// TREND TREND BOOK BOOK //
Amelia Hobson
ASA TREND COLLECTIVE
A/W 17/18
// WHO WHO ARE ARE WE ??// The ASA Trend Collective is an innovative platform, and a forward thinking fashion capsule. Not only researching into clothing led specifics, but divulging into other industries, such as Architecture, Film and Politics. The gap between the consumer and the brand is often a large one, and we as a collective build bridges, and connect the future of fashion trends.
in in this this book book 1- Visual Merchandising Trends GLOW UP LEAF IT INDOORS SOFT CONCRETE
13- Print and Graphic Trends DECLINE THE TIME PLAY THE ODDS CLASH OF PLANS
25- Active Wear Trends URBAN RECREATION NEON RAGE UGLY LUXE
1
VM TREND
GLOW UP
Innovatively invisible, and cleverly concealed, Neon lights may be discreetly decorative, and merchandising has considerably contributed to this trend. Such as space dividers or wall treatments, as well as lighting and large scale window displays. Using multipurpose solutions such as fixtures which double up as light sources, carving out an architectural form, to further augment this minimalist but extroverted concept. Fig 1 SelgasCanos Serpentine Gallery Pavilion.
This trend has a feeling of fragility whilst adding an emotive layer to a such sculptural installation, playing with solid and void spaces, manipulating or interrupting shadows and highlights. Fig 3 Giorgia Zanellato.
Fig 4 Larry Bell.
Fig 2 SelgasCanos Serpentine Gallery Pavilion.
‘GLOW UP’ can emulate the ethereal, featuring a dreamlike, undulating landscape, translucent fabrics lining the interior. Known as ethereal psychedelia, disrupting the senses. The trend centres on immersive or experimental installations, compromising darkened spaces, ethereal lighting, mesmerising shows, kinetic elements, and psychedelic details or patterns. Continually changing coloured lights emphasise and enhance the subject. Fig 5 Philippe Rahm.
LIght LIGHT it IT up UP
Fig 6 Team Lab. Fig 7 Hudson and Broad.
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
Punchy Peach
Bright White
Funky Fuschia
Halt to the red
Twilight
Burnt Neon
VM TREND
LEAF LEAF IT IT INDOORS INDOORS
Not traditional foliage, it has been updated with a luxe spin, or artsy compositions. Taking the roll as some kind of form of nature’s finest, a wall or decorative element. Maybe even suspended and playfully reworked, creating an element of curiosity, ultimately inspired by the outdoors. The natural interior is representative of the outside surroundings, so consumers respond positively a calming, stress releasing instore experience. Fig 8 Ilco Kemmere.
Fig 9 Miralles Tagliabue.
A mix of urban and rural landscapes, this area is picturesque, a textural contrast. Raw and organic qualities are transformed into something more contemporary, eco conscious design becomes more elevated. A conclusion: A chemical reaction that can expand into structures.
Fig 10 Miralles Tagliabue.
Blurring The the Boundaries boundaries
The instore installations are made up of translucent materials, to create the illusion of preservation, blurring the boundaries between the indoor and the outdoor, a space that communicates with the natural atmosphere. Ample glass walls, to generate a sense of calm and openness.
Fig 11 chair by Marjan Van Aubel + James Shaw.
Fig 13 LA VOUTE DE LEFEVRE.
Fig 12 Apple, San Fran.
Fig 14 Aesop, Sapporo.
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
Foliage
Ceramic cool
Moss takeover
Colder than cold
Sacred Rock
Lies Beneath
VM TREND
soft SOFT concrete CONCRETE A luxe spin on the traditional industrial aesthetic. Faux concrete walls become suede like, providing a neutral but complimentary backdrop to breeze block style decorative. Elevated mirrored plinths, complete with mirror panel backdrops, extremely complimentary of colourways.
Fig 15 Lonely store Auckland.
Fig 16 Acne Seoul.
Fig 18 & Other Stories, Paris.
This trend meets the domestic, and concrete is softened with crumpled edges and a chalky finish. Or tarnished metals, to result a pretty or romantic element. It can be soft; mosaics, and metallics, or exposed brick to serve as core visuals. Galvanised metal displays, a petrol toned surface, to emulate a holographic arrangement.
Fig 17 Acne Seoul.
Fig 19 Jamie North, Terraforms.
Feminine brutalist, materials combined in unexpected ways. The Luxury complimented by the everyday. High meets low aesthetic, low value materials such as concrete are being used against delicate fabrics, and a soft colour pallet. The soft juxtaposed by the roughness of raw materials. An overall balance, a mix of masculine and feminine that perfectly epitomises this trend.
a A mix of masculine and feminine
Fig 20 Ohdeeh, Berlin.
Fig 21 Cabane de Zucca Store.
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
Hardware
Intense futurism
Royal Contrast
That Structure
Grey Outlook
Warm Rock
13
A political stunt, your opinion, diverted through fashion, to create a timeless piece with a personal voice. These messages empower women and declare inclusivity. These basic tees become a vehicle for driving politics into popular culture, emblazoned with statements of unity. Centralised, and bold, a sans-serif type face dominates the message, and hand painted phrases imply they’ve come straight from a protest, raw and fresh.
Print & Graphic Trend Fig 22 Public School Ready to wear A/W17
DECLINE DECLINE THE THE TIME TIME
WELCOME TO FUTURE FEMALE Feminist messages range from selflove and body positive messaging to be more politically motivating, to fight the patriarchy. Hence the future is female taglines. Slogans express solidarity, and empowerment on the streets.
Fig 25 Gucci Fall 17’
Fig 23 Prabal Gurung Fall 17’
Fig 24 Creatures of comfort Fall 17’
Fig 27 Walter Van Beirendock 15’
Pink surfaces, bright to a subtle mauve. Simply a reaction of what’s happening right now, emulating positivity.
Fig 26 Monki Product Shot.
Fig 28 UO Product Shot.
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
Ruby Rage
Find the Light
Girls Blue
My voice
Back Lash
Felt Black
Being odd and playful speaks volumes, and communicates some kind of fashion voice/ or persona, it abandons the everyday, and constraints on colour and scale. Any size fits, and any colour go’s. Fluffy dimensions, and oddly placed colour, random badges and clips to result in a fashion quirk. Eccentric appliques off odd characters creates a light hearted mood.
Print & Graphic Trend
PLAY THE ODDS Fig 29 Fall Moschino Ready to wear 14’
Fig 30 Christopher Kane Fall 2016
Fig 31 Y-3 Trainer. Fig 32 Moschino A/W 15’.
uber uBER weird WEIRD The Instagram sensations push this trend, exploring creativity via one’s self-promotion online. Laced with humour and oddly abbreviated youthful slang to create some kind of societal group. Hyped brands lead the way on creating viral quirks.
Fig 34 Vetamemes product.
Fig 33 Moschino A/W 15’
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
Ducks
Inbetween
Childs Play
Whimsical Red
Oddly Placed
Tangerine
Clash of plans is a trend that brings together mixed media. May it be in garments, it manipulates perceptions in terms of volume and texture. Often used with sketch imagery and nontraditional materials such as silicon, moulded latex, and hair to create a directional collection. Low grade industrial waste materials are improvised into new yarns for zero waste creativity. It also explores a multisensory, playful approach, A brash of confidence to encourage bolder, and more expressive designs.
Print & Graphic Trend Fig 35 Hayley Grundmann.
CLASH CLASH OF OF PLANS PLANS
Fig 36 Fydor Golan S/S 15’
Fig 37 Eloise Hindle.
Playful Playful Mix mix up up
Prints become liberated and get creative with mark making and textures, to embrace the imperfect. Bold and heavier brush strokes feel new for this work in progress trend, adding an anarchic edge to textiles and product.
Fig 38 Eloise Hindle.
Trims and embellishment become the forefront of the design, specialising in creative decoration. Clusters of crystal beads and faceted jewels creating perspective to regular surfaces. It becomes a surreal pattern story, painterly effects distort and surprise.
Fig 39 Hayley Grundmann.
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
Pick n Mix
Foam Bananas
Cross Over
Rawness
Fab Lollies
Media Mixup
25
Elevated basics emerge as the new norm with unnecessary details removed to create classic silhouettes. Enhanced by the core palette of black, blue and grey, the pieces are timeless. These pieces are designed for life rather than just a season, and brings together the gap between fashion and sport. Less focus on compression and greater focus on comfort and movement, with cocooning silhouettes and a new pretty meets gritty aesthetic.
Active wear Trend Fig 40 T by Alexander Wang s16’
URBAN URBAN Recreation Recreation
Fig 41 Nike.
Fig 42 Kith Aspen. Fig 43 Laain Sports.
Mixes contemporary styling with pragmatic performance design details. Blurring lines between sportswear and day to day wear, traditional and multifunctional.
Fig 44 Oysho Active.
Multi-Functional
Fig 45 Dion Lee 17’
A modern commute comes more active and adventurous; a new focus is played on outdoors – office to sportswear. Eschewing old norms and embracing ambiguity, balance between tough and feminine. A sense of authenticity and urban cool.
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
and Relax
Active Norm
Cool Down
Slouch Luxe
Wool Grey
In a Rush
A major colour clash, used as a sharp and decisive force, especially in Active wear. Powerfully employed with unexpected tones deliberately used to call out form and function. This new era precision colour blocking is bold and confounding, used in both main body and accent garments. High performance trims are inspired by HI-VIS neon colour and a graphic contrast. A bright teamed with a core black or charcoal grey is used to flatter the body, and create an athletic shape.
Active wear Trend Fig 46 Maria Svarbova, 2016, The swimming pool.
NEON NEON RAGE RAGE
A nonconformist fun direction that redefines taste levels and appeals to the millennials. Uncomfortable pairings of colour are brought together to subvert visual perceptions. Creates a distinctive message.
Fig 47 Nike Pop up store NYC.
Fig 48 Bose Product shot.
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A A NEON neon FLUX flux
Fig 49 Jeremy Scott x Adidas 13’
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
Lime Crime
In your Face
Dusky Divide
Primary Choice
Loudness
House of Sun
The curious and the odd are combined with classic sport shapes, immediately transformed with bold and fearless innovation. Once functional silhouettes, they are reinterpreted in pairings of plush material that visually juxtapose, and initially seem odd. However, they come together with an intriguing harmony. Premium products ae playfully redone with an unconventional twist.
Active wear Trend Fig 53 Prada 15’ Vogue
UGLY UGLY LUXE LUXE
ugly Ugly meets luxe
Fig 54 Off White pre Fall 16’
Fig 55 Mark Newsom x LV
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GM
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Fig 56 Louboutin x LV
cOLOUR colour WAYS WAYS
Diar Blue
Vegetation
Off Mustard
Blended
Under the skin
Check the date
// lIST List OF of ILLUSTRATIONS ILLUSTRATIONS // Fig 1: Iwan Baan, 2015, Selgascano Serpentine gallery pavilion. (Photograph) Available at: http://www.archdaily.com/782731/julia-peyton-jones-wins-ada-louisehuxtable-prize. (Accessed 8th May) Fig 2: Amy Frearson, SelgasCanos Serpentine Gallery Pavilion, 2015 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2015/10/16/serpentine-gallery-pavilion-selgascano-closing-move-los-angeles-second-home-movie/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 3: Giorgia Zanellato, Mirage, 2015 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.sightunseen.com/2015/06/italian-product-designer-giorgia-zanellato/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 4: Larry Bell, The California Light and Space revival, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.sightunseen.com/2016/02/week-of-february-8-2016/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 5: Philippe Rahm, Termodinamica, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.iaacblog.com/2014/04/25/martes-29-de-felipe-rahm-termodinamica-ciudades-abril/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 6: Team Lab, Tokyo Japanese collective, 2016, (Photograph) Available at: http://www.designboom.com/art/teamlab-dmm-planets-art-tokyo-digital-art-exhibition-07-13-2016/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 7: Hudson and Broad, Light stick Exhibition, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: WGSN (Accessed 8th May) Fig 8: Ilco Kemmere, Exhibition design by Sabine Marcelis. (Photograph) Available at: https://www.mae-engelgeer.nl/textile-hues/(Accessed 8th May) Fig 9+10: Courtesy of Miralles Tagliabue, MIRALLES TAGLIABUE EMBT, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.mirallestagliabue.com/project/clichy-montfermeil-metro-station/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 11: Petr Krejci, well proven chair by marjan van aubel + james shaw, 2012 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.designboom.com/design/waste-wood-and-bioresin-chair-by-marjan-van-aubel-jamie-shaw/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 12: Nick Statt, Apple store San Fran, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.theverge.com/2016/5/19/11715726/apple-flagship-store-opening-san-francisco-photos (Accessed 8th May) Fig 13: Anonymous, LA VOUTE DE LEFEVRE, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: https://archpaper.com/2012/09/la-voute-de-lefevre-a-study-in-stereotomy/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 14: Takumi Ota, Aesop Sapporo, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2016/03/31/case-real-aesop-sapporo-store-interior-design-japan-snowy-mountains/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 15: Mademois Elle, 2017, Lonely store Auckland. (Photograph) Available at: http://www.mademois-elle.com/lonely/(Accessed 8th May) Fig 16:+17: Sophie Hicks, Acne Studios, Seoul Flagship, 2015 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2015/09/23/sophie-hicks-conceals-concrete-monster-within-translucent-walls-acne-studios-seoul-flagship/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 18: Courtesy of & Other Stories, Store in Paris, 2015 (Photograph) Available at: http://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/gallery/hm-to-open-other-storiesin-italy/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 19: Jamie North, Terraforms, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.behance.net/gallery/17521389/Terraforms-2014 (Accessed 8th May) Fig 20: Harry Webber, Odeeh Berlin Store, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2014/04/11/zigzag-cement-board-berlin-clothing-store-odeehzeller-and-moye/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 21: Takumi Ota, Cabane de Zucca store, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.urdesignmag.com/architecture/2014/09/22/cabane-de-zucca-shop-atshibuya-parco-by-schemata-architects/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 22: Luca Tombolini, 2017, Public School Ready to wear A/W17 collection, Vogue (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017ready-to-wear/public-school(Accessed 8th May) Fig 23: Umberto Fratini, Prabal Gurung, Fall 17 Ready to wear, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/prabal-gurung/slideshow/collection (Accessed 8th May) Fig 24: Courtesy of Creatures of Comfort, Fall 17, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/creatures-of-comfort/slideshow/collection#38 (Accessed 8th May) Fig 25: Yannis Vlamos, Gucci Fall 17 Ready to wear, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/gucci/slideshow/ collection (Accessed 8th May) Fig 26: Monki Product shot, Power Pussy tee, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.monki.com/gb/View_all_new (Accessed 8th May) Fig 27: Marie-AmĂŠlie Tondu, Walter Van Beirendock, 2015 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/23326/1/walter-van-beirendonckmakes-anti-terror-statement-for-aw15 (Accessed 8th May) Fig 28: Urban Outfitters product shot, More self love hoodie, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.urbanoutfitters.com/en-gb/shop/bdg-more-self-love-bluehoodie-001 (Accessed 8th May)
// lIST List OF of ILLUSTRATIONS ILLUSTRATIONS // Fig 29: Yanni Vlamos, 2014, Fall Moschino Ready to wear Fall 14 collection, Vogue (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2014ready-to-wear/moschino/slideshow/collection(Accessed 8th May) Fig 30: Jason Lloyd Evans, Christopher Kane Fall 16, 2016, (Photograph) Available at: https://www.dewmagazine.com/christopher-kane-fall-2016-rtw/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 31: Peter Saville, Y-3 Bright Trainers, 2013 (Photograph) Available: https://www.dezeen.com/2013/10/28/spring-summer-2014-footwear-by-y-3-and-peter-saville-for-adidas/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 32: Courtesy of Jeremy Scott, Resort 16, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.neatorama.com/neatopicto/2015/06/23/Sale-Tag-Dress/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 33: Courtesy of Style.com, Moschino A/W 15, 2015 (Photograph) Available at: https://confessionsofsophie.wordpress.com/2015/02/27/moschino-aw-15-review/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 34: Courtesy of Vetememes, Raincoat 2.0, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vetememes.com/product/vetememes (Accessed 8th May) Fig 35: Hayley Grundmann, 2015, Central St Martins Grad Hayley Grundman collection (Photograph) Available at: http://1granary.com/central-saint-martins-fashion/ma/hayley-grundmann-2/(Accessed 8th May) Fig 36: Kris Atomic, Fydor Golan ss 15, 2015 (Photograph) Available at: https://photos.krisatomic.com/home/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 37+38: Eloise Hindle, WGSN report, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.texprint.org.uk/index.php/news?page=3 (Accessed 8th May) Fig 39: Hayley Grundmann, 2015, Central St Martins Grad Hayley Grundman collection (Photograph) Available at: http://1granary.com/central-saint-martins-fashion/ma/hayley-grundmann-2/(Accessed 8th May) Fig 40: Courtesy of T by Alexander Wang, 2016, T by Alexander Wang s16 Ready to wear (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring2016-ready-to-wear/t-by-alexander-wang/slideshow/collection (Accessed 8th May) Fig 41: Johanna Schneider, NikeLab x JFS Collection, 2015 (Photograph) Available at: http://news.nike.com/news/nikelab-presents (Accessed 8th May) Fig 42: Ronnie Fieg, Kith Aspen collection, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2016/12/11/ronnie-fieg-kith-aspen-collection/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 43: Net a Porter Product shot, Laain Sports, (Photograph) Available at: https://www.net-a-porter.com/gb/en/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 44: Oysho product shot, Oysho Active wear, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.modamarcas.com/2012/09/07/mira-los-looks-de-oysho-en-su-coleccion-gym-wear/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 15: Courtesy of Dion Lee, Dion Lee Resort 17, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2017/dion-lee/slideshow/collection#11 (Accessed 8th May) Fig 46: Maria Svarbova, 2016, The swimming pool. (Photograph) Available at: http://designcollector.net/likes/the-swimming-pool-series-by-maria-svarbova (Accessed 8th May) Fig 47: David Alee, Nike pop up store NY, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.dezeen.com/2014/08/08/robert-storey-studio-nike-pop-up-shop-new-york/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 48: Anonymous, Bose Product shot, (Photograph) Available at: https://www.bose.co.uk/en_gb/index.html (Accessed 8th May) Fig 49: Anonymous, Jeremy Scott x Adidas 13, 2013 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.blendbureaux.com/jeremy-scott-adidas-fw-2013/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 50: Jeff Kravitz, Bella Hadid Red Adidas Tracksuit, Getty Images, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: http://hellogiggles.com/bella-hadid-missy-elliott-tracksuit/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig 51: Nathan Perkel, Heron Preston’s DSNY Collaboration, 2016 (Photograph) Available at: https://hypebeast.com/2016/9/heron-preston-dsny-pricing (Accessed 8th May) Fig 52: INDIGITAL, Buisness of Fashion, Versus Ready to wear Autumn 17, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/fashion-week/2017aw/versus/collection/look/35 (Accessed 8th May) Fig 53: Monica Feudi, 2015, Prada Fall 15 Ready to wear collection, Vogue, (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-ready-towear/prada/slideshow/collection#8 (Accessed 8th May) Fig 54: Courtesy of Off-White, 2016, Pre fall 16, Vogue (Photograph) Available at: http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/pre-fall-2016/off-white/slideshow/collection (Accessed 8th May) Fig 55+56: Karl Lagerfeld, Mark Newsom x LV backpack, Harpers Bazaar, 2014 (Photograph) Available at: http://www.designboom.com/design/louis-vuitton-iconoclasts-series-frank-gehry-marc-newson-09-11-2014/ (Accessed 8th May) Fig57: Courtesy of MGSM, Resort 17 collection, Vogue, 2017 (Photograph) Available at: https://www.vogue.nl/fashion/shows/gallery/msgm-resort-2017/foto-mr2017-2 (Accessed 8th May)
AMELIA HOBSON
A/W 17/18 TREND BOOK
ASA TREND COLLECTIVE