ISSUE 06
OCTOBER 2 0 12
WHAT LINKS KATE MOSS, BANKSY AND SAATCHI?
TRACEY EMIN'S FASHION MASH-UP
They can’t get enough of Polly Morgan’s dark art
COATS AND BOOTS
What to wear this autumn
ART
THE PLUS
ISSUE
MRS MARK RONSON steps into the limelight... Meet JOSEPHINE DE LA BAUME Cover_OctHK.indd 1
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Contents O C T O B E R 2 012 Features
Anti-clockwise from right: Cacherel AW12; Barbara Boner clutch bag, £2,247; La Mamounia, Morocco; Thomas Sabo pendant, £298.
Columnists 29
Regulars 9
AMUSE REVIEWS All the fashion, art, film, music, books and show news you need to know this month
23
OBJECT OF DESIRE A whisper of silk from Carine Gilson
25
THE FAST FASHION FIX Tracey Emin’s irreverent style Net-a-porter new boy Esteban Cortazar
97
TRAVEL • News: The key to hidden Rome • Shakespeare country
103
INTERIORS • Katharine Pooley’s magical muse • News: the lowdown on Aleksandra Olenska
107
FOOD • Food news: Coke with a JPG twist • Restaurant news: high art meets haute cuisine • Braised chicory and cararmelized clementines in 15 minutes by Florence Knight
112
THIS MONTH’S MUSE Vanessa Bruno’s London life
SADIE & IRIS Carnaby Street to formaldehyde cows with our mother daughter columnists
79
A MAN ABOUT TOWN Nick Cox: Bond v. Beckham
80
UNNATURAL BEAUTY Bethan Cole’s fringe benefits
Fashion & Beauty 58
FASHION IN THE FRAME Arty inspirations for AW12
66
SIX OF THE BEST Stylish winter coats
68
SHOPPING Put the boot in!
71
TRENDS Girls will be boys: androgynous looks were all over the runways so belt up for autumn Heavy metal: from pewter to gold, it’s a 24-carat trend Year of the dragon: ...and phoenix and poppy and all things oriental Fur: Snuggle up for winter
83
BEAUTY News: Aerin Lauder’s new line Lips: Vamp it up with gothic glamour Foundations: Face up to the new season Chanel reader event: Lipstick sos
30
STATE OF THE ART Young female creatives taking the art world by storm
38
THE CAPITAL CURATED London’s smartest arts according to Mollie Dent-Brocklehurst
40
THE MOTHER OF A N IDEA Lydia Slater meets Mother of Pearl’s creative director Maia Norman
44
THE ART OF GETTING DRESSED Art goes off the wall and onto the catwalk
52
A LIFE THROUGH A LENS The death of her mother inspired Kirsty Mitchell’s very own Wonderland
46
EMPRESEE JOSEPHINE Josephine De La Baume (pictured below) perfect life
90
BARE NECESSITIES How Leslie Blodgett revolutionised mineral make-up
92
THE MIDAS TOUCHE Terry de Gunzburg on her new perfume range
On the cover Rhea at Models1 wears Mary Katrantzou’s Powdy dress, £6750, shot by Fabrice Lachant
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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EDITOR’S LETTER FABRICE LACHANT
W
elcome to aMUSE’s October art extravaganza. Thanks to Frieze and all its excitements, London’s heaving with painters splashing, sculptors chipping and dealers wheeling. In celebration of all this creativity, we talk to the capital’s finest women artists, who can take anything from road kill to old books and rubber ducks and make unforgettable objects with it. We also catch up on the queen of London’s dealers, Mollie Dent-Brocklehurst for a low-down on the don’t-miss exhibitions of the autumn, and our fashion pages go distinctly conceptual thanks to Issey Miyake, Holly Fulton and Mary Katrantzou and their take on the link between art and fashion. There’s no stronger connection between the two than the one found in Maia Norman’s Mother of Pearl designs - though whether she’ll ever hire her ex, Damien Hirst, to design a t-shirt remains to be seen... And if she did, would Tracey Emin wear it, bearing in mind she’s really only ever seen in YSL and drip-dry shorts as she reveals in our fast fashion fi x. All that plus Josephine de la Baume, Terry de Gunzburg and the sharpest trends of AW12. Plus, don’t forget to check out the brilliant new aMUSE blog and get set for our brand new newsletter - just go to amusemagazine.co.uk and sign up. Happy reading
Sasha Slater sasha@amusemagazine.co.uk
Fabrice was working on Hollywood films for major producers before coming to London to pursue photography seriously. He’s since had work published in Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and Esquire among other titles. He loves fashion photography and is also working on new art projects. My muse: “I am inspired by many things, but a lot of my inspiration comes from visiting art galleries and museums.”
KIRSTY MITCHELL
Kirsty Mitchell, 36, is a fine art photographer, prop maker and former fashion designer who specialises in creating elaborate hand-crafted images. Kirsty makes or designs almost every element within the frame and then shoots her surreal scenes in the English landscape. My muse: “My ultimate muse is Katie Hardwick, an ethereal model who stars in over half the images in my ‘Wonderland’ series.”
LORELEI MARFIL
Originally from New York, freelance journalist Lorelei Marfil moved to London to attend the London College of Fashion. She contributes to WWD, Harper’s Bazaar online, Interview online and Huffington Post. She has interviewed everyone from Christian Louboutin to Donna Karan, and this month it’s model rocker Josephine de la Baume. My muse: “My mother - one strong lady and a great influence on my brother and me.”
Contributors
ALISTAIR GUY
It’s been a busy year for photographer Alistair Guy, shooting NYFW street style for Net-a-Porter, lensing Vodafone’s LFW campaign and snapping London It girls for Elle UK. He’s also an ambassador for Casio G-shock, Mr Start, Hunter and Aspinal. But he still found time to shoot Mother of Pearl’s Maia Norman for us at her studio. My muse: “Carolina Issa of Tank magazine for her great, simple style and she always has a smile for me.”
MOLLIE DENT BROCKLEHURST
Mollie is Managing Director at Pace London. Pace has a space on Lexington Street and will open at 6 Burlington Gardens in October. Mollie previously worked as international director and program coordinator for The Garage Center for Contemporary Culture, Moscow and Director at Gagosian Gallery, New York. She runs contemporary art exhibitions at her family home, Sudeley Castle. My muses: “David Bowie and Anjelica Huston.”
Sasha Slater Editor sasha@amusemagazine.co.uk Hicham Kasbi Art Director copy@amusemagazine.co.uk Stephanie Hirschmiller Deputy Editor stephanie@amusemagazine.co.uk Polly Glass Features Writer polly@amusemagazine.co.uk Arabella Preston Beauty Editor arabella@amusemagazine.co.uk Fran Mullin Junior Fashion Editor fran@amusemagazine.co.uk Katie Tillyer Fashion Assistant Katie@amusemagazine.co.uk Lydia Slater lydia@amusemagazine.co.uk / Sue Ryan Travel Contributors: Beatrice Aidin, Sara Austin, William Baker, Erika de la Barquera, Caroline Boucher, Dieter Brandenburg, Julia Chadwick, Bethan Cole, Nick Cox, Nadia Foster, Sadie Frost, Lisa Grainger, Florence Knight, Lorelei Marfil, Victoria Moore, Daniel Nadel, Henrietta Roussoulis, Natalie Silverton, Chris Sims 0207 866 8102 @amuse_mag facebook.com/amusemagazine Stephen Murphy Publisher stephen@amusemagazine.co.uk Christian Price Commercial Director christian@amusemagazine.co.uk Gemma Ridgwell Fashion Manager gemma@amusemagazine.co.uk Natalie Miller Advertising Executive natalie@amusemagazine.co.uk Advertising Consultant: Debra Davies 0207 866 8101 Printer BGP / Distribution: Emblem Group Colour Management: David Ladkin
CLAIRE GRECH
Claire - hair stylist for our art fashion shoot - has been working backstage at some of the most high profile fashion shows in New York, London and Paris fashion weeks for the last seven years. She has worked on numerous editorials for Nylon, Nylon Japan, The Sunday Telegraph as well as advertising campaigns for Converse and Baileys. My muse: “My biggest muses are my friends, they are all super creative, inspiring and effortlessly stylish!”
aMuse Magazine is published by aMuse Media, 71-75 Shelton Street, London WC2H 9JQ. Company number: 07189146. aMuse Media cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles and images. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters and emails. The material in aMuse Magazine is subject to copyright. All rights reserved. The paper in this magazine originates from timber that is sourced from sustainable forests, responsibly managed to strict environmental, social, and economic standards. The manufacturing mills have both FSC & PEFC certification, and also ISO9001 and ISO14001 accreditation. ABC application approved August 2012
When you have finished with this magazine please recycle it
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Reviews aMUSE
... FASHION... ART... FILM... MUSIC... BOOKS... SHOWS ... Compiled by POLLY GLASS & KATIE TILLYER
Channel your Chanel
The Chanel little black jacket is one of the most copied garments in fashion history. Alongside the release of Karl Lagerfeld’s new book of photographs catchily titled The Little Black Jacket: Chanel’s Classic Revisited by Karl Lagerfeld and Carine Roitfeld comes an exhibition of the same, for a precious two weeks this month, for which titans Daphne Groeneveld (this page), Lily Allen, Stella Tennant, Edie Campbell and the Fanning sisters have struck a pose. The Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York’s HQ, King’s Road, London SW3 4RY, 12- 28 October 2012, admission free, thelittleblackjacket.chanel.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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fashion
ALL OF A LEATHER
Leather is huge news this autumn, and not just for bags and jackets Intimissimi has now gone all dominatrix on us with its Nero range of leather underwear. Gothic influences abound, but if the full-on leather ensemble ain’t your bag, add a racy touch to your outerwear with the belt or corset bustier. Sometimes more really is more. From £19.99-£99.99, from late October, intimissimi.com
C L OC K T HE R OC K S
PRINT PRINCESS Meet Orla Kiely, the Clapham-based maestro of pretty prints
Who inspires you? I do love 1960s films. Any of the actresses from that era, Mia Farrow, Julie Christie – the films they were in, and the style they had. And then there are the models like Jean Shrimpton or Twiggy. Describe your perfect working environment... I’m quite clean and organised and I like to be surrounded by colour. A good cup of rooibos tea usually helps... And music’s definitely important – like Serge Gainsbourg. I just recently bought a load of 1960s music because I think it’s quite funny, like François Hardy. How would you describe your personal style? Simple and vintage...I like colour. On the high street I do find Uniqlo great for essential pieces, and for designers I like Marni. I do think Prada is amazing as well when I need a treat. Why did you want to work with Uniqlo? I think our styles complement each other. We’re quite different, in a sense; we’ve got the print and colour, they’ve got the quality and this philosophy of good basics and classics. So the idea that we could bring colour and print to that was very appealing. Tell us about the collection... All the prints we’ve used in the Uniqlo collection
are based on our archives. Stylistically we hit a good 1960s moment. There’s a lot of layering, with pinafore dresses and cute blouses underneath. We’ve done a little fox print and a dragonfly, and a hedgehog... So we were kind of doing an English forest. The Orla Kiely collection at Uniqlo is available now until November, uniqlo.com. From £9.90
Roll up, roll up, because Paris’s oldest art fair is coming to town, with the world’s greatest jewellery designers showing off their finest creations. Purveyor of megabaubles since 1858 Boucheron is one of the stars of the show, which arrives at Harrods at the beginning of the month. Now that the days are getting darker and colder, the gobstopper sized gems and intricate creations are just the thing to add some sparkle to your look. Biennale des Antiquaires, From 1-14 October, Harrods Fine Jewellery Room, London SW1, harrods.com
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AMUSE
fashion fashion
ART /
/ FILM
/ RESTAUR A NTS / BOOKS /
CAPSULE CHIC If you’re wondering with what to team
your Outnet bargains you need look no further than, well, the Outnet. Net-a-Porter’s thrift- savvy sister site has just launched a capsule line called Iris & Ink. Its mix of cashmere crews, silk pussy bow blouses, boyfriend jackets, trenches and statement pieces such as the leather dress (above, £278 and top, £150) are designed to merge with the rest of your wardrobe with the click of a mouse. Iris & Ink, from around £100, theoutnet.com
WOOLLY WONDERS If you are ethically minded, you really
should cosy up to wool – it’s natural, sustainable, and we produce a lot of it in the UK. Campaign for Wool unites Jigsaw, Pringle and Paul Smith, along with luminaries like Colin and Livia Firth and Prince Charles to pay homage to that classic winter warmer, the woolly jumper. Each of the 12 brands involved has designed it’s own take on the jumper – particularly snuggly is Jigsaw’s creamy Fair Isle (top right, £225) and Topshop (inset right, £48). From 15 October, campaignforwool.org
ON YOUR BIKE For the likes of Blondie, the Sex
Pistols and the Clash, the only biker jackets to be seen in were by Schott - shoot forward 30 years and it’s clear that Rihanna, Jay Z, Lady Gaga and Kristen Stewart feel the same. The NY brand has joined forces with House of Holland to produce the British label’s take on the classic biker (£650) and varsity jackets (£495). Fun colours, candy stripes and cartoon characters make for a stunning reworking. Schott x House of Holland, from October, available in Selfridges
PACO A PUNCH We’re in love with the edgy LIFE’S A BEACH
Planning on jetting off to sunnier climes? Australian swimwear brand Seafolly’s Limited Edition Collection, launching exclusively at Harrods, is the place to find a bikini at this time of year, when you can never normally hunt one down for love or money. The collection includes swimsuits, kaftans and maxi dresses, and the campaign images alone are enough to make you drool. From £86, harrods.com
campaign shots for Paco Rabanne’s collaboration with German jewellery designer Amélie Riech, featuring artsy graphic shapes in gold metal, black and clear perspex. For a real statement piece, the awesome chunky gold choker is unbeatable but if you like your bijoux a little less OTT (why?) the minimalist cocktail rings are perfect all-round accessories. Prices start from £290 for a ring to £3,100 for a collar necklace. pacoLab by Amélie Riech for Paco Rabanne exclusively available at Dover Street Market, pacorabanne.com
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SCREEN DREAMS
Craving Dorothy’s ruby slippers? Lusting after Spiderman’s lycra? Thanks to the V&A you will be able to have a good close look at them. Over 100 silver screen outfits will be on show at this exhibition – from the dusty clobber of Raiders of The Lost Ark, through to Johnny Depp’s Pirates of the Caribbean threads to the Renaissance splendour of Elizabeth (left). HOLLYWOOD COSTUME, V&A, 20 October-27 January 2013, vam.ac.uk
MAD, MAD MONEY
Artists have often strayed onto the wilder shores of insanity and a new exhibition, Bedlam, is a collaboration between the Old Vic Tunnels, and the Lazarides Gallery, all about the bonkers, kooky and just plain bats. But bearing in mind that the Lazarides Gallery made a star of Banksy, there might be some very sane art investments to be made here. BEDLAM, in collaboration with Lazarides Gallery and the Old Vic Tunnels, Leake Street, London SE1, 9-21 October, lazinc.com
A BIG DRAW
At last, we’re seeing the comeback of drawing. Over 50 winning pieces from the Association of Illustrators’ UK flagship competition, Images, make up the enticing selection at Somerset House. Go, ingest, then grab a pencil and sketch-pad, and join the movement. IMAGES 36: Best of British Illustration Somerset House, The Aldwych, 3-28 October, somersethouse.org.uk
We’ve gawped at his Olympic Orbit tower, and now we can check out a whole collection of new works from Bombay-born, London-based, art supremo Anish Kapoor – created over the last year (he’s been a busy bee). Expect a lively mix of colour-driven minimalism and textured pieces employing materials such as mud and metallic pigments from the former Turner Prize winner. ANISH KAPOOR, Lisson Gallery, 52-54 Bell Street, NW1, 10 October-10 November, lissongallery.com
MARLBOROUGH LIGHT Art world heavyweight Marlborough Fine Art is soon to be joined by a more up-to-date companion – Marlborough Contemporary. Promising to complement the former’s expertise in 19th and 20th century masters, the new space will debut with a specially commissioned exhibition from Mozambican-Portuguese artist Angela Ferreira – a purveyor of colossal installations combining sculpture, film, photography and sound. Multimedia mayhem. MARLBOROUGH CONTEMPORARY: 6 ALBERMARLE ST, W1 opening 11 October 2012 with Ângela Ferreira. marlboroughcontemporary.com
F0R MOZAMBIQUE, MARLBOROUGH CONTEMPORARY COLLECTION;© ANISH KAPOOR; ELIZABETH THE GOLDEN AGE, UNIVERSAL/WORKING TITLE/ KOBAL COLLECTION/GREG WILLIAMS; LUDLOW FROM LAZARIDES/BEDLAM, DAN WITZ/LAZARIDES
KAPOOR SHOW
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film ADULT MOVIES
La Bohème, Swan Lake, Les Troyens, The Nutcracker...for the price of a movie ticket? You heard right – it is possible to enjoy live world-class opera and ballet in the chilled environment of your local picture house. All thanks to the Royal Opera House and its forthcoming Cinema Season, bringing swishy culture and popcorn together in harmony. ROYAL OPERA HOUSE CINEMA SEASON 2012/13, starts 23 October roh.org.uk/cinema
BOND AMBITION
THE GREATEST EXPECTATIONS
Twelve days of cinema including 14 world premieres, 15 international premieres, 111 short films, interviews and masterclasses with industry pros. This year the festival spans venues across Soho, the West End, Brixton and Hackney (as well as the BFI itself, on the Southbank), making it that bit easier to get in on the action. Opening with Tim Burton’s animated scarefest Frankenweenie, and closing with the new Great Expectations (starring Mrs Tim Burton, aka Helena Bonham Carter), it’s set to be a truly fabulous film festival. 56th BFI London Film Festival in partnership with American Express 10-21 October 2012, bfi.org.uk
WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT EZRA With a charismatic cast including Emma
Watson, We Need To Talk About Kevin’s Ezra Miller and Paul Rudd (Phoebe’s husband Mike from Friends), The Perks of Being a Wallflower looks set to suppress any remaining Harry Potter-related reservations about Watson, but it’s the sparkling Miller who’s the real revelation.
music THIS MONTH’S MUSE
With every passing Muse record – as their rock, electronic, classical, metal influences continue to feed in – it becomes ever harder to believe that they’re just a threepiece. Album number six, The 2nd Law, is another flourish of bombastic eclecticism. Classic rock staples are fleshed out with ominous orchestral swells (lending a film-soundtrack quality), sampling, electro-pop and even dubstep touches. Try the supremely cool ‘Unsustainable’ for starters. THE 2ND LAW, MUSE, out 1 October on Helium 3/Warner Records
aMUSE What film inspired you to pursue acting? Ezra Miller: The Wonderful Wizard Of Oz made me want to be an actor and revealed that I already was one. aMUSE Who is the person you most admire? EM: The 19th-century Russian anarchist Emma Goldman who tried to assassinate American industrialists. aMUSE What’s the best book you’ve read recently? EM: The Book Of Devi, about the Hindu religion. aMUSE What makes you happiest, besides acting? EM: Drugs like love, music and, of course, weed. THE PERKS OF BEING A WALLFLOWER, out 5 October, perks-of-being-a-wallflower.com
ROH CINEMA, JOHAN PERSSON; BFI MATT ANTROBUS; ENTERTAINMENT ONE
The time has come, once more, for a cinematic feast of testosterone-fuelled gadgetry, naked ladies and big banging things as Skyfall sees the return of Daniel Craig for his third outing as 007. He’s shot off an enormous bridge in the beginning, only to reappear with not a hair out of place, mere seconds later, along with Judi Dench as the all-seeing M. Ben Wishaw puts in a convincing performance as a very fresh-faced Q, though we’re not sure about new baddie Javier Bardem’s peroxide job. And Helen McCrory, Bérénice Marlohe and Naomie Harris line up to join the illustrious ranks of the Bond girls. SKYFALL, out 26 October, Sony Pictures, skyfall-movie.com
GOOD GOLLY MISS GOLIGHTLY We defy you not to stomp your feet gleefully, or sway your head soulfully, to the rootsy, slide geetar-tastic country blues on this album by The Broke-Offs, particularly when it’s performed in Brit singer Holly Golightly’s fabulously raw cowgal drawl. Sunday Run Me Over, the fifth album from the retro group is part Oh Brother Where Art Thou, part electric rock n’ roll, part Black Keys-esque blues... Superb. Grininducing romp ‘Goddam Holy Roll’ especially. Yee-haw! SUNDAY RUN ME OVER, HOLLY GOLIGHTLY & THE BROKE-OFFS, out 8 October on Transdreamer Records
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books PRINCESS DRESSING
AKRIS FW12-13
Those who like their fashion slick, chic and Swiss will no doubt be familiar with the creations of Akris. Angelina Jolie and Princess Charlene of Monaco certainly are - they can be counted among the brand’s many glamorous fans. The book, released in time for Akris’ 90th anniversary, homes in on the last 30 years under the creative direction of Albert Kriemler. A first-rate insight into this leader in fashion for the ‘independent, modern woman’ whomsoever she may be. AKRIS: 1922 - 2012, Valerie Steele, £80, Assouline, available for purchase through akris.ch and select retail networks worldwide
FAMILY VALUES
Descendant of Arthur Guinness, university lecturer Selina, 41, operates in rather more literary circles than her distant relation, the fashion chameleon Daphne, and has written a family memoir of the Irish brewing dynasty Tell us about The Crocodile by the Door... In 2002, my partner Tom and I returned to live at Tibradden in the Dublin Mountains. My bachelor uncle Charles had long ago reconciled himself to the decline of a place which had been in the Guinness family since 1860. We had little idea then what the coming years would bring: human tragedy, a crash course in farming, tense discussions with property developers, and the challenge of dragging a quasi-feudal estate into the 21st century. The Crocodile by the Door is a memoir of that time. What’s your personal highlight in the book? The crocodile in our hall (as in the book’s title). I’ve always wondered how, in 1888, my greatgrand-Uncle Henry got its head from Persia to the taxidermist in Piccadilly, who turned his hunting trophy into a letterbox and sent it on to Tibradden. The postman kept the only key to the door at the back. Each morning he would retrieve the outgoing post from the crocodile’s head, ensuring that no one within the house would ever learn the identity of each other’s correspondents. Its open jaws are instructive for a memoir about families.
Which books do you read over and over again? The books I returned to while writing my own are Yeats’s Collected Poems, Joseph Roth’s The Radetzky March, Sandor Marai’s Embers, and Magda Szabo’s The Door. All explore the tension between principles of service and personal ambition. When I need cheering up, I read the opening chapters of Evelyn Waugh’s Scoop. Describe your perfect writing environment... I think best in my grandfather’s dressing room which now serves as my study with its two arched windows looking out over Dublin bay: this is true only when my two small sons are not at home. To finish the book, I booked myself into an airport hotel. What’s your next project? I have a scene in my head of a woman on a beach with a child that isn’t hers. What will happen next still has to be worked out. The Crocodile By The Door, Selina Guinness, £16.99, Penguin Ireland, out 4 October
PAGE TURNERS IMPOSSIBLY BIG BUCKS Do you dream in art? Then hesitate not and check out this impossibly high-end, beautiful book of the very best in contemporary and modern art gems – a fantasy collection where excellent taste, and purse strings know no boundaries. Picasso beauties, Klimt classics (just in time for his 150th anniversary) – it’s an authoritative, educational tour of the art giants and lesser known pioneers, and a serious banquet for the eyes. THE IMPOSSIBLE COLLECTION OF ART, £450, from Assouline boutiques worldwide and through assouline.com, out now
TURNING JAPANESE One of the most respected names in contemporary Japanese art, Takashi Murakami, is a media-hopping artistic force to be reckoned with. Oscillating between fine art (painting, sculpture), and more commercial fashion, merchandise and animation projects, he’s an intriguing figure. And there’s no better way to catch up with him than with this new, picture-perfect volume, overseen by the man himself. MURAKAMI - EGO, £45, Rizzoli, out now
UNSPOKEN WORD This short novel from Patrick Ness started life as a children’s book – following the struggles of a boy dealing with his mother’s cancer – but now A Monster Calls is kicking up a storm among older readers. The word ‘cancer’ is never mentioned, but its presence is subtly expressed as Conor’s story unfolds. A whole new realm of emotional literature. Read with tissues. A MONSTER CALLS, adult paperback version, £6.99, Walker Books, out now
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Get your fast fashion fix - 90 minute deliver y available
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shows
In Alan Hollinghurst’s version of the tragedy, Berenice, from 17th-century French playwright Jean Racine, Anne-Marie Duff plays the eponymous lead, overjoyed when hubby Titus becomes Emperor of Rome – thereby making her Empress. But does it all pan out as she hopes? Of course not – this is a tragedy, dummy. And a pretty gut-wrenching one at that, as Titus is prejudiced against her by others, who see poor old Berenice as unsuitable Imperial marriage material. BERENICE, DONMAR WAREHOUSE, 27 September 24 November, donmarwarehouse.com
An absolute must in the calendar of any self-respecting culture vulture – the Frieze Art Fair, in Regent’s Park, brings you the crème de la crème of contemporary art, from select galleries worldwide. Talks, films and other projects all help make it rather a special show. Now go and soak it all up. FRIEZE LONDON 2012, 11-14 October, Regents Park, friezelondon.com
YES YOU KHAN A dance show with huge variety, this full-length solo performance from contemporary dancer/choreographer Akram Khan offers many surprises. Incorporating mimed scenes followed by gigantic, strangely beautiful, animated elephants; Khan upside down across the stage ceiling; a little face crudely sketched on his bald head... Desh examines various examples of nationhood and resistance in Britain and Bangladesh, converging in one man (Khan) trying to find his place and balance in an unstable world. AKRAM KHAN COMPANY - DESH, 2 - 9 October, Sadler’s Wells, London EC1, sadlerswells.com
CRAZY FOR IT
Christian Louboutin designs the shoes, Azzedine Alaia and Karl Lagerfeld have collaborated, Steve Tyler is a fan, Ellen Von Unwerth called it ‘the sexiest show EVER!’... Everyone seems to have gone gaga over this avant-garde show from Crazy Horse Paris – now making its London premiere. Fusing French cabaret with high fashion, Forever Crazy is a sensual, artistic celebration of Parisian life. And they’re supporting MTV’s Staying Alive Foundation (a charity tackling the HIV epidemic) in the process. Ooh la la. FOREVER CRAZY, until 22 December, The Crazy Horse, 99 Upper Ground, South Bank, forevercrazy.co.uk
STOP, FRIEZE!
winner of Frieze’s Emdash Award celebrating the hottest in contemporary art, has created a piece in the quirky form of an audio guide to this year’s fair featuring commentary from average Joes describing the artworks, based on their personal responses rather than any lofty, tiresome academic theory.
How would you sum up your style? My work is a mix of high and low references. For example, I recently mixed classic photography with braille spelled out in nail art rhinestones. What inspires you? Many different things, from R&B to postmodern dance, Jim Henson to classic films. The fun part is finding ways to feed these inspirations into different pieces. Who is your muse? Google. What’s the best thing about your job? I read somewhere that the artist Isa Genzken once said, when asked if she ever went on holiday, “What am I meant to take a holiday from?” The best thing is enjoying what you do and getting to do it, as a job. EVANS’ work will be exhibited at Frieze 2012, 11-14 October, frieze.com
FLAWLESSLY EXECUTED Take one fearless female artist in 16th-century Venice (played by Fiona Shaw), add wartime politics and unforgiving authorities and you have Howard Barker’s Scenes From An Execution, now on at the National. Commissioned to paint an enormous triumphal canvas depicting the Battle of Lepanto, the freespirited artist Galactia paints a horrifying scene of warfare and carnage instead. SCENES FROM AN EXECUTION, Lyttleton Theatre, National Theatre, until 15 November, nationaltheatre.org.uk
AKRAM KAN BY RICHARD HAUGHTON; FRANZ WEST UNTITLED AT FRIEZE, GAGOSIAN GALLERY
WHEN IN ROME
WHO’S THAT GIRL? Cecile B Evans, 29, the
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AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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‘I wear my drip-dry shorts with an Yves Saint Laurent jacket and a Westwood blouse ’
The fast fashion fix:
FROM TOP LEFT: VIVIENNE WESTWOOD GOLD LABEL AW12; TRACEY WITH TIGGY AT THE GARZON LAUNCH AT URUGUAYAN EMBASSY; PORTRAIT BY NICK MORRISH/BA INTERVIEW: POLLY GLASS
TRACEY EMIN
I’ll often wear a cardigan instead of a coat... I love Westwood knitwear, the really big thick cardigans. I like feeling cosy and snuggly; knitting isn’t supposed to look sexy. Though I do like Yves Saint Laurent macs... They’re fitted, a classic trench coat with a leopard-print lining inside. So it’s like a play on that ‘you wrap it tightly round you, and you don’t wear anything underneath’ thing. I do wear something underneath of course... Often when I wear YSL people think I’m wearing Vivienne Westwood... I think it’s just because of the way I wear it; I don’t wear Yves Saint Laurent in a boring way. Plus I’ll wear Stella McCartney trousers and jeans. There are all kinds of designers that I really respect like Roland Mouret, Amanda Wakeley, Betty Jackson... but their clothes don’t suit me. But I do love Tom Ford... I got a Tom Ford jacket for Christmas; it looks really
Vivienne Westwood’s husband dubbed her ‘the first glamorous female artist’. And if her long-treasured fashion favourites are anything to go by, he may well have had a point. We caught up with her at the launch of the new luxury knitwear line, Garzon - the brainchild of her close friend Tiggy Maconochie good with my Westwood dresses. I don’t like wearing a whole look – I like to have my own mix. I buy my clothes from a camping shop... I’ve got lots of shorts from it. It’s called Kathmandu. It sells drip-dry skirts which are very hard to get hold of. And I often wear my drip-dry shorts with an Yves Saint Laurent jacket and a Westwood blouse. Fashion takes inspiration from artists... I know John Galliano used to really love my work, the patchwork and the neon, and he did a whole collection inspired by it. And Stella [McCartney], years ago, did a load of wedding dresses with text by
me. So, you can really see it filtering through. The brilliant thing about Britain is we’ve got real street fashion... and it’s been around for a hundred years: the teddy boys, punks, mods, rockers. And in the last 20 years in Britain, art has been like that as well – it hasn’t been influenced by the galleries, the artists have control. When I was 14 or 15, we’d go to jumble sales. I had a Dior dress and a Chanel suit I found in jumble sales in the ’70s. If I could collaborate with any fashion designer... it would be Valentino. That would be really classy. emininternational.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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The fast fashion fix:
ESTEBAN CORTA Z AR The former creative director of Emanuel Ungaro spent his youth soaking up Miami South Beach fashion, had his first window display at 13 and his own line at 23. Now, at 28, he’s re-launching his eponymous signature collection. He lives in Paris with his partner Jaime Rubiano, who works with him
Anything can start a collection... Looking at art, watching a movie, watching a beautiful woman walking down the street – that could inspire a whole look. The collection is all about a new start and a new beginning... We started using ivories and nudes and off-whites. I really wanted it to feel pure and immaculate. It’s really interesting mixing tailoring with soft fabrics... I wanted to combine beautiful draping and tailoring. That was a starting point; having something very sculptural that at the same time felt very fragile. The movie Gattaca was a big inspiration.... It’s one of my all-time favourites aesthetically. It’s a beautiful film; I love the
play of light and the aesthetic, and the postmodern feeling it conveys. I took a lot of influence from that in terms of colours, textures and silhouettes. Artists on my radar are... the Italian painter Nicola Samori. His strokes and the way he uses nude and off-white in his work are great. Also, for use of light I admire James Turrell – a really amazing light installation artist. You need to have a woman to admire... My mother was a jazz singer in Bogota, Colombia. I used to love listening to her and watching her get dressed for her performances. I have had a lot of very chic women in my life. I think that triggered my love for women and the curiosity of watching them get dressed.
Miami was my introduction to real fashion... I visited my artist father there during the 90s and moved there in 1996. Gianni Versace had just built his house there and photographers like Patrick Demarchelier and Peter Lindbergh were shooting the supermodels. A lot of very influential people in fashion were there and I was at the heart of it. I did my homework in the back of the Versace shop...While other kids were at the mall, I was hanging out at fashion shoots, or going to stores like Tod’s and Versace. While I was at school, I started doing window displays in vintage stores in my neighbourhood, and doing shows in talent contests. The next thing I knew, I was designing my own collection at 23 – it all happened really quickly. Every woman should have a pair of classic pumps in her wardrobe... Shoes are always the start for me, they can make or break an outfit. Also, I know it’s a bit clichéd but a little black dress is so useful. And a trench. I’ve developed over the years but I’m still the same spontaneous guy I’ve always been.... and my love for making women feel beautiful and making them feel like they’re the only one in the room is still there. The reaction from the woman who’s going to wear my clothes is the basis of all my design. Cortazar, available now at net-a-porter.com
INTERVIEW: POLLY GLASS
‘I did my homework in the back of the Versace shop. While other kids were at the mall I was hanging out at fashion shoots’
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Family values
— SADIE FROST —
I
have two memorable art moments of my own. One was when I sat for Jake Chapman to paint my portrait. And not just any old portrait. He has made me look like a cross between a big ugly insect and myself. The other was when my father, David Vaughan, strapped me to a cross on the steps of a museum. I was Jesus along with two disciples for an art installation for the whole afternoon. I was four years old. My father was an artist. I spent most of my youth sitting on his shoulders watching him paint with his brush and paint-tin in hand, as he would create colourful murals in Carnaby Street or the King’s Road. He produced work for the Beatles and the Kinks as well as for high-profile private collectors. My earliest memories were of the strong smell of paint and the slightly anarchic world he lived in, as he was not someone who conformed to the standard behaviour of exhibitors expected by curators and galleries. He was a flamboyant figure, like so many other artists. A lot of artists that I have admired since have been as bold and have had the same zest for life and art as he did, sometimes coming from poor, working-class backgrounds. I have always found Damien Hirst, Tracey Emin and the Chapman brothers fascinating. The Lucian Freud retrospective at the National Portrait Gallery this year was phenomenal and took you on an extraordinary journey. That said, I have always been attracted to pop art: artists such as Peter Blake and Andy Warhol and then I think more recent artists such as Banksy are so talented. His picture of the little girl with the heart balloon is my favourite. I enjoy his irony. I am always looking out for up-and-coming young artists, which means I try to go to as many small exhibitions as possible. The most recent was of work by John and Molly Dove who I knew as I was growing up as I was best friends with their daughter, Sarah. They were quite well known on the punk scene with their clothing range Kitsch. When I walked into the gallery I was overwhelmed by their work, ranging from old Elvis prints, naked Fifties girls, and an exploding Mickey Mouse. But to my dismay the whole collection had been bought by someone very exciting. It made me realise how powerful and fast-moving the art world can be. Next time they have a viewing I will walk in waving my cheque book.
PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOPHER SIMS; ASSISTANT NICK THOMPSON
‘My father was an artist. I spent most of my youth sitting on his shoulders watching him paint as he created colourful murals in Carnaby Street’
— IRIS LAW —
R
ecently I went to the Damien Hirst exhibition at Tate Modern. As well as staring at spin paintings and giant ashtrays full of old cigarettes, I admired the young children who followed their parents about, completely blown away by these abstract works of art. I understand why little children enjoy being creative and want to be artists, I can imagine looking up at these great sculptures and animals in formaldehyde (the shark with his wrinkled nose, the sliced-up calf ) in amazement and being completely inspired. I picked up a skull art book at the exhibition and have been attached to it ever since. I draw my feelings and surroundings mainly using charcoal and pencil but sometimes adding in colour. For one rather dark piece of art, of a hand holding a ball, I coloured the ball with red nail polish then covered it with black crackle nail polish for a shattered effect. I prefer art at home rather than at school because I find it hard to have a chosen time of the day to draw or paint – art is something that arrives when you are inspired – it doesn’t come on demand. It’s lucky, though, that my art teacher is very understanding.
‘I draw my feelings and surroundings. I prefer to do it at home because I find it hard to have a chosen time of the day to paint’ AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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‘Departures’ by Polly Morgan (photographed below by Charlie Hall)
STATE ART
They’ve worked with Sophie Dahl, Christopher Bailey collects them and OF THE Saatchi champions them. These are the young women making waves on the art scene, says Polly Glass
POLLY MORGAN, 32
What does she do? Avant-garde, stylish taxidermy – placing roadkill and dead pets (all donated) in often bizarre settings. Early inspirations? “At 10 years old I remember cutting around the heads of strangers in the background of family photographs to stick on my wall,” Polly tells us. “I liked the idea of the anonymous person being singled out for appraisal.
They didn’t even know they were being photographed yet they became the most memorable part of the picture.” Career highlights? “Selling my work, Departures, to the Me Collection (owned by Thomas Olbricht) in Berlin was exciting, as little of my work had travelled abroad at that point. Being included in a Pallant House Exhibition alongside Jeff Koons and Grayson Perry felt good, as it
was the first time my work had been in a museum show.” Who’s bought her? Damien Hirst, Banksy and Charles Saatchi head an impressive list. Prices range from £1,000 to £85,000. Where can I find her work? Haunch of Venison, All Visual Arts and direct from her studio. pollymorgan.co.uk
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SU BLACKWELL, 36
What does she do? Exquisite, intricate paper models and cut-out illustrations, often centred on fairytales, folklore and young girls in haunting situations. How would Su sum it up? “Whimsical and feminine, with a dark undercurrent.” Early inspirations? “When I was two, I sneaked behind the sofa with a big pair of kitchen scissors and a black and white photograph of my father when he was a baby. Apparently, this was the only
existing photograph of him as a baby, and I cut off his head with the big scissors. I remember being dragged from behind the sofa, and punished for it.” Who has bought her work? Helena Bonham Carter, Katie Melua and Erin O’Connor. The Bronte Parsonage Museum in Haworth, and the Robert Byrnes Museum in Ayrshire have pieces. Where can I find her work? At the Long and Ryle Gallery, London SW1 sublackwell.co.uk
Su Blackwell’s The Baron in the Trees.
GABRIELLA BOYD, 23
Boyd’s ‘A Room in London’.
What does she do? Contemporary paintings of imaginary locations, pushing the boundaries of perceived space. “My paintings stand between something light and playful and something more disturbing. The melancholic or erotic undercurrent is balanced with an overt playfulness, presented through bold pattern and colours.” Early inspirations? “I won a marbling competition in nursery – the jigsaw that I
‘Nouveau Riche’. Below: Corinne Felgate working on ‘UberAchiever’.
CORINNE FELGATE, 27
What does she do? Contemporary sculpture, spanning a range of colours and media – from creepy, to chic minimalism, to brave and bizarre. Bear in mind that she released 8,000 rubber ducks on the beach in Margate earlier this year, for an exhibition commissioned by the Tate. “I like the idea that sculpture is a way of making philosophy tangible, allowing me to create things that are a kind of slippage between fantasy and reality,” the Slade graduate says. Early inspirations? “As a five-year-old, I celebrated my stepmother moving in by making her a cake from red gloss paint, soil and custard which I mixed on the garage floor. I’ve always been interested in processes, mixing, building and breaking things.” Who’s bought her? British-Nigerian art pioneer Yinka Shonibare has been a great supporter, buying Corinne’s work for his own collection and showing it at his gallery, Guest Projects. Recently, she created two pieces for the Town Hall Hotel, Bethnal Green. Where can I find her work? Felgate is showing at Tate Modern, as part of the Worlds Together Conference and at Angus Hughes as Part of Product Placement. corinnefelgate.com
won was my favourite possession for about 10 years. Later, my exchange programme at the Pratt Institute in New York was a massive inspiration. The four months I spent there helped consolidate my love for figurative painting.” Career highlights? The artist – listed in the 2012 Catlin Guide – has been acclaimed by Charles Saatchi, New York art collectors Keri Christ and Justin Ockenden, and the Creative Cities Collection. gabriellaboyd.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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CATHERINE PARSONAGE, 23
LILY BERTRAND WEBB
What does she do? Atmospheric, dark, intriguing paintings: “I’m interested in ideas of choice, autonomy and anxiety, an instability that is both manic and melancholic. My approach is bound in the possibilities and limitations of making painting now.” Early inspirations? “On my first trip to London, I went to see the Howard Hodgkin retrospective. It was the first time I looked seriously at painting.” Career highlights? She was featured in the 2012 Catlin Guide to Artists, the Saatchi New Sensations exhibition and the BP Portrait Award at the National Portrait Gallery last year. Where can I find her work? At her studio in the RCA Painting building in Battersea. (‘Untitled’, below) rca.ac.uk
‘Michael Jackson in Blue’ from Annie Kevans’ Lost Boys series.
ANNIE KEVANS, 39
What does she do? Portraits, mostly in oils, of public figures with a political twist. With her ‘Collaborators’ series, she profiled the likes of Coco Chanel and Gaston Louis Vuitton, exploring their relationships with the Nazis during World War II. The works in ‘Girls’ explored the sexualisation of childhood, with portraits of child stars including Brooke Shields, Britney Spears and the Olsen twins, semi-naked with plump red lips. Early inspirations? “A colouring-in book of Tudor kings and queens which my mum gave me after visiting England (we lived in France). I also remember being fascinated by the chair in ‘Vincent’s Chair with His Pipe’ by Van Gogh and
attempting to copy it from a poster we had at home. My childhood entailed a lot of making things as we didn’t have that many toys.” Who’s bought her work? Charles Saatchi, Stephen Fry, Marc Quinn, John McEnroe, movie mogul and philanthropist Jean Pigozzi and real-estate mogul and socialite Beth Rudin De Woody. Prices start from £4,500. What’s next? “I am working on some paintings on canvas after many years of working exclusively on canvas paper, exploring ideas relating to family, love and personality. The paintings will be fairly dark but, hopefully, thought-provoking.” anniekevans.com
JULIA VOGL, 27
What does she do? Brightly coloured social sculpture (right ‘Colouring the Invisible’), as well as drawing and collage. Vogl aims to prompt discussion and public debate: with her huge-scale piece ‘1000 Opinions’ she posed the question, “Where would you allocate £1,000,000 of public spending?” in order to create a multi-coloured bar chart across the exterior of University College London. Breakthrough? Most recently, she’s won
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Justine Smith and her ‘Instruments of State – China’.
JUSTINE SMITH, 40
What does she do? Collages, prints and sculptures, largely made with banknotes. “For me God is in the detail,” says Justine. “A lot of my work is very intricate, and often painstakingly slow to make. As I
the 2012 Catlin Art Prize, been selected for this year’s Window Project at the Gazelli Art House (in which an artist is allowed to completely transform the frontage of the gallery) and produced her selfcommissioned cultural Olympiad work, ‘Home’. This was a public art project in Peckham involving audio, visual and participatory elements. Where can I find her work? At the Jerwood Drawing Prize, exhibited at Jerwood Space in London until 28 October. juliavogl.com, homeproject2012.com
work with money it is often political so I spend a lot of time researching ideas.” Early inspirations? “As a child, I was always making stuff as well as writing stories and illustrating them. I remember making a dolls house from a cardboard box and then making everything to go in it, including a tiny telephone directory with all the numbers in it.” Who’s bought her? Lord Rothschild is a long-time collector, Bono has a piece, and she has done a print swap with Peter Blake. Where can I find her work? At the Manchester City Gallery in The First Cut competition. She also has a piece in a forthcoming show on Britain and the Financial Crisis at the British Museum in November. justinesmith.net
Surridge’s ‘After It All’, 2011.
KATIE LOUISE SURRIDGE, 27
What does she do? Organic, often vast-scale, installations with earthy materials including taxidermy, for a rather shaman-esque, ritualistic feel, combined with harsh strip-lighting. It’s raw, yet magical and delicate. Early inspirations? “I remember my crayons melted all over the back seat of my dad’s brand new Saab when I was a kid. The car stank for years, but when they dried they made this really odd melty, re-hardened patch. I secretly thought it was beautiful.” Surridge’s Keep on Career highlights? Katie Wondering, 2011. exhibited in a group show this year at Christies, South Kensington, called I Heart 3D and won the £3,000 prize. Who buys her? Charles Saatchi, the Royal British Sculpture society, Secret Arts and the Dolbey trust to name a few. Where can I find her work? At the Eb&Flow Gallery. She plans to travel to the Salt Flats in Bolivia in the near future, for salt-derived work and, as Katie says, “it’s perfect for rust – I like rust. I love rust...” ebandflowgallery.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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AILEEN MCEWEN, 23
What does she do? Gorgeous paintings, with broad colourful strokes. They are organic, with a traditional but fresh feel. “My style adopts the aspirational aesthetic of popular culture, and is informed by my nostalgia for artists like Singer Sargent and Vuillard but also contemporary female painters like Lisa Yuskavage and Moyna Flannigan,” says McEwen. Early inspirations? “When I was five, we were asked in primary school to paint a copy of Van Gogh’s Sunflowers. Mine was held up in front of the class and the teacher asked if I had ever considered being an artist. I
thought it sounded like a good idea.” Where can I find her work? Having made the final shortlist for Saatchi New Sensations 2012, McEwen’s work will be exhibited at the Saatchi Gallery in October. aileenmcewen.com
Top left: Aileen McEwen’s ‘What is Vulgar Approaches’; left: McEwen’s ‘An Interior Light’; Above: ‘Wanjiru’ by Phoebe Boswell and (far right) ‘Victor’.
Annie Morris’ piece ‘Mother’, Pandemonium 2012, WWF
PHOTOGRAPH LEFT BY JIM NAUGHTON, WWF; PHOEBE BOSWELL BY SI QUINN
ANNIE MORRIS, 34
What does she do? Illustrations, paintings and textured pieces, “somewhere between fantasy and reality, figurative and energetic”. “My work often explores relationships and personal issues that have affected my life,” she says. “Recently I made a series of drawings and sculptures that dealt with the emotional issue of stillbirth which I went through myself only a year ago.” Early inspirations? ‘I remember drawing and painting every day since I was really young,” says Morris. “My mother tells me I used to leave paintings outside her bedroom door at night.” She went on to study at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, Paris, and at the Slade. Breakthrough? Morris illustrated Sophie Dahl’s novella The Man With The Dancing Eyes in 2003. She also attracted attention when Burberry creative chief Christopher Bailey commissioned her to make an enormous dress entirely out of painted clothes pegs. Who buys her work? “Recently I had a large painting at the Royal Academy Summer Show that sold for enough to keep my studio going for a while,” she says. Where can I find her work? Have a look at her contribution to the online auction at Pandemonium 2012 – a WWF (World Wide Fund for Nature) initiative, which challenged top contemporary artists to create “wearable sculpture”, in celebration of the charity’s 50th anniversary. wwf.org.uk, anniemorris.com
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PHOEBE BOSWELL, 30
What does she do? Straddling fine art and new media, Boswell’s works encompass drawing, animation, projection and installation – though drawing forms the core of most of them. The London-based artist studied Fine Art at Central Saint Martin’s, then at the Slade, before returning to CSM for a course in animation. Early inspirations? “Born to a Kikuyu mother and a British Kenyan settler father, and growing up as an expatriate away from Kenya, I have always been fascinated by personal histories, idiosyncrasies, belief systems, flaws, primal instincts, and the way people
negotiate their position in the world,” she tells us. “Retelling their stories through drawing has seemed to give me my own sense of place.” Who’s bought her? The Royal Academy, The Mall Galleries and Bonhams have exhibited her drawings. She’s been commissioned to create animations for BBC4, 12foot6, Comedy Gold and Smile For London. Where can I find her work? At the Affordable Art Fair this October, or via her website. And keep an eye out for her first major solo exhibition early next year. phoebeboswell.com, affordableartfair.com
AMANDA DORAN, 25
OLIVIA BOSSY’S ILLUSTRATION FOR ‘ME-TAIL’
OLIVIA BOSSY, 29
What does she do? Graphic design and illustration, for an eclectic host of clients and displays – now part of Millers Junction (the studios attached to Print Club London in the East End). “I tend to draw a lot of lines,” the Aussie-born artist says. “People have said that my work is quite clean and delicate so I am now trying to make bolder statements.” Beginnings? Olivia studied at Queensland College of Art in Brisbane
and was employed directly from her degree show. “We started out as three people in a garage and within three years had grown to a company of 17,” she remembers. “The direction they eventually decided to go was a more digital one. It left me aching for the hand-drawn or at least for something physical and inky. I went freelance and then decided to move to London.” Breakthrough? She took on art direction for John Lewis. “Moving into my studio space and the next day winning a pitch as one lonesome illustrator against some big agencies was very satisfying.” oliviabossy.co.uk
What does she do? “Neo-punk” paintings. Part Picasso, part-Tim Burton, part popculture. “My style is bold, brash, expressive, gestural, colourful,” she says. “At times it can be sickly, overwhelming, hypnotic but also sensitive and relational.”(Pictured below: ‘Rick aka Zombie Boy’.) Early inspirations? “My uncle is the abstract painter Paul Doran. When I was little I would sit for hours and watch him paint. I had no idea why he was painting like this but I sat and learned because it fascinated me; it was so special because it could be whatever I wanted it to be, and the painting would change every time I looked at it.” Career highlights? Shortlisted for Saatchi New Sensations 2012, Amanda’s work has been purchased by AXA Insurance and a range of private buyers. Where can I find her work? Saatchi New Sensations Show, 9-14 October, and at amandadoranartist.tumblr.com
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ALISON STOLWOOD, 29
What does she do? Photographic pieces with moving image and animation elements. “Much of my work is based on observations of nature, and how technology has changed the way we see and understand the world,” she says (‘Painted Lady with Sedum and Sponge – Painted Lady with Sedum and Fruit’ above right). Career highlights? Stolwood has been selected for the 2012 Catlin Guide, and last year her work was chosen for the influential Bloomberg New Contemporaries show at London’s ICA. The piece, a photographic animation of a wasp’s nest spinning back and forth, has since been sold and exhibited at Preston’s Harris Museum. Where can I find her work? Photographers Gallery until 30 September; Wandsworth’s ArtEco gallery until 6 October. alisonstolwood.com
BECKY BOSTON, 26
What does she do? Edgy, stylistic paintings, many of which focus on marginalised, controversial subcultures, gender and sexuality. “I wouldn’t be happy if I didn’t have this outlet,” the self-taught, London-based artist says. “All I think about is painting.” Career highlights? “Winning a competition to have my first solo exhibition at Gallery 320 in Bethnal Green.” She’s also exhibited in a string of group shows across the East End and further afield, as well as at Saatchi Online. What’s next? “I’m working on my next solo exhibition in London,” or you can check out her paintings online. beckyboston.com, facebook. com/1beckyboston
BETHAN LLOYD WORTHINGTON, 29
What does she do? Stark yet poetic pieces incorporating drawing, installation and design – she studied Ceramics and Glass at the Royal College of Art. Earlier this year, she was selected for the prestigious QEST (Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Fund) Crafting Excellence show at Fortnum & Mason. Career highlights? “In 2009 I made a group of drawings relating to The Wild Places by Robert Macfarlane.The book had meant a great deal to me. Sometime later came an email: My name is Robert Macfarlane; I wrote The Wild Places. He said some kind and interesting things about the work, it was lovely to talk to him and he now has a boxed set of prints, with explanatory notes.” Where can I find her work? At the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green (pictured above). Be sure to check out her smashed porcelain sculpture in the De Montfort suite, and a glass piece spanning several fire exits on the 2nd floor. “I’m also working on a needlepoint tapestry for a project my shared studio – Manifold –is working on with The National Trust,” she adds. bethanlloydworthington.com
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PERNILLA OHRSTEDT, 32
What does she do? The London-based, Swedish-born artist makes big architectural design pieces, as well as experimental art and curatorial practice. She’s also co-founder of Flock, an interdisciplinary platform created in 2009 – exhibiting and supporting emerging female talents and bringing them to the forefront of art, architecture and design. Career highlights? She designed the Coca-Cola Beatbox pavillion building in the Olympic Park with Asif Khan, collaborating with Mark Ronson to create a blend of innovative sound technology and experimental design. Recently, she exhibited at London’s Roca Gallery, during London Design Festival. She’s also been shortlisted as Emerging Woman Architect of the Year 2012. Where can I find her work? Check out her joint exhibition with designer, and Flock co-founder, Simone Brewster at the Roca Gallery until 27 October. pernilla-asif.com uk.roca.com
Far left: Becky Boston’s ‘Erin’ and ‘I Can Shoot Quick and Straight as Anybody Can’; Right: ‘Pandora’s Comb’ by Pernilla Ohrstedt.
MICHAELA NETTELL, 31
What does she do? The Royal College of Art animation graduate makes short films and installations, often focussing on the interaction between glass and light. “I’m interested in spaces and relationships between stillness and movement,” she explains. Early inspirations? “I remember my Czech grandfather giving me drawing lessons when I was very young – he was a painter and a pianist. I was a little in awe of him I think, and I sensed that what he was sharing with me was very special.” Who buys her? Nettell created a lightbox work for the Town Hall Hotel in Bethnal Green (pictured above). Previously, she received the 2008 Wellcome Trust Arts Award with neuroscientist Hugo Spiers and sound designer Tom Simmons to create an installation that explored ways in which networks of brain cells recall memories. What’s next? Work for a site-specific exhibition in a church in Hampstead, curated by artist Piper Mavis, as well as a series of photographic images exploring hexagonal forms in the post-war architecture of East London. michaela-nettell.com
BOO SAVILLE, 32
What does she do? Alexander McQueen favoured the artist who has often been associated with New Gothic Art. Her pieces have combined traditional oil painting and print techniques with unusual media such as biros and household bleach (‘The Hollow Man’ pictured above). “My work is extremely obsessive, relentless and slow,” Saville says. “I’m never happy to sit still, I am always investigating.” She’s also moonlighted as a rapper in the band So Silage Crew. Beginnings? “I grew up very inquisitive about the world. I was lucky that my parents were both teachers who brought us all up in a very creative environment.” Career highlights? Last year (and in 2007) Saville was nominated for the Sovereign Painting Prize. Where can I find her work? Catch her third solo exhibition, The World, The Flesh and the Devil, at the TJ Boulting Gallery until 4 October. Consisting of powerful abstract colour fields (right, ‘The Viol, the Violet and the Vine’), it’s a departure from her previous representational work but is equally dark and emotive. Pieces are also on show in Soho House, London. boosaville.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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WHAT I’LL BE LOOKING OUT FOR AT FRIE ZE Frieze is a key moment for the art calendar. It’s a really busy time, so it’s difficult to keep track of everything happening that week, but I’m sure we won’t be disappointed.
MOLLIE’S
GUIDE
TO LONDON ART
MEL BOCHNER’S MASTER OF THE UNIVERSE, 2010, (C) MEL BOCHNER
No one knows the London art scene like Mollie DentBrocklehurst. She grew up in the ancient and crumbling Sudeley Castle, started her career at Sotheby’s, moved to the Gagosian Gallery and then became Roman Abramovich’s eyes on the art world. Now she’s bringing NY super-gallery Pace to London, just in time for art month
MUST SEE OCTOBER SHOWS Richard Hamilton, The Late Works at the National Gallery, 10 October-13 January 2013 (here: Portrait of a Woman as an Artist); Mel Bochner (left) at the Whitechapel Gallery 12 October-30 December 2012. 38 | AMUSE
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MOST MEMOR ABLE E XHIBITIONS I’VE SEEN THIS YE AR David Hockney’s A Bigger Picture at the Royal Academy of Arts. These large-scale paintings are fabulous. Tate Modern’s Gerhard Richter exhibition. There will also certainly be Adam Pendleton, a show which we opened on 19 September at our Lexington Street space. Adam is so engaging, smart and dynamic.
FAVOURITE IMAGE IN A LONDON GALLERY Mark Rothko’s Red on Maroon (1959) at Tate Modern. This painting is absolutely beautiful and inspiring. I could stare at it for hours. We’re opening our 6 Burlington Gardens’ space with an exhibition which will brilliantly juxtapose Rothko’s late black and grey paintings (Untitled, 1969, oil on canvas, pictured) with Hiroshi Sugimoto’s contemporary photographs of bodies of water. This show will mark the first private gallery presentation of Rothko’s work in London in nearly 50 years so Rothko is obviously one of my favourites.
FAVOURITE LONDON GALLERIES Kate MacGarry katemacgarry.com Maureen Paley maureenpaley.com Nettie Horn nettiehorn.com These galleries have an amazing space and always put on great shows.
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MOST INTERESTING NE W GALLERY Pace London, of course! Because it will be Pace’s second expansion outside the US after Pace Beijing, which opened in 2008. David Chipperfield has been in charge of the renovation of the space – it’s really exciting.
TOP THREE UP AND COMING TALENTS TO WATCH French-born, Moroccan-based photographer, Yto Barrada American painter and performance artist, Adam Pendleton Argentinian sculptor, Adrián Villar Rojas (work pictured)
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MOTHER OF AN IDEA Maia Norman’s label, Mother of Pearl, works with artists from Gary Hume to Polly Morgan, but will she ever join forces with former partner Damien Hirst asks Lydia Slater
PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTSANT: LUKE FREEMAN; MAKE-UP ERIKA DE LA BARQUERA
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Photography: Alistair Guy
he rollcall of distinguished contemporary artists reads like something the Saatchi Gallery might put on. Gary Hume, Keith Tyson, Carsten Holler (who put the slides into the Tate Modern), Mat Collishaw and his wife, taxidermy artist Polly Morgan… All have collaborated with fashion label Mother of Pearl, which splashes their prints across everything from stealth-luxe silk shirts to baseball boots. But Damien Hirst, that giant of the contemporary art scene, is missing. And not merely because of the difficulty of translating a perspex box of maggots into an appealing print. For almost 20 years, Hirst has been the partner of Mother of Pearl’s creative director Maia Norman, with whom he has three sons. But in June, it was reported that Maia had left him for dashing ex-serviceman ‘Tumbledown’ Tim Spicer. Consequently, the subject of Hirst is a sticky one, even when we’re merely discussing artistic collaboration. “I’ll never say never,” says Maia, reluctantly. “His work would be beautiful, a lot of it.” We have met at the Mother of Pearl studios in Clerkenwell. Maia, 50 (but you’d never guess) is posing for pictures in front of a Hirstdesigned surf board, covered with butterfly wings, each of which, she says, had to be resined separately. It’s probably worth millions, so it’s a good thing she’s never actually used it. She might easily have done so however: alongside art, sport is Maia’s obsession. She rides trail bikes, horses and skateboards, surfs, shoots, and competes in the annual Gumball car rally – this year, in a car tricked out by the American artist Richard Prince. Norman first came up with the idea for Mother of Pearl in 2007
when she became fed up with the unstylish sportswear on the market. Two years later, the concept was refined to include the artistic collaborations. But the clothes, while being far too luxy to wear for sport, retain some practical features. Tops are loose, so the wearer could ride away on her trail bike, for instance…(Norman has arrived at the studio on a brand-new bright-blue motorbike, a 50th birthday present to herself.) “I wanted the feeling that you get when you wear a pair of motocross trousers,” she explains. “Part of riding motocross is wearing the gear and seeing those amazing techniques with the taped seams – we’ve integrated some of those. It exudes a feeling of being able and fit and prepared. You never feel like a victim.” Today, Norman is wearing a Mother of Pearl loose-cut top, emblazoned with a brightly-coloured Fred Tomaselli print from the autumn/winter collection. Tomaselli is famed for his psychedelic collages covered in polished resin, and at first glance, the shirt looks like it’s adorned with an attractively complex and colourful butterfly print. Look more closely, and you see the main feature is a flayed male silhouette, internal organs on display. The butterflies appear to be attacking him. It is undeniably rather disturbing as well as gorgeous. Head designer Amy Powney, meanwhile, is wearing a shirt adorned with a pattern of songbirds massacring one another. “Nothing is what it seems!” laughs Norman. “Fred has got a great sense of humour – and quite a demented mind.” Understandably, Mother of Pearl is a label that only appeals to the more intellectual celebrity: Tilda Swinton is a fan and Sophie Okonedo wore the savage birds to the Baftas. “It has to be people who can carry it off, not reality TV stars.” AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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DRESS, POA, Mother of Pearl, AW12 Above: Norman with her ex-partner, Damien Hirst at the launch of Mother of Pearl in 2008 (Rex Features) 42 | AMUSE
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In a fashion world where refined waifery is almost de rigueur, Norman, with her shaggy blonde mane, cat-like features and petite, compact frame, stands out like a lion in a pack of world-weary gazelles. She stalks around the studio in purple and black Prada heels and skinny Miu Miu trousers, a folding knife suspended around her neck – “I’m a bit of a knife collector”. Her left hand is adorned with a giant diamond solitaire and, bizarrely, a ring-shaped tooth flosser. Around her wrist is a silver bracelet made in the form of a car hose clip, echoing her love of motorspor ts. Unashamedly outdoorsy, Norman can only bear to stay on her houseboat in Chelsea for a couple of nights a week. Otherwise, she’s in North Devon with her teenage sons Connor and Cassius, and sevenyear-old Cyrus, indulging in the passion for outdoor sports she’s had since her own childhood. Brought up in Orange County, California, she was a keen body surfer who appeared twice in Surfer magazine. She was equally interested in fashion, scouring thrift stores to put together her eccentric outfits; her mother, Jean, made all her prom dresses. Norman wanted to go to art school but after her stepfather abandoned the family to manage rock bands, her mother couldn’t afford the fees. So Norman parlayed her way into a variety of fashion and artrelated jobs: she was the muse for an LA designer called Jim Riva, worked as a proofreader for Women’s Wear Daily and as a graphic designer on a record label. In 1983, she left America for the Sorbonne in Paris. “Going to Paris definitely made me grow up, that’s for sure,” she says. “I was
a salty-haired beach girl and, at the time, California was the outback.” She met graffiti artists such as Keith Haring and hung out with the hip-hop crowd and fashion photographers, then she moved on to London, where she went to a job interview at jewellery designer, Erickson Beamon, in nothing but an oversized Fifties bathing suit. Hired on the spot, she swiftly rose to the position of head designer; then she went into art direction, working on pop videos for Paul McCartney and Joni Mitchell and hanging out with Leigh Bowery, Tom Dixon and Georgina Godley. “That was a fun time too,” she says mildly, clearly understating the case. She was dating Jay Jopling when she first met Hirst in the early 1990s. He was then a penniless artist, living in a rented room in a council block. They fell in love and she began helping out, painting spots on his spot paintings and driving him to maggot farms and to hospitals to collect defunct medicines for his works. You can’t help but wonder if Hirst’s rise to colossal fame and fortune has brought with it a lifestyle that is simply too conventional for her? Norman veers away from the discussion – “it’s a tender moment”, she explains, and she doesn’t want to upset her former partner. But her life now is quite different. “I do have to call on my inner strength. I am excited, of course I am. I feel like I’m going to be more creative and more focused than I think I have been, which is good.” She and Hirst remain on good terms. “We talk on the phone, we crack jokes. He is still the father of my children and he’s been an amazing father and an amazing best friend and an amazing partner.” And perhaps, in future, an amazing fashion collaborator too.
She went to a job interview with Erickson Beamon wearing nothing but an oversized Fifties batching suit. They hired her on the spot
THE POWER BEHIND THE BRAND Lancashire-born Amy Powney, 28, was recruited to join Mother of Pearl immediately after graduating in fashion from Kingston University. She was made Head Designer in 2009. “Fred Tomaselli was the reason we started working with artists. Maia always wanted to do a Fred print, but when she first asked him, he said no. He felt the brand wasn’t ready. We were talking about it and I said, ‘Why don’t we collaborate with artists each season? That’s where your world and my world come together.’ And that’s how it started. I was never sure if I should do fashion or art, so this is my perfect job. I’ve been with Mother of Pearl ever since leaving university and I’ve had five years of watching the label evolve. We’re growing it bit by
bit, launching a jersey line and a scarf range. We’re also going to be doing our own patterned sneakers. “Finding a new artist is a really interesting process. Maia has always initially brought them in. Then I research them and see what it is they do. Just taking their work and slapping it onto a piece of clothing wouldn’t interest me – it would just look like something in a museum gift shop. It has to be a collaboration. I have a dialogue with the artist while I’m working with them. You have to progress the work otherwise it’s a bit pointless. For instance, Fred Tomaselli’s artwork had the bird carnage on a black background and it didn’t have the stripes. In the future, I’d love to do something with Jeff Koons. It’s a scary thing to take someone’s life work and
change it into fashion. I’m always really nervous when I send the artists the pictures, but so far, everyone we’ve worked with has been thrilled with the results. Obviously the print changes every season, so I have to bring it back to the Mother of Pearl ethos so that the buyers and the customers aren’t getting a completely different look each time. We always do easy pieces styled in a sporty way. We’re growing all the time and we’re very popular in Korea, China and Russia – all the places where people aren’t afraid to wear colour and print. Mother of Pearl is available at The Shop at Bluebird, Harrods and Selfridges, motherofpearl.co.uk
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eason after season, Greek-born fashion designer, Mary Katrantzou (who originally studied architecture), has combined her love of art with that of structure taking in Fragonard paintings, the crushed car sculptures of John Chamberlain and the Fabergé-inspired trompe l’oeils of her seminal ‘lampshade’ collection. “It is always interesting to take something that has great craftsmanship and place it in a different context in a different scale,” she says. “Relating a work of art to a woman’s body changes the nature of the piece. Yes, the disciplines of fashion and art have a real symbiotic relationship. ” Of Katrantzou’s AW12 offering, with its proliferation of spoons, pencils, hedges and, notably, chess pieces painted onto the butter soft leather overlay of the Powdy dress we shot for this month’s
fashion story: “I don’t think it was initially [inspired by the Surrealist movement] but that’s the way it turned out. I think there’s something very surreal and kind of tongue-in-cheek about them. It was the first time we’d looked at the object as a repetitive motif and not as a blown-up object as we did with the Fabergé eggs. It was about taking my drawing of a pencil and repeating it 700 times and using it to create a tornado of pattern.” Of course, fashion and art have previous. Yves Saint Laurent explicitly referenced the ‘Composition’ paintings of Dutch artist Mondrian with his Mondrian day dress of 1965 (wool jersey in colour blocks of white, red, blue, black and yellow) – arguably the birth of colour blocking – and revisited more recently by Christian Louboutin with his Mondrian wedge. Anyone who watched the film Coco Chanel & Igor Stravinsky will know that Gabrielle Chanel designed costumes for Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes – alongside fellow collaborators Picasso, Matisse and Dali. These days, it’s Gareth
PHOTOGRAPHER: DANIELE + IANGO. CREATIVE DIRECTOR: ANDREA TENERANI.
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Fashion and art have always struck sparks off each other, and never more so than now, discovers Stephanie Hirschmiller
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has since become a key part of the label’s DNA. Cue two capsule collections featuring everything from drop-waisted dresses to the signature Monogram Town Speedys in which Kusama’s signature polka motif is repeated in a myriad of different scales. Fashion newcomers, CSM graduates, Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle of Leutton Postle bonded over their Textiles BA. Their luxe knitwear label scooped the Vauxhall Fashion Scout Merit Award last year for its inaugural SS12 show and was immediately snapped up by Browns Focus. The duo favour a figurative approach and their AW12 knitwear collection is reminiscent of Picasso thanks to “Sam’s loopy drawing style” explains Jenny, but this is actually the result of their research into Nigerian textiles with reverse appliqué. “The illustrative element was something that grew naturally out of working as textile designers,” she says. Cacharel designers Ling Liu and Dawei Sun drew inspiration for their AW12 collection from the Bauhaus design movement – particularly the work of Hungarian painter Moholy Nagy which informs the patterns of dresses, skirts and even their tights. They cite “geometry and symmetry” and “the beauty of clean and sharp lines” as the main attraction of the Modernist movement as translated into fashion design. Scottish-born designer Holly Fulton, too, is known for her geometric patterns and simple shapes. She hand draws all her Deco graphics to scale before they get anywhere near a computer – “I’m hopeless with computers anyway,” she admits. The Royal College of Art graduate began her studies at Edinburgh College of Art where drawing was a fundamental part of the course. “It’s still important for me as it allows you to shape the print in a more engineered fashion round the body.” Fulton’s AW12 collection with its intricate use of tubular lines, 70s flourishes and pop colours, is influenced in part by the graphics of psychedelic pop artist Peter Max. His “sinewy psychedelic twists and almost pinball machine graphics” are ref lected in her Raspberry Split dress. But it’s not all about pop artists. British handbag supremo, Anya Hindmarch looks to the Old Masters for inspiration: her Cruise 2012 collection, ‘The Pomp and T h e P l e a s u r e ’, f e a t u r e s Gainsborough’s Portrait of a Lady in Blue across Gracie shoulder bags, zip clutches and canvas shoppers. Parisian photographer and blogger, Garance Doré, (sartorialist Scott Schumann’s other half ) who is known for her keenly observed fashion illustrations, has crossed the divide in the other direction. ‘Toutes les Filles sont Folles’, her recent capsule collection for New York label Kate Spade, features her trademark annotated drawings themed around a soigné cocktail party (look out for Doré’s selfportrait – she’s the one in the ruffled mini having a cigarette). For her, fashion and art are ideal companions. “They are forever linked,” she enthuses, “and there are so many ways in which you can mingle them together, be it in prints or a concept or a fashion show in 3D. I mean people like Alexander McQueen – he was art.”
Gainsborough’s ‘Portrait of a Lady in Blue’ adorns Anya Hindmarch Gracie shoulder bags, zip clutches and canvas shoppers
Pugh maintaining the tradition – designing the costumes for the Royal Opera House’s Carbon Ballet, earlier this year and more recently those of the Pet Shop Boys in the Olympics Closing Ceremony. When it comes to artist/designer collaborations, the late graffiti king and Warhol collaborator, Steven Sprouse’s print monograms for Louis Vuitton certainly proved a benchmark – not least because they arrived in 2001, the glory days of the ‘It Bag’ – and their scribbled take on the LV monogram helped to propel the label from a classic luggage marque into the global fashion consciousness. The house’s recent hook-up with the reclusive Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama could well do for dots what Sprouse did for graffiti and (posthumously) for leopard print – which Marc Jacobs introduced in 2006, following a pattern Sprouse developed before he died – and
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JOSEPHINE With a career that spans modelling, acting, singing and songwriting, Josephine de la Baume is building a new empire, says Lorelei Marfil
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NECKLACE, ANN DEXTER JONES (ANNDEXTERJONES.COM) AND RINGS, ZARA SIMON (ASTLEYCLARKE.COM)
“I
think when you are slightly unsatisfied, it drives you to do bigger and better things,” says Josephine de la Baume in a soft, French purr. “I’m actually a glass-is-half-empty kind of person and I have to work on that. I think in a way it’s not negative. I wouldn’t say I’m negative, but I am always slightly unsatisfied. Which pushes me to go further and further.” De la Baume, 27, has no reason to feel dissatisfied as far as I can see. The Anglo-French actress, singer and model has smouldered in Agent Provocateur adverts, starred in Johnny English Reborn with Rowan Atkinson and One Day with Anne Hathaway and appeared in Julian Fellowes’ Titanic. She is also the lead UK judge for MARTINI Royale Casting, a competition to find the brand’s new face. A songstress at heart, she started a band, Singtank, with her brother Alexandre. And she’s one half of music’s most gla morous couple, hav ing married Mark Ronson (the bride wore Zac Posen, the groom wore a red and white striped Richard Ja me s a nd R ayba n s) la st September. De la Baume was born in Paris and grew up in the close-knit bohemian 6ème arrondissement, Saint Germain des Prés. “A lot of artists lived there and there are a lot of galleries. Everybody kind of knew each other in the neighbourhood,” explains de la Baume. “There were always a lot of writers and playwrights at home.” Her father is a financier turned theatre critic and producer and her mother works with a youth foundation. “My father is a real intellectual. He surrounded himself with smart people. He reads a lot and is like a living encyclopedia. He’s very passionate,” she
says. “My mother is more of an eccentric and always made us laugh. She was born in England and I think she has a British sense of humour.” One of four siblings, she studied ballet for nine years before turning to drama at the American University in London. She took courses at the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art and attended the Black Nexxus drama school in New York. Her acting career took off when she landed a small role in a small French costume drama, The Princess of Montpensier. “Luck is an attitude. You make your own luck,” says de la Baume, to explain her break into film. ‘You really have to grab opportunities and that’s how I’ve worked the whole time. In low moments, I didn’t lose hope. I never let go, I was always holding on and I really tried to transform difficult times into something I would learn and grow from.” When she’s not acting, de la Baume is writing songs and recording music. Her most recent record, In Wonder, is, she says, about being “in a phase where you are asking questions to yourself. There’s a notion of questioning. There’s an idea of something mar vellous and wonderful. It’s about being in a state where you are half in reality and half in a dream. It’s a state that my brother and I are always in. We are in the process of growing up. Music can make you fall in love or it can make you depressed or it can make you happy. It shapes your mood. It’s amazing how it can change your mood of the day.” As well as taking inspiration from Pulp, her brother’s jazz and the classical music her parents listened to, de la Baume’s lyric writing is personal. ‘Big Smith’ on this album is “a song about someone who is quite lost in their vices. It’s full of love but also full
‘Of course Mark’s a brilliant producer but we didn’t grow up listening to the same music. His taste is more soulful than mine’
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BLUE JUMPSUIT ON OPENING SPREAD £675 RICHARD NICOLL (RICHARDNICOLL.COM) ALL OTHER CLOTHES JOSEPHINE’S OWN.
Left:Joséphine de La Baume and Christian Louboutin attend the global launch of the MARTINI Royale Casting. Above right: Josephine with Mark Ronson at The Music Producers Guild Awards, Cafe de Paris, London 2012
of the sadness and loneliness of when you are quite overwhelmed by your own addictions. It’s a very personal story about someone that is quite close to me. When life is sad for someone, you look at it thinking how can I help this person? There’s something quite beautiful about loneliness.” As far as future musical collaborations go, de la Baume is considering teaming up with Ronson – after all, the DJ and music producer has manufactured hits for everyone from Robbie Williams to Adele via Amy Winehouse and the Kaiser Chiefs. “I’m not against it,” she admits. “But we were already working with Nellee Hooper [who has an equally good track record that includes Madonna and U2]. Of course [Mark] ’s a brilliant producer but I don’t know if we’d be able to concentrate. And then again, we didn’t really grow up listening to the same music except for hip hop. His taste is maybe more soulful than mine which is more rock.” The couple met in 2009 and married in Aix en Provence in front of guests including Kate Moss and Lily Allen. Peaceful domesticity has been put aside in the past year as the couple’s work commitments mean a furiously busy schedule. “If I’m working on a movie the pick-ups are normally 5:45am,” says de la Baume. “So I wake up, drink a lot of coffee, then get on set. I do a lot of period drama so I try to keep my hair long. Mr Selfridge, [an Andrew Davies mini-series about the man who created the department store] happens in 1909, so the hair is very interesting. I keep it in the evenings just to have a little laugh.” On the other hand, when she’s recording, “we start really late around midday. There’s a lot of eating crisps and drinking beers. And often I am the only girl in the studio. Normally, we work till pretty late and eat a lot of junk food. There are no windows so you can’t tell what time it is. Which is kind of good to be creative in a way. We finish around midnight, 2am.” Her recent projects include the MARTINI Royale Castings competition, with a panel that included the designer Christian Louboutin. “It’s been very interesting seeing all these girls and being on the other side for the first time. I wasn’t the one sitting
down doing an audition. They were all strong women with a very positive attitude. Some of them have had really tough times and they try to appreciate life and pursue their ambitions. So I think it’s important to hold on and believe in your dreams and not lose faith.” Downtime for the couple means travelling, particularly to the Hamptons near New York, where Ronson spent his teens. “We’re more in Amagansett.” she says, “ It’s a bit less chichi than East Hampton or South Hampton. It feels more like a fisherman’s town. The beaches are really wild. We try to go out of season because it gets really crowded. We have a bunch of friends there. I just started surfing and we eat a lot and drink a lot of rosé. We go to the beach every day and we drive out to different restaurants. Our life on holiday revolves around food and drink. When you are by the sea, you want to eat as much fish as possible. I wished I cooked more but I don’t really cook very well.” But when she does spend time in the kitchen, she takes her cues from her mother. “My mum taught me how to cook a little. But she is much better than I am. I do a cream picata. It’s veal with cream and wine sauce and potatoes with Provençal herbs. I tried cooking chicken with prunes and mustard the other day. It was not very successful but I tried.” Favoured haunts in Londoninclude Maggie Jones and the Wolseley. Unsurprisingly, with her schedule as frantic as it is, her aim is to live every day as though it were her last. “It’s heavy but it’s true,” she confirms. “I lost one of my best friends recently and out of that, one of the first things that has come to mind is ‘yes, do live every day fully’. Don’t do things you don’t want to do – it’s not worth it because life is very short and you never know what’s going to happen. Otherwise, you end up forgetting how to live. You can be so overwhelmed with work. That was the best lesson I took from something very sad. When you are mourning someone it is a reminder that we’re not eternal so we should do whatever makes us really happy first.” Josephine de la Baume is the UK judge for MARTINI Royale Casting 2012. Vote for the UK finalists at facebook.com/MARTINI
‘I lost one of my best friends recently and one of the first things that has come out of that is to live every day fully’
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© Kirtsy Mitchell
Metal ships hung in the trees for ‘The Faraway Tree’ were photographed one rainy night in a Surrey Wood.
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A LIFE THROUGH
A LENS
The death of her mother made Kirsty Mitchell, 36, reappraise her life, quit her job and turn to photography. There was no grand plan, but gradually her projects got more and more fantastical... AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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© Kirtsy Mitchell
It took months to create ‘Ghost Swift’. Mitchell cut out all the hundreds of butterflies by hand.
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I
will always remember the day my mum called me to say something was wrong. My father was driving her to the hospital in the small French village where they had retired briefly for a ‘five year adventure’. She said she was seeing double, and was worried because she was the only one who could speak any French. I flew out immediately, she was screened, but no one could find what was wrong. Months passed and finally they discovered a tiny shadow on her brain. A tumour. From then, her decline was rapid, horrible and unexpected. She was diagnosed in April 2008 and died in November of the same year. She was 63 and I was 32. My brother, my father and I were devastated. I had never imagined I would lose her; I have never felt so utterly helpless and frightened. She was my best friend and the most inspiring woman I had ever met. She was a teacher who could hold a class spellbound. A bewitching storyteller, always with her head buried in a book. When she read out loud it was as if you were truly there, flying on a magic carpet, or locked in an evil queen’s dungeon. She had wanted to learn art at school but she attended a ver y strict grammar school that did not allow art as a subject, so her creativ it y wa s cha nnelled through literature and escaping into books. She used to get me to teach art classes to her pupils when I was 18, it was always lovely to be with her in the classroom. It was during her treatment that my photography began to spiral from a hobby into an obsession. I spent hours walking the streets on my own taking photos of people who reflected how I felt – sad people, lost people, homeless people. Eventually I started photographing myself (for a series I called ‘Nocturne’). These were my ways of expressing what I was going through. Some were incredibly sad, others were fantasy where I was trying to block out what was happening by pretending to have another life. After we lost her, my rejection of real life snowballed and running
away to create a make-believe world in the woods became my private therapy. So this was how ‘Wonderland’ began. My concept was to create a storybook without words. ‘Wonderland’ is a collection of unexplained scenes from unexplained stories that allows the viewer to make up their own ideas about what is happening. It was never intended to become the enormous journey it turned into; it simply started as a small summer project. I had no experience, no money, and no idea what I was doing. I just had the finished visions in my head and set about trying to make them as best I could while I was working full-time as a senior designer for the fashion retailer Karen Millen. As things progressed the project created a huge amount of excitement among fellow photographers and many other people who discovered it, even those who claim not to ‘like art’. I think it resonates with people – the pictures aren’t part of actual stories yet you feel as if you can remember a distant part of them somehow. Online the project gained a huge following. I put this down to the fact that the scenes are real. In a world of CGI, these pictures are not the result of Photoshop special effects. My focus is to create fantasy for real using anything from smoke bombs glued to umbrellas, to painting trees and making giantesses out of models wearing eight-foot dresses. Doing it this way is my personal kick and I get a surge of adrenaline out of experiencing the moment. It would feel empty just creating stuff on a computer. I like being out in the wind and rain and you can’t get beautiful natural light sitting in front of a computer. Photography for me is all about emotion. I have now given up my day job as a designer and have turned to photography full-time. And now my pictures are being bought by collectors. By working the way I do, I consider myself more of an artist than a photographer as I make or design almost everything within the frame myself, with the help of the hair and make-up artist Elbie
‘It was during my mother’s treatment that my photography became an obsession. I spent hours taking pictures of sad people, lost people’
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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Š Kirtsy Mitchell
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Left: ‘Lady of the Lake’; above from left: Costume for Ghost Swift, Kirsty’s late mother Maureen, Kirsty Mitchell.
Van Eeden, and the occasional kindness of friends. There are no large support teams, designers or stylists involved. In a few cases I use vintage pieces and customise them by painting, dying, or beading them but I never use anyone else’s clothes or props. Despite the obvious connotations, ‘Wonderland’ was never intended as a link to Lewis Carroll’s story. It was my personal wonderla nd, where the characters and their worlds were the blurred fragments of book illustrations, and the memories of my mother’s words. Nothing was a direct recreation of a particular tale, this was about creating something new for people to lose themselves in and make up their own ideas of what was unfolding before them. Every image has meant so much to me and the tiny team I work with. It’s always this huge mountain to climb, to create bigger and better scenes. At times it has felt pretty impossible, but somehow we always manage scrape through. The ‘White Queen’ pictures are definitely the hardest I have ever attempted, and took five months to create. No one ever believes the ships from ‘The Faraway Tree’ were real and actually up in the branches. It was quite a terrifying shoot on a cold windy October night, deep in a
Surrey wood. The lighting we used was all homemade cables my husband Matthew, an architect, had wired together with normal light bulbs, powered by a little domestic generator. It was basically a death trap if it rained, and sure enough it started to spit the moment we powered everything up. It had taken about five hours to get it all in position. My friends were clambering around in the branches desperately trying to wire the heavy steel ships in place, while I stood in the dark, my heart pounding, trying to direct everything as best I could. There was a point when I thought we would have to give up, but when it finally happened and the power kicked in, I just couldn’t believe I was there and it was real. That is the moment that always makes it worthwhile. It is impossible to describe how it felt to be bathed in the light of those magical ships, with the whoops of my friends echoing through the darkness, it was such a feeling of utter delight and sheer childish wonder, it was one of the most exciting moments of my life. Throughout all this I never imagined anyone would understand the emotion I felt behind the camera, and yet it somehow comes across. I receive a huge amount of emails from people who have lost their own parents or family members and I am so humbled by the things that they have shared with me, and say they see in my work. Following a BBC News piece about my work in Ju ne , it wa s pa r t ic u la rly emotional to be contacted by a number of my mother’s ex-pupils. There was a sudden surge interest in me after I created an installation for the Jubilee on a billboard in Regent Street. People from all walks of life sent me photos of themselves standing in front of the prints. One girl wrote to me to say she went to the installation with her friends on the fifth anniversary of her mother’s death. For people to share such deeply personal moments like that with me is beyond anything I ever imagined. Selected works from the ‘Wonderland’ series are on show at Quaglino’s until 13 November. kirstymitchellphotography.com; Macmillan.org.uk
‘I never intended it to become the enormous project it turned into – I had no experience, no money and no idea what I was doing’
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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FASHION IN THE
FRAME How to be a smarty arty
HOLLY FULTON
Photography: Fabrice Lachant Styling: Fran Mullin
EARRINGS, £150; ROLLNECK, £200; and SKIRT, £425, all Holly Fulton (hollyfulton.com). SILVER SHOES, £350, Terry de Havilland (tdhcouture.com) 58 | AMUSE
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ASHISH SILK SCARF DRESS, £324; MIRRORBALL SEQUINNED SHIRT, £675; and SEQUINNED SMILEY FACE TEE, £486, all Ashish (brownsfashion.com). SHOES, made to order, Ashish for Topshop (topshop.com)
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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LEUTTON POSTLE PATCHWORK DRESS, £1,140, Leutton Postle (brownsfashion.com) 60 | AMUSE
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LEUTTON POSTLE SWIRL DETAIL DRESS WITH NUDE PANELS, £1,080, Leutton Postle (as before) AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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MOTHER OF PEARL KERES SHIRT, £345; CULOTTES, POA; and SHOES, POA, all Mother of Pearl at The Shop at Bluebird (020 7351 3873) 62 | AMUSE
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ISSEY MIYAKE GREEN TROUSERS, £780; GREEN JACKET, £970; and BLACK STUFFED COAT, £1,880, all Issey Miyake (020 7851 4620). MIRROR BALL EARRINGS, £145, Lulu Frost (Liberty.com). EMPIRE HEELS IN METALLIC LEATHER, £675, Sergio Rossi (020 7811 5950) AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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MARY KATRANTZOU DRESS, £6,750, Mary Katrantzou (Selfridges.com). GOLD SHOES, £295, Terry de Havilland (as before)
Make Up: Ian Brown using MAC Cosmetics Hair: Claire Grech of Foster London, (fosterlondon.com) Fashion Assistant: Katie Tillyer Model: Rhea @ Models1
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PAM HOGG CATSUIT AND BONNET, made to order, Pam Hogg (pamhogg.com)
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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TOP COATS From military to princess, get your cover story sorted styling by Katie Tillyer
Model Vanessa at Premier Make-up by Lisa Potter-Dixon, Head Make-up and Trend Artist at Benefit Cosmetics Hair by Matilda Lansdown at Foster London 66 | AMUSE
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1 COAT, £114.99,
Mango, mango.com TOP, £300, Tim Soar, avenue32.com TROUSERS, £240, Paige, Selfridges selfridges.com SHOES, £139, Guess, 020 7079 3810
2 CAPE, £109.90, Benetton, shop. benetton.com SHIRT, £60, Cheap Monday, 37/39 Carnaby Street SKIRT, £295, Goat, Fenwick SHOES, £495, Terry de Havilland, tdhcouture.com, SOCKS, £8, Transparenze mytights.com
3 COAT, POA, and SHIRT, £290, Paul & Joe, 020 7824 8844 TROUSERS, £70, Peter Jensen, UK Style BELT, £60, Paul & Joe SHOES, £150 Ganni, ganni.dk
4 COAT, £175, and TROUSERS, £69, both COS, cosstores.com SHIRT, £80, Ganni, plumo.com CLUTCH, £20, ASOS, asos.com BOOTS, £190, KG Kurt Geiger, kurtgeiger.com
5 COAT, £648,
DVF, dvf.com TOP, £39 and SKIRT £55, Three Floor, threefloorfashion. com SHOES, £50, ASOS, asos.com
6 COAT, £640, Rag & Bone, 020 7730 6881 SHIRT, £19.90, Uniqlo, uniqlo.com TROUSERS, £125, Filippa K, liberty.com SHOES, £140, KG Kurt Geiger.
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ACCESSORIES
Riding boot, £329, Ursula Mascaro (020 7493 8224)
Riding boot, £845, Ann Demeuelemeester (farfetch.com)
Libby boot, £109.99, Vagabond (vgabond.com)
Brown open heel boot, £480, Pollini (Box Boutique)
Footwear with attitude for Autumn showers. By Fran Mullin
Wedge ankle boot, £288, See By Chloe (my-wardrobe.com)
Tekel boot, £160, Unisa (unisa.co.uk)
Black ankle boot, £95, Urban Outfitters (urbanoutfitters.co.uk)
Patent leather ankle boot, £716, Givenchy (ln-cc.com)
Black heeled boot, £425, Theyskens’ Theory (020 7985 1188)
Paddock ankle boot, £370, McQ Alexander McQueen (my-wardrobe.com)
CATWALK: ALEXANDER WANG AW12
Jusin boot, £165, Pied A Terre (020 7258 3605)
GIVE ’EM THE BOOT
68 | AMUSE
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Oscar boot, £665, Alejandro Ingelmo (Dover Street Market)
Dadonis heavy sole boot, £110, Topshop (topshop.com)
Celta boot in black and white, £1,170, Sergio Rossi (020 7811 5950)
Black leather boot, £485, Alexander Wang (shoescribe.com)
Sangria boot, £99.99, Tamaris (tamaris.de)
Blue shoe boot, £895, Nicholas Kirkwood for Erdem (020 7290 1404)
Tank Biker boot, £90, Schuh (schuh.co.uk)
Daikayama boot, £95, Office (office.co.uk)
Floral boot, £100, Dr Martens (drmartens.com)
Chelsea boot, £409, Marc Cain (marc-cain.com)
Buckle shoe boot, £189, Reiss (reiss.com)
Wedge boot, £179.99, Gestuz (gestuz.com)
Gwynne buckle boot, £195, French Connection (frenchconnection.com)
Black Olea boot, £260, Paul Smith (paulsmith.co.uk)
Harper leather boot, £435, Rag & Bone (harveynichols.com) AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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BE AT THE HEART OF BRITISH FASHION Clothes Show Live is everything you love about fashion. The UK’s top designers. The country’s hottest trends. And the nation’s biggest catwalk show. This is British fashion at its best. Show your love. Be at the heart. Book your tickets now at: www.clothesshowlive.com
LIVE
CLOTHES
SHOW
IN ASSOCIATION WITH SUZUKI
Official ambassador of Clothes Show Live 2012
7-11 DECEMBER 2012
NEC BIRMINGHAM
5
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trends
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Heavy metal
From pewter to gold, it’s a 24 carat trend says Fran Mullin
PORTS 1961 AW12
1
14
16 17 15 18 1. Purple metallic shopper bag, £14.99, New Look (newlook.com) 2. Sequinned skirt, £182, Love Moschino (farfetch.com) 3. Pointed metallic leather collar, £140, 3.1 Phillip Lim (net-a-porter.com) 4. High-waisted silver shorts, £35, Topshop (topshop.com) 5. Silver jeans, £40, Littlewoods (littlewoods.com) 6. Grandad collar sleeveless shirt, £89, Reiss (reiss.com) 7. Metallic bag, £370, Bao Bao Issey Miyake (020 7495 2306) 8. Lamé jacket, £255, The Kooples (thekooples.co.uk) 9. Metallic silver sandal, £295, CH Carolina Herrera (020 3441 0965) 10. Metallic trousers, £75, Super Trash (supertrash.com) 11. Metallic leather peplum top, £330, Gerard Darel (gerarddarel.com) 12. Cassiopeia belt, £595, Eden Diodati (edendiodati.com) 13. Metallic clutch, £274, Jil Sander (farfetch.com) 14. Blue metallic crop, £34.99, H&M (hm.com/gb/) 15. Metallic leather dress, £670, Drome (harveynichols.com) 16. Silver shoe, £95, Urban Outfitters (urbanoutfitters.co.uk) 17. Metallic brocade dress, £985, Stella McCartney (harveynichols.com) 18. Metallic t-shirt, £28, Dorothy Perkins (dorothyperkins.com) AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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trends
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Year of the dragon
...and phoenix and poppy and all things oriental 19
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1. Floral acrylic bow bangle, £11, Chelsea Doll (chelseadoll.co.uk) 2. Dragon jumper, £30, River Island (riverisland.com) 3. Cuff, £360, Jean Paul Gaultier Swarovski-crystallized (swarovski-crystallized.com) 4. Pendant, £298, Thomas Sabo (thomassabo.com) 5. High-waisted pencil skirt, £619, Caterina Gatta (farfetch.com) 6. Arabella kimono black, £45, Darling (darlingclothes.com) 7. Jasmine printed skirt, £55, Phase Eight (phase-eight.co.uk) 8. Green petal smudge print blazer, £650, Vanessa G (vanessag.co.uk) 9. Blood clot dress, £455, Thu Thu (thu-thu.com) 10. Bright blue shirt in Japanese style, £45, Miss Selfridge (missselfridge.co.uk) 11. Pink collar, £95, Bora Aksu (boraaksu.com) 12. Oriental front tee, £18, Jane Norman (janenorman.co.uk) 13. Ginger jungle clutch, £2,247, Barbara Boner (barbaraboner.co.uk) 14. Cheongsam dress, £96, Tara Starlet (tarastarlet.com) 15. 5 Blessings signet bracelet, £150, SHO Jewellery (shojewellery.com) 16. Fairytale brocade headband, £139, Stone Bridge (stone-bridge.co.uk) 17. Structured oriental dress, £55, River Island (riverisland.com) 18. Nello earrings, £19, Anita Singh (ACHICA.com) 19. Anais silk fitted shift dress, £225, LK Bennett (lkbennett.com) 20. Marrakech enamel bangle, £140, Halcyon Days (Achica.com) 21. Uttam Brown Oriental floral smock dress, £44.99, New Look (newlook.com)
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trends
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Girls will be boys
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Androgynous looks were all over the runways, so belt up for Autumn
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15 1. Burgundy Chagall Shoe, £280, Paul Smith (paulsmith.co.uk) 2. Wide-brim trilby, £59, Reiss (reiss.com) 3. Alpaca coat, £139, Autograph by M&S (marksandspencer.com) 4. Magcia vest, £40, Monki (monki.com) 5. Black suede shorts, £406, L’Agence (stylebop.com) 6. Lucky wishes coat, £230, French Connection (frenchconnection.com) 7. Long grey salopette, £50, Topshop (topshp.com) 8. Pintuck trousers in Tobacco, £22, TU by Sainsbury’s (sainsburys.co.uk) 9. Bronze lace-ups, £89, Plumo (plumo.com) 10. Gracy tweed single-breasted coat, £345, LK Bennett (lkbennett.com) 11. 1970’S brown velvet bow tie, £65, Atelier Mayer 12. Bowler hat, £16, Crafted at Republic (republic.co.uk) 13. Grey tweed trousers, £45, Topshop (topshop.com) 14. Studded moccasin, £59.99, Zara (zara.com) 15. Eli bonded trousers, £600, Acne (acnestudios.com) 16. Grey tweed coat, £65, Topshop (topshop.com) 17. Coat, £315, Marc Cain (marc-cain.com)
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aMuse Magazine 2012: Aaron Basha advertisement (Right Hand Read)
Aaron Basha Boutique • 685 Madison Avenue • New York • 212.935.1960 • w w w.aaronbasha.com Athens
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London
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Moscow
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Tokyo
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Toronto
Harrods, Knightsbridge
AdTemplate.indd 1
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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN AW12
Cruella de Vil is in seventh heaven this season 16 18 17
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1. Orange fur trimmed sandals, £544, Emilio Pucci (stylebop.ocom) 2. White cheetah Saturday bag, £605 Feather.M (Wolf and Badger) 3. Coat, £159, Sisley (sisley.com) 4. Raccoon fur gilet, £1,369, P.A.R.O.S.H (farfetch.com) 5. Gloves with fur cuffs, £505, Causse (brownsfashion.com) 6. Black fur bag, £812.69, Maison Du Post (luisaviaroma.com) 7. Fiona shearling peplum pencil skirt, £650, Acne (my-wardrobe) 8. Two-tone cashmere and fox fur coat, £2,441, Yves Salomon (stylebop.com) 9. Black fur coat, £229, Ted Baker (tedbaker.com) 10. Fur boots, £500, Vivienne Westwood (020 7439 1109) 11. Swarovski crystal and velvet waist belt, £675, Lanvin (net-a-porter.com) 12. Grey coat with fox collar, £2104, Emilio Pucci (stylebop. com) 13. Black fur collar, £1,295, Theory (020 7985 1188) 14. Green coat with fur collar, £675, Theory (020 7985 1188) 15. Fur bag, £155, Vestiaire Collective (vestiairecollective.com) 16. Flannel grey faux fur gilet, £270, DKNY (my-wardrobe. com) 17. fur gloves, £145, Marc Cain (marc-cain.com) 18. Clanis fox and leopard print weasle gilet, £2,245, Hockley (hockleylondon.com)
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Every year 30,000 children in the UK are born with a genetic disorder.
Modelled by Jade Thompson
You could make a big difference for them. Organise a Jeans for Genes Day on Friday 5th October and together we can raise money for the support and care they really need. Order your free fundraising pack
Jeans for Genes ® and ™ © 2012 Genetic Disorders UK. All rights reserved. Registered Charity Number: 1141583.
W1000 IN
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£VOUCHER TO SPEND ONLINE
Established in 1934, Ettinger is a family-owned British luxury leather goods company which still hand crafts all its luxury leather goods products in the UK. Beautifully designed and using the finest quality leathers, Ettinger products will last a lifetime. To enter the competition please visit www.amusemagazine.co.uk/ competitions or email competitions@amusemagazine.co.uk with the subject line ‘Ettinger’. Good luck!
www.ettinger.co.uk tel: 020-8877-1616
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A
m a n
a b o u t
NICK COX
t o w n
Real men don’t get paid to pose in their underpants
DANIEL CRAIG AS JAMES BOND IN SKYFALL, METRO-GOLDWYN-MAYER PICTURES/COLUMBIA PICTURES/EON PRODUCTIONS
I
prefer Bond to Beckham. Do you blame me? I’m searching for a role model who’s dangerously masculine, not one who gets paid to pose in his underpants. In an era when style can lack substance it’s no surprise that guys are looking to the past and, with his sharp suits and braggadocio, 007 continues to inspires us. Bond is back and he’s turning real men into raving retrosexuals. Dressing to kill means finding a tailor. A ‘bespoke lounge suit is the essential kit for being Bond’ according to Chris Potter, senior cutter at Ede and Ravenscroft, and nothing beats the confidence his customers gain by having cloth custom-cut and tailored to their bodies. Who needs washboard abs and gym sessions when a Savile row suit can create the illusion of an athletic physique? What’s more, men of all shapes and sizes are exchanging their off-the-peg tuxedos for expertly tailored black-tie suiting and they are asking for ‘Roger Moore’s peak lapel and Daniel Craig’s shawl collar.’ When it comes to gambling, and we all know how Bond loves a spot of chemin de fer, the smart money is on Fitzdares. This thriving private members telephone betting company is far more chic than online bingo or flying down to Vegas, and it offers an extraordinary secret service. In true Bond style clients are referred by word of mouth and advertising is avoided. Its aim is to foster the same relationship with a bookmaker that men would ‘have with their bank manager or priest’ according to co-founder Balthazar Fabricius, and it’s working. Even better, with ‘MEN ARE ASKING plans to open a room in Robin Birley’s club at 5 Hertford Street in Mayfair, it won’t be THEIR TAILOR FOR long before members can sip a vodka martini ROGER MOORE’S while being quoted fixed odds on spreads. A peculiarly British fusion of moss, coumarin PEAK LAPEL OR Over in Old Street, stylish guys are also and vetyver, it’s the olfactory equivalent of a tuxedo which makes it perfect for evening signing up to the Classic Car Club and DANIEL CRAIG’S dates. Gadget fans will also love the flacon’s becoming ‘automotive swingers’ These savvy SHAWL COLLAR’ retractable twist cap which would not look thrill seekers wouldn’t be seen dead at the out of place in Q’s workshop. wheel of a 4x4 so they purchase packages of points to redeem for days of So it’s time to turn back the clock and turn on the charm. vintage driving instead. Owner Nigel Case has seen a steady stream of men After all who wants lessons in the art of manliness from a requesting his 1970s’ Aston Martins, and claims that ‘driving these hairychested V8 monsters makes you feel like a man!’ Hell you can even slide man his wife calls ‘goldenballs’? Whether it’s dressing to kill, behind the wheel of the car that Timothy Dalton drove in The Living Daylights driving at speed or just kicking back with a martini at our and all without the commitment, expense or hassle of actual ownership. turf accountants we’re happiest being Bond because it’s a And what if I told you that in the year that marks his fiftieth anniversary damn sight more ballsy than being Beckham. it’s also possible to smell like Bond? It may be tricky to distill the essence edeandravenscroft.co.uk fitzdares.com of an icon, but one spritz of this recently launched aromatic fougère classiccarclub.co.uk 007 should have even couch potatoes reeking of daring masculinity. AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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Beauty U n n a t u r a l
b e a u t y
BETHAN COLE
ON THE HUNT FOR SOMETHING NEW
JOHN VIAL HAIRSTYLING, COURTESY OF FUDGE
S
ome months ago, influential fashion website ‘The Business of Fashion’ ran a story called anti-retro. Claiming there was a backlash against the hipster ubiquity of vintage and retro fashion, beauty and lifestyle – from pin curls and red lipsticks for women to moustaches and Ian Curtis haircuts for men. I’ve got to say despite a deep fondness for retro, (similar to the woozy instinctive love I have for mashed potato and comfort food) – I was very attracted to the thesis. Although I found myself wondering just how much evidence there was of genuinely new fashion and beauty trends. Sure, digital prints, wedge-heeled trainers, dip-dyed hair and coloured or sequinned eyebrows do seem like fresh gestures, unique to our young century. But, let’s face it, they are few and far between and finding them feels like panning for gold in a very muddy creek. It’s compounded by catwalks that offer up supposedly new trends, that are actually old ones repackaged, every six months. I was talking about all of this with the very talented hairdresser, Fudge Creative Director, John Vial, recently. Vial, 43 who was a protégé and friend of the late, great Vidal Sassoon, and worked at of Josh Wood’s much-feted Real Hair, was snapped up by street-smart Australian hair brand Fudge earlier this year. He’s got a loyal following among fashion insiders including the immaculate Harvey Nichols’ Creative Director, Paula Reed, and colourful artist and lecturer ,Julie Verhoeven. Anyway Vial and I were lamenting the lack of truly new looks. I wanted a short fringe cut in but of course there’s nothing new with that. The short fringe refracts back to Guido’s Joan Of Arc ‘THIS FEELS FRESH, cuts on Karen Elson in the Nineties, the ALTHOUGH THERE’S Eighties’ hair of artist Helen Chadwick, A ALWAYS THAT Bout De Souffle and even Bettie Page. tired now that’s its been around for three NAGGING FEELING I’ve had a history with the style – had one summers. Daring creatives certainly favour cut in 2006 by Johnnie Sapong and before the two-tone look right now – make-up artist THAT ZANDRA that in about 1998 by Eugene Souleiman. So Alex Box has had a centre parting with one RHODES MIGHT nothing new there. We talk about a contrastside of her hair white and the other black for HAVE DONE IT IN THE dyed fringe with his colleague and Global a while now, Julie Verhoeven’s last hair head of training, Tracey Hayes, as seen in concept with John and Tracey involved dying LATE SIXTIES’ the Lanvin AW12 ad campaign. This feels fresh, although there’s always the front half of her head yellow and the back turquoise. While retro is still lovely, in this jaded world, it’s worth that nagging feeling that Zandra Rhodes might have had this colour statement striving for originality. I went for a brutalist short fringe in back in the late Sixties when she was frequenting Leonard’s salon and starting the end – with a violet contrast dyed fringe and streak. to experiment with brightly coloured hair. Tracey feels that dip-dye is a bit 80 | AMUSE
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COLOURS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: My Very First Knockwurst Don’t Pretzel My Buttons Berlin There Done That Don’t Talk Bach to Me Schnapps Out of It! Deutsch You Want Me Baby? Danke-Shiny Red Suzi & the 7 Düsseldorfs Every Month is Oktoberfest German-icure by OPI Nein! Nein! Nein! OK Fine! Unfor-greta-bly Blue
lena white
Available at Colourcopia Westfield White City, Professional Salons and Select Fine Department Stores.
For more information about OPI call 01923 240010 or visit www.lenawhite.co.uk MODEL IS WEARING DON’T TALK BACH TO ME
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Beauty News GET THE GLOSS With decades of experience in
3
the industry, Susannah Taylor (left) and Sarah Vine are two of the most well-informed beauty journalists around. After careers at Vogue and the Times, they have collaborated to create getthegloss.com a one-stopshop for all things beauty. You'll find the latest trends, make-up tutorials, a country-wide directory of top therapists and all the hottest product launches. getthegloss.com
OF THE BEST
FALSE-LASH MASCARAS BOURJOIS VOLUME GLAMOUR MAX, £5.99 One for....tight budgets. But it's our star buy. The only one of the three that actually had people question whether our lashes were real. CHANTECAILLE FAUX CILS MASCARA, £35 One for...subtle extension. This gives more of a lengthening effect, great for during the day. DIOR SHOW EXTASE, £23 One for....building up volume. A lovely formula, that allows you to build without clumping.
WORDS: ARABELLA PRESTON
TRY ME… For: Faking it, Bambi-style What: Semi-permanent eyelash extensions Where: Perfect Eyelashes, Blythe Road, Olympia Who: Agnes De Santos What it's like: Agnes is the Queen of Lashes, her mini empire is spreading across London and the Kensington branch is the latest to open its doors. The treatment itself is simple and surprisingly relaxing. After discussing the look I was going for and showing me some of the different lengths and thickness of lashes, a cooling collagen pad was placed onto my lower lashes to condition them while the upper lashes were applied. I then proceeded to gently snooze on the soft bed while Agnes worked her magic. An hour later, and there were the most beautiful, natural looking flutterers. I was given a list of instructions to give the lashes their maximum life span (no contact with water for 48hrs, no oil-based cleansers, no trying to pull the lashes off, your own will come off too). Results: I hate my eyes without make-up, but felt confident leaving the salon with just my new lashes. These have to be the best bangs for your bucks when it comes to beauty treatments, my eyes feel lifted and awake and oh so pretty. Details: £70. 020 7602 7040, perfecteyelashes.co.uk
ELECRTIFYING CURRANT Our favourite natural ethical
brand, ila, has launched a new face scrub. Finely ground blackcurrant produces a dark colour, while Cotswolds Honey gives the texture. You can use it every day and it leaves your skin feeling great. £38 ila Face Scrub for Glowing Radiance. ila-spa.com
THE BIG BEAUTY BOOST As any expert will tell you, it's all very well looking after your skin
from the outside, but it's what you do from the inside that will really have lasting results. The new Beauty Boost programme from Radiance Cleanse has been created with a leading dermatologist to address common skin disorders such as acne, rosacea and eczema through antiinflammatory ingredients (though it's perfect for minor niggles too). Prices start from £245 for a 3-day cleanse and you'll also receive advice on supplements and lifestyle. radiancecleanse.com
NEW YORK KNOWHOW
Estée Lauder was 44 when she launched her eponymous brand, so no surprise perhaps, that her granddaughter, Aerin has waited until her forties to repeat history. Aerin, which launches this autumn, is a delicious line of beauty essentials (think rose hand cream and delicate lip balm) and hard-working, multi-purpose products. We love the luminising cream blush and moisturising nude lipsticks: perfect for on-the-go touch-ups. Exclusively at Harrods. 0870 034 2566 AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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Beauty TRY ME… For: complete relaxation What: a hot-stone massage Where: The Spa at Bluebird What it’s like: It’s hard to explain why a
CHANEL PIRATE £25
MAC RUBY WOO £14
massage using black volcanic basalt stones, heated to a point just below pain, would be more relaxing than a massage using just fingers and thumbs, but it is. Perhaps it’s the extra pressure the masseuse can bring to bear, maybe it’s the heavy, hot, stones that stay resting on your spine, warming you through while your legs and arms are being pummelled into submission. Whatever the reason, I floated off into a state of near-insensibility and only came back into consciousness very reluctantly. Results: I drifted off down the Kings Road feeling as though my feet were scarcely touching the pavement and still felt looser five days later. Contact and price: £115 for 75 minutes, theshopatbluebird.com
HOURGLASS GLOSS ICON £23 LAURA MERCIER ROUGE AMOUR £20
CHANEL LIP DEFINER 57 £17.50
GUCCI AW12
BURBERRY DEEP BURGUNDY £22.50
SEEING RED
Mouths are rich, dark and obvious this season, but it’s important to proceed with caution, says Arabella Preston
D
ark gothic lips were all over the Autumn Winter catwalks, most brilliantly courtesy of Pat McGrath at Gucci. They are easier to pull off than appearances suggest, especially when properly applied and matched with a perfect base (remember to disguise dark circles and blemishes properly, otherwise the look will be ghoulish). Laura Mercier, herself a committed lipstick wearer, is a keen promoter of a bold red lip. “I have always had a love affair with lipstick,” she says, “particularly red as I think it’s a great colour to experiment with. If you’ve never tried to wear red, you should give it a go. Red lipstick on a bare face is a signature look of mine.” The application is key. First, Mercier recommends massaging your lips with lip
CLARINS RED PRODIGE £17.50
NARS AUTUMN LEAVES £18.50
balm, then dusting with a little translucent powder. This helps the lipstick to hold and gives it staying power. She then suggests picking a lip-liner to match your lipstick and “drawing the colour from the outline to the inside – you don’t want to see a dark obvious outline.” For the lipstick itself, “use a lip-brush to gently take off the colour from the lipstick and apply with light strokes to your lip area starting at the bow.” If you’re fair-skinned or your style is classic, stick to the truer reds, if you’re brunette or just fancy a bit of subversion then rock one of the dark cherry shades. If you can’t make your mind up then Laura recommends experimenting with different shades when you have no other make-up on. “That way you get a genuine idea of how complementary it is to your skin tone and other features.”
BY TERRY CARNAL ATTRACTION £31
YSL THE MATS 206 £23.50
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FREE
BEAUTY TREAT FROM
L’OCCITANE
Plus an exclusive 15% discount on any purchase! To celebrate the launch of the new limited edition Shea Butter Collection, natural beauty brand L’OCCITANE is offering readers of aMuse Magazine an exclusive, pampering treat. To start, there is the complimentary VIP treatment: a glass of French Rose wine on arrival followed by a mini facial and a luxury hand & cuticle massage. Then, once you’re fully pampered and relaxed, there is a choice of a free product to take home. Choose between the new Radiance and Colour Care Shampoo or Conditioner, to preserve your hair’s radiance and shine, leaving it soft and easy to style. Or why not choose the Lavender Shower Gel or Body Lotion, formulated with the finest lavender essential oil from Haute-Provence to create a sensorial moment of wellbeing and delight. And finally, if all this wasn’t enough to tempt you, there is an exclusive 15% off any purchase made on the day – all you need to do is present this page to qualify. So you might say Christmas has truly come early this year! To redeem this fantastic offer, call one of your local L’OCCITANE boutiques and book a complimentary appointment. The offer will be available at 13 stores across London, for the full list please visit www.loccitane.co.uk/amuse. Places are limited, so book early to avoid disappointment! Present this coupon at your complimentary appointment in store to collect your free L’Occitane product. Name: ______________________________________________________________________________ Address: ____________________________________________________________________________ Postcode: ___________________________________________________________________________ Email: ______________________________________________________________________________ By supplying your details you will become a L’Occitane VIP. This entitles you to receive invitations to VIP-only events, previews of new products and exclusive offers. L’Occitane will not pass on your details to any other company. If you do not wish to become a VIP and receive offers from L’Occitane by email or post, please tick here [ ]
* Terms & Conditions: This offer is valid until 31st October, while stock lasts. Free product choice is dependent on stock availability. Appointments for complimentary mini facials and luxury hand massage must be booked directly with the participating L’OCCITANE boutique in advance to ensure availability. This page must be presented in-store to redeem the offer
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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TRY ME…
MAC FACE & BODY, £20.50 A CLASSIC, NOW IN A CONVENIENT 50ML ML BOTTLE. IT’S SHEER AND LIGHT, BUT ONCE ON AND DRY, IT WILL NOT BUDGE.
What: Skinceuticals delicate skin repair and strengthening treatment by Debbie Thomas Where: Hari’s Old Brompton Road What it’s like: a Salicylic and Mandelic acid peel sloughs off dead skin cells and clear pores. It stings but not unduly so and as these acids belong to the Hydroxyl family they also rehydrate the skin. There follows a facial massage that left me luxuriating like a cat having its chin rubbed. I think I may have purred. Then it’s two rounds of red light therapy applied over vitamin C gel and cream to help eliminate free radicals and ultrasonic therapy via a vibrating brush to revive cell tissue and smooth the appearance of fine lines. This is one satisfyingly techie, resultsdriven facial. And best of all there’s no need to skulk out of the salon with a McQueen visor concealing a scarlet complexion. My skin felt dewy and soft and actually seemed to regenerate further over successive weeks. Debbie is an epidermal alchemist. Details: Harissalon.com £135 or £165
LAURA MERCIER TINTED MOISTURISER COMPACT , £33
THE CULT TINTED MOISTURISER HAS BEEN LAUNCHED AS A COMPACT. TOUCH-UPS ARE NOW A NECESSITY.
SHISEIDO RADIANT LIFTING FOUNDATION, £37 A CREAMY, MEDIUM COVERAGE FOUNDATION, THIS DOES A LOVELY JOB ON SOFTENING THE APPEARANCE OF FINE LINES.
URBAN DECAY NAKED SKIN, £27
A REALLY HARD-WORKING MEDIUM COVERAGE, NATURAL FOUNDATION. USE WITH ITS UNIQUE FOUNDATION BRUSH FOR A FLAWLESS FINISH.
BARE MINERALS READY SPF20 FOUNDATION, £25 AT SELFRIDGES.COM
CHANEL SS12
ESTEE LAUDER INVISIBLE FLUID MAKEUP, £27
FOUNDATION COURSE
At last there’s a foundation for every skin tone, says Arabella Preston
I
t’s been a great year for foundation launches, from the innovative Invisible Fluid from Estee Lauder, to reworked classics from Laura Mercier and Chanel, there’s something for everyone. Our stand-out launch has to be the YSL Le Teint Touch Eclat, a light-weight, yellow-toned concealer that really delivers on coverage whilst retaining luminosity. What’s most impressive however, is the incredible range of shades most of these foundations come in. Finally, women of all colours are being catered for, we just can’t believe it’s taken so long.
THE FIRST PRESSED FOUNDATION LAUNCH FROM BARE MINERALS IS A LOVELY LIGHTWEIGHT POWDER THAT CREATES A GENTLE SHEEN ON THE FACE AND ALLOWS THE SKIN TO BREATHE.
BURBERRY VELVET FOUNDATION, £34
ULTRA LIGHTWEIGHT, THIS IS MORE OF A SKIN TINT, BUT IT’S REALLY LONG WEARING AND CREATES A GORGEOUS ‘NO MAKE-UP MAKE-UP’ LOOK.
IF YOU’RE BORED OF THE ‘DEWY’ LOOK THAT HAS DOMINATED THE PAST FEW YEARS, TRY THIS FOR MATTE, BUT NOT CHALKY SKIN.
YSL LE TEINT TOUCHE ECLAT £28
YSL HAS REWORKED ITS MAGIC TOUCHE ECLAT FORMULA INTO A ULTRA-HYDRATING, GLOWING FOUNDATION. WE LIKE.
CHANEL VITALUMIERE AQUA COMPACT, £39 OUR FAVOURITE LIGHTWEIGHT FOUNDATION NOW COMES AS A COMPACT. PERFECT FOR TAXI TOUCH-UPS.
86 | AMUSE
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Join the skincare revolution Voted no.1 premium skincare serum in Japan*
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Reveal skin’s inner light * Maquia Magazine **Clinical tests conducted by
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Beauty
LIPSTICK SOS
T
WITH CHANEL AND aMUSE
his is the season to embrace a bold lip, with dark reds and burgundy and wine stains seen all over the AW catwalks. We can’t think of anyone better to advise us than Chanel with their latest Rouge Allure shades. On 9 October, Chanel make-up ambassador and international and celebrity make-up artist, Kay Montano, will be at the Chanel pop-up boutique in Covent Garden along with our beauty editor Arabella Preston, for a day dedicated to helping you find your perfect lip colour. Perhaps you don’t feel your lipstick is flattering. Perhaps you simply fancy a change. Or maybe you’ve never worn a lip colour and feel now is the moment to take the plunge. Whatever your reasons, come along and see us for a special day devoted to Chanel Rouge Allure
and finding your perfect match. We’ll teach you how to apply a lip shade to suit you and give you tips on making the colour last, plus advice on how to make the rest of your make-up complement the look. A consultation costs £25 and is redeemable against any beauty purchase on the day, plus you will also receive an exclusive Chanel beauty gift. The Chanel pop-up boutique at Covent Garden is a space dedicated to beauty, the first of its kind, and is full of treats and temptations for beauty junkies. Come and join us for a day of inspirational beauty. To book your consultation, call Chanel at Covent Garden on 020 7240 2001. 9 October, 11am-8pm AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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BARE NECESSITIES
How do you turn a hippie bubble bath brand into a beauty powerhouse? Ask Leslie Blodgett of bareMinerals says Stephanie Hirschmiller
S
he’s been credited with revolutionising the beauty industry with her bareMinerals brand of mineral-based make-up and regularly performs the splits on stage at company conferences so it’s pretty hard to believe that executive company chairman, Leslie Blodgett, 50, has ever felt intimidated by anyone. But it hasn’t always been thus. When she started her career in Eighties New York Blodgett failed to get a job on a Christian Dior beauty counter: “I’d worn my best suit, but I don’t think I was sophisticated enough for them, at that time.” Even later on, she admits shopping online at Bergdorf Goodman as she was too scared to make it through the door. Now she has her own in-store stylist who lines up her favourite designers when she’s in town – Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen. Just as it should be for a woman who singlehandedly took Bare Escentuals, then an ailing bath and body company with a slightly hippie ethos, to grossing around $7m a year in the mid-Nineties, to the powerhouse that went public just over a decade later with a turnover of $550 million. It was snapped up by Shiseido two years ago for $1.7 billion. From the start, she recognised the potential in the mineral-based make-up that the company offered as a sideline and ran with it. “I thought, ‘this is amazing, let me take this and turn this into a brand’.” And so bareMinerals was born. She attributes much of her drive to her mother who brought up
her children (Blodgett is the middle of three) alone following a messy divorce. “She really pushed me. She wanted to make sure that I knew I could be independent of a man, that I had to make my own money and be successful. I was never good enough and I was always trying to please her. She would say horrible things like ‘you’re gonna be a waitress for the rest of your life if you don’t get your shit together!’ But if it weren’t for her doing that I don’t know what I’d be doing now.” Indeed, in her own household, it’s Blodgett who is the breadwinner. Her husband Keith, a freelance programme maker, stopped working when their son Trent was born some 20 years ago. “We made a deal before I got pregnant,” she explains, “that whoever had the good job was the one that was going to be working.” She does admit to early tensions, though: “Keith didn’t feel emasculated in any way, he loved what he was doing. I was always the one causing trouble. I became extremely envious that he got to see Trent every single day. And I would get mad…” When she was head-hunted in 1994 to run Bare Escentuals, she was 31 and had been working in cosmetics development at Revlon and Max Factor before moving into marketing for Neutrogena’s haircare business. She hadn’t even heard of the company – there were only eight retail stores in the US as opposed to its current 200-odd – and her son was just a baby, but she took the risk and upped sticks from LA to San Francisco. It was a hard slog but the pivotal moment came in 1997 when Blodgett’s bareMinerals became the first make-up brand to advertise on QVC and her products sold out in six minutes flat. The idea was
‘My mother really pushed me. She’d say things like “you’re gonna be a waitress for the rest of your life”’
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a result of her insomnia watching TV in the middle of the night when she couldn’t sleep with worry: “The only shows that were on were horror movies and QVC and I just thought, ‘let me see if I can get my make-up on the show’. I didn’t have money for advertising.” Blodgett still professes to be something of an introvert when it comes to addressing an audience. “I was petrified for the first seven years on QVC, I felt sick every time. But that’s why I do dances onstage as I don’t get stage fright then,” she says by way of explanation for her motivational antics. So what is the secret of her success? Word of mouth and personal engagement from the outset. A lady called QVC customer services
with a question which Blodgett answered personally – “I was excited to know one person was actually watching,” she laughed. The lady (who lived in the remote American Midwest) introduced her to the user forum – a precursor to our social media and she was hooked – constantly interacting with, and listening to, her customers. Those customers moved the forum off QVC and developed their own called B Addicts. “I’m telling you,” she says, “this company has evolved solely because of the connection with these women. It’s one thing to have a great product with no one using it, but here was a great product that people were using and were freakin’ ecstatic about.” bareMinerals READY SPF 20 Foundation launches in the UK on 1 October, exclusively at Selfridges and Selfridges.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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THE
MIDAS
TOUCHE Terry de Gunzburg invented Yves Saint Laurent’s Touche Eclat, the bestselling luxury beauty product of the last two decades. Can she storm the market again with her own perfume range, asks Bethan Cole
S
troll through the streets of South Kensington, and you often find yourself wondering what’s behind the elegant stucco facades of some of the those pristine white houses that look like they’ve been coated in royal icing. I’ve been inside a few, but often these homes, interior-designed to within an inch of their lives, are disappointingly generic and devoid of artistry: the Identikit Louis Quinze ornate chairs, the swagged blinds, the polite neutral colour schemes. But the same cannot be said of the positively awe-inspiring home of 57-year-old beauty maven Terry de Gunzburg. Enter her living room and you are within inches of some of the most important
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artists of the late 20th century. A quick scan takes in a Twombly, at least three vast Bacons, a Rothko and, through to the dining room a wonderfully quixotic Basquiat, writhing and alive with his characteristic skittering technicolour graffiti – it spans a whole wall. If you were venal or covetous or interested in art valuation and the associated sums, you might find yourself totting up the millions of pounds that all these works are worth. But if you are purely interested in the aesthetics and impact of living with such prodigious creativity, you feel lifted, stimulated, awed even: that wide-eyed gasp of wonderment that you feel in a well-curated gallery. And interestingly, these are not artworks of prettiment, like say Monet’s impressionist garden at Giverny, acquired to effect a kind of gentle, watercolour ambience in a room. Some of them are downright difficult and challenging, for example there’s an unremittingly black Bacon in one corner with a twisted AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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Above and bottom left: the interior of de Gunzburg’s Kensington home. Left: The haute perfumerie range. Right: creating the fragrances.
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approximation of a human torso at its heart, the flesh so raw, contorted and bloodied it almost resembles an assemblage of freshly butchered pork chops. Perhaps even more impressive still, many of these works have hung in de Gunzberg’s and her husband, Jean’s, houses for decades. They were snapped up when the artists were either relatively unknown or languishing unwanted in the art-market doldrums. They have not (as is so often the case these days) been acquired, cynically, like stocks and shares, as a kind of profiteering exercise, only to be resold two years on. They are paintings and sculptures that have been lived with and loved for decades. Art to last a lifetime and children’s and grandchildren’s lifetimes too. “People are buying art now for all the wrong reasons,” observes the eloquent French woman dispassionately. “For all the wrong reasons and all the wrong pieces. It’s become a fashion item and attending art events – like the Biennales and Frieze – has become like sitting on the front row of a fashion show.” It is surprising that there is very little of fashion or beauty to be seen in this house, especially when you consider that Terry worked as the creative director of Yves Saint Laurent make-up for over 20 years, (inventing the Touch Eclat concealer, the best-selling ‘premium’ make up product of the last two decades, in 1992) and then founded her own beauty brand, By Terry, in 1998. But there is art, there is colour, there is sculpture and there are interesting furnishings – the sofa we are sitting on is a 1940s curvilinear carmine red Jean Royere piece, eminently collectable and rare. The house, which has f ive bedrooms, is spacious, airy and immaculate. De Gunzburg, (who speaks in precise English with a strong French intonation and looks a bit like a slender, immaculately put-together Russian Matryoshka doll from one of YSL’s Seventies collections – all red lips, smoky eyes, sleek bob and dirndl skirt) and Jean have seven children between them (four are hers and three are his – all from previous marriages) and they have been together now for 20 years. For a long time he was a research scientist focussed on cancer; now he has his own Biotech firm. The couple live fulltime in South Kensington with two of their younger sons, but there is also a house in Paris, to which Terry decamps five days a month to manage her business on that side of the channel. “We moved here seven years ago,” she explains, “But it took two years to refurbish it.” Jacques Grange, the interior designer who did all of Yves Saint Laurent’s houses, worked on it. Although as Terry points out, the art and the furniture are all her and her
husband’s choices – “there was no advisor!” Some of the art was inherited from De Gunzberg’s husband’s family, who have considerable wealth, but other works were just collected on impulse, for their appeal. “For example we have an Anselm Reyle,” she explains, “we bought it 15 years ago for $2,000 dollars. It was nothing. The price is crazy now.” De Gunzburg is ahead of the curve – not only with art. Over lunch in her elegant dining room, underneath a sizeable, glittering, antique chandelier, she reminisces that back in the late Eighties, she created a lipstick duo for YSL, a black and a red, designed to be mixed and layered for dramatic effect. The company never let it go into production because they considered it too extreme, but then, five years later, Chanel launched its legendary Rouge Noir, the blackish red lip and nail hue that was sported by Uma Thurman in the film Pulp Fiction and subsequently became a global bestseller. Terry’s sixth sense, had been vindicated. Now there is a new collection of five perfumes. But they are not just some marketing whim. They have taken 12 years of painstaking development to create. De Gunzburg selected the most notoriously expensive production company Robertet to create them, because they are famed for the high quality of their raw materials. She was very specific about what she wanted her noses to create – crucially she rejected 1,000 iterations and prototypes before alighting on the five that are launching this autumn. (To put that in context, it was recently revealed that Madonna – notoriously picky –went through 300 versions before selecting the scent we now know as Truth or Dare). With my favourite, Ombre Mercure, we are talking about the very specif ic smell of the haute bourgeoise Frenchwoman en déshabille. The smell of a model wearing stockings (and very little else) in a Klossowski painting, of Catherine Deneuve in Belle Du Jour or indeed of some inscrutable French feminist intellectual such as Julia Kristeva, who you might imagine, favours a slash of blackred lipstick and very expensive silk underwear as her guilty pleasures. Ombre Mercure is the sort of fragrance Guerlain should be making today, a logical continuum from masterworks like Shalimar and Mitsouko, an arch, sophisticated, oestrogen-laced chypre with iris butter, patchouli, violet and camphor-like vapours. “As with art,” muses de Gunzberg, “I know what is good and what is not good but I don’t know how to paint it!” In this case, the finished ‘works’ – the perfumes – are indisputably monumental. Terry de Gunzburg Eau de Parfum collection: 100ml Spray £105, 50ml Spray £68, exclusively available from Harrods. Byterry.com
‘We are talking about the very specific smell of the haute bourgeoise Frenchwoman en déshabille’
AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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the strength of diamonds
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aMUSE
abroad by SUE RYAN
ROMAN HOLIDAY
A ‘living art gallery,’ the Rome Cavalieri hotel is known for its exquisite collection of old-master paintings, including a staggering Tiepolo triptych in the tearoom. Now, it also has the key to the doors of hidden Rome, and what could please an art lover more than to go places normally off-limits? The Via Giulia art tour will guide guests round the Church of San Giovanni dei Fiorentini, down the hidden stairway to Borromini’s underground crypt and unlock the Museum of Sacred Art, explore the Oratorio del Gonfalone, and visit the privately owned Palazzo Sacchetti. Marvellous. A guided tour for two guests with the Rome Cavalieri costs £800 for ‘The Secrets of Via Giulia’. Nightly rates start at £300 for a deluxe room, including breakfast and VAT, romecavalieri.com
ART USA
America is the place to be this month if you want to buy a Banksy or a Warhol. Three Banksy canvases go on sale at Bonhams’ inaugural Los Angeles Urban Art sale on 29 October. Precision Bombing, one of the graffiti artist’s most recognisable images, is estimated at $35-45,000; Lenin on Rollerblades ($30-50,000) and Winnie the Pooh (both pictured above, $50-80,000). Meanwhile, in New York, the Eykyn Maclean gallery features Andy Warhol’s Flowers paintings from 1964 and 1965; a mix of silkscreen, pencil, acrylics, and Day-Glo paint. The Andy Warhol Flowers exhibition runs from October 30-8 December at Eykyn Maclean, 23 East 67th Street, 2nd Floor, New York, NY 10065, eykynmaclean.com Bonhams LA Urban Art sale, bonhams.com
ART AT BEDTIME
Enjoy contemporary art, without bothering to leave your bed, at the Hyatt Regency’s Churchill Hotel in London’s Portman Square. The bedroom, the ‘Limited Edition Saatchi Gallery Suite’, houses a selection of pieces from the ad man’s gallery and can be booked until the end of December. Quirky works include a door that knocks by itself and a bathroom with a wall-to-wall soap installation, where guests can scratch messages. When you do finally get up, the Raspberry & Balsamic Caipiroska cocktail is so pretty it could have been designed by an artist. From £840 including VAT for two. Guests have private check-in at the Regency Club, access to the Regency Club Lounge, complimentary continental breakfast, cocktails and canapes between 5.30pm and 7.30pm. london.churchill.hyatt.com
PLUG THIS
If you’re packing your capsule carry-on, remember to find a space for the brilliant Mu® USB Smartphone Adapter. It’s a plug, but it folds up to a tiny 14mm squared, so no more pins sticking into your luggage lining and scratching your i-phone. PG Mu® USB Smartphone Adapter, £25, themu.co.uk AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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aMUSE
abroad by SUE RYAN
BOOK IN How are you on the great Moroccan writers? One of the world’s greatest hotels, La Mamounia, plays host to its own literary award this autumn. The panel had to decide between seven books by Moroccan writers published in French to determine who should claim the £14,000 prize. The iconic Marrakech hotel is itself worthy of a novel. It reopened its doors three years ago this month and has hosted the Who’s Who of international royalty, politicians, celebrities and the jetset in its 136 rooms, 71 suites and three Riads – each sporting three bedrooms, private terraces and private swimming pool. Room rates at La Mamounia start from £456 in a Hivernage Classic Room, per room per night mamounia.com
GOING DUTCH
SOME TURKISH DELIGHT
Excitement builds for one of the hottest 2012 hotel openings in Istanbul. Art has played a major part in in the creation of the 270-room Marti Istanbul, as will be revealed when it opens this month. The interiors have been designed by Zeynep Fadillioglu, celebrated for being the first woman in Turkey to design and build a mosque. It is home to two pieces of art from
Carnegie prizewinner Kutlug Ataman, including ‘Su’ – a visual water projection in the impressive atrium. The location in Taksim, the shopping, cultural and commercial heart of the city (and within easy reach of the bazaars), could not be more perfect. Marti Istanbul is offering two nights including breakfast, a Marti Martini, a half-day walking tour of the Beyoglu district with a guide, or an Istanbul Museum Pass valid for 72 hours and late check-out. Starts from £188, including taxes per person for two nights, martiistanbulhotel.com
The new 122-room Andaz opens in Amsterdam this month on the site of the former Public Library on the Prince’s Canal in the Jordaan district. Hip local architect and designer Marcel Wanders has filled every corner to reflect a modern view of Dutch history and local culture from the video art on the walls, to the books on the shelves. It even boasts a studio for up-and-coming artists. And if you want to feel like a local, jump on one of the hotel bikes to get around. Worth booking now for the re-opening of the Rijksmuseum in 2013. Prices start at £255 for a night at the Andaz, Amsterdam, andaz. hyatt.com
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CELEBRATE THE BEST OF BRITISH AT COOKBOOK CAFE
Cookbook Cafe offers upscale market table fare that champions British seasonal and sustainable ingredients in an interactive culinary experience. The new weekday ‘50 Mile’ lunch menu offers a selection of dishes created from ingredients sourced within a stone’s throw from the hotel. Londoners flock to the restaurant at the weekend to enjoy a spectacular brunch. While adults relax with ‘bottomless’ Crémant and Bellinis the children can be entertained with the regular Kids Cook masterclasses – all the ingredients to guarantee the perfect afternoon for the whole family. For more information visit www.cookbookcafe.co.uk
Do you live an InterContinental life? Cookbook Cafe is a Sustainable Restaurant Association ‘Two-Star Sustainability Champion’ Please call us on +44 (0) 20 7409 3131 Or visit us on www.london.intercontinental.com
In over 170 locations across the globe including HONG KONG • LONDON • NEW YORK • PARIS
IC PL_CBC Amuse Ad_AW.indd 1
18/06/2012 15:33
SHAKESPEARE COUNTRY For the home of undying love and serious graffiti, Verona is unexpectedly saucy discovers Stephanie Hirschmiller
You might equate Verona with Shakespeare and balconies but the bard’s all but lost the battle for this Italian city to Italian lingerie company Calzedonia. Not only does it house the Calza HQ, a massive glass edifice that puts Burberry’s Horseferry House to shame, and more Intimissimi stores than you can shake a thong at, but company owner and founder, Dr Sandro Veronese even sponsors the city’s Arena di Verona, the Roman Amphitheatre in the rather aptly named Piazza Bra that’s renowned for staging opera and rock concerts from Puccini to Pink Floyd. Of course you’ve already heard of the Missoni, Armani and Bulgari hotels but the Hotel Veronesi La Torre is the Calzedonia-
owned equivalent, situated next door to the HQ – a handy five minutes from the aeroporto (and parking spot for the company jet – Dr V is also a keen pilot) and then another 10 from the centre of town. Built around a central courtyard, one side is a restored 16th-century original and the other three contemporary, but nonetheless sympathetic, pink stone. An outdoor terrace is peopled by beautiful lounge lizards of both sexes – especially if there’s a catwalk show happening next door. And then the 78 rooms are spare and furnished with key pieces from Le Corbusier, Eames, Philippe Starck and B&B Italia. There’s a spa as well, complete with indoor saltwater pool and massive open-air hot tub, in the hotel’s subterranean inner garden.
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But if you’re more about Romeo and Juliet than jacuzzis, head into town to visit the unashamedly romantic, undoubtedly apocryphal Juliet’s House (Casa di Giulietta) on Via Cappello. Enter the tiny interior courtyard and take turns to procure the obligatory snap of you doing your best ‘wherefore art thou Romeo?’ on the balcony above. Said balcony (pictured above left) is actually a 1930s addition to the original 12th-century structure but don’t let that kill your buzz. There’s now a very strict notice detailing the stiff penalty for anyone caught graffiting but it’s a bit late. The tunnel entrance to the courtyard is completely covered in layer upon layer of
messages of undying love. In fact these scrawlings are so famous that artist Marc Quinn created an exhibition in the adjoining Casa a few years ago – leaving out canvasses to be saturated in graffiti and post-it notes and then displaying them as a series called ‘Love Paintings’ – one of which still remains on show alongside Impressionist-style paintings and the (actual) bed from Zeffi relli’s seminal Sixties Romeo and Juliet movie. And if that has inspired you to purchase some sexy lingerie, well, you’re sure to find a boutique practically on the doorstep… hotelveronesilatorre.it/ Rooms from £86
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aMUSE
at home
DO A POLONAISE THE ART OF MIXING
Crave a hint of urban hipness in your pad? But also have a soft spot for ‘50s and ‘60s style? The two can’t be combined, surely? Oh but they can. All thanks to BoConcept’s 2013 collection that blends Mad Men references and contemporary chic, with inspiration from the German Bauhaus; think bright furniture and print rugs, juxtaposed with an industrial metal lamp. BoConcept Collection 2013, at BoConcept stores or online at boconcept.com
Born in Poland, raised in the north of England, Aleksandra Olenska has been working in art and fashion for over 10 years. Having begun as an assistant at Dazed and Confused, she’s since styled, consulted, designed and illustrated for the likes of Peter Jensen, Roksanda Ilincic and Vanessa Bruno. She lives between London and her Parisan apartment by Parc Monceau THE KEY ELEMENTS OF THE PERFECT HOME ARE...
Clean lines and a dash of decadence. These create elegant interiors relevant to a client’s personality and lifestyle. It’s not about living in a museum, or buying into a look, but mixing things up and re-curating an individual’s objects. MY INTERIORS TIPS FOR THE
WORDS: POLLY GLASS
SEASON ARE...
KELLY’S KITCHEN
Need to gut your kitchen? Want to make it awesome? You’ll be delighted to hear that mistress of chic elegance Kelly Hoppen has teamed up with Smallbone of Devizes to create an amazing contemporary kitchen. Smallbone Kelly Hoppen Collection, kitchen prices start from £30,000, available in Smallbone showrooms, smallbone. co.uk
wardrobe, textured wallpaper, plenty of brass canisters and accessories, sheepskin rugs, hand-embroidered tablecloths and zig-zag metallic Missoni cushions. I TRAVEL TOO MUCH TO KEEP HOUSEPLANTS ALIVE...
...but love to fill my oversized metallic vessel with a selection of huge jungle leaves, inspired by Evelyn Waugh’s A Handful of Dust. I take every opportunity to buy beautiful sensual blooms – the bigger the better. People shouldn’t be afraid of playing with proportions – collections of tiny miniatures can define an area in a large space, while an oversized sculpture or photograph can provide a focal point to a bijou flat.
A dash of happy opulence. We are seeing a return to ornamented textures with gold embroideries, hand-painted walls and sumptuous, luxurious colours and textiles - perhaps as a way of personalising the strict minimalist lines of recent recession years. I plan to source statement chandeliers in Murano glass, oversized mirrors and De Gournay wallpaper.
I BELIEVE PEOPLE SHOULD
I AM CONSTANTLY DRAWN BACK TO
INVEST IN WELL-CRAFTED
THE 1930S...
PIECES THAT WILL STAND THE
With those clean deco lines and masculine affluence, and my apartment has something of the 1930s explorer visiting the 1970s about it – original dark-stained oak parquet, a mirrored art deco
TEST OF TIME...
...and may become part of collections for generations to come, and also not be afraid to commission pieces. olenska.com
HOUSE BEAUTIFUL
Homes that resemble works of art – fabulous, individual, immaculately designed yet effortless-looking works of art are much to be envied, even if our own place is a tad shy of the mark. Whether you’re looking for inspiration, or just feeling nosey, dive into this selection of snapshots of the most appealing, art-driven homes out there. Domestic Art: Curated Interiors, £50, available at Assouline boutiques worldwide and through assouline.com
AND NOW FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT....
We’re not sure if we love these or feel slightly intimidated by them. Inspired by tribal masks, Haitian voodoo outfits and woodland animals, Jane Oliver’s colourful cushions may take you aback, but they are fun and would make great presents. Quirky, bonkers, ingenious, silly... you decide. Jane Oliver cushions, £22-£45, available online at janeoliver.co.uk
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interiors
‘I
live in a 16th-century mews house, with my husband Dan, a professional tennis player, and our two boys Jake (two and a half ) and Charlie (three months) tucked away on a quiet road in Knightsbridge. Despite being in central London, it feels very peaceful and I love that I can walk to work. The property has a lot of character but had been newly made over. It gave me a blank canvas but a solid foundation to create my own interiors from scratch. I had just had my first baby so I had little time but really enjoyed the freedom of designing my own London home. I wanted a New Hamptons feel and selected soft and tranquil colours inspired by water and sand, to create a relaxed haven for my family. It also has a lift. There is not much of a view but I filled the courtyard with flowers and shrubbery that always makes the space outside feel fresh and vibrant. I love collecting interesting objects from my travels (I’ve driven a dog sled to the North Pole and crossed the Sahara on horseback, so my pictures are definitely not the average pool snaps) and displaying family photographs which always provide a talking point. I like to combine understated British luxury and elegance, such as sumptuous cashmere throws, with influences from my travels and my time living abroad like hand-embroidered Chinese cushions or ancient statues of Cambodian monks. In the living room on the ground floor, I chose soft velvets and linens for
A MAGICAL
MEWS
Interior designer Katharine Pooley has created splashy pads for Camilla Fayed and McLaren’s Ron Dennis, but when it comes to her own house, it’s all about peace and quiet the upholstery in beautiful deep blue, cream and off white, to create a fresh, coastal feel. I combined fabrics from Donghia, Turnell & Gigon and Tissus d’Hélène and with some antiques that I have collected over the years to add depth to the space, such as a round side table with antique mirror top and a beautiful crystal lamp. I designed the side tables on both sides of the sofa and sitting on top of these are scalloped lamps from Nicky Haslam. The adjacent dining area has a large off-white lacquer table and very comfortable upholstered chairs designed by me to fit the space perfectly. The off-white textured fabric on the
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JUMBO PARCHMENT DRUM SHADE LIGHT IN NICKEL, £2,160, CHARLES EDWARDS 575 & 582 KING’S RD, CHARLESEDWARDS.COM
GET THE LOOK… TWIST FABRIC, £132 PER METRE, DONGHIA DONGHIA.COM VARIOUS PRODUCTS, ALFIE’S ANTIQUES MARKET, 13-25 CHURCH ST, PRICES VARY ALFIESANTIQUES.COM
LANA CLUB CHAIR, FROM €3500, DONGHIA DONGHIA.COM DARK ROCK CRYSTAL BALL TABLE LAMP, £1,620, CHARLES EDWARDS 575 & 582 KING’S RD, CHARLESEDWARDS.COM
back of the chairs is from Robert Spurway and the pendant light is from Charles Edwards. The incredibly atmospheric painting on a metal base is called Sea Scape by an artist called Stiliana. In contrast to the airy, refreshing feel on the ground floor, I wanted a warm and cosy feel in the basement and used muted colours and an over-scaled L-shaped sofa upholstered in pewter velvet from Turnell & Gigon, creating a comfortable sophisticated area to entertain in. The card table with a reversible shagreen and felt top is incredibly versatile and a real statement piece. In my bedroom, I chose a colour palette of off-whites, aqua and duck-egg blue to create a serene atmosphere – a retreat at the end of each day. I chose large antique bedside tables as I love to have family photographs close by and I also couldn’t live without a silver tray with a glass and a carafe of water and my alarm clock by my side. I hate the thought of using a mobile phone alarm, the bedroom is a sanctuary away from technology. katharinepooley.com
BED LINEN FROM L&B LONDON, PRICES FROM £45 (PILLOWCASE) OR FROM £250 (SUPER KING DUVET COVER) 6/7 MOTCOMB STREET, LBLONDON.COM
ROUND PARQUET TABLE, £4,234 PLUS VAT TATIANA TAFUR, TATIANATAFUR.COM
ALASTAIR, £118 PER METRE, DONGHIA donghia.com AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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food news
by LYDIA SLATER
APickTASTE OF JPG up a new, limited edition Jean
Paul Gaultier creation for absolutely nothing. As Creative Director for Diet Coke, the iconoclastic designer has already produced two sought-after versions, Day (nautical stripes) and Night (Madonna-style corset) which will be available as cans this month. The new ‘Tattoo’ bottle showcases JPG’s passion for body art and is available free when you buy two bottles of regular Diet Coke in Boots from 17 October.
GREEN TEA?
Prefer your tea black or white? Or Pantone 569? Bring a splash of artistic colour to the kitchen table with Whitbread Wilkinson’s new Pantone teapot (£45), milk jug (£15) and sugar pot (£20) or the Pantone Espresso gift set (£45), w2products.com
EATS SHOOTS AND SWEDE
You may never cook from it, but you can’t afford not to own it. Fäviken may be more of an exquisite art tome than practical cook book but it is this year’s must-have, featuring recipes from Fäviken Magasinet, the real restaurant at the end of the universe – well, a remote farm in Northern Sweden, at any rate. Split into four sections (Meat, Fish, Dairy and Plants) head chef Magnus Nilsson offers poetic-sounding recipes like ‘vegetables cooked with autumn leaves’ and ‘raw blueshell mussel with wild pea pie’. Fäviken is published by Phaidon, £35.
CUISINE ART
Make like a Michelin-starred chef with the new Electrolux Grand Cuisine, which brings professional techniques like ‘sous-vide’ to the domestic kitchen. The system features a combination oven, blast chiller, induction zone (with ‘pot detection technology’), vacuum sealer, sear hob and personally tailored stove – but Gordon Ramsay is not included. From £1,500, grandcuisine.com
SWEET DREAMS
Champagne in bed is always a sensory experience. Now it’s an intellectual one too, with Ruinart’s Interpretation Gift Box. It contains eight vials of the aromas that contribute to its Rosé champagne, including guava, raspberry and garden mint (£89, from Selfridges). And if you have the cash to splash, Browns Hotel is offering a new Ruinart Rosé Interpretation Breakfast In Bed – a deluxe stay for two, the gift box, a bottle of the champagne and breakfast specially created to complement it, from £495. gifts.skchase.com/browns AMUSEMAGAZINE.CO.UK |
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restaurant news by LYDIA SLATER
You’ll be seeing double at Soho’s arty Graphic Bar – and not just because it features the world’s largest gin collection (over 180 different types). To celebrate its new installation designed by innovative 3D artist Jim Sharp, guests are being offered 3D menus, 3D glasses and 4D cocktails, (or punch served in a paint tin). Graphic, 4 Golden Square, London, W1F 9HT, 020 7287 9241, graphicbar.com
THE ART OF COOKING
GAME FOR ART Missing the Games? After a solid summer of sport, London’s top restaurants are doing their bit to redress the cultural balance in favour of the arts. The Mandeville Hotel is launching a series of changing art exhibitions within its Reform Social and Grill, celebrating the best of British art and kicking off with a work by Aquatic Centre architect Dame Zaha Hadid. The Mandeville Hotel, Mandeville Place, London W1U 2BE 0207 224 1624, reformsocialgrill.co.uk High art meets haute cuisine at Koffman’s in the Berkeley Hotel, where London Art Studies is expanding minds and waistlines. The brainchild of Kate Gordon, former CNN Global Arts Producer and Sotheby’s Head of Public Programmes, LAS offers lively art lectures, plus a bespoke lunch from Pierre Koffman, one of France’s greatest chefs. From 9.45am-2.30pm, £175 including lunch, londonartstudies.com
Fortunately for foodies, the best game in London is still going strong. Top venues include: Brompton Brasserie: roast grouse with all the trimmings, plus a Monday night ‘Grill Club’ where you can watch demonstrations of game butchery and preparation before sampling the results. The Cinnamon Club: slowbraised venison cheeks, tandoori breast of grouse with wild mushroom pickle and Rajasthani-spiced partridge and corn pie with curried pears are on its £60 tasting menu (till 27 October). Corrigan’s Mayfair: the game specialists (even the lampshades are fringed with wild duck feathers) will be dishing up everything from red deer, hare and ptarmigan to grouse with blackberries...
THE BROMPTON BAR AND GRILL (BB&G) 243 Brompton Road London SW3 2EP bromptonbarandgrill.com CINNAMON CLUB The Old Westminster Library 30 Great Smith Street, SW1P 3BU cinammonclub.com CORRIGAN’S MAYFAIR 28 Upper Grosvenor Street London W1K 7EH corrigansmayfair.com
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CECIL BEATON THEATRE OF WAR
A MAJOR EXHIBITION OF CECIL BEATON’S WARTIME PHOTOGRAPHY 1939–45 6 SEPTEMBER 2012 – 1 JANUARY 2013
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LAMBETH NORTH, WATERLOO, ELEPHANT AND CASTLE
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CARAMELISED CLEMENTINES & CREAM Getting caramel cooked to the perfect colour continues with my art theme – being as aware of different shades as any painter needs to be. • 6 clementines • 6 heaped tbsp of icing sugar • 75g butter • a splash of brandy • 2 oranges, juiced • 300ml (a small pot) of double cream
TH E
FIFTEENMINUTE
MEAL
BRAISED CHICORY & PANCETTA serves four Loosely assembling the chicory leaves and draping over the pancetta makes me feel engaged with my work, as a painter would as they sweep a brush over the paper, constantly watching and adjusting to get the right effect. • 4 heads of chicory - red or white • 1 orange, zested and juiced • a few sprigs of thyme • 1 tsp caster sugar • 1 clove garlic • salt & pepper • olive oil • 12 slices pancetta 1 Pre-heat the oven to 180C. 2 Cut each chicory in half lengthways. Carefully angle your knife to cut away the root, but keep enough so that the leaves will hold together. Peel and slice your garlic clove very thinly. 3 Heat a saucepan with a glug of olive oil. Once the pan is nice and hot, put the chicory in, cut-side down, and let it cook for about three minutes. When the chicory has begun to caramelise, transfer to a baking tray, now with the charred-side up, and sprinkle
Two courses in a quarter of an hour? No problem for superchef Florence Knight over the orange juice, zest, thyme, garlic, salt and pepper. Don’t be too heavyhanded with the salt as the pancetta is salty too. Cover the tray with tin foil, which will allow the chicory to sweat and soften, and bake for about five minutes. Remove the foil, scatter with the sugar and loosely drape the pancetta over the top of the chicory. 4 Turn the oven up to 200C and put the tray back in the oven for a further five minutes. The pancetta will curl up – if it looks a little sad put it under the grill for a second to crisp the pancetta further.
1 Peel and pull the clementines into their segments, getting rid of as much of the pith as possible. 2 Put a large saucepan on the heat and pour in the icing sugar. As the sugar starts to melt, quickly start patting the lumps out with a spatula. Lower the heat if you’re nervous that it is cooking too quickly. 3 Once the sugar is a deep terracotta shade, add the segments and the butter and taking it off the hob, carefully swill it, but don’t stir! 4 As it looks like it’s splitting, add the brandy and the orange juice and keep swilling the pan around to bring everything together. 5 Put the pan back on the heat for less than a minute. Spoon the clementine segments into a bowl or goblet and serve with cream to pour over.
VICTORIA MOORE’S TOP PICKS
WITH THE BRAISED CHICORY & PANCETTA Principe Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2011 Italy (12.5%, Laithwaite’s Wine, £8.99) Like many Italian whites this has a savoury edge that marries well with the bitterness of the chicory.
WITH THE CARAMELISED CLEMENTINES AND CREAM Santa Teresa Rhum Orange, Venezuela (50cl; Harrods, Selfridges £26.99) Venezuelan rum and Valencian orange peel put together to make a glorious liqueur. Very Christmassy too. Serve neat or over ice.
Victoria Moore, wine columnist for The Telegraph, is the Louis Roederer International Wine Writer of the Year
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THIS MONTH’S –– MUSE ––
n’s hotel: e left: Brow ’s From abov id Hockney av D ; po Lu Bocca di ’ from the sh la Sp r ge ‘A Big on Tate’s collecti
ht: From top rig y agur Solange Az shop; Partridge’s Donovan’s at piece Brown’s; a e from Solang rtridge Azagury Pa
Vanessa Bruno Which three shops can’t you resist in the capital? Solange Azagury Partridge on Old Bond Street, Mairead Lewin Vintage in Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill and Daunt Books on Marylebone High Street. What was the last luxury you treated yourself to? A soul harmony massage at the spa at Brown’s. rk What was the last thing that made you Pa en re G laugh or cry? Last time I laughed was when my 16-year-old daughter told me that she had nothing to wear. What’s your life philosophy? Be good to yourself. What advice would you give to your s Left: the Tank 16-year-old self? ern; at Tate Mod l by below: shaw Don’t mess around, girl!!!!! at Aisha Khalid Who would play you in the film of Frieze your life? A young Lauren Hutton. Who would you most like to be stuck on a rush hour tube train with? Viggo Mortensen. Who do you follow on Twitter? Valerie Trierweiler, Kate Bosworth and Choupette, Karl Lagerfeld’s cat are my main ones. vanessabruno.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: ROB FAHEY; CORVI-MORA@LONDON AND SHARJAH ART MUSEUM
Where do you go to think? To one of London’s brilliant galleries. I’m looking forward to visiting White Cube Bermondsey. Where do you go to gorge? I go to Bocca di Lupo and ask to sit at the bar - such a fantastic atmosphere and the food is sensational. The tagliata and the octopus in particular. Where do you go to drink? I love the Donovan Bar at Brown’s hotel. It’s just down the road from my boutique which is perfect as my time in London centres around it. Where do you go to party? I tend to stick to dinners for work or with friends, mixing business with pleasure. I love the Wolseley - the private room is a secret I discovered last year. Where do you go to feast your eyes? Frieze Art Fair. I try to make sure nothing clashes in my diary and I always pay a visit to the Tate. Where do you go to feast your soul? Green Park on a beautiful day. What’s your favourite London hotel? Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair. Who’s your favourite artist in a London gallery? The Welsh conceptual artist Sean Edwards.
The fashion designer and former model hides out in the Wolseley and browses in Daunt Books
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