Living Magazine - August September 2021

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aug sept

2021

the senses

inside: Escape to the seaside Remarkable caves Family fun & much more

Business Directory

Find the best local companies

~ Passionate about life in south west France ~

Protect your right to live in France Apply online now for a Withdrawal Agreement Residency Permit, even if you missed the 30 June deadline.

Applies only to UK Nationals living in France before 1 January 2021 TIME IS RUNNING OUT, FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT GOV.UK/LIVINGINFRANCE

living editor’s letter | 3

A

to our August / September issue

ugust in our corner of France normally brings with it hot, sunny days but, as I write this, the long-term forecast is looking rather mixed. Like many others, we bought water butts for our garden after the earlier threats of a drought, but recent storms have kept every receptacle overflowing - perhaps they will come into their own later in the year!

With the vagaries of the weather in mind, we’ve put together a magazine full of activities and ideas that can be enjoyed whatever the forecast. Whether you find yourself sheltering from the heat or the rain, our exploration of troglodytic traditions here in France takes us to some surprising, and beautiful, sites where the skills of both ancient and modern craftsmen have created awe-inspiring structures. As it is summer, apparently, we also head towards the coast in search of the elusive sun, finding some delightful off-thebeaten-track spots along the Charente estuary for those not quite ready to mix with crowds. And if you can’t find the sun, it makes a wonderful road trip. Don’t forget to take your bucket and spade with you as we scramble among the boulders and dig in the sand, renewing our love for rockpooling, or pêche-à-pied. As many of us know, this is the perfect activity for British summers and could come into its own here this year. We also have our regular mix of family fun, delicious recipes, local news and so much more.

With vaccinations now available throughout the region, we very much hope that you are all able to have a safe and happy late summer.

And if you would like to ensure that you never miss an edition of LIVING you can subscribe over the page.

A bientôt!

editor

PS

British nationals: June was spent campaigning, successfully, for the residency application window to stay open longer.

You can now apply for residency until the end of September see francerights.org for all the necessary information.

Read online at www.livingmagazine.fr

4 | living contents

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50 28 36

38

Summer Boarders The Hays family making the most of summer beside the river

37

Puzzle Break Our unique crossword by Mike Morris

38

Nikki Legon’s Cuisine We head off on a tasty tour of holiday destinations

5

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Snippets Local news from around the region

18

Sea Breeze Roger Moss meanders along the Charente estuary, away from the crowds

24

Shore Thing Jessica Knipe discovers the simple delights of pêche-à-pied

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Grands Crus & Classés Join wine expert Caro Feely as she dives a little deeper into an arcane world...

46

Living Property Pages A profile of Verteuil-sur-Charente

50

Petal Power Peonies - planning for colour in spring

65

Here they come....

Part two of our guide to live music events

66

Pardon!

Going Underground

Summertime bonheur with Emma-Jane Lee

Troglodyte homes are found in some remarkable settings

Business Directory

34

Practical Advice Your questions answered

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News round up British Stories

Red Cross Helpline

An English-language helpline offering practical support for administrative tasks, as well as general assistance, has been set up under the auspices of the Croix-Rouge and is available to anyone living in France. There are currently four volunteers who answer the calls between 9am5pm, Monday to Friday, and who can help make appointments and locate suitable services, or simply listen. One volunteer also speaks Dutch. The service is based in Normandy and has been running since May. Tel: 07 86 28 11 99 or email: English-helpline.st-lois @croix-rouge.fr

Bordeaux’s Musée des Beaux-Arts has installed two temporary exhibitions as part of their British Year at the museum. ‘British Stories’ and ‘Absolutely Bizarre!’ build on Bordeaux’s 70-year twinning with Bristol. As well as featuring works loaned by the Louvre and the Tate Gallery in London and painted by the Bristol School of Artists between 1800-1840, some 80 paintings have also been loaned

by Bristol and Bath museums.

They include works by Edward Bird, Francis Danby, Samuel Colman, Rolinda Sharples and William James Müller. ‘British Stories’ runs until 19 September and ‘Absolutely Bizarre!’ until 17 October and will also be featured at the Saint-Jean rail station. See the website for details of opening times.

© Robert Fotograf from Pixabay

Import TVA

UK Driving Licences

It took seven months but finally an agreement has been reached on exchanging UK licences for French ones. The deal means that Britons living in France and driving on licences issued before the end of 2020 may continue to use them and are asked only to apply for an exchange if the expiry date is less than 6 months away, the licence has been lost, stolen or damaged, new permission categories need to be added, or a driving offence has been committed involving the loss of points.

Newcomers to France will have a year to exchange their licence. For full details see bit.ly/LMdlex or visit the UK government’s Living-In guide.

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In an effort to combat e-commerce TVA fraud and ensure fair competition, the EU have implemented new regulations on TVA for imports from countries outside the EU which came into effect on 1 July. Previously, goods declared as costing under €22 were exempt from TVA, but this minimum threshold has now been removed, as many items were being fraudulently declared at lower prices to avoid TVA. It is expected that prices from popular sites such as Amazon and CDiscount, where many sellers are based in Asia, will see prices increase. In addition, transport firms have warned that the removal of the exemption means that all items could now be subject to formal customs clearance procedures which may incur additional costs.

Gifts, however, will remain TVA-free if their value is under €45.

The pick of the news that will affect you wherever you live in south west France…

European Heritage Days ‘Heritage For All’ is this year’s theme for the ‘Journées Européennes du Patrimoine’. Over the weekend of 18-19 September many state-owned properties which are usually closed to the public will throw open their doors, along with other local sites of interest. 18 sites remarquables throughout France have also been chosen to welcome visitors, including the Poterie de Gradignan (33) and the Église-Abbatiale Sainte-Marie de Souillac (46). Watch for details in the local press.

Bassin des Lumières

It doesn’t seem long since we featured the opening of the Klimt exhibition at the former German submarine base in Bordeaux.

Nearly half a million visitors enjoyed the light and sound show.

Now it is the turn of twenty artists including Monet, Renoir and Chagall, whose fascination with the Mediterranean is explored through 500 of their paintings. A short film by Yves Klein accompanies the main exhibition. Reservations are essential.

Rousset Re-elected

© archives guillaume bonnaud

Socialist Alain Rousset has been re-elected as president of the Région Nouvelle-Aquitaine, beating Rassemblement National’s Edwige Diaz convincingly. Before becoming president of the then-new region in 2016, he presided over Aquitaine for nearly 18 years.

Doggy Bags SChool Holidays

y s place on Tuesda Rentrée 2021 take break th the Toussaint 1 September, wi r. tober-2 Novembe planned for 17 Oc

As part of the fight against food waste, all restaurants are now required to offer customers the option of taking home their leftovers in suitable reusable or recyclable containers. Customers may equally bring their own container with them. According to figures from the Ministry of Agriculture, nearly a fifth of all food produced ends up in the bin, representing 150kg per person each year.

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les charentes Le TPCB

Visit the new Pop-up Cadeaux et Brocante in the picturesque village of Tusson for unique vintage items and gifts. Five main sellers bring an eclectic mix with an emphasis on style. Find greetings cards, including hand painted prints plus bespoke resin tiles, pictures and jewellery, childrens’ toys, pet fashion, classic labels in clothing, accessories and shoes, delightful furniture tastefully up-cycled or restored, plus a huge variety of brocante. Their stock changes regularly – see what is available on FB and Instagram. In-house events including a fashion show are also planned, while commissions and furniture work are welcome. Open Wed, Fri-Sun (plus Thu in Jul/Aug) from 11am to 6pm; find them by the church, with plenty of parking. Email: LeTPCB@gmail.com.

Medic Shortage

The lack of medical staff in Charente is becoming an increasing issue. According to senator Nicole Bonnefoy, this has contributed to the closure of the cancer department at Girac hospital, patients now needing to travel to Bordeaux, while 40 per cent of beds will be lost in Ruffec, whose hospital is short of 12 nurses and two doctors. In addition, half of the communes have no midwife, and 30 per cent have no GP. On the horizon, though, is a new law – ‘le loi Buzyn’ – which, it is hoped, will help reverse this trend in rural medical care by increasing student placements in the worst hit areas. However, despite being promised for the upcoming university year, the necessary décret is still awaited to make this a reality.

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Medieval Summer

A medieval park offering thrilling equestrian shows has opened for the summer at Yves (17) below Châtelaillon-Plage. Watch as French knights come together for jousting and stunts until the end of August. The park opens at midday, with the main event at 4pm.

The show ‘Les Légendes d’Autrefois’ takes spectators back to 1087 to witness a marriage between the noble families of Châtelaillon and Anjou. Tickets, priced at 15€ for adults and 10€ for children, can be reserved at: iliprod.fr. Open daily except Saturdays.

News from around the region...

Festival des Potiers

Arsenal Additions

Visit the latest addition to Rochefort’s l’Arsenal des Mers, which allows visitors to explore the world of the periscope through a series of interactive experiences based on observation and communication at sea.

Eight different activities from semaphore to camouflage explain the theory for young and old. Also new this year is ‘Oceana Lumina’, a nocturnal son et lumière show which invites you to embark on an ocean crossing, as you follow a 1.2km trail with a departure every 30 minutes. The site is also home to the frigate Hermione, the Naval Museum, the Corderie-Royale and Accro-Mats, a high-level adventure climbing course, so there’s plenty for a packed day out. See their website for full details.

Restaurant Le Bonnieure “Hidden Gem” “Great little venue” Tel: 05 45 39 67 66 Open Wednesday - Sunday 12h-13h30 & 19h-21h 106 Avenue de la République 16260 Chasseneuil-sur-Bonnieure

Coinciding with Les Journées du Patrimoine in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne (16), one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages, a veritable feast of all things to do with clay is being held on 18-19 September from 10am to 7pm.

In this 5th edition of the Association Albaterra’s ‘Festival des Potiers’, 35 artisan potters will be showing and selling their work in a potter’s market. There will be films, demonstrations, free workshops for adults and children, and the chance to discover Aubeterre, while following the route of the Parcours – a series of installations by clay artists – through the village. On Saturday evening there will be a concert outside the remarkable Église Monolithe (which will be open to visitors throughout the weekend). For full details check: www.albaterraparcoursdargile.com or: www.aubeterresurdronne.com before setting out.

DIARY DATEs!

The 36th Festival Humour et Eau Salée runs from 31 July - 6 August at Saint-Georges-de-Didonne.

Find the programme at: crea-sgd.org

Join in the Roman fun at Cassinomagus (16) over the weekend of 21-22 August. ‘La Pax Romana’ features re-enactments, games, crafts, music and more. See: cassinomagus.fr Saintes (17) and Rochefort (17) will be celebrating the Fête de la Musique a little later in the year than usual. Watch out for details nearer the new date of 11 September.

Lunchtime menu for €13.50 (except weekends) Limousin beef & homemade chips Salads Childrens’ menu Vegetarian options Reservation recommended English spoken www.livingmagazine.fr

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Discover Pineau

Often overshadowed by its big brother cognac, pineau is in the spotlight until the end of August.

Some eighty local distillers of Pineau des Charentes invite you to sample their products and learn about this local speciality through tasting and pairing workshops, visits and other events.

Learn the differences between blanc, rouge and rosé as well as vieux and très-vieux. Discover events near you through the interactive map on www.lesrencontrespineau.fr, where introductory videos and other information can also be viewed.

Tightrope

A call recently went out in local press for sixty volunteers to hold ‘cavaletti’ – the ropes which will steady the cable for tightrope walker Tatiana-Mosio Bongonga as she crosses the Charente at a height of 25 metres. The walk forms part of the Cognac Coup de Chauffe festival’s opening day on Sunday 29 August and starts at La Maison-Blanche nightclub, crossing diagonally to the edge of the canoe club.

She will be making the walk at 3pm.

The festival continues until 12 September, with a host of events including concerts and street theatre. Find the full programme on their website: bit.ly/21cdcc

Favourite Monument

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In an exhibition which recently transferred from Paris to the CIBDI museum in Angoulême (16), more than thirty works by Pablo Picasso are used to illustrate the impact of bande dessinée on the artist.

For the rest of the year you can see his works, surrounded by the comic strips that influenced him, particularly Spanish ‘historias’ featuring Little Nemo and the Katzenjammer Kids. Then explore how his work went on to influence contemporary authors through panels from Guido Crepax, Art Spiegelman to Clément Oubrerie.

The route through the exhibition culminates with Sergio Garcia Sanchez Guerra’s monumental homage to Guernica, proving Picasso’s influence lives on in the world of the 9th art.

As part of the build-up to the European Heritage Days, France 3 has been asking the nation to vote on their favourite monument. Representing Nouvelle-Aquitaine in the finals are the Tours de La Rochelle, which are facing stiff competition from thirteen other sites including the Place Stanislas in Nancy, the Citadelle de Bonifacio, the Pont du Gard and Saint-Mâlo’s ramparts. Voting closed on 22 July and the results will be revealed over the Heritage weekend.

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Dordogne

Nocturnals

Parc de Bournat in Le Bugue takes visitors back in time to experience Périgordine life in 1900. You can watch artisans at work, explore the village, even ride on a vintage Ferris wheel. On Wednesdays and Thursdays until the end of August and on Saturday 18 September, the Parc stays open until 11.30pm for ‘Les Nocturnes’, an opportuniity to enjoy the open-air dining and entertainment crowned with a dazzling firework display. See their website for ticket details.

Best-loved Markets

With so many to choose from, the French public loves to vote for their favourite and most beautiful sites. Over 3.5 million votes were cast in TF1’s annual competition to find the most beautiful market in France and two Nouvelle-Aquitaine markets were in the top 6. Overall winner is Etaples-sur-Mer in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region, but Sarlat (pictured above) came in 4th place with Rochefort (17) making 6th.

CSF Cycle Ride

Cancer Support France has announced that they will once again be running their fundraising cycle ride ‘Activity for Life’ - this year south of our region from Carbonne to Fronsac, Haute Garonne (31). In past years it has been a linear ride which can really only be undertaken by more experienced cyclists. This time there will be opportunities for everyone to be involved, as the ride will be less challenging and there will also be a circular walk on the Saturday for non-cyclists. The event will take place from 2-5 September and is supported by Gasconybased cartoonist Perry Taylor – for full information see: cancersupportfrance.org.

© Perry Taylor

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News from around the region...

Liberty

Local author Eilidh McGinness has launched the first in her trilogy exploring the lives behind the French Résistance, after three years of research into the movement in Dordogne. The second instalment, ‘Equality’ will be launched before the end of the year. Set in the fictional village of Saint-Antoine-de-Double, near Mussidan on a strategically important supply route, the storyline and the characters are based on the real activities of the Résistance.

Building Materials

While builders have been able to return to their sites after the confinement, the Dordogne branch of the French Building Federation (FFB) has raised concerns over the nationwide shortage of building materials impacting small and large sites alike. Plasterboard, some paints and building timber are all now in short supply with prices rising by up to 50 per cent. The sourcing of European wood for sites in Asia and America, both of which opened up earlier, is one of the issues faced and there is concern that large sites, like the one at Périgueux hospital, are in danger of running out of supplies.

The same shortages are being seen in local builders’ merchants and DIY stores, so all projects will be more expensive until supplies are back on track.

Château de Duras

Each year this popular Lot-et-Garonne landmark, with panoramic views over the Dropt Valley from its stunning balconies, offers a calendar of family activities. Built during the 12th century, the Château became an impregnable fortress in the 14th century before passing into the hands of the Durfort family. After surviving the Hundred Years’ War and the Wars of Religion, the Château was transformed into a Renaissance hunting lodge. Each day until 22 August, marvel at the on site falconry display before being thrilled by the daring Prince Noir as he fights his enemies on horseback. On 7, 14 and 21 August enjoy the spectacular equestrian fire show at 10pm at the foot of the castle. See the website at chateau-deduras.com for details of all the events on offer including a 4D light show throughout the summer season.

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Reservoirs

Last year we brought you news of the dispute over the large reservoirs being dug to supply water for farmers over the summer. ‘Bassines, non merci!’ protested that the volumes to be reserved in these 16 reservoirs in the Deux-Sèvres, Vienne and Charente-Maritime would reduce the water available to the Marais Poitevin as well as surrounding areas. The préfets of the three départements imposed a delay of ten months on the construction. Tribunal judges have since reviewed the detailed impact statements and have ruled that nine of the proposed reservoirs need to be reassessed, as the anticipated volumes exceed what has been consumed over the past ten years, while seven can proceed. This battle over the rights to local water will continue to run.

Alongside artisanal markets every Tuesday in August (from 4-9pm), Apremont (85) is hosting a Marché Nocturne with live music on Saturday, 21 August from 5-11pm in the village centre.

Entrance is free, see: bougetonculturel.fr

DIARY DATEs!

Food Trucks n’ Roll gives a good idea of what will be happening over the weekend of 17-19 September at Chauray (79). 10 free concerts, 30 food trucks serving everything from Lebanese to Breton specialities, plus street theatre and art exhibitions. Full details on Facebook.

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Deux-sèvres & Vendée

Kangaroo Abounds

Two years ago a kangaroo or wallaby was reported in the vicinity of Reffannes (79) with more sightings over the course of a month. It was sadly found dead after a collision with a car, when it was confirmed that it was indeed a kangaroo, although it was neither chipped nor tattooed. No-one came forward to claim the animal, so the conclusion was that it had been kept without the correct permissions. A second animal has now been seen in the same area, apparently following the river Vonne, so if you think you see a kangaroo in the wild in that area, you may be right!

The search has been passed over to the agents of the OFB (the French office of biodiversity).

Cycling Routes The new Vendée Vélo guide details 74 routes on the 1,770km of cycle routes and is now available to pick up from the Hôtel du Département de la Vendée or to view online at vendeevelo.fr.

As well as 29 loops covering 10-80km, the guide also includes some experimental night routes, just follow the photoluminescent markings!

News from around the region...

Yoga Retreats

Magdi Barabás is truly international, having been born in Transylvania, Hungary, completing a Master’s degree in Germany with an exchange year in London, before living in Barcelona for 5 years. She moved to Paris in 2016, finally settling in the Vendée. As well as an extensive repertoire of languages, Magdi brings with her a deep understanding of yoga techniques, gained through teacher training in India and the Netherlands, which she offers through a series of

Wolves Return

The Vendée prefecture has confirmed that a ‘canine’ photographed earlier this year in Jard-sur-Mer by a wildlife tracking camera is, in fact, a grey wolf. Grey wolf sightings have been confirmed in several NouvelleAquitaine départements in recent years including CharenteMaritime, Charente, Dordogne and Vienne. Wolves travelled back into France from Italy in the 1990s after they were eradicated by hunting in the 1930s, and they are now protected by law. There is tension between farmers and the government, as numbers rise and livestock attacks increase, but the wolves are not seen to pose a danger to humans as they are naturally timid and roam across a large territory. Time will tell whether the wolf photographed in the Vendée can find a mate and become established.

day and weekend retreats. Magdi explains: “While sharing yoga in a regular class can help balance our day-to-day lives on the physical, mental and emotional level, workshops and retreats offer a more focused immersion into the various aspects of yoga, leading us to understand who we really are on a more profound level.” The retreats include both theoretical and practice classes, accommodation and vegetarian meals at La Petite Guyonnière in Maché (85). Join Magdi for two individual days in September: an introduction to Yin Yoga and the 5 elements of TCM (on 25 Sept) and an introduction to the chakras (on 26 Sept). A week-long retreat will take place from 25 June-2 July 2022 introducing Yoga philosophy and Yoga Nidra, but book soon as places are limited. For full details see: www.magdibarabas.com.

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Cat Litter

Used cat litter makes up an astounding 3% of household waste here in France - 450,000 tonnes of non-biodegradable cat litter are discarded annually.

Vienne manufacturer Firstpellets has developed a bio version that is not only free from chemicals but is also biodegradable and compostable. To ensure its bio credentials, the cat litter pellets are sold loose, en vrac, through dedicated distributors placed in 150 stores across France, the first being Intermarché in Poitiers. By 2030 all stores over 400m2 will need to sell 20% of their goods without packaging, making this an eminently sensible way to launch.

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The project in Saint-Junien (87) to create a space dedicated to leather has received an injection of cash from the France Relance plan to help with the renovation of the brownfield sites along the Vienne river. Six hundred thousand euros will allow the project, which began 15 years ago with total budget of 7.2 million euros, to be completed more quickly.

Two buildings are to be dedicated to

the region’s leather-working history and will include a museum as well as exhibition and workshop spaces.

Nearby, Hermès has announced a recruitment drive to find an additional 100 employees to learn the skills required to produce luxury leather goods, particularly gloves, for which the training programme alone takes 12-18 months. This expansion, along with the opening of the Cité du Cuir in 2024, will bring a new dynamism to the area.

Farmers’ Markets Local producers are coming together under the label ‘Marchés des Producteurs de Pays’ during the summer. Visit the website (marches-producteurs.com) to locate those near you on an interactive map, where you can find details of the different open-air markets. Many offer tables and barbecues so you can enjoy the food you’ve bought, in a convivial atmosphere - some even have live entertainment laid on. Just remember to bring your cutlery and plates!

News from around the region...

Pinail Celebrates

La Réserve Naturelle Nationale de Pinail at Vouneuilsur-Vienne (86) is celebrating its 40th anniversary this year. This exceptional site, with over 6,000 ponds created by quarrying for mill stones, now has more than 2,500 species of flora and fauna. There is concern over the impact of climate change on the ponds, which could dry up as temperatures increase, so the 142-hectare site is in the process of obtaining a Ramsar quality label as a wetland of global importance to help with protection efforts.

The Ouest Limousin Communauté de Communes has organised a host of free events for all the family beside their picturesque swimming lakes in Saint-Mathieu (87440) and Cognac-la-Forêt (87310). Enjoy free parking, camper van facilities, snack bars, play areas, and sandy beaches with lifeguards.

Votes Returned

The UK Elections Bill has been published which, when it is passed, will finally overturn the 15-year rule removing the right to vote in the UK from Brits abroad. The details on registering and voting procedure have yet to be announced, and voting will be in the UK constituency in which the overseas citizen last resided. While the move is welcomed, many will see it as 5 years too late, and measures in the bill introducing voter ID are concerning.

> 5 Aug (S-M): come and learn magic tricks and juggling from 2-6pm > 6 Aug (S-M): try your hand at archery and archery tag (a hilarious cross between paintball and archery) from 2-5pm > 9 Aug (ClF): archery and archery tag from 2-5pm > 12 Aug (S-M): pony rides from 2-6pm (from 3 years old)

> 13 Aug (S-M): archery and archery tag from 2-5pm > 19 Aug (ClF): pony rides from 2-6pm You can also download the ‘Loopi’ mobile app to discover a multitude of stunning walks, cycle routes, and bridlepaths nearby. Find details at www. tourisme-ouestlimousin.com or on Facebook: @ouestlim

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Sea Breeze

18 | living places to visit

Yearning for the coast, but hoping to avoid crowds? The Charente estuary could just be the perfect spot WORDS & photos: Roger Moss

T

he River Charente, as we discovered in previous issues, makes an entertaining travelling companion, so we felt it was high time we set off to see what the river still had in store after flowing past the historic former naval port of Rochefort. We were surprised by what we discovered among the final meanders which herald the Charente’s transformation from river to estuary.

As you approach Rochefort a skeletal outline rises beyond the skyline like some vast alien life form. Heading towards it will bring you face to face with the Pont Transbordeur de Martrou. Now painstakingly renovated, France’s last remaining transporter

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bridge looks truly astonishing when towering above you. For almost 70 years its deck, suspended on steel cables from a truck moving along a track high overhead, carried road traffic across the Charente until 1967, when the nearby Viaduc de Martrou took over the task of providing a final road crossing before the Atlantic coast. Once it was retired, the transporter bridge was scheduled for demolition, but determined public campaigns to save it proved successful and in 1976 it received Monument Historique protection. Today it has an easier life, transporting only foot passengers and cyclists, who have a choice of nearby dedicated routes.

If you’ve reached this spot by car

then you’ll probably soon be joining those driving across the viaduct, keeping your eyes on the road while your passengers get to enjoy elevated views of the transporter bridge and the surrounding landscape (including protected nature reserves) from over 40m above the river. On the other side lies the Aeroport de RochefortCharente-Maritime (which shares its runway with the adjacent air force base), but take the first exit towards

Carrelets near Fort Lupin (right)

living places to visit | 19

Port des Barques’ Plage des Anses offers low-tide bathing

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La Fontaine Royale, near Lupin & île d’Aix ferry

20 | living places to visit Soubise and you’ll leave most of the traffic behind and be plunged straight back into open countryside. The town itself can trace its history to the galloromain settlement of Sopitiniacum, and in 1667 was declared a barony by Louis XIV. The ruling family of former Breton nobles created the ornate 17th century Hôtel des Rohan which now houses the town’s mairie, and faces the stately neo-Classical façade of the Église Saint-Pierre. On the riverbank some way behind it lies an ancient crossing point perpetuated in summer months by a bateau-passeur carrying foot passengers and cyclists.

Just beyond it the river embarks upon a full 180 degree meander, both banks being lined with traditional carrelets accessed by gravel tracks. By now we’ve entered a landscape of flat coastal marshland managed in the timehonoured way by drainage channels, like those further inland in the Marais Poitevin. Meanwhile, the tarmac winds its way through the hamlets of Le Vignaud and La Cailleterie towards our next stop at Lupin. Here, a small sign to Fort Lupin will direct you via a gravel track to a small, but perfectly preserved fort constructed on the riverbank in 1683 as part of military engineer Vauban’s ‘belt of fire’ to defend the Arsenal Royal de Rochefort.

Its secondary role was to protect vessels which had been rope-hauled from a towpath to a small harbour just downstream, to take on armaments and clean drinking water from a source known as the Fontaine Royale Lupin, prior to their sea voyages.

The fort is today privately owned, but each summer guided visits reveal its innermost secrets (see factfile for details), and you can see something of the exterior by continuing beyond the gated entrance and walking a footpath

to the riverbank on your left. You’ll emerge between the fort and a line of carrelets.

Also surviving virtually intact (with road access from just before Port-desBarques) is the Fontaine Royale, an ornate limestone construction, whose reserves were boosted by three other springs nearby via underground pipes.

The port it served has long since disappeared, however, the sole surviving feature being a sculpted stone pediment from 1759 near the footbridge to the Fontaine, beyond which is a pontoon used by passenger boats departing for the Île d’Aix. Beside it a large slipway for oyster boats tells you what sustains much of the local economy, although Portdes-Barques has become popular with summer visitors, with a tourist office and a range of essential services. It’s also an agreeable spot for lunch.

The main attraction, though, is the Passe aux Bœufs, a slender 1km-long L’Hôtel des Rohan, Soubise

Visit Blandine and Anne-Laure at their family’s domaine.

Every day at 10am, 3pm and 5pm.

Have a real immersion in the World of Cognac and Pineau des Charentes.

Reserve your tour : tel : + 33 6 62 38 37 06 / + 33 6 80 41 87 34 contact@contefilles.com Chez Grimaud - 16480 Chillac www.contefilles.com @VignobleConteFilles www.livingmagazine.fr

living places to visit | 21

The Phare de Soumard, SaintLaurent-de-la-Prée

‘‘Swim or sunbathe here and you’ll have a backdrop of carrelets’’ causeway providing access at low tide to the diminutive Île Madame. Despite having a surface area of well less than one square kilometre the island nevertheless packs in a wealth of interesting features, which in summer are best discovered by bike or on foot. Soon visitors will enjoy views of the island and the coastline from a panoramic terrace on the roof of a large 18th century fort constructed as part of Rochefort’s defences, and owned since 1994 by the Conservatoire du Littoral.

We’ll be returning when the project has been completed, but for now we’ll stay on the mainland and press on, to reveal an attractive feature which you’ll reach soon after passing the causeway.

It’s easily missed, but Port-des-Barques possesses a sheltered beach from which you can take a refreshing dip even after the tide has retreated, thanks to an artificial lagoon. Bathers at the Plage des Anses have lifeguard supervision during July and August, and there’s also shaded parking (note that dogs aren’t

allowed). Swim or sunbathe here and you’ll have a backdrop of carrelets, and you’ll find many more just below the headland beyond the beach. Park along the Avenue de la Baie to stretch your legs and enjoy cliff-top views of the Île d’Oléron in the company of a couple of time-worn naval canons, or continue a little further to a picnic area with tables.

Much of the coastline ahead is the domain of oyster fishermen, but you’ll find peace and solitude among the Charente’s northern shores –

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22 | living places to visit

Coastal path south of Fouras

Port des Barques – tourist office and restaurant terrace

‘la rive droite’ – where much of the landscape has also been shaped by draining marshland. To get there means leaving Rochefort on the busy route which heads north towards La Rochelle and then taking the exit signed to Saint-Laurent-de-la Prée.

Again you’ll leave the traffic mayhem behind and will soon enter the village, the heart of which feels like a very desirable location, with an appropriately imposing mairie. Despite extensive restorations the village église is interesting, its architecture combining both Romanesque and Gothic features dating from 10th-17th centuries, the circular windows (‘oculi’) of the nave being

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particularly unusual.

From Saint-Laurent there’s a choice of onward routes, the most-travelled, not surprisingly, leading west to Fouras, one of our favourite coastal retreats.

If, however, you feel like going your own way and seeing where you end up, then the southbound route signed to Les Roches should prove interesting. It begins among mature woodland, before eventually passing through the villages of La Haute Roche and La Boche Basse, the latter offering a second route to Fouras. Ignore it and press on, though, and you’ll pass a track leading to more carrelets, while ahead lies a vast pastel expanse of managed marshland, home to grazing cattle and a host of wildlife, including otters, egrets and storks.

Glance to your left now and then and soon you’ll see a slender white shape standing tall amid the pastures.

When you’re level with it you should find room to park just before a gravel track (barred to traffic) which will lead you right to the 23m-high Phare de Soumard. You’ll see that the lighthouse faces a second, lower structure nearby: the Feu Antérieur de Soumard.

Between them they provide mariners with navigation aids. Continue along the path to the bank of the estuary and you’ll reach the site of another of Rochefort’s defensive installations, the Fort Lapointe, constructed in 1672.

Not that you have to walk to reach the coast. Continue on the route which

brought you here and soon you’ll find yourself right beside the Plage de l’Espèrance – or almost. In fact, as you’ll discover if you park and make for the shoreline, between the road and the beach is a coastal path for walkers and cyclists, part of the final stage of the Flow Vélo long distance cycle route whose 290km itinerary begins in Périgord and ends on the île d’Aix. That takes it through Fouras, which is clearly visible at the far end of the beach, and which is yet another of the Charente Estuary’s rich rewards for those who take the time to witness the river’s triumphant final flourish.

Find out more www.rochefort-ocean.com is a •mine of information, including:

Guided individual & group visits of Fort Lupin (and other coastal forts), Moëze & Yves protected nature reserves, 300km of marked walks & cycle routes and much more.

Rochefort Ocean Tourist Office •hasThe a Topo Guide road-book showing 26 hiking trails and 15 cycling routes, freely accessible to all and ranging from 2.5 km to 18 km.

More dedicated cycling itineraries and •routes from the Pont Transbordeur de Martrou and beyond: www.visorando. com/randonnee-soubise.html

living promotion | 23

High Hopes There will always be animals in desperate need of our help.

Fortunately, various associations work tirelessly to care for, re-home and foster them, but this vital work requires continuing financial support. Since 2009 the Hope Association, a fundraising organisation run by volunteers, has been providing it with revenue from Hope Charity Boutiques, plus regular events like the hugely popular Hope Book Fairs.

So successful were they that the Deux-Sèvres team was soon searching for a large, easily accessible permanent base, and found the perfect spot, with ample parking space, right beside the D948 on the outskirts of Sauzé-Vaussais, close to the Charente and Vienne borders and the RN10. Today, after a lot of hard work by the team, the Hope Shop 79 is packed with huge range of items, all carefully checked, sorted and displayed under cover. What’s more, most books, DVDs and CDs are now in alphabetical order, making browsing much simpler than before. There’s also a well stocked café tea-room and a Brit Shop whose expanding range of foods direct from the UK now includes vegetarian and vegan

We visit the Hope Association’s flagship site, dedicated to supporting animal charities

items – anything they don’t already have they’ll endeavour to get for customers.

With something for everyone, the site has become a vibrant meeting place.

The high profile location has made it a surprisingly cosmopolitan one, too.

French customers now account for around 40% of the clientele, and they seem to love the British items, while conversely many British buyers come to see what they can find among the latest French furniture arrivals. The team can pick up larger pieces of donated furniture and are also happy to deliver any after purchase.

Such down-to-earth thinking has generated enthusiastic support, which even the recent lockdown restrictions failed to dampen – during that difficult period over 300 people joined the Hope Association Charity Shop 79’s Facebook Group, which has over 1,500 members.

As for the future, more volunteers are always needed and warmly welcomed by the team, which hopes to continue to increase its revenue, enabling the wider Hope Association to support as many charities as possible to care for animals in need of help.

When & Where...?

Hope Shop 79 SAUZÉ-VAUSSAIS 2 Route de Vauthion 79190 Sauzé-Vaussais

OPEN: 10h00-16h00 on Thurs & 1st Sun each month.

Donations: on Thurs until 15h00 – or Tue & Wed by appointment.

Tel: 06.88.01.10.74 shopseventynine4hope@gmail.com Hope 16 Confolens 51 Route de Confolens La Tulette 16500 Ansac-sur-Vienne shopsixteen4hope@gmail.com Hope 87 Eymoutiers 2 Rue de la Vieille Tour 87120 Eymoutiers shopeightyseven4hope@gmail.com Hope Association (Association loi 1901)

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24 | living days out

Whether you’re a seafood lover or a rockpool rambler, the shoreline offers rich rewards when the tide retreats words: jessica Knipe

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Photo LEFT:© Alison BOISSARD / CMT; above: © Chrystelle Ecale / rochefort ocÉan

Shore thing

Low tides around the île d’Oléron uncover treasure troves of oysters and mussels, with gorgeous views to boot

W

hile you might not be allowed to copy Molly Malone and sing ‘cockles and mussels, alive, alive-oh!’ to sell your catch down narrow, cobbled streets, there can be few more satisfying experiences than a day at the beach gathering your own lunch from the sea. It’s free, it’s fun and what’s more it’s accessible to just about everyone, if you know where to look and follow the rules.

When the summer comes to an end, the Atlantic coast’s tidal charts promise a few days with higher than average coefficient numbers. Put more simply, when the tide goes out the water retreats – sometimes over hundreds of metres – leaving bare vast stretches of sand and rock pools, known as the ‘estran’, or foreshore. The higher the coefficient, the further out the tide will go.

living days out | 25

Enter enthusiasts of ‘la pêche à pied’, or fishing without a boat, line or hook. With its wide beaches, rocky inlets and rich estuaries, the coast of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine is particularly well suited to the pursuit of ‘cockling and winkling’. “Our region is blessed with several renowned shore fishing sites...” says Anne Cigolotti, who is in charge of Heritage & Environment at the Écomusée de Port des Barques (17).

“The first thing we hear most people say as they arrive is: ‘Ah – smell that fresh sea air!!’ With the proper preparation, it can be a very rewarding day out.”

Boots on and bucket in hand, sun kissed and sea-salt swept, ‘la pêche à pied’ brings with it a feeling of freedom (more than ever this year, after having been inside for so long), as well as the rewarding sensation of fending for yourself, foraging from the bounty of

the Earth to feed yourself for free.

To ensure that it remains a sustainable pleasure, though, we need to follow a few pretty strict rules. ‘Pêche à pied’ activities are heavily regulated, and rightly so if the sea’s ecosystem is to be protected, and to be sure you won’t be in danger of eating shellfish from contaminated waters.

Before you head out, then, you should first go fishing for some information about when and where to go, and what you’ll be allowed to remove. First there are the obvious responsibilities, like replacing any stones you might lift to find crabs, not trampling the shells on rocks, and definitely never leaving any rubbish behind. Then there are the rules concerning the size of what you can take home – removing creatures that are too young will not only disrupt population numbers but will also leave you hungry,

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Rockpoolng is the perfect activity for families

26 | living days out Strict guidelines limit the amount of clams and cockles you can take home

as they’ll be inedible anyway.

The best time to go is when the tides have a high coefficient – you can check this out on websites such as maree.info.

“Any tide coefficient upwards from 80 will guarantee that you come home with something good,” explains Anne, who also reminds fishing enthusiasts to

respect the tide schedule, so that they don’t get stuck. “The fishing should start about two hours before low tide, and then stop when it’s at its lowest.

People will then have enough time to walk safely back to the shore before the tide comes back up.”

You’ll also need to make sure you leave something behind for others. The legal maximum, which should be signposted at the entrance of each site, currently means that your catch shouldn’t contain more than 2kg of cockles, 3kg of clams, 5kg of oysters, mussels, razor clams or scallops and 6 spider crabs. In fact, the total catch for one day, all species combined, shouldn’t exceed 5kg, and then only for personal consumption. It’s a simple enough rule: take only what you can actually eat.

Finally there’s the obvious comment that people shouldn’t fish on foot in harbours, and must also make sure that

Minimum catch sizes

Pacific oyster: 5cm

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Take care to adhere to minimum catch sizes to protect species for future generations Whelk: 4.5cm

Native oyster: 6cm

Edible crab: 14cm

Blue mussel: 4cm Razor clam: 10cm

we’re no closer than 25 metres from the official, commercial oyster and mussel beds. When in doubt call the tourist office, or take a look at websites like charente-maritime.gouv.fr which publish full lists of forbidden areas.

Some of the most popular spots for la pêche à pied are the wide, sandy beaches and rock pools of la Pointe de la Fumée just beyond Fouras-les-Bains, le Jamblet on the île d’Aix, or the plateau des Palles on the île Madame. “The type of catch will be different, depending upon the environment,” explains Anne.

“The île Madame is quite rocky, so it’s good for oysters and winkles, and the île d’Oléron has mainly sand and silt, so people go there for clams and cockles.

Estuaries are particularly rich, because they are places for species to come and reproduce, and also to rest.”

So by now you know where to go, and you’ve figured out exactly when

Cockle: 3cm

Scallop: 4cm Warty venus: 4.3cm Carpet shell: 4cm Prawn: 5cm Other shrimps: 3cm Wedge shell: 2.5cm

Check for information boards carrying local regulations . For a full list in English, see: pecheapied-loisir.fr

living days out | 27

the tide will be low. Now you’ll need some tools. A bucket, a rake and a net should do the job, and just a simple kitchen fork and soup spoon will also come in handy. For clams, ideally you can bring a special two-pronged fork, and for razor clams a hook no larger than 10cm. Mussels and black scallops can be fished by hand, as can spider crabs, while oysters will need a ‘piochon’, a little ice axe no larger than 4cm wide.

Whatever happens, just make sure your tools don’t damage the area, or harm the other species around the ones for which you’re fishing. Oh, and there’s really no need to go crazy scratching the sand to get at a clam that’s just under the surface.

Finally, wear sturdy shoes – or ideally rubber boots – and don’t forget a sun hat.

Once you’re equipped with the tools and the knowledge, it’s simply a question of practice makes perfect.

For clams, look out for the two little holes at the surface, quite close to each

If you’ve enjoyed this edition of

Living Magazine,

other, and then grab it with your fingers if you can, so that you don’t disturb anything but the surface, and not the ecosystem that lives beneath it. Check its size before you put it in your basket: a clam, or ‘palourde’ should be at least 4cm wide to be considered ready to be fished. Cockles live a little further under the surface, so you’ll need to dig a little deeper, but the same two breathing holes give them away – and these guys will need to be at least 3cm wide before they’re ready to go home with you.

The most fun shell to fish is undoubtedly the razor clam. You can either use a specific tool call a ‘ferrée’ or find one of the big breathing holes that indicates that a clam is under the surface, and then sprinkle it with salt.

The clam will then pop up out of the hole and you’ll just have to pick it up – as long as it’s at least 10cm long, of course.

If you’re surefooted you can look for winkles, mussels or oysters, that you can lift carefully from the rocks. Look under the seaweed to see if you’re lucky enough to find any crabs, while being

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careful to disturb the rockpool as little as possible. And never, ever, take mussels from the ‘bouchots’ or large stakes that belong to the mussel fishing professionals.

Once you’re safely back home again, make sure you wash your catch thoroughly, and keep it somewhere cool. Try to eat it as soon as possible, discarding any shells that are open, damaged or smelling a bit, well, ‘fishy’.

That’s it; you’re a pêche à pied expert.

From now on, at any time when the tide will be low, you’ll be heading to the beach for a breath of sea air and a feast of seafood in no time. Bon appétit!

Summer

inside: e the seasid escaPe to ble caves remarka family fun re & much mo

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18 || living 28 living places places to to visit visit

Village Troglodytic de la Madeleine (24)

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living places to visit | 21

La RoqueGageac (24)

ng i o G underground

photo left: © justin silvester; BELOW RIGHT: Charentes Tourisme © Sébastien LAVAL

Troglodyte homes have been around a long time, and in some remarkable settings

O

ur earliest ancestors lived their entire lives with the constant threat of being attacked by wild animals, not to mention other Neanderthals.

More extreme weather would have taken its toll, too, so eventually some of our prehistoric forebears decided to adopt a cave-dwelling lifestyle. Who would have believed that a million or so years later many of their descendants would still be doing likewise?

Or almost. The property market isn’t exactly awash with naturally occurring caves suited to modern living, but right here in France there are countless examples of troglodyte dwellings which were originally hewn from solid rock and now serve as living accommodation. Many, though, began with decidedly non-residential purposes in mind, like stone quarrying, as was the case below Blaye (33) around Gauriac and Marmisson. Here, among the cliffs which overlook the Gironde, you’ll find troglodyte homes once occupied by river fishermen, who took advantage of abandoned excavations which had contributed to the vast quantities of stone needed to construct the city of Bordeaux.

Their scale is as nothing, though, compared to what lies further up the estuary at Meschers-sur-Gironde, whose limestone cliffs rise to around 30m above the waves and

Église monolithe, Aubeterre-surDronne (16)

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30 | living places to visit

Maison Forte de Reignac (24)

Former ‘falun’ stone quarries, Doué-laFontaine (49)

are home to a veritable troglodytic village with a fascinating history.

Such an exposed position led to natural erosion, creating a series of caverns which offered refuge to prehistoric man, whose descendants began to enlarge them and used their stone-cutting skills to create new excavations. By around the 8th century they had been joined by chambers used to store grains or conceal smuggled salt, a highly prized commodity which was heavily taxed. Later still Protestants would employ the caves as covert places of worship during the Wars of Religion, while others began to convert them to ultra-affordable living accommodation. They would become dramatically less so, however, when the former fishing village embraced the

‘‘Near Tursac are other surprises, including a whole troglodytic village’’ great vogue for sea bathing during the 19th/20th centuries, when caves were being snapped up and transformed into second homes by wealthy outsiders (among them the Hennessy family of cognac producers). Some even hosted ‘guinguettes’ for post-bathing relaxation and entertainment. Today two sites – Les Grottes de Régulus and Les Grottes de Matata – are important visitor attractions, with guided tours, restaurant, bar, museum and even a hotel.

Another centre for troglodytic construction is le Périgord. Poised 140m

above the river at La Roque-Gageac, for example, is a famous 12th century fort which recently reopened to visitors after a long campaign of stabilisation works. Just below it are several troglodyte dwellings, one of which is now a character gîte for holiday lets, with the bonus of elevated panoramic views across the Dordogne valley.

A little further north, in an otherworldly landscape among the extravagant meanders of the Vézère river near Tursac, are further surprises, including a whole troglodytic village.

Cave des Roches, Bourré (41)

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Grottes de l’Abbaye de Brantôme (24)

living places to visit | 31

Photo left:© nadia van den rym

The Abri de la Madeleine bears witness to 17,000 years of human occupation of a vast naturally formed gallery in a limestone gorge. Much of what is visible today dates from the Hundred Years War (1337-1453), although the elevated site wasn’t finally abandoned until the late 19th century.

Just a couple of kilometres away is another extraordinary site. The Maison Forte de Reignac, the best preserved troglodyte home in France, has survived virtually intact since it was constructed during the 14th century. It’s probably also the largest, its immense façade constructed against the rock and concealing a series of galleries which had offered shelter since prehistoric times. The medieval rooms contain period furnishings and decor, while the rock galleries display exhibits from archaeological excavations from the site and its surroundings (plus a bizarre museum of medieval torture). Round off a visit by admiring

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32 | living places to visit

Villaines-lesRochers (37)

Coastal grottes, Meschers-sur-Gironde (17)

the beauty of the scenery from the upper terraces.

A greater concentration of troglodytic dwellings is found across the northern border of the Vienne département, where the local geology includes layers of pale, fine-grained sedimentary limestone known as ‘tuffeau’ (or ‘tufeau’). The driving force for extracting it was the wave of construction of ever more extravagant chateaux in the Loire Valley during the 15th-16th centuries. The best and most highly prized stone is found some way below ground, so in time quarrying activities could produce extensive subterranean networks, as we see at the Cave des Roches in Bourré (41). Join a guided tour and you’ll see the galleries which produced stone for Renaissance jewels like Chambord, Cheverny and Chenonceaux, a period now celebrated at Bourré by a dazzling, delicately sculpted representation of a troglodytic village some 50m below ground. Today 120km of galleries on 7 levels have found a new role, producing around 100 tonnes of mushrooms annually, including ‘pied bleu’ varieties which are exported to some of the finest restaurants around the globe.

While very few of us might actually

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choose to live at that depth, the year-round constant temperatures which favour mushroom production (and elsewhere wine storage) are also among the practical advantages of troglodyte homes much nearer the surface. In summer they remain cool, with no need for air conditioning, while in winter they offer worthwhile insulation from plummeting temperatures, making them a sound Preserved troglodytic farm, Vallée Goupillières (37)

choice for energy efficiency.

Better still, you also open up the possibility of far more spacious living, even in sought after locations whose conventional building potential has long since been exhausted. That concept underpinned the creation of the ‘Villa Troglodyte’ – a low impact five-storey residential property constructed entirely within an existing rock formation in the very heart of

Photo Above: © Alain pagnoux; PHOTO left: © loic Thebaud

“Most quarried limestone is relatively light and surprisingly soft”

living places to visit | 33 Angles-surl’Anglin (86)

this might not be quite as tough as it sounds, since most quarried limestone is both relatively light and surprisingly soft, the surface only hardening after some time in contact with the air. Until then it remains workable by cutting with a masonry saw or smoothing using a traditional rasp-like hand tool known, curiously, as a ‘chemin de fer’ (yes, like a railway). In fact it was tufeau’s initial softness which made it cost-effective to sculpt the multitude of stylistic details found on chateaux, cathedrals and other landmark buildings. It therefore simplifies the process of cutting out channels to conceal water, drainage, electrics and any other services in a modern troglodyte home. It gets better: other features which can be carved from the rock face (and so save buying furniture) When you think about it, creating include storage cupboards, recesses a troglodyte home is the opposite for bookshelves... even sinks or of ‘construction’, since the more baths, in fact. you take away the bigger the The same obviously applies to enclosed spaces become – and fireplaces, many of those found in you won’t need to build more than older dwellings being surprisingly one exterior wall (if it isn’t there ornate for what were originally already) or add a roof. somewhat basic accommodation.

Can’t afford highly desirable You’ll usually find them on a limestone flooring? You can now.

There are, though, a few challenges, side wall close to the front wall, to minimise the depth of stone not least the time and effort through which their chimney flues involved in cutting and removing would need to be cut. As usual, materials like limestone to create living areas. The good news is that practicality dictates design.

Villa Troglodyte, Monte Carlo, by architect Jean-Pierre Lott & Atelier Raymond

Monte Carlo by architect Jean-Pierre Lott & Atelier Raymond. The result is astonishing, not only for the volumes of the living areas (520m2), but also for their day-to-day energy efficiency, courtesy of geothermal probes, heat exchangers, photovoltaïc panels, solar/light tunnels, grey water recycling, natural cork insulation and more besides. As a result future occupants will have minimal bills for heating themselves or the large indoor swimming pool (not to mention charging an electric vehicle). The price-tag? Telling would be indiscrete, but the ultimate (so far) troglodytic home is said to have been offered at around €26 million.

Why build, when you can carve?

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34 | practical living

law&money << OUr experts answer YOur questions...

Q

My daughter, who is a British citizen, would like to move to France to be near us. She wants to start a business here; what does she need to do?

A

Things have changed since 1 January 2021.

Your daughter will now need to apply for a permit or a carte de séjour before she can register her business. As she will be arriving in France after 1 January 2021, she will need to apply for a Carte de Séjour ‘Entrepreneur / Profession libérale’ at the French Embassy in the UK. She will need to plan this ahead of her move as a visitor’s carte de séjour will not

allow her to register a business and it cannot be applied for within France.

REQUIREMENTS She will need to fill in a few forms (Cerfa 13473*01) and provide a business plan. The French Embassy will issue the carte de séjour based on the viability of this business plan. This means ensuring that she is complying with her sector’s regulations, indicating which legal structure she will create her business under and providing a 3-year financial plan. Remember that there is no automatic transference of professional qualifications post Brexit.

Your daughter will also have to show that her activity will generate over 18,655€ of income (not sales) for an individual. This is the equivalent of the minimum wage or SMIC for 2021. If the business cannot generate this kind of income to start with, she should provide

extra information on where she will draw her income from, for instance a private pension, rental income from her UK property, or savings. It is best to provide documentary proof of this, such as bank statements.

The French Embassy wants to ensure that if they issue a Carte de Séjour ‘Entrepreneur / Profession libérale’ she will be able to work legally and have sufficient income to cover her cost of living in France.

STRUCTURE & QUALIFICATIONS My advice is to keep any business set-up simple and check the regulations. Going for an incorporated business means that she will have to supply a draft of the letters of incorporation. In this case, she will need to work with a lawyer or an accountant. If she does want to practice a trade such as hairdressing, she will need to prove her qualifications or at least 3 years’ experience as an employee or self-employed.

Valerie Aston runs Start Business in France where she uses her extensive experience to help small businesses, either through coaching or via the online forum. www.startbusinessinfrance.com

Do you want to improve your French but find you can’t get to lessons?

Would you prefer to learn in the privacy of your own home?

Try Frantastique, the online course with fun, daily lessons, FREE for one month, and see your French improve.

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Q

I’m confused with the changing Covid regulations. What information source do you recommend?

A

We use the official French Covid app ‘TousAntiCovid’ which can be downloaded onto your phone. As well as detailing the latest statistics and regulations, with links to the official government notices, the app will also notify you if you have been in contact with someone who has had a positive test. Venues and shops should display a barcode which you can scan into the app to learn if anyone there at the same time later becomes ill.

Importantly, you can also store your vaccination certificates for easy access and an added benefit is that the app can be displayed in English. Just download at your usual smartphone app store.

practical living | 35

Social Charges and UK Accounts

Q

I have just received my avis d’impôts and see that I have paid social charges on interest from my savings accounts in the UK. I thought my ISA accounts were tax free?

A

All savings accounts in the UK will attract French social charges on either the interest, if it is a savings account, or the gain if an investment.

In France there are designated savings accounts that you can use that will pay the interest you receive both income tax

and social charge free.

These accounts are called “Livret A” accounts and you can put aside a maximum of €22,950 per person. They give you instant access to your savings and typically pay around 0.5%. The Euro is the only currency option.

For investments in France, a wrapper that is used to protect the growth from social charges is called an Assurance Vie. An Assurance Vie is an investment and is generally for a minimum five-year period.

The investment funds

the Livret A over the life of the investment.

chosen within an Assurance Vie take into consideration how long you wish to invest and your appetite for risk versus reward. You can invest in different currencies including Euros, GBP and US Dollars. They historically give you a much higher return than

Assurance Vies can also provide a monthly or quarterly income and these withdrawals are calculated in very tax efficient ways, meaning you will typically have less income tax and less social charges to pay. They carry the added benefit of aiding inheritance tax planning and are a good solution for investing for your retirement. Once you have held an Assurance Vie for eight years you also have a tax free allowance of 4,600€ per person on any withdrawals.

Amanda Johnson works as an Independent Financial Advisor with The Spectrum IFA Group.

T: 05 49 98 97 46 or 06 73 27 25 43; amanda.johnson@spectrum-ifa.com; www.spectrum-ifa.com/amanda-johnson.

To register for their newsletter, attend a roadshow event or speak directly to Amanda, call or email her.

There is no charge for their financial planning reviews, reports or recommendations. « The Spectrum IFA Group » is a registered trademark, exclusive rights to use in France granted to TSG Insurance Services S.A.R.L. Siège Social: 34 Bd des Italiens, 75009 « Société de Courtage d’assurances » R.C.S. Paris B 447 609 108 (2003B04384) Numéro d’immatriculation 07 025 332 - www.orias.fr « Conseiller en investissements financiers, référence sous le numéro E002440 par ANACOFI-CIF, association agréée par l’Autorité des Marchés Financiers »

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36 | living family

Avec les enfants ----------------

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oard--er----s -Summ––e––r––B --------------

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There comes a time in your life when the stars align sufficiently for you to truly make someone’s day.

You’ve done some planning, put aside the budget, and a salesperson in a shop has no idea that their day is going to get immeasurably better than they could ever imagine.

“I’d like to buy a paddle board,” I said to the sales assistant standing in front of me, as we inched our way into a newly re-opened Decathlon.

A smile lit up her face as she led the way down among the aisles where other customers perused shoes and socks. After reaching the paddle boards, and after a couple of minutes

of discussion, I selected the model I wanted. Having done my research on the internet I was fairly confident we were on the right track.

“That’ll be perfect,” I said to the girl, who was very happy to sell me a green and white intermediate level board. “Can I have red and white ones, too?” I added, and her face got twice as happy, creaking at the corners of a huge smile.

“Actually, I need a second green and white one, as well” I added seconds later, enjoying the moment immensely. As my words began to sink in she muttered “Trois? Vous en voulez trois, madame?” in a slightly bewildered tone. A moment later the poor girl almost fainted with joy as I uttered my pièce de résistance: “And I also want an inflatable kayak…plus some buoyancy aids and a pump.”

For those of you who read this saga you’ll know that over the past decade or so we have come to love a small village on the Charente close to Saintes. Before Christmas we found a house for sale there and by March had moved in (a feat in itself during Covid times and a second lockdown) and with the summer looming the trip to Decathlon could no longer be put off. Children and young adults alike all love the water, and rising

temperatures had put a dent in the various jobs we had going on. We also had family visitors on the horizon, and we’d promised much fun on the river for them, too, during a summer of celebration with loved ones we haven’t seen for a year and a half.

We returned home from our brief expedition and piled out of the car in the narrow driveway, small people hasty to hit the water.

Three inflatable paddle boards were quickly assembled and pumped up, to disappear across the road in capable hands, down to the riverbank with lightning speed. It’s only fifty metres to the water (I hasten to add that it’s all downhill, and we are well above any traditional or even untraditional flood lines) and I barely had time to find a camera and some towels before three happy people were paddling down westwards, while I ran with the dogs to keep pace on the bank.

There was an awkward moment when one vessel decided to leave port before the owner was installed, and another brief faux pas when another board and its propulsion system, namely a paddle, became detached, but all in all the flotilla was in good shape when it finally got going. Lessons from renting equipment during previous summers seemed to have

living family | 37 Footnote: I’ll add a few practical words abo ut inflatable kayaks an d paddle boards – not a sales pitch, and I am absolutely no expert, but they might be he lpful.

We did a lot of resear ch. If you buy a good trustw orthy brand of inflatable board they are often better than a cheaper hard board.

In fact, they are now even bei ng used by professionals in

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stayed in the memory and there had been no accidental immersions at all as I reached the end of my part of the walkable bank and the convoy headed further west out along the broad waters of the slow-moving river. Far away they moved out of sight around the bend, their brightly coloured buoyancy aids glinting colourfully as they went, and I knew it would be an hour or so before they returned.

This is one of the reasons we moved here: we absolutely love the Charente Maritime and the coast, the endless beaches and the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean – but we also adore the Charente River and all the sun

and beauty it has to offer. This really is perfection, I said to myself.

And with these thoughts in my mind I stepped back up the bank and across the road to the house, to find a banging of hammers and rasping of saws in the barn. Roddy was putting some boards up across the beams, a resting place for our little fleet when they returned.

Things happen fast when we have our minds set on things, I thought, and then saw a flaw in the plans.

“You’ve forgotten something,” I said, and my husband stopped, nail in one hand and hammer in the other. “We need a berth for the kayak, too!” and he instantly realised. Sighing, he went to 1

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competitions. They are also far more forgiving on the feet and knees (which in turn also means one’s back) as they have a slightly less rigid surface.

And of course they can be packed away in a large backp ack which comes with them, so are ideal for travel. Ours are used by the whole family, boi sterous teenagers and ourse lves, slightly more sedate adults, and we cannot fault them!

fetch more wood, and I stepped into the kitchen to put the kettle on, happy to be part of a nautical family once more.

Susan, husband Roddy and their five children live close to the coast in the Charente-Maritime.

She shares her experiences on her popular blog at www.

OurFrenchOasis.com.

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Clues Across 4. It is a poetic contraction. (3) 7. Head of Crossroads pushing police animal expert to appear as a dealer in soap? (8) 8. Journey to Russia is postponed initially. (4) 9. In the end it’s no good replacing directions for younger guides; that will finish them off! (8) 10. Getting no thanks for taking ruler? (4) 11. Final destinations obtained for good discos? (6) 14. Gary, for instance, joining company for endless musical performance? (6) 15. Serious walker has no right to become a dawdler? (6) 17. Keeper of wine cellar confusing brut with the French ingredient? (6) 19. Writer of last letter being

greeted in Andalusia? (4) 20. Region of Ireland enclosing containers of oil diverted to region of Scotland? (8) 23. Boy turning up to get heroin for writer ............. (4) 24. ............. one who delivers ecstasy to old tart? (8) 25. Take the top off cotton wool dressings to make little plugs. (3)

Clues Down 1. A lady who does come here and revitalise at the outset? (4) 2. Precipitation has nowhere to hide. (4) 3. I sell a brew to make friends? (6) 4. Not seeing first of signs of gastric problem is catastrophic? (6) 5. Eliminate after origin of Swiss watch procedure? (5-3) 6. Austrian seen in unusual village surrounds building? (8) 9. Request the result of Root’s missing innings? (3) 12. Cinema hero to work with hide in Malayan tree? (8) 13. Volcanic fall-out scattering around meeting place in

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Looking for something to do on the long summer evenings?

See if you can find the theme to our crossword compiled by Mike Morris. If you need them, the answers are on page 52.

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heavenly location? (8) 16. At first, revels in getting high, trying special fixes? (6) 17. Hit about the Spanish is a scream? (6) 18. Charles, for example, was rather

Show how much you

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a young prince originally. (3) 21. Place mat daughter has dropped off being oleaginous. (4) 22. Mates mixing together could be French, or Swiss perhaps? (4)

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38 | living nikki legon’s cuisine

With holidays abroad off the menu for many, Nikki takes us on a tasty tour of her favourite recipes that remind her of vacations past….

Nikki Legon's

cuisine Raratouille Provençale

Ratatouille Provençale ‘‘The smell takes me to the wonderful markets in the south of France with their vibrant vegetable stalls just calling out to make ratatouille.’’

Tasty Tapas

1 large onion 3 cloves of garlic 3 tbsp olive oil 1 branch of thyme 1 bay leaf small bunch of basil, chopped 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp sugar freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste

serves 4

2 aubergines 2 courgettes 3 peppers - 1 red, 1 green, 1 yellow 3 large tomatoes 400g tin chopped tomatoes

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METHOD Cut the aubergines and courgettes into 1.5 cm chunks.

Peel the peppers or grill until blackened if you prefer a smoky

flavour. Cut them in half, remove the membrane and seeds, cut into 1.5cm chunks.Cut a small cross on the base of each tomato, pour boiling water over, leave for 30 seconds, then place into ice cold water. Peel the skin when cool enough to handle.

Quarter the tomatoes, scrape away the seeds then cut into 1.5cm chunks.

Place a deep frying-pan over a medium heat and, when hot, pour in 2tbsp of olive oil. Brown the aubergines on all sides, until the pieces are soft, remove from the pan and set aside.

Fry the courgette, until soft and golden and set aside. Repeat with the peppers,

living nikki legon’s cuisine | 39

Paella “My take on paella as I love the mix of meat and shellfish, you may prefer one or the other…” serves 6

olive oil for frying 1 chorizo, peeled and sliced 6 boneless chicken thighs, cut into chunks 500g boneless pork, cut into chunks 1 red and green pepper, diced 1 large white onion, diced 4 cloves of garlic, diced 3 large tomatoes, diced 1 bay leaf 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp chilli pepper

150ml white wine 1 pinch of saffron threads, 200g green beans, soaked in a little water 1 litre chicken stock 500g paella rice salt and pepper 6 large prawns 150g frozen peas 12 small shrimps, peeled and veins removed 1 bunch of parsley leaves, chopped lemon wedges to serve

powder with the white wine, stirring until the onions soften. Add the soaked saffron and the water it was soaked in. Add the green beans and half the chicken stock. As it begins to boil add the rice, sprinkling it around the meat.

Cook uncovered without stirring for 10 minutes until the rice has absorbed most of the liquid, add the rest of the stock. Reduce the heat to low and cook for a further 10 minutes. Top with the large prawns and the frozen peas which will defrost in the heat. Add the shrimps a few minutes before serving; they will METHOD only take a minute to warm through.

In a paella pan or a large frying pan add a Once the paella is done and all the good splash of olive oil. Add the chorizo, liquid absorbed, let it stand for a couple chicken and pork, and cook till browned of minutes for the tasty socarrat (the all over. Add the peppers, onion, garlic, light crunchy crust of rice on the tomatoes, bay leaf, paprika and chilli bottom of the pan) to form.

Tasty Alla Tapas Spaghetti Carrettiera to Share

‘‘Long Spanish lunches with friends start with tapas before we move onto paella”.

There is nothing simpler – just take your pick from the suggestions and serve with thinly sliced toasts. The amount will depend on your number of guests (and their appetites!).

Cold cured meats (chorizo, salami, prosciutto, mortadella, pepperoni).

Hard cheeses (blue cheese, Manchego) Olives (kalamato, Spanish green olives) Sliced boiled eggs

taking care not to overcook any of the vegetables. Finally, fry the onion for 2 minutes then add the garlic and fry a further minute. Stir in the wine vinegar and sugar, then tip in the tomatoes along with a 400g can of chopped tomatoes and the basil, thyme leaves and bay. Return all the vegetables to the pan, season to taste, and cook for a further 5 minutes.

Transfer to a casserole dish, cover and heat in the oven at 150°C for 30 minutes. For a taste of Morocco, add a small can of drained chickpeas and 2 tsp of harrisa paste when cooking the onions.

Sicily,Italy Spaghetti Alla Carrettiera ‘‘My husband loved this spaghetti we were served in a quaint little café in Sicily – it is so simple but so tasty.’’ serves 2

2 tbsp olive oil 1 garlic clove 2 red chillies small jar of black olives 2 tbsp flat leaf parsley 200g chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp small capers Pecorino Romano or veg. equivalent 200g spaghetti 2 tbsp breadcrumbs, fried in olive oil salt to taste

METHOD Finely chop the garlic, chillies and parsley. Halve the tomatoes and remove the seeds before cutting into small cubes.

Slice the olives, removing the stones, and finely chop the washed capers.

Add the olive oil to a frying pan, add the garlic and cook a few seconds. Add the tomatoes, parsley and chillies and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the olives and capers, take off the heat and season with salt.

Boil the spaghetti in salted water as per the instructions on the packet and add to the sauce using a little cooking liquor to loosen. Pour into a large serving dish, grate over the Pecorino and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs.

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40 | living nikki legon’s cuisine

Moussaka 85g Parmesan cheese with additional for topping 2 egg yolks olive oil

Corfu, Greece Moussaka ‘‘In Corfu, we were treated to the best moussaka I have ever tasted at the home of a lovely Greek family.” serves 4

3 medium to large aubergines 3 potatoes 1 large onion 2 garlic cloves 325g minced lamb 325g minced veal or beef 3 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp tomato paste 260g tomato sauce 120ml red wine 1 bay leaf 1 tsp salt ½ tsp black pepper ½ tsp cinnamon 1 tsp dried thyme For the bÉchamel sauce 120g butter 120g flour 1 litre milk ½ tsp nutmeg

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METHOD Preheat oven to 180°C. To start, prepare the vegetables.

Cut the aubergines into 1 cm thick slices. Peel the potatoes and slice very thinly. Coat all the slices in oil, lay on a baking dish and cook for 30 minutes until golden.

In a bowl, mix the meats and season.

Heat a little olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the chopped onions and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, add the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes more. Add the meat and cook, stirring until the beef is no longer pink.

Season with salt and pepper, cinnamon and thyme. Stir well, add the tomato paste, tomato sauce, red wine and bay leaf. Stir well and bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 1 hour.

Remove from the heat and set aside.

For the béchamel sauce, heat the milk.

In a pan, melt the butter, add the flour and beat for two minutes to cook out the flour flavour. Gradually add the hot milk, whisking continuously, until a smooth paste is formed. Remove from the heat and add a pinch of salt, black pepper, nutmeg, Parmesan and the two egg yolks. Whisk until smooth.

To assemble the moussaka, add 5 tbsp of the béchamel to the meat and stir to combine. In a 33 x 22cm ovenproof dish with high sides, layer the potatoes in the bottom of the dish, then half of the aubergines, pour the meat mixture over, spreading evenly. Layer the remaining eggplants and pour the béchamel over. Grate the remaining Parmesan on top. Bake for 40 to 50 minutes or until golden brown.

Grilled Portuguese Sardines ‘‘Arriving in Portimão the first smells that greeted us were the freshly caught sardines grilled whole and served with boiled potatoes. Delicious!’’ serves 4

4 to 6 sardines per person, depending upon the size Maldon salt 3 tbsp of chopped rosemary 12 slices of toast For the Garlic butter 100g butter 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 tsp parsley, finely chopped METHOD To gut the sardines, using a sharp knife make a slit in the belly of the sardine and pull the intestines out. Rinse in cold water and dry on paper towels.

In a large bowl add the olive oil, salt and rosemary. Place all the sardines in the bowl and stir to coat in the oil, leave for 30 minutes in the fridge.

Grill the toast.

For the garlic butter, stir the garlic and parsley together and combine with the butter in a bowl.

Season with a little salt and black pepper. Butter your toast.

Heat a barbecue or griddle pan until hot and cook the sardines until caramelised and charred. Serve on the toast with a wedge of lemon and buttered new potatoes with parsley.

Grilled Portuguese Sardines

living nikki legon’s cuisine | 41

Panzanella ‘‘This takes me back to my favourite holiday destination.

I had this dish in Siena in the Piazza del Campo – an ideal dish for a hot day.’’ serves 4

500g stale bread cut into chunks 5 tbsp olive oil 1kg mixed ripe tomatoes, cut into chunks 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 medium cloves of garlic, crushed ½ tsp Dijon mustard 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 5 tbsp olive oil 1 cucumber, thickly sliced (optional) 1 red onion, sliced thinly salt and pepper to taste

bunch of basil, leaves picked and torn into pieces METHOD Preheat oven to 150°C. Put the bread into a large bowl and toss with 5 tbsp olive oil. Place the bread onto a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes until crisp and golden.

While the bread is baking, place the chunks of tomato into a colander over a bowl and sprinkle with salt to draw out the juices for 15 minutes.

Add the chopped shallot and crushed garlic to the tomato juice with the Dijon mustard and white wine vinegar. Using a small whisk, whisk constantly and drizzle in 5 tbsp olive oil. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Mix the tomato chunks, baked bread, sliced onion, cucumber and basil.

Pour over the dressing and toss altogether.

Panzanella

Portimao, Portugal

Siena, Italy

www.hotel-valdevienne.com Join us, Melanie and Jean-Christophe, at our delightful Hotel de Charme on the banks of the Vienne. Relax in our outdoor, heated swimming pool and our on-site restaurant open to guests (and friends) for dinner Mon-Sat (7-9pm, reservation recommended). Daily Menu du Jour featuring regional specialities. Mon-Thu: 3-course meal 22€, Fri & Sat: 25€ 1 hour from Poitiers, close to Le Vigeant race track.

Event venue hosting up to 44 people - weddings / meetings and more.

Welcome drink offered to all guests booking through LIVING!

Port de Salles 86150 Le Vigeant | Tel: 05 49 48 27 27 contact@hotel-restaurant-valdevienne.com

A warm welcome awaits you …….

Come and discover the Hotel Restaurant Karina, set in a haven of greenery, just 3km from Jarnac in the beautiful Charentaise countryside.

Enjoy dining by the open fire in winter or on the terrace in fine weather with a choice of à la carte or fixed menus.

In our bar, you will find the original copper alembic and here you can relax with an aperitif.

Join us for fish and chips on Fridays - lunch or dinner.

We cater for special group occasions, call for more information See our menus on our website www.hotelkarina.net | info@hotelkarina.net 05 45 36 26 26 Subscribe today > see page 5 |for info

42 | living nikki legon’s cuisine

© Innsbruck Tourismus

breadcrumbs to coat clarified butter or sunflower oil 2 lemons, halved

Wiener Schnitzel ‘‘On skiing holidays in Austria we would stop at a favourite restaurant and this was always on the menu.’’ serves 4

ruck, Austria Heiligwasser, Innsb Black Forest Gâteau ‘‘This takes me back many years to Germany but I will always remember the beautiful tea shop where I first tasted Black Forest Gâteau!’’

6 medium eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 250g golden caster sugar 50g cocoa powder 100g plain flour 150g unsalted butter melted and cooled 100g dark chocolate, grated 3 tbsp cherry jam 40 pitted black or red cherries soaked in kirsch For the syrup 175g golden caster sugar 2 tbsp kirsch For the kirsch cream 750ml whipping cream 75g golden caster sugar 2 tsp vanilla extract 3 tbsp kirsch method Preheat oven to 180°C.

4 veal cutlets (or substitute with chicken or pork if you prefer) plain flour to coat ½ tsp salt 2 large eggs, beaten

You will need 3 x 22cm cake tins.

Line the cake tin bases with baking paper and brush with a little melted butter.

For the sponges, in a large bowl, whisk the eggs, vanilla and sugar together using an electric hand whisk until thick and the whisk leaves a trail.

This will take about 10 minutes.

Sift the cocoa powder and flour together, then fold in. Stir in the melted butter.

Divide the cake mixture between the tins and bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until springy to the touch.

Cool in the tins for 5 minutes, then turn out on to a rack to cool completely.

To make the syrup, put 200ml of water and the sugar in a pan, bring to the boil for 5 minutes. Leave to cool before stirring in the kirsch.

To make the cream, whip the cream and sugar to firm peaks then fold in the vanilla and kirsch.

To assemble the cake, level the tops of the sponges using a sharp knife. Place a little cream on the serving plate and secure one of the sponges on top. Brush the sponge with the syrup, then spread over the cherry jam and top with cream.

Sandwich together with the second sponge and brush again with the syrup.

METHOD Pound the veal cutlets between layers of strong film to about 0.5cm in thickness.

Set up three dishes, blend the salt into the flour and place into the first dish, add the beaten eggs to the second dish and breadcrumbs in the third dish.

In a large non-stick frying-pan add enough clarified butter so the schnitzel will swim freely in the oil - you can add a little sunflower oil to top it up if needed. Heat the oil until it hisses and bubbles when some crumbs are added to it. Fry the schintzel for 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown, lowering the heat if you feel it is cooking too quickly.

Turn and cook the other side to golden brown, taking care not to pierce the coating. Serve with lemon, boiled parsley potatoes or salad.

Spread over a layer of kirsch cream about 1cm deep, then cover with cherries reserving 12 for decoration.

Spread a little more cream over the cherries, then top with the final sponge.

Turn this one upside down to give an even flat top. Brush with syrup and top with cream, spreading down the sides of the cake. With the remaining cream, fill a piping bag fitted with a large star nozzle. Pipe 12 swirls around the top of the cake and place a cherry on top of each. Sprinkle the grated chocolate into the centre of the cake.

Nikki Legon is the chef and owner of the Hotel Restaurant Karina in Les Métairies, just outside Jarnac in Charente. She and her husband Austin have transformed an old cognac distillery into a luxury 10-bedroom hotel and restaurant. For more information: www.hotelkarina.net

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Black Forest Gâteau

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Grand Cru vineyard, Château Lagrézette, Caillac (46)

44 | living wine

Dom Pérignon statue, Épernay, Champagne-Ardenne

Grands Crus & Classés

of France

L

ast time we talked about Saint-Émilion wines, their Grand Cru appellation as well as the Premier and Grands Crus Classés of Saint-Émilion. Grands Crus and Classés can be confusing as they are applied in different ways in different regions, and even within a single region, as is the case in Bordeaux.

The Grand Cru concept

A ‘Grand Cru’ is a regional wine classification designating a vineyard with a history and a reputation for producing great wines. It is usually the classification of a vineyard’s quality potential rather than the quality of individual wines.

The Grand Cru concept has been applied differently across the four regions in France where we traditionally find Grands Crus – namely Bordeaux, Burgundy, Alsace and Champagne.

Bordeaux is the most famous of the Grands Crus because of the well-publicised classification of the left bank vineyards in 1855, as requested

by Napoleon III, but Burgundy was the first to apply the concept of Grand Cru vineyards back in medieval times.

The idea of Grands Crus is very ancient; there is proof that the

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‘‘ ‘‘

In this issue our wine expert Caro Feely dives a little deeper into an arcane world

Romans classified their best vineyards more than two millennia ago.

The Bordeaux Grand Cru & Classé Systems The Grand Cru classification of the Left Bank of Bordeaux in 1855 defined the best red wines of the Médoc (and one outsider) and the top dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac. Saint-Émilion winegrowers, on the Right Bank, also renowned for their quality, introduced theirs in 1955. The 1855 classification was cast in stone, never to be reviewed, save for one instance, while the Saint-Émilion classification is reviewed every ten years.

The 1855 classification was based primarily on prices achieved by chateaux in the years running up to 1855, thus it is now a little out of date.

For example, some Fifth Grands Crus Classés (e.g. Pontet Canet or Lynch

Bages) achieve prices akin to Second Grands Crus Classés. But regular reviews of classifications cause their own problems, as we saw in the SaintÉmilion’s 2006 classification court case.

Another part of Bordeaux, Graves had their classification finalised in 1959 and it has not changed since. It is the only area of Bordeaux to offer both white and red Grands Crus Classés. Six estates have the classification for both colours.

What sets the Bordeaux classifications apart from the likes of Burgundy is that the property classified can, within reason, request to add vineyard land to its holdings, and they will usually be allowed to be included in the Grand Cru Classé.

Champagne

The classification of Champagne is based on villages rather than specific vineyards. The Échelle des Crus (the growth ladder) system for scoring Champagne villages was a 1-100 point scale; the lowest villages are rated at 80 and there is nothing below that. Premiers Crus villages are rated between 90 and 99, while the Grand Crus are all 100. There are 17 villages that are Grand Cru, representing about 9% of the planted vineyard land in Champagne.

One of the world’s most expensive bottles of wine; Château Lafitte 1787

Alsace

Alsace AOC Grand Cru was conceived in 1975 and has had numerous revisions. All wines are white and must be of the Alsace noble varieties: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer. Most are single varietal, but a few are allowed to produce blends.

Burgundy

In Burgundy the original Grand Cru system was developed by Cistercian Monks in medieval times but the Burgundy Crus were only codified in 1936 with the installation of the AOC system. The term Grand Cru is the highest level of classification of AOC

living wine | 45

wines from Burgundy and the level below it is Premier Cru. In Burgundy it is the vineyard land that has the Cru status rather than the chateau or winemaking entity, so many winegrowers can own pieces of the same named Cru vineyard.

Join Caro for a Grand Cru Classé tour, stretch your wine world with a 3-day course on French wine (all year round) or go further with wines of the world on the WSET Level 2 from 4-6 November 2021, see: www. frenchwineadventures.com. Château Feely, a biodynamic and organic wine estate, offers accommodation, wine tours, vineyard walks : www. chateaufeely.com. For questions or a wine theme suggestion get in touch at caro@chateaufeely.com.

The Feelys’ adventures are the subject of Caro’s book series; ‘Grape Expectations’, ‘Saving Our Skins’ and the latest ‘Glass Half Full’.

Grands Crus and Grands Crus Classés, particularly old and rare vintages, can reach astounding sums.

Such valuable drink is inevitably the target of fraud. For an interesting take on the subject I recommend reading ‘The Billionaire’s Vinegar’ – a fascinating exposé. Here’s to a fabulous autumn with great books and great wines!

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Changing Places Born in Cognac on the banks of the Charente, François I apparently declared the river ‘le plus joli ruisseau de mon royaume...”. Six centuries later, while watching dippers and kingfishers skim the surface of a particularly idyllic stretch at Verteuil, just a few meanders south of the market town of Ruffec, you can still see why. Here the river is spanned by two bridges, one of which once carried rail traffic between Exideuil and Roumazières-Loubert, and whose track-bed has now become a dedicated cycle path. The second, more familiar crossing is a road bridge which surprises visitors with startling views of the vast Château de Verteuil, owned since around 1080 by generations of the La Rochefoucauld family. Prior to the 14th century the chateau was of great strategic importance, since the now shallow river below was navigable, not only by commercial traffic but also military forces.

As a result, the chateau suffered repeatedly during major conflicts, each attack being followed by extensive reconstruction.

The unashamedly romantic style we see today was largely the result of renovations

following the Bourbon Restoration of 1815, and in 1966 the site was awarded Monument Historique status.

On the riverbank below are a weir, a lavoir and a 17th century water mill, restored to full working order and now providing flour for freshly baked bread sold in the mill’s boulangerie and riverside restaurant. Beyond the bridge lies the former Couvent des Cordeliers, founded in 1471

by Jean de la Rochefoucauld and occupied

by Franciscan monks until 1793. Further on, set high above the opposite bank (la rive droite), is the outline of the 12th century église Saint-Médard, a former priory whose claim to fame is an ornate polychrome monument sculpted during the 16th century. On the riverbank itself there’s a shady picnic area set between another lavoir and a footbridge to some landscaped parkland just across the river.

Perhaps mercifully, the old tanneries which once operated nearby are long gone, but the imposing 15th century Sénéchalerie survives, complete with many Renaissance features, in Rue du Baril. As for modern businesses and services, you’ll find a bistro, a wine

verteuil-surcharente (16)

We visit a riverside village with a fairytale chateau and lots of character bar, several restaurants, a pharmacy, an elementary school, hair salon, veterinary and cultural centres, a brocante dealer, a stonemason plus a choice of chambres d’hôtes, not to mention a floodlit football pitch. Come here on Sunday morning and you’ll find a well-supported colourful traditional market in Place du Marché.

Making connections Distances/drive-times by road from 16510 Verteuil-sur-Charente Ruffec: 6km/8min Angoulême: 41km/33min Saint-Jean-d’Angély: 70km/1hr14min Niort: 74km/1hr 13min Saintes: 83km/1hr 29min Rochefort: 111km/1hr49min Bordeaux: 157km/1hr 50min Limoges: 95km/1hr 24min TGV & TER rail services: The Gare SNCF de Ruffec is served by TER Nouvelle-Aquitaine services to Angoulême & Poitiers , for TGV connections to Niort, La Rochelle, Royan, Bordeaux, Bayonne, Limoges, Tours, Paris, etc.

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www.agence-eleonor.com Agence Eleonor Estate Agency 36-38 rue du Temple, 24500 EYMET T: 05 53 27 83 45 info@agence-eleonor.com Eymet, Villeréal, St.-Cyprien, Monpazier, Bergerac, Lalinde, and Issigeac

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Millac (86). In village with shops, renovated 3-bed semi-detached house. Elec heating, mains, garage, adjoining land, all on 851m2.

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Ref: 9501-MO: Sauveterre La Lemance 341,250€ HAI A perfect example of modern design with a subtle traditional touch. This beautiful 4 bedroom house is located in a wooded and quiet area, with open views onto the countryside. The house offers bright, large rooms, south facing windows & doors and terrace overlooking the 6x10 swimming pool.

Taux d’honoraires 16250€ (5%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur. Classe Energie: Vierge. Classe Climat: Vierge

44 000€ HAI

(40 000€ + 10% fee payable by buyer)

Ref. 34262

Nr Confolens (16). Ideal 2nd home. 2-bed semi-detached with usable attic & store room, adjoining courtyard of approx. 23m2.

Classe Energie n/a Classe Climate n/a

55 000€ HAI

(50 000€ + 10% fee payable by buyer)

Ref. 34196

Confolens (16). 3 semi-detached houses, habitable 2-bed with 2 housea to renovate.

Attic, courtyard, mains, garden, set on 1011m2.

Classe Energie n/a Classe Climate n/a

Ref: 9476-EY: Eymet 598,500€ HAI This beautiful 6 bedroom watermill is located in the countryside, 500 metres from a lake.

The house is full of character, and set in 5.5 hectares of land. The property also includes a swimming pool, workshop and a gite/studio.

Taux d’honoraires 28500€ (5%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur. Classe Energie: B. Classe Climat: D

113 400€ HAI

(105 000€ + 8% fee payable by buyer)

Ref. 34263

Pressac (86). Busy village with shops. Charming, renovated 1-bed house. Kitchen, 3 rooms, mains, terrace, barn, land set on 614m2.

Classe Energie D Classe Climate A

112 500€ HAI

(104 200€ + 8% fee payable by buyer)

Ref. 34261

St Laurent de Ceris (16). Two 2-bed houses with outbuildings in village, ideal for gites.

Separate plot on river bank, all set 1679m2.

Classe Energie C Classe Climate A

3, place de la Liberté, 16500 Confolens Tel: 05 45 85 45 65 contact@sovimo.com

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Ref: 9031-VI: Castillonnes 86,400€ HAI Charming one bedroom stone house, fully renovated and offering an open plan equipped kitchen / living-room / dining-room on the ground floor, with a lovely private garden.

Perfect place to escape from it all!

Taux d’honoraires 6400€ (8%) inclus à la charge de l’acquéreur. Classe Energie: Vierge. Classe Climat: Vierge

50 | living in the garden Paul Gauguin: ‘Bouquet of Peonies On A Musical Score’, 1986

in the garden

Petal Power We celebrate the far from humble peony – one of the highlights of early summer in the garden.

Colours include peach and coral

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living in the garden | 51 New hybrids expand our choices

T

hanks to our fortunate combination of a favourable, sunny climate and fertile soil there’s no shortage of contenders for the Ultimate Bloom title in our gardens, which awaken from their winter slumbers with a veritable explosion of colour, raising our spirits and heralding the return of another summer. Our senses are assailed by a succession of sights and sometimes scents, as roses, wisteria and fruit blossom compete with rhododendrons, camellias and others, but few individual plants pack quite such overwhelming visual firepower as our friends the peonies. They therefore make a highly attractive addition to our gardens (although don’t assume that the ravishing beauty which stole your heart

at the garden centre will necessarily have been native to France).

So, what exactly are we dealing with? Well, the peony (or paeony) is a flowering plant in the genus Paeonia – the sole genus in the family Paeoniaceae, in fact. Most of what we encounter are herbaceous perennial plants or ’pivoines herbacées’ which, once established, typically grow to around 1 metre in height, while the other main group is what we know as tree peonies, or ‘pivoines arbustives’ – long-lived woody shrubs with the potential to reach 3.5 metres or more, with a significant spread. Best to give them some elbow-room, then.

The plants turn out to have a significant global presence: between them Asia, Central and Southern

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Charles Rennie Mackintosh: ‘Peonies’, c 1920

Europe and North America are home to nearly 40 types of native peonies.

They also have a surprisingly long and fascinating history, the seed pods of the Chinese herbaceous perennial common peony (Paeonia lactiflora) having been used medicinally in China prior to the 7th century, when they became prized for their ornamental qualities and were placed under Imperial protection. As the Emperor’s gardeners began creating ever more showy blooms they were celebrated in Imperial works of art such as tapestries, silks and porcelain.

A century or so later peonies found their way to Japan when Chinese traders began exchanging valuable roots of the plants for other commodities.

Closer to home, several varieties of

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52 | living in the garden Tree Peony (Paeonia x Suffruticosa)

Springtime re-awakening

for more cartoons by stig see www.artisart.com

the native European common peony (Paeonia officinalis) were recorded as being used medicinally during the 15th century, and were introduced to Britain a century or so later. Before long the striking herbaceous double crimson variety became widely planted in more important estate gardens.

Opinion is divided as to the precise number of native species which have been identified, but the current best guess is around 33. What they have in

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common are compound, deeply-lobed leaves and large, often fragrant flowers, whose colours encompass purples, pinks, reds, yellows and white, all of which appear during late spring or early summer, typically blooming for just 7–10 days. During the mid-20th century tree and herbaceous peonies were joined by ‘intersectional’ hybrids, the result of successfully crossing the two.

As for the tree peonies (Paeonia suffruticosa), perhaps the first example was brought to England by the British East India Company in 1789 for botanist Sir Joseph Banks, who planted it in Kew Gardens. Many of the European varieties imported around this time came via France, while discoveries made by 19th century explorers prompted more widespread cultivation in European gardens of both herbaceous and tree peonies from the Far East.

By the late-1800s French plant breeders were producing new hybrids, the results of which would inspire Impressionist painters such as Gauguin, Monet and Renoir. Peonies also featured in works

by Art Nouveau designer and architect

Charles Rennie Mackintosh.

Today the plants continue to inspire us, with a bewildering choice of hundreds of cultivars. Position-wise, most seem perfectly happy in direct sun or partial shade, with their roots in fertile, moist but well-drained soil. It’s worth bearing in mind, however, that they do need some time to become well established and give their best. In the case of herbaceous varieties, once they get their roots down your patience will be rewarded year after year as more and more stems are produced, each bearing bigger and better flowers. With that in mind, try not to disturb them, particularly since once they die down in autumn they leave no trace of their presence until red shoots re-emerge in springtime. As they power their way back up, healthy plants should be self-supporting although the sheer size and weight of the flowers they bear means they might require some canes for support. That’s particularly true of big, blousy doubles like ‘Sarah Bernhardt’, a best-selling pastel pink hybrid favoured by the cut-flower trade (the Netherlands

ACROSS: 4. Tis 7. Chandler 8. Trip 9. Browning 10. King 11. Graves 14. Cooper 15. Ambler 17. Butler 19. Zola 20. Galloway 23. Dahl 24. Trollope 25. Ads Down: 1. Char 2. Snow 3. Allies 4. Tragic 5. Stake-out 6. Viennese 9. Beg 12. Rambotan 13. Valhalla 16. Rights 7. Bellow 18. Ray 21. Oily 22. Alps Theme: Writers

Paeonia Lactiflora

living in the garden | 53 Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s painting of ‘Peonies’, c 1880

Red stamens are rare

alone producing some 20 million stems annually). If, however, you prefer a single then a popular choice is the aptly-named ‘Bowl Of Beauty’, whose tight ball of pink petals opens to reveal creamy yellow stamens. Somewhere between the two are fiery, deep crimson doubles like ‘Adolphe Rousseau’, ‘Karl Rosenfield’ or ‘Highlight’.

Now we’ll consider tree peonies, whose planting requirements are similar to those of their herbaceous counterparts. If they’re grafted, ensure that the graft point is around 10-15cm below the surface of the soil (as it should be with container-grown plants). All peonies will need watering while they’re getting settled in, but overwatering should be avoided once they’re established. Since tree peonies have completely different growth habits from herbaceous plants, you’ll need to consider a spot in the garden where yours has plenty of elbow room. That said, don’t be tempted to place them in or near a spot previously occupied by a tree, since honey fungus spores in the soil could threaten the plants.

As regards ongoing care, once established tree peonies can be quite energetic, and since their woody stems don’t die back you’ll probably want to prune them from time to time to keep them in shape. They’ll also appreciate feeding, to replenish the reserves they’ve depleted by both growth and flowering.

Be aware that the plants are deciduous, although the complex leaf forms of varieties like Paeonia lutea ludlowii will continue to provide decorative value long after the flowering is over.

If you’re now sold on the idea of adding a tree or herbaceous peony to your garden then it’s a good idea to look carefully at the many varieties available. You’ll find that plants from specialist growers often appear pricey, but a good-sized tree peony can be four or five years old by the time you buy it.

Remember, too, that you’ll be making a long-term investment, since the plants are noted for their extreme longevity. In fact, it’s been said that most tree peonies are likely to outlive those who plant them.

Now that’s what I call real value.

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Ant Alert?

Peonies seem to be irresistible to ants, who don’t harm the plants but make straight for the nectar which forms on the outer surface of the flower buds. Exactly why it does so is uncertain, since before the flowers open it’s obviously not going to have any effect on pollination. One theory is that having a few ants around might just make the buds less attractive to potential pests, in which case producing an ant-attracting nectar could be an interesting example of plant evolution.

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55

New! Sunday market at Verteuil

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Swimming pool & garden maintenance.

Office: 05 53 07 52 71 (9 to 18.00) Mobile: 06 31 31 06 76 / 06 70 39 83 96 arcencielnettoyage24@gmail.com

Siret: 813 442 860 00017

Call Sally on 07 80 00 51 65 smcdesigns2@outlook.com Based 16140, can post

Freemasons

Did you know?

There are Englishspeaking lodges in France.

Our lodge in Cognac (16) meets 6 times a year.

If you would like to find out more, email: david.brieger@orange.fr Freemasonry in France

Shops, Cleaning, Assos

ARC EN CIEL Nettoyage Professionnel Large selection of home fabrics, made-to-measure curtains, bedlinen, wallpaper & paint.

Friendly English-speaking staff in a cosy atmosphere!

Tues to Fri 9h-12h30 & 14h-18h30 Sat 9h-12h30 &14h-18h comptoirdecodangely www.comptoirdecodangely.com

Ideal for presents

Wellbeing, Art

RENAISSANCE - hair, beauty, nails

Custom framing for arts, crafts & memorabilia

SIRET: 853 256 691 00017

Siret: 509 861 902 00013

OAK SIGNS Made to measure, personalised signs on 20mm thick oak Inlaid uppercase lettering 38 - 58 - 80mm tall Edge beading Teak oiled/lacquered for internal or external use

Alcoholics Anonymous

www.aafrance.net

Associations

If you, or someone you know, has a drinking problem, join one of the English-speaking AA meetings across the south west of France.

Alcoholics Anonymous is a Fellowship of men and women who share their experience, strength and hope with each other so that they may solve their common problem and help others recover from alcoholism.

Our primary purpose is to stay sober and help others achieve sobriety.

Tel: Angela on 05 49 87 79 09 or Roger on 05 55 76 22 65

56

Samantha Ancell is our English member of staff with over 25 years’ experience in insurance including 13 years with AVIVA France. Samantha can explain the differences between French and English insurances, she will provide translations on request, and manages all your enquiries from start to finish, including any claims.

Call us now to review your insurances and hopefully save you money.

Agences Slimane AOUADI

POITIERS SUD

SAUZÉ-VAUSSAIS

RUFFEC

16 rue Henri Sainte Claire, Déville, 86000 Poitiers

2 route de Montalambert, Site commercial SuperU 79190 Sauzé-Vaussais

3 place d’Armes 16700 Ruffec

Tel : 05 49 31 13 30 E: aouadi-slimane@aviva-assurances.com

Tel : 05 49 07 61 10 E: sauze-vaussais@aviva-assurances.com

Tel : 05 45 31 01 51 E: ruffec@aviva-assurances.com

ORIAS N° 15006012

AVIVA offers Motor, House and Contents, Health, Business Liability and Business Premises Insurance as well as Life Insurance and Savings products. Ask for free, no obligation quotes.

Apartment for Private Sale - €69 950 Skiing 1600m-2400m Purpose built ski appt. at 1650m over 2 floors, with balcony Ideal for couple with 2 younger children Winter-summer / all year round Living + rental possibility. Ski lockers + rooms for cycles etc.

20 mins to Andorra + 90 mins to Med. 2.5 hrs to Barcelona Ski resort chair lift walkable as is vast, scenic national park

Regular trips throughout Europe Services tailored to your needs DEFRA Type 2 licensed, custom built vans

www.gofetch-ltd.com

“READY TO GO” in Residence Fontfrede, rue Coume d’Or Further info from anthonyandrews15@hotmail.com

gofetchltd@hotmail.co.uk T: +44 (0)7855 401 102 T: +44 (0)1656 670 856

Guest LIME TREE KENNELS Dog Home

Siret: 822 175 527 0016

Anita Frayling - Le Baillat, 16220 Rouzede T: 05 45 66 14 62 E: anita.limetreekennels@gmail.com

For those of you that don't already know us, we are a purpose-built kennels with a large secure paddock area where dogs can run free and play while having their 2 walks per day on or off the lead.

Large family kennels are available.

You are welcome to call if you have any questions or would like to visit the kennels.

Lime Tree Kennels 15 mins from La Rochefoucauld & 20 mins from Rochechouart

Insurance, Help & Advice

The UK’s Premium Pet Transport Company

(not kennels)

Your dog(s) looked after indoors at our country home with a safe enclosed garden area. Walked twice a day in our woods and surrounding fields.

Must be able to socialise with other dogs.

Free introductory trial: am or pm Nr. Châteauneuf-La-Foret, Linards 30 mins from Limoges airport 20€ per night/10€ per half day Please email first to waggingtails87@hotmail.com Siret: 879 092 393

Animal Care, Bike Hire

Real Estate, Animal Care

PORTE-PUYMORENS (66760 PYRENEES ORIENTALES) “L’EXCEPTION NATURELLE”

Call Jane on 05 55 00 34 79 or 06 18 58 93 88 or Emily 06 71 15 15 65

Insurance and asset management advice in English Hello, my name is Isabelle Want. For the past 9 years, I have been working for Allianz as an asset manager. Being married to an Englishman and having lived in the UK for 8 years gives me a better insight into what British people are experiencing and what they need. Being French and born in the Charente has enabled me to offer some answers.

I am, as always, available for any free advice on the following subjects: - INHERITANCE LAW - who inherits, how much are death duties, what solutions exist - TAXES - everybody’s fear! Annual tax forms in May, etc.

- INVESTMENTS - what is available, what rate, etc.

- LIFE INSURANCE - how to protect your loved ones - FUNERAL COVER - preparing for the inevitable, unfortunately!

- TOP UP HEALTH INSURANCE - why you need it and how much it is - INSURANCES - get a free quote to see if you can save money We also have a dedicated bilingual person to deal with claims. And, finally, we have an English website with all sorts of useful information and tips on all of the above subjects.

Contact Isabelle directly Mobile: 06 17 30 39 11

05 45 36 19 09

Email: isabelle.want@bh-assurances.fr

These local businesses are waiting for your call!

BH Assurances 22 rue Jean Jaures 16700 Ruffec tel : 05 45 31 01 61

10 bld du 8 mai 1945 16110 La Rochefoucauld tel : 05 45 63 54 31 102 ave de la République 16260 Chasseneuil sur Bonnieure tel : 05 45 39 51 47 N° ORIAS : 07020908

www.bh-assurances.fr

57

Garden Services Pool Care Gîte Services Admin Assistance Check out our website for more information about all our services 05.45.25.05.37 | www.charenteassistance.fr English Speaking

MOTOR, HOUSE, BUSINESS, TRAVEL MEDICAL insurance: top up and for Residency Permits

pennym.gsar@orange.fr G.S.A.R. 05 53 40 15 71

Siret N°48825664500018

Translation Services

For all your insurance needs in France

Professional administrative HelP

Special discount for new owners - 50% off the first year

Translations, Health, Tax, Legal Paperwork, Telephone Calls, Property, Banking, Business Services, Residency

Fully comprehensive covers at competitive prices and all explained in ENGLISH. We respond quickly to enquiries and in the case of accidents or claims, we are here to help.

Offices at Champdeniers and St Pardoux (79). Come and visit us.

Val Assist provides clear explanations about the French system, advice on the best way to sort out problems and generally acts for people on their behalf in French.

I CAN HELP WITH RESIDENCY (wherever you live in France)

Find out more: www.valassist.com Valérie PATARD 1, rue Basse 85370 Mouzeuil-Saint-Martin Tel: +33 (0)6 84 78 21 57 Email: contact@valassist.com

Agence Michallon Tel: 05.49.25.87.06 Corinne.michallon@mutpoitiers.fr

Insurance, Help & Advice

Ask for Corinne

We find the best insurer for you, at competitive rates

For information and quotes contact Penny

Val Assist

Orias: 07007057

INDEPENDENT BROKERS

The Fixer

Experience you need....Results you want

Personal Taxation – Carte Vitale – Carte de Séjour Business set ups - CPAM – French Administration Tax regularisation and much much more….

Help & Advice

Fluent French speaker with over 15 years professional ‘hands on’ experience assisting expats in France

Call Rick Denton now on 06 46 25 30 87 or Email: mailthefixer@gmail.com www.corporateandlegal.org

Based in Charente and covering 86, 79, 16, 17, 24 & 33 Siren: 818 390 916

KAREN JONES Chemin des Gordins, 16700 Ruffec

M: 07 80 44 37 00

Comprehensive administration services for individuals and businesses • • • •

Tax returns Business set up, Book keeping courses Carte Vitale, Carte de Séjour, Financial Aid Translations SIRET/SIREN 510046261 00010

Contact me by email & Skype, or visit my office, location is not a problem contactsolutionsfrance@gmail.com

Expert in French Administration Business set-up Personal taxation Legal matters Phone calls & meetings Andrew Harrison

Tel: 05 46 96 44 11 askandrewnow@hotmail.com www.askandrewnow.com SIRET 453 520 298 00010

8 place Gambetta 86400 CIVRAY Office: 09.50.52.27.68 M: 06.33.11.64.05 eloisa@efficientranslations.fr www.efficientranslations.fr

Quote 'Living' to help keep this magazine free for readers

Help & Advice

solutions-france.com

HELP WITH ALL FRENCH ADMINISTRATION MATTERS Administrative Assistance & Solutions Private Individuals & Small Businesses Translator: English, French, Portuguese (cert.) & Spanish Professional Liability Insurance

Siret No 520 382 805 00049

solutions16700

HELP & ADVICE Long established service at reasonable rates Depts 16 & 17

58

Transport Services

FRANGLAIS DELIVERIES Moving In France?

ANGLO FRENCH EURO REMOVALS ‘Your French Connection’

Full & Part Loads

Weekly services to & from SW France Internal moves within France Containerised Storage Range of Packing services available Over 35 Years’ Experience

Relocations in France

FRANGLAIS DELIVERIES

Siret: 502 021 660 00019

Packing & Storage Options

Tel: 05 49 07 24 85 E: franglaisdeliveries@gmail.com

Franglais Deliveries

Full or Part Load Removals To & From France UK: +44 (0) 1237 431 393 FR: +33 (0)5 45 89 49 57 Email: info@anglofrenchmail.com

www.anglofrenchremovals.co.uk UK Registration 543 77 60 UK

lly nt ts Fu ersa xpor nv e co UK th Cars, Boats and Caravans a speciality wi

Transport Services

C J Logistics

George White European Transport Special rates to SW France 13.6m / 45ft trailer Full/Part loads Removals - Vehicles - Materials Owner Driver RHA member Tel: +44 (0)7768 867 360 Fax +44 (0)1773 570 090 Fr Mobile: +33 (0)6 23 03 85 59 enquiriesgwe@gmail.com

Transport Services, Concierge

www.georgewhiteeuropean.co.uk

Full or part loads undertaken - a box to a full removal Full European coverage Secure storage available in France and UK UK depot available for deliveries Every item is covered by GIT and CMR insurances Full trade references available

E: cjlouch1@gmail.com Tel: 09 83 70 01 33 | Mob: 06 61 25 41 09

YOUR ONE-STOP TRANSPORT SERVICE

A family business established in 1985 offering a quality, professional service

FRANKLINS REMOVALS Packing services Full/part loads to and from the UK Vehicles transported • Containerised storage Competitive prices • Transit /storage insurance Call Stephen or Ben Franklin on 0044 121 353 7263 or email sales@franklinsremovals.co.uk

www.franklinsremovals.co.uk

Furniture for France Quality UK furniture direct to your door in France Furniture for your bedrooms, dining room and lounge From sofas to mattresses, wardrobes to dining tables, all just one phone call away Look at our website to see the latest ranges available 20 years’ experience & great customer service

fff

Tel: +44 7845 272 242 Email: info@furnitureforfrance.co.uk www.furnitureforfrance.co.uk

These local businesses are waiting for your call!

59

F o r Po o l s • Installation • Renovation • Cleaning and Maintenance

Agent and installer for several rectangular & shaped pools including Seablue & Astral Pools

• Roofs

t: +33 (0) 549 290135 t: +33 (0) 785 372144

• Fencing • Blockwork

SIRET 47994761600021

www.poolsbyjonathan.com phone 0549840362 mobile 0622361056

enquiries@rjcpoolservices.com

• Summerhouses

FRIENDLY PROFESSIONAL SERVICE Competitive prices, try me for a quote Terracing and landscaping service also available ALL WORK GUARANTEED

rjcpoolservices.com

• Terraces & Patios

• Pointing

Based near Sauzé-Vaussais (79) Full Décennale Insurance siret: 897 609 293

• Rendering • Outside Rooms

POOL MAINTENANCE in any condition - dans n’importe quel état Call Jon on 05 49 87 29 71 E: jon@energic.info

BRICO16 TRADE PAINTS

Official Crown Paints distributor South West France • • • • •

colour matching and mixing trade & DIY products and decorating sundries exterior paints - masonry, shutters, windows... interior paints - emulsions, satin, gloss... specialist primers & complete technical advice

Open Mon-Fri: 08h30 - 12h00 & 14h00 - 17h30

Brico16 Trade Paints, Chez Maugarny, 16460 VENTOUSE T: 05 45 95 45 36 M: 06 16 25 30 55 E: martin@brico16.com btpcrownpaints www.btpcrownpaints.com

Pools, Vintage Tractors

I am looking for old Deutz tractors: 1936-1960 F1M 414, F1L 514 & F2L 514

05 45 25 05 37 www.charenteassistance.fr

Pools

For Outside Living

POOLS BY JONATHAN

60

HOME SWEET (COLOURFUL?) HOME It would be fair to say that most of us have spent much more time this year at home than normal....and for many of us the enforced lockdown gave us the opportunity to give our homes a little TLC. We ourselves did plenty of painting & decorating, especially during the early weeks, and decided to use strong, bold colours - not our normal style but perhaps it was a reaction to the situation we were in....an unconscious decision to lift the spirits!

We are slowly seeing some more colour coming back into carpets too....not everything has to be grey or beige!

Look at these 2 of our suppliers – Adam Carpets & Westex Carpets – literally hundreds of colours across their ranges, all available anywhere in France.

If you want to see samples of these, or any other examples, give us a call and we’ll make a free, no obligation visit.

Makes yours a HOME SWEET (COLOURFUL?) HOME this year!

jonthecarpetman

E: jonthecarpetman@gmail.com 09 63 56 23 10 / 06 42 19 82 12

Frapa

IT Service & Support

PM CARPETS & FLOORING

For all your flooring needs

Siret 81968203000013

www.pmcarpetsandflooring.com

Contact Nick on email: nickthesweep@gmail.com or T. 05 45 71 33 36

Renovating your next property?

Dreaming of a new build?

Let me help you.

• Dossiers prepared • Permis de construire • Déclaration préalables Siret: 49377035800015

05 53 52 36 05

lavieilleabbaye@orange.fr Peter Latus BA(Hons)

L’Atelier de Fer Fraser W. Eade

Forgeix, 87200 Saint Junien

05 55 71 41 75

frasereade87@gmail.com www.latelierdefer.com Siret: 512 945 874 00018

Windows, OSx/iOS, Linux, Android Website Construction & Maintenance All Departments: Remote or On-Site Data Privacy Guaranteed frapaconsultants@gmail.com www.frapaconsultants.com 06 29 61 47 88 Siret: 889 641 726 00019

HAVE YOUR SHUTTERS SEEN BETTER DAYS?

Ian Dickinson BSc (Hons)

Wooden shutters made, restored and spray painted Metal shutters sandblasted Exterior / Interior walls airless spray-painted

ID Planning & Design Planning and designs for permis de construire and déclaration préalables for extensions, renovations, conversions and new builds.

Over 30 years’ experience All areas covered Contact Alan Tel 05 45 21 72 01 Mobile 07 80 00 51 65 amccontracts2@gmail.com

Departments: 16, 17, 24, 79, 86 & 87 Siret: 492 277 918 00024

Tel: 05.46.98.22.01 Mob:

06.02.33.90.58

E: iancdickinson1960@gmail.com

Jeff’s Metalwork

www.jeffsmetalwork.com

General Engineering Turning, Milling, Welding Quality & Precision Guaranteed

PCs, Networks, Laptops, Tablets, Phones

Registered with the Chambre de Métiers et de l’Artisanat

• We supply and fit a range of carpets to suit all budgets • We also fit amtico, vinyl, wood and ceramic tile • Over 25 years experience, 100% customer satisfaction • Now selling a selection of wool and mixed fibre rugs Contact Paul on 06 60 07 54 78 or 05 45 84 27 75

Computer Help & Advice Problem Solving Repair & Maintenance

• Certificates issued for every sweep • Over 10 years’ experience • Covering departments 16, 17, 79 & 86

Ornate interior / exterior designs Gates constructed / refurbished Industrial furniture General Welding ~ Over 25 year’s experience ~ Tel: 06 17 73 56 87 Mob: 07 77 83 77 10 or 0044 7917 03 02 49 jeff@jeffsmetalwork.com

LOCKED OUT?

Domestic / Commercial locks Safe cracking / Lock picking Door & window servicing Car / vehicle lockout service Free estimates No call out fee Non-destructive entry Mobile key cutting service 24/7 Will travel to all areas

ALPHA LOCKSMITHS 0780 50 16 20

kyriacosdemetriou701@gmail.com

Siret: 827 978 636 00013

Building Services

Les Rivières, 19260 TREIGNAC

Nick Wright

Architectural Drawing Service

Artisans, Plant hire

SHOWROOM ADDRESS

Chimney Sweep

Siret 823 260 450 00015

Flooring, Chimneysweep, TV, IT

www.jon-thecarpetman.com

BECK CHERRY PICKER HIRE Nacelle Telescopique

17m tracked cherry picker with IPAF operator For all exterior works: roofing, painting, tree cutting etc.

Hourly, daily or weekly rates Based in south 86, can transport as required

www.beckcherrypickerhire.com Tel: 07 84 12 44 97

E: beckcherrypickerhire@gmail.com

These local businesses are waiting for your call!

61

GARY MOORE HEATING 22 YEARS IN HEATING, 12 YEARS IN FRANCE Siret: 491827705 00022

Ò Ò Ò Ò

Installation, servicing, repairs - oil, gas, solar, solid fuel Fully qualified, fully registered, 10 year décennale insurance Currently offering FREE supply & installation of bulk propane gas tanks 30% crédit d’impôt

Tel: 05 45 29 68 73 | Mobile: 06 30 11 86 84 | Email: gary.moore@orange.fr MV Services

Imajica Joinery

Covering 79, 86, 16 & 17 Siret: 851 051 334

Mick Van Ackeren T: 07 50 63 19 37 mvservices79@gmail.com www.mvservices79.com

Plumbing Bathroom & kitchen installations Building maintenance Fully insured with over 15 years’ experience Covering dept. 16 Siret: 830691044

Contact Kai for all jobs Mob: 06 83 17 19 77 E: K2amos@gmail.com FB: @Amoshandyman16

ESTABLISHED COMPANY, CONSCIENTIOUS & RELIABLE SERVICE For a superior finish in wood, tile, plasterboard and general restoration Specialising in kitchen fitting & creative challenges

05 49 87 09 63 Siret: 48115588500017

Established reputable builder in Charente From basic changes to complete renovations, bathrooms, kitchens, floor and wall tiling, dry-lining & more Guaranteed customer satisfaction Contact me for a free no-obligation quotation Based near La Rochefoucauld, covering areas 16, 86 & 79 T: 05 45 95 44 34 or 06 98 29 76 45 E: graham.medhurst@orange.fr

SEAN THEOBALD Carpenter All elements of 1st and 2nd fix carpentry undertaken Over 35 years experience specialising in, but not limited to High-End Residential and Heritage Projects T: 07 80 53 54 11 E: seantheobald@outlook.com Based in 17240

Siret: 848 507 042 00010

Trained-Approved-Recommended

by SPANC Can you trust your installation to anyone else?

With over 30 years’ experience

Etudes  Conception  Surveys Maintenance  Service  Remedial

Tel: 06 04 14 84 86 southwestfrancefosse

Email: southwestfrancefosse@orange.fr

www.southwestfrancefosse.com Quote 'Living' to help keep this magazine free for readers

Building services, Artisans

South West France Fosse

See all our work on

Building services, Artisans

AMOS HANDYMAN

• Tube & Fitting Scaffold • Free Quotations • Fully Insured

Graham Medhurst Renovations

JAMES RICHARDSON

SCAFFOLDING

62

Siret 800 969 438 00020

JM Roofing Carpentry ~ Roofing

Clay Tile Roofs All Timberwork Metal Sheet Hangars Full 10 Year Décennale Insurance French & English Speaking Depts covered 16, 17, 24, 79, 86, 87

All Zinc Work Velux Windows Exterior Insulation T. 07 70 37 15 98 Email: jmtoitures@yahoo.com

JMToitures www.artisancentral.fr/JMToitures

Building services, Artisans

depts 79, 86 & 16

Andy Quick

The Roofing & Renovation Company Established in 2007, registered artisan with Décennale & Civile Responsabilité Insurance

Siret: 499 474 302 00035

www.building-services-france.com

E: andrewquick@orange.fr ~ T: 05 49 27 22 67

AABA ROOFING FRANCE Ecuras 16220

Assurance Décennale

Quality Roofing & Building

for you

New roofs ~ Slate and tiling Fibreglass flat roofing ~ Repairs Gutters and facias UPVC or zinc All leadwork ~ Timberwork References available

aabaroofingfrance@gmail.com 05 45 63 52 88 / 07 80 08 85 76

Siret 53210969100024

www.aabaroofingfrance.com These local businesses are waiting for your call!

63

LIOn rOUGe

UPVC windows, doors & ConserVatories sPeCialists

10 year warranTy on all products installed

all sizes, shapes & colours offered supplied & fitted to the highest standard using premium products

~ Covering south west franCe ~

www.lionrouge.eu

Tel: 05 46 70 25 87

info@lionrouge.eu

A1SL COUVERTURE

(ROOFING SERVICES)

A1SL COUVERTURE is a new French based company serving dept. 79, 86, 16, 17, 87, 85, 24 & 33 with well-established roofing experience previously based in the UK. We pride ourselves on top quality workmanship and excellent customer service.

We have built a solid reputation over 25 years in the UK and receive most of our work from customer recommendations.

WE COVER ALL ASPECTS OF ROOFING WORK FROM SMALL DOMESTIC REPAIRS, ROOF CLEANING AND LARGE NEW ROOF PROJECTS UTILIZING CLAY TILES AND SLATE; SPECIALIST IN LEAD WORK. Registered with the Repertoire des Métiers, siren: 877 636 050

All leading Brands All associated minor works, modifications and repairs also undertaken e.g.. replace Kitchen worktops, taps, toilets etc.

Dept. 16, 17

Covering 1h radius around Mareuil 24340

Mobile: + 33.(0).6.95.49.60.89 Email: contacta1slroofing@gmail.com www.a1slroofing.com

05 46 49 78 30 / 06 70 40 66 01

~ Free quotes ~ Decennial insurance

All work is fully guaranteed and we are fully insured.

Our services are available 6 days a week, no-obligation free estimate and no call-out fee up to 70km.

website: andyms.free.fr email: andyms@free.fr

07 82 19 22 37 igor.kulenovic@gmail.com

Do you have a DIY job that you are unable to do or don’t want to do?

ReIiable, Affordable Maintenance & Renovation Service

Depts 16 & 17

16100 Chateaubernard 05 45 36 46 70 / 06 72 21 80 27 lifeboatmoose@wanadoo.fr www.mmpropertymaintenance.fr

Decorating Ceramic Tiling u Dry Lining u Wooden Floors u Decking and Patios u Bathroom & Kitchens u Stone pointing u & lots more...

Adrian Butterfield

u u

Siret 482 718 640 00022

Painting & decorating services Tiling / Flooring Plasterboarding Suppliers of Crown Paints Providing a quality service since 2005 Kevin Smith

Contact John Pearson www.hmjmaintenanceservice. weebly.com E: HMJMaintenance@outlook.com M: +33 (0)6 18 42 24 49 T: +33 (0)9 81 37 43 95 Work area 79/85/49, based 79380

Do you need help with:

• • •

Odd jobs Tiling, Painting Plumbing Plastering, Rendering • Kitchen fitting, Carpentry • Sandblasting • General Maintenance Call Adrian on 05 49 69 00 24 or 06 41 55 85 35, or email: adrianbutterfield@live.com for a FREE estimate Over 20 year’s experience Siret: 843 784 638 00010

FEATURED BUSINESS

Enershop – renewable energy heating systems for your property Enershop have been installing renewable energy systems in France since 2008. Each system designed and installed is specifically for your needs,

whether your property is a new build, extension or a renovation, whether it is a cottage, chalet or château – the flexibility of our systems means there is a solution for all. We offer a free devis, with no obligation and no hard sell.

Now is the time to consider a renewable heating system. There are reduced rates of TVA available and significant tax credits (credit d’impôts) for systems installed

Tel: 07 67 04 07 53

Email: info@enershop.eu

by Enershop as we hold the QualiSol and QualiBois accreditation. Our website www.enershop. eu has lots of information on our services which include : • Solar thermal domestic hot water • Wood gasification boilers • Central and underfloor heating • Wood / Pellet boiler stoves systems • Pellet boilers • Swimming pool / hot tub • Accumulation tanks heating • Air source heat pumps

Website: www.enershop.eu

Enershop

Quote 'Living' to help keep this magazine free for readers

Building services, Artisans

M&M PROPERTY MAINTENANCE

siret:50263448800014

Siret: 789 563 392 00016

Shaun B LLOYD

Kitchens & Bathrooms from A-Z

Building services, Artisans

ANDY MS

IK-ROOFING Renovations / new builds Roof repairs Velux installation Guttering Insurance claims

64

Affordable UK Designs

Fitted Kitchens, Upvc & Aluminium Double Glazing

Free plAn, Design & costing throUghoUt soUth West FrAnce - other AreAs by ArrAngement Upvc Windows, Doors & conservatories in all colours. Aluminium and Upvc Bifold doors Made to UK Spec in French styles!

Made in the UK Fitted in France

phone: 05 49 42 99 41 Mobile: 06 63 71 09 81

Building services, Artisans

E: scott.braddock1@yahoo.com www.affordableukdesigns.com

Adrian Amos Specialist Carpenter/Joiner Bespoke Joinery & Renovations Doors - Shutters - Stairs Flooring - Kitchens

Tel 05 17 30 18 35 Mobile 06 33 85 65 66

ktaylor.renovations@gmail.com Javarzay, 79110 Chef-Boutonne

Building services, Artisans

Siren: 478 608 185 00011

ANDY MS Multi Services

Plumbing Electricity Plasterboarding Tiling Satellite dishes and Systems for the reception of UK and French TV Dept. 16,17 No Job too Small

05 46 49 78 30 / 06 70 40 66 01

website: andyms.free.fr email: andyms@free.fr

Barry Baldwin PAINTER & DECORATOR Cabinet Maker & Joiner Furniture Restoration Manufacture of staircases, doors & cupboards 16240 La Fôret de Tesse T: 05 45 30 39 85 barry.baldwin@orange.fr Covering depts 16, 79 & 86

Ambroise PRÉE

Plumbing - Heating Chimney sweeping

RGE QUALIBOIS

Full service with certificate (boiler, fuel, wood, gaz) Installation of Wood Burners Registerer RGE QUALIBOIS Fully insured with over 15 years’ experience ambroise1204@hotmail.fr Tel: 06 58 86 55 91

30km around 86400 (Saint Macoux)

English spoken

Siret: 831 980 487 00019

ADAM BLACKABY Artisan Peintre T: 05 45 98 07 25 M: 06 23 18 30 95

adamblackaby@aol.com

Siret: 508 248 747 000 18

05 45 31 14 58 / 06 63 20 24 93 adrian.luke.amos@gmail.com

Interior and exterior painting Paper hanging, tiling, flooring & dry lining

Areas 16, 17, 24, 33, 79, 86 Siret: 804476 034 00017

Jb Plumbing Kitchen & Bathroom installation Tiling Plumbing Repairs Tel: 06 29 90 24 89 E: mrbirky2@yahoo.com Based in dept 79 near Sauzé-Vaussais Fully insured Siret: 804 390 862 000 14

Siret: 441 490 992 00027

Peter Amor Electrician

Large or small projects, from new builds, total rewires (including 3 phase) to Having additional sockets/lights installed to

ELECTRICIAN Experienced, French Registered Electrician Available for all types of electrical work renovations, small works, gate automations etc.

Insured and guaranteed Areas 16, 17, 24

05 46 86 07 61

trevor.miell@btopenworld.com Siret 49376573200015

Emptying of grease traps, fosse septiques, filtre compacts & micro stations.

Cleaning & maintenance of all types of sewage treatment plants.

Conformity Inspections

Tel: 05 49 91 85 54 peter-amor@orange.fr All departments covered SIret: 480 026 560 00012

Insurance, Help & Advice

siret:50263448800014

✓ Fully equipped workshop ✓ 40 years’ experience ✓ Lots of solutions for your requirements ✓ References available

SIRET: 513 577 809 00017

These local businesses are waiting for your call!

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living music | 65

Upbeat After a shaky, tentative start it seems that we’re now back into something like our usual summer festival mode, although tailored to reflect post-pandemic measures to help keep everyone safe. In particular you’ll need to carry a mask and your Pass Sanitaire – either a printed attestation of double vaccinations or better still add them to the TousAntiCovid smartphone app. Now off to the events.

After its welcome return during July, the Département de la Vienne’s Vagabonde series of 150 free events continues throughout August, including lots of music concerts featuring locally based pro acts staged in venues both large and small: lavienne86.fr.

Classical music lovers will enjoy the Festival de la Vézère, whose 2021 programme opened in July and continues until 14 Aug. Performances embrace piano, cello, Gregorian chant and opera, staged in atmospheric settings in Corrèze such as the Château du Saillant and the Cathédrale de Tulle: festival-vezere.com.

During the first week in August the 14th Festival 1001 Notes presents classical music concerts in Limoges (87) by world-class performers: festival1001notes.com. On the coast on 1-4 Aug Royan (17) will conclude Un Violon Dans La Ville (a post-Covid replacement for Un Violon Sur Le Sable 2021) with a series of classical music concerts taking place in outdoor locations in the town: violonsurlesable.com.

From 4-27 Aug the Music de

Here they come...

With more events now confirmed, we list some of the live music highlights set to happen as we went to press.

Nouvelle-Orléans en Périgord

(MNOP) will be presenting Blues, Jazz, Métisse and Zydeco in ten concerts in venues in and around Périgueux (24): mnop.fr.

Meanwhile, at Caunay (79) on 13-15 Aug we have the Madhatter’s Wonderland Hop: madhatters wonderlandfestival.com.

On 20-22 Aug BoraFest 2021 fires up near La Villedieu (17) with a varied line-up including Ronnie Carryl Band, Brit 60s Explosion and Chitlin’ Blues Band, plus a classic car show: FB Borafest.

On 21-28 Aug the 30th Sinfonia Festival Baroque presents 21 concerts (some of them free) featuring 250 artistes, in remarkable settings in and around Périgueux, starting with a spectacular 17th century Venetian Carnival, with music, theatre, acrobatics and more: sinfonia-en-perigord. com. On 26-29 Aug in the Stade Beaublanc in Limoges the Urban Empire Festival returns after several years’ absence. Headliners include Louis Bertignac, Woodkid and Mass Hysteria: urbanempirefestival.com.

Having kicked off in July, CharenteMaritime’s Sites en Scène 2021 continues until 12 Sept in startling locations including the Château de Jonzac, the Amphithéâtre de Saintes, the Citadelle du Château d’Oléron and the historic heart of Saint-Jean d’Angély. The performances embrace music, son-et-lumière, walks and firework displays: la.charente-maritime.fr.

24-26 Sept sees the return of the

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Festival ODP Talence, a fundraising

event benefiting orphaned children of the Sapeur-Pompiers de France. The 6th edition, held just south of Bordeaux in the Parc du Château Peixotto, Talence (33) presents shows headlined by Caravan Palace, Samaka, Boulevard des Airs and Véronique Sanson: festival-odp.com.

As we reported in our previous issue, Cognac Blues Passions won’t be happening this year, but in its place we’re promised a host of smaller seated events through the summer, under the title ‘Swing tout l’été’ all will become clear soon at: www.bluespassions.com.

So, all being well, it looks as though we’ll have something like our usual lively musical summers – but keep an eye on the event websites for latest news.

66 | living Language

Pardon?

I

don’t know about you but with five years of Brexit, eighteen months of Covid restrictions and a long, wet winter, I’m ready for a few moments of happiness and joy.

No matter what else is going on in the world, those times of pure happiness are easily found in summer, and there’s a richness of language in how we describe them. I thought I’d take you through a few of my favourite French summer countryside moments just to stop and appreciate those brief but restorative times of happiness.

Even the smell of French countryside at this time of year is hugely therapeutic.

Le parfum de prunes chaudes et trop mûres, the scent of overripe warm plums that intensifies in the summer heat, les longs soirs, those long evenings where les hirondelles race across the fields and les chauves-souris begin their nightly foraging. Les sauterelles – grasshoppers – who sing from dawn to dusk; les grillons – the black-bodied crickets also known as les cricris – who chirp in chorus.

Everything slows down in these magical times, la magie de ces soirs d’août. I find myself appreciating everything more after having had such anxious times of late. Un peu de pineau, des melons mûrs, an evening al fresco. France knows how to keep hold of its pleasures and keep them secret: pamplemousse rosé, cognac Schweppes, Charentais melon and a glass of pineau. Time seems to stand still on such evenings, where the only thing to complain about is the absence of a breeze, l’absence du moindre souffle de vent.

Switching the television off, swapping the canapé for the terrasse and being able to pass a few hours with friends after long months of confinement are more than enough to restore the spirit.

Language expert Emma-Jane Lee lingers on some of the pleasures we too often overlook

summer will already be giving way to autumn and this fleeting moment of joy will fade away slowly once again.

While it does not seem so close right now, to sit outside and watch the mid-August festival of light among les hérissons, les blaireaux and les renards, under the watchful eye of Venus, l’étoile du Berger or the Shepherd’s Star, is to remember that there are many moments of pleasure to enjoy that cost us nothing at all. Hedgehogs, badgers and foxes aren’t our only visitors. I’ve seen many a I’d like to think that despite satellite marten - les martes - early in the morning, dishes and central heating, the and of course the ever-present chevreuils countryside retains a little of the very - roe deer - and les cerfs. It seems every best of the past and that the fresh smell of corner we turn on our daily walks is a reminder of the animal world around us. cut hay - le parfum de foin coupé - has the For those of us living in coastal areas, power to transport us back. Certainly, the summer might instead be a time of it transports me back to childhood, to activity. Even so, those long evening those days of being the first to open strolls along le littoral as the sun dips a packet of cereal - such was the only into the sea, where the sea and the sky time I ever experienced that particular become one, is a reminder of the power smell in brief and transient wafts.

The smell of rain on hot, dry gardens, of nature, subdued as well it may be. the strong scent of summer jasmine - so L’écume bouillonnante, wild sea whipped much about the French countryside in up over Atlantic distances, still retains summer is about the smell of it. Warm something of the sauvage, the solitaire.

I don’t think life in the countryside is stones, turned golden-orange in the ever such a reminder of the power of evening. Spring’s lilas and chèvrefeuille, nature, even during the summer storms lilac and honeysuckle, give way to that flash through. There is nothing like elderflower and linden blossom - des the summer to give us quelques instants sureaux and des tilleuls. But the sounds of rural France that also have the power aussi rares que précieux. Hopefully you have many of your own rare and to transport us: des cloches des églises at precious moments to recharge your noon and 7pm; le bourdonnement des abeilles – the heavy, throaty buzz of bees. spirits and remind yourself that all Les tracteurs, of course, and les tondeuses. will be well. Profitez bien!

The summer hums with machine noise Emma is a jack-of-all-language-trades, as much as it does with insect noise. The writing English textbooks, translating, dawn chorus – le chant des oiseaux – which marking exam scripts and teaching actually starts some time just before dawn. languages. She lives near La Rochefoucauld By the time we get to the shooting with her growing menagerie. See stars, les étoiles filantes, in mid-August, www.english-tuition.weebly.com

L i ving

PUBLISHER: Kathryn Dobson FEATURES EDITOR: Roger Moss Advertising: Jon Dobson Art editor: Nadia Van den Rym Production: Justin Silvester Regular contributors: Caro Feely, Susan Hays, Jessica Knipe, magazine Emma-Jane Lee, Nikki Legon, Mike Morris, and Stig Tomas.

WITH THANKS TO: John and Gill Bowler, Julia Moss. Photography: Shutterstock or Roger Moss unless indicated.

Cover image: Carrelet near Lupin, on the Charente estuary © ROGER MOSS Published by: Anglo Media & MArketing, 2 Rue Buffefeu, 86400 Linazay FRANCE. Poitiers: 533 624 128 Printed by: Rotimpres S.A. Dépôt légal: A parution Issue: 78 ISSN: 2270-2709.

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