Final editorials for UN_FOLD

UN_FOLD AMY JACKSON FINAL EDITORIALS - THE POWER OF PRINT (IN HOUSE STYLE) - THE POWER OF PRINT (BREAKING HOUSE STYLE) - A TOOL FOR CHANGE - TALKING TYPE

THE POWER OF PRINT CAN INDEPENDENT PRINT MAGAZINES THRIVE IN A DIGITAL WORLD?

It’s been said that in order for a print magazine to survive, it has to last at least five issues. This makes the magazine industry seem a somewhat risky game, yet if you look at any newsstand, the amount of titles has never been greater.

We’re currently seeing a rise in Niche, independent magazines that are led by ideas, focused on design and unlike more established magazines, funded by readers rather than advertisements.

There’s a certain appeal in owning, and even creating these types of magazines, but what are the factors that ensure independent magazines survive in a world obsessed with the digital?

While most independent magazines favour print as their medium of choice, digital media is a major part of our world, and magazines are using social media and website content as a cost-free way to market themselves. Many independent magazines are even introducing a digital version of their publication, in the hope that it will compliment sales by targeting those who like to view content on the go. In some aspects, magazines are becoming insignificant as people can access similar content through online blogs. Blogs are becoming increasingly more popular due to their ability to give ordinary people a fashion presence, allowing them to share their opinions or showcase their own creative work. Popular fashion blogger Garance Dore originally created her blog to showcase her own illustrations, and commented that the best thing about having an online presence is how easy it is to receive feedback, which she claims print is lacking.

Although viewing creative content digitally is undeniably the easier choice, we’re still pining over copies of well designed, good quality print magazines.

Think about the last time you read a physical magazine. Think about the feel of the paper, the way the pages looked, the smell of freshly printed ink. Reading a printed magazine can be a sensory experience, whilst viewing the same editorial on an iPad screen feels less special, less honest and less real.

As lovable as print magazines may be, however, they’re not always the most profitable route to go down. Many creators of magazines use publishing as a creative hobby rather than a way to pay the bills, and end up left without any profit after printing costs. Instead they favour the luxury and collectable feel of a print publication you can hold in your hands and keep forever, rather than throw away the next day, and take pride in showcasing upcoming creative talent and unique content. With more traditional magazines like Vogue, advertisements make up the majority of content and bring in all the profit, with the advertising rate in Vogue averaging around £30,000. Independent magazines shy away from advertising, and limit the number of ad’s they include, if any. By doing this they’re sabotaging their chance to make money through their reluctance to sacrifice the aesthetics and flow of the magazine.

This is both a positive and a negative thing, as although independent magazines use lack of advertisements as a way to stand out from more mainstream titles, magazines need profit in order to keep up and running, and reach that five issue milestone.

READING A PRINTED MAGAZINE CAN BE A

SENSORY EXPERIENCE

As nice as it would be to have an ad-free print-only magazine, it’s unrealistic to think that it could be successful without the help of some form of digital media, and magazines need platforms like instagram to attract new readers and help create a brand for themselves. As long as print media and digital media embrace one another, there’s hope that independent print magazines can succeed, and the two can live happily ever after in this constantly changing world.

- Amy Jackson

T H E It’s been said that in order for a print magazine to survive, it has to last at least five issues.

This makes the magazine industry seem a somewhat risky game, yet if you look at any newsstand, the amount of titles has never been greater.

We’re currently seeing a rise in Niche, independent magazines that are led by ideas, focused on design and unlike more established magazines, funded by readers rather than advertisements.

There’s a certain appeal in owning, and even creating these types of magazines, but what are the factors that ensure independent magazines survive in a world obsessed with the digital?

P P

O W E R O F

R I N T

While most independent magazines favour print as their medium of choice, digital media is a major part of our world, and magazines are using social media and website content as a cost-free way to market themselves.

Many independent magazines are even introducing a digital version of their publication, in the hope that it will compliment sales by targeting those who like to view content on the go.

In some aspects, magazines are becoming insignificant as people can access similar content through online blogs. Blogs are becoming increasingly more popular due to their ability to give ordinary people a fashion presence, allowing them to share their opinions or showcase their own creative work.

Popular fashion blogger Garance Dore originally created her blog to showcase her own illustrations, and commented that the best thing about having an online presence is how easy it is to receive feedback, which she claims print is lacking.

Although viewing creative content digitally is undeniably the easier choice, we’re still pining over copies of well designed, good quality print magazines.

Think about the last time you read a physical magazine. Think about the feel of the paper, the way the pages looked, the smell of freshly printed ink.

Reading a printed magazine can be a sensory experience, whilst viewing the same editorial on an iPad screen feels less special, less honest and less real.

As lovable as print magazines may be, however, they’re not always the most profitable route to go down. Many creators of magazines use publishing as a creative hobby rather than a way to pay the bills, and end up left without any profit after printing costs. Instead they favour the luxury and collectable feel of a print publication you can hold in your hands and keep forever, rather than throw away the next day, and take pride in showcasing upcoming creative talent and unique content. With more traditional magazines like Vogue, advertisements make up the majority of content and bring in all the profit, with the advertising rate in Vogue averaging around £30,000.

Independent magazines shy away from advertising, and limit the number of ad’s they include, if any. By doing this they’re sabotaging their chance to make money through their reluctance to sacrifice the aesthetics and flow of the magazine.

This is both a positive and a negative thing, as although independent magazines use lack of advertisements as a way to stand out from more mainstream titles, magazines need profit in order to keep up and running, and reach that five issue milestone.

As nice as it would be to have an ad-free printonly magazine, it’s unrealistic to think that it could be successful without the help of some form of digital media, and magazines need platforms like instagram to attract new readers and help create a brand for themselves.

As long as print media and digital media embrace one another, there’s hope that independent print magazines can succeed, and the two can live happily ever after in this constantly changing world.

- Amy Jackson

READING A PRINTED MAGAZINE CAN BE A

SENSORY EXPERIENCE

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When you think of social media, what comes to mind? There’s increasingly more and more people that think of social media as ‘toxic’ to society and a tool used to brainwash our minds. Take Australian model Essena O’Neil, who took the internet by storm this year with her ‘social media meltdown’; deleting most of her Instagram content and replacing captions of selfies with comments she felt represented the situation in a more honest light. Social media can definitely be unhealthy in some aspects, but are we focusing too much on the negatives, and ignoring the individuals who are using social media as a tool for change?

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Fifteen year old Jazz Jennings uses Instagram just like any other teenage girl, the difference is she was born male. Jennings has openly discussed issues surrounding her gender identity since the age of six, and remains one of the youngest trans-gender advocates today. With over 200 thousand followers on Instagram, and over 190 thousand youtube subscribers, Jazz is reaching out to young people around the world who wouldn’t usually be exposed to the issue of transgenderism. By discussing what it means to be a trans teen, Jazz Jennings is increasing the visibility of the transgender community in a big way, enlightening more people and hopefully contributing towards a society more aware and accepting of gender issues. Her Instagram presence is also allowing more young people battling issues with their own gender to feel that there’s a community of people just like them, and inspiring others to share their own stories.

Body confidence is a huge issue when it comes to social media. With the amount of celebrities and models posting heavily edited photographs of themselves, and the ease of filters to rid yourself of imperfections, there’s no question that Instagram can be a sure fire self esteem killer. Look around a bit, though, and you’ll find that more and more individuals are using social media to promote body diversity. Nadia Aboulhosn, for instance, is a blogger, designer and model who’s using her Instagram profile to contribute towards body confidence and self-appreciation. Nadia’s feed consists of selfies and outfit posts flaunting her size 16 figure, and she pays no attention to ‘rules’ that restrict how people should dress in accordance with their size. Nadia has stated that she doesn’t like to use the term ‘plus sized’ as she feels it separates people, wanting girls of all sizes to feel that it’s okay to be the way you are, and that no size is better than another.

It’s not just gender issues and body image diversity that’s being voiced over social media; race issues are being brought to attention, with teen hunger games actress Amanda Stenberg speaking out about cultural appropriation. Sternberg is using her high status to shine a light on issues that aren’t often brought to attention. Her youtube video, ‘Don’t Cash Crop On My Cornrows’ highlights the issues surrounding how white mainstream celebrities and musicians use the history of black hairstyles and hip hop in a stylised way, such as wearing their hair in cornrows or braids, without respecting the culture and understanding the background.

Stenberg raises the question “what would America be like if we loved black people as much as we love black culture?” and has been praised for her ability to effectively explain cultural appropriation in just under five minutes.

In the age of social media and technology, it’s safe to say that lots of young women are utilising social media channels as a way to reach the masses, and in doing so, becoming ambassadors of social change and the equality movement. Instead of endorsing the latest plumping lipgloss or weight loss juice, these individuals are making the most of their high following by promoting empowerment and creating a more socially aware generation overall.

- Amy Jackson

TALKING TYPE Si Scott is one of the UK’s most innovative graphic designers. His portfolio consists of an eclectic range of illustration, graphics and type, and he’s produced worked for some big names in the fashion industry. We chatted to Si about his influences, his penchant for hand rendered design, and what’s next for his career.

What are your influences? Does music or art influence you?

It’s more music really. I first got heavily into music when I was 12 or 13 and it was bands like the Pixies. Their designer was Vaughan Oliver and I remember reading something from him about the way his whole philosophy of design was that he wanted to create things that people would want to hang on the wall; art I guess. At the time I didn’t know what graphic design was, but to me graphic design was album covers. I didn’t know about packaging design and things like that, in school we didn’t learn about design like kids do nowadays, so music helped introduce me to it.

Some of your work seems to have a Japanese style, would you say that Japanese culture and art is one of your influences?

When I was at college I worked in the shop Maharishi Clothing and they kind of nick a lot of Japanese looking design.

Working there might have subconsciously influenced me by seeping into my work. I love Japanese drawings of Geisha’s, and when I was in Japan I noticed how they’ve really kept hold of their culture, while here I feel we haven’t really got a British culture anymore.

I really like the fact you do everything by hand, but why haven’t you developed into a software? Do you feel that designing by hand is a dying art?

It’s more of just a personal thing for me. I haven’t got the patience to learn how to do things with a computer. If theres a way of making something that might take me a bit longer than learning on the computer I’ll still do it that way cause I just prefer it. I’ve never been a massive fan of computers; we definitely didn’t have one in my house as a kid, but I guess most students now, everyone has laptops, whereas I just bought my first laptop about a month ago. I feel like with this generation theres no patience anymore as everything so accessible straight away, and that’s not a bad thing I guess, it’s just the way it is.

Can you describe your process in making artwork.

It all depends what it is. Sometimes it’s really quick and what I generally find is, if something happens really quickly I end up liking the work more, whereas It feels too forced if i spend too much time on it. When I was at college we’d get months to work on a project and I think if I had to spend so long on a project now I’d get bored senseless. I sometimes get bored of my own work because I’ve seen it so many times.

Do you collaborate?

Not often but I have done in the past. I don’t really like doing work with another illustrator, if I collaborate I like to work with people who do totally different things to me, or theres no real point. If I give someone a piece of my work and they go off and make something I don’t understand, that’s cool.

What are you currently working on?

I’ve just worked on a re-brand for a big food company in London and I’ve done something for a TV show which was nice. It’s obviously good to earn money on these type of projects but money doesn’t drive me. I’ve seen so many people whose work has become shit because they’ve got too focused on earning money to pay the bills, but I don’t want to be like that; I’d rather just be happy.

As fashion communicators we know you’ve worked with a lot of big fashion brands. What has been your favourite fashion project?

Matthew Williamson, purely for the fact he was so cool to work with and there was no drama. He’s such a big fashion designer and he was so easy to work with, I showed him my drawings and he was just like “yeah, cool, let’s do it”.

Is there a fashion company that has asked to work with you but you’ve said no for any reason?

I can’t really remember on the top of my head, but there probably has been. One thing you’ll notice if you become freelance, you’ll get used to the fact that 50 percent of work that comes in doesn’t happen. You’ll get an email saying there’s a possible project and it comes to nothing, and at first you wonder if there’s something you did wrong, but it’s just the way it is. There’s so many people involved in fashion advertising and people are always changing their minds.

So, we hear you’re entering into Tattooing, Why? And why in Spain?

It’s just something new really. My work gets used for tattoos a lot and I get asked a lot to design them. A lot of the time people send me photos of peoples tattoos they got of my work, and they’ll email me saying “this is how much I like your work”, and I’ll think obviously you don’t, because that’s fucking shocking! You think surely if someones going to get a tattoo, they should find someone that can do it properly. It’s a really hard industry to get into because they treat it like a secret club, but Pedro, who I’m going to work with in Spain, knows that it’s not like that. There’s a lot of tattoo artists that just copy a picture someone takes in to them. Whereas I want to be the type of tattooist that if someone brings in a design, I’ll re-draw it in a certain style so they get a unique tattoo, and that’s how Pedro works too. A lot of tattooists just pick an area of tattooing such as Japanese or Korean or Type, which is just like a copy of a copy of a copy. If I’m going to be a tattooist I want to do it the same way i do design.