zipper, sticky knee patch, and an elastic band at the bottom to keep it in place. The waterproof, breathable coat sports a double storm flap around a two-way zipper to keep out water, a snap gusset in back for easy fit in the saddle, a drawstring waist, hand-warmer and snap pockets, and a detachable hood with brim. Reflective piping adds safety in low-light conditions.
Heating & Cooling Products
Training Halter and Lead
StayWarm-StayCool distributes TechNiche International’s heating and cooling products for horses and riders. Its HyperKewl evaporative-cooling products (such as the leg wraps, shown) are designed to help keep your horse cool in the trailer, in the barn, and outdoors. TechNiche also offers a complete range of heating and cooling products for the equestrian. USRider Members receive a 20% discount with free shipping on orders over $40; use coupon code USRider during checkout.
Need to tune up your horse’s trailer training? Julie Goodnight’s Premium Halter and Leads are designed to impart specific pressure cues. The halter offers stiffness and durability for training, yet is mild enough on your horse’s face to use as an everyday halter. Choose from a flat noseband (designed for ground work), or a round one (designed for ground work or riding). The 15-foot and 12-foot training leads are made with a sewnand-spliced loop halter attachment that’s easy on your horse’s jaw. (Note: When you haul your horse, use a leather or breakaway halter, for safety.)
Dust-Free Bedding
AirLite America LLC offers a cleaner, economical alternative to traditional trailer and stall bedding. Made from 100 percent new cardboard, the bedding is dust-free. It doesn’t break down when trampled and doesn’t aerosolize like shavings, pellets, or straw. Cardboard is four to five times more absorbent than shavings and pulls ammonia out of the atmosphere. Because it’s so absorbent, there’s less waste. AirLite is more durable than shavings, which extends its period of usefulness. Using it in your trailer can eliminate about half of the breathable dust, according to the manufacturer. AirLite composts to pHneutral mulch in four to six weeks.
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Stuck & Alone
“I can’t think of a more helpless feeling than standing there in the dark, a thousand miles from home and not being able to get my three horses to safety,” writes USRider Member Lauren Sargent. “Then I remembered my USRider membership!” Shown is Sargent’s horse Salty Dog.
This lone traveler was stuck on the road with her three horses. USRider sent help immediately.
By Lauren Sargent
Ifirst heard about USRider when I stopped overnight at a horse hostelry near Redding, California, en route from my home in Oregon to the ranch in Blythe, California, where I spend my winters.
I thought USRider sounded like a wonderful program, especially for someone like me who often travels alone with three horses, so I signed up.
Out of Fuel
I completely forgot about my coverage
until almost a year later when I was again traveling from Oregon to Southern California with my three Missouri Fox Trotters, Boots, Salty Dog, and Sunny.
I try to plan my trips so that I’m not on the road more than five or six hours per day. On the last day of this trip, I’d planned to get an early start and drive a little longer than I usually do to arrive at my destination before dark. South of Bakersfield, I turned east on I-10 toward Blythe, eager to be off
PHOTOS COURTESY OF LAUREN SARGENT
“I thought USRider sounded like a wonderful program, especially for someone like me who often travels alone with three Missouri Fox Trotters,” writes Member Lauren Sargent. From left to right: Sargent’s horses, Boots and Salty Dog. the road. I was between Palm Springs and Indio when I realized my pickup was low on fuel.
I took the next exit. I’d just made it to the gas-station entrance when my truck ran out of fuel and abruptly died. My rig was partially blocking the entrance and partially on the road, where we were in danger of being hit by other vehicles.
I went to the station and filled a gas can with diesel fuel. I poured the fuel into the tank, but my truck still wouldn’t start. I didn’t know at the time that some diesel trucks can be very hard to start if they run out of fuel.
Some trucks have hand pumps to pump fuel to the carburetor; unfortunately, my truck isn’t one of them. With my truck, it’s sometimes necessary to bleed the air out of the fuel lines to get the engine running again.
Helpless Feeling
As my truck was blocking the road, I called 911 and explained to the operator that I was pulling a horse trailer with three horses.
She called a tow truck, but either she didn’t explain the situation fully or the tow-company dispatcher
didn’t listen very well. The dispatcher sent out a tow truck that could haul my pickup, but didn’t help at all with the trailer and horses.
A couple of people stopped and tried to help, but didn’t know how to get my truck running. It was almost dark. I was worried, because I knew my horses were tired, hungry, and thirsty, but there was no place to safely unload them.
I was feeling very much alone and desperate. I didn’t have any idea how to find a mechanic to get my truck running. I didn’t even know where I exited the interstate.
A California Highway Patrol officer tried to help, but he couldn’t get the truck started, either. He did put traffic cones around the truck and offered to stay with me until help was on the way.
I can’t think of a more helpless feeling than standing there in the dark, a thousand miles from home and not being able to get my three horses to safety.
A Friendly Voice
The situation looked pretty dismal. Then I remembered my USRider membership! I called, and immediately there was a friendly voice on the
other end of the line.
I spoke with a woman who understood my problem and had the resources to help me.
She offered to have my horses taken to a nearby stable and my truck towed to a repair facility. Since I was fairly close to my destination, I opted
“I can’t say enough good things about the service I received from USRider.”
instead to have both my rig and my horses taken to the ranch in Blythe. I had to pay part of the towing bill because of the distance involved, but I was just glad to be on my way to the ranch where I knew my animals and I would all be safe.
I can’t say enough good things about the service I received from USRider. Without their help, I don’t know how I would’ve gotten my horses to safety.
I’ll never again venture out on the road pulling a horse trailer without the protection of USRider. I tell every horseperson I meet about my positive experience with USRider. USR
Access Discounts: Trailers & Accessories
As a Member of USRider, you can enjoy money-saving discounts from our nationally recognized equine-industry partners. You’ll find exclusive deals on items for you and your horse, including trailering products, tack and equipment, apparel, veterinary supplies, equestrian gifts and jewelry, equine publications, services, and more! If you’re a USRider Member, please log in to access exclusive discount codes. Not a Member? Join today! This issue, we spotlight Trailers & Accessories. For more information on each of these companies, and for more Members-only discounts, click here.
Goodyear
USRider’s newest discount partner is Goodyear, a company dedicated to producing, innovating, and servicing the best tires in the world. Its mission began over 125 years ago in Akron, Ohio, and after more than a century, Goodyear has evolved to become one of the world’s largest tire companies. A global leader in creating the future of mobility, Goodyear is constantly developing new and innovative products designed to harness the power of forward movement. USRider Members receive an instant 15% discount on tires online.
Pressure Pro
Travel with peace of mind with PressurePro’s market-leading Tire Pressure Monitoring Solution. Arming you with real-time tire performance data and alerts to dangerous tire situations whether on the road or parked, PressurePro helps add safety and efficiency to your journeys, no matter the road you travel. With low-tire-pressure remaining the leading cause of tire failure, PressurePro’s wireless design allows equestrians to extend tire life, increase fuel efficiency, improve handling and stability, improve braking and ride with confidence. USRider Members receive a 10% discount.
Rostech Electronics, Inc.
Have you ever wondered how your horses were traveling in the trailer as you drive down the road? There’s no need to wonder any longer. Rostech Electronics has developed an inexpensive color monitoring system to give you a complete view of the trailer interior. With the camera in the trailer and the monitor in the cab of your tow vehicle, you can easily see your horses. The system is portable, wireless, and transmits up to 1,000 feet. USRider Members receive a $50 discount on the purchase of a system.
Swift Hitch
Swift Hitch is the original wireless portable back-up camera system designed to assist with hitching up your horse trailer. It can also be used to watch your horse in the trailer. Since 2006, the Swift Hitch’s portability, reverse-imaging, and night-vision capabilities have made this innovative product a valued tool. USRider Members receive $20 off all Swift Hitch products, plus free shipping, with a purchase of $50 or more.
Fall-Weather Trailering Tips
Use this checklist to help keep you and your horse safe in fall’s changing weather conditions.
Fall is notorious for inclement weather that can quickly sneak up on you. Use this checklist to better prepare for challenging driving conditions.
Fall is notorious for inclement weather that can quickly sneak up on you, such as light snow.
■ Check the weather. Before setting out on a trip, check weather reports and apps, and plan accordingly. Allow extra time for inclement weather.
■ Evaluate tire traction. Tire traction is crucial for both your tow vehicle and trailer. There are few things more frustrating than getting your rig stuck, sliding off the road, jackknifing, or getting high-centered in a ditch. Optimal traction can help prevent such incidents. To evaluate your tires’ traction, check the treadwear grade, traction rating, and tire age. (For how to do so, see Trip Tips this issue.)
■ Check tow-vehicle lights. Headlight and taillight brightness affects how well you can see the road and how well others can see
you. Make sure the headlights are aimed correctly--time and rough roads can knock them out of alignment. If the headlights or taillights on your tow vehicle start to look dim, use a headlight-lens restoration kit, or replace the lights.
■ Invest in new trailer taillights. The newer trailer taillights are digital and many have LED technology, which are bright, work well, are easily replaced, and are a relatively cheap way to increase your trailer’s visibility.
If you have an older trailer, invest in digital taillights to increase your trailer’s visibility.
■ Fix the windshield. A cracked windshield can seriously compromise your visibility. Many insurance plans will cover windshield replacement or fix it affordably.
■ Clean the windshield. Clean the windshield outside (all the way into the rubber on the edges), as well as the inside to prevent buildup. Use a high-quality cleaner, and follow up with a clean cloth to make sure there are no smears. Replace the wind-
shield wipers every eight months.
■ Upgrade the mirrors. Use your extendable tow mirrors, if you have them. If you don’t have them, consider upgrading. Extended mirrors allow you to better see your trailer, as well as the traffic behind and to the sides of your rig. Convex mirrors increase your ability to see around blind spots.
■ Turn on fog lights. Turn on your fog lights in foggy, misty, and rainy conditions for better visibility and so that others can better see the road around you
■ Add reflective decals. Add reflective decals on the top, sides, and back of your trailer to help ensure that others can see it in poor conditions.
■ Turn off cruise control. Avoid using cruise control to help maintain control of your vehicle.
■ Go slow. Follow this rule of thumb: “Rain, ice, and snow— take it slow.” Slow down even more when approaching curves, ramps, bridges, and interchanges. Avoid abrupt actions, such as quick lane changes, braking, and accelerating.
■ Use your headlights. Always drive with your headlights on during inclement weather, even if it isn’t dark.
■ Increase your distance. During inclement weather, double the normal distance between vehicles to allow more stopping room.
— Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
When AAA says no,
USRider’s roadside assistance program provies 24/7 roadside assistance for any vehicle our members are traveling in, including tow vehicles and trailers carrying horses. If the unexpected happens, our members know they can call us anytime, day or night.
*Applies to passenger vehicles or light-duty trucks maximum GVWR 14,000 lbs.
LOCKOUT
BATTERY ASSISTANCE
ROADSIDE SERVICE: FLAT TIRE ASSISTANCE, JUMPSTARTS, FUEL DELIVERY
HORSE TRAILER SERVICE & TOWING
EMERGENCY STABLING, VETERINARY & FARRIER REFERRALS
WINCH-OUT
COVERAGE ON DUAL-WHEELED VEHICLES
$5,000 THEFT REWARD FOR TOW VEHICLE & TRAILER
WINNER’S CIRCLE ADVANTAGE DISCOUNTS ONE FREE ASSOCIATE
EMERGENCY DISABLEMENT EXPENSE REIMBURSEMENT
24-HOUR CONCIERGE SERVICE
