Zipped Magazine Spring 2011

ZIPPED SPRING 2011 your student fee

spring's pale new

forms

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underneath it all:

Behind the Bra +

trend to try

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contents

zipped

Spring 2011 | issue 7 | Zipped magazine

Editorial Molly Gallagher Editor-in-Chief

briefs

Alyssa Grossman Managing Editor

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STYLE FILES The latest in fashion news: MAC Cosmetics goes bold with new Wonder Woman collection, Target and Calypso St. Barth team up, the Met’s Costume Institute receives a $10 million donation, and more.

features

Samantha Corbin Creative Director Hannah Slocum Fashion Editor LaTimberly Johnson Associate Fashion Editor

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Liz Gravier Associate Features Editor Mohammad Diallo Contributing Fashion Editor

ZIPCODE SU student accents her fashion career with her own accessory line.

Photo & Design

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Angela Laurello Art Director

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Aaron Katchen Associate Photo Director

Guys Unzipped Neon basics headline men’s fashion this season.

INTIMACY UNCLASPED The $11 billon lingerie industry commands a significant share of the fashion industry through sex appeal and fashion-forward underwire.

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IN THE NUDE Step into spring with softer colors.

Danielle Carrick Photo Director

Business & Communications

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Research & Copy

FASHIONABLE POLITICAL FIGURES For First Lady Michelle Obama and Kate Middleton, style serves as inspiration for women of all ages.

Dana Rose Falcone Molly Jauhar Julie Kosin Carly Wolkoff

24 TRENDING TOPIC How and why we follow trends, one step at a time.

NESTING GLAMOUR Make your hair pop with these bold hair accessories.

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Krista Johnson Public Relations Director

Amy Orgel Advertising Director

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Jillian Galello Business Manager

Zachary Weiss Associate PR Director

endings

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Michelle Menner Features Editor

Faculty Advisor Melissa Chessher

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Special Thanks: Ellie Mia Boutique, South Crouse Avenue at Marshall St. Modern Pop Culture, Armory Square Some Girls Boutique, Marshall St.

Letter from the editor This issue of Zipped returns to the basics. And by basics I mean everything from exploring one of the industry’s most lucrative inventions—the bra—to spring’s toned down palette of creamy nudes and bright whites. Initially, I wasn’t thrilled with the achromatic trend. As Syracuse residents, we spend too many months in a dreary, color-deprived landscape that features six months of a constant, white backdrop, and endless gray days. But, the main photo shoot forced me to reconsider my appreciation of subtle hues. It delivers a fresh take on beige and shows you how to sport fashion’s natural colors in “Neutral Territory,” page 16.

Speaking of beige, let’s talk bras. For women, they’re a necessity.

But this undergarment has outgrown its basic identity and transformed into a fruitful fashion statement. The industry makes millions of dollars every year by selling everything from baby pink lace lingerie to aquamarine padded wonder bras, and black-satin underwire brassieres. Check out “Bra Nation,” page 12, to find out how this basic turned into a luxury.

The back-to-basics theme continues in our guy’s photo shoot.

For men, this spring is all about pops of primary color. Saturated hues of canary yellow and cobalt blue dominate guys’ wardrobes in the warmer months. We wanted to show off these powerful colors with models as energetic as the looks. Expressive Elements, a local dance team, flip, kick, and jump across the photography studio in the vibrant apparel. Their movement brings a new life to basic colors.

Join the party with “Dance into Brights,” page 8. As we all wait for the snow to stop, the grass to green, and the porches to beckon, we can contemplate spring and our spring wardrobe within these pages.

Because now is the time to embrace your basic instincts.

>> zippedmag.com

check out our new website for a backstage look at photo shoots, daily updates, trends to follow, and student spotlights.

Front cover: On Danielle wright: Pink shorts, Ellie Mia, Kenny, $128, Coral Necklace, Some Girls, Coral and orange bracelet, Ellie Mia, $38, Blouse, Ellie Mia, Tucker, $185, Sunglasses, Urban Outfitters, $18 Styled by Hannah Slocum and LaTimberly Johnson Makeup by LaTimberly Johnson Photographed by Aaron Katchen

Illustration by Christina Riggio

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style files Designer Behind Bars

-Ivie Igbeare

people.com

Lindsay Lohan usually causes a buzz for her statement-making nail art and rehab stunts, but this time it’s her upcoming shoe line.

Her collection, 6126, coined from Marilyn Monroe’s birthday, now features footwear. The shoes are a take on old Hollywood glamour, but with a modern edge. The collection includes stilettos, flats, chunky platforms, and over-the-knee boots. Prices range from $100–$450. The shoes will be sold at specialty retailers and at 6126byLindsayLohan.com this coming fall.

Superman, Eat Your Heart Out stylebistro.com

Beauty power-brand MAC Cosmetics recently debuted its spring 2011 Wonder Woman collection, inspired by America’s favorite highspirited heroine. The collection channels its muse by featuring a color palette of the boldest and brightest reds, yellows, and blues.

True to Wonder Woman’s fiery persona, every product screams “kick-sass” girl power with brazen names like “Spitfire” lipstick and “Obey Me” nail polish. Highlights of the collection include the super-sized opulash mascaras, slick lipglass lacquers, and glitter jars for shimmering lids. The collection remains in stores until April.

Superhuman strength, speed, and stamina not included.

-Allison O'Brien

Makeover Museum Style Fashion’s biggest closet gets a makeover. In early January, philanthropists Jonathan and Lizzie Tisch donated $10 million to New York’s Costume Institute in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Part of the donation will go to a 4,200 square-foot wing, the Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch Gallery. A rotating wardrobe is on the list of installations for the new wing and an Yves Saint Laurent color block sheath is among the pieces to receive a newly remodeled home.

-Diana Pearl artinfo.com

Chez Piggy Just when Emmanuelle Alt thought it was her time to shine as editor-in-chief of French Vogue, a certain curly-haired, bodacious muppet is preparing to steal the spotlight. Miss Piggy takes on the role of fashion editor of French Vogue in the upcoming Muppets movie set to release in February 2012. Miss Piggy has dominated the fashion world for years (she's rumored to be friends with Marc Jacobs), but now she’s taking on a bigger role. Check out Miss Piggy’s performance for yourself early next year and try to tell us she’s not making it all about moi.

- Lauren Stefaniak

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stylelist.com

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thefashionspot.com

FedEx Fashion Moda Operandi, co-founded by fashion and business gurus Aslaug Magnusdottir and Lauren Santo Domingo, is shipping fashion from the runway right to your front door. Instead of fashion-world connections, all you need is your laptop and a 50 percent deposit. Buy trends before they even hit the department store racks. The online trunk show boasts 50 designers. Talents include Vera Wang, Thakoon, Carolina Herrera, and Prabal Gurung. Moda Operandi is no friend to patience. Luxury-hungry fashionistas need only wait 48 hours before ordering hot-off-therunway looks.

- Sarah Schmalbruch

instyle.com

On Target with Calypso With the help of Target’s designer collaborations, students can build up their closets this spring without breaking the bank. On May 1, Calypso St. Barth, a line known for its lively, bohemian beachwear, launches an exclusive line for Target’s fashion-forward, yet frugal shoppers. The line includes clothing, accessories, and home décor. Echoing Target’s successful team-up with Liberty of London, Calypso St. Barth’s line matches the aesthetics of its fresh, upscale counterpart.

Prices range from $1.99–$79.99 -Amanda Michelson

independent.co.uk

Inked on the Runway Long gone is the clean, sunkissed look of male models—well at least for some designers. Nicola Formichetti, stylist of Lady Gaga and the new creative director for designer Thierry Mugler, discovered Rick Genest and dubbed him the brand’s newest icon.

Genest’s body is laden with tattoos, resembling a human skeleton.

His ink-clad body opened the brand’s menswear show during Paris Fashion Week. Now there’s a look you can’t erase.

- Shanelle Drakeford

Green your Wardrobe

fashionista.com

Stay on trend and go green this Earth Day (April 22) with these fashionable finds. If you’re an Emma Watson fan, or just a fan of floral, check out the latest People Tree collection designed by the actress. Eye-catching pieces include ikat-striped rompers and draped dresses. For another earth-friendly find, try Butter London’s eco-friendly nail polish. The label cut out toxic ingredients like formaldehyde from their laquer. Polish up with “No More Waity, Katie,” a greige shade with a hint of lilac glitter, inspired by Kate Middleton.

- Jeanine Guzman

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zipcode

Head band in the game Lauren Kessler’s headband designs garner national attention on the pages of a glossy teen magazine and ABC’s website. But this fashion entrepreneur is only a junior at Syracuse University.

By Lindsey Mather 6

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ost college fashion design students don’t have the chance to say Seventeen magazine featured their creations in a photo shoot.

Most entrepreneurs slave over extensive business models and competitive analyses.

Lauren Kessler is different.

Kessler launched Lauren Nicole Accents, her online headpiece store, in summer 2009. The entrepreneur started the brand with zero business expertise and only one year of college under her belt. But a lack of textbook knowledge didn't keep Kessler from pursuing her headband aspirations. The 21-year-old Syracuse University junior says young entrepreneurs should dive head-first into new ventures. Kessler listened to her instincts from the get-go.

“Why wait when I have an idea and the skills to do it now?” says Kessler. “I don’t have any patience. I don’t hate anything more than wasting time.”

Kessler’s ambitious personality and determination

mixes different fabrics and beadwork. Kessler’s “Man vs. Machine” collection features jewel-adorned bands and headbands with gunmetal embellishment. “Boho Brights” includes hot pink lace fabric with black beading details, and pops of color with delicate electric yellow and cobalt blue flowers. Chain details weave their way into the taupe and cream silk bands of the “Classic” collection.

“I received negative and positive feedback on my first design, but I thought it was something new and cool,” Kessler says.

In addition to running her online store, Kessler writes a style blog, Lauren Nicole Accents, which gives fans a peek into what makes the designer tick, her personal style, news-worthy fashion topics, and company updates.

Kessler sends her pieces to celebrities in hopes of expanding her brand to Hollywood. Recipients include Tenley Molzahn, a previous contestant on the reality

Eventually I’d like to have my own empire and run it. I never want to

stop working. I get bored too quickly.

match those of an established industry maven rather than a fashion design student. Her fashion industry experience during her freshman year of college surpassed most seniors: Kessler interned at Vera Wang in high school, Oscar de la Renta in summer 2009, and Bibhu Mohapatra last summer. Surrounding herself with fashion insiders motivated Kessler. As an intern, Kessler soaked up the day-to-day activities, paid attention to how a fashion company was run, and learned the process of producing fashion lines—most importantly she observed how to sell those lines.

Thanks to her internship experience, Kessler’s line took shape on the web, where she shows her passion for both great style and the creative process.

Today, shoppers can choose one-of-a-kind, handsewn headpieces from her website. Each headpiece

television show The Bachelor, and the Kardashian sisters of Keeping Up with the Kardashians.

Her twin sister and headpiece model, Carly Kessler, never doubted that her sister would succeed. “[Lauren] definitely has the talent and determination to do whatever she puts her mind to,” says Carly. “She never lets anybody get to her, and certainly no one can stand in her way.”

The ideas don’t end for Kessler. She keeps a notepad and pen on hand at all times, even in the wee hours of the night. “I sleep with a sketchbook next to my bed because I wake up in the middle of the night with ideas.”

Kessler dreams of growing her company beyond her headpiece creations and venturing into clothing design.

“Eventually I’d like to have my own empire and run it. I never want to stop working. I get bored too quickly.”

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into

a c d n e brights

On Luther: yellow cardigan, Lacoste, Modern Pop Culture, $35, t-shirt Modern Pop Culture $10, jeans and hat, model’s own

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Expressive elements dance team, based out of syracuse university, shows you how to transition to warmer weather with neon basics.

Styled by Mohammad Diallo Photographed by Danielle Carrick

On Troy: yellow cords, Rugby Ralph Lauren, $59, red striped polo, Grand Slam, Modern Pop Culture, $20, leather jacket, Cooper, Modern Pop Culture $68, shoes, Jeremy Scott Adidas, stylist’s own, hat and glasses, model’s own

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On Chris: red cardigan, Lacoste, Modern Pop Culture, $35, yellow and blue polo, Chesterfield, Modern Pop Culture, $20, navy cords, Rugby Ralph Lauren, shoes, stylist’s own

On Afonso: leather jacket, Berman’s, Modern Pop Culture, $70, t-shirt, Modern Pop Culture, $14, red shirt, Rockmount, Modern Pop Culture, $24, hat, Modern Pop Culture, $25, pants and shoes, model’s own

B R A N at i o n

By Nina Elias, Photographed by Mitchell Franz

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Even in this economy, the $11 billion lingerie industry continues to dictate sales, sex appeal, and a cult affection for bras. Here’s a look at how the bra went from a basic necessity to a full-on fashion explosion—and how you’re buying into it.

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eah Rocketto operates on autopilot all morning. The Syracuse University senior wakes up, eats breakfast, goes to the gym. She takes a shower and checks Facebook. After that, she’s ready to make her first decision of the day: what to wear under her clothes.

Rocketto approaches her old, wooden dresser, and struggles with the top left drawer, the one that shelters a bra collection so extensive it spans two drawers and maxes out at just over 30 bras. “That one’s just for sports bras,” she says as she points to an entire drawer of spandex.

The drawer skids open and a sea of skinny straps rebel against their tight quarters. The digging begins—pink with bows, pink and purple, black with pink bows, grey with pink lace, white lace, black lace.

“I guess I get a lot of pink bras. They all have pink bows,” she pauses. “And lace.” She pulls a bright pink bra with leopard trim out of the drawer by its strap. “It’s got lace and leopard.

You can’t go wrong with that.”

Many share Rocketto's bra obsession.

The intimate apparel industry is an $11 billion market that thrives on women’s interest in what’s beneath the surface.

(And we’re not talking about personality— we’re talking about lace padding, more colors than a kaleidoscope, and lift-andseparate technology.)

But the bra started its life as an unmentionable bare necessity of any woman’s wardrobe. With color options limited to white and ivory, the bra was the least exciting part of a woman’s day. Now, almost 100 years after its debut, the bra is a definitive member of both pop culture and the fashion industry.

Mass-market intimate-apparel retailers like Victoria’s Secret helped elevate the bra from forgotten undergarment to famous fashion statement. Just like the clothes we wear on the outside, bras reflect high-end runway trends and hold the financial clout to sway spending trends. Somewhere along the line, the bra became a necessity and a luxury, collected and coveted like a second wardrobe.

It all started in the early 1900s when Mary Phelps Jacob was fed up with clunky corsets and whale bones digging into her back. Faced with the challenge of hiding a corset under her slinky evening gown, 14

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Jacob put silk and ribbon together to make the first brassier, from the French word for “arm.” The backless separator earned itself a patent in 1914, marking the first bra in United States history. Women working in factories and hospitals during WWI loved the undergarment’s practicality and Jacob’s design soon spread beyond the workforce.

In 1949, Maidenform launched ads touting the emotional connection between women and their bras. Then came the ’50s pinup culture and Marilyn Monroe’s famous half-bullet bra. From there, it was a straight sweep to stardom.

With a stamp of empowerment and plenty of sex appeal, underwear is outerwear and women are buying up all the empowerment they can find. Today, Limited Brands, Inc., the company responsible for lingerie powerhouse, Victoria’s Secret, dominates the intimate apparel industry. The brand boasts over $5 billion in sales.

Victoria’s Secret and Victoria’s Secret PINK dictate the lingerie purchases of women ages 15–39. Between color choices, convertible options, push-up, and minimizing, the bra is now its own form of expression.

It’s no mistake women are empowered by their own sexiness. The very nature of Victoria’s Secret’s brand is built upon the heart-racing idea of hidden pleasures.

Lingerie’s appeal thrives upon an indulgence that women are holding close to their hearts and high on their list of priorities, and it’s for no one else but themselves, says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD market research group in an interview for The Columbus Dispatch. “Victoria’s greatest secret of all is women shopping for themselves,” Cohen says, “Women will make sacrifices in personal purchases.” Though feminist theorists target men for putting pressure on women to own a sexy gamut of undergarments, in 2011 lingerie isn’t just for men. A woman’s lingerie collection is now like a second wardrobe—it has variety, follows trends, and still serves its function as the ultimate support.

With more than 12 collections, Victoria’s Secret’s emphasis on variety is part of what makes the bras—and everything else—sell themselves. “Every bra has at least seven

pairs of underwear to match,” says Lisa Bondi, former sales associate at Victoria’s Secret in Princeton, NJ. “When everything matches, it makes the secondary sale so easy.”

With so much variety, the very nature of intimate apparel moves away from actual intimacy. Because of bra options that span the rainbow and in-your-face marketing strategies like employing release dates with as much hype as a movie premiere, bras are more in the spotlight than some clothing options. The specific variety of a woman’s lingerie wardrobe, defined by cute and girly prints reminiscent of what they might doodle in notebooks, is not only a reflection of her style, but also a reflection of herself. “We want our line to be emotional and personal to each girl who wears it,” says Sarah Renert, a computer aided designer for Victoria's Secret PINK. At Victoria’s Secret, bras come in two types of colors, according to Bondi—neutrals and fashion colors. Each line has its own unique color specifications based on the target audience and the purpose of the bra. The Very Sexy bra comes in neutrals (any variety of black and black lace) and deeper colors like red and dark green. Never brights, and never muted colors, Bondi says. The muted colors appear only in the Angels line. Known for its comfort and lace detail, the Angels line comes in light blue, light pink, soft yellow, and, of course, neutrals. It's likely that Jacob never imagined her corset alternative would morph into such an option-based empire.

Whether picking out a bra in the morning is a fun and conscious decision or a sleepyeyed ritual, the bra has made its way into our wardrobes and our hearts. And whether a woman buys a bra for herself or her boyfriend, what's important is that she keeps spending a little extra on herself.

Rocketto still hasn’t made her final choice. She pulls out bra after bra, one after the other. She’s under the weather today, so for Rocketto, like many women, this choice will make or break her spirits. She dives into her drawer of delicates one last time and pulls out a classic—a white bra with lacey straps and a tiny bow in the center.

She turns around and proudly holds it up to her body. “I don’t have to look sick just because I feel sick,” she says, examining her choice. “This bra makes me feel sexy no matter when I wear it. Even if I do have a fever and a cough.”

The Do’s and dont's OF BRAS Victoria’s Secret Bra Specialist Diane Rumbold weighs in on how to get the perfect fit underneath it all.

DO get measured every six months– one year. Frequent fittings ensure your bra fits your body the way it is now— not the way it was two years ago.

DO know your sister sizes. Go up a band size and down a cup size, or up a cup size and down a band size. A 36C is a 38B is a 34D. DON’T hook your bra on the tightest clasp. Stretching your bra to its limits will not support you for very long.

Wear your bra on the loosest hook— you'll extend the life of your bra with the freedom to adjust as you grow and shrink later on.

DO replace your bra if it’s ripped or stretched out. Burn it, throw it out, save it for sentimental reasons—just DON’T wear it.

DON’T wear your bra two days in a row. Double the life of your bra (really!) by alternating every other day. That day off rejuvinates the elastic and gives you optimum support.

DO take the time to hand wash your delicates. Fill a sink with cool water and add a small amount of gentle laundry soap. Place bras in water and let them soak for 20–30 minutes.

Drain, rinse, and lie flat to dry.

DON’T put bras in the dryer. Ever.

Even on a delicate cycle. The heat damages the elastic while the harsh twisting and throwing will leave your cups and underwire misshapen and unsupportive.

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Neutral Territory Utilitarian-chic shows its softer side with spring’s white and nude color palette.

Makeup by Sheri Berhirdo Styled by Hannah Slocum and LaTimberly Johnson Photographed by Danielle Carrick

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On Jess: knit top, designed

by Grace O’Meara, fashion design student, high waist trouser, Boom Babies, $1

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See following page for clothing and fashion credits.

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On Mikela (left): white skirt, Modern Pop Culture, $18, knit tunic, Modern Pop Culture, $38 On Jess (middle): Socks, American Apparel, $13, underwear, VPL white blouse, Parker, Ellie Mia, $185, necklace, Forever 21, stylist's own On Grace (right): cream racerback tank, RaMona LaRue, Ellie Mia, $119, nude striped skirt, Modern Pop Culture, $32, shoes, Nine West, $79

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On Mikela: lace short, Modern Pop Culture, $28, knit bra, designed by Grace O’Meara, fashion design student, jacket, Members Only, Modern Pop Culture, $32

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fashion Conscience

Dressing

Their Part

Drawing from The Styles of Women in Politcs

By Victoria Napoli

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Illustrations by Larissa Callahan

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he deep sapphire Issa dress Kate Middleton wore to announce her engagement sold out within hours in London. Michelle Obama's white, flower-detailed, oneshoulder Jason Wu gown grabbed the attention of millions during President Obama’s Inaugural ball, and is now in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History.

First Lady Michelle Obama and soon-to-bewed Kate Middleton are political figures under an intense gaze from the fashion community.

Both grace the pages of magazines and appear on television wearing form-fitting dresses and youthful colored prints.

Past political trendsetters, like Jackie Kennedy Onassis, popularized wide-brimmed hats, trench coats, and Hermès headscarves during the ’60s and ’70s, and Princess Diana defined elegance in the ’80s and ’90s with lavish ball gowns and high-necked, ruffled blouses. Today, Obama and Middleton continue to set trends each time the

paparazzi catch them wearing anything Recently, designers, television from J. Crew to Topshop, and even Narciso personalities, and authors chastised Obama Rodriguez. for choosing not to wear a dress by an The female political leaders of today American designer to the China state dinner represent a fresh and accessible style at the White House. The criticism was compared to political figures of the past, harsh. Television personality Joan Rivers says professor Kristi Anderson, who told the Huffington Post Obama’s choice was specializes in women and politics in the ill-advised. Diane von Furstenberg also Maxwell School of Citizenship and Public disagreed with the choice and expressed Affairs at Syracuse University. The halls disappointment to Women’s of congress have a fashionable future as Wear Daily. younger women increasingly play critical Iconic status proves roles in politics, Anderson explains. difficult to live up to for On February 9, the First Lady appeared Middleton and Obama. on the Today Show, wearing a feminine, The public expects polka-dot dress cinched at the waist with a these women to dress red-orange belt. the part while For both women, walking a thin On her feet were bright yellow between striking the perfect line heels. The dress, a making a design by Swedish balance between statement company H&M, and paired with higher- spotlight and real making end accessories waves. life is key. represents Obama’s Because signature style of mixing high-end and women in our low-end brands. Obama’s practical society feel so wardrobe makes her relatable to the average close to these American woman, which captures the figures, we hold essence of her stylish appeal. them to higher Obama’s style resonates with Hollis standards, Daniels, a junior fashion design major at explains Robin SU, who praises the icon for her ability Givhan, Pulitzer to relate to American women across Prize winning generations, ethnicities, and social classes cultural critic, through her personal style. in a Washington Across the pond, Kate Middleton, Post article daughter of middle-class parents and titled, “You Gotta soon-to-be Princess of Wales, wears more Love the First egalitarian and contemporary attire, pairing Lady. No, Really, street brands like British retailer Topshop, You Have No Choice.” with pieces from higher-end designers like Regardless of Dior. For both women, striking the perfect these criticisms, balance between spotlight and real life is many people are key. But their sought-after and talked about inspired by Obama styles beckon an ethical question: does and Middleton’s their fashion presence interfere with their style choices. more prominent role as political figures?

Whether they’re in “There are certainly people who have the tabloids or on the criticized female politicians for trying to be pages of magazines fashion icons,” Andersen says. In the past for their fashion hits, few months, this question has been frontit’s clear that these and-center for Obama. Some worry that her two powerful women political causes won't be taken seriously won’t be abandoning if the public pays more attention to her their signature looks wardrobe choices than her activism. anytime soon.

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Behind The Seams Zipped found out how trends evolve from the drawing board to department store racks.

By Rachel Tipovski

With each season a crop of must-have looks arrives.

Hand-picked trends from Bloomingdales to boutiques look effortless, but it’s not so simple behind the scenes.

Find out what's involved in the making of a trend.

The Source of Inspiration

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From the mirrored vase in Home Goods to the whimsical silhouettes in Alice and Wonderland, and the retro, push-up bikinis at Urban Outfitters, fashion finds its way into all facets of retail and culture. Designers research aspects of culture, while simultaneously hunting for new inspiration, says Amanda Nicholson, retail management professor in the Whitman School of Management at Syracuse University. Here's how they work in synch: color predictions start two years before the season. Right now, for example, designers are looking at color palettes for 2013, Nicholson explains. Designers then interpret those colors and fabrics for their collections. Another influence lies in street-wear. Street garb reflects influential cultural, social, economic, and political issues, Nicholson says. The baggy jean is one example of a trend derived from street-wear.

Cool Hunters

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Fashion companies—large and small—find friends in trend forecasters. Cool hunting, an activity born in the ’90s, involves trend forecasters monitoring fashion fads and retail crazes.

Future Concept Lab launched the “Street Signals” research program in 1994, which sent correspondents to Milan, London, Paris, New York, and Tokyo. The company recognizes emerging trends across the world. Correspondents photograph, observe, and videotape trends they witness, according to Trends Gymnasium, a course organized by Future Concept Lab. Malcom Gladwell also conducted extensive research about cool hunting and explored the term “cool hunters” in a 1997 New Yorker article, “The Coolhunt.” He expands on the idea of trend forecasters in his book, Tipping Point. Gladwell explains how companies pay “cool hunters” large chunks of money to find up-and-coming trends. When forecasters discover trends, companies recreate products in-line with the current standards of cool. Wal-Mart sells the same trends as Nordstrom’s, but at a drastically different material, quality, and price.

Buyer Perspectives

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Trend forecasters pick out the styles, but who is responsible for making them popular?

Fashion trends move from the top-down or bottom-up, according to Laurel Morton, fashion design professor in the School of Visual and Performing Arts at SU. “We are living in a culture now where style mavens are placing looks very selectively and strategically on live mannequins,” Morton says. Sophia Dimanidis, owner of Ellie Mia boutique on South Crouse Avenue, buys clothes for her Syracuse shop months in advance. Her biggest challenge—predicting the trends celebrities will make popular. When fashion magazines feature clothing also sold at Ellie Mia, the pieces fly off her shelves.

The Psychology Behind a Trend

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Why we choose to follow trends is a different story. The answer lies in something called “social proof.” Psychologist Robert Cialdini, Ph.D., and author of Influence: The Psychology of Persuasion developed the idea of “social proof,” which states if others are doing it, then it must be good. “We have a tendency to look at what other people are doing to determine what is okay to do,” says Leonard Newman, associate psychology professor at SU. Put simply, fashion imitates life.

Orange and

Blue Ribbon

Zipped teamed up with the Syracuse University Bookstore to hold the first ever Gear Design Competition. With the help of Chancellor Nancy Cantor and basketball guard Scoop Jardine, Zipped picked a favorite. The winner’s designs will be produced and sold in the bookstore within the next few weeks.

By Meredith Popolo What made you want to enter the contest?

I designed the senior sweats for my high school and it’s sort of a hobby for me.

Photographed by Megan Carberry

Name: Alicia Zyburt Year: Freshman Major: Illustration Hometown: Addison, Illinois

Can you describe the sweats you designed?

The sweatshirt is navy blue, and it says CUSE diagonally down the front in orange and then HOUSE across it in white. It has an aggressive, angry Otto on it. The sweatpants are black and have a little orange icon on the right hip. They say ORANGE down the left leg in orange and blue letters.

How would you describe your personal style?

It’s definitely a mix. I love wearing Converse sneakers and my boots as much as I like wearing high heels.

I try to dress relatively casually around campus.

Would you wear sweats to class?

Rarely. There was one day the other week when I was like, “Ughh.” I like to exude how I feel through my clothes, but I know I look tired when I wear sweatpants. I’d wear my designs though, of course.

Who is your favorite designer?

I don’t keep up regularly with fashion, but I’d have to say Alexander McQueen. He’s the only design house I identify with and follow regularly.

How does it feel to know that your design will be on sale in the bookstore?

It’s really cool. Now I can point to something and say that it’s mine. It’s going to be weird, but I’m really excited for everyone to see my hand in the bookstore.

How do you think you’ll feel when you see someone actually walking around in your design?

That will be surreal. It’s different from seeing it in the bookstore because it means that people are responding to it. They like it and are actually buying it.

What are your plans for the future?

Any more clothing design?

I would love to take illustration to the record industry and do cover design and label art.

Are you a big sports fan?

I support the Orange, but I don’t have season tickets and I get most of my sports updates from guys on my floor. They make sure I know whether we won or lost. But no, I’m not a regular patron of the Carrier Dome.

What did your parents say when you told them you won?

They didn’t even know I entered the contest. I just emailed them and told them I won a design contest, and they wrote back, “What design contest?” They had no idea. But when I explained it to them, they were really excited and proud.

They want me to bring the sweats home.

Maybe they’ll hang it on the fridge?

[Laughs] Yeah, maybe.

spring 2011 • zipped

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Nesting

Glamour

Escape your cold-weather hair and adorn your locks with eye-catching clips.

Styled by Hannah Slocum and LaTimberly Johnson Photographed by Aaron Katchen

On Agata: turquoise feather hair clip, Ellie Mia, $10, pink flower, Forever 21, $2, bow hair clip, Ellie Mia, $25

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zipped • spring 2011

spring 2011 • zipped

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zipped • spring 2011