ANT fashion magazine Preview

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THE NETHER&NDS/ BELGIUM € 10

magazine of the amsterdam fashion institute

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8TH EDITION: 2011/ 2012

featuring the

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celebrating absurd creative passion

the good side of bad taste

grandma’s take on modern menswear

blue jacket & bodysuits albert cuyp market, grey jacket h&m

simon says ...

untitled, ink on book page, 2011

eyes and intuition Using ink, fine liner and paper from vintage books, artist Louis Reith creates dynamic works. His imposing images are built from geometrical forms, thin lines and graphic letter shapes. After playing his favorite song of the week, cleaning up his desk, organizing his tools and staring out of his window for quite some time, Louis starts working. His pieces start with a theme and usually contain a certain hidden message.

Sometimes Louis’ pieces consist of a word, while at other times they translate certain environments like mountain landscapes. In order to keep the mind fresh and inspired, Louis is usually up for an experiment. He makes personal pieces in which he draws names of friends or does swaps with other artists. Although a bike ride through the city of Amsterdam serves as fuel to the brain, most indispensable to Louis are his eyes and intuition.

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louisreith.com

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untitled, collage and ink on book page, 2011

don’t fall in love with me yet photography: sanja marusic styling & concept: therÊse Üstelius hair & make-up: elyse moland model: simone de rijk

cape & collar collectie arnhem, pants bas kosters at spice pr

a peculiar girl in love with a peculiar world

photograph by daniel alexander

thomas and his toaster interview by eve keskinen

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Have you ever wondered how much effort it takes to make a toaster? Thomas Thwaites did. He set out on a mission taking passion to absurdity to make a simple household toaster from scratch. You have to admire his determination that cost him ÂŁ1187.54 and 30,000 km traveling around the world trying to extract metal from a mine and attempting to make plastic out of potato starch.

The concept of time in fashion is as abstract as time itself. There is no now: the past is the future, and the future might as well be the present. The cycle of fashion is either spinning at full speed or almost standing still – there is no way to know which is right or wrong.

How does one capture a snapshot of fashion when there are essentially no rules, and the rules that do exist are likely to change at the next moment?

You could try to capture the feeling of the times in a photograph. A photo is something carefully planned, aiming to capture the perfect moment that could vanish in a split second. Once captured it will always exist but will never be repeated again.

You have captured a moment, what now? Wait, the next moment is already here and the image has been replaced by another and forgotten.

chasing words by anni truu

image stills by eve keskinen & anni truu

If there is one quality that defines fashion, it would be movement. Fashion is something that never stops and constantly recreates itself. Film is seemingly the perfect medium to catch the fluidity of fashion. The problem with film is that as fashion evolves organically, it is an insincere mimic of reality and is therefore perfectly fabricated.

Each scene is rehearsed, adjusted and planted by someone and is repeated as long as it is needed to catch the ideal moment. Film moves, but you can also pause and rewind it. Setting up the perfect scene can paradoxically lead to missing that unique instant. Since moments in real life pass by as time continues to progress.

Fashion has created its own time span for a film: a short impression that leaves you with a feeling that is gone in an instant. The short fashion film that rarely lasts longer than ten minutes displays an array of patterns, atmospheres and moods. In fact, two minutes would be enough, as most fashion films are simply decorated impressions without purpose. Still, a fashion photo in a magazine carries a story – something is changing and evolving. Fashion films are just visual effects, made up of empty moments. Although the fashion that is captured in these films is up-to-date, the result often lacks meaning.

g fashion 69

There just might be an ideal time dimension for fashion use a line called ‘real time’. Live streaming, for example, shows life as it happens without delays or designed realities. It is something that is seen through the eyes of the viewer and because of this, we are able to conjure our own image from it. Like fashion is constantly updated, and is full of unexpected moments with rules that cannot be followed. Filled with interviews where real people act naturally and experiment without success, live streaming leaves room for the mishaps of reality. Fashion is caught and presented with all its virtues and flaws.

We are no longer interested in perfectly constructed realities. The static worlds of photography and film sets that we know cannot possibly exist in reality. Fashion is as sudden and instinctual as a spoken word in a conversation. The only genuine way to capture fashion is to present it as it happens.

It cannot be paused, designed or rewound – it can only be replaced by what is yet to come.

rituals

ANT interviews three enchantingly talented international artists and designers to discover the secrets behind their idiosyncrasies, both in the preparation and in the midst of their creative process. Toronto-based painter Brian Donnelly, London-based fashion designer Ireneo Ciamella and Swedish illustrator and artist Camilla Engman uncover the reality of their very particular working habits, as well as some comical quirks that we discovered along the way.

shirt velour, pants acne, socks henrik vibskov, shoes church

shirt american apparel, pants cos