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A Seasoned Performer Hong Kong is home to a plethora of gourmet Chinese restaurants boasting the coveted Michelin-Star status – and plenty that don’t. We ask a veteran of the industry what it takes to produce top-notch Cantonese cuisine grand enough to receive this prestigious award

By Nadine Bateman

xecutive Chef Mango Tsang has been working in Hong Kong kitchens for more than 42 years, so it’s fair to say he’s an authority on Chinese cuisine, Cantonese in particular. He’s the man in charge of maintaining the high standards required to keep the MichelinStar status at the Dynasty Chinese restaurant in the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, Wan Chai. The restaurant is more often than not fully booked to its 300-plus capacity with discerning local diners. “The majority of our guests have lived in Hong Kong all their lives – they are likely to be in their 50s or 60s and they want traditional Cantonese food but with the best ingredients,” says Chef Tsang.

Highest quality Indeed, insisting on the highest quality ingredients and cooking only produce that’s in season are key to the success of Dynasty’s menu which Tsang says is 90 per cent Cantonese – traditional and authentic fare from Guangdong Province – with a few dishes from mainland locations such as Shanghai. Says Tsang: “We only use the best ingredients and cook them the best way. We plan the menu to include basic Cantonese food but using the highest quality meat and fish: we pay top prices. For example, a favorite dish in Cantonese cooking is the

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garoupa which we select fresh every day from suppliers and we choose the biggest ones. We try to buy it as soon as possible after it has been caught so that it is as fresh as possible. Every day we will buy three big ones that weigh more than 10 lbs each.” “[Similarly], with meat for our [signature] Cha Siu barbecued pork dish, we will order 60 kilos which will be for 60 dishes and no more – even though it is a dish almost every diner asks for. We do this because we only want the best quality.” He says the first thing he asks his suppliers is which part of China the meat comes from, because that determines how fresh it is. He explains that certain areas are better for some meat at different times of year because of the weather. [Thus] In one month the chicken will taste better from Sichuan and the next it will be good from Hunan. He only cooks what is in season. “Flavors in Chinese food depend on the weather [and] the four seasons. For example, in spring we like flavors that are a bit sour and hot, in summer the food is a little more bitter, in autumn and winter time we need food that is a little more salty because that gives us energy. In cooking we follow our culture and the seasons are very important to us. Our chefs plan the menu around that.” Cantonese cooking has a varied history, explains Tsang: “In the old days, Cantonese cooking was more basic, not very advanced compared with those in northern China. Then,

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Mango Tsang

after about 1949 and again after 1967 a lot of mainlanders brought their culinary skills and traditions to Hong Kong, specifically from Guangdong Province where there are many different culinary traditions.” “Also, there are a variety of rural areas in Guangdong known for a particular produce or style of cooking. For example, Chiu Chow is famous for its cold seafood, especially crab. Hakka cuisine comprises animals bred on the inland farming areas – particularly chicken [salty chicken dish is favorite from there]; and Shunde is well-known for its freshwater fish.”

Cha Siu In addition to specific ingredients chosen for their freshness, the melting pot of Guangdong cuisine comprises some very particular methods. Such as the Cha Siu barbecued pork which is a special treat because it’s one that almost every Cantonese loves. Says Tsang: “Cooking Cha Siu

requires a very experienced chef because it is a complex dish to prepare. First, the meat is marinated overnight and then baked in the oven for around an hour, then glazed with

honey and cooked for 10 more minutes so that it is juicy and sweet inside. It must hang in a big enough oven so that the fat and water drips off [an oven that size is something most Hong Kong homes don’t have].” “We still use the traditional cooking methods such as when we make steamed dumplings. They must each have exactly 13 folds [although you cannot always see them when they've expanded after steaming]. The reason for this is simply because it is believed it looks more elegant. With Shanghai-style pork dumplings commonly known as Xiao Long Bao that are served with vinegar and ginger, they must have 18 folds.” Chef Tsang says soup has a special place in Cantonese cuisine and every season has certain soups with different ingredients. In summer, it may be winter melon diced with pork or shrimp or roast duck added; in the winter soup is double-boiled with warming Chinese herbs added; autumn will probably have sweet and sour flavors and spring will also be double-boiled but the herbs are different. Chef Tsang says he’s not a doctor and wouldn’t make any claims but it’s believed many of the herbs have medicinal or healing properties. Dynasty’s cuisine is emphatically traditional, as opposed to what Chef Tsang describes as “the trend for fusion food” that can be found in many other Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong. There are few concessions to “foreigners” tastes, although the manager will ask if overseas guests would prefer their chicken

Beyond the Basic de-boned or their fish filleted. Chef Tsang doesn’t mind admitting that maintaining the high standards of a Michelin Star restaurant is hard work but that doesn’t prevent him from devoting time to sharing his passion for Cantonese cuisine, thus he is chairman of the Hong Kong Chinese Chefs Association, a consultant for the Training Institute of Chinese Cuisine in Pok Fu Lam and the judge of an annual Chinese cooking competition which he has done for the past 10 years.

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By Nadine Bateman

o much of what people generally think of as Italian cuisine is limited to one main ingredient: the tomato. That’s according to the executive chef of two top ItalianAmerican restaurants that have recently opened in Hong Kong. Zach Allen, who has brought Lupa

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and Carnevino here this year, says many people’s experiences of dining Italian style are usually “very basic” and include recipes such as spaghetti and meatballs or eggplant parmesan. Specifically, he cites America where self-styled Italian outlets often serve up this type of food, but which he says you seldom find in restaurants in Italy.

The Italian ingredients Explains Allen: “A lot of that [style of cooking] came about in the early 1900s when Italian immigrants to America started making those dishes because the ingredients were cheap. All those ingredients; the nightshade vegetables [potatoes, peppers, tomatoes,

Zach Allen

aubergines, etc] have really only been used in Italian cooking relatively recently. There are so many other Italian flavors." It’s those flavors that Allen and his team use to great effect in the food they serve at Lupa, which opened here in April, and the newer Carnevino, to be launched next month. Continues Allen: “There are some vital spices in the food of Italy that are not generally thought of as Italian spices, such as lovage, celery seed, cumin, saffron and what's known as garum, which is basically Roman fish sauce. They are known as Apecian spices after a man named Marcus Apicius who [it’s hotly debated] may have written the world’s first cookbook.” “Also, there were many other different flavors that were discovered many centuries ago when the Roman

Empire was controlling around half the known world. So you have all these spices and flavors that you don’t really think of as Italian but which form a lot of the basis for Italian cuisine long before the tomato became a component.” Clearly passionate about his profession, Allen continues his fascinating culinary history lesson: “As well, you have the ports of Ravenna and Venice in northeast Italy which the Hapsburg Empire controlled at one time and that’s when a lot of spices from Eastern Europe became incorporated into Italian cuisine.” “Northern Italy is almost Germanic and Slavic when it comes to ideas about food, but then you’ll also see these weird baking spices that you don’t normally associate with German or Slavic food and they came from the trade in the ports with North Africa, the Middle East and India.”

Shared history When it comes to Chinese palates, Allen says he hasn’t really had to adapt his recipes because there is something of a shared history between Italy and China. “I definitely think there are similarities between Italian and Chinese food. At the restaurants in New York and Las Vegas we have what I’ve always called Chinese-Italian food. Both of them are cuisines in which you use all parts of an animal plus noodles are big in both societies, and both are probably two of the oldest civilizations in the world.” Allen admits that he has reduced the amount of salt in some dishes, because, although fish sauces, fermented products and MSG are common ingredients here, salt “hits the palate in a different way.” When it comes to sourcing ingredients, he says there are a few essentials

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that he’ll always bring in from Italy. They include Parma ham, olive oil and balsamic vinegar. “They make cured hams in China but Italian Parma ham is the best in the world. The big thing about Italian cuisine is buy the freshest thing in the market and cook it in, say, the style of Sorrento. You buy whatever fish is available and fresh and cook it using local ingredients. The whole key is the quality of ingredients,” he says.

Three diners Zach Allen is a protégé of Mario Batali, who American diners will no doubt be familiar with as the media personality, writer and expert on Italian cuisine at the helm of restaurants Lupa, Carnevino and Otto Enoteca pizzerias in New York, Los Angeles and Las Vegas. Allen explains that the three restau-

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rants, while all serving up fresh Italian food, differ in style from each other. “Lupa is a classical Italian restaurant that has space for every type of diner; if you’re looking for a big plate of salami after work before meeting friends to go on to another restaurant you can sit at the bar, or if you want a quick bite – almost like Spanish tapas style – you can do that, or a romantic evening is possible in the candlelit corners: Lupa offers a lot of options.” “Carnevino [which opens in Hong Kong in September after a ‘soft launch’ in August] is a steakhouse that also specializes in dried meat – we have our own facility for that. We take a lot of pride and time to do the meat. I am drying beef for at least 21-28 days and the beef we’re serving currently is 79 days of age. At our Las Vegas restaurant we go up to 250 days. This intensifies the flavors: the more the meat ages the more flavors you’ll get. People say they can taste

mushrooms, foie gras, gorgonzola or blue cheese. The flavor by the bone gets especially intense. This is obviously not for everyone.” “I understand that dry ageing is not hugely popular in Hong Kong in general, but we think we can change that – we’re going to try, anyway.” Allen adds that Carnevino is a finer dining experience with good china and crystal on the tables and a little more space between them – and that’s reflected in the price. By contrast, there are plans to open a version of Otto early next year, which will offer simple pasta and main dishes and will be a quicker dining experience, says Allen. “Otto is a nicer dinner than, say, Cafe de Coral, but you don’t have to spend a lot – maybe HK$350 per person and HK$200-250 for a bottle of wine. It won’t break the bank and is aimed at a younger clientele.”

All about ingredients Zach Allen has worked with Batali for around 14 years and has evidently absorbed passion and inspiration from the flamboyant foodie [who has been known to wear shorts and orange Crocs in the kitchen]. Batali’s “constant desire to improve and always seeking the best products” are probably the greatest lessons he has learnt through working with him, Allen says. “There are not a lot of ways to hide inferior ingredients, yet there are a lot of restaurants that try by adding fussy elements. Mario taught me that plating should be simple and the ingredients the best. And that was also the way I grew up in Washington State: we made our own sausages and grew our own vegetables – cooking and eating was all about the ingredients. My grandmothers worked in the industry and passed on their knowledge of good food to me.”

The services

Christopher Orta

Closer to Home By Nadine Bateman

he Bostonian is a slice of real America in Hong Kong. The restaurant inside The Langham Hotel in Tsim Tsa Tsui specializes in the authentic cuisine of the East Coast. Established more than 10 years ago, it is currently overseen by Christopher Orta from Southern California, who has been Food and Beverage Director at the hotel for three years. Says Orta: “It was thought the East Coast flair could be incorporated well here. The cuisine has taken a few different turns, but we’ve now got it back to what real Bostonian food should be. As soon as I got here I looked at the menu and I realized a few basic East Coast Boston items were missing, such as the clam bake, lobster stew and a good clam chowder. We’ve even got Boston donuts and Boston cream pie.”

Sunday brunch The restaurant has become wellknown for its weekend brunches which include an impressive buffet and freeflowing Champagne. “The Sunday brunch is a fantastic hit,” says Orta. “The brunch concept has really developed into something big here in Hong Kong in recent years.” “I introduced the brunch [on The Bostonian’s menu] last September and we weren’t sure if it would work but we thought it was worth a try. Why not? Let’s give it a go [we said].” “It had a bit of a slow start then we began to open earlier, which helped. It’s also helped that we have subtle European additions such as foie gras and our oyster selection [at certain times diners can choose from 25 to 30 different varieties in The Bostonian]. We’ve got every type you can image: salty, crunchy, fruity, smooth …”

Orta has been in the hospitality industry for more than 20 years and his experience ranges from classic French cuisine to modern American fare – and now Chinese.

Local palates He was pleasantly surprised to find such an “explosive” food and beverage industry in Hong Kong and says it’s just getting better. “It's becoming more on the radar of celebrity chefs around the world such as Joel Robuchon and Alain Ducasse and it’s only a matter of time before other big names make an appearance here. It’s a fantastic place to be right now in my industry.” Orta says the chefs at The Bostonian may adapt some items on the menu to suit local palates. “We've had to ensure some of the seafood items are not too salty as that’s not a flavor

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Hongkongers like. [But] local palates are sophisticated and not everything has to be Asian style – and they do expect a good fish: we do a great John Dory and red snapper, which are popular.” “Also, fish ‘n’ chips is one of the top sellers in The Bostonian. We had one guest recently who moved hotels just so he could be here to eat our fish ‘n’ chips. He was from the UK and said they were better than back home. It’s really nice to get that type of feedback; it shows us we’re heading in the right direction.”

Something new Orta says he often tries to encourage guests and diners to try something

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new, especially when it comes to wine. “Although our wine list is relatively compact, it’s good quality and has won an award. In Hong Kong the emphasis has been so much on French wine, [specifically] the Bordeaux Right Bank, but I have introduced more New World wines and Australia, New Zealand and America, of course, have some fantastic wines.” “I’ve really tried hard to persuade people here to try something different because sometimes wines such as Bordeaux don’t always complement Chinese food. It needs something a little softer such as Pinots or Cabernets. About 15 percent of our wine list is American. I want to make sure we have all the regions represented.” Orta must be doing something right because he says the hotel has increased its wine sales year-on-year by 27 percent since he’s been there. He says that’s largely due to comprehensive training of staff which is something he focuses on. “I come from a heavy service background and it has been paramount in the organizations I’ve worked for.” “I learnt on the job by watching others more experienced and by listening closely to them. I wanted to share that [experience] with my team here by teaching them to be confident about speaking to guests about wine, for example, which means having tastings and understanding about such things as grape varieties.”

Orta believes good service and engaging staff who are knowledgeable are factors that are every bit as important as the food in a restaurant. “If somebody makes the effort to remember you and your name it makes your meal more memorable.” Making sure the Langham’s three restaurants stay on top of their game is a challenge Orta embraces. One way of doing this, he believes is by organizing events such as the ambitious Langham Food & Wine Festival launching in September. Says Orta: “This is a first for The Langham and, as far as we know, the first of its caliber in Hong Kong – and it’s going to be fantastic. We're working with Langham Place on this and we've invited 15 Michelin star chefs from around the world, such as Albert Roux, as well as some principals of wineries and there will be a host of other culinary delights.” The Langham’s executive chef is Mark Bannon who can be seen in an advertisement for the hotel in which he is pictured kissing a fish. He has been instrumental in introducing sustainable produce on to The Langham restaurants’ menus. Says Orta: “We’re constantly sourcing from different suppliers from around the world who are practicing this concept. Mark and I are both really passionate about this. It adds a little to the costs, but diners appreciate it: they ask us for organic food and sustainable produce and they don’t mind paying a little more. We look for organic farms but obviously we still have to ship it, so it’s not as sustainable as we’d like. It’s something that we’re growing.” Chef Bannon also adapts dishes to suit diners’ requests such as those that are vegetarian or vegan or who have allergies and intolerances. Says Orta: “We can easily adapt because our chefs know how to prepare all kinds of food. [Ultimately] this is an authentic American experience – even the sizes. We aim to provide a place where Americans feel a little closer to home here in Hong Kong.”

California Weather and Wine Vintages By Toby Marion

nter an elevator and someone will say “How’s the weather?” A seemingly harmless question, but really what a fascinating and indeed controversial topic! From global warming to agriculture, life depends on the weather. Wine vintages are particular intriguing, because the weather makes each vintage different, and wine an exciting and new product every year. Even though it’s true that California historically has more stable weather than, say, France in the Old World, the fact is that from 2009 and 2012 we’ve seen large differences that will lead to wonderful variety in wine.

Photo: Thinkstock

The grapes First, let’s talk about grapes. In this article we’ll talk mainly about Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Pinot Noir has been called the “feminine” grape, because it is fickle, difficult to grow and hard to make into good wine. The perfect Pinot is called the “holy grail” of winemaking, and the “the wine of kings.” Pinot has small berries and thin skins, and easily succumbs to rot, mildew and fungus, although it is relatively quick to ripen and hence harder to benefit from a long ripening period. But the wine is exquisite, characterized by light body, silky texture, red fruit aromas and a

wide variety of flavors. Pinot is the most versatile of red wines, matching well with food of all types. Cabernet Sauvignon on the other hand is called the “masculine” grape, because it can grow anywhere, is easy to grow, is big and bold and perhaps not too subtle, and is robust on the vine. It takes longer to harvest so if the weather is very cold or there are late rains, it may not ripen at all. The wine is characterized by heavier body, darker fruits, often greater tannins from the grapes themselves as opposed to from the barrel aging, and by powerful flavors. It is said to be easier to understand, is liked by the majority, and dubbed “the king of wines.”

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Phenology is the study of periodic lifestyle events, and grape growing has four events: bud break, bloom, color change and harvest: Bud break is the vine’s awakening, and occurs in late winter or early spring. Bloom or flowering sets the tiny berries. This is the self-pollination to fertilize the eggs that will become grapes. This happens in late spring. Color change or veraison occurs in summer, and is when the grapes turn red or black, and begin ripening. Finally harvest is when the grapes are picked at the end of summer or early autumn. Grapes are picked at a desired sugar level, measured by Brix normally 24 or 25 for Pinot Noir. Brix is a percentage level of solutes – mostly sugar – in the grapes. So what makes good wine? Weather, not climate, is the critical factor, i.e. what is the weather as the season progresses and how do the grapes mature? Most important are slow growth and maturation allowing a long hang time (the time the grapes spend on the vine), and a cold climate in the weeks before harvest. Long hang time allows the grapes to develop deep and intense flavors. Cold climate before harvest results in good acid levels and structure, not too much sugar and good balance.

The climate What’s special about California? Mainly that there are generally not late winter or early spring rains, which can wash away pollen, prevent set and lead to rot. Also, the weather is generally cool at night, slowing down the ripening after hot, sunny days, and allowing longer hang time. And finally, California has very strong sunshine, thus generally achieving full ripening year after year. Very often, we forget that California is basically desert with many different soil types created by volcanic action and earthquakes over the millennia, made fertile by rivers that are fed by the majestic Sierra Nevada and other mountain ranges. The hot, dry and

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sunny climate of California is thus ideal for wine or vinifera grapes, which make the best wine when the grapes have to struggle the most to survive, all the while developing flavors and character. Now to 2009, with unusually late winter rains that inhibited flowering and led to smaller than normal crop levels. This was followed by cool summer and a temperate growing season producing excellent fruit quality due to the slow steady ripening. Thus 2009 was riper, fruitier and softer, an excellent vintage. There have been more outstanding reviews than any other vintage in recent years. Aging potential will depend on how the tannins are shed over time. Pinot from 2009 shines and Cabernet is perhaps a bit more Old World style, with less boldness and alcohol. And 2010? Again there were late rains giving lower yields and a cold summer meaning slower ripening. So the vineyard managers trimmed the canopies (removed leaves on the vines) to allow more sun to reach the grapes. And suddenly in late August there was a heat wave, which sunburned and fried the grapes (turned them to raisins), with yet more yield loss. But this was followed by a month of cold weather, which, because the grapes were not yet ripe, again allowed long hang time and the development of flavors and acid levels. The result was another excellent vintage, though yields were down. Pinot showed higher acidity and Cabernet more tannin, and thus may take more years for both to develop than the 2009. 2011 experienced late spring damage caused by extensive frosts and cold weather, which killed a lot of the buds, followed by one of the coldest Junes in history, slowing the onset of ripening. Yet the summer developed nicely after that, and with very long hang time it looked to be a brilliant, if late, harvest. Yet nature threw yet another curve as

there were heavy rains and storms in October and November, and vineyard managers and vintners were forced to pick as early for Cabernet and as rapidly as possible, because rains lead to mold and rot and will destroy a vintage. So the vintage again scores well for Pinot quality with lower yields, while Cabernet suffered large losses of yield and may offer more tannic and vegetative characters from less ripening. Finally we’re now in 2012. We don’t yet know the result, but it is looking to be a terrific vintage with ideal conditions throughout the year, up until early August. So let us hope that these conditions prevail and we see a record 2012 harvest because the low yields of the past three years have meant grape scarcity, leading to less wine and higher prices.

How’s the weather? It must be a trick question, because despite the differences each year, the answer is that nearly every year, California manages to produce the hot, dry and sunny weather conditions ideal for growing Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. This plus the many soil types allow vineyards and vintners to create fine wines. So whether it’s Merry Edwards and Freeman from the Russian River Valley, Far Niente, Inglenook and Chimney Rock from Napa Valley, Calera from Mt. Harlan, Justin and J. Lohr from Paso Robles or Sanford and Alma Rosa from Santa Barbara, we can look forward to some terrific wines from the recent vintages. Wines mentioned in the story are available from Golden Gate Wine Company. – Editors’ note

they want to taste, or taste the entire flight in a category (e.g. dozens of Cabernet Sauvignons or Barbera's from around the world) and compare their tasting skills with those of our expert panels. We also include games and wine challenges to enhance the learning experience.

Debra Meiburg

Photo courtesy: Debra Meiburg

Picking Wines for Asian Palates The Cathy Pacific Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition (HKIWSC) 2012 will be held from October 4 to 8. First held in 2008, the competition is now the largest wine competition in Asia. Debra E Meiburg, WM, is the Director of the competition. She talks to biz.hk about the unique event and a few things you should know about pairing wines with Asian cuisines biz.hk: You are the Competition Director of HKIWSC. Can you explain how the competition works? Who can become the judges and do they need any special qualifications? Meiburg: In creating this unique competition, we chose to work only with Asian judges, as our objective is to determine which wines are best suited for Asian taste preferences. We gather wine experts from 12 Asian countries and 18 Asian cities to sip, slurp and spit their way through hundreds of wines per day for a full week. Our criteria are that the judges must be both Asian-born and Asian-based. Exceptions to this rule include me, as Director of the competition, and one VIP International judge each year. This year’s guest VIP judge is American Karen McNeill, a pre-eminent wine educator with the Culinary Institute of America,

author of the best-selling Wine Bible, and voted “Outstanding Wines and Spirits Professional of the Year” by the prestigious James Beard Foundation. biz.hk: Compared with other competitions, what are the unique features of HKIWSC 2012? Meiburg: The Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine & Spirit Competition is the region’s largest and first truly Asian competition. In addition to international and varietal trophies, such as Best Pinot Noir, we offer special trophies for wines produced in China, Thailand, India, Korea and Japan. Additionally, wines compete for trophies in distinctive ‘Food & Wine Matching’ categories. Trophies featuring Chinese dishes include Best Wine with Peking duck, Cantonese

Braised Abalone, Kung Pao Chicken or Dim Sum. As we are a pan-Asian competition, in 2012 we added Japanese Sashimi to the line-up and this year we added signature Thai and Indian dishes. Two other key features are that the judges may not be importers (so as to prevent any hint of bias) and that the judging results are overseen by KPMG. We are the first competition in the world to partner with an auditing firm to ensure the highest integrity of our results. Also, we host wine events year-round to promote the winners: our judges do not just disappear once the spit buckets are emptied! Also to be held in the first week of October is our “Test Your Palate” series where wine lovers can taste the 300-400 wines that were judged earlier in the day. Attendees can choose the wines

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biz.hk: You helped found the HKIWSC four years ago. Can you comment on how the competition has grown in the past four years? Meiburg: From its inaugural year, we have been thrilled by its success, which firmly established the HKIWSC as the largest wine competition in Asia. This is a clear reflective of the region’s robust wine activity. Entries continue to grow and our task is to ensure the gold, silver and bronze medal winners reflect a diverse range of high quality wines suited for Asian tastes and cuisines. biz.hk: What should be the key considerations in matching wines with Asian cuisine? Can you give a few examples of selected wines and some basic rules in selection? Meiburg: That is the 3 billion dollar question! When it comes to Asian cuisines, the traditional rules of pairing food and wine fly out the door. Perhaps you have seen some of my food and wine matching videos in Hong Kong and PRC taxis, where I suggest peering through the glass over your wristwatch to asses the density of color. If you can see the time (through the glass), then serve the wine with light-colored meats. For example, serve pale Pinot Noir with chicken, pork or even fish. If you cannot see the time, then serve these deeply colored, opaque Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel wines with dark meats, such as duck, lamb or beef. Most recently I’ve been experimenting with sauces. At Vinexpo we ran four seminars featuring 16 Chinese sauces again six iconic wine styles. Factors to bear in mind are the wine’s sweetness, acidity, tannins and alcohol level and their interplay with salty soy sauce, monosodium-glutamate enhancements and spicy chili accents. High

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alcohol levels, such as are often found in Californian wines elevate a chili’s heat. Conversely, sweetness tones down chili-heat. If you do not like chili-heat, then ask for a wine with lower alcohol (9-12.5 percent) or with some residual sweetness. If you like chili-heat, then bring on the Zinfandel! During the wine competition, a judge will taste more than 100 wines against the same dish. One of the interesting surprises for us was that an inexpensive sparkling, slightly sweet, rosé won the trophy for Best Wine with Braised Abalone. Most of us would have predicted Pinot Noir as the finest match. And this is why we feel the food & wine-matching portion of the competition is breaking new ground and eliminating clichéd matches. We were equally thrilled in our second year when Hedges Family Estates (supplied by Golden Gate Wine) won the trophy for Best Bordeaux-style under HK$300. Most punters would have bet on a Bordeaux chateau. It was great to see talented palates spot the quality without the shackles of known brands and labels. biz.hk: In general, how would you compare New World wines with their Old World counterparts in 2011/2012? Meiburg: Increasingly the lines are blurred between wines from the Old World (Europe) and New World (all other wine producing regions). Wines from Bordeaux or Chianti now often feature the rich, ripe fruit common of New World regions, such as Napa

Valley and Paso Robles, and likewise New World producers have stopped relying on dense fruit and high alcohol to carry their show. The industry increasingly ascribes the terms ‘modernist’ versus ‘traditionalist’ to define these stylistic differences. Many revered Old World wine regions, such as Bordeaux, Burgundy and Barolo, are located in sites that push the margins climatically to maximize a grape variety’s potential. When Mother Nature doesn’t cooperate, we see substantial vintage variation in quantity and/or quality. California producers face few of these climatic vagaries and so – on the whole – wines from california are fairly consistent from year to year. When it comes to selecting wines from upstate New York and Oregon, it is more important to consider the vintage variation. That said northern California is ecstatic and the 2012 vintage shows great promise after having slogged through three challenging growing seasons. Details of HKIWSC can be found on its website: http:www.hkiwsc. com. A reminder for interested parties that all entry forms must be submitted no later than September 9th. Also, a selection of the 2011 medal winning wines will be served during the upcoming AmCham’s “Let Me Introduce You to Your Tongue” wine course on October 26, led by Debra Meiburg, Master of Wine. – Editor’s note

Where the Money Flows By Nadine Bateman Mathieu Pouchan

don’t have from any other area in France.” In addition, he maintains Bordeaux is easy to understand compared to other wine areas in terms of the appellation system for fine wines and, compared with Burgundy for example, the estates such as Chateau Pauillac, Chateau Margaux and Chateau Lafite and their ilk are easy to remember.

Vintage 2011

ordeaux wines are big business in Asia, especially in Hong Kong and mainland China where they have become the top choice for oenophiles and investors.

Mathieu Pouchan, chief sommelier at etc wine shop that has two stores here in Hong Kong, says Chinese investors have a particular fascination for French wines because of “the historical value” of the estates that produce them.

“Bordeaux is well-known globally – it’s probably the best-known wineproducing region in France,” points out Pouchan. “And then you have the volume – Bordeaux produces 100,000200,000 bottles of wine every year to export to the Asian market, which you

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An expert in Bordeaux en primeur, Pouchan says the latest vintage – 2011 – is worth investing in despite recent fears about its quality and price. “If you speak to any Bordeaux expert they will tell you that 2009 and 2010 were exceptional vintage years [because] the climate was perfect: the weather was hot at just the right time and warm at the right time, and there was just enough rainfall followed by an exceptional after season [when] the ripening of the grapes was really regular. But in 2011, it was not so regular because there were not the right conditions.”

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He says the fact that the previous two years were record years in terms of price, meant that investors and experts feared the primeur wine from 2011 would be sold for the same amount, thus they’d be overpriced. Instead, many chateaux reduced their prices by around 50 percent. “The prices in 2009 and 2010 were insane; crazy. They were the most expensive vintages since 2006 or 1999. But [that’s because] those years are for long-term investment [whereas] the 2011 vintage is for short-term investment. It is much more reasonable, [therefore] you are taking less risk.” The higher prices of 2009/10 meant that it would be difficult to make money after one or two years and investors would have to wait for a decade or more to resell the wine to make any money on it. Continues Pouchan: “When you’re buying wine that costs [for example] HK$10,000 a bottle and waiting a long time before you sell, it’s a long-term investment. When you’re buying wine for HK$5,000 and selling it sooner, then your profit will be quite fast.”

Another factor that could be affecting the price points is that the wine investment market has slowed – even in Asia. Pouchan concedes this but claims it’s “not dramatic” and that it “has had to slow a little bit to find a balance.”

The comparisons Pouchan emphasizes that just because 2011 did not benefit from the same “perfect” conditions as the previous two years, it does not follow that it was a “bad” year. To put it into perspective he draws comparisons with previous years: “I think you could compare 2009 to 1999 – that was a really hot vintage; while 2010 could be compared to 2000 or 1990 [or even] to one of the greatest Bordeaux vintages of the last century which was 1982.” By contrast, he compares 2011 to 2008 and possibly 2001 or 2004, which he calls “a classic vintage.” He says it’s a question of ageing. “The 2009 and 2010 had a strong concentration of tannins and this happens maybe two or three times a decade. For example, [those wines

Wine & Spirits Golden Gate Wine 1006, Tai Yau Building, 181 Johnston Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong

About Wine and Spirits / Company Activity Golden Gate Wine is Hong Kong’s premier importer of California, Oregon and Washington fine American wines. The company imports over 80 brands and 400 handcrafted wines from innovative, independent, and often family-run wineries. Many consistently win high ratings and critical acclaim from trade publications such as Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, The Wine Advocate and Decanter. Golden Gate Wine offers a Fine Wine Club, direct delivery to corporate and private clients, supplies major hotels, restaurants and clubs, and organizes a wide variety of wine tasting events.

from] 1990 are drinking well but they are still powerful – and that’s after 20 years! So, for 2009/10 you will have to wait 20-25 years for the perfect time to drink it. “You can drink it before, of course, but that’s when it will be at its peak.”

Pairing wine If anyone knows about Bordeaux wine it is Pouchan who hails from the South West of France just south of Bordeaux where there was “always a bottle of wine on the table when I was growing up.” As a sommelier, he has worked in Michelin-starred restaurants in Bordeaux, Paris, Canada and Japan. Even after nine years specializing in wine, he says there is always more to learn and he “discovers something new every day.” Since arriving in Hong Kong he has learnt about pairing wine with Chinese food and says “you have to be careful” because the flavors are often quite delicate. “For me, I will start with white wine. This is because there is a lot of fish in Cantonese cuisine. The meat, of course, I will pair with red. For the red I will go mostly with the Right Bank and I will look for wine with fruitiness and not

too strong acidity or tannin, such as the Merlot-based Bordeaux wine.” “For example, I would recommend wines from the Chateau Magdelaine estate vintage 2005 [which has] a little bit of sweet fruit with low acidity and low tannin and it’s really well balanced. It’s perfect for Chinese cuisine. For

dumplings, which don’t have a strong taste and have a mellow texture too, you have to find a wine that is elegant and delicate. I would go with a Cote de Beaune or a Margaux because it’s quite elegant and won’t destroy the taste of the dumpling and soft texture.”

Product: Wine Tel: (852) 2891 8181 Fax: (852) 2891 8608 Email: sales@goldengatewine.com Contact Person: Toby Marion, Fifi Smith, Clio Chan

www.goldengatewine.com

Investment worthy Mathieu Pouchan invites wine investors to visit bordeaux etc in Causeway Bay, where over 70 labels in the 2011 campaign are for sale including the following three wines he considers investment-worthy: Chateau Latour, Pauillac Thought to be the top wine of 2011, this is the last chance to purchase en primeur from Latour as the Chateau recently announced plans to withdraw its wine from sale before it is bottled. The wine offers a red berry, cassis, smoke and earthy nose. The palate is all about tannins and tension with a long and fresh finish. HK$5,346 (this represents 48 percent decrease in price compared to 2010 and 2009 en primeur).

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, St Julien This wine carries an expressive nose of cassis cream, licorice and earth. Although the palate has great acidity and quite powerful tannins, it will need a few years to find its balance but the class and wine raciness is already present. HK$891 (this is around 50 percent lower in price compared to 2010 and 58 percent decrease compared to 2009 en primeur). Tertre Roteboeuf , St Emilion This wine offers a very pure bouquet with great precision and “minerality”. It features a lovely aroma of red fruits with silky tannins. HK$1,286 (this is around 10 percent lower in price compared to 2010 and 2009 en primeurs).

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Wine & Dine Cafe Renaissance

Crystal Lotus Restaurant

Mezzanine Floor, Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel

About The Restaurant About The Restaurant

Cuisine: International Average Food Cost: HK$150 - HK$600 Opening Hours: Operation Hours: 06:30am – 00:30am (Mon - Sun) Buffet Breakfast: 07:00am – 10:30am (Mon - Sun) Buffet Lunch: 12:00pm – 02:30pm (Mon - Fri) Buffet Dinner: 06:30pm – 10:00pm (Mon - Sun) Brunch: 11:30am – 02:30pm (Sat, Sun & Public Holidays))

www.renaissanceharbourviewhk.com 18

Café Renaissance serves wholesome breakfast, chef crafted lunch and dinner buffets plus a la carte menu daily and brunch on weekends in a warm and intriguing atmosphere. In addition to the great array of seafood delights using the freshest ingredients, guests can also enjoy a tantalizing array of international favourites and local specialties from live cooking stations. The culinary team uses only the best ingredients to create an impeccable experience for guests. Wholesome breakfast buffet includes a wide array of delicacies to energize guests in the beginning of a new day. Extensive food choices at the lunch buffet allow guests to savor and relax in the middle of a busy day. Not-to-be missed, live cooking stations are featured at dinner buffet, where chefs can showcase their gastronomic techniques in front of guests. An exquisitely prepared a la carte menu, providing diverse choices, from salad, hamburger, pasta, European, American and Asian specialties, healthy dining options to kid’s menu. The dynamic and lively Café Renaissance is located on Mezzanine Floor at the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong. For more information or reservations, please call (852) 2584 6970.

For Reservation

Finest Cuisines and Wines in Disney Style Crystal Lotus, Hong Kong Disneyland Hotel's Chinese restaurant, immerses you in a sensory feast – with the entire interior themed around the five Chinese elements and lotus flowers – before taking you on a culinary journey of the finest food and wine. Take your pick from authentic Chinese dishes overseen by executive chef Leung Shu Wah and exclusive Disney dim sum, including the award-winning "Twin Fish Dumplings in Lotus Pond", which really does taste as good as it looks. What's more, a carefully compiled drinks menu featuring some of the finest American and French wines will satisfy the most sophisticated palates. Award-winning food created by master chefs, international wine to wash it down with and the most breathtaking surroundings… Your tastes buds are in for a truly magical time!

Cuisine: Chinese Average Food Cost: >HK$200 per person Opening Hours (valid till Sept 30 2012): Monday – Friday 12:00 p.m. – 14:30 p.m. 18:00 p.m. – 22:30 p.m. Saturday – Sunday & Public Holiday 11:00 a.m. – 15:00 p.m. 18:00 p.m. – 22:30 p.m.

www.hongkongdisneyland.com

Tel: (852) 2584 6970

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Twin Fish Dumplings in Lotus Pond “Twin Fish Dumplings in Lotus Pond” is one of the award-winning dim Sum of “The Best of the best Culinary Awards 2009 / Gold with Distinction – Dim Sum Category”. Infused with fresh garoupa and prawn, this dish showcase detailed craftsmanship with unique presentation. Reserve 3 days in advance to try this delightful dish!

Tasmanian Crab and Pumpkin stuffed in Whole Crab Shell “Tasmanian Crab and Pumpkin stuffed in Whole Crab Shell” is another signature dish of Crystal Lotus. Crab meat and pumpkin pair perfectly with each other. A must to try!

For Reservation Tel: (852) 3510 6000

Wine & Dine Holiday Inn Golden Mile

Pierside Bar & Restaurant

M/F, Holiday Inn Golden Mile, 50 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon

Upper Lobby, Towers Wing, The Royal Pacific Hotel & Towers, China Hong Kong City, 33 Canton Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

About The Restaurant

Savour the taste of Italy at Osteria Ristorante Italiano The dining experience at Osteria begins the moment a guest steps inside the contemporary setting of this restaurant. It exudes a classic and yet avant-garde appeal. On the culinary front, timeless specialties are what Osteria is all about, from the richly enticing menu with remains true to Italian heritage. Boasting a number of signature dishes skillfully prepared by head chef Paolo Federici, such as real Italian-style pizza, fresh homemade pastas, various kind of classic risotto, tiramisu and other traditional dessert. For a sampling of traditional Italian dishes at great value, Osteria’s three-course lunch begins with a mouthwatering appetizer buffet, followed by an à la carte entrée and dessert buffet. Available Monday to Friday, it is priced at HK$218*. While the seafood appetizer buffet lunch available every Saturday and Sunday, featuring an assortment of delectable seafood dishes with Italian flair is HK$258* only. For an authentic Italian experience, come to Osteria Ristorante Italiano!

Enjoy extra discounts by downloading The Holiday Inn Golden Mile iphone app

For Reservation

www.sino-hotels.com/The_Royal_Pacific_Hotel_and_Towers/ en/Dining_and_Entertainment/Pierside_Bar_Restaurant.aspx

Tel: (852) 2315 1010 Fax: (852) 2366 6221 E-mail: osteria@goldenmile.com

The Langham, Hong Kong

hongkong.langhamhotels.com 20

For Reservation Tel: (852) 2738 2398 Contact Person: Mr. Steven Lau E-mail: rphpsi@royalpacific.com.hk

Prompt

8 Peking Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Cuisine: Steak & Seafood Average Price: HK$300 - HK$700 Seating Capacity: 112 Opening Hours: Lunch: Monday – Saturday 12:00 noon – 3:00pm Brunch: Sunday 11:00am – 2:30pm Dinner: Monday – Sunday 6:30pm – 11:00pm

Cuisine: Bar & Restaurant Average Food Cost: HK$350/person Opening Hours: Restaurant: Monday – Friday 12:00 noon - 03:00 pm, 06:00 pm – 11:00 pm Saturday – Sunday & Public Holiday 06:00 pm – 11:00 pm Bar: Daily 03:00 pm – 01:00 am

The Pierside Bar & Restaurant offers a unique combination of indoor and outdoor dining experience. With its absolute waterfront setting, jaw-dropping views of Victoria Harbour are guaranteed. The stylish eatery sprawls over two floors, with the 60-seater dining room and open kitchen on the upper level and the bar with an area open up to the waterfront on the lower. The restaurant also showcases local arts in partnership with Antalis, the French global paper supplier, with themes that changes every quarter. Nightly live music is also performed on the restaurant’s baby grand piano. From business lunches, romantic dinners to private parties, Pierside’s culinary offerings include a 3-course set lunch with delectable appetizers and desserts spread, and seasonal wine-pairing dinner menus, as well as tailor-made party package for all.

L4, Le Meridien Cyberport , 100 Cyberport Road, Hong Kong

About The Restaurant

Located at the lower lobby level of The Langham, Hong Kong, The Bostonian has an excellent reputation for its superb steaks and its sustainable seafood menu. Aesthetically this restaurant is impressive boasting a vast collection of modern art that adorns the walls. Featured by one of Hong Kong’s influential restaurant bibles, “The Hong Kong Best Restaurant Guide” since 2000, The Bostonian is a hallmark for impeccable service and exceptional food. Guests can indulge in a tantalizing array of fresh seafood from around the world. The enticing menu also includes gourmet favourites such as Maine crab cake, pan-fried scallops with apple braised organic pork belly; John Dory; the Original Boston clam chowder; Lobster bisque; a Make your own Bostonian grill; and separate menus for the restaurant’s specialties – the Boston Lobster Galore, Seafood Sharing Platters and Bostonian Grill.

The airy, relaxed setting of this modern restaurant, including romantic alfresco dining, offers the ideal ambiance for delightful meals created in the bright, open-gallery kitchen, and an extensive wine lists to choose from. For families feeling the need to escape from the chaos and fumes of city-life, head out to Le Meridien Cyberport to enjoy a refreshing break with a Sunday Brunch at our modern-chic restaurant, Prompt. You can relax and linger over the meal, while the Kids Corner in Sunset, along with its sweeping views of the South China Sea, offers children a great retreat with magic shows and balloon twisting. Starting from 11:30am to 3:00pm on every Sunday and Public Holiday, Sunday Brunch is priced at HKD538 per person. Unlimited Moet & Chandon Champagne is available with an additional HKD150.

Cuisine: International Average Food Cost: HK$200 - HK$500 Opening Hours: 06:30am – 10:30pm

For Reservation

www.lemeridien.com/hongkong

Tel: (852) 2132 7898

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Tel: (852) 2980 7417 E-mail: prompt.lmc@lemeridien.com