Equestrian Traveler’s COMPANION
What Members Are Saying About Recent Services
“Very professional, responded efficiently. I wish more businesses were this dedicated and caring. Awesome!!!!”
— Janice E, NC (May ’24)
“Mike was the BEST! He was kind, patient, understanding, and thorough. He certainly helped ease my anxiety.”
— Barbara W, MT (May ’24)
“My tire blew on an interstate highway that was under construction. Luckily we were close to an exit so we were able to get off this very busy highway. My main concern was my horses’ safety and it was also pretty warm outside. The representative was excellent as I was pretty panicked about the situation and her professionalism could not have been better. The service vehicle arrived faster than she even projected. Cannot say enough good things to say about USRider. Thank you so, so much!”
— Susan Y, NC (May ’24)
“I had AAA for years. As a trailering equestrian I obviously prefer USRider’s specialty in handling trailers & horse-related considerations. Customer Service is HUGE to me. I recognized excellent customer service every step of the way. The first thing I heard on the phone was, “Are you and the horses OK?”. I didn’t have to listen to redundant questions or recite all my information you already have in my file, got right to the point. My wife & I are very happy with USRider.”
— Paul K, AZ (May ’24)
“I am very pleased with USRider how they handled my situation and had someone coming within 20 minutes. The gentleman was there. Your customer service agent contacted me about five minutes after we hung up with each other to be sure that I got her message that someone was coming. With the horse in the back of the trailer it’s very scary and this 103° weather in Texas thank you so much, USRider.”
— Patsy M, TX (June ’24)
“Marissa was amazing. I was stuck in a two lane highway with my big LQTrailer. She called the highway patrol to come out with lights to protect us from traffic in the dark, she knew we had poor cell reception and checked back in frequently.”
— Pam Ann N, AZ (June ’24)
Travel with confidence knowing USRider will get you back on the road safely and efficiently, should unexpected vehicle or trailer problems occur.
PHOTO COURTESY OF USRIDER
Is He Cold?
You’ll note your horse is cold if he’s standing with his head down and his tail tucked tight against his body. Usually, he’ll put his tail toward the wind. Often the wet weather has matted down his coat, which decreases his natural protection. It’s nearly impossible for a horse to stay warm in severe wind without shelter or a blanket. A horse in this type of weather is miserable and may be shivering. A horse that’s shivering is too cold, and it’s cruel not to address the problem. You put him in a barn during the worst weather, but he’ll still need a stable blanket until he’s warm again. If he’s body-clipped, he needs to be blanketed—period. Note: Just as your horse shouldn’t get too cold, he also shouldn’t be allowed to overheat. You can easily over-blanket your horse, causing him to sweat and become chilled. Slip your hand under the blanket. If he’s damp, he’s too hot.
— Lee Foley
HEALTHTIP
Vet-Prep for Spring
If you train your horse to accept being touched and palpated now, you’ll make your veterinarian’s job much easier and more effective when it’s time for spring vaccinations and for treatment year-round. Your horse needs to learn that if he accepts touch, the touch will soon go away—that it’s easier to stand still and accept the touch instead of fighting. Here’s an easy touch-training method from respected trainer and clinician Julie Goodnight. You can practice this method in your barn aisle during winter months. Step 1. Start with his mouth. Don leather gloves, stand at your horse’s left side, and place two fingers at the left corner of his lip. He should open his mouth slightly.
Step 2. Move your fingers. Move
If your horse is old, young, body clipped, or infirm, consider a winter blanket. Shown is a blanket from Schneider Saddlery.
your fingers slightly back and into his mouth, avoiding his front and back teeth [Photo 1]. He’ll most likely shake his head and pull away from your touch, but keep your fingers in place no matter where he pulls you.
Step 3. Reward. Watch for an instant of relaxation. As soon as your horse lowers his head or stops resisting, pull your hand away [Photo 2]. Keep up the pressure until he accepts it, then remove your hand immediately to reward him.
Step 4. Repeat. Repeat this process until your horse allows you to open his mouth from both sides without resistance.
Step 5. Move around. Use this same technique to teach your horse to accept your touch on other parts of his face and body. Spend extra time on his legs to help ease farrier visits, too.
— Heidi Melocco
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Alternative Horse Transportation
USRider provides a host of benefits to its Members, from standard features—such as flat-tire repair, battery assistance, lockout services, and free towing up to 100 miles— to services designed specifically for equestrians, including roadside repairs for your towing vehicle, and trailers, veterinary, and farrier and stabling referrals.
As a Member, if you experience a disablement associated with your towing vehicle, USRider will tow your vehicle and, if needed, your trailer, up to 100 miles free. In the rare situation that your trailer is no longer capable of safely transporting horses, USRider will help you locate alternative horse transportation. However, the costs associated with such transportation will be your responsibility. For full details about USRider’s variety of services, you’re encouraged to read your Service Contract.
If your trailer is no longer capable of transporting horses, USRider will help you locate alternative transportation. Inset: For full details about USRider’s services, you’re encouraged to read your Service Contract.
Aftermarket Floor Mats
Heavy-duty, all-weather floor mats are suitable for horse owners, as they collect dirt and debris. All-weather mats can also help maintain your vehicle’s value. Here’s how to safely use all-weather mats.
Use dealer-approved mats. Stay with original equipment manufacturer (OEM) approved floor mats, available from dealers. These mats have been designed and manufactured to the manufacturer’s specifications to work safety with your vehicle.
Check fit and stability. When you install your floor mats, make sure they fit securely in the floorboard well and stay in place. If your floor mat moves around, it can cause an unsafe driving situation.
Check the accelerator. Make sure the driver’s floor mat doesn’t interfere with accelerator-pedal operation in any way. While you will rarely fully depress the accelerator, the floor mat shouldn’t interfere with the accelerator’s movement, even at its full length of travel. Keep the mats clean. Occasionally, clean the dirt and debris from your mats to ensure safe vehicle operation. Keep the floorboard clean. Keep your vehicle’s floorboard clear of refuse and debris, especially in the driver’s foot well and the area under and behind the driver’s seat. If you brake hard, something as simple as a tissue box or crushed-up soda can could slide forward and become lodged under the brake or accelerator, keeping a pedal from being fully depressed.
PHOTOS BY HEIDI MELOCCO
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
Install Stall Mats
With properly installed stall mats, you may be able to eliminate bedding entirely, especially in drier summer months.
Rubber stall mats are excellent for your horse’s health, as they provide a dry, level surface for him to stand on—much healthier for hooves than holes, rocks, and wet spots. Stall mats also have a good amount of cushion, which is important for joints and soft tissue. They also offer a firm, level surface that allows you
to easily scoop up manure and soiled bedding, leaving clean bedding behind. You might even be able to eliminate bedding entirely, especially in drier summer months. Stall mats should fit snugly in a stall, from wall to wall, to avoid urine seepage underneath. Here’s how to install stall mats for optimal use and longevity.
PHOTO BY ALAYNE BICKLE
Stall-Mat Supplies
First, gather the supplies. You’ll also need a helper. Note that if you have concrete floors, you’ll just need the materials from stall mats, down. For dirt or clay floors, you’ll need enough gravel (crushed rock, sized 3/8" to 5/8") to fill the stall area up to about 1” below the desired level. Don’t use pea gravel or sand; these footing types are too mushy and won’t compact.
• Two 2" x 4" boards — one that’s treated and long enough to install across the front of the stall door, and one that’s 6' to 8' long.
• Metal garden rake.
• Carpenter’s level.
• Hand compactor (you can rent or borrow this).
• Stall mats (enough to cover the entire stall).
• Long-pry bar or metal T-post.
• Two vice grips (four are even better).
• Tape measure.
• Chalk (or chalk line) to mark the mats for cutting.
• Straight edge at least 3' long.
• Carpet knife (also called a utility knife).
Installation Technique
(If you have concrete floors, you can skip to Step 6.)
Step 1. Attach the treated 2" x 4" board across the inside of the stall doorway (Note: Skip this step if your stall already has a lip or an edge at least 2½" high.
Step 2. Gradually add 5/8” minus gravel (spreading as you go) up to the top of the 2” x 4”.
Step 3. Use the garden rake to smooth and do a rough leveling of the gravel in the stall.
Step 4. Use the 6’ to 8’ long 2” x 4” board and carpenter’s level to move
After the gravel is in place, leveled, and compacted, position all the mats that don’t require cutting. Use vice grips as handles to maneuver mats into position.
the gravel around until it’s level throughout the entire stall.
Step 5. Compact the gravel with the hand compactor. The compacted gravel should be about 1” below the desired finish line.
Step 6. Use a long pry-bar or metal T-post to carry the mats to the stall area. Two people can carry the bar with the mat draped across it.
Step 7. Position all the mats that don’t require cutting. Using vice grips as handles, maneuver the mats into position. Then determine how you should cut the remaining mat(s). Note: This step is critical. You want to minimize the number of cuts you
have to make, and you don’t want to have small pieces of mat filling in gaps, as this won’t hold up well over time. (Less than a two-foot-square section is too small).
Step 8. Measure the space remaining, and mark the mats with chalk. Leave about 1/8" to 1/4" space between mats.
Step 9. Use the straight edge and the utility knife to cut the mats. (You’ll need to make multiple slices to cut all the way through the mat.)
Step 10. Fit stall mats snugly together, leaving about 1/8" to 1/4" space between mats. Alayne Bickle
PHOTO BY ALAYNE BICKLE
Trailer-Buying Guide
Here are important factors to keep in mind as you buy your next trailer.
By Tom Scheve and Neva Kittrell Scheve
Are you in the market for a new or used trailer? Use this list to help ensure your trailer meets your needs.
GVWR. Determine the trailer’s Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. The GVWR, which relates to the axle and coupler rating/capacity, tells you how much the trailer can weigh and be safe to haul. Older, smaller, used trailers can have lower GVWRs, such as 5,000 lbs. It’s easy to exceed this limit.
Size. Will your horse fit in the trailer? Make sure the interior height, head area, and stall length/width allow your horse to stretch his neck and balance easily. However, bigger isn’t necessarily better. If your horse has too much room, he can get into trouble. Measure before you buy, and make sure you can bring the trailer back if there’s any problem.
Color. Dark colors absorb heat; light colors reflect heat, which will help keep
Are you in the market for a new or used trailer? Use this list to help ensure your horse’s new ride meets his needs and yours.
Imagine loading up for a trip. Will all your tack fit? Are there enough saddle racks? Are the racks large enough to keep your saddles from sliding off?
your equine friend from overheating in the trailer.
Ventilation and light. Make sure the trailer has good airflow and ventilation. Windows and roof vents are key.
Floors. On a used trailer, pull the floor mats, and examine the flooring. If it’s wood, check for cracks and rotting. If it’s aluminum, look for corrosion. Examine the frame structure and cross supports for rust or corrosion.
Wiring. Most older trailers have wiring problems that may need some work. With a new trailer, ask whether the wiring is protected by grommets and wiring loom.
Tires. Tires are rated to hold a certain amount of weight. All four tires together should add up to a rating that’s equal to or surpasses the GVWR. With a new trailer, request tires that are rated a bit more than the GVWR. Check used tires for uneven wear, worn threads, dry rot, and age. Tires deteriorate from age and should be replaced after six years. A build date is on the tire.
Tack area. Imagine loading up for a trip. Will all your tack fit? Are there enough saddle racks? Are the racks large enough to keep your saddles from sliding off?
Emergency access. Consider potential disasters. Could you easily release your horse if he gets over the
Will your horse fit in the trailer? Measure beforehand, and make sure you can bring the trailer back if there’s any problem.
breast bar? Could you quickly remove dividers if he gets under one? Will the horse-area doors withstand a kick without opening? Are the walk-through doors large enough for an emergency exit?
Gooseneck hitch. Make sure the bottom of the gooseneck is at least eight inches from the top of the tailgate when the trailer is level. Many used gooseneck trailers (those older than 2001) aren’t tall enough to clear the back of four-wheel-drive trucks that are 59 inches from the ground to the top of the tailgate.
Bumper-pull hitch. A long tongue on a bumper-pull trailer will give you better maneuverability when backing than a shorter one will. A short tongue will jackknife easily. USR
Tom Scheve and Neva Kittrell Scheve are the authors of the nationally recognized textbook, The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer. Neva has also written two other horse-trailer books, including Equine Emergencies On The Road with Jim Hamilton, DVM. The Scheves present clinics at equine expos and promote trailer safety through articles in national magazines. They’ve designed and developed the EquiSpirit, EquiBreeze, and ThoroSport lines of trailers.
PHOTO BY NEVA KITTRELL SCHEVE
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
4 Steps to Safe Ponying
Learn how to pony a second horse behind you on the trail, at home, and on the road.
By Heidi Melocco with Julie Goodnight
Photos by Heidi Melocco
Learn how to safely pony a second horse to help introduce a green horse to new surroundings on the trail and at a show, exercise two horses at once, or assist a young rider.
Simply put, ponying means to lead a horse alongside the horse you’re riding. On the trail, ponying comes in handy when training a new horse. As the ponied horse’s herd instinct kicks in, he’ll likely follow his leader through terrain that might otherwise seem intimidating, such as crossing water. And he’ll experience spook-inducing, wide-open country without risking a rider’s fall.
You might also wish to pony a horse carrying supplies to a campsite, a horse a child is riding for greater control, an injured horse that needs exercise to heal, or a horse whose owner has experienced an accident or injury.
At a show or other venue, ponying a green horse helps accustom him to new surroundings while following a trusted lead horse. And if you need to exercise multiple horses, ponying helps you accomplish that task with efficiency.
In each case, you’ll need to know how to keep you, your horse, and the ponied horse safe. It’s a complex task to carefully ride your own horse and pay attention to another, all while holding the reins in one hand and a lead rope in the other.
That said, horses don’t mind the proximity, because it’s natural for them to travel at speed while close to one another. (Imagine a herd of wild mustangs speeding across the plains.) Once you know how to handle the ropes, ponying can become a natural, easy way to travel.
Here, top clinician/trainer Julie Goodnight will teach you how to pony a horse safely while avoiding common pitfalls. You’ll learn how to hold a lead rope and reins at the same time and what to do if the ponied horse moves into an unsafe position. You’ll also gain tips to keep the ponied horse moving along at the speed you request.
Before You Begin
Before you begin, make sure your pony horse—the saddle horse you’ll ride—is comfortable with other horses riding nearby. Does he pin his ears or turn away from other horses on group rides? If so, choose another pony horse.
Your pony horse should also be easily controlled with one hand on the reins so you’ll have an extra hand to hold onto the ponied horse’s lead rope. He should be safe, reliable mount that doesn’t spook.
Your pony horse should also calmly allow ropes to touch his legs and tail, and should drag logs without spooking. These skills will ensure that he won’t be bothered by the proximity of another horse and lead rope.
Your ponied horse should be halter broke and lead well from the ground. To be safe, both horses must have good ground manners and know not to interact with other horses when a human is present. (If you need help with
Learn the Ropes
either horse’s manners, consult a reputable trainer, and find educational online courses to assist you.)
You’ll need a saddle with a rigid tree (a flexible tree may apply pressure unevenly across your horse’s back if the ponied horse pulls) and a bridle for the horse you’ll ride; a rope halter and 12-foot lead rope for the horse you’ll pony. Wear gloves to protect your hands from rope burns if the ponied horse pulls.
Step #1: Learn the Ropes
Outfit the horses in the tack listed above. Position the ponied horse on the right side of your pony horse. Holding the lead rope and reins in your left hand, move to your pony horse’s left side, and mount up. As soon as you’re in the saddle, keep the reins in your left hand, but transfer the ponied horse’s lead rope to your right hand [Photo 1A].
Note: Always hold the pony horse’s rope in a way that you can easily drop it if one horse slips or spooks—never tie or knot the two horses together.
Double the lead rope so you can easily lengthen and shorten it. When the lead rope is safely doubled, you’ll see a loop in front of your knee as your hand rests on your leg. Never wrap the lead rope around your hand; if the ponied >>
Correct Poor Positions Go Forward
horse pulls or bolts, you’ll likely become injured.
Note the doubled rope in Goodnight’s right hand [Photo 1B]. The rope nearest to her pinky finger is attached to the horse and lies next to the rope’s end. The rope extending from her thumb and forefinger is doubled. She’s in position, relaxed, and ready to cue her pony horse by neck reining.
Avoid holding the rope too far behind you [Photo 1A]. With this hold and without a doubled rope, too much slack allows your ponied horse to fall far behind your pony horse— precisely in kicking position. The loose rope can also tangle in your pony horse’s legs or slip under his tail, potentially causing a wreck.
Goodnight will hold this rope and rein position as long as she’s working with a young horse. By holding the rope instead of fully dallying the rope around the saddle horn—she can cue her pony horse to move forward or back. She also ensures that the horses won’t be connected if the new pony horse spooks.
Step #2. Go Forward
Ask your pony horse to walk on with your usual rein and leg aids. Include a voice command so that your ponied horse also hears the cue. As your pony horse moves forward, your ponied horse will feel the rope’s gentle pull. He should understand these go-forward voice and pressure cues, because he’s halter broke.
“To successfully pony a horse, you’ll need to have the skill and concentration to deal with two horses at once, such as asking your pony horse to slow down while asking your ponied horse to come forward.”
When Goodnight knows her pony horse is obeying and compliant, she’ll often halfloop the lead rope around the saddle horn. This allows her to relax her grip and hold only one piece of the rope. The rope isn’t knotted and can quickly be released from the horn.
If your ponied horse doesn’t follow along, don’t try to pull him forward; you don’t have enough strength, and the attempt could wrench your back or pull you off your pony horse. Instead, stop your pony horse, and take a half-wrap on the saddle horn, holding both ends of the rope in your right hand, down against your leg. Then cue your pony horse forward, and let his body weight pull your ponied horse forward. It’s pretty easy for the ponied horse to pull against you, but he won’t pull long against the pony horse’s weight.
Caveat: To successfully pony a horse, you’ll need to have the skill and concentration to deal with two horses at once, such as asking your pony horse to slow down while asking your ponied horse to come forward. Not all riders are ready for this kind of challenge. You might forget to >>
stop your pony horse. Or, you might get pulled off your pony horse by a spooky ponied horse. If you plan to pony a young or unseasoned horse, first practice these initial steps with calm, easygoing horses.
Keep the ponied horse close in at your pony horse’s hip so the horses can’t step in different directions around a small tree or other obstacle. Practice walking while maintaining these lead rope and rein holds. First, walk straight ahead, then gradually add turns to the right. Turn only to the right until you’re comfortable handling the rope and you can trust your ponied horse to follow. When you turn to the right, you turn toward your ponied horse, enabling the rope to stay in position easily.
Turns to the left are tricky if the ponied horse isn’t keeping up. Before you turn to the left, make sure your ponied horse is in the correct position; if he falls behind, the lead rope can droop [Photo 2A], touch your pony horse’s tail, and even slide up under it, causing your pony horse undue stress and a possibly creating a spook. If the lead rope droops, turn your pony horse back to the right to prevent the rope from wrapping around you; drop the rope, if necessary.
Step #3. Correct Poor Positions
If your pony horse falls behind [Photo 1B], simply gather your fingers along the doubled rope to shorten the line, and pull him forward with a bumping action. Your ponied horse should respect this correction, because he knows how to lead on the ground,
Don’t allow your ponied horse to move forward so much that he’s in front of your knee [Photo 3A]. You won’t have enough leverage to control him, and he can start to lead “the herd” instead of naturally following your pony horse.
If your ponied horse moves too fast and is too forward, pick up your rope-holding hand and jerk it back, pointing the rope in the direction you’d like your ponied horse to be. A quick bump from the rope halter’s knot will correct your ponied horse just as it does during ground-work sessions.
Step #4. Move Out
When your ponied horse learns to follow along in formation, moving with your pony horse without needing constant corrections, begin asking both horses for gait changes. Put your horses to work as they transition from walk [Photo 4A] to trot [Photo 4B].
Each time you cue your pony horse, use your verbal cue or a bump of the rope to spur on your ponied horse.
Soon, your ponied horse will keep pace, move in step, and easily stay in position. USR
Julie Goodnight trains horses and coaches horse owners to be ready for any event, on the trail or in the performance arena. After producing the popular RFD-TV series, Horse Master with Julie Goodnight, for 11 years, Goodnight now shares the world of horses through 2Horse Productions, and through appearances at clinics and horse expos throughout the United States. She also hosts her monthly horse training podcast, Ride On with Julie Goodnight.
Heidi Melocco is a riding instructor, photographer, and writer based in Mead, Colorado.
Ventilate Your Barn
Poor barn ventilation can have a devastating impact on your horse’s health. Here are six ways to keep fresh air flowing.
By Amy DeGeer Oberdorf
At this time of year, it’s tempting to keep your horses snug and warm by closing up your barn. Yet it’s important to keep fresh air circulating for their health.
Set up ceiling fans to keep air flowing through stalls and aisles, and add an open-front stall.
Do you keep your horse in a warm barn in the winter? If so, it’s important to bring in fresh, healthy air. Poor barn ventilation can make your horse ill, and some illnesses can even lead to death. Here, we’ll first tell you how your barn’s polluted air can make your horse sick. Then we’ll give you six ways you can improve your horse housing’s air quality in all seasons, whether you’re updating an existing barn or building a new one.
A
cupola lets your barn breathe. As a bonus, a weather vane lets you know which way the wind is blowing.
barn may be the reason for your horse’s respiratory difficulty.
“Poor barn ventilation can make your horse ill, and some illnesses can even lead to death. ”
“Poor ventilation can ultimately kill your horse,” notes Brad Cumper, DVM, of Saginaw Valley Equine Clinic in Freeland, Michigan. He explains that the longterm effects of poor ventilation create a wide variety of respiratory disorders, some of which are fatal under the right conditions.
There are three categories of airborne irritants that adversely affect horses: contact irritants; airborne allergens; and infectious agents. Here’s a brief rundown on each one, courtesy of Dr. Crumper.
The Air in There
From the rancid smell of ammonia from degrading urine, to the build-up of dusts, molds, and other pathogens from insufficient ventilation, your
• Contact irritants aren’t truly harmful by themselves, and invoke a mild inflammatory response without an immune response. They become the trigger for the overpro-
duction of mucus and constrict the lower airways. Once the noxious irritant is removed, airways quickly return to normal function. If irritants persist, the primary defense mechanism is weakened, exposing a vulnerable respiratory tract.
• Airborne allergens—molds, pollens, and proteins derived from plants, such as hay dust—invoke a mild to severe immune response. This may show up as periods of labored breathing, a chronic cough, and severe nasal discharge.
• Infectious agents—bacteria, fungi, and viruses—invoke a severe immune response and can diminish your horse’s ability to defend himself by eroding the airways of his defense mechanisms. If infection overwhelms your horse’s immune system, he may become lethargic, have no appetite, become feverish, and display nasal discharge and/or a cough.
>>
PHOTO BY BETSY LYNCH
Top: This pretty stall front from Rockin J Equine isn’t just decorative. The grating extends nearly to floor, allowing fresh air to circulate at surface level, helping to reduce ammonia levels. Bottom: Dutch doors provide fresh air and are easy to install on most structures.
A Healthy Design
Here’s how to clear the air, with design tips from Lorri Hayward Vincent of Hayward Designs in Lafayette, Georgia. She has planned, designed and constructed equestrian facilities of all types and sizes for 30 years. To increase air circulation in your barn, keep in mind that hot air rises and cool air falls, says Vincent. “When trying to move and remove air, you want to pull fresh cool air in from below and pull hot air out from above.” Here’s how.
• Install ceiling fans. Install ceiling fans over the stalls, over the stall partitions, and down the center aisle. Position the fan blades to pull air up from the stalls.
• Install ventilated cupolas. Vented cupolas are basically air vents in the roof. Ventilated cupolas are equipped with an electric fan that pulls air out of the barn. “Ventilated cupolas cost more money, but in the long run, it’s a critical feature to produce healthy airflow,” says Vincent. Consider investing in a thermostatically controlled cupola that will turn on the fan when your barn reaches a certain temperature.
• Consider an air exchanger. Air exchangers replace stale, polluted air with clean, outside air that’s filtered to remove pollens. The filter also removes moisture from the air, which can carry pollutants, and cause mold and mildew. It truly exchanges the air. “It’s a big expense, but it’s worth it,” says Vincent.
• Vault the roof. If possible, leave open spaces in the pitch
Ventilated cupolas are equipped with an electric fan that pulls air out of the barn.
of the roof, especially over the stall areas. “You want a volume of air above the horses,” Vincent explains. “Don’t put ceilings over the horses. Instead, put a ceiling over the wash rack or tack stall and have vaulted ceilings over the horses.”
• Install stall vents. Interior stall vents at the bottom of the stall front increase ventilation and air flow at the floor level and within the stalls, where air is typically still. Vincent recommends either grill or mesh on the bottom half of the stall, with a bedding guard on the bottom. If your horse has a turnout door, a full-sized, durable screen door with a bedding guard on the bottom will foster air circulation when inclement weather keeps him inside.
• Install Dutch doors. If direct turnouts aren’t an option, Vincent recommends Dutch doors that open to the outside, to allow outside air in. USR
PHOTOS BY BETSY LYNCH
PHOTO BY BETSY LYNCH
When AAA says no,
USRider says yes!
USRider’s roadside assistance program provies 24/7 roadside assistance for any vehicle our members are traveling in, including tow vehicles and trailers carrying horses. If the unexpected happens, our members know they can call us anytime, day or night.
*Applies to passenger vehicles or light-duty trucks maximum GVWR 14,000 lbs.
LOCKOUT
BATTERY ASSISTANCE
ROADSIDE SERVICE: FLAT TIRE ASSISTANCE, JUMPSTARTS, FUEL DELIVERY
HORSE TRAILER SERVICE & TOWING
EMERGENCY STABLING, VETERINARY & FARRIER REFERRALS
WINCH-OUT
COVERAGE ON DUAL-WHEELED VEHICLES
$5,000 THEFT REWARD FOR TOW VEHICLE & TRAILER
WINNER’S CIRCLE ADVANTAGE DISCOUNTS ONE FREE ASSOCIATE
EMERGENCY DISABLEMENT EXPENSE REIMBURSEMENT
24-HOUR CONCIERGE SERVICE
Ride for a Cause
By Jenny Sullivan
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
This holiday season, hat could be better than riding for a cause? Consider planning and organizing a charity/benefit ride in your local area. These rides give you the opportunity to combine fun with purpose to raise money for a group, a person in need, or a worthwhile cause. If winter weather keeps you off the trail, start planning now for a spring ride. Read on to find out more about charity/benefit rides and learn 12 tips for planning one of these meaningful events.
Giving From the Heart
Charity/benefit rides really are about trail riding for a cause and who the ride benefits. Generally, the proceeds can go in three different directions: to a sponsoring group or cause; to a person or family in need; or to a nonprofit organization.
For instance, suppose the local saddle club to which you belong holds a yearly benefit ride. The profits from the ride help cover the club’s annual expenses and can subsidize the benefits it provides to its membership. Or, ride funds can help repair a bridge on a favorite trail or provide spring maintenance services to trails in a particular locale.
A second type of charity/benefit ride can be organized to help a person or family in need, such as a local hero fighting a disease or a popular riding instructor injured in an accident. Helping a local family come back after a devastating fire or flood also fits this bill. Nonprofit organizations also can reap the rewards of a charity/ benefit ride. Nonprofits that are part of the equine industry, such as a therapeutic riding center or an equine-rescue organization, can collect much-needed funds to bolster and reinforce the important work they do.
One nonprofit to consider is A Home for Every Horse, which helps find homes for America’s 170,000 to 200,000 horses in need of care and shelter. This project was launched by Equine.com, Equine Network (USRider’s parent company), and the American Horse Council’s Unwanted Horse Coalition. The nonprofit is now run by the Equine Network Foundation.
Another way to go is a national nonprofit that raises money for medical research, such as the Susan G. Komen® Ride for the Cure, the American Heart Association, and the American Lung Association.
Organizing Tips
Following are 12 tips to help you get started planning a charity/ benefit ride for your club or organization.
1. Choose a charity. Many smaller equestrian groups hold a charity/benefit ride every year to help provide funds for their own organization to function throughout the year. Other larger equine associations might have several charities that are supported yearly. In other instances, a club may hold several charity/benefit rides per year, with each ride providing for a single charity.
Safety requirements, such as requiring a helmet, are aimed at reducing risk to others, both human and horse.
As you choose a ride location, consider water availability, overnight amenities, available parking, and trail terrain.
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
2. Select a date. You’ll need a date for the ride, and a rain date, just in case. Generally, Saturdays work best because of rider availability; the following Saturday can be your rain date. Plan far enough in advance that you have ample organizational time. Consider the weather and the time of year when you might wrangle the most participants. Also check on the availability of the trail you plan to ride on.
3. Choose ride location. This can be one of the trickiest planning items if your club doesn’t have land. A central location eases time and cost of travel for participants. Other elements to consider are water availability, overnight amenities, available parking, and trail terrain.
4. Choose ride length. You can choose anything from a breakfast ride to an all-day ride to a sunset ride or even a moonlight ride in the summer. Multiday rides are also popular.
5. Choose the ride size. Of course, the more riders you have on a ride, the more money you will make for the charity you’re supporting. But consider the location’s infrastructure—that is, how many riders the venue can comfortably host.
6. Determine rider fee. Rider fee depends on several elements, such as ride location costs, ride length, and what you’re providing for the riders. If you’re hosting a single-day ride, you may need only to provide dinner after the ride, as opposed to a multiday ride where you need to provide meals from Friday dinner to Sunday lunch.
7. Consider an auction. After the ride, consider holding an auction
(both live and silent) to boost donations.
8. Obtain insurance. You’ll want to make sure you’re covered in case something goes awry. Numerous insurance carriers provide event insurance, so check around with your local carriers and see what you can find out. You might be able to obtain insurance through the host riding club or facility, or a major breed association.
9. Establish safety requirements. Safety requirements are aimed at reducing risk to others, both human and horse. Requirements might include: all riders must wear a helmet and boots; no stallions; and kickers must wear a red ribbon on their tails. Check for safety requirements of the ride location, as well as the insurance company covering the event.
10. Recruit ride personnel. Gather a reliable, experienced volunteer team to help you run the ride.
11. Spread the word. These days, getting the word out is easy. Post an announcement on social media. Create a Facebook event, and send out invitations. Create a mailing list, send out evites. And you can still hang posters and leave flyers in local tack and feed stores.
12. Stage the event. The day before the ride, take a crew to the ride site to make sure the trail is clear and in good condition, mark the ride route, and do any advance setup. At the event site, be organized. Make signs for the checkin table, food stations, potable water, and restroom facilities. Post the safety requirements. And recruit volunteers to help get everyone organized and ready to leave from a specific spot at a specific time. USR
Jenny Sullivan is a freelance equine-industry journalist and lifelong horse owner based in Vermont.
As you plan ride size, consider the location’s infrastructure—that is, how many riders the venue can comfortably host.
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
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Equestrian-Vacation Planner
Now is the time to start planning your next equestrian adventure, such as a beach vacation. For a smooth travel experience, follow this five-step guide.
Are you considering hitting the road for an equestrian vacation next traveling season?
Now is the time to plan.
By Bonnie Davis
If you’ll be hauling your horse for an equestrian adventure next season, put the same thought and preparation into your trip whether you’re hauling him 300 miles or 3,500 miles. For a smooth travel experience, follow this five-step planning and preparation guide, plus a handy trip-countdown checklist.
PHOTO BY CLIX.COM
Step 1. Find Your Way
Plan your route. To plan your route, you’ll need updated, reliable maps, even if you typically use a global positioning system and/or a map app in your towing vehicle or on your mobile device. Online maps can be flawed, and you’ll likely lose Internet connection somewhere along the way. Find a good print map, or go online and print one out. Look for a map that shows the United States, as well as each individual state.
Type up directions. When you’ve determined your route, type up step-by-step directions in big, bold letters, and attach a copy to your towing vehicle’s sun visor for easy reference.
Organize your information. On the front of each state map, attach contact information for state highway patrol headquarters, state veterinarians, potential and confirmed overnight layovers, and even feedstore and fast-food locations.
Watch the weather. Don’t assume southern states are warm and northern states are cool; states have individual climates. For instance, Arizona and New Mexico can get cold and snowy in the mountainous regions. Also know where severe weather, such as tornados and hurricanes, may hit. Check weather conditions online for the latest national forecasts. Set hauling goals. Determine how far you’ll haul per day. Consider distance, as well as road and weather conditions. In good conditions, you should be able to haul 400 to 500 miles before an overnight layover. Be flexible; you never know when you’ll hit a detour or adverse weather conditions, even in summer.
Step 2. Call Your Vet
Stay current. Make sure your horse is up-to-date on his vaccinations and deworming. Get a Coggins test. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for a Coggins test for equine infectious anemia.
Get a health certificate. For interstate travel, also get a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection (health certificate) and/or equine passport from your vet.
Step 3. Book Your Layovers
Plan overnight layovers. At least six months before you leave, plan where you’ll stop overnight; some places are booked well in advance. One good layover option is public lands. Go online for more information. >>
At least six months before you leave, plan where you’ll stop overnight; some places are booked well in advance. One good layover option is public lands. Shown is Little Missouri State Park in North Dakota.
To plan your route, you’ll need updated, reliable maps, even if you typically use a global positioning system and/or a map app in your towing vehicle or on your mobile device.
Three to four months before your trip, start a conditioning program for your horse so he’s prepared for the rigors of your adventure.
PHOTO BY KENT & CHARLENE KRONE
PHOTO BY KENT & CHARLENE KRONE
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
Two weeks before departure, accustom your horse and yourself to any new tack/gear you’ll use on the trip.
Avoid filling your trailer’s manger or hay net to the top; your horse needs room to breathe freely. This applies to any hay net you use inside and outside your trailer.
Offer your horse water at all rest stops. Keep track of how much water he drinks; a horse needs about 10 to 30 gallons of water per day to stay hydrated and healthy.
Plan backup layovers. Weather can change in an instant, delaying or even halting your progress. As you plan your layover stops, select a few others along the way to use as backups. Call each one to find out reservation and cancelation policies, and whether the managers think they might have room for your horse on short notice.
Confirm reservations. Before you leave and while on the road, call your planned layover facilities to confirm your reservations. If you’ll be arriving late at night, make sure someone will unlock any gates and that a stall will be ready for your horse. In case you arrive later than you expected or you miss an arrival date altogether, ask the manager how long the facility will hold a stall for you.
Step 4. Pack Up
Pack feed. Haul your horse’s feed from home, and add new feed along the way. Many states require Certified Weed Free feed. CWF feed is especially a consideration if you’ll be traveling to or through public lands managed by the United States Forest Service, the National Park Service, or the Bureau of Land Management. Ask for a list of growers from the applicable public agency, or contact the state agriculture office. Pack meds. Ask your vet to help you stock your firstaid kit. Also ask them to prescribe any nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (such as phenylbutazone or flunixin meglumine) that they think your horse might need on the road. If your horse is on a special medication, pack enough to cover the whole trip. Ask your vet to show you how to administer any medications if you’re unsure.
Pack travel papers. Put together a binder with your horse’s veterinary records from the last two years, including the traveling papers records noted earlier, so a veterinarian you might need to see while traveling will know your horse’s medical history. This information can be lifesaving.
Step 5: Be Road Savvy
Check your rig. Several months before you go, perform a maintenance check on your tow vehicle and trailer. Allow enough time for any required major repairs.
Subscribe to an emergency roadside service. Sign up for a comprehensive emergency roadside service that will cover both your towing vehicle and your trailer, such as USRider Equestrian Motor Plan.
PHOTO BY KENT & CHARLENE KRONE
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO
Trip-Countdown Checklist
6-12 Months Before Departure
■ Purchase/download road maps, and plan your driving route.
■ Determine any feed restrictions.
■ Plan and reserve your overnight stops.
3-4 Months Before Departure
■ Train your horse to safely load into—and unload from—your trailer.
■ Start a conditioning program for your horse so he’s prepared for the rigors of your adventure.
■ Perform a complete maintenance check on your tow vehicle and trailer; make any necessary repairs.
2 Months Before Departure
■ Check, clean, and oil your tack. Repair/replace tack as necessary.
■ Start hauling your horse at least once per week.
1 Month Before Departure
■ Schedule a veterinary exam to obtain traveling papers.
■ Review packing lists—one for your horse and one for you; purchase any necessary items.
■ Plan on-the-road meals and snacks.
■ Confirm all reservations.
2 Weeks Before Departure
■ Accustom your horse and yourself to any new tack/
Let your horse breathe. Avoid filling your trailer’s manger or hay net to the top; your horse needs room to breathe freely. When you tie him, leave enough slack so that he can lower his head even with his withers; he’ll need to rest his neck and clear his airways. However, don’t leave so much slack that he could catch a hoof in the rope. Stay in touch. Communications is a must when hauling long-distance. Charge up your mobile devices, and pack car chargers. If you’re driving in tandem with those in another vehicle, consider two-way radios, reliable for shortrange use. Consider taking along your laptop; if you can find Internet access, a wealth of travel-related information will be at your fingertips.
Find a vet. To find a veterinarian on the road, visit the American Association of Equine Practitioners website, which provides a listing of AAEP members.
Find a farrier. To find a farrier on the road, visit the American Farriers Association website, which provides a listing of AFA members.
Stop to rest. Off-highway stops are necessary to keep your horse happy. Look for wide open spaces for easy reload-
gear you’ll use on the trip.
■ Recheck your towing vehicle and trailer. Fill spare tires with air.
■ Have your farrier trim/shoe your horse. If your horse wears hoof boots, make sure they fit after trimming/ shoeing.
1 Week Before Departure
■ Begin occasionally adding concentrated apple juice to your horse’s water.
■ Begin any feed changes that may be required on the road, including pelleted feed.
■ Wash your horse’s blanket, and put it in the trailer.
■ Check weather conditions in the areas through which you’ll be traveling, as well as at your destination.
1-2 Days Before Departure
■ Put the remaining items in your rig.
■ Fill mangers and hay nets; secure extra feed; fill water cans.
■ Confirm your reservations. Departure Day
■ Make sure you have everything on your list, including maps, directions, and relevant phone numbers.
■ Complete a pre-trip check on your towing vehicle and trailer, including all lights.
■ Load up your horse, and go!
ing and turning around. Truck stops can do in a pinch. Drive to a quiet area, and check on your horse. Open the feed door, talk to him, and let him look around. Only unload him if he isn’t spooky; you don’t want a loose horse beside a busy highway. While you’re stopped, clean out your trailer, and refill the manger or hay net. Offer water. Offer your horse water at all rest stops. Keep track of how much water he drinks; a horse needs about 10 to 30 gallons of water per day to stay hydrated and healthy. If your horse won’t drink after 12 hours, he’s at risk for dehydration. To tempt him to drink unfamiliar water, add an eight-ounce can of apple juice per one gallon of water. (Tips: Do this at home a few times before you leave to accustom him to the apple flavor. Another technique: Blend water you brought from home with the local water source to disguise the taste difference.)
Stay on schedule. If you get ahead of your travel schedule, plan to stay at the layover facility an extra day or two. Plan an off-hauling day to give your horse a chance to relax outside the trailer while you catch up on shopping, check road conditions, etc. USR
Double Trouble
This Western dressage trainer experienced not just one, but two trailer-tire troubles during interstate travel. USRider was there to help.
By Amanda Delgado
Western dressage trainer and USRider Member Amanda Delgado detected a problem with one trailer tire before it blew. “It was very low, and the metal was beginning to stick out,” she says [inset]. After her team replaced the tire, USRider helped her find a replacement spare.
PHOTOS BY AMANDA DELGADO
PHOTO BY AMANDA DELGADO
Two hours from home, Delgado experienced another trailer-tire problem—this time, the tire blew out on the road. USRider quickly sent help to replace the blown tire, as well as the replacement spare, with a new, higher-grade tires.
Last year, while hauling horses from North Carolina to Guthrie, Oklahoma, for the Western Dressage Association of America World Championship Show, we had a scary trailer-tire blowout. We had the materials to take care of it, but it was definitely a wake-up call. This year, I made sure to enroll in USRider® Equestrian Motor Plan before our haul out, and I am so grateful I did!
Search for a Spare
Our team was on the way home from Oklahoma. We were in Arkansas and stopped for fuel. While fueling, I did my normal walk around my trailer and caught that my tire was just about to blow. It was very low, and the metal was beginning to stick out. We put on my spare trailer tire and continued down the road.
We called ahead to our layover to find a tire shop to replace the spare, but none of the shops carried the size of tire my trailer required. We felt so defeated, and I was uncomfortable continuing our trip home without a
spare. I called USRider and asked if they could help me find a replacement spare tire. They set up a guy to meet us at our layover spot and fix our spare. How cool is that?!
Blowout!
Well, two hours out from our destination, I heard a loud bang! and debris went flying from the trailer. We had blown another tire! I limped to the next exit and immediately called USRider.
Within 20 minutes, the Member Care Specialist sent out a repair guy. He took care of both tires on the spot, replacing the recently blown tire and the replacement spare! I couldn’t believe it! He even helped us get the tires on the rims and then back on the trailer. Plus, when he heard we had horses and were hauling to North Carolina, he upgraded us to thicker, higher-grade tires for free.
‘They Truly Cared’
What impressed me the most is that a USRider Member Care Specialist called and texted us to make sure we
made it safely to our next layover spot in Tennessee. They checked on us again in the morning to make sure we were still safe. They truly cared about the safety and welfare of myself and my horses!
“I will never, ever haul a horse without being covered by USRider.”
‘Worth Every Penny’
Lessons I learned today:
• Sign up for USRider Equestrian Motor Plan right now! All I had to pay for were my replacement tires. The service and labor were completely covered! USRider handled everything!
• Carry two spare trailer tires when hauling. Chances are, if you blow one, you’ll blow another!
I will never, ever haul a horse without being covered by USRider. Their service is worth every single penny, and then some! USR
All-Season Travel Ease
Travel Saddle Stand
The Travel Stand by Horse Fare Products, available from SmartPak Equine, LLC, is a tote and travel saddle stand all in one. The stand’s beautiful spruce wood is enhanced by a special dark-walnut stain. Its light weight, compact design, and cut-out grips make for easy handling. The stand weighs 21 pounds and stands at 24 by 24 inches. Buy one for yourself, or gift one to a special horseperson in your life this holiday season.
USRider Gift Membership
You enjoy all the benefits that come from a USRider Equestrian Motor Plan membership, including emergency roadside assistance, travel benefits, and Winner’s Circle Advantage discounts. Share the gift of peace of mind with your favorite horseperson with a USRider Gift Membership. Just go to the USRider website, log in, and click on Gift Membership. Bonus: Your own USRider membership will be extended by one month for each gift membership you give.
Shin Guard
If you’ve ever banged your shin on the hard steel edge of your truck’s ball mount, you know how painful it can be. The Fastway® SHIN GUARD™ safety cover can save you some skin. The guard includes an adjustable tether loop to keep your trailer-wiring harness off the ground so it won’t drag and so it’ll be where you need it when you’re ready to hook up. Available in black, yellow, and orange. Perfect stocking stuffer!
Side Window Deflectors
Hitting the road during inclement weather usually means keeping your towing vehicle’s windows all the way up. WeatherTech’s Side Window Deflectors offer protection against rain and snow, so you can let the fresh air in while deflecting precipitation and road noise. These rain guards are precision crafted to custom-fit the year, make, and model of your vehicle with an aerodynamic low-profile design that lends an OEM (original equipment manufacturer) look and feel.
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Access Discounts: Tack & Equipment
As a Member of USRider, you can enjoy money-saving discounts from our nationally recognized equine-industry partners. You’ll find exclusive deals on items for you and your horse, including trailering products, tack and equipment, apparel, veterinary supplies, equestrian gifts and jewelry, equine publications, services, and more! If you’re a USRider Member, please log in to access exclusive discount codes. Not a Member? Join today! This issue, we spotlight Tack & Equipment. For more information on each of these companies, and for more Members-only discounts, click here.
Bit of Britain
Since 1991, Bit of Britain Saddlery has been a top source for English riding gear, providing top-quality riding wear; saddles and leather goods; barn, show and trailering supplies; hard-to-find sporting equipment; educational materials; and protective gear for horse and rider. Friendly staff provides knowledgeable service, and the company’s website offers 24-hour ordering flexibility. USRider Members receive a special 10% discount.
FABTRON Handcrafted Saddles & Tack
Fair Hill Saddlery
FABTRON delivers a full line of quality tack for horses, cows, sheep, and dogs. The company was founded in 1977 by Stan and Sharon Headrick with three goals in mind: offer quality products, be competitively priced, and supply the best service in the industry. Sold only through authorized distributors, FABTRON’s product line is one of the best and broadest in the industry, with new and improved products being added continually. USRider Members receive a 20% discount on saddles.
Fair Hill Saddlery’s conception began in 2017 when Frank Chick Jr. was delivery hay to Fair Hill Training Center and saw a for-sale sign on a special piece of property. The dream of expanding his hay-and-feed business played through his mind. He and his wife, Kimberly, envisioned a beautiful building on top of the hill with a large parking lot filled with horse trailers and people. After years of work, the company officially opened its doors on November 23, 2019. Based in Elkton, Maryland, Fair Hill Saddlery offers apparel, footwear, helmets, protective vests, accessories, training equipment, and grooming supplies. USRider Members receive a 10% discount.
Heritage Equine Equipment
Heritage Equine Equipment is a family-owned horse stall manufacturing company located in rural Box Springs, Georgia. Owner Mark Hopkins has been designing and building equine facilities for almost 30 years. Heritage was created to provide stalls, Dutch doors, barn doors, etc., for the projects he was building. As the company grew, Hopkins’ wife, Marybeth, joined the team. Today, Heritage is a nationwide provider of custom-built equine equipment. You can count on Heritage for strength, beauty, durability, and long-lasting performance. USRider Members receive a 3% discount.
Winter-Hauling Tips
You can haul your horse all year long, even in the dead of winter, as long as you do so safely. Use this checklist to help keep your horse safe and comfortable, and your rig on the road.
■ Watch over-blanketing. It’s easy to over-blanket your horse. Most trailers are poorly ventilated, so they tend to get very warm with body heat, even in below-freezing temperatures. A light sheet or blanket is sufficient for most horses.
■ Apply leg protection. Apply leg protection, such as polo wraps or shipping boots. In winter, it’s especially important to protect your horse’s precious lower legs from slips and kicks.
■ Increase ventilation. Humidity and condensation buildup from your horse’s breath can cause respiratory illness. Improve the indirect ventilation in your trailer to counteract this risk.
■ Avoid drafts. That said, make sure that there are no direct drafts hitting your horse, especially on his face and eyes. Freezing-cold temperatures with wind can result in damaged corneas from frostbite.
■ Monitor your horse. On the road, check your horse frequently. If there’s sweat under the blanket, he’s cooking inside. If he’s clipped and lacks natural insulation, carefully monitor him for sweat or shivering.
■ Recruit an assistant driver. In poor conditions, it’s helpful to have an assistant driver. This person watches road conditions, unusual events, and environmen-
tal conditions that could create a problem. This person also does all navigation, is the ground guide for backing and tight spots, checks on the horses from the incab camera, and handles important mobile-phone calls.
■ Practice backing up. Backing up a rig is particularly challenging in snow and ice. Not only are the roads slick, but also the snow covers up landmarks you might rely on for guidance. Learn to back up your trailer when the weather is nice.
■ Turn on all lights. Keep on the appropriate lights of your towing vehicle and trailer at all times, day and night.
Go as slow as you need to. Run your hazard lights, if necessary. Let the rest of the traffic go around you; your priority is your safety, and that of your horse and your passengers.
■ Take it slow. Go as slow as you need to. Run your hazard lights, if necessary. Let the rest of the traffic go around you; your priority is your safety, and that of your horse and your passengers.
■ Allow room to brake. Leave enough room between you and the vehicle in front of you to account for much longer braking distances than normal. Watch
You can haul your horse all year long, even in the dead of winter, as long as you do so safely.
for black ice. Forget the 2-second rule. In poor driving conditions, allow yourself 8, 10, 12 seconds or longer to come to a complete stop. Add one second per factor of driving difficulty. Factors include poor lighting conditions, inclement weather, an adverse traffic mix, and driver condition (such as fatigue).
■ Drive defensively. Plowed snow can make normal roads and driveways very narrow. Take the time to allow other vehicles to pass, and set up for turns and backups ahead of time.
■ Avoid a skid. If you must brake hard, do so as calmly and smoothly as possible, using your trailer’s brakes to assist you. If you start to skid or slide, ease off the brakes immediately, and steer into the direction of the skid to regain control. This maneuver is counterintuitive, so practice it an open parking lot or at a driving school in good weather conditions.
— Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM
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