TREND JOURNAL 2018/2019 JACKETS
FASH 503 FALL 2018 Professor Doris Treptow-Kovacs
C O N T E N T
BELTED JACKETS History Runway Street Style Shop It PLAID JACKETS History Runway Street Style Shop It PUFFER JACKETS History Runway Street Style Shop It ANIMAL PRINT JACKETS History Runway Street Style Shop It SOURCES
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C O N T E N T
THE POWER SUIT History Runway Street Style Shop It SHOULDER PADS History Runway Street Style Shop It SOURCES
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1. BELTED JACKETS
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H I S T O R Y
We can trace back belted coats to the early 20th century. It is known worldwide as the ‘trench coat’. Its name comes from the era of WWI when the soldiers fought on trenches and would use coats to protect the uniform from getting dirty with mud. Its popularity among women rose after Audrey Hepburn was seen in one in the iconic rain scene in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The coat was designed by Burberry which is a co-designer of the orinigal trench coat.
BRIGITTE BARDOT
JACKIE KENNEDY
TWIGGY
R U N W A Y
Designers like Fendi, Miu Miu, and Tibi showcased their version of the belted jacket on their 2018 Autum/Winter runway shows back in February.
FENDI A/W 2018
MIU MIU A/W 2018
TIBI A/W 2018
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S T R E E T S T Y L E
Influencers have been spotted during Spring/Summer Faashion Weeks wearing the belted jackets and coats
The trend is available in a wide range of stores. From luxury e-department store like Net-A-Porter, to premium department store like Bloomingdales offer belted jackets. Even low-cost stores, like Zara, have their own version.
S H O P I T
CHLOE AVAILABLE AT NET-A-PORTER
BLOOMINGDALES
It is clear that that the trend is on the maturity level of the fashion cycle bell curve. It could also be infered that the trend fall into the macro-trend category. Belted trench coats have been in style for over 10 years. ZARA
2. PLAID JACKETS
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H I S T O R Y
In fashion, we can trace back the popularity (or the birth) of plaid to the medieval era where ‘tartan’ became popular. Tartan is a plaid print in the colors of red blue and green. It could also be the birth of what is known as a fashion trend. But, it was not until the 1920s when Burberry debuted their iconic plaid print that the trend made a significant impact in the world of fashion. The 70s was the decade where plaid was at its peak in terms of popularity; tv shows began to showcase the trend and subsequently the public imitated the style.
H I S T O R Y
The next big comeback can be said to have been the 1990s with the movie hit Clueless becoming an epidemic. Millions of girls wanted the plaid jacket and skirt that Cher wore. In recent years plaid has remained on the shelfs, but it was not until Fall 2017 that paid blazers made plaid become a trend again. In 2018, the trend is not going anywhere, in fact it is as popular as ever. During the Spring/Summer 2019 runway show presentations, influencers’ and celebrities’ street style showcased the trend.
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Versace A/W 2018
R U N W A Y
Lacoste A/W 2018
Plaid took over many of the top designer’s Autumn/ Winter 2018 runway shows. The trend was seeing in its majority on jackets, coats, and matching sets.
Robert Verino A/W 2018
Beatrice B A/W 2018
S T R E E T S T Y L E
MISSONI
S H O P
Plaid is considered a macrotrend. It’s a trend that is always present, but has peaks through the years. We are currently experiencing a peak in the popularity of plaid jackets.
I T NORDSTROM
Just like the belted jacket trend, the plaid jackets are in the maturity level of the trend cycle curve. We can find plaid jackets in several stores, from deisgner boutiques to fast-fashion stores.
FOREVER 21
3. PUFFER JACKETS
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H I S T O R Y
The first appearance of the puffer jacket or as many like to call it the marshmallow jacket, can be traced back to the 1930s. According to an article published by Another Mag, it is Eddie Bauer, the official creator of this jacket style. It was in 1936 when Bauer presented the public with The Skyliner – the original name of the style we now know as puffer jacket. This jacket was made for men. The same article mentions that Bauer created the jacket after he had a near-death experience due to hypothermia. The characteristics of the coat are the materials; the puffer jackets are constructed with encased down feathers inserted in quilted fabric.
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H I S T O R Y
Through time many designers have adopted the style and made it their own. In 1938 the magazine Harper’s Bazaar published an image of a model wearing elegantly the puffer jacket designed by Charles James. Because of the construction of the coat, James claimed that it would have no impact on fashion. In the 70s the coat became a popular style. And in the 80s, one of the biggest fashion houses known for producing this iconic Winter style, Moncler, rose to fame.
MONCLER, MILAN 80s
3.1 Phillip Lim A/W 2018
Versace A/W 2018
R U N W A Y CHANEL A/W 2018
Christian Cowan A/W 2018
Kate Spade NY A/W 2018
S T R E E T S T Y L E
The puffer jacket has made little impact on the streets so far. While big designers have been including the trend on the runway since 2016,influencers and celebs are just starting to be seen on a grander scale with puffer jackets.
NEIMAN MARCUS
S H O P
The Puffer jacket, just like the previous jacket trends,is available in all prince level. You have Stella McCartney puffer bomber jacket available at Neiman Marcus, you have SAM Available at Bloomingdales, and Zara’s version of the puffer jacket as well.
I T BLOOMINGDALES
ZARA
In contrary to the previous two brands, the puffer jacket falls in the growth section of the bell curve rather than the maturity level. While the puffer jacket is a staple and a classic style for the winter season, it has yet to peak in popularity in the fashion world. Meaning, it is still making its way up to become a trend.
4. ANIMAL PRINT JACKETS
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H I S T O R Y
Animal print can be considered a macrotrend. It has been among us for many years and can be traced back to the cavemen era. Animal were killed for food and to protect themselves from the cold they would wear the animal skin as capes. In fashion, we can trace back the animal print to the 18th century were elite men and women of society wore the print. Leopard fur coats made their debut in the early 20th century; women in the 1920s were all about fur coats. Every decade the fur coats made an impact and peaked it popularity.
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H I S T O R Y
Animal print, and specifically animal printed fur coats and jackets have always been linked to higher class ranks because of their high price points. Over the decades, celebrities and public personalities have adapted the trend to their own style. In recent years, animal print has been present on the runways, but it is now that the actual trend is shifting. Designers are moving from the classic leopard print to zebra, and python prints.
BURBERRY
BALENCIAGA S/S 2019
R U N W A Y
It looks like animal print is not going anywhere in 2019. Designers like Balenciaga, Elie Saab and Giambattista Balli incorporated the trend in their S/S collections.
GIAMBATTISTA BALLI S/S 2019
22 ELIE SAAB S/S 2019
S T R E E T S T Y L E
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
S H O P I T
AVEC LES FILLES
Like mentioned in the previous sections, animal print is considered a macro-trend. It has been around in fashion for the past 100 years and it seems like fashion can’t live without it. The trend can be found in luxury retailers and designers to fast-fashion stores. There is animal print for everyone. ZARA
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5. THE POWER SUIT
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H I S T O R Y
For years, women wearing suits has been a synonym of power and liberalism. Back in time, women were never seen in pants. Men solemnly wore pants; somehow is associated with strength and masculinity. In the 19th century, Sarah Bernhardt, a French actress, scandalized the world by wearing a custom-made pant-suit. During the same century, women wore costumes that consisted of tailored jackets with skirts to play certain sports like horseback riding. At the beginning of the 20th century, these ‘costumes’ became a regular outfit worn by women. The popularity of the women suit didn’t come until the 1910s when Coco Chanel designed the first women suit.
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H I S T O R Y
During the 1940s, the women suit was associated with rebellious causes; women wanted to be seen as more powerful and alienate themselves from the image of being only housewives and mothers. In the 1960s, pants became more common for women and designer André Courrèges designed the first slim pant-suit for women. Followed by Yves Saint Laurent, who created in 1966 the first women tuxedo called Le Smoking. During the 1980s, the power suit got an upgrade, and shoulder pads were added. As women entered the ‘man’s world’ they felt the need to play the part and wear suits. In recent years, the work wear suit had become a street style staple. In 2018, the pant-suit is staying at the top of the trend alert list with an upgrade in bold colors and funky patterns.
Celine S/S 2019
Sandro S/S 2019
R U N W A Y ETRO S/S 2019
Alexander McQueen S/S 2019
Valentino S/S 2019
S T R E E T S T Y L E
While the women suit is something that has never left the store shelves, it always morphs into a new version. If you looked closely at the images of the Runway section, the suit is coming in bold ways and traditional as well. Street Style has seen a whole different power suit, were celebrities and influencers are wearing more daring and colorful suits.
KOCHE
S H O P I T TOPSHOP
ZARA
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3. SHOULDER PADS
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H I S T O R Y
Just like the women suit, shoulder pads on jackets are a symbol of women power. The first time’s shoulder pads were seen on clothing was in the 1800s when football players used them for protection. It became a prominent trend among women in the 20th century. During the wars, women were taking men’s jobs and with that came the transformation of their work wardrobe. Women started ditching the skirts and dresses for more manly options. The designer behind this creation is Elsa Schiaparelli. Later, came Dios in 1947 when they introduced their new designs emphasizing on women femininity.
H I S T O R Y
However, the trends peaked in popularity in the 1980s. It not only influenced fashion enthusiasts but the pop culture as well. It is said that the trend became popular thanks to UK Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher. But, in the decade the trend was not only seen on public political figures, but also on films and in the music industry. Since then shoulder pads have been present in numerous runways shows, but have not been widely popular. It is all about to shit because in recent years, designers have been slowly and discreetly introducing the trend again to the public. The latest fashion week for Spring/Summer 2019 collections was filled with bold and big shoulders.
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Balenciaga S/S 2019
Roberto Cavalli S/S 2019
R U N W A Y MSGM S/S 2019
Balmain S/S 2019
Salvatore Ferragamo S/S 2019
S T R E E T S T Y L E
BALENCIAGA
S H O P I T
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S O U R C E S
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S O U R C E S
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S O U R C E S
Bobila, Maria. “The Fall 2018 Runways Want You to Swap Your Cropped Puffer for a Long One.” Fashionista, Fashionista, 13 Feb. 2018, fashionista.com/2018/02/nyfw-fall-2018-trend-puffer-coats. Marshall, Shonagh. “A Brief History of the Puffer Jacket.” AnOther, AnOther Magazine, 9 Aug. 2016, www.anothermag.com/ fashion-beauty/8951/a-brief-history-of-the-puffer-jacket. Mower, Sarah. “Chanel Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show.” Vogue, Vogue, 12 Mar. 2018, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/chanel/slideshow/collection#17. Mower, Sarah. “Versace Fall 2018 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show.” Vogue, Vogue, 12 Mar. 2018, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2018-ready-to-wear/versace/slideshow/collection#41. Park, Marian. “Fashion Week Streets A/W 18/19: Cut & Sew.” WGSN, 18 Apr. 2018, 0-www.wgsn.com.library.scad.edu/content/board_viewer/#/78385/page/2. Sears, Kirsty. “CIFF & Revolver A/W 18/19 – Womenswear.” WGSN, 9 Feb. 2018, 0-www.wgsn.com.library.scad.edu/content/ board_viewer/#/77325/page/1. “| WGSN | Creating Tomorrow.” WGSN | Creating Tomorrow | Trend Forecasting & Analytics, WGSN, www.wgsn.com/library/ results/ids/ “Where to Buy the Exact Puffers Celebrities Are Wearing.” InStyle.com, InStyle.com, www.instyle.com/fashion/clothing/ where-to-buy-puffer-jackets-celebrity.
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S O U R C E S
Bateman, Kristen. “The Evolution of Leopard Print.” Harper’s BAZAAR, Harper’s BAZAAR, 7 Oct. 2017, www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/g5971/leopard-print-style-evolution/?slide=8. LaPlaca, Anna. “The Latest Street Style From Paris Fashion Week.” Who What Wear, Who What Wear, 2 Oct. 2018, www.whowhatwear.com/paris-fashion-week-street-stylespring-2019. Paris, Calin Van. “6 Short Cuts to Try in the Year Ahead.” Vogue, Vogue, 26 May 2017, www.vogue.com/article/best-shorthaircut-ideas-2015. Shade, Colette. “The Trashy, Expensive, Contradictory Reputation of Leopard Print.” Racked, Racked, 7 Mar. 2018, www. racked.com/2018/3/7/17053964/leopard-print-history. “The History of Animal Print, An Exotic Past Revealed.” Greenhouse Fabrics, 23 Aug. 2017, www.greenhousefabrics.com/blog/ history-animal-print-exotic-past-revealed.
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S O U R C E S
“Blake Lively Pulls Off the Trickiest Color Known to Woman.” InStyle.com, www.instyle.com/news/blake-lively-neon-greensuit?utm_source=pinterest.com&utm_medium=social&utm_ campaign=instyle. Mower, Sarah. “Etro Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show.” Vogue, Vogue, 9 Oct. 2018, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/etro. Mower, Sarah. “Valentino Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show.” Vogue, Vogue, 9 Oct. 2018, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/valentino. Mower, Sarah. “Valentino Spring 2019 Ready-to-Wear Fashion Show.” Vogue, Vogue, 9 Oct. 2018, www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/valentino. Sullivan, Kate. “The Fascinating History of Women Wearing Suits.” Allure, Allure, 31 May 2017, www.allure.com/story/ women-suits-history.
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