Zipped Fall 2011 by Angela Laurello

ZIPPED FALL 2011 your student fee

FALL 2011 ISSUE 8 |ZIPPED MAGAZINE

ZIPPED EDITORIAL Christina Decker Editor-In-Chief

Ashley Collman Managing Editor

Emilia Wojdylak Creative Director

Liz Gravier Features Editor

briefs

4 ZIPPED PICKS Check out our essentials for making a holiday night out truly spectacular.

THE NEW WAVE With fashion bloggers front and center at New York Fashion Week, should magazine editors be worried about their jobs?

GUYS UNZIPPED Modern men go back to basics with accessories that lend an air of sophistication to otherwise simple ensembles.

PERFORMANCE ART Lady Gaga and Nicki Minaj prove that making it big as a pop star these days requires a clever use of fashion.

FRIGID FORECAST Layer up with chic knits and cozy boots to brave the cold this winter season.

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EXCLUDED FROM THE FUN Plus-size women struggle to find their place in a fashion industry with unrealistic ideals.

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Associate Features Editor

Danielle Emig Research Editor

Dana Rose Falcone Staff Fact-Checker

PHOTO & DESIGN Angela Laurello Art Director

features

Rachel Tipovski

RED HOT Turn to fiery red lips to cure winter boredom

Carly Piersol Photo Director

Sarah Kinslow Associate Photo Director

BUSINESS & COMMUNICATIONS Elise Balaban Publisher

Cassandra David Marketing Director

Amy Orgel Advertising Director

Krista Johnson Public Relations Director

Zach Weiss Associate Public Relations Director

Kalyn Conley Assistant Public Relations Director

Lindsay Cameron Sarah Schmalbruch Social Media Representatives

FACULTY ADVISOR Melissa Chessher SPECIAL THANKS: Ellie Mia Boutique, South Crouse Avenue at Marshall St. Modern Pop Culture, Armory Square Some Girls Boutique, Marshall St. Cluttered Closet, Westcott St.

{LETTER} from the editor

The change of seasons is upon us, a time of year when we wrap up in scarves and snuggle into sweaters, hunkering down in anticipation of the long, cold months ahead. As we prepped in mid-September for our “Winter Is Coming,” shoot the crisp feel of the air and grey skies overhead that epitomize autumn had us inspired. But wouldn’t you know, the day of our shoot we awoke to 90˚ heat and relentless sun. Determined to make it work, we trekked out to the quarry on South Campus, armed with plenty of water and multiple compacts of translucent powder for blotting. Our models toughed it out in knits and boots, trying their hardest to appear chilly and somber while sweating profusely. Thanks to camera filters and Photoshop, you would never know. Take a peek at the illusion on page 14. Here at Zipped we’ve learned that adapting to change, no matter how sudden or unwelcome, means moving forward and staying ahead. With the emergence of new media and digital platforms, the terrain of the industry is changing. The leading experts at glossy fashion magazines are feeling the

push from up-and-comers of the blogosphere in “Rise of the Blog,” page 6. To stay ahead of the curve, this semester Zipped launched a new blog where, for the first time, we unveil our magazine digitally in addition to print. Check it out at zippedmag.wordpress.com. But that’s not the only thing that’s changing. On a roll with the whole “out with the old, in with the new” motto, we decided to ditch “Style Files” and give you what we like to call our “Zipped Picks,” page 4, primping essentials just in time for the upcoming holiday party season. Like the plus-size women ignored by the leaders of the fashion industry in our story on the exclusive body of the business, “Fashion’s Curveball,” page 20, we understand that sometimes taking matters into your own hands and inciting the change is necessary to reap the best outcome. New realities can be challenging, but we hope you’ll agree that doing things differently invigorates life and fashion. Enjoy!

THE OUT-TAKES:

Christina

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RED & NUDE LIPSTICK Forget the sticky lip-gloss of your childhood, stick to red or nude lipstick for a classic yet bold lip. If you go the red route, keep the rest of your look minimal and let your lips steal the show. A nude lip, on the other hand, allows you to be more daring so go for a smoky eye, hint of bronzer, and swipe of pink blush.

METALLIC POLISH Dress your nails in Chanel’s new Peridot polish and your tips are sure to be a conversation piece all night long. The green-gold color is subtle, but with a hint of shimmer you won’t be able to stop staring. We think $22 a bottle is worth it for this stunner, but to find a cheaper alternative look for an iridescent color with a metallic finish. - Emma McAnaw

Tarina Tarantino Conditioning Lip Sheen lipstick in "leatherette" & Make Up Forever Rouge Artist Intense Lipstick in "42- Satin Vermillon Red"

TANNING TOWELETTES No longer must you envy the girl with a golden glow in the dead of winter. To get that gorgeous summery tan, try Somerville360° Tanning Towelettes. Quick and easy to use, these tanning towelettes create the illusion of sun-kissed skin in just two to four hours, perfect for last minute primping. Make sure to exfoliate dry winter skin before applying to prevent streaking.

- Christina Ferraro

SETTING SPRAY Don’t let dulling or running makeup stop you from partying well into the wee hours of the morning. With a few spritzes of Urban Decay’s All Nighter LongLasting Makeup Setting Spray right after you finish applying your makeup, we guarantee your look will hold up through wind, rain, snow, and sweat. No need for touch ups, so leave your compact at home.

FESTIVE CLUTCH Holiday parties are the one time of the year you can be shamelessly sparkly. So don’t hold back when it comes to a clutch. Pick something fun and glittery like the Kate Spade Gia Sparkler and let out your inner 3rd grader. Choose small, with just enough room for your ID, some cash, and a lipstick. - Megan Murphy

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FAUX FUR Thanks to faux fur, there’s a more fashionable way to bundle up this winter season. Whether you prefer a long coat or chic vest, furry picks like this scarf from The Limited offer a warmth that’s both comfortable and classy. At $45, luxury doesn’t have to come with a hefty price tag. Throw it on en route to a party and you’ll be ready to brace the cold in style. - Leah Zukowsky

- Riyana Straetker

Drape your ears with a dazzling pair of chandelier earrings to add a punch of glitz to even the most basic party outfit. Choose a pair with jeweled embellishments for a touch of color and sparkle, but make sure they’re lightweight so they won’t be tugging on your earlobes all night. They say beauty is pain, but with the right pair you won’t have to suffer! Kate Spade Chandelier Earrings - Megan French

- Leigh Miller

CHANDELIER EARRINGS

TINTED MOISTURIZER Nailing the perfect party look is all about getting dolled up without looking overdone, but it can be tough to achieve that balance when you’re battling dull, dry skin. Look for a foundation that both moisturizes and adds lightweight coverage without caking, like Laura Mercier Tinted Illuminating Moisturizer. With a hint of shimmer it gives skin a dewy healthy glow even in the dead of winter.

- Casey Fabris

PHOTOGRAPHED BY SARAH KINSLOW STYLED BY ANGELA LAURELLO AND CHRISTINA DECKER

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NEW PERSPECTIVE

he blog “Cheetah is the New Black,” was born out of boredom when Alicia Lund was working as an executive assistant at a venture capital firm in late 2009. Simply a fun outlet for her fashion obsession, there was no rhyme or reason to the posts. Fast-forward two years later and Lund has turned this creative distraction into a part-time job. When she got serious about blogging last year, Lund began posting restaurant reviews, personal style photos, and documenting flea market trips and outings with girlfriends. With this newfound focus came more and more visitors— currently amounting to around 4,000 a day. Pretty soon a number of opportunities began to crop up. Lund became a member of Lucky magazine’s Style Collective, a group of bloggers who contribute to Lucky’s online and print platforms. She recently helped fellow blogger Taylor Sterling, of “Sterling Style,” launch an online fashion, beauty, and lifestyle magazine, Glitter Guide, where Lund now works as a writer and editor. As the popularity of fashion blogs exploded, bloggers began branding themselves across all platforms through book deals, collaborations with designers, and trademarks. Many successful bloggers have even hired publicists and began charging for advertising, product placement, and for services like styling. Leandra Medine of “The Man Repeller” is one of these bloggers. Medine founded her blog in April 2010. She defines a “man repeller” as someone who dresses in a sartorially offensive way that will result in repelling members of the opposite sex. Her styling of strategic layers and unique accessories eventually sent the internet into a frenzy and her blog evolved into a handbook for women looking to dress for themselves, rather than their significant others. Since she began “The Man Repeller,” Medine has partnered with brands like Leyendecker and online stores such as My Theresa to host giveaways for her online visitors. She has styled shop windows for designers such as Tibi and Mackage, collaborated with jewelry designer Dannijo on a collection of menswear-inspired jewelry, and, according to an interview on Bloomberg TV’s Surveillance Midday, has plans for a book in the near future. In a September 29, 2011, Mashable.com article, Medine reveals that she amassed over $10,000 in the previous two months, thanks to trademarks of her catchphrases and commissions received through an affiliate program. She also charges for styling and brand recognition. But these types of endorsements don’t come without ethical roadblocks. In October 2009, the Federal Trade Commission passed a law requiring bloggers to clearly state when they’re being compensated. Many bloggers now plainly disclose “gifted” items in their posts and include their sponsor policies on their websites.

Lund agrees with this practice. She says that she only accepts items she loves and would buy for herself. She believes that bloggers deserve to get something in return for all of their hard work and dedication. Aileen Gallagher, assistant professor of magazine journalism at Syracuse University, believes that receiving gifts is fine as long as bloggers are forthcoming. It’s no wonder that brands are willing to fork over so much money for blog mentions. These sites receive tens of thousands of page views per day. According to statshow.com, “The Man Repeller” receives around 22,000 page views per day. Emily Schuman, of “Cupcakes and Cashmere,” receives approximately 29,000 page views every day. But not everyone is thrilled with this sudden surge in the popularity of bloggers. In January 2011, Franca Sozzani, editor-in-chief of Italian Vogue, took to her own blog on the magazine’s website to discredit these “anonymous” bloggers, describing them as “moths” who “live only one night.” She continues, “It’s a trend… it gets blown up out of proportion.” According to her post, Sozzani believes these bloggers aren’t valid because they lack actual experience in fashion. But Gallagher disagrees. As an example, she uses Tavi Gevinson, author of “The Style Rookie,” who began her blog in March 2008 at the age of 11. Within months of Tavi’s first post, the fashion industry began to take notice and she became a front row staple at New York Fashion Week, to the shock of many fashion editors. Gallagher attributes Tavi’s credibility to the quality of her work. Because her voice was unique and she had a strong viewpoint, Gallagher says, her blog became popular despite her age. Gallagher doesn’t believe any formal training is necessary in order to make a statement in the fashion industry. “Some people know what they’re talking about because they’re wellinformed, they do a lot of research and they keep up with things…you have to have an eye,” Gallagher says. “Some people have it and some people don’t.” Perhaps Sozzani, who utilizes print, an old medium, feels threatened by Tavi and her peers, who are taking advantage of the digital platform to get across their views and opinions. Blogging is a threat to print because it can do what magazines do for a mere fraction of the cost, says Samantha Lim, editor-in-chief of Fashionindie.com. Yet, blogs are also helpful to magazines, Lim says. “They can help get the magazine’s message, content, and images out to a world of people that they may have never reached otherwise.” Gallagher thinks blogging is great for magazines because it promotes fashion editorial, which she says is especially popular with the media blitz that surrounds Fashion Week. Blogs allow everyone to comment because everyone has an opinion on clothes. For Lund, bloggers are credible because they’re real people. “It’s a great way to see how real girls are wearing the clothes... It’s inspiring to see what they’ve done and how you can put your personal twist on it.”

"BLOGGING IS A THREAT TO PRINT BECAUSE IT CAN DO WHAT MAGAZINES DO FOR A MERE FRACTION OF THE COST"

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MODERN Gentleman FOR A NIGHT OUT ON THE TOWN, TRUST IN OLD-SCHOOL ACCESSORIES TO DAPPER UP THE SIMPLEST CLASSICS STYLED BY LILIAN CHAN AND MOHAMMAD DIALLO PHOTOGRAPHED BY CARLY PIERSOL

On Chris Shirt, Cluttered Closet; hat, Cluttered Closet ;belt, khakis and shoes, model's own

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On Dean Shirt, Cluttered Closet; blazer, Cluttered Closet; pants and shoes, model's own On Nate shirt, Modern Pop Culture; jacket, Cluttered Closet; pants, model's own; suspenders, Cluttered Closet; shoes, model's own

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STYLE STRATEGY

WORK WHAT

YOU'VE GOT POP STARS ARE USING MORE THAN JUST THEIR SINGING CHOPS TO MAKE THEIR MARK IN THE INDUSTRY

BY: BRITTANY LEITNER ILLUSTRATIONS BY JANINE DOHERTY

n the front row of Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta’s spring 2012 fashion shows sat Vogue magazine’s Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour in an orange mosaic-print dress and her signature dark sunglasses. Her only accessories included a small gold watch and strings of diamond necklaces. Sitting right beside her was Young Money rapper Nicki Minaj, donning a platinum blonde beehive wig, tunic top made out of rainbow colored craft puff balls, and an orange pleated cheer skirt. If that wasn’t enough, she accessorized with neon green fishnet leggings worn over neon pink tights. We’re still trying to figure out if her black and orange wedge heels matched the outfit. Juxtaposed next to the fashion world’s largest icon, Minaj’s outrageous ensemble led many to believe that Wintour was against such a set-up, but the New York Daily News reported that the seemingly faux-pas seating arrangement was no accident. Minaj was personally invited by Wintour to share the front row.

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Minaj landing herself a seat next to Wintour at New York Fashion Week only means one thing: Minaj’s crazy wardrobe choices are working in her favor. Celebrities like Minaj donning this outrageous clothing is nothing new, but using fashion as a means of branding yourself as a marketing tool has completely entranced Hollywood. “For female pop stars, their bodies are their core assets—more important than their musicality or anything else,” says Kristin Lieb, assistant professor in the marketing communication department at Emerson College. Lieb’s dissertation, titled “Pop Tarts and Body Parts: An Exploration of the Imaging and Brand Management of Female Popular Music Stars,” breaks down the role of a female star in the music industry. “What you put on your body is exceedingly important,” Lieb says. “It enables people to take pictures of you. These pictures may lead to celebrity endorsements.” Celebrity endorsements are what branding power is all about. Partnerships with clothing companies, perfumes, makeup products, etc. are what keep people

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talking about artists in between their tours and their CD releases, says Lieb. efore Lady Gaga was the “MotherMonster-Mecca” she is today, she was Stefani Germanotta, a singer who was talented enough to land a record deal with Def Jam in September 2006, under the supervision of music industry icon, L.A. Reid. Gaga’s relationship with Reid was, however, short-lived when Reid dropped the “Bad Romance” star from the label after only three months. In an interview with Access Hollywood, Reid explains simply, “I was having a bad day.” A bad day that resulted in “the worst thing I’ve ever done.” The worst thing he’s ever done because Gaga went on to make her own name, donning the Kermit the frog cape on a German television show, covering herself in blood during the 2009 MTV Video Music Awards in a performance depicting the death of Princess Diana, and showing up to the 2010 VMA’s in a dress designed entirely out of meat. Dropped from Def Jam “presumably for a lack of marketability,” says Lieb, Gaga “decided fashion was the way to get the attention she needed and deserved as an artist.

“Think of Audrey Hepburn versus Marilyn Monroe,” Nicholson says. “Both [were] celebrities during a similar timeframe, [yet showcased] their identities in completely different ways in terms of fashion choices and building two distinct personal ‘brands.’” Hepburn was most noted for her refined, sleek style, and simple addition of pearls, whereas Monroe is most remembered in her flowy white halter dress, posing over an air vent. The branding process is especially different for males. Sharply-dressed celebs like Justin Timberlake, Kanye West, and P.Diddy have turned themselves into brands via clothing lines, fragrances, and even liquor labels. Yet they have never worn anything as outrageous as their female counterparts. In a conversation Lieb had with a photographer who shoots CD covers, she discovered that portrait shots are most often used for males whereas females are almost always shot in full body range. “To me, this is kind of sad in what it suggests sociologically,” Lieb says. “Fashion is essential for female artists and nonessential for male artists.” There are some male artists who have tried to raise their stone-set fashion bar. Elton John has famously been wearing pink-tinted glasses, bedazzled jumpsuits, and foot-long feathers since the 1970s. Cee Lo Green,

"FOR FEMALE POP STARS, THEIR BODIES ARE THEIR CORE ASSETS—MORE IMPORTANT THAN THEIR MUSICALITY OR ANYTHING ELSE." Without it, she simply wasn’t getting her music heard by a broad enough audience to succeed.” Although Gaga blatantly defends her extreme fashion choices as art that corresponds with her music, the 15 million albums she’s sold speak for themselves. But her and Minaj aren’t the first female celebrities using fashion to brand themselves. In as early as the late 1930s, Katherine Hepburn turned herself into a female fashion icon by wearing wide leg trousers in a time when women were seldom seen in anything other than a skirt or dress. She went on to win four Best Actress Academy Awards—more than any other actress to date. But in this day and age, especially after the cone bras and see-through lace ensembles Madonna wore in the 80s, so much has already been done: Cue the craft puff balls and Kermit dolls. Despite the huge role fashion can play in the branding process, Amanda Nicholson, professor of retail practice in the marketing department at SU, is not convinced that clothing alone has the power to turn someone into a brand.

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in an effort to pay homage to Elton John, performed in a bright red feather jumpsuit and silver chest shield, topping it all off with a jeweled cap and large feathers at the 2011 Grammy Awards. His stunt was seen as confusing at best, not to mention he was joined onstage by actress-turned-singer Gwyneth Paltrow who wore a toned-down black body suit. Cee Lo Green’s stylist, Shawn Barton, revealed to Entertainment Weekly that Green was trying to make his performance memorable, saying, “You see great artists doing spectacular things throughout the years. I remember seeing certain things, like Michael Jackson. [We thought,] why not the Grammys?” In order to stay relevant in the blogosphere and throughout the glossy pages of Us Weekly, artists must constantly be doing something different, and without a doubt, fashion is one of the easiest ways to be different. Like Minaj says in her single “Muny,” “Hey yo Anna Wintour/I’ma need that cover baby girl,” and through her sky-high beehives and neon fishnets, she’ll have the last laugh if—and when— she finally gets it.

STYLE STRATEGY

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winter is WOMENS SHOOT

coming HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SAMANTHA DAVIS STYLED BY LILIAN CHAN AND MARY WAGNER PHOTOGRAPHED BY CARLY PIERSOL

On Katie (left) Skirt, Forever 21; top, CH Classics; boots, model's own; sunglasses, H&M, $8; hat, Sportsgirl On Amanda (middle) Red dress, Modern Pop Culture, $28; leather jacket, Forever 21; boots, model's own; bangles, Topshop On Helin (right) Red cardigan,Urban Outfitters; dress, Some Girls, $59; socks, sockdreams.com, $10; boots, model's own

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[ ] WITH FRIGID TEMPS AND ICY WEATHER LOOMING, PROTECT YOURSELF WITH TEXTURED KNITS AND TOUGH BOOTS.

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STYLE FILES

WOMENS SHOOT

On Katie Skirt, Forever 21; top, CH Classics; boots, model's own; sunglasses, H&M, $8; hat, Sportsgirl

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On Helin Tan sweater, Some Girls $62; skirt, Some Girls, $46; boots, model's own

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WOMENS SHOOT

On Amanda Tan plaid skirt, $26; top, Mango; necklace, stylist's own; cape, Some Girls, $82

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On Amanda (left) Dress, Charlotte Russe; sweater, Elle Mia, $398; scarf, Macy's; boots, Hunter On Helin (middle) Tan sweater, Some Girls, $62; skirt, Some Girls, $46; boots, model's own On Katie (right) Striped sweater, Modern Pop Culture, $24; camel knee-length skirt, Modern Pop Culture, $24

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Fashion's

urveBall PLUS SIZE WOMEN STRUGGLE TO FIND FASHIONABLE CLOTHING ON THE RACKS OF THEIR FAVORITE STORES BY: KAYLA CALDWELL

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ISSUE AT HAND

herri Williams, a graduate student in Newhouse, faces fashion discrimination every time she goes shopping. “When you walk into a store, take Target for example, in the front you can immediately see the ladies’ fashion,” she says. Blouses, dresses, and more in a variety of cuts, colors, and prints line the walls to entice the shoppers. “They have a lot of cute stuff, but that’s only the ladies’ fashion,” she says. “You have to keep walking all the way to the back of the store, next to maternity to find the plus-size section. There you find the flowery, billowy, oversized shirts. That’s the plus size section for you,” Williams says. And 38-year-old Williams isn’t the only one. According to US Weekly magazine, actress Melissa McCarthy struggled finding a fashionable dress

also notes that marketing is a serious issue in the plus-size sector of the fashion industry today. “Full figured women are disillusioned with fashion magazines,” says Emme. Since fashion magazines don’t include women above a size 10 or 12, brands need to be more creative with their advertising, whether it be through flyers or social media, in order to reach these clients, she says. Williams says that even when a line does come out that is trendy and fashion-forward, most women do not necessarily hear about it in time. Women need to know that the line exists in order to buy it. Williams does, however, see the industry improving, with events such as Full Figured Fashion Week, which held its third event in New York City this past summer. The show took place June 16 to June 18 and hosted to over 15 designers,

"TO BRING THAT CHANGE TO THE MAINSTREAM, THERE NEEDS TO BE THE WIDESPREAD TRUE BELIEF THAT ALL WOMEN HAVE THE RIGHT TO LOOK FASHIONABLE." to wear to the Emmy’s this year. Professor Harriet Brown, expert on body image and author of “Brave Girl Eating,” says McCarthy’s struggle shows the stigmatization of the plus-sized body, in both the field and designing level. “If someone like Melissa McCarthy can’t find a good Emmy dress, then I mean, really, we have a problem,” says Brown. elieving designers to basically design for a hanger to display their art, Brown cites a young designer from the TV show Project Runway who complained about having to design for real women. He said that their job was to just sit still, shut up, and let him design. These designers are not necessarily designing for real women, Brown says. They do not want to taint their art by displaying it on a large body. In our society, large bodies are marked bodies, says Williams. They are stigmatized with negativity as ugly and unworthy, she says. The layout of stores also tell women that they are not welcome. “If they have me all the way in the back, what’s the point?” says Williams. For Williams, she believes it adds to the perception problem of the fashion industry, which is that the clothes may be available, but the women do not know where to look. Emme, former plus-size model and creator of the self-acceptance and self-betterment site, EmmeNation,

all of whom supported sizes 14 to 24. The main mission of the event is to eradicate the problem that so many plus-size women have, which is finding quality, fashionable clothing in their size. The industry is slowly changing. For now, some women have taken it into their own hands when they couldn’t find clothes that suited them. McCarthy took the frustration from her Emmy dress search and used it as inspiration to design a clothing line for women with similar body types. Another story of frustration motivated the creation of Monif C., a line of contemporary plus-size clothing that was awarded “Best Plus Size Designer” by Full Figured Fashion Week 2011. Williams believes the industry has been getting better in its availability of clothes for plus-size women—that is, if you know where to look. Many stores don’t suit her personal style with their large floral prints, oversized t-shirts and jeans. In order for her to stay trendy she has to split her shopping between online stores and visits to her favorite shop, Ashley Stewart, when she goes out of town. Williams’ challenge finding clothing is evidence that real change has yet to come to the fashion industry, Emme believes. “To bring that change to the mainstream, there needs to be the widespread true belief that all women have the right to look fashionable,” says Emme.

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Persimmon Pout IN A SEA OF WHITE, WARM UP THIS WINTER WITH FLAMING RED LIPS MAKEUP BY SAMANTHA DAVIS HAIR BY LORI-ANNE BRAMWELL PHOTOGRAPHED BY CARLY PIERSOL

Prep Your Pucker

Get the Look

Gently exfoliate lips with a washcloth and lightly apply lip balm before putting on lipstick

From top: NARS, Heat Wave, Sephora; Revlon, Siren, Target; Sephora Rouge, It Girl; Sephora

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